| How to Hide a Hole in a Shirt Posted: 07 Apr 2020 01:00 AM PDT If you're fashion-conscious, few things are worse than realizing your favorite shirt has a big hole in it. Although you may think your favorite shirt is ruined, don't throw it away yet. Most holes can easily be hidden, such as by ironing on a simple fabric patch. If you're looking for a more permanent way to fill in or even decorate a hole, sew it shut with colored thread. Sometimes you can't fix a hole right away, so get creative and find ways to hide it underneath clothing or other items. With the right fix, you can still look your best without having to bring along a change of clothes. [Edit]Trying Quick Fixes on the Go - Tuck your shirt in if the hole is near them hem. Tuck the hem into your pants to cover a hole near the bottom part of the shirt. If the hole near the collar or sleeves, you still might be able to hide it in a natural way. For instance, if it's near the collar, fold the collar down to cover it. For holes on shirt sleeves, roll the sleeves up.
- If the hole can't easily be hidden this way, stay aware of it. For example, you may be able to hide a hole in the armpit just by keeping your arm down until you get home.
- Wear a matching color underneath the shirt to make a hole less visible. Try putting on something light, such as a thin T-shirt, underneath the damaged shirt. Make sure it is long enough to cover the hole. If both shirts match in color, people won't be able to see the hole unless they look closely.
- Pants or other articles of clothing can also be used to mask some holes this way.
- Wear a jacket over your shirt for holes that are difficult to hide. Put on a jacket to cover a hole anywhere on a shirt. Unless the hole is in the front, you won't even have to zip up. Sweatshirts and button-ups are also good options. If you don't have anything to wear, purchase an additional layer if you have the time.
- Layering clothing is easier during cold or stormy weather. People will notice if you're wearing an extra layer during a heatwave, and you will end up sweating so much that you would rather leave the hole exposed.
- Cover holes with matching colored tape if you have any. Pick tape that blends in well with your shirt. Try using a piece of masking tape cut to the size of the hole, for instance. Set it on top of the hole and press it flat. If it matches your shirt well enough, the tape can prevent people from noticing the hole.[1]
- Tape tends to work best on darker colors, such as black. It blends in better with the shirt.
- Tape is best used on less exposed areas, such as around the shirt's hem. If the tape is in a very visible spot, people will be more likely to notice it.
- Cover the hole with an accessory if you have one that fits. When you're in a pinch, reach for any sort of decoration you can fit over the hole. For example, get a big button, a badge, or a brooch and pin it to your shirt. You could use a plastic flower or something equally colorful. Tuck the stem in, then pin the flower in place.[2]
- Some decorations may draw attention to your shirt. If the hole is well-covered, decorations can make your shirt look more stylish instead of damaged.
- Pins are also very useful for attaching fabric to holes. You could create a makeshift patch to use until you're able to install a real one.
- When you're in a pinch, you may not have many options. Find what you can. Consider carrying a spare clip or safety pin for emergencies.
[Edit]Patching a Shirt - Cut a patch of fabric bigger than the hole. Choose a piece of fabric that matches the color of your shirt. Try matching the texture and weight of the material as well. You can buy fabric patches or cut a patch from another piece of clothing.[3]
- If you're trying to patch a multicolored shirt, use a color that blends in well. For example, choose a fabric color that matches the print on the shirt.
- You can buy iron-on shirt patches online and at many fabric stores.
- Trim a piece of fusible web bonding to the same size as the patch. Place the patch on top of the fusible bonding to gauge how to cut it. Trace around it with pencil, then trim it to size with fabric scissors. The fusible bonding will be the adhesive that binds the patch to the shirt.
- In general, the fusible bonding should be the same size or a little smaller than the patch so it doesn't bleed through the hole.[4]
- You can get fusible bonding online or at fabric stores. It comes in a sheet, similar to regular fabric.
- Turn the shirt inside out and place the fusible bonding over the hole. Center the fusible bonding over the hole. Make sure the hole is completely covered. The fusible bonding should overlap the hole by at least on all sides. If it looks a little small, cut a bigger piece.[5]
- If you're having a hard time getting the fusible bonding to lay flat, iron the shirt. Also, trim away any loose thread around the hole.
- Place the fabric patch on top of the fusible bonding. Line up the edges of the patch with the fusible bonding beneath it. If they are slightly different sizes, double-check that the patch completely covers the fusible bonding. If it doesn't, cut a bigger patch or trim the fusible bonding a little smaller while still ensuring it covers the hole in your shirt.[6]
- The fusible bonding is the glue between the pieces of fabric. It can cause the shirt to stick to your ironing board.
