How to Cook Rice with Chicken Broth Posted: 01 Dec 2021 04:00 PM PST Replacing water with chicken broth is one of the easiest ways to boost the flavor of your rice. Choose white or brown rice and decide if you'd like to add any other seasonings to the dish. You can use your preferred cooking method to make the rice with chicken broth. As long as you have the right ratio of broth to the type of rice you're cooking, you can enjoy a delicious side dish. [Edit]Ingredients [Edit]Seasoned White Rice - 1 1/2 cups (286 g) of long-grain white rice
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- of chicken broth
- 1 tablespoon (3 g) of freshly chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
Makes 3 to 5 servings [Edit]Flavorful Brown Rice - of olive oil
- 1 cup (190 g) of long-grain brown rice
- of chicken broth
- of water
- ¼ teaspoon (1 g) of kosher salt
- ¼ cup (5 g) of chopped fresh parsley, optional
Makes 5 servings [Edit]Cooking Seasoned White Rice - Put the white rice, broth, salt, and pepper into a saucepan. Set a saucepan on the stove and put 1 1/2 cups (286 g) of long-grain white rice into it along with of chicken broth. Then, add as much salt and pepper as you like.[1]
- To add a richer flavor, sauté 1 chopped shallot in (28 g) of butter over medium heat before you put the rice in the pan.
- Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Turn the burner up to medium-high so the broth begins to bubble. Keep the lid off of the saucepan so you can see when the broth begins to boil. Then, turn the burner down to medium so it bubbles gently.[2]
- Cover the pan and cook the rice for 15 to 17 minutes. Put a tight-fitting lid on the saucepan and cook the rice without lifting the lid off. This ensures that the rice absorbs the chicken broth and finishes steaming without moisture escaping.[3]
- If there's still broth visible in the pan after 17 minutes, put the lid back on and cook the rice for another 2 to 3 minutes.
- Fluff the rice with a fork and garnish it with fresh parsley. Turn off the burner and remove the lid. If you used thyme or garlic, use tongs or a fork to remove them. Then, fluff the rice with the tines of the fork and sprinkle 1 tablespoon (3 g) of freshly chopped parsley on the rice before serving it.[4]
- Refrigerate leftover rice in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Keep in mind that the rice will dry out the longer it's stored.
[Edit]Preparing Flavorful Brown Rice - Toast the brown rice for 5 minutes if you want it to have a nutty flavor. Pour of olive oil into a saucepan and turn the burner to medium. Carefully tilt the pan so the oil coats the bottom. Then, add 1 cup (190 g) of long-grain brown rice and cook it for 5 minutes to add a rich, nutty flavor.[5]
- Shake the pan occasionally to help the rice toast evenly.
- If you don't want to toast the rice, skip this step.
- Add chicken broth, water, and salt to the pan. Stir in of chicken broth, of water, and ¼ teaspoon (1 g) of kosher salt. If you prefer a much stronger chicken flavor, you could replace the water with more chicken broth.[6]
- Use homemade or storebought chicken broth.
- Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Keep the lid off of the saucepan so you can see when the liquid comes to a vigorous boil. There's no need to stir the mixture at this point.[7]
- Cover the pan and simmer the rice over medium-low for 40 minutes. Put a tight-fitting lid on the saucepan and turn the burner down so the liquid bubbles gently. Cook the rice for 40 minutes without lifting the lid.[8]
- If you lift the lid as the rice is cooking, steam will escape and the rice won't become tender.
- Turn off the burner and let the rice rest for 10 minutes. Once the rice has swollen and absorbed all of the liquid, turn off the burner. Keep the lid on the pan and let the rice sit for 10 minutes.[9]
- The rice will finish cooking as it sits. If you skip this step, your rice might be gummy or sticky.
- Fluff the rice with a fork and scatter parsley over it. Wear oven mitts to remove the lid and break up the rice with the tines of a fork. If you'd like the rice to have a fresher flavor, sprinkle ¼ cup (5 g) of freshly chopped parsley over it before serving.[10]
- Store the leftover rice in an airtight container for up to 4 days.
- If you're using chicken stock or bouillon cubes, dissolve 1 cube in of water. Then, follow your recipe.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Seasoned White Rice - Measuring cups and spoons
- saucepan with a lid
- Spoon
- Fork
- Tongs, optional
[Edit]Flavorful Brown Rice - Measuring cups and spoons
- Saucepan with a lid
- Fork
- Spoon
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Remove a Roku Account from a TV Posted: 01 Dec 2021 08:00 AM PST This wikiHow article will teach you how to remove a Roku account from a TV. If you are the owner of the Roku account on the TV and are getting it ready to be sold, you can simply unlink your account from the TV using a web browser so the new owner doesn't have access to your account. However, if you aren't the account owner (like your roommate that suddenly moved out) or just want to sign in with a different account, performing a factory reset will clear all the personal data from the TV. [Edit]Unlinking Your Account and TV - Go to http://my.roku.com/ and sign in. You can use any web browser on your computer or phone to access this site and unlink your Roku account.
- You'll only be able to use this method if you are the owner of the Roku account.
- Click next to the TV. It's under the "My linked devices" header.[1]
- You'll see a confirmation notification when the TV has been unlinked from your account.
[Edit]Performing a Factory Reset - Turn on your TV and Roku. If it's already on, press the Home key on your remote to navigate Home.
- Go to . Use the down arrow on the directional pad on your remote to navigate to Settings and press the right arrow to enter that menu.
- You'll see Settings at the bottom of the panel on the left side of your screen.
- Select . Press the down arrow on the directional pad on your remote to highlight System, which is near the bottom of the menu. Press the right arrow on the directional pad to enter that menu.
- Select . It's near the bottom of the menu.
- Select and . It's usually the first option in the menu.
- Read the on-screen warnings here so you understand what the consequences are.
- Enter the four-digit code. The code is displayed on the right side of the screen along with a keypad that you can use to enter the digits.
- Select . Your TV might take a minute to perform the factory reset.[2]
- Many Roku TVs or sticks have a reset button on the back or bottom. This may be an actual button you can press or a pinhole button that requires something like a paperclip to press. To factory reset your TV without a remote, press this button for at least 10 seconds with your TV powered on. You'll see the LED or status light blink to indicate when a factory reset is complete.[3]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Fix Christmas Lights Posted: 01 Dec 2021 12:00 AM PST You're not crazy — those lights did work last year. Christmas lights often burn out the moment you unplug them, so the problem often goes unnoticed. There are several ways to repair your lights, depending on the problem and how hands-on you're willing to get. Start by checking for a blown fuse, a common problem with a quick and easy fix. [Edit]Replacing a Blown Fuse - Try this if the entire string goes out. A blown fuse will turn the entire string dark, not just part of it. This often happens when too many strings are connected end-to-end. A fuse can also blow when the wires are accidentally stapled during installation, or when the lights are plugged into a socket with too high a voltage (such as US lights in a UK socket).
- If only some of the lights are dark, skip down to replacing the bulbs instead.
- Open the fuse case. A string of Christmas lights typically has one or two tiny fuses in the plastic box attached to the prongs. Examine the plastic closely on the side of this box and in between the prongs for a cover you can slide or pry open. These often get stuck, so you may need to use some force.[1]
- Do not plug the lights back in at any point during this method.
- Check the fuses. Each fuse should be transparent, with an unbroken wire running through each one. If a fuse is black, or if the wire inside is broken, it needs to be replaced.
- You may need to remove the fuse and hold it up to a bright light to inspect it.
- Pry out the blown fuses. Gently lever the blown fuses out with a thin screwdriver.
