| How to Drill a Hole in the Wall Posted: 19 Jun 2021 01:00 AM PDT Drilling a hole in a wall may seem like a daunting task. Fortunately, this job is reasonably simple if you take a few basic precautions and use the right tools. Before you start, pick the appropriate bit for the type of wall you are drilling. You'll also need to pick a good spot to drill your hole, away from any electrical wiring. Once you're ready to make the hole, you'll need to operate the drill with a firm and steady hand. [Edit]Choosing the Right Drill Bit - Use a drywall bit if the wall is sheetrock or plasterboard. Before you start drilling, take a look at your wall and determine what it's made of. If your wall is smooth and sounds hollow when you knock on it, it's likely a form of drywall, such as sheetrock or plasterboard. For drilling a simple hole into this type of wall, a drywall bit is your best bet.[1]
- You can purchase drywall bits and other types of drill bits at most hardware or home improvement stores.
- If you're planning to hang something (such as a picture) on a hollow section of drywall, you might choose to drive in a drywall anchor using a power screwdriver for greater security.[2]
- If you'll be drilling into a stud behind the drywall, opt for a wood drill bit.[3]
- Get a masonry bit if your wall is brick, stone, or concrete. If your wall is made of a hard material, such as brick, block, concrete, or stone, choose a masonry bit.[4] These bits are composed of soft steel with a tip made of tungsten carbide, which allows them to cut easily through hard walls.
- You will probably need to use a drill with hammer action to drive the bit into your wall.
- Choose a spur point bit for wood walls. If you're drilling into a wall with wood paneling, opt for a spur point bit.[5] These are also known as wood bits. They are designed with a sharp point at the tip to help keep the bit on track as it enters the wood.
- Spur point or wood bits are also useful for drilling into studs behind hollow walls.
- Opt for a tile bit for tile, ceramic, or glass. If you're drilling into a brittle material such as tile, ceramic, or glass, you'll need a specialized bit to pierce the material and prevent the wall from shattering.[6] These drill bits have spear-like carbide tips and straight shanks that allow them to cut smoothly through these hard-to-drill materials.
- You may also be able to use a carbide-tipped masonry bit for some types of tile wall.[7]
[Edit]Finding and Marking Your Drilling Spot - Avoid drilling above or below light switches and outlets. Accidentally drilling into your electrical wiring can be a dangerous and costly mistake. You can help prevent mishaps by making sure not to drill directly above or below light switches, outlets, and other obvious electrical fixtures in your walls. If you locate a switch or outlet on an upper floor, try not to drill directly beneath it on the floor below.[8]
- You can also avoid accidents by using a wire detector.[9] A deep scan stud finder can also detect electrical wires and metal.[10]
- If you must drill near live wires, shut off the power to the area where you'll be working beforehand.
- If you're drilling into a bathroom wall or another wall located near plumbing or a radiator, you may wish to consult a plumber first. They can help you avoid accidentally drilling into a pipe.[11]
- Look for studs if you're drilling into drywall. If your wall is sheetrock or plasterboard, you'll need to find a stud if you want your drill hole to support anything heavy (such as a mirror, a large painting, or a shelf).[12] The easiest way to find a stud is to use an electronic stud finder. Turn on the stud finder and move it along the wall until it beeps or flashes a light to indicate that it has found a stud. Move it back and forth so that you can figure out where the outer edges of the stud are located.[13] apart. If you can locate one stud, you can approximate where the studs on either side of it are based on this standardized spacing.}}
- Studs are wooden beams that form the support structure for the walls.
- If you don't have a stud finder, you may be able to locate a stud by knocking on the wall. The areas between studs will have a hollow sound, while the areas over the studs will sound more solid.
- Mark the area where you would like to drill with a pencil. Once you've determined where you want to drill, you'll need to mark the spot. Use a pencil or other marking tool to make a dot or an X over the exact spot where you want to drill your hole.[14]
- If you need to drill 2 or more holes next to each other, use a level to make sure they are properly lined up.
- If you're drilling into tile, ceramic, or glass, mark the spot with an X made of masking tape. This will both mark the spot and keep the drill bit from slipping or chipping the tile when you begin to make your hole.[15]
[Edit]Creating the Hole and Adding a Screw or Anchor - Use masking tape to mark the correct depth on your bit. If you need your hole to be a particular depth (e.g., if you're installing a screw or anchor of a certain length), measure off the appropriate length on your bit. Mark the depth by wrapping a thin strip of masking tape around the drill bit.[16]
- Some drills come with depth gauges to help you mark the appropriate depth.
- If you're putting in a screw or anchor, you'll also need to choose a bit of the appropriate diameter.
