| How to Play Whist Posted: 19 Dec 2021 12:00 AM PST Whist is the 18th-century ancestor to many trick-taking card games, such as Bridge or Hearts. In its original form, it is a fun game of strategy and communication between four players. A more recent and complex variant, called bid whist or contract whist, has the players bet on how many tricks they can take before the game begins. [Edit]Basic Whist - Divide into two partnerships. Whist is always played between two teams.[1] Have players sit in a circle, each player between their two opponents and across from their partner.
- For example, the two members of Team A and the two members of Team B sit down in ABAB order.
- Shuffle the cards and deal them out to each player. Begin with the player to your left and deal clockwise. Each player should end up with exactly 13 cards, yourself included.
- You can all agree on who gets to be first dealer, or decide randomly.
- Remove any jokers from the deck before dealing.
- When playing with strangers or in a tournament, one player shuffles, a second player cuts the cards, and a third player deals them out. This reduces opportunity for cheating and is a common standard for card games.
- Reveal the last card dealt to all the players. The suit of this card (hearts, spades, clubs, or diamonds) is the Trump Suit for this round and will always "beat" cards from the other suits. (Read on for more details.)[2]
- This card is part of the dealer's hand. Make sure everyone gets a chance to look at it before the dealer picks it up with the rest of his hand.
- If the last card dealt doesn't end up in front of the dealer, everyone should count their hand and make sure they have 13 cards exactly. Remember, always deal hands beginning with the player on the dealer's left and moving clockwise.
- This is the only card revealed. All others are hidden in their owner's hand until played.
- Inform everyone of the order of cards. Each card is ranked according to the standard system, with Aces high.
- From lowest to highest: Two, Three, Four, (...), Nine, Ten, Jack, Queen, King, Ace.
- The player to the dealer's left plays a card face up.[3] This card remains on the table visible to everyone.
- This is called leading, since it is the only card on the table. Once a trick is taken, the cards will be moved to the side and whoever took the trick will lead.
- A player may lead with any card.
- The next three players take turns playing a card of the same suit. Moving clockwise (left), each player in turn places a card from their hand face up next to the previous cards.[4]
- If a player has any card in hand with the same suit as the original card, he must put a card down of that suit.
- If he has no cards of the original suit, he may play any card from his hand.
- If more than one suit is face up on the table, only the original suit led restricts what cards someone can play.
- For example, player A leads with a 10 of Clubs. Player B chooses from the Clubs in her hand and puts down a King of Clubs. Player C doesn't have a single Club, so he chooses from any card in his hand and puts down a 3 of Diamonds. Player D has the Jack of Clubs in hand as their only Club and must play it.
- Determine who takes the trick. The stack of four face up cards is called a trick. One player will take this trick and put it face down to one side to be used later for scoring. Follow these simple rules to determine who wins the trick and gets to take it:[5]
- If one or more cards from the trump suit was played, whoever played the highest trump card wins.
- If there are no trump cards in the trick, whoever played the highest card of the suit led wins.
- Remember, the trump suit was determined by the revealed card earlier. Write it down next time if people have trouble remembering.
- Do not put the cards from the trick back into your hand. They will not be played again for this round.
- The winner of the last trick leads for the next one. After moving the last trick to his personal pile, the winner places another card down. Every trick follows the same rules:
- The leader may play any card from their hand.
- The other 3 players take turns in clockwise order from the leader. Each player must play a card of the same suit led if she has it. Otherwise, she may play any card from her hand.
- Whoever has the highest trump card wins the trick. If there are no trump cards in the trick, the highest card of the suit led this trick wins.
- Continue to play tricks until everyone is out of cards. Everyone should run out of cards on the same trick since the cards were dealt evenly.
- In order to make scoring easier, try to keep each trick you win distinct. You can do this easily by stacking them on top of each other but reversing their orientation. (The first trick is oriented North-South, the second is East-West, the third is North-South, etc.)
- Determine each team's score. You score points as a team, not as an individual.
- Count each team's tricks. If Frodo took 3 tricks this round and his partner Sam took 4, they combine this into one number: 7.
- The winning team subtracts 6 from the number of tricks they won. This is their score for the round. (Frodo and Sam would earn 1 point.)
- The losing team scores no points this round.
- Remember to count tricks (groups of 4 cards) and not the number of individual cards won.
- Play additional rounds until a team scores a total of 5 points. To set up for the next round:
- Shuffle all cards together.
- The player to the last dealer's left is the new dealer. (Continue rotating clockwise each round.)
- The last card dealt is revealed as before to determine the trump suit. There is only ever one trump suit per round.
[Edit]Bid Whist or Contract Whist - Make sure all players are familiar with whist rules. Bid Whist begins with a bidding process that will make little sense to someone who has not seen whist played before.
- (Fortunately, the rules for basic whist are written right on this page!)
- Shuffle two different Jokers into the deck. Players should agree which Joker is the "Big Joker" and which is the "Little Joker". The deck should now contain 54 cards.
- Deal 12 cards to each player and 6 in its own pile. This pile of six is called the kitty. Players may look at their hands but the kitty remains face down.[6]
- The player to the dealer's left makes a bid or passes. There are several varieties of bid a player can make. This is essentially a bet (or "contract") that the player's team will be able to take a certain number of tricks.[7]
- Each bid must include a number from 1 to 7. This is the number of points the bidding player claims they can make.
- Since the first six tricks a team wins aren't worth any points, add 6 to the bid to determine how many tricks the player's team has to take to succeed. A bid of 3 is a promise to win at least 9 tricks.
- A winning "Downtown" bid changes the value of the cards. A bid of "Four" or "Four Uptown" is a promise to win at least 4 points (10 tricks) and to follow the usual ranking of the cards. A bid of "Four Downtown" promises to win at least 4 points and follow a partially reversed card ranking:[8]
- The uptown (or normal) card ranking from lowest to highest is: 2, 3, (...), 10, J, Q, K, A, Little Joker, Big Joker. Both Jokers are considered trumps.
- The downtown card ranking from lowest to highest is: K, Q, J, 10, (...), 2, A, Little Joker, Big Joker. Both Jokers are considered trumps.
- Note that Aces and Jokers remain high in the Downtown ranking!
- "Notrump" bids promise to play a round without a trump suit. A bid of "Seven Notrump" promises that the bidder's team will win seven points (all 13 tricks) and that there will be no trump suit this round.
- If a Notrump bid wins, jokers are worthless this round and can never win a trick.
- You cannot make a "Notrump Uptown" or "Notrump Downtown" bid.
- Each player in clockwise order bids or passes. Each bid must be higher than the last bid spoken, following these rules:
- A bid is always higher than a bid with a lower number. Any bid of "Four" beats any bid of "Three".
- A "Downtown" bid is higher than an "Uptown" bid of the same amount. Remember that an unspecified bid (e.g. "Five") is assumed to be an Uptown bid.
- A "Notrump" bid is higher than any other bid of the same number.
- When the other 3 players pass, the last bid spoken wins. The rules declared in that bid are now in effect this round, once the winner makes some decisions:
- If the winning bid was a Trump, Uptown, Downtown, or unspecified bid, the winner decides which suit is the trump suit this round.
- If the winning bid was a Notrump bid, the winner decides whether to play with Uptown or Downtown ranking.
- If the first three players to speak all pass, the dealer must make a bid and automatically wins the bidding.
- The winning bidder looks at the pile of cards set aside. The six cards in this "kitty" count as the first trick for the winner. There are additional special rules associated with these:
- Unless the winning bid was Notrump, the winner reveals the cards in the kitty to all players.
- The winner may now secretly exchange any number of cards in his hand for an equal number in the kitty. The other players can see how many cards are being exchanged, but not which ones.
- Play a round of whist. Apart from the special rules determined by the winning bid, including the value of Jokers, the trick-taking portion of the game is unchanged.
