| How to Identify a Timber Rattlesnake Posted: 17 Apr 2022 01:00 AM PDT Timber rattlesnakes, or Crotalus horridus, are an endangered species of rattlesnake native to the United States. Their habitat extends from New Hampshire, through the Appalachian Mountains. They have been spotted as far south as northern Georgia and as far west as southwest Wisconsin and northeastern Texas. They are likely found in deciduous forests and rugged terrain.[1] Although venomous, timber rattlesnakes are consider docile and usually only bite as a last resort. [Edit]Identifying Timber Rattlesnakes - Recognize color differences. The physical color of a timber rattlesnake can vary widely depending on its area.[2] For example, they can have many different color variations, called color morphs, including:
- Black morph -- background of gray with a rich black pattern.
- Yellow morph -- background of tan with a sulfur yellow pattern.
- Combination morph - Western and southern populations can have a mixture of a black and yellow morphs.
- Notice general patterns. In general, a timber rattlesnake can be identified as having a wide head and narrow necks.
- Their eyes are yellow, with elliptical pupils.
- They have V or W-shaped crossbar markings, which create a distinct pattern across its back.[3]
- They have a distinctive rattler on its tail made up of a special scales.
- Note size. The record length of a timber rattlesnake is 75.6 inches (189.2 cm)! These are large snakes, generally ranging from 36-60 inches (90-152 cm) in length and between 1.5-3lbs (.68-1.3 kilos).
- They are the third largest venomous snake in the United States.
- Baby rattlers are generally 1 foot (30cm) at birth. Unlike a lot of other snakes, timber rattlesnakes are born alive and not hatched from eggs.[4]
- Look for its pits. Timber rattlesnakes are a member of the pit viper family and have noticeable facial pits located on the side of its head between the eye and the nostril. Sensitive to radiant heat, these pits help the snake detect prey.
- Listen for distinctive rattle. Timber rattlesnakes have specially adapted scales on their tails, which they shake to make a distinctive rattle sound. This is a warning to predators to stay away!
- Learn when these snakes are active. They are typically nocturnal and actively hunt at night. You may find them during the day because of thermoregulation, or the warming of its core temperature.
- Snakes that thermoregulate can often be found sunning themselves on rocks or in direct sunlight. While they are not as active during the day, they can still be found under these conditions.
- Recognize similar looking snakes. A few snakes share similar markings or coloration as the timber rattlesnake. Learn about local snakes that can be easily confused with the timber rattler.
 - Eastern milk snake -- Harmless to humans, the eastern milkshake shares a similar V or W pattern as the timber rattler. It, however, has a checkerboard pattern on its belly. It lacks the distinct pits on the side of the head. This snake is most often confused with the timber rattlesnake as it, despite not having rattle scales, shakes its tail to warn off predators.[5]
- Common garter snake -- These common backyard snakes may share similar coloring of the timber rattlesnake, but lacks its size and distinctive rattle. Garter snakes sometimes have color stripes of scales (rather than the distinctive V or W pattern). This is a harmless snake; however, just like other wild animals, should be left alone if encountered.[6]
- Eastern hog-nosed snake -- This non-venomous snake shares similar color variations as a timber rattlesnake, but is distinctive for its upturned nose and its square blocks of color (usually black) along its back. They reach about 46inches (115cm) and share the same habitat as the timber rattler.[7]
[Edit]Recognizing Habitat - Recognize den areas. Timber rattlesnakes will hibernate in rocky ledges. Rocky outcrops with crevices and near forest openings are considered prime locations. You may find dozens of timber rattlesnakes hibernating in a single area.[8]
- In general, hibernation occurs between the first frost and April.
- Look for swampy areas. In more southern and western locations, like Texas, timber rattlesnakes can be found in swampy areas and thickets.[9]
- Cut timber, tree stumps, and branches are great hiding spots for these rattlers.
- Identify rocky, or rough, terrain. In the more eastern habitat, timber rattlers can be found in more rocky outcroppings near forests. For example, the forest and trails of the Appalachian mountain chain make a prime habitat for the timber rattler.