- Put on safety goggles and a dust mask before you start drilling. Drilling can produce a lot of dust and debris. To protect your eyes, nose, and lungs, it's important to wear proper safety equipment. Purchase safety goggles and a simple dust mask from a hardware or home supply store before you start your project.[17]
- It's also a good idea to check your that your drill bit is securely in place before you start.[18]
- Place your bit on the point where you'd like to drill and squeeze the trigger. When you're ready to start, position the tip of the drill on the point where you'd like to create your hole. Make sure the bit is level and positioned at a 90° angle relative to the wall.[19] Squeeze the trigger gently to begin turning the bit.
- If you're drilling into drywall, you may find it helpful to make a small indentation with a hammer and countersink before you drill to help guide the bit.[20]
- If you're drilling tile, you will need a lot of patience and firm pressure to get the hole started. You'll feel and hear the difference once the bit breaks through the glaze and starts drilling into the tile underneath.[21]
- Increase the speed of the drill while applying pressure. Once the drill begins to penetrate the wall, squeeze the trigger a little harder and apply firm, steady pressure on the drill to drive it in. Keep drilling until you achieve the desired depth.[22]
- Once you reach the depth you want, don't stop the drill—just slow it down.
- Withdraw the bit with the drill still on when you reach the desired depth. With the drill still running, ease it back out of the hole you just created in one smooth motion. If you stop the drill before you try to pull it out, you may break the bit.[23]
- Make sure to keep the drill level as you pull it out of the hole.
- Tap in your anchor if you're using one. If you're installing a plug or anchor in your drill hole, carefully tap it into the hole with a rubber mallet. Make sure the anchor is securely in place before you install a hook or screw in the hole.[24]
- You will likely need an anchor if you're planning to mount something in drywall, masonry, or tile. You can insert a screw or hook directly into a hole drilled in wood using a screwdriver.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Drywall bit for drilling sheetrock or plasterboard
- Masonry bit for drilling stone, brick, or concrete
- Spur point bit for drilling wood
- Tile bit for drilling ceramic, glass, or tile
- Drill with a hammer action setting
- Wire detector
- Stud finder
- Pencil
- Masking tape
- Safety goggles
- Dust mask
- Anchors or plugs for installing screws in drywall, masonry, or tile
- Rubber mallet
- Hooks or screws
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Choose Succulents Posted: 18 Jun 2021 05:00 PM PDT Succulents are popular with plant-lovers because they're beautiful, unique, and relatively low maintenance. There are more than 10,000 known species in the world, though, so it can be tough to figure out where to start. Don't worry—we've researched the topic thoroughly for you! In this article, we'll focus on 12 popular, easy-to-grow succulents that you might consider for your home. [Edit]Jade plant - Jade plants (Crassula ovata) are super easy to grow! They're happy growing indoors or outdoors, and may get several feet tall over time. For care, just keep your jade plant in full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight daily) and let the soil dry out between waterings.[1]
- Jade plants have stocky stems with thick, glossy green leaves. If you give them plenty of sunlight, the leaves may develop a pretty red color around the edges.
- New owners tend to over-water their jade plants, so make sure the soil is dry to the touch before watering it.[2]
[Edit]Aloe vera - Aloe is a hardy, tolerant succulent that beginners will love. Aloe plants are easy-going, attractive, and practical house plants. To thrive, they prefer bright, indirect light, well-draining soil, and a thorough watering every 2 weeks. If you occasionally forget a watering, your aloe won't mind! It may stop growing temporarily if it doesn't get enough light, but it won't die on you.[3]
- Bonus: the gel inside aloe leaves can be applied topically to soothe irritated skin and mild burns.
[Edit]Burro's tail - Burro's tail grows best in hanging baskets. Sedum morganianum (Burro's tail or Donkey's tail) is a low maintenance succulent with long stems and tiny, green-gray leaves. It looks gorgeous trailing from a hanging basket or dangling over a ledge! It makes an excellent house plant since it's not particularly finicky—it prefers bright light and only needs water when the soil feels dry to the touch.[4]
- Burro's tail rarely blooms, but pink or red flowers sometimes appear at the very end of the stems during the summertime.
- Agave are big, hardy succulents that grow best outdoors. Agave plants can get up to tall so give them plenty of room in a prominent area of your garden. The leaves alone, which are blue-green and blade-like, can grow up to long! Agave thrives in full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight daily) but it won't mind partial shade.[5]
- The foliage has sharp edges so handle your agave plant with care.
[Edit]Dragon's blood - Low-growers like Dragon's blood are great for groundcover. Sedum spurium (Dragon's blood) is a hardy, low-maintenance evergreen that tends to thrive in most climates. If your garden has large, open, sunny areas where nothing seems to grow well, a low-growing succulent might be the perfect solution![6]
- Dragon's blood prefers direct sun and warmer winters, but it can withstand cold temperatures, too.