- The rules for this portion are detailed in the Basic Whist section.
- Since the winner of the bidding portion took the first trick (the kitty), that player leads for the next trick.
- Determine scoring. Only the team that won the bidding this round can score points, but they have the potential to lose points as well:
- The bid-winning team counts the number of tricks they took this round. This includes the "kitty" set aside while dealing. (It counts as one trick.)
- If the bid-winning team succeeded in its points goal, they score points normally. (Remember that a team's first six tricks provide no points. Each additional trick is worth one point.)
- If the bid-winning team failed to meet its goal, it loses points equal to the amount they fell short. For instance, if the winning bid was Seven and that team only scores three points (9 tricks), that team loses four points.
- Play additional rounds until a predetermined score is reached. A common system is to play until one team earns 5 points total (and wins the game) or -5 points total (and loses).
- During a whist tournament with multiple tables playing simultaneously, the organizers may decide that each table plays a certain number of rounds rather than playing to reach a certain score. This causes each table to finish at roughly the same time.
- To save time on shuffling, keep a second deck around and have someone shuffle it while the dealer is handing out cards from the first deck. Keep alternating and you'll never have to wait between rounds.
- You can place a second deck of cards or another object in front of the player to the dealer's left to remind everyone whose turn it is to deal in the next round.
- Some players use each suit in turn as the trump instead of revealing a card.[9] First hearts, then diamonds, then spades, then clubs are trumps. For the fifth round you either return to hearts or, optionally, play a round with no trumps at all (and return to hearts for round six).
- For a riskier version of bid whist, many players require a minimum bid of 3 instead of 1.
[Edit]Warnings - It is never allowed to mention a card in your hand or reveal them, except for the single card revealed to determine trumps.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Exactly 4 players
- A standard 52-card deck of playing cards
- Two Jokers with different appearances (Bid Whist Only)
- An optional second deck eliminates shuffling time between rounds.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Prepare a Child for Their First Flight Posted: 18 Dec 2021 04:00 PM PST If you've never flown with your child and they're still too young to fully understand the process, you may be anxious about getting them ready for the air. Take a deep breath. Other parents have been through this and survived just fine, and you will too. To help things go smoothly, be diligent about packing, let your child know what to expect, and give yourself some extra time at the airport. We're here to walk you through everything you might want to consider to get your child ready to fly. Even if you prepare the best way possible, your child might just have a bad day, or things might not go as planned, and that's not your fault!
This article is based off an interview with our professional parenting coach, Jami Yeger, founder of Austin Born. Check out the full interview here. [Edit]Pick a flight during nap time. - If you board when your child is a little sleepy, things may be easier. Kids can be unpredictable, but you should have a sense for when your child will be the most likely to be laid back. If they're running all over the place most mornings, choose a later flight. If they tend to struggle going to bed, fly earlier in the day.[1]
- Alternatively, if your child is instinctively excited about flying, you might choose to fly when they're going to be wide awake. That might be the calmest time for them. Some kids get really irritated and annoyed when they're tired for something they've been looking forward to.
[Edit]Select window seats near a restroom. - Aim to keep your child away from the aisle and strangers. Too many strange people may scare your child, and being near the aisle will expose them to all kinds of stimuli and potential dangers (like mishandled snack carts) that could throw a wrench in your plans. Remember, you'll get to board first with a small child, so don't worry too much about that part! [2] You may want to consider a few other variables, though.
- If your child is super excited to fly and they aren't scared of heights, do your best to get them a window seat. If the plane has three columns of seating, don't choose the middle section that's far from the window.
- There are normally restrooms near the front and back of the plane. Sit close to them, if possible. Not only do kids need to go to the bathroom regularly, but you'll be able to get up with your child multiple times without bothering anyone nearby.
[Edit]Purchase a spare seat for kids under 2 if you can. - Getting your child their own seat will give you space to work. Children under the age of 2 can go on your lap, but you should consider buying your child their own seat anyway. It's safer from a turbulence perspective if they have their own seats, but it's also going to be easier for you if you have a seat to lay your baby down temporarily.[3]
- Do not bring your regular car seat for your child. If you want a car seat for your child on the plane, it must be a special child restraint system (CRS) that has been approved by the FAA.[4]
- For children who weigh , there is only one "car seat" that you can use—the CARES Child Safety Device.[5]
[Edit]Contact the hotel or destination and ask about rentals. - Reach out to see if you can rent any bulkier items you may need. Many hotels, resorts, and travel services offer strollers, car seats, and other essential items like that for rent. You may also inquire about jog strollers, toys, or pack 'n plays as well. You may need to call multiple numbers, but this may keep you from lugging something big around![6]
- You can contact the airlines and airports you're flying with to see if they have strollers for rent as well.
- If you're staying with friends or family and they have/had kids your age, call them and ask about borrowing some of their gear.
[Edit]Pack only what you need. - Parents tend to overpack, but travelling light will be easier on you. If you're bringing a stroller, bring the smallest one you own. Think about what you can buy either at the airport or when you land. Go with the smaller baby bag, smaller pack of diapers, and minimize the amount of excess you bring.[7]
- Depending on the length of the flight, you probably only need 1 extra change of clothes for your child and a tiny tube of diaper cream. Don't overpack the formula, either. You can always buy that when you land.
- When it comes to diapers, the rule of thumb is 1 diaper for every 1 hour of travel.[8]
- If your child is in that in-between time when they're transitioning out of diapers, feel free to use them for the flight. You won't undermine any progress you're making, and it can help avoid any accidents.
- When it comes to formula, breast milk, or juice you don't actually have to follow the rule. You can bring as much as you'll reasonably need. Just make sure that you let the TSA know you're carrying these things for your child before you go through the screening checkpoint.[9]
[Edit]Bring plenty of things for them to do. - Travel involves a lot of downtime, so pack things to occupy your child. Make sure that you bring a variety of toys and activities so that your child always has something to do. It's especially important to have options if you're flying for more than an hour or two, since it may be difficult for a young child to sit still for a longer flight.[10]
- When it comes to toys, stay away from anything that's going to make a ton of noise on the plane. If your child is older, consider packing some cards or games that the two of you can play together.
- If your child ever gets to use your phone or a tablet, make sure that you bring that along fully charged. Don't forget spare batteries, remote chargers, and a set of child-sized headphones.
- You may want to pack crayons, pencils, and paper for your child to draw. Activity and sticker books are a great way to keep your child occupied.
- There are a handful of snacks and foods that you're allowed to bring through security, but you can also buy them at the airport if you prefer.[11] Just make sure you have food on hand!
[Edit]Include one "surprise" for your child. - Bring one super fun toy or delicious snack as a big reward. The airport and plane may be stressful for your child. Having an extra surprise in your back pocket will give you an out if you run into a sticky situation. If you want to reward your child for being super well behaved as an incentive for future good behavior, break it out as you're boarding. If you need to cull an anxiety-induced tantrum, reveal the surprise to calm them down.[12]
- If your child is totally obsessed with trucks, get them a nice model truck to play with. If they love Paw Patrol, buy a stuffed dog for them.
- If you're packing a surprise food-based treat, stay away from anything that's going to make your child hyper.
- You could tell your child that they'll be able to buy a toy at the airport if they're well-behaved as well. If you're mainly worried about security and boarding, this might be the best way to go.
[Edit]Make the prospect of flying fun for your child. - If you act excited about this, they'll pick up on your energy. Flying with your child can sound a little scary, but don't let that show! In the days and weeks leading up to the flight, keep mentioning how fun it's going to be. Ask them what they're excited about and address any of their questions; the more emotionally prepared your child is, the easier this will be on everyone![13]
- You might periodically say things like, "Are you excited about our flight next week? It's going to be so fun! I can't wait!" or, "We go to the airport next week! I'm so excited."