- Understand habitable biomes. Across all habitats, timber rattlesnakes can be found in two primary biomes: mountains and forests.[10]
- These biomes share a general climate including temperate weather and terrestrial land.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not approach, pick up, or kill any snake you come across. Intentionally approaching or handling these snakes is the cause of most reported bites and injuries.[11]
- These snakes are endangered. Killing one can result in a fine or penalty.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make Dryer Sheets Posted: 16 Apr 2022 05:00 PM PDT Dryer sheets help to prevent static cling, add freshness, and remove odors from clothing. If you use the fragranced sheets, they can even add a nice scent to your laundry. Store-bought dryer sheets are only good for a single use; after that, you have to throw them away. Making your own dryer sheets is simple and only requires a few basic ingredients. Best of all, they are reusable, so you are not only saving money, but also the environment! [Edit]Using Liquid Fabric Softener - Cut squares from old towels or washcloths. Cotton fabric, old T-shirts, and flannel also work well. How many squares you cut is up to you, but 12 is a good starting amount.[1]
- Fill a bowl with of liquid fabric softener. The type of fabric softener that you use is entirely up to you. If you choose to use a fragranced one, however, make sure that it's a scent you like.[2]
- For a gentler version, use 3 tablespoons (45 mL) of fabric softener and of water.[3]
- Soak the fabric squares in the fabric softener. Dip the stack of fabric squares into the bowl, then press down on them with your hands to submerge them. How long you leave the fabric squares in the bowl doesn't matter as long as each square is thoroughly soaked.[4]
- If you have sensitive skin, pull on a pair of rubber gloves. Alternatively, use a stick or jar to press the fabric squares down.
- Wring the fabric softener from the squares. Working 1 fabric square at a time, pluck them out of the bowl, then twist them to squeeze out the excess liquid. Smooth out the wrinkles caused by the wringing, then set them aside.[5]
- The fabric squares will still be wet at this point, so make sure that the surface you're setting them down on is water-resistant.
- Hang the fabric squares up to dry completely. A clothesline would be the easiest route, but you can also tie a long piece of string between 2 chairs and use that instead. The length of the string doesn't matter, as long as you can fit all of the fabric squares on it. Alternatively, drape the fabric squares over a drying rack.[6]
- How long it takes for the fabric to dry will depend on how hot and humid it is. It will dry faster in warmer, drier climates. Expect to wait a few hours, however.
- Don't use a dryer to speed up the process. You want these to air dry.
- If you diluted the fabric softener with water, you don't need to let the fabric squares dry. Simply store them in an airtight container until you're ready to use it.[7]
- Store the dryer sheets in an airtight container. This can be anything you want it to be: a jar, a plastic box, or even an empty baby wipes container. You can roll the sheets up into bundles or fold them up into squares. Don't be afraid to get a little creative here![8]
- If you soaked the fabric squares, pour some of the diluted fabric softener into the container too. This will prevent them from drying out. You want these to be wet when you use them.
- Add 1 sheet into the dryer the next time you want to dry your clothes. If you diluted the fabric softener with water, toss 1 wet sheet into the dryer along with the rest of your laundry.[9]
- A single sheet made from full-strength fabric softener will last 10 to 12 loads. After that, you'll have to re-soak and dry it again.[10]
- If you used diluted fabric softener, you'll have to re-soak your sheets with more diluted fabric softener before every use.
[Edit]Trying Vinegar and Essential Oil - Cut some fabric into squares. Any sort of cotton fabric would work here, including quilter's cotton, old T-shirts, flannel, or even towels. You can cut however many squares you want, but 12 squares would be enough.
- Pour of white vinegar into a bowl. This is the magic ingredient for your dryer sheets. Vinegar has natural deodorizing and fabric softening properties, so it's a great choice for all-natural dryer sheets.
- If you're using a thick, absorbent material, such as towels, use of vinegar instead.
- Stir in 8 to 10 drops of essential oil, if desired. This is completely optional and only there to give your laundry a nice fragrance. You can use just 1 type of oil, or you can mix fragrances. For example, you could use 6 drops of lavender essential oil and 4 drops of tea tree oil.