- Find an exact replacement. Many Christmas lights are sold with spare fuses for this purpose. If your spares have escaped from the holiday box, take the blown fuses to an electronics store and ask for a replacement. 100-light strings typically use 3A fuses, but it's best to confirm your fuses' rating with a store employee.[2]
- Never use a fuse with a higher rating. This can cause a major fire risk.
- Some LED lights only require one fuse, but keep a second one in the plastic compartment as a spare.[3] If there's a fuse that's not attached to any wires, just transfer it over to the other slot.
- Put in the new fuses. Pop the new fuses into the slots and close the plastic cover. Plug the light bulbs in to see if this has fixed the problem.
- If the lights still won't come on, try a different outlet in case you blew a house fuse or circuit. If that doesn't work, keep reading for other solutions.
[Edit]Finding the Dead Bulb (Storebought Tools) - Buy a christmas light repair tool. Most of these tools include everything you need to find and replace the bad bulb: a continuity detector, piezoelectric sparker (shunt repairer), and light bulb removal tool. It costs roughly $20 US, so this may not be worth it if you only have a couple strings of lights. If you prefer to avoid buying such a specialized device, try the following alternatives:
- Get a non contact voltage detector and skip down to tracing the dead bulb. Alternatively, buy a cheaper light bulb tester without the other features.
- Tackle the project hands-on with a homemade tool.
- Use the spark function on your repair tool. Christmas lights are connected in series, meaning the whole string will go dark when one bulb fails. A failsafe called a shunt in each bulb is supposed to prevent this by closing the gap across the burnt-out bulb, but these often don't work properly. (In regions on 230V mains rather than 110V, the shunt usually does its job.) The sparker function on your repair tool will zap the shunt, hopefully succeeding in closing the gap:
- Plug the string of lights into the socket on the repair tool.
- Press the button (or pull the trigger, depending on the model) about 20 times.[4] You should hear a click each time.
- Plug the string of lights into a normal outlet. If the string is still dark, continue to the next step. If the string lights up except for one or two bulbs, skip down to replacing individual bulbs.
- Trace the location of the dead bulb. If the string of lights still won't light up, move on to the detector. This detects the current running through the wires, so you can identify the point where it fails.[5] Here's how:
- Tug apart the braided wires to identify the one directly connected to the light bulbs.
- Place the detector on this wire about halfway along the string, between two bulbs. (If your tool has a small hole for a detector, place a light bulb into the hole instead.[6])
- If the tool hums or lights up (depending on model), the problem is in the half of the string farthest from the plug. If there is no hum or light, the problem is in the half closest to the plug.
- Move the tool to the middle of the problem area and test again, narrowing it down to ¼ of the string.
- Repeat until you find a bulb with current on one side of it and no current on the other. Mark this bulb with tape so you don't lose track, then replace this bulb as described below.
[Edit]Finding the Dead Bulb (DIY) - Understand the goal. Each Christmas light bulb has a "shunt" that is supposed to close the gap when the bulb burns out. This often fails, but a small surge of current can trigger this and put your lights back on.[7] This will not work every time, especially with this DIY approach. If you're looking for quick results, try the methods above instead.
- Find a lighter operated by button. This type of lighter has a piezoelectric crystal which creates a spark when pressed. Do not use the type with a metal wheel, which creates the spark through friction.
- Empty the lighter of fuel. If the lighter is disposable, just burn the fuel away. If the lighter is refillable, transfer the lighter fluid to another lighter, or to a sealed, clearly labeled fire-proof container.
- Never dispose of lighter fluid in a drain or in household trash.
- Remove the piezo igniter. Pry apart the plastic cover, then lift out the igniter with a pair of needle nose pliers.[8] The piezo igniter includes a button, and two tiny metal or plastic prongs. When the button is pressed, a spark jumps between these prongs.
- The spark is not dangerous, but it will give you a mild electric shock. More importantly, it could ignite fumes and light a small flame. Work over a nonflammable surface and keep your fingers and face away from the sparker during removal.
- Zap the prongs of the light string. Position the two prongs of the sparker against the two prongs of the Christmas light plug. Push the button about 10–20 times. You should hear a click and see a spark each time.
- If it's too hard to line up the prongs, connect them with insulated wires.
- Plug in your lights. If all went well, the lights should now light up. There will be one or two dead bulbs, which should be replaced as described below. Leaving the dead bulbs on will cause the other bulbs to burn out sooner.
[Edit]Replacing Individual Bulbs - Twist the light bulb to check the connection. This is rarely the problem, but it only takes a second to check. Twist the light bulb gently to tighten it in position. If the bulb moved noticeably, plug in the lights and see if a loose connection was causing the issue. Assuming the bulb is still out, continue to the next step.
- If you have many lights, buy a string of bulbs of the same brand and type. Keep it in storage and twist off the bulbs to use as replacements when you need them.
- Purchase replacement bulbs. If you don't have any replacements, take along the burnt-out bulbs to a hardware store, pharmacy, or home improvement store. Look for bulbs that match as closely as possible. Ideally, check the packaging your lights came in to see what type of bulb is needed.
- Some bulbs are flashers, and when installed, will cause lights to flash on and off. There is no need to have two flashers on the same circuit, as they may cause unusual on / off timings.
- Remove each of the blown-out Christmas light bulbs. Use your thumb and index finger to delicately put pressure on each of the broken light's plastic base, to remove the fragile bulbs. If you have a Christmas light repair tool, it may come with a small grip for this purpose.
- In order to remove a broken Christmas bulb from its socket, find the two copper wires that sit on the base of the old bulb, noting their position on the base.
- Push both of the copper wires down, so that they are pointing towards your floor, and the bulb is pointing towards the ceiling.
- Pull upward on the bulb, and it should now be separated from the light's base.
- Insert the replacement bulb into the old bulb's socket. Make sure the two copper wires are completely aligned with the holes in the bulb's base. Once the bulb is fully seated in the base, fold the copper wires against the base in the same position as noted above. Plug in your lights and watch them glow.
- If you used a continuity/voltage detector tool, and your lights still won't turn on, use the tool again. There may be a second burned-out bulb. These tools can only detect one burned out bulb at a time.
- Remove broken sockets. If a new bulb still won't light up, your socket may be corroded or the wire may be damaged nearby. Removing this is not as difficult as it sounds, although each bulb you remove will cause the remaining bulbs to burn more brightly and therefore burn out sooner though removing one or two bulbs should be fine. (Note that a damaged wire or a repair using this method, unless done well, may present an electric shock or fire hazard. If you don't feel comfortable removing light bulb sockets, then you can just leave a light bulb in the socket or cover it with electric tape to prevent an electric shock.) Follow this method:
- Unplug the lights.
- Using wire cutters, cut the wire on either side of the broken socket. (Do not cut the other two wires.)
- With a wire stripper, strip about ½ inch (1.25cm) of insulation from each cut end.
- Twist the two strands of wire together.
- Get a twist connector from an electronics store (a small conical cap). Twist this over the wire, holding it in place.
- Replace all burnt out lamps in the comfort of your living room before hanging outside.
- Every year when taking out your lights for reuse, always inspect light strings for damage before connecting to power. Do this under good light conditions so that you can easily see frayed cords, burnt out bulbs, bad connections, etc. Be alert for any chewing of cords that may have taken place during storage.
- Before discarding a damaged string, remove working bulbs to use as spares.
- Replacement Christmas lights are much cheaper right after the winter holidays.
[Edit]Warnings - Hang sections of lights while they are disconnected from a power source, and briefly check periodically as you go to prevent accidental shock.
- Use light strings outdoors only if they are labeled for Outdoor or Indoor/Outdoor use.
- If a cord has damaged insulation with visible copper wire, do not use the lights.
- Electrical outlets on the exterior of homes should have weatherproof bubble-like covers that prevent water from entering even while a cord is connected.