- Offer to answer any questions your child has, and remind them that it's okay to be curious, scared, or nervous. The more comfortable your child is about the entire process, the calmer they'll be on the flight.
- If you've got a slightly older child, you might walk them through the entire process so that they know what to expect (i.e. check-in, security, boarding, etc.).
- If you have a baby who can't speak or understand you just yet, just smile and be positive with them the day of the flight. Keep your voice down and don't express a ton of stress around them.
[Edit]Double-check all of your bags the night before the flight. - The day of your flight may be hectic, so get fully prepared the day before. If possible, plan on doing all of your packing a full 24-hours before the flight. Before you go to bed, check all of your bags to make sure that you have everything you need. This way, you and your child will be more likely to be relaxed the morning/day of your flight.[14]
- Children pick up on their parent's energy pretty quick. If you're stressed out, they'll be stressed out. Checking your bags the day before should put you at ease.
- If your child is excited about flying, ask them to help you check your bags! Incorporating them in these little travelling activities might be exciting for them.
[Edit]Set expectations for the flight early. - When it comes to behavior, be clear about what you expect. You can frame this however it makes the most sense to you based on your child. Set behavior expectations for the airport, the gate, and the plane. Your child has never flown before, so really spelling out what you want them to do will make things a lot easier for them.[15]
- You might say something like, "When we're at the airport, I expect you to stay close, and hold my hand when I ask. It might be a little loud in there, but we still need to use our indoor voice. If you need a break, just let me know. We can relax a bit when we're on the plane."
- Setting a clear reward for good behavior will pay dividends. Offer to buy them a certain toy when you land, or give them extra time with the tablet on the flight if they're well-behaved.
[Edit]Show your child videos of what it's like to fly. - If they understand what they're going to experience, it may be easier for them. It can be scary for a child to experience a takeoff, turbulence, or even a cramped cabin space if they have absolutely no clue what's going on. Show your child a few fun videos of people flying. They can be cartoons, or even short skits of people enjoying themselves on an airplane. If your child can see what it's like in a video, they'll have an easier time behaving at the airport and on the flight.[16]
- There are tons of airplane-themed songs for kids on YouTube that will even give toddlers an idea of what they're going to be doing.
- If your child hasn't fully developed the ability to comprehend something like flying, you might explain it by comparing it to driving.
- This is especially important if you have an older child with a fear of flying. Showing them people being happy about flying can go a long way towards alleviating fear.
[Edit]Show up 2 hours before your boarding time. - Give yourself a buffer to deal with potential obstacles. Children don't move through security as fast as adults do, and if they start crying you may need a few extra minutes to calm them down before going to the gate. Show up to the airport at least 2 hours before your boarding time. If you have any extra time once you're past TSA, find the airport's play area and let your child run around. This way, they'll burn a lot of energy before they get on the flight.[17]
- This also gives you time to shop for snacks if you didn't bring anything from home!
- If your child is super well-behaved going through security, you may want extra time to let them choose something from a shop as a reward.
[Edit]Explain ear pain and turbulence and pack a bottle or gum. - If they're old enough to understand, explain what they might experience. If your child is older than 5 or so, you may want to give them some gum to chew during takeoff. Alternatively, for younger children, you can have them suck on a binky or drink from a bottle during takeoff to alleviate the change in pressure. When it comes to turbulence, explain to your child that if it's nothing to be afraid of it occurs.[18]
- With a baby, holding them tight during turbulence is the best way to go. If they're older than 2, you may want to hold them but it's usually safer to buckle them into a seat tight.[19]
[Edit]Help your child burn some energy if they get antsy. - It can be hard for a kid to sit still for a long flight, so give them a break. Eventually, your child is likely to become fidgety. If the ride is stable and comfortable, walk down the aisle with them a few times so they can stretch their legs. Alternatively, you may be able to bounce them on your knee, or play a physically-active game from your seat. Whatever you do, help them burn some calories so they can cool off.[20]
- If the airline offers pre-boarding for families with young children, consider skipping it. It's better to give your child an extra 15-20 minutes on their feet and board last (unless it's open seating).[21]
- If they're a little on the older side, you can always give them your tablet and let them play an interactive game to give them something to fixate on if you can't get up.
[Edit]Calm your child down if they act out. - Do whatever you reasonably can to soothe your child on the plane. It's may be hard for your child to sit still after a while, and they may whine, cry, or complain loudly. Don't let it get out of hand. Every child is different and you know your child best, but whatever it is that curbs that behavior—do it. Whether it's a stern talk, a warm embrace, a distraction, or a little white lie about the flight not being much longer, do whatever you need to.[22]
- When in doubt, be encouraging and loving. You can always be firmer in the future if you need to, but if you break out the consequences early on, it may make calming them down in the future difficult.
[Edit]Apologize to fellow passengers if things get messy. - If your child is disruptive, a simple "sorry" can go a long way. If your child does end up throwing a temper tantrum or they're crying a lot, apologize to your fellow passengers if they seem frustrated. It's not the end of the world, but an apology will go a long way towards defusing the situation.[23]
- Befriending your fellow passengers while you're waiting in line and sitting at the gate can be a good way to build some goodwill with the other passengers on the flight.[24]
- This isn't to say that you should feel bad about flying with your child. If other people have a problem, that's on them. It's okay for them to be annoyed if your child is being loud, but this is a pretty normal thing and you shouldn't feel weird about flying with your kid.
[Edit]Treat yourself once things are settled. - Air travel can be stressful with a child, so engage in some self-care! If your child falls asleep on the plane or they get preoccupied by the movie on the tablet, go ahead and turn on that in-flight movie. Crack open that book you've been looking forward to. Whatever it is that you enjoy doing on a plane, do it. You earned it![25]
- Don't be afraid to ask for help from the staff at the airport or on the plane. Many people will understand what you're going through, even if you get a few stink eyes.[26]
- If your child has special needs, you can call TSA Cares at 855-787-2227 to get help at the screening checkpoint.[27]
- Children under 12 can keep their shoes on at the security gate! Don't worry about taking their shoes off while you're getting ready to go through TSA.[28]
[Edit]Warnings - If you're flying international, don't forget your passports. Children need passports to fly out of the country, even if they're toddlers![29]
- Do not give your child anything to make them sleepy or drowsy on a flight without talking to your doctor first.[30]
[Edit]References |
| How to Make Pipe Cleaner Flowers Posted: 18 Dec 2021 08:00 AM PST Pipe cleaner flowers provide all the beauty and color of real flowers without the pesky bees. They are as simple to make as they are cute. They look adorable in old, glass soda bottles and fit perfectly on window sills. They'll brighten up any room and add much needed spunk during the long winter season. Their fun, bright colors are the definition of summer and can be easily changed to fit any personality. [Edit]Making a Simple Flower - Fold the end of a pipe cleaner to form a loop, and twist it to secure it. Measure down 1/3 of the way on your pipe cleaner. Fold this top into a loop, and twist the end around the rest of the pipe cleaner to secure it. You will have something that looks like a stick with a loop at one end. This will make your first petal.
- This pipe cleaner will make the petal part of your flower. It can be any color you want. Popular flower colors include: white, blue, pink, and purple.
- Make a second loop so that the ends of the two petals are touching. Measure halfway down the pipe cleaner, starting from the base of the loop. Fold this top half into a loop. Give it a quick twist to secure it. You should now have two loops next to each other. This will make your second petal.
- Fold the end of the pipe cleaner to make a loop, but leave behind a short stub. Fold the rest of the pipe cleaner towards the base of the second loop. Twist the around the pipe cleaner to secure it. Leave the last 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) untwisted. You will need this to put your flower together.
- Make a second set of petals using a second pipe cleaner. Use the same steps you used to make the first set of petals.
- Try to use the same color as your first pipe cleaner, unless you want a multi-colored flower.
