| How to Kill Vines Posted: 01 Jun 2018 01:00 AM PDT Removing vines from your garden can be challenging, but there are many different strategies to try! You can kill vines by cutting them down and removing their root systems, or by smothering them with mulch. Vinegar and boiling water are also good, non-toxic options for getting rid of vines. For stubborn, persistent vines, use a systemic herbicide to attack the roots and destroy them for good! EditRemoving the Vines Manually - Cover up to protect your skin from the vines. Some species of vines, such as English ivy, may cause irritation to your skin. Protect yourself by wearing long sleeves, pants, and shoes to cover your skin when you handle vines. You should also wear thick gardening gloves.[1]
- Proper attire may also protect you from scratches and bug bites while you work.
- Pry away climbing vines from trees or buildings with a sturdy, flat tool. To avoid damage to the trees or other surfaces they are clinging to, remove vines by using a long, flat object to pry it away. Gently insert a screwdriver, crowbar, or similar tool between each vine and the surface it is clinging to. Slowly pull the vine up and away.[2]
- If you are removing vines from a tree, pull them off slowly to avoid damaging the tree's bark.
- Cut away vines with pruning shears or a pruning saw. Cut off climbing vines at a height of . Remove the vines underneath the cut, leaving the top parts to eventually die off without a connection to their root system. Use pruning shears or a razor tooth pruning saw to sever the vines, depending on their thickness.[3]
- Dispose of all vine cuttings right away as new plants can grow easily from cut stems.
- Pull or dig the base of the vines out of the ground by hand. If the vine is still fairly small, you should be able to track down the roots. Pull the roots out by hand or use a shovel or trowel to dig the root system out completely. Remove the underground roots, bulbs, and tubers completely to effectively kill the vines.[4]
- For best results, do this when the soil is moist and soft. You will be able to move more of the dirt around this way, giving you better access to the root system.
- Note that you might need to dig out vine seedlings regularly for a few months or years to keep the problem under control.
- Mow vines growing on the ground to kill them easily. Groundcover vines can be controlled by cutting them down with a lawn mower. Use a gas-powered machine that will be powerful enough to cut through tough vines instead of just rolling over them. Doing this at least 3-4 times a year will slowly kill the spreading vine.[5]
- Electric or rotary mowers are more likely to run over vines than to cut them.
- If you want to reduce the hard labor of killing vines, this is the best option to try.
EditUsing Non-Toxic Materials to Kill the Vines - Smother the vine with mulch. Vines require light, water, and air to survive and grow. Cover the vine with mulch, which is made up of any materials you can use to cover the area where the vines grow. Cover the area thoroughly to deprive the vines of enough light, sun, and air to kill them off within a few weeks.[6]
- Try to use biodegradable mulch materials like grass cuttings, tree bark, old newspaper, or dead leaves so that they can decompose into the soil after killing the vines.
- Alternatively, you can cover the vines with plastic sheeting. This will rob the plant of oxygen and build up intense heat, which is likely kill off the vine after a few weeks.
- Spray the vines with a vinegar mixture. Fill a spray bottle or garden sprayer with a mixture of 80% water and 20% white vinegar. Douse the vines with the mixture. Check their condition after 2-3 days and pull out any dead vines. Repeat the process if necessary.[7]
- Be careful to avoid spraying other plants with the mixture.
- Pour boiling water onto the root crown of the vines. Cut away the bulk of the surface vines with pruning shears and discard them. Use a shovel or trowel to dig into the ground until you reach the vine root. Pour of boiling water directly onto the top of the root system, where the roots meet the base of the plant. [8]
EditApplying a Systemic Herbicide - Buy a triclopyr herbicide to kill thick, woody vines. Systemic herbicides enter the vines' circulatory system through their leaves, then kill off their roots. Use a triclopyr herbicide, the strongest type of systemic herbicide, to kill vines that are strong and thick. This will penetrate the tough exterior of the vines easily.[9]
- Buy herbicide at a local garden center or hardware store.
- Use a glyphosate herbicide to tackle herbaceous vines. Vines that are fine and plant-like can be removed with a milder systemic herbicide. Apply a glyphosate herbicide to the vine leaves to be absorbed into the circulatory system. Herbaceous vines are not as durable as woody vines and can be killed without need for a more intense poison.[10]
- Spray isolated vine leaves with systemic herbicide. If you are killing vine leaves on the ground or on a building that are not touching other plants, spray them with herbicide. Apply enough herbicide to completely wet the foliage of the vine. Avoid dousing the leaves enough to cause runoff onto the ground, which may damage the soil and the roots of nearby plants.[11]
- Do not spray vines growing on trees or other plants.
- It may take several weeks or months to kill the vines depending on their thickness and how developed their root system is.
- Multiple applications may be necessary.