- The National Electrical Code (USA) prohibits any holiday lighting to remain in place for more than 90 consecutive days. State and local codes however, may modify the length of time allowed.
- Use non-conductive supports designed for light strings to prevent accidental energizing of metal gutters, downspouts, railings, trim, etc.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Fuse Replacement - Screwdriver
- Replacement fuses
[Edit]Finding the Dead Bulb - Christmas tree repair tool or non-contact voltage detector
[Edit]Light Bulb Replacement - Replacement bulbs
- Rarely:
- Wire cutters
- Wire strippers
- Twist connectors
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Recover from Jet Lag from Europe Posted: 30 Nov 2021 04:00 PM PST Traveling to Europe and back is certainly an adventure, but flying across several time zones can lead to jet lag, leaving you feeling foggy and fatigued. So how can you make the most of your European vacation and quickly get back on schedule when you return home? There are actually tons of things you can do before you leave, on the plane, once you arrive, and once you get back home so you don't end up feeling like a zombie. We've done the research for you and have listed the best tips and tricks for beating jet lag below. [Edit]Go to bed early in the days leading up to your flight. - Unfortunately, jet lag is worse when you're traveling east. To help mitigate some of the issues connected to jet lag, adjust your sleep schedule before you leave. Go to bed 1-2 hours earlier than you normally would to help yourself adapt to the local time zone.[1]
[Edit]Adjust your mealtimes to better match the time zone you'll be in. - Stomach upset is a common jet lag complaint, but you can prepare ahead of time.[2] If you're traveling from the U.S. to Europe, try eating your meals a few hours earlier than you normally would. This can help your body adapt to the local time zone, and meal schedule, more easily.
- You can do the same thing before you head back home. Eat your meals a little later than you normally would to help yourself adapt to your regular time zone at home.
- Stick with foods you know and like. Now's not the time to try out a new Tex Mex fusion restaurant or eat spicy curry for the first time.[3]
[Edit]Stay hydrated and eat well on the plane. - Long flights often cause dehydration, which can make jet lag worse. Drink plenty of water during your flights to help your body stay in tip-top shape. Eat healthy meals and snack on fruits and veggies to avoid digestive problems associated with jet lag. Steer clear of heavy, fatty foods or calorie-rich snacks.[4]
- Avoid alcohol and caffeine, both of which are stimulants and can further disrupt your sleep patterns.[5]
- Keep drinking lots of water once you arrive in Europe as well as when you get back home—it'll help stave off that dreaded jet lag.
[Edit]Move around and stretch when you can. - Take advantage of times when that seat belt sign is off. Sitting for the entire flight can make you feel sluggish, and also increases your risk of blood clots. Take time to stretch, stand, and walk about the cabin when it's safe to do so.[6]
- Getting a little movement in can give you more energy, too!
[Edit]Sleep on the plane if your flight is at night in the local time zone. - To adapt to the local time, sleep when it's nighttime in your destination city. This might be tough if it's mid-day in your local time zone, but hey, there's no better way to pass the time on a plane than by sleeping![7] Wear comfy clothes, take off your shoes, and curl up with a blanket and pillow. You can even put on an eye mask and noise-canceling headphones to help you block out your surroundings.
- Skip the in-flight movie and resist the urge to scroll social media—blue light can disrupt your sleep, so avoid screentime if you're hoping to nap in-flight.
- If you can, book your flight so it lands in the afternoon, local time, to help mitigate jet lag.[8]
[Edit]Adapt to the local time as soon as you land. - Change your watch and take your meals at the normal time for your destination. The best way to beat jet lag is to adjust to the local time zone as soon as you can.[9] Most overseas flights will deposit you in Europe in the morning, so ignore the fact that it's probably 2 am back home. Follow the local time zone and take your meals and sleep when locals do.[10]
- The same is true for your return trip. Eat your meals and go to bed at a reasonable hour in your local time zone to beat jet lag faster.
[Edit]Do something active outdoors to reset your circadian rhythm. - Getting outside and doing some light exercise during the day can help your body adapt. Spend some time in the sun, especially in the morning, to help your body recognize the local time zone.[11] Some light exercise like walking, especially during the daytime, can help your body adjust its circadian rhythm so you sleep better at night.[12]
- It might help to book a particularly exciting tour or adventure for a few hours after you land in Europe. This will give you an incentive to stay awake and give you something to look forward to—it's a win-win!
[Edit]Stay awake until it's nighttime if you can. - Resist the temptation to crash when you arrive at your destination. Going to sleep when it's daytime won't help you beat jet lag or adjust to the local time. As hard as it might be, do your best to stay awake until a reasonable bedtime hour in the city you're in.[13] Hopefully, you'll awake the next morning feeling refreshed and ready to go![14]
[Edit]Take a power nap if you must. - A 15- to 20-minute nap can help you get through the rest of the day. If you're feeling super sluggish and need to rest, it's okay to lie down for a bit. Just don't sleep for too long, or you'll end up being even more tired. Keep your nap to 20 minutes or less so you don't further disrupt your nighttime sleep patterns.[15]
[Edit]Take melatonin or a sleeping pill before you go to bed. - Traveling across time zones can make it hard to fall asleep, and medication can help. When it gets dark in your destination, take 0.5 mg or less of a short-acting melatonin supplement. If you need something a bit stronger, ask your doctor to prescribe a sleep medication. You can take it at night for the first 3 days you're in a different time zone to help combat jet lag.[16]
- Before you take any supplement or medication, talk to your doctor to make sure it's safe for you and won't interact with any medications you're on or health conditions you have.
- Some common medications that doctors prescribe for jet lag include Restoril (temazepam), Ambien (zolpidem), and Imovane (zopiclone). It's best to take a low dose and limit it to just a few days.[17]
[Edit]Get up early the next morning. - Set your alarm for no later than 9 am local time. While you might be exhausted and tempted to sleep in late, you won't be doing yourself any favors. To get your body's circadian rhythm adjusted to a new location, you've got to follow the local time zone. Plus, getting up early on your first full day in Europe means you'll have an easier time going to bed that night. By the second day, you should be fully acclimated to European time![18]
- The same is true for your return trip! Get up early the day after you arrive home to better adjust to the local time.
- If you're traveling to Europe for an important event, arrive 2 days early to give yourself a chance to adjust to the new time zone.[19]
[Edit]References |
How to Identify Flying Insects Posted: 30 Nov 2021 08:00 AM PST What's that bug flying around your house? Is it dangerous or just a nuisance? Whether you've got a pest problem or just want to learn how to tell apart commonly confused insects, we've put together a guide on the most common flying insects you'll see. There are 25 orders of flying insects, and within the largest orders, the bugs can look really different (bees and ants are technically in the same order!).[1] To make things easier, we'll first cover how to identify specific insects you're likely to see around your home or garden. Then we'll go over a few of the less-common insect orders so you can identify flying insects like a true entomologist. [Edit]House Flies - House flies have distinctive wide-set, reddish eyes. Look for insects 6-7mm long with grayish or yellowish abdomens. If you can see one up close, check their thorax (midsection) for 4 black stripes and dark markings on their sides.[2]
- All flies are part of the order Diptera.[3]
- While flies don't bite, they can transmit pathogens by excreting onto human skin or food.
- If you see flying insects at night, it's unlikely you're dealing with house flies. House flies tend to be inactive at night.[4]
- House flies are drawn to manure, human excrement, garbage, and kitchen waste.[5]
- Get rid of house flies by maintaining proper sanitation and using fly traps.
[Edit]Drain Flies - Drain flies are between 2-5mm and have moth-like wings. Their bodies are round and fuzzy. However, the easiest way to identify them is to look for flies hanging around stagnant water. While these insects aren't harmful to humans, they can produce 300 eggs in 48 hours and create nests that block your drains.[6]
- Check for drain flies by sealing off a drain with duct tape. The flies will try to come to the surface and get stuck.