- Remember to leave behind a 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) stub.
- Hold the petals together, and twist the ends together. Take the two sets of petals, and align them so that all the loops match up. Twist the two stubs together.
- When you are done twisting, you can pull the two petal sets apart, like opening a book.
- Cut a yellow pipe cleaner in half, and roll it into a flat disk. This will make the center of your flower. Leave about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) or so unrolled. You will need this stub in order to attach it to your petals.
- Poke the yellow stub through the center of the petals, and push the yellow disk down. Push the stub down between the petals, so that it aligns with the petals' twisted stub. Hold the stubs together, and gently push the yellow disk down until it lays flat against the petals.
- Wrap a green pipe cleaner around the stubs, and leave the rest unwrapped to make a stem. Hook a green pipe cleaner around the base of your petals. Start wrapping it tightly around the petal base, moving downward. When you reach the bottom, straighten the green pipe cleaner out. This will make your flower stem.
- Present your flower. Give it to someone you care about, or stick it into a pretty vase.
[Edit]Making a Daisy or Sunflower - Cut 2 colored pipe cleaners into fourths so that you have 8 mini pipe cleaners. When you are done cutting, sure that they are all the same height. The pipe cleaners can be any color you want, but make sure that they are the same color.
- If you'd like to make a daisy, use white pipe cleaners. If you'd like to make a sunflower, use yellow.
- Fold each mini pipe cleaner in half, and pinch the folded end tightly. This will make your skinny petals, just like in a daisy or sunflower. Keep the pipe cleaner folded shut, and not spread open like a V.
- Gather all of the skinny petals into a bundle. Make sure that all of the folded ends are on the same side. The cut ends will make the top of the bundle. The folded ends will make the bottom of the bundle.
- Cut a green pipe cleaner in half and stick it into the center of the bundle. The top of the bundle should be level with the top of the green pipe cleaner. The bottom of the bundle should be facing towards the bottom of the green pipe cleaner.
- The green pipe cleaner will make the stem. To make a stronger stem, fold a whole green pipe cleaner in half, and twist it to make a thick, half-sized pipe cleaner.
- Cut a yellow or brown pipe cleaner in half, and wrap it around the top of the bundle. This will make the center of your flower. It will also hold it together. Hook the end of the yellow/brown pipe cleaner around the bundle, about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) from the top. Start wrapping the yellow/brown pipe cleaner around the bundle, moving upwards.
- Use a yellow pipe cleaner for a daisy, and a brown pipe cleaner for a sunflower.
- Wrap the yellow/brown pipe cleaner as tightly as you can, or it won't hold the flower together very well.
- Fold the end of the yellow/brown pipe cleaner over the top of your bundle. When you reach the top of your bundle, you will probably still have some yellow or brown pipe cleaner leftover. Fold this leftover pipe cleaner over the top of your bundle to help hide the cut ends.
- Fold the petals upward. By now, you should have something that looks like a closed umbrella. You will need to push the petals outward, like an open umbrella. Be gentle, so that you don't accidentally pull the petals off.
- To make your flower more unique, curve the tips of the petals upward or downward.
- Present your flower. Give it to someone you care about, or put it into a pretty vase.
[Edit]Making a Rose - Cut 4 colored pipe cleaners into fourths, so that you have 16 mini pipe cleaners. This will make your petals. You can any color you want to make your rose, but make sure that all 4 pipe cleaners are the same color. The most popular rose colors are red, pink, and white.
- After you cut them, make sure that the mini pipe cleaners are all the same height.
- Gather 15 of mini pipe cleaners into a mini bundle. This will make the flower part. Save the last mini pipe cleaner for later. You will need it to hold your rose together.
- Cut a green pipe cleaner in half, and stick it into the middle of the bundle. The top of mini bundle should be level with the top of the green pipe cleaner. The bottom of the mini bundle should be facing towards the bottom of the green pipe cleaner. Make sure that the mini pipe cleaners are gathered all around the green pipe cleaner.
- The green pipe cleaner will be your stem. To make it stronger, fold a whole green pipe cleaner in half, and twist it to make a thick, half-sized pipe cleaner.
- Wrap the last mini pipe cleaner around the top of the bundle. Measure down about ½ inch (1.27 centimeters) and hook the end of the mini pipe cleaner around the bundle. Start wrapping the mini pipe cleaner around the bundle, moving upwards towards the top. This will hold your rose together.
- Wrap the mini pipe cleaner as tightly as you can, or your rose won't hold together very well.
- Open up the mini pipe cleaners, and spread them around the green pipe cleaner. You will end up with something that looks like a spider or sea anemone.[1] Don't worry, you will end up with a pretty rose when you are done, and not a spider.
- Be gentle when spreading the mini pipe cleaners, or you will pull them apart.
- Roll each mini pipe cleaner towards the center, as tightly as your can. Start by folding the tip of each mini pipe cleaner over. Then, roll each mini pipe cleaner towards the green pipe cleaner at the center. Keep the roll as flat as you can, like a disk. These will become your petals.[2]
- Roll all of the mini pipe cleaners in the same direction.
- Twist and turn the petals to arrange them. When you are done rolling the petals, many of them will probably be vertical; they should be horizontal. To make them look more rose-like, turn each disk/petal so that it is horizontal. Some disks/petals will need to be on top of each other.
- There should be fewer petals towards the center, and more towards the outside.
- The petals will also be closer together towards the center than the outside.
- Present your rose. You can give it to someone you care about, or stick it into a pretty vase.
- Make a bunch of different flowers and tie them together with a ribbon. Give them as a gift to your mother, aunt, grandmother, or favorite teacher.
- You can use a pair of sharp scissors to cut the pipe cleaners, but wire cutters will be easier. You also won't risk ruining your scissors.
- Fill a cup or pot with coffee beans, and stick your pipe cleaner flowers into them.[3]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Making a Simple Flower - 2 colored pipe cleaners
- ½ yellow pipe cleaner
- 1 green pipe cleaner
- Scissors or wire cutters
[Edit]Making a Daisy or Sunflower - 2 colored pipe cleaners
- ½ yellow or brown pipe cleaner
- ½ green pipe cleaner
- Scissors or wire cutters
[Edit]Making a Rose - 4 colored pipe cleaners
- ½ green pipe cleaner
- Scissors or wire cutters
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Build a Simple Dog House Posted: 18 Dec 2021 12:00 AM PST Whether you have an outdoor or an indoor dog, dog houses are a worthwhile investment. A dog house can serve as a permanent shelter for outdoor dogs, or as a place for indoor dogs to hangout while they're outside. However, building a dog house is a somewhat difficult task. Not only do you have to design the dog house, but you've got to cut the wood and put the dog house together. Thankfully, with a little bit of time and some knowledge, you'll be able to build a dog house in no time. [Edit]Planning the Dog House - Determine how long and how wide you want the dog house to be. While some people will construct a dog house that just fits their dog, others will want to build a supersized jumbo dog house. Think about how big you want your dog house.
- Measure your dog to see the minimum size your dog house needs to be. Always make it larger than your dog.
- Add at least half a foot (15 cm) above your dog's height.
- Plan to make your entrance half a foot (15 cm) wider than your dog.
- For simplicity, try to round the measurements of your house to the nearest half foot. This will help not only in sketching, but also in measuring and buying materials.
- Sketch the dog house. Before you can start constructing the dog house, you need to spend a little time sketching it so you'll have a plan to work with. Sketching your doghouse will enable you to start the construction process with confidence that what you're building will turn out as a well-crafted product.
- When sketching your dog house, use one inch to represent a foot. Use half an inch (1.25 cm) to represent half of a foot (15 cm). Since you rounded to the nearest half foot in an earlier step, this should be relatively easy.
- Draw the base (perimeter) of your dog house with all four sides having a measured value.