- If you're fixing a hole less than in size, you could heat the fusible bonding without the patch, then press the shirt's threads together to cover the hole. It's possible to fix the hole without making a patch, although the repair won't be as sturdy as usual.
- Warm the patch with an iron on a low-heat wool setting for 10 seconds. Turn the iron to the wool setting and let it heat up for about 2 minutes. Once it is warm, place it on top of the patch. Hold it still so the patch can't shift out of place. Then, turn the iron off, set it in a space spot to cool down, and check the patch.[7]
- If your iron doesn't have a wool setting, mist the patch with lukewarm water to soften it and press out wrinkles.
- Consult the manufacturer's instructions for specifics about how to heat the fusible bonding. It can vary a little depending on which product you buy.
[Edit]Sewing a Hole Shut - Select a type of thread that matches your shirt's color and texture. While you can use other colors if you wish, get thread that matches your shirt color so the stitching blends in as much as possible. For texture, cotton thread works well in most cases. If you're trying to fix a thinner material like chiffon or satin, use nylon or silk thread instead.[8]
- Purchase thread online or from a fabric store. While you're there, make sure you have a needle and other sewing supplies.
- If you're trying to cover a hole more than in size, you could sew a patch onto the shirt. Another option is to darn the shirt by sewing across the hole.
- Thread a needle with at least of thread. Unroll the thread from its spool, then cut it off with a sharp pair of scissors. Take the end of the thread and slip it into the needle. Slide the needle until it's about halfway along the thread. Then, knot the thread right behind the needle.[9]
- If you're having trouble threading the needle, dampen the end of the thread a little bit. You could also get a needle threader to pull the thread through the needle's eye.
- Poke the needle up through the fabric near the hole. Start on the top right side of the hole. Position your needle inside the shirt, then pull it up through the fabric. Keep pulling it until it's about above the shirt. Make sure the needle is about away from the hole so the stitches don't fall apart.[10]
- If you're having a hard time positioning the needle, turn the shirt inside out. Try lifting up one of the shirt's threads and moving the needle underneath it to start the stitch.
- Move the needle through the fabric on the opposite side of the opening. Bring the needle down through the hole without touching the fabric first. While it's inside the shirt, position it. Pull it up through the shirt again to finish the stitch. Doing this will pull the fabric closer together, covering part of the hole.[11]
- The positioning of the needle determines how big the stitches are. Smaller stitches are stronger, so don't try to bridge the entire hole unless it's very small.
- Stitch on opposite sides of the hole until it is completely closed. Follow the same steps to make subsequent stitches. From inside the shirt, position the needle to the left of where it initially passed through the shirt. After pulling it through, position the needle to the left of where you had it the second time to complete the initial stitch. Continue making as many stitches as needed to complete the repair.[12]
- Take your time and keep your stitches as even possible. Remember to keep them at the right distance from the hole so they are strong but well-hidden.
- If you're darning a large hole, sew across the entire hole in one direction. Afterward, sew perpendicularly to the threads to create a woven net filling the gap in the fabric.
- Pull the needle inside of the shirt to knot the thread. Wrap the remaining thread around the needle about 3 times to create loops. Pull the needle through these loops to create knots. Make about 2 or 3 knots. When you're done, pull the knots toward the shirt so they won't be visible.[13]
- Test the knots afterward by pulling on the thread. If it seems loose, tie it again. Make sure the knots are secure so the hole doesn't return.
- Cut the excess length of string to finish the repair. Pull the ends of the thread toward an opening on the shirt. Reach in and snip the thread underneath the knot. Remember that the thread has 2 "tails," so cut both of them off before wearing the shirt again.[14]
- If you're feeling creative, you could embroider a design on the shirt using different thread colors. It's a clever way to mask stitching by making it part of a colorful design.
- Use a fabric repair glue if you are unable to stitch the hole shut. Lay the shirt facedown and trim away any loose threads around the hole. Squeeze a small amount of glue onto a separate surface, such as a piece of scrap paper. Then, use something small, like a plastic knife or toothpick, to spread the glue around the hole. Squeeze the fabric together afterward for about 2 minutes until it sticks in place.[15]
- Wait at least 24 hours before wearing or washing the shirt. Give the glue plenty of time to dry out.