- If you doubled the amount of vinegar, then double the amount of essential oil. About 16 to 20 drops will do.
- You can find essential oils online and in health food stores. Do not use fragrance oils meant for candle-making or diffusers; they're not the same thing.
- Soak the fabric sheets in the solution. Take your stack of fabric squares and dunk them into the bowl. Press down on them with your hands or a glass jar to submerge them. How long you leave them in the solution will depend on how absorbent the fabric is. It shouldn't be more than a couple of minutes, however.
- Avoid handling the vinegar with your bare hands if you have sensitive skin or any cuts on your hands. Vinegar is very strong and may cause a burning sensation.
- Store the solution and sheets in an airtight container. Use a glass jar with an airtight glass lid, if possible. Avoid jars with metal lids, as it may react with the vinegar.[11] Other options include plastic tubs and boxes, such as baby wipe containers.
- You need to include the solution in the container because you'll be using the sheets while they are still damp.
- Wring the excess solution out from 2 sheets. Take 1 sheet from the bowl and twist it so that it's no longer dripping wet. Set it aside, then take another sheet out of the bowl. Wring that sheet as well. Leave the other sheets in the vinegar.
- This should be enough for 1 load of laundry; if you're drying only a few articles of clothing, then 1 sheet should be enough.
- Toss the wet sheets into the dryer along with the rest of your laundry. Do not dry the sheets out first. Simply toss them into the dryer, then add the rest of your laundry. Start a dryer cycle like you normally would.
- After the cycle ends, take the used sheets out and place them back into the vinegar solution with the rest of the dryer sheets. They will absorb the vinegar and become as good as new!
[Edit]Combining Hair Conditioner and Vinegar - Cut old towels or washcloths into squares. You can also use other types of cotton fabric, such as flannel, old T-shirts, or quilter's cotton. You can cut however many fabric squares you want, but 12 or so will do.
- Mix of conditioner with of white vinegar. Pour of hair conditioner into a bowl, then add of white vinegar. Stir them together carefully with a spoon so that you don't create any bubbles or froth.[12]
- You can increase or decrease the amounts, as long as you use a ratio of 3 parts conditioner and 1 part vinegar.
- If possible, use a natural, organic hair conditioner that's free of sulfates, parabens, dimethicone, artificial preservatives, and synthetic fragrances.
- Use whatever type of conditioner you want. Since this isn't going to do anything for your hair, a cheap, inexpensive brand would work just fine.
- Dunk the fabric squares in the solution, until they are soaked through. Place the stack of fabric squares into the bowl, then press down on them with your hands until they are completely submerged. It shouldn't take very long for the fabric to get soaked through.[13]
- Pull on some gloves or use a jar to press down on the fabric if you've got sensitive skin. The conditioner won't hurt you, but the vinegar might cause a burning sensation.
- Wring the solution out of the fabric and let it air dry. Take a fabric sheet out of the bowl and twist it between your hands to squeeze the excess solution. Untwist it, smooth out the wrinkles, and set it aside. Repeat the process with the other sheets, working 1 sheet at a time. Set the sheets out in a sunny spot so that they can dry completely.[14]
- You can also hang the sheets from a clothesline or a drying rack.
- How long it takes for the sheets to dry will vary. They'll dry faster in hot, dry climates, however.
- Don't speed the process up by using a clothes dryer. The sheets need to air dry.
- Store the squares in an airtight container until you're ready to use them. This container can be anything you want it to be: a plastic box, an old baby wipes container, or even a glass jar. You can crumple the sheets up and stuff them in, roll them into tight bundles, or fold them up into neat squares.[15]
- Use 1 sheet per laundry load. The next time you do laundry, take a sheet and toss it into the dryer along with the rest of the laundry. Start a cycle like you normally would. When the cycle finishes, take the sheet out and put it back into the container with the other sheets.[16]
- Each sheet will last about 3 loads. After that, you'll have to re-soak the sheets.
