| How to Remove Saved Places on Google Maps on PC or Mac Posted: 27 May 2018 01:00 AM PDT This wikiHow teaches you how to remove a location you've saved to your places in Google Maps when you're using a computer. - Go to https://maps.google.com in a web browser. If you're not already signed in to your Google account, click Sign In at the top-right corner of the screen to do so now.
- Click the menu. It's at the top-left corner of the page.
- Click . It's in the third set of options. A window will open on the left side of the map.
- Click the tab. It's at the top of the "Your places" window.
- Click the category where the place is saved. You'll find your saved location in Favorites, Want to go, or Starred places.
- Click the location to remove. Maps will zoom in and display related information.
- Click the flag icon. It's under the name of the location. A list of categories will expand—the category where the location is saved has a blue and white check mark.
- Remove the check mark from the category. This removes the location from your saved places.
EditQuick Summary |
| How to Mow a Lawn Posted: 26 May 2018 05:00 PM PDT Many homeowners see mowing the lawn as an unwelcome chore, while others view it as an opportunity to beautify their property. When done properly, mowing supports green, healthy grass, and reduces weeds and bare spots. With a bit of practice, you can even mow eye-pleasing patterns into your lawn! EditReadying Your Mower and Your Lawn - Use the right mower for your lawn. Gas-powered push mowers tend to be the most common choice for the typical suburban home lawn, but you actually have several options:
- Manual reel mowers are powered only by you pushing them, and are an affordable and environmentally-friendly choice for very small, flat lawns.
- Electric push mowers are quieter and cost less to operate than gas models, but they're also heavier and more expensive. Corded models in particular are best suited to small lawns (0.25 acres or less).
- Gas walk-behind mowers come in both push-propelled and self-propelled varieties. Either is suitable for lawns up to about 0.5 acres in size.
- Riding mowers cost more than walk-behind models, but will save you time with most lawns over 0.5 acres in size. They aren't safe for use on steep hillsides, though.
- Keep your mower blades sharp and clear of debris. Dull mower blades cause jagged cuts in your grass blades, which create brown tips and invite grass diseases. If your lawn looks ragged after a mow, it's probably time for a blade sharpening.[1]
- You can expect to need to sharpen them 1-2 times per year.
- You can remove and sharpen the blades yourself with a few tools and some mechanical know-how, or you can search for "lawn mower sharpening near me" to find local pros.
- Even if your blades don't seem to need sharpening, inspect them for damage every 3-4 mows, and brush or rinse away any built-up grass debris on the blades and underside of the mower.
- Set your mowing height based on your grass type(s) and climate. Many people mow their lawns too short in an effort to reduce how often they need to mow. This, however, leads to brown lawns and more weeds. Ideal mowing heights vary based on several factors, but usually fall within the range of .[2]
- Check the fuel and oil levels before starting the mower. It is unsafe to add fuel to a warm mower engine, so give the fuel tank a fill-up before you start mowing. Check the oil level every 2-3 mows as well, and add oil as needed before firing up the engine.[3]
- You'll also need to occasionally change the oil and clear the fuel lines, or have a pro do this routine maintenance for you. Consider giving your mower a tune-up once a year at the beginning of spring.
- Mow your lawn on its schedule, not yours. Some people mow their lawn like clockwork every Saturday afternoon, but it's better to mow based on the height of the grass. Use the "1/3s rule" and don't mow down more than a third of the total height of your grass each mowing.[4]
- So, if you keep your lawn at high, wait until the grass is high before mowing it.
- Check the weather forecast for dry weather as well. Wet grass can clog your mower, make compaction in your yard, and make it too slippery to mow safely.
- It's better to mow in the evening after a dry day. This reduces clumping, lawn damage, and heat stress on the grass (and you). So plan accordingly.[5]
- Clear away lawn debris, pets, and kids before mowing. Walk around your lawn and pick up any branches, rocks, toys, pet waste, or other obstructions that could damage your mower or make a mess. Even more importantly, send your pets and kids inside, or at least to a secure area away from where you'll be mowing.[6]
- Some mowers can eject rocks or other flying debris at dangerous speeds, so it's always best to keep other people and pets out of the area.