- Note that glue only works for small holes and tears. It also won't be as permanent as stitching but can be less visible.
- If you're trying to repair a shirt you really love, take it to a professional. A good tailor can make the damaged portion look much less noticeable.
- If you're worried about holes or stains, always bring along something you can use in an emergency, such as a jacket, a needle and thread, or a piece of tape.
- If you discover a hole in your shirt, act like it's natural. Don't pick at it or otherwise make it worse, or else it will be harder to repair when you get home.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Trying Quick Fixes on the Go - Colored tape
- Pins or clips
- Other clothing
[Edit]Patching a Shirt - Fabric matching your shirt
- Fusible web bonding
- Pencil
- Fabric scissors
- Iron
- Ironing board or another heatproof surface
- Spray bottle (optional)
[Edit]Sewing a Hole Shut - Colored thread
- Sharp scissors
- Sewing needle
[Edit]References |
| How to Use a Peloton Bike Posted: 06 Apr 2020 05:00 PM PDT The Peloton indoor cycling bike features a built-in wireless touchscreen that allows you to stream live or on-demand classes to get a great workout at home. Your Peloton bike must be delivered and installed by professionals so it can be calibrated and connected. But, once you're set-up, using your bike is easy and fun! Adjust the bike so it's comfortable for you and choose your first ride from the touchscreen menu. Eventually, you'll become fluent in the lingo and you may even want to join a tribe of riders that share some of your interests. [Edit]Setting the Seat Position - Turn the lever below the seat to the left to loosen it. Find the lever that adjusts the height of the seat located on the frame of the bike below the seat. Rotate it to the left, or counterclockwise, to loosen it. Turn it so the seat is loose enough to be moved up and down.[1]
- Allow the lever to keep a little bit of tension on the seat so it doesn't slide all the way down as you adjust it.
- Stand next to the bike and move the seat so it's aligned with your hip. Once the seat is loose enough to move, use your hands to raise it up or down. Move the seat so it's in line with the bone of your hip so it's adjusted to the proper height.[2]
- Aligning the seat with your hip bone is recommended for first time users, but eventually, you may find that a different seat position is more comfortable for you. For example, if you have really long legs, raising the seat a little higher than hip-height can reduce tension on your knees.
- Tighten the seat by turning the lever to the right. Lock the seat into position by rotating the lever on the frame clockwise, or to the right. Continue turning the lever until the seat is held firmly and securely.[3]
- Loosen the lever underneath the seat by turning it to the left. Find the lever that adjusts the depth of your seat, which is located on the underside of it. Rotate it counterclockwise to loosen it so you can easily move the seat forward or backward with your hands.[4]
- Use the length of your arm to adjust the seat to the proper depth. Stand next to your bike and rest your elbow on the nose, or the very front of the seat. Then, keeping your elbow on the seat, try to touch the handlebars with your fingertips. Move the seat so that your fingertips just touch the handlebars.[5]
- Using your elbow and fingertips is an easy way for beginners to find a proper seat depth, but you may find that a different position is more comfortable for you.
- Rotate the lever to the right to tighten the seat. Use 1 hand to hold the seat in position and turn the lever to the right to tighten it. Continue rotating the lever as far as you can so the seat is held firmly and securely in position.[6]
[Edit]Adjusting the Handlebar Height - Loosen the lever on the front of the bike by turning it to the left. Find the lever that controls the height of the handlebars located on the very front of the bike. Turn the lever counterclockwise to loosen the handlebars so they can be moved up and down.[7]
- Stand in front of the seat and place your forearms under the handlebars. Stand with the frame of the bike between your legs and the handlebars in front of you. Cradle the handlebars with your forearms and bend your knees slightly.[8]
- Don't try to raise the handlebars from the front or side of the bike or you could strain your back.
- Lift the handlebars and hold them in place. Press up through your forearms to raise the handlebars. When you've reached your desired height, hold them in place with 1 of your arms cradled beneath them.[9]
- Tighten the lever by turning it to the right to secure the handlebars. With 1 arm cradling the handlebars to keep them held in position, use your other hand to rotate the adjustment lever to the right to tighten it. Continue turning the lever as far as you can so the handlebars are held in position.[10]
[Edit]Clipping in and out of the Bike - Stand with 1 foot on each side of the bike frame and the pedals lying flat. Stand over the center of the bike frame with the pedals between your legs. Move the pedals so they're aligned horizontally with the ground and the Peloton logo is facing up.[11]
- The Peloton logo must be facing up in order for you to fit your shoes into the grooves on the pedals.
