| How to Store Art Posted: 15 Jun 2018 01:00 AM PDT Whether you collect art as a hobby or have a studio of your own, you may eventually need to place your artwork in storage. To properly protect and store your artwork, you have to choose a storage environment and packing materials that won't cause premature aging or damage. Handle all work with care. EditSelecting a Suitable Location - Pick a room that's as dark as possible. Light is one of artwork's biggest enemies. It can cause all sorts of damage, so you want to store your art in a dark place. Choose a windowless room, such as a finished basement or study, to store your artwork.[1]
- Keep the room at a temperature of about . For most artworks, a steady, cool temperature is ideal. More extreme climates can crack paint, warp or yellow paper, and foster mold growth.[2]
- If the room you've selected goes through drastic changes in temperature during different seasons, you should pick another location to store your art.
- If you are not storing art in your home, your next-best option is a storage unit. Give nearby storage companies a call and ask if they have temperature-controlled units available.
- If you have a local art gallery near you, you can call and ask them for recommended storage services.[3]
- Maintain a humidity of 50% in the storage room. Materials like paint and wood are especially sensitive to humidity. Keeping a constant, moderate level of humidity in the storage area will keep your artwork from changing shape or getting moldy.[4] You can moderate the room's humidity using a humidifier or dehumidifier.[5]
EditPreparing Your Art for Storage - Put on gloves before touching any art. Some art materials are hypersensitive, even to the natural oils on your fingertips. Wearing cotton or powder-free latex gloves when handling your art can prevent you from accidentally causing it harm.[6]
- Check to see if all works are dry. If you're storing any paintings, sculptures, or ceramics, make sure they're completely dry before handling. Some artwork, such as oil paintings, can take up to an entire year to dry.[7]
- Clean your art. Cleaning artwork before storage will help extend its lifespan. A dry microfiber cloth, rag, or paper towel is enough to clean most artwork. Gently sweep it across frames, glass panes, ceramics, and acrylic paintings. You can brush over painted surfaces, drawings, and mixed media with a wide, soft makeup or paint brush.[8]
- Clean metal sculptures or frames with an oil-based polish and buff with a dry rag.[9]
- You can use masking tape to gently lift dust off of an oil painting.[10]
- Protect framed paintings with acid-free tissue. Acid is in many paper and packing materials, and will age art much faster and can change its color. Using acid-free tissue, wrap around the painting to protect it and give it breathing room. Then roll it into a padding, like bubble wrap, to protect the frame.
- You can wrap paintings with plastic wrap instead of tissue, but you risk sealing humidity inside. If your art is part of a valuable collection, steer clear of it.[11]
- Group smaller prints together in a folder. Put acid-free paper or tissue between the prints if they are unprotected. Slip your prints into sturdy folders, with about 10-15 in each.[12]
- Seal unframed paper in glassine. Glassine is a material used by archivists to preserve unframed artwork and documents. You can purchase glassine online, at a printmaking shop, or in an art supply store. Cut a sheet of glassine about two times the size of each piece. Wrap it as you might a present, then tape it facedown onto a piece of foamcore.[13]
- You also have the option to roll your work into the glassine, but it may be more difficult to flatten once you remove it from storage.
- Wrap sculptures and other 3D objects in bubble wrap. When preparing to store sculptures, wrap them in bubble wrap. Use multiple layers if necessary. Tape the bubble wrap in place.