- Draw each face of the dog house with all four sides having a measured value. Include a measured value for the entrance.
- Sketch the roof outline for each face, and from the top looking down. Include a measured value for all sides.
- Make sure each piece of your frame is labeled and has a measured value.
- Make sure each piece of plywood siding that will go over the frame has a measured value.[1]
- Pick a good spot in your yard. You also need to pick a spot in your yard to place the doghouse once it's built. Picking a safe and convenient spot is extremely important as your dog will likely be spending a good bit of time there. When picking a spot, consider:
- Proximity to the house. You might want it to be close in case you need to feed or check on your dog.
- The contours of the ground. Make sure to pick a spot that is high and flat. You don't want water pooling around the dog house.
- An area with shade. If you're dog will be out during the summer, you probably need to make sure the dog house is in a shaded area. Otherwise, the sun will beat down on its roof all day and heat up your poor pup.
- Prepare the ground for your dog house. After you've chosen a place to put your dog house, you need to prepare the ground. You'll need to even any uneven areas and remove any grass or organic material. This is important, as the floor of your dog house is going to be the ground on which it sits.
- Use a shovel to dig up any grass or plants from the spot.
- Get some soil from nearby or from the store to fill in any holes that might be left.
- Use the backside of a rack to flatten and even out the soil.[2]
[Edit]Gathering Your Materials - Get all of the appropriate tools. There are a wide variety of tools you're going to need to build your simple dog house. Make sure you get all of them before you start any aspect of your construction. If you don't, you'll have to pause construction to run over the neighbor's house or to the hardware store. You'll need:
- A saw. A table saw or a hand saw will work just fine.
- A hammer.
- An electric drill.
- A paintbrush.
- Small roofing tacks.
- 1.5-inch (4 cm) screws, 2-inch (5 cm) screws, and 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails.[3]
- Buy wood. To build your dog house, you'll have to buy a decent amount of wood. The amount of wood depends on the size of the house and on your sketch. Make sure you buy enough wood.
- Consider buying at least 10% more wood than you think you'll need. This will provide you with extra material if you make any mistakes or make any unplanned additions.[4]
- Buy 2x4s for the frame and support.
- Buy plywood (your choice of gauge) for the siding of the dog house.
- Use waterproof wood for the house if you plan to store the house outdoors.
- Have your wood pre-cut at the store if this works for you.
- Decide on and buy roofing material. In addition to plywood and 2x4s, you'll also need to decide on roofing material. Roofing material is important because it will protect your dog house from rain and snow and help prolong the life of your creation.
- Consider 3-tab roofing tiles.
- If you have old roofing supplies from previous projects, feel free to use them.
- If you want to put tar paper, felt, or other roofing paper underneath the roofing tiles, you can.[5]
- Pick a paint color. You also need to buy some paint. Painting your dog house will both help protect it from the elements and it will add a measure of style to your new creation.
- Consider a color that matches your house.
- For almost all projects, one gallon of exterior paint will work fine.
- Avoid interior paint. Only use exterior paint as it provides a measure of weatherproofing.
- Feel free to use extra paint if you have some laying around from another project.
[Edit]Building the Dog House - Cut your wood, unless you had it pre-cut at the store. The first step you need to take when building the dog house is to cut all of the wood you'll need to use in the construction process. Pre-cutting your wood will make sure you have all of your materials ready to go once you've started the construction process.
- Make sure to cut with precision and remember that you used one inch to represent one foot on your sketch.
- Cut 2x4s to use for your base. You should have four base pieces (two long and two short).
- Cut 2x4s to use for your framing. Your framing will include four corner posts. It will also include four pieces to use as the top of your frame (these will match the dimensions of your base pieces). If your dog house is longer than three feet, consider adding extra support frames.
- Cut plywood to use for your siding.[6]
- Attach the base. Take the four base pieces and the bottom plywood piece and attach them to each other. The base will create the foundation of the house, so make sure to do it correctly.
- Turn the 2x4s up so the 2 inch sides are on the ground.
- Make sure you're working on a level surface.
- Take one short piece and one long piece and attach them (2 inch or 5 cm side on the ground) by screwing a two inch nail into the wood with an electric drill.
- Take the now L shaped foundation and attach the other short 2x4 to the opposite side of the original short 2x4.
- Take your final long piece and complete the rectangle by screwing another 1.5 inch (4cm) screw into the corner of the rectangle.
- Use a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.[7]
- Complete the rest of the frame. After you've got the base together, you need to consult your sketch and complete the frame of the dog house. Since the frame is the most important, you need to do this slow and carefully.
- Take the corner posts and use an electric drill to screw (and attach) them to the base. Make sure the long face of the 2x4s are parallel to the long side of the dog house.
- If you have extra support 2x4s, place them equal distance between the corner posts on the long side of the dog house.
- Top off the frame with the four pieces that were measured the same as the base. Use your electric drill to screw them into the corner posts. In addition, make sure to use two inch screws to screw them into each other.
- Use a square to make sure the side pieces are attached at a right angle.[8]
- Build the roof. After you've framed the house, you need to frame the roof. Your roof frame and shape will follow whatever you chose in your sketch, so make sure to follow it.
- If you chose a gable roof (a roof that has two sides that slope and a triangle-shaped "gable" wall at each end), make sure to frame your "A" shape well. Use an electric drill to screw 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws into your roof frame. Use more 1.5 inch (4 cm) screws to attach the roof frame into the main frame of the dog house.
- If you choose a flat roof when you made your sketch, you can move on to the next step.[9]
- Attach the plywood to the main frame and roof frame of the dog house. After you've framed the roof, it's time to move on to attaching your plywood siding to the dog house. Your plywood siding will create the walls of your dog house and serve as a stabilizing force.
- Take your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the long sides of the dog house. Use 1-inch (2.5 cm) nails and hammer them into the frame. Use 3 nails for each corner post, spacing them evenly. Use another 2 sets of 3 nails to secure the plywood to the base and to the top 2x4 of the frame. If you used an extra piece of 2x4 for support, use 3 more nails to secure the plywood to it.
- Take your pre-measured plywood and attach it to the short sides of the dog house. You should have cut special wood (based on your sketch) for the dog house door. Use 3 1-inch nails to secure each side of the plywood into each corner post.
- If you chose a flat roof, simply attach your pre-measured plywood to the main frame of the dog house.[10]
[Edit]Putting on the Finishing Touches - Nail on your roofing material. After you've secured the plywood to the frame, it's time to attach your roofing material. Attaching your roofing material is important as you'll want to protect the dog house from rain and snow.
- If you've chosen to put down tar paper or other material underneath shingles, put it down.
- Use ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the paper.
- Lay your 3-tab or other roofing material on the roof of the dog house.
- Use ½ inch (1.25 cm) tacks or nails to secure the 3-tab.[11]
- Paint the dog house. Coat it with some paint of your choice. Coating it with paint will help preserve it. It will also add to the aesthetics of your yard.
- Take your paint brush and apply a thin and quick coat of paint to the dog house.
- After the first coat has dried, apply another coat of paint.
- If you want, you can flip the dog house upside down and paint inside. This might help the wood stand up to the elements longer.[12]
- Inspect the dog house. After you've finished the roof and painted the dog house, it will be time to inspect the dog house. Inspecting the dog house is important, as you want to make sure it is safe for your dog. Put as much time as is needed to inspect the dog house thoroughly.
- Look for any nails or screws that are protruding from wood. Pay special attention to nails that might be coming through the roof or frame of the roof.
- Make sure each piece of the dog house is attach to each other and to the frame.