- Create an apple cider vinegar trap to easily catch drain flies, fruit flies, and fungus gnats.
[Edit]Fruit Flies - Fruit flies are tiny, with red or dark eyes. They're typically around 2-5mm long. You can really identify fruit flies by their behavior–they'll hover around fruit and vegetables in your home. These little flies lay their larvae inside fruit, because their larvae feed on yeast from fermenting plants and ripening fruit. In other words, they feed on gross, decaying material![7]
- Fruit flies can be beige, tan, gray, or black.
- Worldwide, there are over 4,000 species of fruit flies, and they can vary widely in appearance.[8]
- The best way to get rid of fruit flies is to wash fruits and vegetables and store them in a cool, dry place.
- Throw away or compost overripe fruit and take out your kitchen garbage frequently.[9]
[Edit]Fungus Gnats - Fungus gnats are grayish-black with gray or see-through wings. However, you'll likely be able to identify them better by their behavior–they like to hover around your houseplants. You might easily confuse fungus gnats with fruit flies, but fungus gnats have a thinner body with longer legs and longer antennae. They are also erratic, slow fliers who tend to spend time walking on soil to take a break from flying.[10]
- These pesky insects cause damage that looks similar to root rot. If you see lots of yellow leaves on your plants, look out for these insects!
- Avoid overwatering your houseplant soil to prevent fungus gnats.
- Fungus gnats may lay eggs in the drainage holes of your pots. If you suspect an infestation, start covering the drainage holes with synthetic fabric to limit the gnats' access to the hole.
- Fungus gnats are harmless to humans.
[Edit]White Flies - White flies are easily identifiable because of their white wings. They might have solid white colored wings or black bands on white wings. The three most common species are bandedwinged whiteflies (with stripes on their wings), sweetpotato whiteflies, and greenhouse whiteflies.[11]
- These common garden pests feed on sap and can transmit disease to your plants.
- They can also infest your plants by producing honeydew, which in turn attracts black mold.
- From above, greenhouse whiteflies look triangular when they land, since they hold their wings flat.
- Sweetpotato whiteflies look like grains of rice when they land, since they hold their wings at a tentlike angle. This species tends to transmit the most viruses to plants.
- To prevent whiteflies, inspect new plants you buy with a magnifying glass and look for tiny larvae. Frequently remove dead and dying plant material.
- To eliminate whiteflies, try chemical pesticides or biological control (bringing in a parasitoid species that will kill the whiteflies) with insects like Encarsia formosa or Eretmocerus eremicus.
[Edit]Mosquitoes - Mosquitoes have long, teardrop-shaped wings and featherlike antennae. They have brown or black stripes. You can spot the stripes on their abdomen, legs, and/or wings. Like flies, they're part of the order Diptera.[12]
- Male mosquitoes eat a variety of plant-based food including sap, nectar, and fruit while female mosquitoes seek out blood.
- Prevent mosquitoes by removing standing water outside, using screens on windows and doors, and using insect repellent.[13]
- Certain species of gnats might look like mosquitoes, but gnats hold themselves parallel to the surface they rest on. In contrast, mosquitoes raise their bodies up with their tails in the air.[14]
- Bees have fuzzy bodies with gold and black markings. They're part of the order Hymenoptera (which also contains wasps, hornets, and ants). You can distinguish Hymenoptera insects by the thin "waist" between their thorax (midsection) and lower abdomen. Hymenoptera insects also have antennae that are usually longer than their heads![15]
- If you're stung by a bee, the bee will imbed the stinger in your skin and it will die.[16]
- Bees live in hives made of wax (honeycomb).
- There are almost 20,000 known varieties of bees.
- Bees are beneficial to humans and the ecosystem since they're excellent pollinators. If you have a bee problem, contact a professional to safely remove them.
[Edit]Hornets - Hornets can have red, yellow, and orange markings. They're larger and fatter than wasps and can grow up to ! Hornets can sting repeatedly since they won't die after they sting. Fortunately, they usually won't sting unless provoked.[17]
- If you see a hornet with black and white markings, it might be a bald-faced hornet (also called a paper wasp).[18]
- Hornets build basketball-sized nests made from chewed-up wood pulp with a paperlike texture. It's best to let a professional remove these nests.
- Hornet stings are more painful than bee or wasp stings because they contain venom.
- Wasps have distinct yellow and black rings. Like hornets, they have a narrow abdomen and waist. However, wasp markings are brighter and more distinct than the muted colors of hornet markings.[19]
- Like hornets, wasps can sting multiple times.
- Wasp nests are also made from chewed-up wood pulp.
- Wasps are about ⅓ in. (.8 cm) to 1 in. (2.5 cm) long.[20]
[Edit]Beetles/Weevils - Beetles have hardened wings that meet in a straight line down their backs. They're part of the insect order Coleoptera. Beetles have mandibulate mouthparts, meaning you'll be able to see prominent jaw parts they use to chew their food.[21]
- Some common species of beetles like the ground beetle and longhorned beetle are nocturnal.[22]
- There are over 23,700 types of beetles and Coleoptera is the largest order of insects present in the U.S.[23]
[Edit]Dragonflies and Damselflies - These insects have large eyes, narrow antennae, and transparent wings. They're part of the Odonata order. Both dragonflies and damselflies have a notch in the center of each wing, called a nodus. However, in dragonflies, the rear wing is broader than the front one. Damselfly front and back wings are of a similar size.[24]
- Dragonflies are faster than damselflies due to their asymmetrical wing design.
[Edit]Butterflies and Moths - Butterflies and moths have long bodies, broad wings, and often come in bright colors. These insects belong to the order Lepidoptera, which has over 160,000 different species, with the majority being moths.[25] Wondering how to tell the difference between butterflies and moths? Butterflies have club shaped antennae whereas moths have saw-edged or feathery-looking antennae.[26]
- Moths are typically nocturnal.
- It's a common misconception that touching a butterfly's wings will make it unable to fly. The powder that comes off is actually made up of tiny scales.
- The butterfly will shed those scales periodically throughout its lifetime.
[Edit]Lacewings - Lacewings have delicate veined wings, big eyes, and cylindrical bodies. Specifically, look out for four membranous wings. The front and back wings might be the same size, but some species might have larger back wings. Lacewings are part of the order Neuropterida.[27]
- Neuropterida species will hold their wings like a tent behind their body.[28]
[Edit]Cicadas, True Hoppers, and Aphids - Identify these insects by their leathery exteriors and beaklike mouthparts. Even though they look different, cicadas, hoppers, and aphids are part of the broad order Hemiptera. Most insects in the order Hemiptera will look dorsoventrally flattened (meaning, they look relatively squished and flat when you view them from the side).[29]
- Cicadas have membranous wings whereas true hoppers have leathery wings.
- Aphids fall into a suborder of plant parasite insects called Sternorrhyncha.
[Edit]Grasshoppers and Crickets - Check for thickened front wings and huge hind legs. Grasshoppers, crickets, and katydids (members of the order Orthoptera) are built for jumping. Their tarsi (or legs) are segmented into 3-4 parts.[30]
- Crickets have long antennae while grasshoppers have short antennae.[31]
- Crickets "sing" by rubbing their wings together. Grasshoppers "sing" by rubbing their hind legs against their wings.