- Insert the cleat of 1 shoe into the grooves of a pedal with your toes pointing down. Peloton bikes use "clipless" pedals, so you'll need to wear cycling shoes with a 3-bolt cleat that fit into them. Align the cleat on the bottom of 1 of your shoes with the grooves on the top of 1 of the pedals. Point your toes down as you slide 1 of your shoes into the grooves and begin to push forward on the pedal.[12]
- You don't have to use the Peloton brand shoes to clip into the bike. Any cycling shoe that has a 3-bolt cleat mount will work just fine!
- Keep your other foot firmly planted on the ground to provide balance.
- Push down on the pedal until you hear it click into place. Drive through the heel of your foot as you rotate the pedals. Continue pushing until you hear a "click" and your shoe snaps into place on the pedal.[13]
- Slide your other foot into the other pedal and press forward. Move the pedals so they're lying flat and insert the cleat of your other shoe into the grooves on the top of the other pedal. Point your toes down and drive through your heel as you rotate the pedals until you hear it snap into place.[14]
- Kick your heel outward and your toes inward to clip out of the bike. Whenever you're ready to clip out of the bike, bring the pedals to a complete stop. Then, use 1 swift motion to kick your heel outward and drive your toes toward the frame of the bike. The locking mechanism will disengage and you can remove your foot from the pedal. Repeat the motion on the other side to remove your other shoe.[15]
- Never try to clip out while the pedals are still spinning or you could seriously injure yourself.
[Edit]Riding the Peloton Bike - Turn on your Peloton bike and enter your subscription information to activate it. Press the power button on the touchscreen to turn on the bike and bring up the main menu. Follow the onscreen prompts to enter information such as your time zone and the email you used to pay for your subscription. Choose the subscription for the account and tap the button that says "Activate."[16]
- If you received your Peloton bike as a gift, enter the subscription activation key instead of your email.
- Add any additional riders that may use the bike as well.
- Create a leaderboard name that represents you. When you login to your Peloton bike's home screen for the first time, you'll be prompted to create a screen name that will appear on the leaderboard and the class roster. Choose one that tells a little bit about yourself and is relatively simple and easy to read so your instructor can give you a shout out during a live class.[17]
- For example, if you're a stay-at-home mom, and you're looking to be more active, you could choose a screen name like, "FitMomEmma." Or, if you're an early riser, you could choose something like, "ZeroDarkThirtyRider."
- Avoid vulgar or complicated leaderboard names like, "xX_JR1996M_xX_" which can be difficult to read.
- Your leaderboard name can give a sense of who you are, which will help you find riders with similar personalities and interests.
- Check out the Peloton 101 tutorial if you're brand new to the bike. Once you're logged into the home screen, look for the video series labeled "Peloton 101" in the list of menu options. If you're just getting started riding your Peloton bike, spend some time going through the videos so you can get even more familiar with your bike.[18]
- You don't have to watch all of the tutorial at once if you're ready to get to a ride. You can always check it out later.
- Choose an on-demand ride to ride whenever you want. Once you're logged in, look through the onscreen menu for lists of rides that you can choose. If you can't make the time that a live class is set to start, or you just want to choose your own ride on your own time, select the on-demand menu. Scroll through the options and read the descriptions find one that sounds appealing to you.[19]
- You can still save your stats and details during on-demand rides so you can revisit them later and add to your overall riding scores.
- Look at the type of ride to find one that's right for you. For example, choose a "Beginner" ride if you're new to the bike, or choose a "Heart Rate Zone" ride for a cardio-focused ride.
- Join a live ride if you want to participate in real-time. Check the times on the home screen for upcoming live rides and join the lobby about 10 minutes before the ride is set to start so you can participate in the warmup and class discussion. You'll be able to actively participate in real-time and ask questions or receive feedback from the instructor.[20]
- You'll get a shoutout from the instructor for your first live ride!
- Select an encore ride to have your results on a live leaderboard. If you can't make it for a live ride, you can choose one from the encore menu to participate in a pre-recorded ride with an active leaderboard. You'll have real-time riders participating with you, and you'll be able to save your stats for the ride to contribute to your total riding scores.[21]
- An encore ride is a great option if you have certain instructors that you prefer, but you can't always make their live rides.