- Do a soft shake test. Rattle the dog house a little to see how stable it is. This will give you an idea of how it will stand up to your dog moving around in it.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Preserve Insects in Resin Posted: 17 Dec 2021 04:00 PM PST Whether you want to make a really cool paperweight or preserve a rare butterfly specimen for years to come, encasing (casting) an insect in resin is a great DIY project. This article walks you step-by-step through a simplified preservation process, but also offers some advice on doing a more detailed preservation in the last section. Either way, you'll be amazed by the results! [Edit]Preparing the Insect for Preservation - Sanitize the insect in alcohol for at least 5-10 minutes. Ethanol (70%-80%) is the best choice here, but isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol (70%-80%) is easier to find and gets the job done. Add the insect to a cup, bowl, or jar of alcohol for at least 5-10 minutes to kill bacteria, or seal it in a glass jar of alcohol for days, weeks, or even months until you're ready to preserve it in resin.[1]
- If you're catching a live insect to preserve, putting it in alcohol for at least 10 minutes will kill it while also cleaning it. But also keep in mind that it's usually fairly easy to find dead insects that are still intact if you're willing to look around for them.
- You may get better preservation results with living soft-bodied insects (like caterpillars, grubs, and larvae) by putting them in boiling water for 1-2 minutes. After that, transfer them to a container of ethyl or isopropyl alcohol.[2]
- Remove the insect from the alcohol and let it air dry. It'll take around 5-30 minutes for the insect to dry completely, depending on its size and how long it's been soaking. Since you're aiming to do a simplified preservation process, move straight on to preparing the resin for casting.[3]
- If you're interested in doing a more detailed preservation process that's closer to what professional entomologists do, skip this step and check out the "Advice for More Detailed Preservation" section of this article before proceeding.
- While it's definitely more time-consuming, the detailed process reduces the chance of the insect rotting inside the resin and increases the visual appeal of the insect's appendages.
- Set up in a ventilated area with safety gear before mixing the resin. It's extremely important to work with resin in a highly-ventilated location, such as in a garage with all the doors and windows open. For additional safety, wear disposable gloves, protective eyewear, and a protective mask that filters out the resin fumes.[4]
- Check the specific safety recommendations for the brand of resin you're working with. Insect preservationists typically use one of several brands of clear polyester casting resin.[5]
[Edit]Setting the Insect in Resin - Stir together a small batch of resin in a disposable container. A clear disposable plastic drink cup is a good choice here. Resin is made by combining the resin base with the catalyst. You should follow the specific mixing instructions on the resin package, but here's a typical mix to make a base layer for 4-5 individual molds: pour of resin base in the bottom of the cup, add 40-45 drops of the catalyst, and stir slowly but thoroughly with disposable wooden tool (like a crafting stick or chopstick) for about 1 minute.[6]
- Stir slowly so you don't add lots of air bubbles into the resin. These will show up in the finished product.
- It's impossible to completely clean out the mixing container once you mix resin in it, so always opt for something you can throw out. However, do not use a styrofoam cup or bowl, since it may react with the resin.
- Slowly pour a resin layer into a silicone mold. Silicone baking molds are great for at-home insect preservation, since the hardened resin pops out easily. (But, to be safe, don't use them for baking any time afterward!) Pour a slow drizzle of the mixed resin into the silicone mold until it the base layer is about deep.[7]
- Pour slowly to cut back on the number of air bubbles you introduce into the resin.
- Ice cube trays work okay for smaller bugs, especially if they're made of silicone instead of hard plastic.
- Silicone molds made specifically for resin casting are available online and in some craft stores. Try these if you need shape and size options that you can't get with baking molds.
- Wait about 30 minutes for the resin to get thicker (but not gelatinous). This thickening process can take anywhere from 20-50 minutes, but typically takes about 30 minutes. Starting at about 15 minutes, poke at the surface of the resin with a clean toothpick every few minutes. It's ready for the next step once the consistency is somewhere between heavy cream and sour cream—do not wait so long that a gelatinous "skin" forms on top.[8]
- While poking with the toothpick to check the thickness of the resin, take the opportunity to pop any air bubbles that are near the surface.
- Very gently press the insect into the resin with tweezers. Use the tweezers to carefully center the insect on the surface of the base layer of resin, right-side up. Press down on its back ever so slightly so that the underside of the insect becomes set into the resin. Don't press down so hard that the insect touches the bottom of the silicone mold.[9]
- If the insect floats freely, the resin hasn't set up enough. Carefully remove the insect and wait a few more minutes before trying again.
- Mix more resin while the base layer gelatinizes in 5-10 minutes. Once you lightly press the insect into the thickened resin, it'll take roughly another 5-10 minutes for a gelatinous "skin" to form on the resin—test it with a clean toothpick to be sure. While waiting, make more resin by following the same mixing ratio as before. However, mix up more resin this time if necessary—you want enough resin to cover the top of the insect by at least .[10]
[Edit]Finishing the Preservation Process - Submerge the insect in another layer of resin, again pouring slowly. The slower you pour, the fewer air bubbles you'll add to the resin. Keep pouring until there's at least a layer of resin covering the top of the insect.[11]
- As the resin begins to thicken over the following 20 minutes or so, you can use a toothpick to pop any air bubbles that appear. Don't try to pop bubbles once the resin becomes gelatinous.
- Allow the resin to set in the mold for at least 24 hours. The resin should be fully hardened within 24 hours, but the surface will remain tacky for a few more days. Give the resin 3-4 days before unmolding it, if possible.[12]
- No matter how careful you've been, there will almost certainly be some air bubbles trapped in the resin. Just accept them as part of what makes your preserved insect unique!
- Pop the resin-preserved insect out of the silicone mold. Don't worry—the hardened resin will release from the silicone mold without any difficulty. Press up from the underside of the mold while peeling it away from the sides of the resin. At this point, your creation is ready for use as a paperweight, a jewelry pendant, or just a really interesting conversation piece.[13]
[Edit]Advice for More Detailed Preservation - Empty the abdominal cavity and sterilize it with alcohol. Take this step after soaking the intact insect in alcohol for at least 10 minutes. To remove the innards of a medium or large insect, use a very sharp crafting knife to slice open the underside of the abdomen, then carefully clear out the cavity with tweezers, cotton swabs, toothpicks, and similar fine tools. Clean the tools in alcohol to sterilize them, then use them to fill the cavity with small pieces of alcohol-dipped cotton balls so it retains its shape.[14]
- If the insect is too small to cut open, or you're just not interested in cutting it open, use a needle to inject the abdominal cavity with alcohol.
- If you don't take this step, the innards may potentially rot while the insect is encased in resin, which does not totally prevent air penetration. If this happens, the abdomen may shrivel up, discolor, and possibly ooze out some unpleasant-looking gunk!
- Pin the insect into its display position on a styrofoam block. Do this after removing or sterilizing the innards. Lay the insect right-side-up on a scrap of styrofoam, then carefully run a #2 or #3 insect pin through it to hold it in place—the ideal spot varies somewhat by insect, but is typically slightly off-center and about one-third of the way down the thorax. Use tweezers to spread out the legs, antennae, wings, etc., as desired, then press pins into the styrofoam (not through the appendages) to hold them in place.[15]
- For insects with delicate wings, pin down thin strips of wax paper over the wings to hold them in position. Don't put pins through the wings.
- Insect pins are available online and at some craft stores. Avoid using regular household pins if you can, since they might rust and discolor your insect specimen.
- If you leave the insect out to dry without pinning it, its appendages may twist, curl, and shrivel in undesirable ways.
- Leave the pinned insect out to dry until its body is rigid. The body of an insect with a hard exoskeleton may become rigid in 2-3 days, while a soft-bodied insect may take 7-8 days. To play it safe, set the pinned insect in a dry, airy spot for a week. Remove the pin(s) holding an appendage in place and see if it holds its position. If so, the insect is sufficiently rigid.[16]
- Once the insect is rigid, carefully remove the pins so it's ready to be encased in resin.