[Edit]References |
How to Set up and Play the Game of Life Posted: 30 Nov 2021 12:00 AM PST The Game of Life allows you to live out an entire life on a game board: getting a job, starting a family, and (if you're lucky) retiring as a millionaire. The most recent edition is easy to set up, can be played by 2-4 players, and is the only version that adds pets to your life story. There are many older editions of the game too. These take a little more set up before your first time playing, but they let you squeeze up to 6 players in one game. [Edit]Latest Edition (2017): Set Up - Punch the pegs out of the plastic frame. If you have a brand new set, the plastic pegs come in a rectangular frame. Punch these out carefully. There are 24 pink and blue "people" pegs and 12 smaller, green "pet" pegs.[1]
- If there are any sharp bits of plastic clinging to the pegs, shave them down with sandpaper or an emery board.
- Put the spinner in the empty corner of the board. Unfold the game board. Put the plastic spinner wheel on top of the blue sky corner of the board, between the paths marked "College Path" and "Career Path".[2]
- Shuffle and separate the five decks. The backs of the cards are labeled House, Action, Career, College Career, and Pet. Separate these, shuffle them, and put them face down next to the game board.[3]
- Give each player their starting pieces. Each player starts with:
- 1 plastic car
- 1 flat, circular token the same color as their car
- 1 large "person" peg (all pegs fit into the holes in your car)
- 1 small "pet" peg (give your pet a name!)
- 200K of paper money
- Choose a banker. One player gets to be the banker. They're in charge of giving players their salary and bank loans. It's helpful for the banker to sit near the spinner, so they can store the bank's money in the attached plastic compartment.
- The banker is still a player, and keeps their own money separate from the bank's stash.
- Have each player choose Career or College. Your car can start next to either of the two arrows on the plastic spinner (between the wheel and the money compartment).[4] Each path has its advantages:
- If you pick Career, look at the top two cards of the Career deck. Pick one to put face up in front of you, and put the other on the bottom of the deck. You start on the shorter path and will start earning money sooner.
- If you pick College, pay the bank $100K. You start on the longer path and don't have a career yet, but you'll have a better chance at a high-paying job later.
[Edit]Latest Edition (2017): Gameplay - Spin the spinner and move that many squares. The youngest player goes first, then play continues left (clockwise) around the table. Each turn starts with one spin to see how many squares you move.
- Read your Career card for special "bonus number" instructions. Other players have to pay you a certain amount of money if their spin lands on your bonus number.[5]
- Draw an Action card when you land on Gold. When you land on a yellow square with a faint circle image on it, draw the top card of the Action deck. Read it aloud and do what it says.[6]
- Keep the card—it's worth money at the end of the game.
- Draw a Pet card when you land on the pink paw. Read the card aloud and follow its instructions.
- Keep the card next to you after you're done, since it's worth money at the end of the game.
- Play the Spin to Win minigame when you land on the spinner. Each player puts their circular token next to a number on the "Spin to Win" image in the corner of the board. The player whose turn it is takes the extra, silver token out of the box and chooses a second number. Spin the spinner until it points to a number someone has chosen. That player wins $200K from the bank.[7]
- Add pegs to your car when you land on Baby squares. Add one pink or blue peg to your car if the square says "Baby". Add two if it says "Twins". (Each baby is worth 50K at the end of the game.)[8]
- Collect salary when you pass a Payday square. Unlike most squares, you don't have to land exactly on a green Payday square. Whenever you pass one, collect the salary listed on your Career card.[9]
- When you land exactly on a Payday square, collect your salary plus a 100K bonus!
- Buy and sell houses on a House square. When you land on these squares, you have three options:[10]
- You can choose to do nothing.
- You can buy a house: Draw two cards from the House deck. Pick one to keep, pay the bank the price listed on the card, and put the second card on the bottom of the deck.
- You can choose one of your houses to sell, if you have one: Spin the spinner, and look at the inner circle to see if it landed on red or black. Collect the amount of money listed on your House card next to that color. Put that House card on the bottom of the deck.
- Stop moving when you hit a STOP square. Even if you have extra moves left, your piece stops here. Follow the special instructions for the STOP square you're on:[11]
- Graduation: Look at the top two College Career cards, pick one to put in front of you, and put the other on the bottom of the deck. Spin and move again.
- Get Married: Add a blue or pink peg (your spouse) to your car. Spin and look at the inner circle: if it's red, everyone gives you 50K each; if it's black, everyone gives you 100K. Spin and move again.
- Night School: You can choose to pay the bank 100K, draw the top card of the College Career deck, and (if you want) replace your old Career with the new card. Spin again and move on the Night School path. Or you can choose to not pay anything, spin again, and move on the Life path.
- Family: Spin again and move onto either the Family path (if you want kids) or the Life path (if you don't).
- Spin for babies: Follow the instructions on the square, add that many people pegs to your car, then spin and move again.
- Risky/Safe: Spin and move again onto either path. The Risky road has some squares with special instructions that can make or lose you money.[12]
- Get a bank loan if you run out of money. If you don't have enough money to buy something or pay a debt, ask for a loan. The banker gives you the amount you need from the bank's supply, plus one bank loan certificate for every 50K you borrow. Each bank loan certificate takes away 60K from your final score.[13]
- Retire at the end of the game. Unlike earlier versions of the game, the two end spaces ("Millionaire's Mansion" and "Countryside Acres") are there just for fun; it doesn't matter which you pick. You do get a bonus for retiring first, though:[14]
- The first to retire gets 400K.
- The second gets 300K.
- The third gets 200K.
- The fourth gets 100K.
- Count money at the end of the game to see who wins. Once everyone has gone through the whole board and retired, whoever has the most money wins. But before you count, there are a few extra steps that will change your score:[15]
- Sell your Houses by spinning the wheel for each one and looking at the inner wheel color (red or black). You get the amount of money listed on your House card next to that color.
- Get 100K for each Action card and each Pet card.
- Get 50K for each baby you have.
- Lose 60K for each bank loan certificate you have.
[Edit]Older Editions: Board Assembly - Punch out game board pieces and the cardboard slots on the game board. The Game of Life comes with many cardboard parts that you will need to punch out and attach to the board. It also comes with some plastic pieces that you will need to attach to the board in the correct places.[16]
- Put stickers on the mountain and bridge pieces. Your Game of Life set should have stickers for the mountain and bridge pieces. Put these stickers on the mountain and bridge pieces before you attach them to the game board.[17]
- Attach the game parts to the board. Before you start playing, you will need to assemble the board. Attach the buildings, mountains, and bridges to the correct places on the board. Each plastic piece has a letter on it that matches up with a letter on the board.[18]
- Match the letter piece with the correct letter on the board. For example, the "J" piece should go into the "J" slot.
- Assemble and attach the spinner. The Game of Life uses a spinner instead of dice. You will need to put this spinner together and attach it to the board before you play your first game. Punch out the cardboard spinner and match the notches up with the notches on the plastic spinner dial. Then, snap the two pieces together.[19]
- Next attach the spinner dial to the spinner base. The spinner base should have a letter on it that corresponds to the letter on the board. Snap the assembled spinner into place on the board.
[Edit]Older Editions: Set Up - Place the Life tiles somewhere near the board. Make sure that they are all facing down. Mix them up and leave them next to the board to act as the draw pile. Take four tiles without looking at them and place them on the Millionaire Estates space.[20]
- Separate, shuffle, and stack the cards. The four types of cards are Career Cards, Salary Cards, House Deeds, and Stocks. Make sure that you keep each type of card separate and then shuffle each stack. Place the stacks face-down somewhere next to the board where everyone can reach them.[21]
- Find the Automobile Insurance Policies, Homeowner's Insurance Policies, Stocks, and Bank Loans. Place these items somewhere near the board. Players will purchase and borrow these items throughout the game, so you will want to have them somewhere that is easy to access. Select a spot right next to the game board to keep these items for when they are needed.[22]
- Select someone to be the Banker. The Banker is in charge of all money going into and out of the bank. Make sure the person who decides to be the Banker is aware that he/she will need to collect and distribute money throughout the game. The Banker will need to distribute $10,000 in Life money to each player.[23]
- Have everyone choose a car and people peg. The Game of Life comes with six car movers in different colors as well as people pegs that go in the cars. Make sure that every player chooses a car and puts a peg into it before placing that peg on the board.[24]
[Edit]Older Editions: Gameplay - Decide if you want to start a career or go to college. Before your first turn, you will need to decide if you want to start the game with a career card or start the game by going to college. There are advantages and disadvantages to both options.[25]
- The advantages of starting your career right away is that you will start earning PAY DAY money sooner and you will not have any debt. The disadvantages of starting your career right away is that you will not earn as much money and there are some career cards that you may not take.