- Follow the directions of your instructor during your ride. Whenever a ride starts, follow the commands of the instructor so you can get the most out of your ride while also ensuring that you do it safely. When your instructor says to speed up, speed up! When they tell you to slow down, slow down. Each ride has an intentional structure and pace for you to follow.[22]
- Increase the resistance by turning the resistance knob clockwise. During the ride, your instructor will tell you to either increase or decrease the resistance. To do this, locate the resistance knob on the frame of the below the handlebars. Turn it to the right to increase the resistance and to the left to decrease the resistance.[23]
- As you get more experienced, you'll become better at finding the right amount of resistance for you.
- Press the resistance knob straight down to apply the brakes. If you need to slow down your bike or bring it to a quick stop, you can apply the brakes by pressing the resistance knob straight down. Continue holding the knob down until the pedals have slowed enough to allow you to bring them to a stop on your own.[24]
[Edit]Learning the Lingo - Use the Peloton picks program to try different coaching styles. Every Peloton coach will have their own way of motivating you and have a vocabulary that is slightly different than other instructors. Explore the Peloton picks option on the home screen to try out rides with different instructors so you can find one that you enjoy. As you ride with them more often, you'll pick up on their unique cues and lingo.[25]
- You'll also see when each instructor has scheduled live rides so you can work to incorporate them into your schedule.
- Place your hands at the widest part of the handlebars for 1st position. Take a comfortable seated position on the seat of the bike, also known as the saddle. Lean forward with your back flat and straight, your shoulders relaxed, and your chest open to allow your lungs to expand. Place your hands at the widest part of the handlebars.[26]
- Whenever an instructor tells you to go back to 1st position in a ride, gently return to this position.
- If you have to reach for the handlebars, try adjusting your seat so it's closer and more comfortable for you.
- Rise out of the seat and continue to pedal to be in 2nd position. Turn the resistance knob clockwise so it takes more effort to pedal. Stand up out of the seat with your head up and chest open as you continue to pedal. Position your hips so they're directly over the pedals and place your hands on the bend of the handlebars to support your upper body.[27]
- 2nd position is often used for low-speed, high resistance standing jogs.
- Stand with your hips in front of the pedals to use 3rd position. Increase the resistance by turning the knob so you can stand out of the seat. Rise up out of the seat with your head high and your chest open and position your hips in front of the pedals as you continue to turn them. Place your hands at the top of the handlebars for stability.[28]
- This position is often used for steep climbs or to accelerate to high speeds.
- Calculate your Power Zone so you can push yourself on rides. Select an "FTP" test ride from the library on your monitor and complete it to find your specific zones so you can use them to go on Power Zone rides. Knowing your specific zones will help you understand how hard you need to push yourself in order to stay in the zone and get the most out of your rides.[29]
- Focusing on Power Zone rides will also allow you to track your progress as you get better and better.
- Look for the instructors Denis Morton and Matt Wilpers in the library to find FTP test rides you can use to find your zones.
- Give high-fives to other riders by tapping their profile picture. During a live or encore ride, you can congratulate another rider or simply say hello by sending them a "high-five." Locate the profile picture of the person you want to high-five next to their leaderboard name on your home screen. Double-tap the picture with your finger to send them a high-five.[30]
- The other rider will be notified that you send them a high-five and they may send one in return.
- If someone breaks their own record or if you both just survived a tough steep climb, a high-five is a great way to motivate each other!
- Earn a Century Shirt by completing 100 rides. Once you finish your 100th ride, you're eligible for a Peloton Century Shirt that you can wear to show off your accomplishment. Look for an email within a week or so after you finish your 100th ride, or reach out to the Peloton support team to ask about it if you don't receive an email. The shirt itself is free, but you'll need to pay a shipping fee to have it sent to you.[31]
- Shipping usually costs about $7 or so.
- If you try to buy a Century Shirt before you earn it, it will cost $100,000!
- Join a tribe that appeals to you to find a community of riders. On the leaderboard during rides, you'll see various groups of riders labeled with a hashtag, such as #PelotonMoms or #PowerZonePack. These are "tribes" or groups of riders who have similar interests that participate in rides together. Join a tribe that shares similar interests so you can ride with them and keep yourself motivated.[32]
- For example, there are tribes of doctors, lawyers, teachers, early morning risers, and many more that you can choose to join.