- Place all wrapped artwork into boxes. You should try to give each item its own sturdy cardboard box, though you can place folders horizontally in a box together. Once you've put your art in boxes, stuff the rest of each box with newspaper to prevent the art from shifting around.[14]
EditHousing Your Art - Handle one piece at a time. You don't want to ruin all of your hard work and preparation by trying to store it too quickly. Move your artwork piece by piece when putting it into storage.[15]
- Label and keep a record of your stored art. Using tape and a permanent marker, label all the boxes of artwork. Include each work's title and artist on your label. Create a spreadsheet or written record of what art you've stored and where it's located.[16]
- Keep art off of the ground. You never want your artwork touching the storage room floor. Place smaller boxes on shelves or in drawers. Larger boxes can be elevated on racks or risers.[17]
- Stand paintings on their sides in boxes or on storage racks. You want to avoid putting any pressure on paintings, so don't stack them flat. Stand them on their sides and place them next to one another as you would if you were putting books on a bookshelf.[18]
- Check your art for damage every few months or so. Even if you've set up perfect conditions for your artwork, problems and subtle changes can still arise in the storage environment. Checking in on it is the best method to catch any potential issues early on. Take a look at your collection once in a while make sure it's performing well and hasn't changed or had any unwelcome visitors (e.g. pests, mold).[19]
- Look for these signs of pests in your storage area: entry or exit holes, fur, fallen particles from feeding, droppings, or cocoon cases.[20]
- Leave traps of your choice once you've found signs of infestation.
- Mold will appear as fine webbing, or clusters of spotty or fuzzy material. If your collection feels damp or smells musty, this can also indicate mold. Reduce the humidity level in the room, then go online or consult an expert for how to appropriately handle the variety of mold that has invaded.[21]
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Dye Buzzed Hair Posted: 14 Jun 2018 05:00 PM PDT The buzzcut is a popular, low-maintenance style. If you want to give your cut a little more edge, consider dyeing it a different color. The benefit to dyeing buzzed hair is that you can experiment with new colors every 1 to 2 months. There will be some damage, but it won't be very noticeable due to the length--and you will end up buzzing it all off again 2 weeks later! EditBleaching Your Hair - Decide what color you want to dye your hair. This will determine whether or not you need to bleach it first. If you are going for a darker shade than your own, you do not need to bleach your hair and can go right on to the dyeing portion. If you are going a lighter shade, however, you will need to bleach first.
- If you have light hair and are dyeing it darker, click here to continue.
- If your hair is blonde and you are dyeing it a cool color, like purple or blue, it may be a good idea to tone your hair first. Click here to learn more.
- Cover your skin, clothing, and counter. Put on an old shirt you won't mind staining, then cover your shoulders with an old towel. Lay down some newspaper across your counter. If you want to, you can pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves as well.
- The bleach will be coming into contact with your scalp anyway, so the gloves are not absolutely necessary.
- Mix 1 part bleach with 2 parts 20 volume developer. Get a packet of hair bleach and 20 volume developer. Measure out 1 part bleach and 2 parts 20 volume developer. Mix the two together in a non-metal bowl with a non-metal spoon.[1]
- Prepare enough bleach to saturate your hair.
- Some bleach kits come with a little scoop. Use that to measure the bleach and developer.
- Apply a thin layer of bleach to your hair, then wait 15 minutes. If you're wearing gloves, you can apply the bleach with your hands. Alternatively, use a tinting brush. Don't worry about being too meticulous here. Simply apply a light, even coat of bleach, then wait 15 minutes. The goal is to cover as much of your hair as quickly as possible.[2]
- This initial coat of bleach will ensure that your hair lightens evenly.
- Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap to protect your surroundings.
- If you have very light hair, you may only need to wait 5 to 10 minutes. Once you notice your hair starting to lighten, you're ready for the second coat of bleach.
- Apply more bleach and wait another 30 minutes. Do not rinse the bleach out. Simply take the shower cap off (if you put it on earlier), and apply a thick, generous coat of bleach. Use enough so that you can't see a single strand of hair sticking out of the bleach. Once you have it in, wait up to 30 minutes for the bleach to process.[3]
- Again, cover your hair with a plastic shower cap while the bleach processes.
- If you have light-colored hair to begin with, you may not need to wait the full 30 minutes. If you like the level of lightness your hair reaches, you are done!
- Wash the bleach out with cool water and shampoo. Rinse the bleach out with cool water first, then use some shampoo. You haven't dyed your hair yet, so you can use any type of shampoo you want. A mild, moisturizing shampoo would be the best, however, because it will make your hair feel nice and soft.[4]
- It's a good idea to use a purple or blue shampoo after you bleach your hair. This will help tone down any brassy, yellow, or orange tints that remain in your hair.