- Cover your other plants with plastic bags or plastic sheeting while you spray. Protect your garden from vine-killing chemicals by covering them completely with thick plastic. To protect their roots, cover the soil surrounding them as much as possible. Ground the plastic with large rocks, bricks, or stakes while you spray.[12]
- Remove the plastic 2-3 hours after applying the herbicide.
- Cut away large vines and treat the stumps with herbicide. Larger, well-established vines are likely to be intertwined with other plants or firmly planted on building or trees. Cut away these vines with a pruning saw or shears and leave a stump. Apply an undiluted triclopyr herbicide directly to the freshly cut stump.[13]
- The treated stump should die within a week or 2 after the herbicide attacks the root system.
EditThings You'll Need EditPhysically Removing the Vines - Gloves
- Protective clothing
- Trowel or shovel
- Pruning shears or pruning saw
- Lawn mower
EditUsing Non-Toxic Materials to Kill the Vines - Mulch
- Plastic sheeting
- Vinegar
- Boiling water
EditUsing a Systemic Herbicide - Systemic herbicide (glyphosate or triclopyr)
- Plastic bags or sheeting
- Rocks or bricks
- Pruning saw or shears
- Do not put vine cuttings in your compost pile as they will take root and grow there.
- Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol after using them.
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Walk Down the Aisle Posted: 31 May 2018 05:00 PM PDT The walk down the aisle is one of the most beautiful and exciting moments of your big day, but it can seem daunting. If you're worried about tripping or messing up your walk, you can ease your fears by practicing the walk ahead of time. With a little effort, your trip down the aisle will look absolutely flawless! EditWalking as a Bride - Practice walking down the aisle before the big day. The easiest way to calm your pre-wedding jitters is by practicing your walk. Set up a pretend aisle in a hallway and put on your processional music to perfect your pace and posture![1]
- It's okay if your practice aisle is a little shorter than your normal aisle. The important part is making sure that you're balanced and confident as you're walking!
- Walk around in your heels, if you're wearing them down the aisle. It's important to break in your heels before the wedding and make sure that you're comfortable in them. Put them on while you're walking around the house, and make sure you're taking small steps and are able to maintain good posture while walking.
- Be sure to practice going up and down stairs, which you may have to do to get to the location of the ceremony.
- If your wedding is outdoors, practice walking in your shoes on various surfaces. Be careful not to get them dirty, though!
- If you're having trouble with walking in your heels, bring a backup pair with a shorter heel for the day of the wedding.
- Stand up as straight as possible to show your confidence. As you're preparing to walk down the aisle, put your shoulders back and take a few deep breaths to loosen up. Raise your chin to avoid looking at the ground when you walk and to appear confident.[2]
- You can practice your good posture in the mirror before the wedding to make sure you don't look stiff.
- Hold your bouquet slightly lower than what feels natural. Many brides want to hold their bouquet close to their chest, but that can be very unflattering and make your walk more difficult. Place your hands at waist level, creating a diamond shape between your arms and your body.[3]
- Your elbows should be directly parallel to the thinnest part of your waist to achieve the perfect look.
- Have your escort link their arm into yours. Traditionally, the bride will position herself on the escort's arm. However, since you're holding your bouquet, have your escort wrap their arm around yours once you've positioned yourself. It'll be more comfortable for you while you're walking.[4]
- If there's a big height difference between you and your escort, you might ask them to wrap their arm around your back, instead of linking arms. This is more comfortable but is still endearing and provides support as you walk.
- Don't be afraid to lean on your escort slightly if you need some support! That's what they're there for.
- Walk at a pace just slightly slower than what's normal for you. You might think you have to do the "step-together-step-together" traditional bridal walk. Luckily, most brides choose to walk like normal, albeit slightly slower than their regular pace. You can even choose to use the beat of your processional music to set the rhythm for your walk.[5]
- Even if your music is extremely slow, try to walk at a medium pace. That way, you can enjoy the beautiful moment, but you aren't stalling the ceremony.
- Use the hem of your dress to prevent tripping. As you're walking, make sure that your dress hem touches the top of your foot after each step. This will ensure that you don't step on your dress. If you don't feel the hem of the dress on your foot, it's possible that you're stepping on it, but don't panic! Just pause for a moment and use your foot to move the dress forward.[6]
- You can work with your seamstress to make sure that the hem of your dress falls at the right length for walking.
- If your dress is extra long, consider holding it up slightly in one of your hands while you walk. This gives a very "princess" look as you're making your way to the altar!
- Smile and acknowledge your guests as you make your way down the aisle. It can be uncomfortable to have everyone looking at you and potentially taking pictures. Don't be afraid to smile and make eye contact with your friends and family while you walk. After all, they're here to see you![7]
- Smiling is also a great way to prevent yourself from crying before you get to the altar. If you're an emotional person, try to avoid looking at people who are already crying. Your emotions will be running high, but remember this is a very happy moment!