- The advantage of going to college is that you will earn more when you do get a career card. The disadvantage of going to college is that you will have $40,000 in debt and it will take you longer to get your career card.
- Draw a Career Card right away if you decide to start a career. If you choose to start a career, then you will need to choose a career card right away. Discard any career cards that indicate that a college degree is required, such as the doctor career card.[26]
- Place your car on the Start College space if you decided to start college. If you are going to start college, then you will need to place your car on the start college space. You may not draw a career card yet. You may draw a career card when you reach the Job Search space.[27]
- Spin the wheel. Each play will need to spin the wheel at the beginning of every turn. The number that you spin will indicate how many spaces you may move your car on the board. You may only move your car forward, not backwards on the board.[28]
- Observe the instructions for different space colors. The Game of Life board is very colorful and each space has different instructions that you will need to read and follow. Take some time to review the basic instructions for the space colors so that you will know what your options are.[29]
- Orange spaces have instructions written on them that you must follow.
- Blue spaces have instructions on them that you may decide to follow or not follow.
- Green spaces are PAY DAY spaces. Collect the amount shown on your PAY DAY card whenever you pass or land on a green space.
- Red spaces require you to stop moving, even if you have enough moves left to go past a red space. You have to stop whenever you encounter a red space. Follow the instructions on the space, then spin and move again.
- Pay if you land on a career space that someone or no one owns. The career spaces on the board match the available career cards. If one of your opponents owns the card, then you need to pay that opponent the amount shown on the card.[30]
- If you own the career card, then you do not have to pay anything.
- If no one owns the career card, then you need to pay the amount indicated on the space to the bank.
- Give $5,000 to the person with the police officer career card if you spin a 10. This rule is known as the Special Police Officer Rule. If someone spins a 10, then that person is said to have been "speeding" and must pay whoever has the Police Officer career card $5,000. If no one has the card, then no one has to pay.[31]
- Pay $5,000 to the accountant if you land on the "Taxes" space. The accountant gets an extra space on the board which is called the Taxes space. If you land on this space, then you need to pay $5,000 to whoever has the accountant career card.[32]
- If no one has this card, then pay $5,000 to the bank.
- If you have the card, then you pay nothing.
- Decide if you want to take out an automobile insurance policy or homeowner's insurance policy. You may choose to purchase an insurance policy at the beginning of one of your turns. These policies will offer some protection for your home or car (depending on which one you buy) in case of an accident.[33]
- Auto insurance costs $10,000, but the homeowner's insurance policies depend on the home that you own. You can find the cost of a homeowner's insurance policy on your deed card.
- Buy stocks. You may buy a stock card at the beginning of one of your turns. A stock card costs $50,000, but if someone spins and lands on the number on your card, then you collect $10,000 from the bank. This rule applies whether you are spinning or someone else is spinning.[34]
- You may only buy one stock card, but you may get another stock card if you land on the Stock Market Zooms space.
- Take out a bank loan if you need it. If you are running low on cash, then you may take out a bank loan of $20,000 at the beginning of one of your turns. Keep in mind that you will have to repay this amount to the bank when you retire plus an extra $5,000 in interest.[35]
[Edit]Older Editions: Winning - Stop moving when you reach the Retire space. When you have reached the Retire space, you may not spin the wheel any more or draw cards, or purchase things. This space indicates that you are near the end of the game. However, getting to the Retire space first does not mean you have won the game.[36]
- Repay your loans plus any interest you owe. The first thing you will need to do when you hit the Retire space is to repay any loans you have taken out plus the interest that you owe. Put this money back into the bank.[37]
- Discard your Career Card, Salary Card, Insurance Policies, and House Deed. Next, get rid of all of your special cards, but you may keep your stocks. If you are ahead of your opponents, then you can continue to collect money from your stocks when your opponents spin the wheel.[38]
- Move your car to Millionaire Estates OR Countryside Acres. Move to Millionaire Estates if you think that you have the most money. Keep in mind that if you do move to Millionaire Estates, you stand a chance to collect four additional Life tiles that may help you win the game. But other players may draw from this pile if the draw deck is empty.[39]
- If you move to Countryside Acres, collect one Life tile. No one may take this Life tile from you and you may include it in your cash total at the end of the game.
- Have all of the players at Millionaire Estates count up their money. The player with the most money gets the last four life tiles that are on the Millionaire Estates space. Then, all of the players (including those at Countryside Acres) should add the cash amounts on their Life tiles with the money they have on hand. The player with the most money is the winner![40]
- Try to experiment with different strategies (starting a career vs. starting college first) when you play the game to see what seems to give you a better advantage.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Store Ginger Posted: 29 Nov 2021 04:00 PM PST Ginger can be enjoyed as a delicacy or a spice, or it can even be used for medicinal purposes, such as easing the pain of stomach ache. Ginger is commonly used in savory stir-fry dishes, in sweets like gingersnaps, and even in cocktails like the Moscow Mule. Ginger is a delicious root, but the problem is that it's hard to use the ginger from one root at once, which leads to the problem of storing it. If you want your ginger to last a few weeks -- or even a few months -- then you need to know how to store ginger in the freezer and refrigerator. If you want to know how to store ginger, just follow these steps. [Edit]Knowing the Basics - Choose the freshest ginger.[1] If you want your ginger to last as long as possible, then you have to pick out the freshest ginger root and use it shortly after purchasing. To find the freshest ginger, look for ginger with a fresh and spicy fragrance and a nice smooth skin. The rhizomes of the ginger should feel heavy and firm in your hands. Avoid any ginger that's wrinkled or feels a bit soft, or you'll be eating ginger that's already on the decline.
- Avoid any ginger that is wet, moist, or moldy.
- Decide whether to store the ginger in the freezer or refrigerator. If you know you'll be using the ginger again soon, then you should just store it in the refrigerator to make it easy to use, peel, or mince the ginger in the future. Ginger can last in the refrigerator for up to three weeks, so if you know you won't be using it before then, then you should store it in the freezer.
- You can also mix and match. If you know you'll be using a small chunk of the ginger soon, then you can cut off a chunk and refrigerate it and then freeze the rest of the ginger for use in the more distant future.
[Edit]Storing Ginger in the Fridge - Store ginger in a zipper storage bag. To store ginger in a zipper storage bag, simply take the unpeeled ginger and place it in a zipper bag, taking care to push all of the air out of the bag. Place it in the veggie crisper in your fridge and have it stay crisp and fresh for several weeks. When compared to other methods, such as storing the ginger in a paper bag or wrapping it with a paper towel and then placing it in the bag, this method came up lasting the longest by quite a few weeks.[2]
- If the ginger is already peeled, this method will work too, but it won't last as long as it would with the peel on.
- Store ginger in a paper towel and paper bag. Store a chunk of unpeeled ginger by carefully wrapping it in a paper towel until there's no air holes or uncovered parts and then place it in a paper bag. Take care to push all of the air out of the paper bag before you seal it. Place the ginger in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator and store it for a few weeks.