- Put on protective eyewear, ear wear, and clothing. Wear safety glasses to protect yourself from flying debris, and ear protection to muffle the loud mower engine. Also put on closed-toe, sturdy footwear and long pants to protect your feet and legs.[7]
- Put on sunscreen and wear a hat, even on cloudy days or if it's early or late in the day.
- Be sure to stay hydrated.
- Take breaks if you're mowing a large lawn, feel overheated, or start to feel tired.
EditCutting Your Grass Efficiently - Mow around the perimeter and any obstacles first. Unless you already have a square or rectangular lawn, your initial goal should be to create a squared-off mowing area. Go around trees or along curved planting beds, then create straight lines and angles in those areas. Turn your remaining lawn into one or several rectangles for easier mowing.[8]
- Mowing around the perimeter first helps you square off the lawn and gives you room to turn as you mow back in forth in rows.
- You may want to go around the perimeter twice in order to create an even wider turning area.
- Mow side-to-side on sloped ground. Take any sloped ground into account when creating your rectangular mowing areas. You should never mow up and down a slope that's anything more than gentle. Instead, go in straight lines that are perpendicular to the slope.[9]
- If you'd have trouble walking up or down the slope on wet grass, then don't mow up or down it even if the grass is dry.
- Manual push-reel mowers are less dangerous than larger and heavier powered models on slopes, but you could still be injured by one if you slip and fall.
- Instead of mowing a slope, try using a string trimmer, or consider planting or placing something other than grass in that area.
- Mow back and forth in straight lines with a slight overlap. In each rectangular area that you've created, start along one side and go in a straight line from end to end. Then turn your mower and mow an adjacent row in the opposite direction. Continue this process until you've mowed the entire section.[10]
- The amount of overlap needed will depend on your mower's setup. Generally speaking, though, you want to place your wheels (on one side) just over the cut line you created with the previous row.
- Turning to go back and forth will be easier with a zero-turn-radius mower. Otherwise, pivot on the rear wheel closest to the next row and readjust as needed to get into position.
- Throw any clippings into the previously-cut row. Finely-cut clippings help to nourish your grass, so leave them scattered thinly throughout your lawn when possible. If you have a side-throwing mower, send the clippings onto the row you just cut. A mulching mower will chop up the grass blades and scatter them for you.[11]
- Don't leave clumps of cut grass sitting on your lawn, though — this is more likely to happen if you have a dull blade or if the grass is damp. Either bag your clippings or use a rake to spread the clumps out.
- If you want to reduce your lawn's thatch, you can use a bag that attaches to your lawnmower to catch the grass clippings. You can add the clippings to your compost pile, use them as mulch, or dispose of them in a curbside trash or composting system.
- Change the direction of your mowing rows regularly. You shouldn't, for instance, mow your square lawn in the same north-south lines every time. If you do, the grass will start to bend over permanently in its row's direction, and you'll wear track marks from your mower's wheels into the grass.[12]
- Instead, consider alternating from north-south to east-west lines with each subsequent mowing session.
- Use your string trimmer and/or edger after you finish mowing. String trimmers or edgers aren't as fast or efficient as mowers, so rely on your mower to cover as much of the lawn as possible. Then use the other tool(s) to get at the remaining grass that the mower couldn't reach.[13]
- However, some people do prefer to trim/edge first, so that the abundant clippings created by doing so can be chopped up and spread out by the mower. This is a viable option, but you'll spend more time trimming and/or edging than necessary, and these methods tend to be harsher on your grass than mowing — e.g., it's easier to cut the grass far too short in spots.