- Use pinking shears to cut the fabric sheets to reduce fraying. You can also serge the edges or go over them using a zigzag stitch.
- These dryer sheets won't last forever and will eventually start to fray. Because of this, consider using old, ruined, or stained fabric rather than brand-new fabric.
- The dryer sheets weaken a little each time that you use them. Depending on the size of the load that you put into the dryer, they may weaken faster.
- If you have very sensitive skin, vinegar and essential oil might be the safest option.
- You can also try using old socks or sponges. If you choose to use sponges, you don't have to dry them first; just squeeze the excess solution out before tossing it into the dryer.[17]
- If you made dried dryer sheets (as opposed with wet ones), consider have 2 boxes: 1 for used dried sheets and 1 for unused dryer sheets.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Liquid Fabric Softener - of fabric softener
- Small bowl
- Spoon
- Cotton fabric
- Scissors
- Air tight container
- Clothesline or drying rack
[Edit]Trying Vinegar and Essential Oil - of white vinegar
- 8 to 10 of drops essential oil
- Small bowl
- Spoon
- Cotton fabric
- Scissors
- Air tight container
[Edit]Combining Hair Conditioner and Vinegar - of hair conditioner
- of white vinegar
- Small bowl
- Spoon
- Cotton fabric
- Scissors
- Air tight container
- Clothesline or drying rack
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References |
| How to Clean Concrete Floors Posted: 16 Apr 2022 09:00 AM PDT Concrete is durable and versatile, making it a popular material for both interior and exterior flooring surfaces. Because it is stain-resistant and can be left plain and smooth or stamped with unique designs, concrete also offers a great deal of flexibility in terms of functionality and decor in a variety of spaces. Since concrete is porous, regular cleaning is necessary to prevent mold and dirt from building up. [1] The cleaning method does vary slightly depending on the type of concrete you're working with, but proper maintenance will keep your floor clean and fresh, and help increase its longevity in your home, garage, shop, or workplace.[2] [Edit]Preparing Any Concrete Surface - Gather your cleaning equipment. To do a basic cleaning of any concrete floor and to remove stains, you will need some basic cleaning supplies, including:
- A broom and duster (or a vacuum)
- A nylon-bristled brush for scrubbing stains
- Dish soap and water to remove stains
- Trisodium phosphate, laundry bleach, and detergent to remove mildew
- Kitty litter or cornstarch to remove grease stains
- Degreaser to remove tire marks
- Bleach, ammonia, or hydrogen peroxide for stubborn stains
- Clear the floor. Remove any furniture, decorations, rugs or mats, shoes, and anything else that's on the floor. Move everything out of the room so you're not cleaning around furniture or constantly having to move furniture around to clean.
- Sweep and dust the floor. Get up all large dirt and debris with the broom, and then go over the surface again with a duster to remove fine particles and dust.[3] Dusting should be done daily, and sweeping or vacuuming on a weekly basis.
- Spot clean stains. For regular food and beverage stains, scrub the area with hot, soapy water.[4] Use one to two tablespoons (15 to 30 ml) of a mild dish soap or Castile soap, diluted into a half-gallon (1.9 liters) of water. For oil or oil-based stains, wet the area with water and cover the stain with dish soap. Dip a brush in warm water and scrub the area to work up a lather. Blot the suds with a rag or towel and rinse it down with clean water.[5]
- To remove mildew, mix one ounce (28.3 grams) each of laundry detergent and trisodium phosphate with one quart (946.4 ml) laundry bleach and three quarts (2.8 liters) of water. Scrub the area with a soft brush and rinse with clean water.[6]
- To remove tire marks (in a garage), spray the area with water and apply a degreaser. Let sit for three to four hours, scrub with a brush, and rinse.[7]
- To remove grease, spread kitty litter or cornstarch over the area and let it sit for about three days. After you've let it sit, vacuum or sweep up the kitty litter and dispose of it in accordance with the type of grease it was (such as in the garbage or through a proper recycling facility).[8]
- Use stronger cleaners for tough stains on plain concrete. If your concrete floor is plain and you don't have to worry about damaging a finish, you can use harsher cleaners like bleach, ammonia, and hydrogen peroxide to clean stubborn stains.[9] Dilute one part cleaner in three parts water and spray on the affected area. Let it sit for about 20 minutes, and then scrub with a brush. Rinse the area with clean water.