- Cut the resin with a band saw instead of popping it out of silicone. Entomologists who cast insects for scientific purposes want resin blocks with perfectly straight and smooth edges, which isn't possible if you use flexible silicone molds. This level of precision requires the following: casting the resin and insect in a petri dish; cutting the result out of the dish and into a straight-sided block with a band saw; and smoothing the block with a belt sander and buffer.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Ethanol or isopropyl alcohol
- Cup, bowl, or jar (lidded glass jar optional)
- Tweezers
- Disposable gloves
- Protective eyewear
- Disposable cup
- Disposable stirring stick
- Polyester casting resin
- Silicone baking mold / casting mold
- Toothpicks
- Breathing protection (optional)
- Crafting knife (optional)
- Cotton balls (optional)
- Insect pins (optional)
- Styrofoam block (optional)
- Once you get the hang of casting insects in resin, you can try your hand at preserving everything from dried flowers to Lego figures!
[Edit]References |
| How to Fix a Toilet Seal Posted: 17 Dec 2021 08:00 AM PST A pool of water forming beneath the toilet generally means that the wax seal between the toilet and the flange has failed. Repairing a toilet seal requires you to unbolt the toilet from the floor, replace the seal and then put the toilet back in its original position. [Edit]Remove the Toilet Removing the toilet means loosening the bolts that connect it to the flange on the floor. You will need to either spread out a blanket or piece of cardboard to place your toilet on or to place the toilet in the bathtub after you remove it. - Turn the water supply to the toilet off by turning the valve in a clockwise direction. The water supply valve will either be located behind the toilet or in the crawl space or basement space directly beneath the toilet.[1]
- Remove the lid of the toilet tank and flush the toilet, holding down the handle so that as much water as possible drains from the tank and the bowl.[2]
- Use a plastic cup to scoop out any water that is left in the bowl and then dry up the last drops of moisture with a dry sponge.
- Disconnect the water supply tube by turning the compression nut on the water supply valve in a counterclockwise direction with a wrench or a pair of pliers.
- Pry the caps from the washers at the base of the toilet using a flathead screwdriver.
- Remove the nuts from the bolts at the toilet base using a wrench. Remove any washer as well. If the bolt spins as you turn the nut, then hold the bolt with a pair of pliers using your non-dominant hand.
- Place the nuts, washers, and caps where you will be able to find them when the time comes to put the toilet back in place.
- Hold the toilet under the bowl and rock it gently back and forth to break the old wax seal.[3]
- Lift the toilet off of the floor and set it down on a blanket, a piece of cardboard or in the bathtub.[4]
[Edit]Replace the Seal and Reinstall the Toilet Choose a new seal that has a surrounding core of soft urethane foam. This type of seal will do a better job of conforming to the toilet and to the flange to make a superior seal. - Scrape the wax seal off of the base of the toilet and off of the flange in the floor using a putty knife.
- Take a new wax seal and place it on top of the flange, making sure that the seal is perfectly centered on the flange.[5]
- Lift the toilet and set it back on top of the flange, using the bolts as guides for placement. The toilet tank should be parallel to the wall behind it.
- Put the washers over the bolts and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts until the toilet is secure. Press down hard on the toilet and then tighten the nuts some more. Continue the process until the toilet is tightly secured to the flange, but do not over-tighten the nuts or you will crack the base of the bowl.[6]
- Reconnect the water supply by attaching the supply tube to the water supply valve and turning the compression nut clockwise.
- Turn the water supply valve on and flush the toilet several times. If you notice a leak beneath the base of the toilet, then press the toilet into the floor and tighten the nuts even more. If you see no leaks, then your repair is complete.
- After you use the toilet for a few weeks, tighten the nuts at the base of the toilet again. The wax seal will settle after several uses, that tightening the nuts will help to maintain the seal.
- If you're having a hard time putting your toilet back on the flange, then attach plastic drinking straws to the bolts. These will stick up well off of the floor and will guide you to the right placement.
- Check your local building codes to see if you are required to caulk around the base of the toilet. If you are, then be sure to use a tub and tile caulk that is mildew-resistant.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Wax replacement ring (neoprene , optional)
- Dry sponge
- Plastic cup
- Wrench or pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Blanket or piece of cardboard (optional)
- New wax seal with urethane foam core
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Grow a Cactus Posted: 17 Dec 2021 12:00 AM PST Cacti are wonderful, low-maintenance alternatives to standard plants. Molded by dry desert climates, they don't require much water or care and can survive extreme weather conditions. Because of this, Cactus plants are a perfect option for new plant owners and travelers. [Edit]How to Plant a Cactus from Seed - Pick seed pods from existent cacti or buy commercial seeds. When it comes to obtaining seeds for your cactus, you have two options: buying seeds from a gardening store or supplier or picking your own from a cactus that you already have at your disposal. Here, you are essentially choosing between price and convenience — store-bought seeds are cheap and pre-packaged, while self-picked seeds are free but require a little more work.
- If you're buying seeds, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding them for sale. Many brick-and-mortar garden supply stores sell cactus seeds, while online shopping sites can allow you to effortlessly browse hundreds of varieties before ordering.
- If, on the other hand, you want to pick your own seeds, start by finding the seed pods or fruits on your cactus. Usually, these are brightly-colored offshoots of the main cactus body which bear a flower. When the flower falls off, the pod or fruit is ripe and is ready to be harvested (assuming it has been pollinated).
- If harvesting seeds from cactus pods, gather the pods. Remove the pods or fruits from the cactus before they dry out. The pods should not be full of moisture but should still be damp to the touch inside. The seeds themselves, which are inside the pod or fruit can vary in appearance from cactus to cactus. Some seeds will be discrete black or reddish dots clearly visible from one another, while other seeds can be so small as to appear like sand or dust.
- "Ripe" pods with mature seeds should come off with a slight twist of the hand, leaving the interior fiber/cotton on the cactus. If the pod does not come off easily, it is not ready to be removed.
- Next, harvest the seeds from the pods. Once you've removed all of the mature pods from your cactus, it's time to remove the seeds themselves from the pods. Begin by using a sharp knife to slice the tops off of the pods. Next, slice down one side of the pod to expose the seeds. Finally, remove the seeds by carefully scraping them from the inside of the pod.
- Obtaining the seeds from tropical varieties of cactus can be different than obtaining the seeds from a desert cactus, but the general concept is the same — remove the fruit from the plant and open it up to expose the seeds. For example, the seeds of a Christmas Cactus, a type of tropical cactus, can be harvested by removing the blueberry-like fruit and squeezing or tearing it open to produce small black seeds.[1]
- Plant the seeds in high-drainage soil. Whether you bought seeds or harvested them from an existent cactus, you'll want to plant them in clean, shallow containers filled with suitable soil. Moisten the soil thoroughly before planting but do not allow any standing water to remain. Next, spread the seeds across the top of the soil (don't bury them). Finally, lightly cover the seeds with a very thin layer of soil or sand. Cactus seeds only have a small amount of stored energy and if planted too deeply will not reach the surface before they run out.
- Cacti require well-draining soil, especially desert varieties that are vulnerable to diseases from standing water. Try a mix of ⅓ compost, ⅓ horticultural sand, and ⅓ perlite.[2]
- If the soil you use for planting hasn't been pasteurized (it should say whether or not on the packaging), you may want to consider heating it in the oven at 300o F (about 150o C) for half an hour. This kills any pests or pathogens in the soil.
- Cover the container and expose it to sun. Once you've moistened the soil and planted your cactus seeds, cover the container with a transparent lid (like plastic wrap) and place it in a location where the seeds will receive a good amount of sun — a sunny window is a good location. Sunlight should not be intense and constant, but should be strong for at least a few hours each day. The transparent lid will retain moisture in the container as the cactus begins to sprout while allowing light to reach the cactus.