- Thank your escort at the end of the aisle. Your escort will likely be someone who is extremely close to you. When you get to the end of the aisle, turn to them and hug them before continuing to the altar. They deserve a special moment for supporting and helping you through your walk.[8]
- Some brides have two escorts, which is completely normal, especially in the US. In that case, turn to each of them individually at the end of the aisle and thank them with a hug or kiss.
EditOrganizing Your Processional - Lead the processional with the mother of the bride. Traditionally, the mother of the bride will kick off the wedding by walking down the aisle and taking her seat in the front row. Sometimes, the parents of the other partner will join her when walking down the aisle.[9]
- If the mother of the bride is escorting the bride down the aisle or won't be at the wedding, you can start the processional with the parents of the other partner, the grandparents of the couple, or the officiant of the wedding.
- Pair members of the wedding party together to walk down the aisle. Many couples choose to have their wedding party walk down the aisle in pairs. This saves time and works well especially if there's an even number of people. It's best to pair couples up based on height to avoid large height disparities that can make walking together difficult.[10]
- The maid of honor and best man are normally the last pairing of the wedding party to walk down the aisle.
- Have your partner walk out any time before you. Your partner can choose to walk down the aisle or enter the room from a side door to take their place at the altar. They can choose to come out at any point in the processional, as long as it's before you make your way down the aisle.[11]
- Often, the officiant of the wedding and your partner will enter together and walk to the altar.
- Position the flower girl and ring bearer just before the bride. To signify the end of the procession and the arrival of the bride, send the flower girl and ring bearer out just before the bride. The adorable kids will entertain the wedding-goers as the bride prepares herself for the walk down the aisle.[12]
- Usually, the flower girl is the last one to walk before the bride, and she throws flower petals to line the aisle for the bride!
- If the ring bearer is too young to be trusted with the real rings, you can give him decoys to deliver to the groom at the altar.
- Be careful when walking, but don't overthink it! Your guests will be able to tell if you're anxious or scared of falling.
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Pick a Cockatiel Posted: 31 May 2018 09:00 AM PDT Cockatiels make great pets for dedicated animal lovers because they are easy to handle and train. However, picking the right cockatiel is important if you want a healthy pet. Start by finding a reputable, knowledgeable seller with a clean shop. The ideal age to adopt a cockatiel is 12 weeks old, but make sure the bird has been fully weaned first. Healthy cockatiels will have bright eyes and thick, smooth feathers. If you want a cockatiel with unique coloring, look into the Lutino and Cinnamon varieties! EditFinding a Reputable Seller - Contact an avian veterinarian or local bird club for solid references. Avian vets and local bird clubs can often tell you about the best bird breeders and pet shops in your area. Run an online search to get their contact information, then get in touch by calling or emailing them.[1]
- Try using search terms like "avian vets in Austin" or "local birds clubs + your zip code" to find good reference sources.
- You can also get in touch with the National Cockatiel Society for helpful information by visiting https://www.ncscockatiels.org/.[2]
- Research local pet shops and breeders to do your own investigating. Start by running an internet search on the pet shops and bird breeders in your area. Look for sellers with professional looking websites featuring clear images of the birds and shop interior. Check that the shop interior looks clean and well-lit.[3]
- For example, you could use search terms like, "best bird breeders in Boston" or "cockatiel sellers in Fresno."
- Check out customer reviews to get more insight about the seller you're researching.
- Make sure the shop looks clean and the birds are well-groomed. Once you've chosen a location, visit the site in person. Take a look around the shop to see if everything is clean and tidy. Do the birds look happy and well-groomed? Are the cages brightly lit and well-maintained? Do the birds have plenty of room to move around?[4]
- If the bird cages are dirty or cramped, or if there's a bad odor coming from the cages, look elsewhere for your new pet. If the birds themselves look ragged or have bald spots, try a different shop.
- Examine the droppings at the bottom of the bird cages. If they look discolored or runny, it could be a sign that the birds are sick.
- Cockatiels kept in overcrowded and dirty conditions are more susceptible to disease.
- Gauge how knowledgeable the shop owner is by asking questions. Find out what the birds are being fed and inquire about worming and other health issues. Ask about the ages and temperaments of the available birds. Solid, knowledgeable breeders and shop owners should be able to give you some information about each cockatiel's temperament.[5]
- Find out if the pet shop isolates their baby cockatiels from the public. This is important because babies have extremely weak immune systems.
- Ask specific questions like, "What brand of pellets do you feed the birds? Have you introduced them to a variety of foods? Have the young birds been socialized? Which ones have the friendliest temperament?"[6]
- Avoid purchasing cockatiels from a bird mart or bird fair. Cockatiels sold at crowded bird marts and bird fairs are exposed to many other birds every week. Cockatiels in these environments are often weak, sick, or diseased. It's not unusual for them to die a week or 2 after bringing them home.[7]
- Stick to reputable pet shops and bird breeders to find the healthiest, strongest pet cockatiel.