- Many tribes also have Facebook groups that you can join so you can communicate with them outside of the Peloton rides.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Peloton bike
- Cycling shoes with a 3-bolt cleat
- Sweat towel
- Water bottle
[Edit]References |
| How to Build a Recording Booth Posted: 06 Apr 2020 09:00 AM PDT A homemade recording booth can be a great option when you want to record vocals or acoustic instruments. In order to build a recording booth yourself, you'll need some general knowledge of carpentry and experience with basic home improvement projects. However, with the right tools and know-how you can complete this project in a week or two. Think of building a recording booth as adding a small room to your home, with a lot of the same steps like framing the walls and putting up drywall. Feel free to contract out any parts of the project you don't feel comfortable tackling yourself. [Edit]Planning the Booth - Choose a corner of an existing room to build your recording booth in. Select a corner of a room where you want to build your recording booth so you only have to construct 2 walls. Pick a corner with exterior-facing walls if possible because they are generally thicker and more sound-proof.[1]
- This applies to building a rectangular recording booth from the ground up. You will need to have basic knowledge of carpentry including framing and drywalling in order to build the booth. If you don't have the tools or know-how to do it yourself, hire a contractor to build the booth for you.
- Make sure the room you select has a solid floor as well. For instance, a ground floor or a basement is a good choice. A room on an upper floor is not ideal as these floors are not as stable, which can be bad for recording if the floor vibrates or makes creaking noises.
- Select a corner with an existing light fixture or outlet if possible. Build the booth around an existing light fixture if you can to provide light inside the booth without the added work of installing a new fixture in the ceiling. Construct the booth in a corner with an existing wall outlet to provide more sources of electricity in the booth that you can plug a lamp or audio equipment into.[2]
- If building the booth around an existing light fixture isn't an option, you can run some LED lighting strips around the ceiling and floor of the booth for light.
- Measure the room and find the studs in the corner walls. Use a tape measure to measure the length, width, and height of the room and write down the measurements. Use a stud finder to locate the studs in the 2 walls of the corner that you plan to build the booth in and mark their positions on the wall with a pencil.[3]
- You can draw a rough sketch of the room and write down the measurements and stud positions if it's easier for you to visualize the booth that way.
- Make the booth a size that fits in the room and lines up with wall stud locations. Plan for 1 short wall and 1 longer wall, of about 1.5 times the length of the short wall, to make a rectangular booth. Make the walls long enough that they will line up with studs in the existing walls to screw them into.[4]
- A good standard size for a rectangular recording booth is by . However, adjust the size based on the space you have available and the positions of the studs in your walls.
- Think about the kind of recording you want to do when planning the size of the booth as well. For example, a by booth is best suited to solo vocalists or acoustic artists, or maybe 2-person bands. If you want to be able to record a larger band, you might want to think about converting an entire room into a recording studio rather than building a booth.
[Edit]Constructing the Frame - Buy a door for your recording booth and note down the measurements. Pick out and purchase a door before you construct the frame. You will use the measurements to build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the wall frames.[5]
- A door with a glass window at the top or even a door that is mostly glass is a good option for a recording booth so you can allow some light into the booth and have visibility between the booth and the surrounding room.
- Construct the frames for the walls. Build the shorter wall and the longer wall out of by pieces of lumber and screw the pieces together using wood screws and a power drill. Make the walls as tall as the room's ceiling height, which is usually about .[6]
- For example, if your recording booth is going to be by , build 1 wall that is long and 1 that is long.
- You can either cut the lumber to size yourself or have it cut for you at a home improvement center or lumber yard.
- Build a rough opening for the door into 1 of the walls. Construct a door frame that is wider than the width of the door and taller than the height of the door. Make it out of by lumber as with the rest of the wall frames.[7]
- For example, if the door is a standard by size, make the rough opening by .
- Note that this step must be done simultaneously with building the wall frames.
- Screw the frames into studs in the existing corner walls and into the floor. Stand up the longer wall in place, lining it up carefully with the stud in the wall that you planned for, then fasten it to the stud using wood screws and a power drill. Repeat this for the shorter wall and screw the 2 wall frames together where they meet. Screw the bottoms of the frames into the floor as well.[8]
- Have someone help you hold the walls up and steady while you drive the screws into place.
- If the floor of the room is a standard wooden floor, use wood screws to secure the frame to the floor. If you are building your booth somewhere like a garage or basement with a cement floor, use masonry screws.