EditCreating Lawn Stripes - Do simple back and forth rows to create basic lawn stripes. The lighter and darker stripes you see on manicured lawns or professional sports fields are created simply by bending the grass in the direction you're mowing it. Grass that bends away from where you're standing looks lighter in color, while grass that bends towards you appears darker.[14]
- Therefore, a traditional back and forth mowing method will create straight lines that alternate between lighter and darker shades (depending on your viewing angle).
- To enhance the striping effect by bending the grass more fully, buy a lawn roller and use it to repeat the pattern you just mowed.
- Create checkerboard stripes by mowing in perpendicular rows. To create a checkerboard-style pattern of alternating light and dark squares of grass, you simply need to mow over the same area twice. First, mow in your standard back and forth lines — for instance, north and south. Then, mow over the same area in east and west lines back and forth. When you're done, you should see the distinctive checkerboard pattern.[15]
- Finish the job by going around the perimeter one more time at the end, in order to clean up any irregularities caused by your turns.
- Take it to the next level with diamond or zig-zag patterns. A diamond pattern actually isn't that much more difficult than the checkerboard. You simply have to rotate your alternating mowing lines 45 degrees, so that you're mowing essentially from corner to corner within your squared mowing area.[16]
- For a zig-zag pattern, you have to create a diamond pattern first. You'll then need to make a repeating series of alternating 90 degree turns each time you mow over 3 diamonds (either light-dark-light or dark-light-dark in shade). This pattern takes some practice, and may be easier if you create a diagram to follow beforehand.
- To make starting easy and safe, only start the lawnmower on a sidewalk, driveway, or other solid ground.
- Keep pets and children away from the area being mowed and the operating lawnmower.
- Choose hearing protection carefully. While you want to protect yourself from the noise of a gas-powered motor, you also do not want to be so cut off from sound that you are unaware of your surroundings. A quality earplug set, which offers protection while allowing in warning sounds, such as a car horn or a person shouting, is ideal.
- Powered lawnmowers are dangerous equipment. Operated improperly, they can cause serious injury, including death.
- Read the manufacturer's instructions. Understand the mower's power, functions, and limitations. Understand its safety devices, how they work, and how they must be maintained. Understand how safe operation is distinct from unsafe operation.
- Be particularly aware when pulling the mower toward yourself, so that you do not trip or fall and pull the mower on top on you. Rather than pulling the mower toward you, consider standing to the non-discharge side of the mower, and then walking forward while pulling the mower alongside.
- Always wear hearing and eye protection and tough shoes while mowing. Professional lawn care experts wear long work pants and light, long-sleeved shirts to protect them from power equipment, debris, sun exposure, and insects.
- If your blade becomes clogged with clippings or other debris, do not use your hands to free the blade. Instead, turn the mower off and use water from a garden hose to dislodge the blade of a gasoline-powered mower. Even if the mower is off, the blade may start spinning once the clog is removed. This is due to pent-up torque in the engine.
- Use safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris. Wrap around versions are ideal. Even though modern mowers are designed to keep this to a minimum, there is always the chance of this happening.
- Listening to a portable music device, like an iPod, while mowing is a bad choice. While the earphones might block sound, listening to such a device provides a dangerous mental distraction at a time when total focus is required to properly control dangerous power machinery.
EditThings You'll Need - Hearing and eye protection
- Lawn trimmer
- Lawn mowing equipment, including enough fuel
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
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| How to Recognize Fear in Dogs Posted: 26 May 2018 09:00 AM PDT Many dogs experience fear, and sometimes it can be hard to tell what's causing a dog to feel afraid. Fortunately, it is easy to recognize fear in dogs by looking closely at their body language and behavior. You also can help your own dog cope with fear by observing it, learning its triggers, and avoiding its triggers or gradually training it with ways to cope. You can also help it manage aggression caused by fear to avoid problems like biting. EditLooking at Subtle Body Language - Look for the whites in a dog's eyes. A dog who's tense or fearful may widen its eyes so that they appear rounder than normal. A relaxed dog often squints so that the eyes become almond-shaped with hardly any whites showing at all. If you can see lots of white around a dog's eyes, the dog may be afraid or tense.[1]
- Dilated pupils can also occur when a dog has its eyes widened and is another sign of fear or arousal. Dilated pupils become bigger and take up almost the whole inside of the eyes, making it harder to see the eye color and giving the eyes a glassy look.