EditSelecting a Healthy Bird - Get a fully weaned young bird that's about 12 weeks old. Cockatiels are usually weaned by the time they're 10 weeks old, but they need a week or 2 to adjust after that happens. Weaned cockatiels are easiest to train when they're about 12 weeks old. If you hear a young cockatiel making a screeching sound and you don't see it eating on its own, it probably isn't fully weaned.[8]
- Ask the breeder or shop owner if the bird eats and drinks independently.
- Choose a young bird that has been hand-fed and socialized. Birds that have been hand-fed are usually the best options because they'll be quite tame already and they won't be afraid of humans. Ask the breeder how the birds are fed and if they've been socialized yet.[9]
- Avoid parent-fed cockatiels that haven't been socialized. These birds will probably be afraid of people and you'll have to tame the bird yourself, which isn't easy.[10]
- Confirm that the young birds weren't subject to inbreeding. Unfortunately, inbreeding can be an issue with cockatiels. Ask the shop owner or breeder about the bird's parents. Cockatiels that have been inbred are very likely to have genetic weaknesses and physical problems.[11]
- Look for feathers that are thick, glossy, and smooth. Be sure to check under the bird's wings and the belly, too. Keep an eye out for bald patches, which indicate poor nutrition or sickness. Feathers with ragged edges are not a good sign. If the tips of the feathers look ragged and blackened, the cockatiel is either stressed or sick.[12]
- The feathers should look clean and unstained by droppings. Look under the tail at the bird's vent area, too.
- Check for bright eyes and a smooth beak. Inspect the bird's tiny eyes and make sure there's no redness or discharge. The eyes will be almost black and should look bright and clear. Check the nose for discharge and blockages. Confirm that the beak has a smooth surface without growths or rough spots. Look closely and make sure the beak opens and closes evenly.[13]
- Avoid birds with red, puffy eyes.
- The bird's face should not look sticky in any way.
- Choose a cockatiel that is alert and upright. Find a bird that is moving around actively and looks lively. Do not pick a bird that looks lazy or sleepy. Avoid birds that are sleeping on the bottom of the cage or in a corner. These are red flags that the bird is sick. Avoid birds that look puffed up and have their eyes closed. Check that the bird is steady—trembling is not a good sign.[14]
- Some young birds tremble when they're nervous, but usually trembling indicates some kind of illness.
- Ask for a list of vaccinations and request a written receipt. The store owner should be able to provide you with a list of recent vaccinations against things like the polyomavirus, or they should give you health records of some kind for your chosen bird.[15] It's also a good idea to find out if there's a return policy and get the related details. Obtain a written receipt for your purchase, just in case.[16]
- Some shops may provide you with a 2-week guarantee of the bird's health, or some other form of health guarantee. Ask the owner or breeder for more information
EditChoosing a Color Variety - Go with the classic, gray-feathered cockatiel for the most affordable option. The classic cockatiel has mostly gray feathers on its body, with patches of white here and there. It also has a vibrant yellow crest on its head and tiny orange patches on its cheeks. These are typically the most affordable options, whereas some of the rarer cockatiels with color mutations will be more expensive.[17]
- Classic gray cockatiels are usually the hardiest and most healthy options!
- Go for a Lutino if you want a white or yellow cockatiel. Lutinos retain the classic orange patches on the cheeks, but its feathers are all white with a slightly yellowish cast. Lutinos have black eyes, just like the classic gray varieties.[18]
- Lutinos are often born with a genetic bald spot that they'll retain their whole lives.
- Lutinos are known to experience night fright and may be prone to fatty liver syndrome.
- Get an albino cockatiel for a unique-looking bird. Albino cockatiels are covered in completely white feathers and have red eyes. They look really neat, but keep in mind that albinos tend to be a little weaker than the classic gray cockatiels, so your bird may be more susceptible to illness and early death.[19]
- If you get multiple albino birds, don't breed 2 albinos together. The resulting babies will be born weak and they won't be hardy or healthy pets.
- Get a Cinnamon variety for a brownish-red bird. Cinnamon cockatiels are very similar to the classic grays, but instead of having mostly gray feathers, Cinnamons have pretty, brownish-red feathers. All of the other physical characteristics are the same as the classic grays, including the yellow crest, black eyes, and orange cheeks.[20]
- Go with a Whiteface variety if you want a totally white bird. Whiteface cockatiels don't have the characteristic yellow crests or orange patches on their cheeks. They also don't have the yellowish cast of the Lutino variety. Instead, they are completely white all over their body. The eyes are black like the classic grays.[21]
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