- Store ginger in a paper bag.[3] If you're in a pinch for time, you can just place the ginger in a paper bag and put the bag in the vegetable crisper of your fridge. The ginger won't last as long as it will using the other methods, but this is a quick and easy trick to use if you know you'll be eating the ginger within a week. This is a solid method for quickly storing herbs such as dill or cilantro as well.
- Store freshly peeled ginger submerged in spirits. Just place the freshly peeled ginger in a jar or sealable container and submerge them a spirit or acidic liquid. The most commonly used liquids are: vodka, dry sherry, sake, rice wine, rice vinegar, and fresh lime juice.[4] Vodka and sherry are the most popularly used spirits, and vodka has been shown to have the longest-lasting results while altering the flavor of the ginger the least.[5]
- Though this is a solid storage method, be aware that the liquid will change the flavor of the ginger a bit -- or a lot.
[Edit]Storing Ginger in the Freezer - Wrap the ginger in plastic wrap and seal it in a zipper storage bag.[6] Carefully take a sheet of plastic wrap and wrap it around the unpeeled ginger once or twice until it's completely covered by the plastic wrap. Then, place the ginger in a zipper storage bag, taking care to push out any extra air. Place the zipper bag in the freezer and enjoy the ginger for the next few months. Grating whole, frozen ginger root with a cheese grater is very easy, by the way .
- Freeze minced ginger. First, peel the ginger and mince it finely. Then, spread or scoop the ginger on a tray that is lined with parchment, using portions that are teaspoon or tablespoon sized. Place the tray in the freezer until the ginger is completely frozen and then transfer it to an airtight container like Tupperware or a jar with a tight lid. Place it in the freezer and enjoy this minced ginger for up to six months.[7]
- Freeze chopped ginger. Chop up ginger into the size you'd like it to be for your future meals, whether it's into thumb-sized pieces or matchstick-sized pieces. You can mix and match, cutting up the ginger into any size you like while keeping on the skin. Then, store the ginger in an airtight container and place it in the fridge.
- Cut the peeled ginger in medallions. If you know you'll cook the ginger in medallions, you can peel it, cut it up into a medallion shape, and then place it a glass bowl or another freezer-friendly open container. Place it in the freezer until the ginger is completely frozen, turning over the ginger after an hour to speed up the process if you like. Then, place the ginger in an airtight container and seal it. Place it in the freezer and enjoy this frozen ginger for at least three months.
[Edit]Storing Ginger in a Jar with a Vacuum Seal This method allows for storage of a few weeks. - Use a vacuum sealing device such as Food Saver or another brand.
- Place the amount of ginger into a canning jar.
- Add the lid.
- Vacuum seal with the jar attachment. Label and date the jar.
- Store in the refrigerator. Use within a few weeks.
[Edit]Storing Ginger with a Vacuum Seal Bag This method allows for longer storage than the jar vacuum seal method. - Put the ginger that you want to keep into a vacuum seal bag.
- Vacuum the pack with the vacuum sealer.
- Label and date. Place in the freezer. Use as needed.
- If wished, you can also store finely chopped or blended ginger in the dry sherry mixture rather than ginger pieces. This can allow for more ginger to be stored and it is very easily used in cooking. If you choose to do this, add a small amount of sherry to the blender to aid blending.
- Ginger is best grated using a ceramic ginger grater.[8] It is a lot easier using one of these than an ordinary cheese grater and they are very affordable to purchase. These graters have raised edges which stop the ginger from slipping off the sides. Naturally, they never rust and they can be used for other foods such as chocolate or nutmeg.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Ginger
- Paper bag
- Refrigeration
- Sherry for excess storage method
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Drive Manual Posted: 29 Nov 2021 08:00 AM PST The basic concepts of starting and shifting through the gears is a manageable process for just about anyone. To drive a manual, you'll need to familiarize yourself with the clutch, become comfortable with the gearstick, and practice starting, stopping, and shifting gears at various driving speeds. [Edit]Learning the Basics - Start on level ground with the car off. Especially if this is your first time driving a car with a manual transmission, start slowly and methodically. Put your seat belt on once you sit down. While learning, it can be useful to roll down the windows. This helps you hear the sound of the engine revving and to shift gears accordingly.[1]
- The pedal on the left is the clutch, the middle one is the brake, and the accelerator is on the right (remember it, from left to right, as C-B-A). This layout is the same for both left-hand drive and right-hand drive vehicles.
- Learn what the clutch does. Before you start pushing down on this unfamiliar pedal on the left, take a moment to figure out the basics of its function.[2]
- The clutch disengages the engine from the wheels. When one or both are spinning, the clutch allows you to switch gears without grinding the teeth of each separate gear.
- Before you change gears (either to move up or down), the clutch must be depressed (pushed).
- Adjust the seat position so you can access the clutch pedal's full range of motion. Slide forward enough to allow you to press the clutch pedal (the left pedal, next to the brake pedal) fully to the floor with your left foot.[3]
- Press the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor. This would also be a good time to take note of how the travel of the clutch pedal differs from that of the brake and gas. It's also a good opportunity to get used to slowly and steadily releasing the clutch pedal.[4]
- If you've only ever driven automatic cars, it might feel awkward to use your left foot to push a pedal. With practice, you'll get used to using both feet in concert.
- Move the gearstick into neutral. This is the middle position that feels free when moved from side to side. The vehicle is considered out of gear when:[5]
- The gearstick is in the neutral position, and/or
- The clutch pedal is fully depressed.
- Don't try to use the gearstick without having the clutch pedal depressed, because it simply won't work.
- Start the engine with the key in the ignition, making sure the gear stick is still in neutral. Make sure the handbrake is on before starting the car, especially if you are a novice.[6]
- Some cars will start up in neutral without the clutch depressed, but some newer cars will not.
- Remove your foot from the clutch pedal with the car still in neutral. If you're on level ground, you should remain stationary; you'll start rolling if you're on a hill. If you're ready to move on to actually driving, make sure to release the handbrake (if it's engaged) before you drive off.[7]
[Edit]Moving Forward in First Gear - Press the clutch to the floor and move the gearstick into first gear. It should be the upper-left position, and there should be some kind of visual layout of the gear pattern on top of the gearstick.[8]
- Gear patterns can vary, so take some time beforehand to study your car's gear layout. You may want to practice shifting through the various gears with the engine switched off (and the clutch engaged).
- Slowly lift your foot up from the clutch pedal. Continue until you hear the engine speed begin to drop, then push it back in. Repeat this several times until you can instantly recognize the sound. This is the friction point.[9]
- When you're shifting gears to start or keep moving, this is the point at which you'll want to have the accelerator depressed enough to provide power.
- Let up on the clutch while pushing down on the accelerator. In order to get moving, lift your left foot up from the clutch pedal until the RPMs drop slightly. At the same instant, apply light pressure to the accelerator with your right foot. Balance the light downward pressure on the accelerator with slowly releasing pressure on the clutch pedal. You will probably have to do this several times to find the right combination of up and down pressure.[10]
- Another way of doing it; is to release the clutch until the point the engine revs down a little, and then applying pressure on the accelerator as the clutch engages. At this point the car will start to move. It is best to have the engine rev just enough to prevent stalling as the clutch pedal is let up. This process may be a little difficult at first because you are new to the extra pedal in a manual car.
- Release the clutch fully (that is, slowly remove your foot from the pedal) once you start moving forward under control in first gear.
- Expect to stall at least a few times when you're first starting out. If you release the clutch too quickly the engine will stall. If the engine sounds like it is going to stall, hold the clutch where it is or push down a bit further. If you do stall, depress the clutch fully, apply the handbrake, put the car in neutral, switch the engine off and restart the car as normal. Don't panic.[11]
- Revving the engine while the clutch is between fully up and fully depressed will wear out the clutch parts prematurely, resulting in slippage or smoking of the clutch parts at the transmission. This is called riding the clutch and should be avoided.