- If you notice dilated pupils, avoid looking the dog directly in the eyes. The dog may perceive this as aggression from you. Instead, try to look out of the side of your eyes or use your peripheral vision to observe them.
- Watch for eye contact avoidance. Dogs who are afraid may avoid eye contact with people. This will often occur with other signals, like crouching or trying to move away from whatever it is they are afraid of. If a dog is avoiding your eye contact, it may be afraid of you.[2]
- Avoid approaching a dog you don't know who appears fearful of you.
- See if the dog's mouth is closed tightly. A relaxed dog often has its mouth slightly open and may be panting. The corners of the mouth may be turned upward slightly. If a dog has its mouth closed with the lips pulled back, they may be afraid or tense.[3]
- Frequent yawning and lip licking may also accompany this closed-mouth behavior and are signs of stress.
- Teeth-baring accompanied by a growl can be a sign of aggression that's based from fear. There is a difference between smiling and aggressive teeth-baring, however. If a dog is showing teeth, look for other signs to tell whether this is due to happiness or fear-based aggression.
- Listen for rapid, interrupted panting and whining. While steady panting is a sign of a relaxed dog, fast panting that is frequently interrupted by the dog closing its mouth in response to environment changes signals a fearful dog. When the dog closes its mouth, it may make 1 or 2 whining sounds then go back to the rapid panting.[4]
- Check out the dog's ears for changes. If a dog normally has erect ears, putting its ears down or back is a sign that it's afraid. It's a little harder to tell in floppy-eared dogs, but they may also change the direction their ears are pointing when they're afraid or aroused. Look at the base of the ears of a floppy-eared dog to see if they are moving forward or back.[5]
EditRecognizing Major Body and Behavior Changes - Look for tail tucking and stiff wagging. A relaxed dog will have its tail in a neutral position, extending out from the spine or maybe a little above or below spine level. Relaxed dogs may wag their tail at a steady, relaxed pace. A fearful dog often tucks its tail down between its legs.[6]
- If a dog has its tail tucked between its legs, held against its belly, or held low and wagging stiffly with short, choppy movements, it may be feeling fearful.
- Consider hair changes like raised hairs or excessive shedding. Similar to humans having goose-bumps, a fearful dog may experience skin changes that lead to raised hairs across its shoulders, down its spine, or near the tail. These areas of raised hairs are called "hackles," and may not always mean immediate fear or aggression but are often a sign the dog is excited or stressed.[7]
- A dog who's experiencing repeated fear and stress may shed a lot. If a dog is shedding more than normal, it is likely upset about something in its daily environment.
- Look for major posture changes like stiffness, trembling, or staying low. A happy, playful dog will have movements that are loose and wiggly, with lots of activity and brief pauses. A dog who seems stiff, moves slowly, or moves away does not want to be near whatever is happening. This dog may also tremble, crouch low to the ground, or roll onto its side or back.[8]
- If a dog is low to the ground and looking away, scratching, or sniffing, this is avoidance behavior and is a sign that it's no longer interested in social interaction.
- Watch for freezing or frantic attempts to escape. An extremely fearful dog may freeze in place and wait for the fear trigger to pass. Or it may frantically run around, trying to get away from whatever is causing its fear. If a dog is this afraid, it may urinate or defecate if the stress trigger continues or it's approached by a person or animal that's causing the fear.[9]
- A dog may also have a frequent hiding spot that it runs to, such as to the basement during a thunderstorm.