[Edit]Snake plant - These hardy plants can survive almost anything! If you travel a lot for work, your snake plant won't mind—it can withstand weeks of inadequate light and water conditions without losing its looks. It prefers medium to bright light, though, and does appreciate a little water when the soil feels dry to the touch.[7]
- Snake plants have thick, stiff, pointed leaves that grow straight up. They're also easy to divide and repot if you want more of them.
[Edit]Pink ice plant - Pink ice plants will reward you with bright pink blooms all summer. Pink ice plants (Delosperma cooperi) are great outdoor succulents and make excellent groundcover since they only get about tall. The vibrant pink blooms look gorgeous against the plant's green, smooth-textured leaves. A cluster of them will create a beautiful carpet of color in your garden.[8]
- Pink ice plants prefer bright, direct sunlight, but they'll tolerate light shade.
[Edit]Panda plant - The slow-growing panda plant is happiest near a bright window. Panda plants (Kalanchoe tomentosa) have fuzzy, gray-green leaves covered with soft, silver hairs. They're happiest indoors and can eventually grow to a height of tall, but they tend to grow very slowly. To keep your panda plant happy, place it near a bright window and let the soil dry out between waterings.[9]
- Water your panda plant carefully at the base and avoid getting water on the foliage. Getting the leaves wet can cause them to rot.
[Edit]Baby necklace - These versatile plants can be groundcover or grown in baskets. Baby necklace (Crassula rupestris x perforata) has long, thin stems and disc-shaped, red-tinged leaves. Baby necklace can get up to tall and the trailing stems look lovely creeping across the ground or cascading from a hanging basket. These succulents prefer full sun but are fine with partial shade, too.[10]
- Baby necklace may also reward you with tiny white flowers in late spring!
[Edit]Christmas cactus - Grow this succulent indoors to enjoy its beautiful winter blooms. Don't let the word "cactus" scare you—these plants don't have sharp spines! Christmas cacti (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) have flat, fleshy, green stems that can get up to long. Keep your cactus in a bright window where it gets indirect light and water it whenever the top of soil dries out.[11]
- These succulents usually bloom in early December, which is how they got their name.[12]
[Edit]Zebra hawthoria - Zebra hawthoria are small, easy-going, and low maintenance. Zebra hawthoria (Haworthia fasciata) looks exotic with its striking stripes and spiky foliage, but it's quite popular and very easy to grow indoors. Place it in a bright window where it can get a few hours of indirect sunlight a day and let the soil dry out completely between waterings
- Zebra hawthoria work great in terrariums since they only get about tall.
[Edit]Angelina - Grow Angelina outdoors for lovely yellow blooms in the summer. Angelina (Sedum rupestre) features needle-shaped, fuzzy-looking stalks that are yellow or light green in color. They only get about tall and make interesting groundcover with their cheerful yellow flowers. Angelina can withstand winter temperatures and tend to thrive in full sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight daily).[13]
[Edit]Warnings - Watch out for toxic varieties like Euphorbia lactea (Mottled Spurge), Euphorbia tiruacalli (Firestick, Pencil Cactus), and Kalanchoe tomentosa (Chandelier Plant) if you have pets or kids.
[Edit]References |
| How to Anchor a Swing Set Posted: 18 Jun 2021 09:00 AM PDT When installing any swing set, you should anchor the equipment into the ground to prevent it from flipping over while in use. Concrete anchors are the most secure. Conversely, if you're anchoring a swing set to hard ground, you can also use a 1-piece or 2-piece twist-in anchor. Fortunately, whichever method you use, anchoring a swing set is a relatively straightforward process. [Edit]Anchoring with Concrete - Position the swing set and mark the location of each leg with a shovel. Place the swing set where you intend to permanently install it. Make a small mark in the ground where each leg is with the blade of a shovel. Make this mark on the very edge of each leg so that it is as accurately located as possible.[1]
- Be sure you're confident with the location for your swing set. Once you pour in your concrete anchoring, it will be very difficult to move the set.
- Nearly any type of soft ground (such as dirt or sand) will work for this method, and you can use this method with wooden and metal swing sets.
- Dig holes at each point where you marked the ground with your shovel. Move the swing set out of the way so you can have direct access to each anchor point. Dig each hole to be roughly deep and in diameter.[2]
- For maximum safety, always use 4 anchors to secure all 4 legs of the swing set.
- Drill holes into the sides of each leg of the swing set. Use a drill bit to drill a hole on either side of each leg, oriented horizontally. Drill each hole at least above the bottom of the leg.[3]
- This is technically optional if your swing set has wooden legs, since you may be able to screw in the anchors without pre-drilling a hole. However, it's a much easier process if the legs already have holes in them, especially if they're made of metal.