[Edit]Shifting in Motion and Stopping - Recognize when it's time to shift up to a higher gear. When your RPM reaches about 2500 to 3000 while the car is in motion, it is time to shift to the next gear — for example, second gear if you are currently in first. The actual RPMs at which shifting is required will vary by the car you are driving, however. Your engine will begin to race and speed up, and you must learn to recognize this noise.[12]
- Depress the clutch pedal until it disengages and guide the gearstick straight down from first gear into the bottom-left position (which is second gear in most configurations).
- Some cars have a "Shift Light" or indications on the tachometer that will tell you when you need to shift, so you don't rev the engine too fast.
- Push down on the accelerator very slightly and slowly release the clutch pedal. Shifting gears in motion is the same as shifting into first from a stationary position. It's all about listening, looking, and feeling for the engine's cues and getting the up-and-down timing of your feet on the pedals correct. Keep practicing and you'll get the hang of it.[13]
- Once in gear and on the accelerator, you should completely remove your foot from the clutch pedal. Resting your foot on the clutch pedal is a bad habit, as it applies pressure to the clutch mechanism — and the increased pressure will cause the clutch to wear out prematurely.
- Shift down into a lower gear as you slow down. If you are going too slow for the current gear you're in, your car will shudder as if it's about to stall. To shift down gears while in motion, follow the same process of depressing the clutch and releasing the accelerator, shifting gears (say, from third to second), and letting off the clutch while depressing the accelerator.[14]
- Come to a complete stop. To come to a stop in a fully controlled manner, shift down gradually until you reach first gear. When it's time to come to a complete stop, move your right foot from the accelerator to the brake pedal and press down as much as is required. As you slow to about , the car will be on the verge of shaking and vibrating. Press the clutch pedal fully down and move the gearstick into neutral to prevent stalling the car. Use the brake pedal to stop completely.[15]
- You can also stop while in any gear by depressing the clutch fully and using the brake while shifting into neutral. This should only be done when you need to stop quickly, though, as it puts you in less control of the vehicle.
[Edit]Practicing and Troubleshooting - Practice on an easy course with an experienced manual driver. While you can legally practice alone on any public road with a valid driver's license, you will pick up the nuances of driving a manual car faster if you have an experienced driver accompanying you. Start off in a flat, isolated area like a large (and empty) car park, then move on to quiet suburban streets. Drive around the same circuit repeatedly until you start to remember the various skills involved.[16]
- Avoid stopping and starting on steep hills initially. When you're new to driving a manual, plan routes that avoid traffic lights at the top of steep hills. Your timing and coordination in working the gear stick, clutch, brake, and accelerator needs to be fairly sharp in order to avoid drifting backwards when you shift into first gear.[17]
- You need to be able to quickly (but smoothly) move your right foot from releasing the brake to depressing the accelerator, while at the same time letting out the clutch. You can use the parking brake to limit backward drifting if necessary, but always remember to disengage it as you start moving forward.
- Learn parking procedures, especially on hills. Unlike automatics, manual transmission cars don't have a "park" gear. But, simply putting the car in neutral opens the possibility of your car rolling freely, especially if parked on an incline or decline. Always use the handbrake, but don't rely on it alone to keep your car in place whilst parked.[18]
- If you are parked facing uphill, shut the car off in neutral, then shift into first gear and apply the parking brake. If facing downhill, do the same but shift into reverse. This will prevent the wheels from rolling in the direction of the slope.
- On extreme inclines, or simply to be extra cautious, you can also place chocks (angled blocks) behind your wheels to prevent movement.
- Stop completely before changing from forward to reverse (and vice versa). Making a complete stop when changing directions is an easy way to reduce your likelihood of causing expensive damage to your gearbox.[19]
- It is strongly recommended to stop completely before going from reverse to first gear. However, it is possible on most manual transmissions to shift into first or possibly second when the car is moving backwards at a slow speed, but it is not recommended as this can cause excessive wear on the clutch.
- In some cars, reverse gear has a lock out mechanism to prevent you for engaging it accidentally. Before using the reverse gear, make sure you know about this locking mechanism and how to disengage it before selecting reverse.
- If you are having difficulty starting the car from a stop, make sure that you are slowly letting off the clutch. Pause at the friction point (the part where the engine starts to move the car) and continue slowly pulling the clutch out.
- Learn to recognize the sounds of your engine; you should eventually be able to tell when to change gears without relying on the rev counter.
- Practice until you can change gears without looking at the gearstick. That way you can keep your eyes on the road and focus on what is ahead of you. Initially, you feel inclined to look at the gearstick, but you will need to resist the temptations.
- If your car seems like it is going to stall, or the engine is sputtering, then push in the clutch again, wait for the engine to return to idle, and repeat the steps to starting off.
- If you are having trouble mastering clutch control, press down on the clutch, engage first gear (with the handbrake engaged), slowly release the clutch and apply the accelerator. You will feel the car moving a bit, then let down the handbrake and the car will move freely.
- When you want to go over a bump, you hold down your clutch and press your brake slightly to slow down and later release the clutch gradually and apply the accelerator gradually to move.
- If there is no gear positions marked on the gear stick, make sure to ask someone who is familiar with the vehicle how the gears are arranged. The last thing you want is to back into something (or someone) when you think you've shifted into first gear.
- These other descriptions mean the same thing as "manual transmission"--"stick shift", "standard", "manual " or simply, "stick".
- Cars with a manual gearbox are better for highway than urban driving because of the extra attention needed for shifting gears in a city environment. A car with an automatic gearbox is usually a better choice for the urban driver, but every driver has their own personal preference. Some like a manual because they feel more in control, and some like it because of the better fuel economy (although Continuously Variable Transmission [CVT], a type of automatic transmission, has better fuel economy than manual transmission). Others prefer automatics for their simplicity; as many motorists say all they have to do is concentrate on their road positioning, and that their knees don't get sore waiting in traffic.
- During sub-freezing temperatures, it is not advisable to leave a car for a long time with the handbrake engaged. Moisture will freeze and the handbrake might not disengage.
- Resting your foot on the clutch or brake pedal is a bad, costly habit. It results in premature wear, loss of power and lowers fuel economy. Your foot should only be on the clutch pedal and FULLY depressed when you wish to change gears or if you need to quickly remove power from the drive wheels (ie: when in a skid on slippery surfaces such as gravel, ice, etc.). The clutch pedal should only be gradually released when starting out from a stop.
- Never "balance" foot pressure on both the accelerator pedal and clutch pedal at the same time in order to keep the vehicle from rolling backward when stopped on an incline. Instead, fully depress the clutch pedal and apply sufficient pressure on the brake pedal to hold the vehicle in place. Shift into 1st gear to be ready to start from a stop on an incline, as described in the steps above.
- If you are having difficulty finding the biting point of the clutch when moving off. Depress the accelerator first then slowly release the clutch to biting point. The car will move without you aiming for perfect clutch position. Add more gas when going uphill.
[Edit]Warnings - Keep an eye on the tachometer until you are comfortable with driving a manual. A manual transmission requires more experience than an automatic. Over rev the engine, and severe damage to the engine may result.
- Stop completely before shifting into reverse no matter which direction the car is rolling. Shifting into reverse while the car is in motion will damage most manual gearboxes.
- When you have stalled and restarted the engine many times over, try to give the starter and battery a break of five to ten minutes. This can help to avoid overheating and damage to the starter and discharging the battery completely.
- Try to watch if you are on a hill or a steep area. You can roll back and hit the person or object behind you if you are not holding in the brake and the clutch.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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