- Notice food refusal. If your dog is suddenly refusing food but was hungry earlier and is moving away from you or the source of the food, it's probably alarmed about something. Notice what is causing the fear and, if this is a frequent stress trigger, you can begin helping your dog to cope by calmly talking to it and offering treats whenever that trigger is around.[10]
EditHelping to Calm Your Fearful Dog - Observe what's happening each time your dog becomes afraid. Certain loud noises, such as fireworks, are common fear triggers for many dogs. Other dogs may have more particular fears of things that are "normal" to most other dogs and people, like people wearing hats or baby strollers.
- Watching your dog and the environment closely each time it becomes afraid will help you to determine its triggers, or things that cause stress or fear. For instance, during walks, if your dog repeatedly becomes afraid near a certain house or other location there is probably something there it is afraid of.[11]
- Write down things you notice that cause your dog to become afraid. You may start to notice a pattern that will make it easier to deal with avoiding these things or training him to no longer be afraid of them.
- Rule out medical issues. Many dogs experience fears when they are medically sick or injured. Because they don't understand why they feel bad or hurt, they become stressed and afraid. Call your veterinarian or schedule a vet visit to discuss any sudden increases in fearful behavior in your dog, especially if it is hard to determine any type of trigger pattern.[12]
- If your dog suddenly seems afraid of everything or of things that never caused it fear before, this is a sign of a medical issue requiring a visit to the vet. Conditions like arthritis or other pain-related complications may cause this kind of fear.
- Allow your dog space from known fear triggers if possible. Once you have observed your dog's fear and tracked the things that are triggers, make a list of these things and make some adjustments. For example, if you know your dog doesn't like people in hats, ask guests coming to your house to remove their hats when they come over.
- When you're out, try to cross the street if you see someone walking toward you who's wearing a hat if this is your dog's trigger.[13]
- It won't be possible to avoid all triggers in some cases but trying to avoid them as much as possible builds your dog's trust in you, which will make it easier to eventually train it to cope with the triggers.
- Expose your new dog to new environments gradually. If your dog is young or has had a very limited outside environment before becoming your dog, it may just need more experience with new environments. Stick to a regular walk route normally, but bring your dog on walks to new places and encourage social interactions occasionally. Each time it interacts with new people and other dogs successfully, offer praise and treats.
- The only time to avoid new environments is if you know that strangers and other dogs are some of your dog's triggers, especially if it becomes fear-aggressive around new people or dogs.[14]
- Teach a specific behavior to help your dog cope with triggers. When your dog sees a known trigger, teach it to do something specific like to look at you or to sit. This is often easier if your dog has a bit of training already. Keep treats with you when you go on walks to make it easier to do this training when your dog sees a trigger.[15]
- For instance, if you see a bicycle coming and you know your dog is afraid of bicycles, move in front of your dog to block its view a bit and say, "Look at me. Now sit," then immediately give your dog a treat if it looks at you and sits.
- Work with a trainer if your dog becomes aggressive when afraid. If your dog shows signs of aggression when it's afraid, such as growling, barking, chasing, or snarling, contact a trainer to help you work with your dog on these issues. This is also a good idea if your dog is afraid of a wide variety of things and it becomes difficult to complete normal tasks at home or to bring your dog anywhere.[16]
- You can find out about trainers through local animal shelters or by searching online for professional dog trainers in your area.
- Avoid overreacting when your dog becomes afraid. If you become extremely affectionate and attempt to "baby" your dog through its fear, this may reinforce the fearful behavior. On the other hand, punishing your dog for being afraid is also never a good idea. Do not yell at or hit a dog when it's afraid, because this will only increase your dog's fears, especially of you.[17]
- Try to remain calm and get your dog away from its source of fear as soon as possible. Or, if you are training your dog to cope with fears, offer praise and treats immediately if it listens to your commands.
- Do not attempt to approach a dog you don't know. Some dogs are afraid of strangers and are more likely to become aggressive if a stranger approaches them. Speak with the dog's owner first or contact animal control if you encounter a stray dog.
EditSources and Citations
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