- Attach electrical boxes for an audio outlet and electrical outlet to the frame. Nail or screw 1 electrical box for the electrical outlet to a beam of the frame, about from the floor. Attach another electrical box for the audio cable outlet 1 or 2 beams over.[9]
- Make sure to check local electrical regulations before you install the electrical boxes. If you aren't sure, consult a licensed electrician.
- Unless you have experience with electrical work, it's best to get an electrician to do the actual wiring for you. You can go ahead and install the electrical boxes on the frame if you want, but have a licensed electrician finish the wiring work.
[Edit]Insulating, Drywalling, and Painting the Walls - Stuff R-19 fiberglass insulation between the studs of the booth's walls. Cut pieces to fit between the studs from a roll of R-19 fiberglass insulation using a utility knife. Fill in all the spaces between studs with the insulation.[10]
- FIberglass insulation comes in rolls that are wide, the standard width between wall studs, so it will fit perfectly between the studs and stay in place.
- You can buy special soundproofing insulation instead of standard fiberglass insulation if your budget allows for it. However, fiberglass insulation tends to work just as well and is much more affordable.
- Hang drywall inside and outside of the walls. Cut pieces of drywall to fit the walls, with holes for the electrical boxes, and attach them to the frames using drywall screws and an electric drill. Cover the drywall with 3 thin layers of drywall mud, letting each layer dry for 24 hours and sanding it smooth before applying the next coat.[11]
- You can hire a drywall contractor to complete this part of the job for you if you don't want to deal with all the cutting, hanging, and mudding yourself.
- Paint the walls a color of your choice. Use a paint roller to apply a coat of primer to both the interior and exterior walls. Wait until the primer dries, then paint over it with 1-2 coats of wall paint.[12]
- You might want to match the exterior wall paint to the color of the walls you built the booth in so it looks more like part of the room. However, you could paint it a different color if you want it to stand out as an accent.
[Edit]Adding the Door and Soundproofing the Booth - Hang the door in the rough frame. Fit the door into the frame you built for it in 1 of the walls. Mount the door to the frame using its provided hinges, hardware, and screws.[13]
- If it is too difficult for you to hang the door properly yourself, hire a carpenter to do it for you.
- Mount strips of wood on the inside of the door frame to create door stops. Close the door so it is flush with the outside wall, then mark the position of the inside edge of the door all the way around the inside of the door frame using a pencil. Cut pieces of by lumber to fit around the sides of the frame, then nail them into place with the edges lined up along the marks you made on the inside of the frame.[14]
- The door stops will ensure the door closes properly as well as help you soundproof the booth.
- Stick rubberized foam tape weather stripping around the door stops. Cut strips of rubberized foam tape weather stripping to the length of each strip of door stop. Press them against the edges of the door stops that face the door.[15]
- This will help soundproof the booth by ensuring a tight seal when the door is closed.
- Apply acoustic foam tiles to all the inside surfaces of the booth. Use an adhesive spray to mount acoustic foam tiles to all the inside walls of the booth, as well as the inside of the door. Cut the foam tiles to size as needed using a utility knife.[16] by in size. Measure the total area of the booth's interior walls to determine how many tiles you'll need to cover it.}}
- If your door has any glass in it, don't cover up the glass with acoustic foam.
- The foam tiles will help keep sound inside the recording booth to create good acoustics. This, along with the insulation inside the walls and the weather stripping around the door, means that your booth should now be pretty soundproof and ready to record!
[Edit]Warnings - Always wear thick work gloves when you work with fiberglass insulation to protect your hands from glass slivers.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Pen or pencil
- Paper
- by lumber
- Power drill
- Power saw
- wood screws
- Hammer
- Nails
- R-19 fiberglass insulation
- Gloves
- Utility knife
- Drywall
- Drywall saw
- Drywall mud
- Drywall screws
- Wall paint
- Paint roller
- Paint tray
- Interior door
- Rubberized foam tape weather stripping
- by lumber
- Acoustic foam tiles
- Adhesive spray
[Edit]References |
| How to Win at Kick Ups Posted: 06 Apr 2020 01:00 AM PDT Kick ups, which is also known as keepie-uppies, is the practice of juggling a soccer ball with the feet, thighs, and head. It's a great way to practice ball control, and is a workout too. Winning in competitive kick ups with friends or teammates requires consistent practice and using techniques like watching the ball, getting into a cycle, and knowing where the ball is going to go. You can get good at the basics first, solidify your skills and style, and then focus yourself for the win. [Edit]Perfecting the Basics - Bounce the ball on your thigh. Although soccer primarily uses the feet, beginners at kick ups should master using the thighs first because it's a bit easier than foot juggling. The ball should hit the flat surface of the thigh, not anywhere on the knee. Drop the ball to the thigh, bounce it once, and catch it. Do this for enough reps to get the motion down before going for multiple bounces.