- Place the plate of a concrete anchor at the bottom side of each leg. Use the materials that came with your anchoring kit for best results. Screw 2 large bolts or screws through each anchoring plate to attach it to its corresponding leg. Slide the bolts into the screw holes of the plate, then use a drill to twist each one into the leg material.[4]
- You can purchase an anchoring kit at most home improvement stores and any store that sells supplies for swing sets.
- Typically, you'll need to use two large bolts or screws to attach each anchoring plate to the corresponding leg.
- Mix a batch of concrete and pour some into each hole. Wait to mix your concrete until just before you're ready to pour it into the ground. Fill each hole nearly full with concrete, so that there is between the concrete and the top of the hole.[5]
- When mixing the concrete, follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding the correct ratio of concrete mix to water. The ideal texture of the finished concrete should be consistent and very thick.
- Continue to the next step while the poured concrete remains wet.
- Place each anchor in the anchoring hole. Carefully position the swing set over each filled anchoring hole and press the bottom of each anchor plate into the concrete. Insert the bottom of the anchor plate deep enough into the hole so that the entire bottom half of the anchor rests below the concrete.[6]
- Be sure that this bottom portion does not stick out of the ground; it could present a safety hazard if it does.
- For best results, have 1 person hold each leg of the swing set as you lower them into the holes to keep the swing at an even level.
- Let the concrete dry, then cover the area beneath the swing. Allow 24 hours for the concrete to fully harden. Then, pack the previously removed soil around the base of each leg and cover the ground area beneath the swing with soft material.[7]
- Note that the total amount of time may vary depending on the concrete formula and current weather conditions. Tap on the concrete to test its hardness before use.
- If you're using wood mulch or shredded bark mulch, cover the ground beneath the set with at least of material. If you're using uniform wood chips, fine sand, or fine gravel, cover the ground with at least .
- For maximum safety, check the swing set once more after covering the area beneath it. Firmly push on each leg of the set. If you anchored the set properly, the pressure should not be enough to cause any leg movement.
[Edit]Using Ground Anchors - Position the set, then hammer stakes into the ground under each leg. Choose the best location for your swing set and temporarily position the set in place. Then, use a hammer to insert a wooden stake into the ground where each leg is positioned. You'll need to hammer each stake in 1 of 2 ways, depending on if you're using a 1-piece anchor or a 2-piece anchor:[8]
- If you're using a 1-piece anchor, simply hammer each stake directly in front of each leg.
- If you're using a 2-piece anchor, insert the wooden stakes into the ground exactly where each leg of the swing set will be. This will require you to have someone move the leg out of the way while you're hammering.
- Remove the stakes and twist each anchor into the holes in the ground. Carefully shift the legs of the set to the sides of each marked hole. Then, twist each ground anchor while applying downward pressure to insert it into the soil at each marked position. Be sure to keep the anchor vertical as you twist it into the ground.[9]
- Make sure that you insert the anchors into solid ground. Packed soils are better than loose soil or sand, while soils containing clay or covered in dense grass are even better.
- If you are unable to twist the anchor with your hands, slide a metal bar through the eye of the anchor and use it as a lever to help rotate the anchor down.
- Attach each leg of the swing set to its corresponding anchor. If you used 1-piece anchors, slide a screw or bolt into the eye of each anchor, then drill the screw directly into the side of the leg near the bottom. If you used 2-piece anchors, place 1 4-by-4 leg attachment at the bottom of each leg. Then, drill this attachment to the leg using 2 bolts, drilling each bolt into the side of the leg.[10]
- The screws or bolts you'll need should come with the anchoring kit.
- You may need to drill the holes with an appropriately sized drill bit before fitting the bolts into the legs, especially when working with metal sets.
- Position the swing set back in place so that the legs sit directly next to each anchor. Use a drill to carefully insert each screw through the eye of the anchor and into the bottom side of each leg.
- Be sure to cover any exposed screws with appropriately sized bolt caps.
- Fit the upper anchor over the ground anchor, if applicable. Line up each leg with each ground anchor, then push the leg attachments onto the revealed ground anchors. Finally, slide a bolt into the corresponding sets of holes on each anchor to secure them to each other. This is only necessary to do if you're using 2-piece anchors.[11]
- Match up the screw holes, when applicable. Drill another bolt through each overlapping pair of holes to secure each leg attachment to its corresponding ground anchor.
- Lay ground covering over the area. Cover the base of each leg with soil or mulch. For added safety, cover the ground beneath the set with additional mulch. After covering the ground, check the swing set by pushing on each leg. If the set does not budge when you apply pressure, you've anchored it successfully.[12]
- Apply roughly of wood mulch or of fine sand or fine gravel as your ground covering.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Anchoring with Concrete - Shovel
- Power drill
- drill bit
- Anchoring kit
- Standard concrete
- Ground covering
[Edit]Using Ground Anchors - Hammer
- Wooden stakes
- 1-piece or 2-piece anchors
- Power drill
- drill bit
- Ground covering
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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