- Always wear gloves and proper protective gear when using harsh cleaners, and make sure the room is well-ventilated.
[Edit]Cleaning Stamped or Polished Concrete - Gather your supplies. You will need a mop and large bucket, warm water, and a mild, pH neutral cleaner.[10] Do not use ammonia, bleach, or any other highly acidic or alkaline cleaner, as it may damage the concrete finish.[11] Good neutral cleaners to use include:
- Mild dish soaps
- Castile soap
- Neutral stone cleaner
- pH neutral floor cleaners or detergents
- Fill a large bucket with water. Use about one gallon (3.8 liters) of warm water. Stir in one-eighth to one-quarter cup (30 to 60 ml) of mild soap or pH neutral cleaner (or the amount recommended by the manufacturer).
- Dunk a clean mop into the cleaning solution. Once it's saturated, wring it out thoroughly. The mop should be only slightly damp for cleaning the floor: you want the water to dry quickly, and don't want excess water sitting on the concrete.
- Mop the floor in small sections. Start in a corner farthest from the door and make your way toward the door, cleaning small areas at a time. As you mop, frequently re-dip the mop in the water and wring it out thoroughly. Consider having an oscillating fan blow air into the room to help the floor dry quicker.
- Remove excess soap or cleaner. When you have cleaned the entire floor, dump out your cleaning water, rinse the mop and bucket, and refill the bucket with clean, warm water. Mop the floor again in the same way with the clean water, dunking and thoroughly wringing out the mop often.[12]
- Start at the farthest corner and work toward the door again, working in small sections.
[Edit]Cleaning a Garage Floor or Exterior Concrete - Gather your cleaning supplies. You will need a power washer, a push broom with stiff, nylon bristles, and a cleaning product, such as trisodium phosphate or other concrete cleaner. You can use a regular garden hose if you don't have a pressure washer. Use the hose on full power with a high-powered nozzle.
- A pressure washer is recommended for this kind of concrete cleaning as it will do a better job. Pressure washers can be rented from home and garden or building stores.
- Use a regular scrubbing brush with nylon bristles if you don't have a push broom.
- Remove any moss or roots that have grown on exterior concrete. Pull them up with your hands and then sweep, hose down, or pressure wash the surface to remove dirt and debris.[13]
- Spray the concrete. Open your garage door if applicable. Start at the end closest to the house and work your way toward the garage door or lawn. Use the pressure washer or hose and spray the floor in broad, sweeping strokes to remove dirt and debris. Be sure to spray corners, cracks, and crevices as well.
- Cover the floor with a dusting of cleaner. Place your broom at one end of the garage or patio, and begin sprinkling cleaner on the floor starting at the other end, working your way toward the broom. Make sure the floor is still wet when you do this.[14]
- Scrub the floor. Use your broom or brush to work the cleaner into the entire floor surface and lift out any dirt, grime, and debris.[15]
- Rinse the concrete with clean water. Starting at the inside and working your way toward the open door or lawn, power wash away any excess cleaner and debris. Leave the door open and allow the floor to dry.
[Edit]Protecting Concrete Floors - Clean spills immediately. This will stop people from slipping on the floor and prevent staining. Wipe up spills with a clean rag or towel as soon as they occur.[16]
- Seal the floor. A high-quality sealant will last a few years, so you should re-seal your floor every three to four years.[17] Sealing your concrete floor will protect it from scuffs and stains.
- Choose a sealant that's right for your concrete surface.
- Use water-based sealants for indoor flooring.
- Wax the floor. Not only will a wax finish protect the floor from dirt build-up, stains, and abrasion, but it will also protect the sealant underneath so it lasts longer.[18]
- Apply floor wax in a thin layer and spread it out with a rayon or microfiber mop. Re-apply every year or so.[19]
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