- Use the bridge of your foot on the laces. When the thighs are mastered, incorporate the feet. Drop the ball and make contact with it where the toes start. Keep your toes pointed slightly up so that the ball bounces up rather than forward.
- If you straighten your toes out to point forward, the ball is more likely to bounce away from you.
- Start with one bounce at a time off your foot, making sure the ball goes straight up. When you get good at keeping the ball straight, go for more kicks in a row.
- Start using your non-dominant foot. Most people have a dominant foot, and it's easier to let that foot do all the work, but the players who are best at kick ups will be equally strong with both feet. Once you get good with your dominant foot, begin practicing just as hard with your other foot.
- This will give your dominant foot a break during competitive kicks ups and give you more options to get a pattern going.
- Launch the ball up to your head, using either your foot or thigh. Kicking the ball with just the right amount of power up to your head is tricky and takes time to perfect. When you kick the ball into the air, it should be just out in front of your head so that you have to lean slightly forward to hit it. The ball should bounce off the flat part of your head rather than your forehead.
- Work to hit the ball straight up off your head rather than forward or backward.
- Moving the ball from your foot to your head may be a little easier than from your thigh to your head because you can get more power with your foot.
[Edit]Building Your Kick Ups Skills - Practice consistently. Beating others at kick ups means being consistently better than them, which is only achieved by practicing. You should practice kick ups techniques every day to build the strength in your legs and to form muscle memory for the motion juggling the ball takes. One way to practice is to set a certain time limit for which you must work on the skills, and then increase this time a little bit every day.
- Try to go for 10 seconds straight or for 10 reps without dropping the ball. Set a goal like this and then as you reach it, set a new, slightly higher goal.
- Find the motion that works best for you. Being comfortable with juggling will help you win kick ups more often, so if a certain way of moving feels better, do it that way. Some people like to move the foot at the ankle to pop the ball up, while others prefer slightly extending the knee to kick at the ball. You can even move your bent leg up and down at the hip.[1]
- Try using each approach for a few minutes and see which feels the most natural to you. Then get proficient at that style.
- Do drills to get the technique just right. You can't start out with the goal of getting 50 bounces on the first try. On a hard surface, bounce the ball off the ground and kick it up once into your hands. Drop it again and kick it twice, with a bounce in between, before catching it. Then kick it twice with no bounce and catch it. This progression will help get the exact motion right before going for too long.[2]
- You want the ball to go straight up after the kick without too much spin, so if you do one kick and it doesn't go straight up, stay on that step of the drill until you can kick it straight up. This gives you a foundation to build on.
- You can build on this basic drill by passing it from one foot to the other, going from foot to head back to thigh, or do 10 reps on the foot, then 10 on the thigh, then 10 on the head. The goal of drills is to get the technique right on a few reps before trying for the most reps.
[Edit]Staying in the Zone - Watch the ball. It may feel like keeping your eye on the ball makes you seem weak, but it is the most effective way to keep the ball going. You may think your foot or leg was positioned perfect for a pass up to your head, but watching the ball will help you know for sure. Where the ball goes will tell you whether or not you got the technique right.[3]
- You can practice juggling the ball without looking, to push yourself, but when you are playing to win, watching will give you an added edge on your opponent.
- Focus on your balance. Kick ups requires you to be on one foot for an extended period of time, so having exceptional balance is a useful aspect to master. If you are wobbling all over the place with each kick, you will have less control of where the ball goes. Work hard to maintain upright posture and only move enough to keep the ball moving.[4]
- A good way to practice is just standing on one foot for as long as you can, while staying up straight and not swaying. Once you can stand still for a long time, you'll be able to practice the movement of kicking.
- Move the ball through a pattern. Some people playing kick ups move the ball around at random and are constantly reacting to wherever the ball goes. You can win by having greater control than your opponent. Move the ball in a pattern, using each body part. If you move the ball in a pattern, you'll know exactly where it is going rather than guessing.[5]
- A good pattern might be right foot, left foot, left thigh, right thigh, head. Or you could go up the right side and down the left side by cycling right foot, right thigh, head, left thigh, left foot. The goal is planning ahead where you are passing the ball to.
[Edit]References |
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