- Be patient as you wait for your cactus to germinate. Depending on the species of cactus you are growing, germination can take anywhere from several weeks to several months.
- Tropical cacti are used to the shady environment under the jungle canopy and thus generally require less sun than desert cacti. You can usually get away with growing a tropical cactus in a brightly-lit spot that receives no direct sunlight. For instance, hanging pots under a shaded awning are a great location for tropical cacti.
- Keep tropical cacti at a steady, warm temperature. While desert cacti in their natural environment are routinely exposed to extreme temperature swings (from extremely hot during the day to extremely cold at night), tropical cacti enjoy balmy, consistently warm weather. Thus, it's a wise idea to grow tropical cacti in locations where they won't experience intense, direct sunlight during the day or chilly cold at night. Try to keep tropical cacti at a temperature of roughly 70-75o F (21-24o C) — greenhouses are great for this.
- If you don't live in the tropics, you'll probably need to grow your tropical cacti indoors, where temperature and access to sunlight is much easier to control.
[Edit]How to Care for a Cactus - When the first spines show, allow the plant to ventilate. In the weeks after you plant your new cactus seeds, your seedling should begin to germinate. Cacti typically grow fairly slowly, so this can take a month or more. Eventually, you should be able to see the first tiny emergence of your cactus's spines. When this happens, start giving your cactus a chance to breathe by removing the transparent cover during the day. As the cactus grows, you may leave the cover off for longer periods of time until the plant is well-established and no longer needs the cover.
- It's worth noting, however, that this will increase the rate at which water evaporates from the soil. This means that you'll need to start watering. Try to do so cautiously — don't let the soil dry out completely, but don't ever leave standing water in the container from over-watering.
- Note that many tropical cacti won't have spines, so in this case simply remove the cover once the seedling sprouts up through the soil.
- Repot your cacti when they are well-established. As noted above, cacti grow fairly slowly. Depending on the type of cactus you have, it should take about 6 months to 1 year to grow to roughly the size of a large marble. At this point, it's a wise idea to repot the cactus in a different container. Like most potted plants, keeping a cactus in a container that's too small for it can cause the plant to become nutrient-starved, inhibiting its growth and even killing it.
- To repot your cactus, use sturdy gloves or a spade to remove the entire plant, roots and all, from its growing medium. Place it in a new, larger container with a the same type of soil, pack the soil around the cactus, and water.
- Allow cacti to recover from repotting in the shade. As the visible, above-ground portion of your cactus grows, its roots will as well. As your cactus becomes larger and larger, which can take years, it may need to be repotted multiple times. However, because the transplantation process can be stressful for plants, it's important that you allow your cactus to "recover" after each time you repot it. Instead of keeping the repotted cactus in a location where it receives a good amount of sunlight, try keeping it in a shaded or partially-shaded area until its roots re-establish. Gradually re-introduce the cactus to sun over a period of a month or so.
- Water infrequently. Established cacti have less vigorous watering requirements than most other potted plants. Though they do require some water, their reputation as hardy desert survivors is well-earned. Most varieties of desert cactus require little water once they're fully established. Though individual species of cactus may differ in the amount of water they require, a good general rule is to let the soil dry out completely before watering. Depending on the temperature, this mean waiting a month or longer between waterings.
- Remember that cacti experience slow, gradual growth. Thus, they don't need very much water. Watering more frequently than is necessary can lead to problems for the plant, including root disorders that can cause the eventual death of the plant.
- Tropical cacti are something of an exception to this rule, as they are naturally acclimatized to more humid environments than desert cacti. While you can get away with a little more watering if you have a tropical cactus, you should still wait until the soil dries out before each new watering.
- Fertilize young plants during the growing months. Though cacti grow slowly, their growth can be supplemented during the growing months of spring and summer with the light application of fertilizer or plant food. Cacti generally require less fertilizer than other plants — try using a diluted solution of liquid fertilizer once a month. Mix a small quantity of liquid fertilizer with an equal volume of water. Use this mixture to water your cactus every second or third watering.
- The precise amount of fertilizer you should use can vary based on both the species of cactus you are growing and its size. Specific information should be on the fertilizer's packaging.
[Edit]How to Deal with Common Cactus Problems - Prevent rot by avoiding over-watering. One of the most common problems when it comes to potted plants is fungal rot (also called root rot). This affliction typically occurs when the roots of a plant are held in contact with moisture that is unable to properly drain, which becomes stagnant and encourages fungal growth. This can happen to most potted plants, but desert cacti are especially susceptible as they naturally require only a small amount of water compared to other plants. The best cure for rot is a preventative one: simply avoid over-watering in the first place. As a general rule, it's better to under-water than to over-water when it comes to cacti. You'll also want to use a good-quality potting soil with a high level of drainage for all cacti.
- If your plant has rot, it may appear swollen, soft, brownish, and/or decayed, with the possibility of splits in its surface. Often, but not always, this condition moves from the bottom of the plant up. The options for treating rot after it has set in are limited. You can try to remove the cactus from its pot, cut away any slimy, blackened roots and any dead tissue above ground, and re-plant it in a new container with clean soil. However, if the damage to the roots is extensive, it may die anyway. In many cases, it's necessary to discard plants with rot to prevent the spread of the fungus to other adjacent plants.[3]
- Gradually increase exposure to sunlight to treat etiolation. Etiolation is a condition in which a plant experiences pale, sickly growth because it is not exposed to enough light. Cacti with etiolated growth will often have a thin, flimsy quality and a pale, light-green color. The etiolated portion of the plant will grow towards a nearby light source, if there are any. While etiolation is permanent in the sense that any sickly growth that has already occurred cannot be reversed, future etiolation can be curbed by ensuring the plant receives a sufficient amount of sunlight.
- However, you won't want to throw a cactus with etiolated growth into intense, direct sunlight immediately. Instead, gradually increase the amount of sun the plant receives each day until you notice that its growth has become normal. Exposing any plant to drastically increased sunlight can be stressful for the plant, while exposing an etiolated cactus to such levels of sunlight can be fatal.
- Avoid phototoxicity by limiting sun exposure after using pesticides. If you've ever noticed that you've gotten an especially-bad sunburn after being in water, you've experienced something similar to phototoxicity, a harmful malady that can affect your plant. After applying an oil-based pesticide to a plant, the oil from the pesticide remains on the surface of the plant, acting as a sort of "tanning lotion" by increasing the intensity of the sun's rays. This can cause the portions of the plant on which the oil is present to become burnt, grey, and dried-out. To prevent this, place the cactus in a shaded location for a few days until the oil-based pesticide has done its work before returning it to the sun.
- Don't be frightened by natural "corking". One aspect of the cactus life cycle with which most people are not familiar is the process of "corking", in which the bottom portions of a mature cactus slowly start to develop a tough, brown, bark-like exterior. Though this condition can appear serious because it replaces the natural green exterior with one that appears dead, it's not actually a sign that the plant is in any danger and can usually be ignored.
- Natural corking usually starts at the base of the plant and can slowly creep upwards. If the corking starts elsewhere on the plant, this can be a sign of a problem. For instance, if the top of the cactus and the side facing the sun bear this weathered appearance but the base of the cactus does not, this can be a sign that the cactus is receiving too much sun, rather than the result of natural corking.[4]
- Use the same soil mix in each pot you replant your cactus to.
- If you want to grow many cacti, you may grow them all in the same container, evenly-spaced apart. When each grows to the size of a large marble, transplant it to its own container.
- Try to use plant food.
[Edit]Warnings - Use thick gloves to handle any cacti on which spines have grown.
- Use a pesticide like malathion to kill Red Spider Mites and Scale, which show up as brown spots.
- Look out for parasites on your cactus, especially Mealy Bugs, which often appear as white blobs. Pick them off with a stick or skewer and use a pesticide to remove any bugs in tough-to-reach spots.
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