EditToning Your Hair - Determine whether you need to tone your hair. Dye is translucent, so it only adds to whatever color is already there. Take a look at your hair and note the color. Is it silver, yellow, or brassy? Next, take a look at the color you are going to dye it. Will this color mix well with your current hair color? If not, you need to tone! For example:[5]
- Warm colors, like warm pink and peach already have orange in them, so if your hair came out brassy, you don't need to tone it.
- Cool colors, such as cool pink, purple, and blue need a silver base. If your hair came out brassy or yellow, you'll have to tone it.
- Some colors mix well with yellow because they already contain yellow--such as green or orange. In this case, you don't need to tone it.
- Protect your skin, clothing, and counter. Toner has a small amount of dye in it, which is what helps cancel out the yellow or orange tones in your hair. As such, it will stain clothing, skin, and hair. Put on an old shirt you don't mind getting dirty, or drape an old towel around your shoulders. Cover your counter with newspaper and pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves.
- There is no need to apply petroleum jelly to the skin around your hairline, ears, and neck.
- Mix up your toner with volume 20 developer. Purchase a bottle of toner and some 20 volume developer. Mix the two together following the proportions recommended on the toner. As with bleach and dye, use a non-metal bowl and non-metal spoon.[6]
- If you can't find a toner, you can use a toning shampoo instead.
- If you can't find either, add a tiny amount of purple dye to white conditioner instead.
- Apply the toner to your hair. You can do this with your gloved hands or with a tinting brush. Be sure to apply the toner liberally to your hair so that it coats every strand. If you don't do this, your hair won't tone evenly, which could result in an inconsistent dye job.[7]
- Cover your head with a plastic shower cap. This will help keep your surroundings clean during the next step.
- Allow the toner to process, then rinse it out. How long you wait depends on the type of toner that you are using and the amount of toning that you require. In most cases, expect to wait around 10 to 15 minutes. Once the time is up, hop into the shower and wash the toner out using cool water.[8]
- Keep rinsing until the water runs clear. If you need to, use some sulfate-free shampoo meant for color-treated hair.
- Touch up any over-toned areas with bleach for 2 to 3 minutes. If you left the toner on for too long, your hair may come out purple. Unless you are dyeing your hair purple, you may want to bleach these purple tints out. Dry your hair completely first, then apply bleach to it. Leave it on for 2 to 3 minutes, then wash it out with shampoo.[9]
- Prepare your bleach using 1 part bleach and 2 parts 20 volume developer.
- Apply the bleach with a tinting brush for more precision. You may not have to touch up all of your hair.
- Apply a deep-conditioning mask for 30 minutes. While not absolutely necessary, this will help make your hair nice and soft. If you plan on dyeing your hair, then you might want to hold off on the mask for now. If you are leaving it silver or white, however, then take a moment to apply a deep conditioning mask.[10]
- Make sure that you use a sulfate-free mask. Check the ingredients label to be sure.
- Cover your head with a plastic shower cap to help make the mask more effective. You can use the same shower cap that you used previously, but make sure it's clean!
EditDyeing Your Hair - Protect your skin, clothing, and counter against stains. Put on an old shirt and drape an old towel over your shoulders. Cover your counter with newspaper and pull on a pair of plastic dyeing gloves. There is no need to apply petroleum jelly to your hairline, neck, or ears; it will only make the job messier.
- It would be best if you wait 1 to 2 days before dyeing your hair to minimize damage. However, because your hair is so short, the damage won't be very noticeable.
- Prepare your dye, if needed. There are lots of different dyes available on the market. Most punk dyes come already mixed into developer and are ready to use straight from the jar. Other types of dyes need to be mixed into a 20 volume developer. You can even used a boxed dye kit.
- If you got a pre-mixed dye and it is too dark, mix a small amount of the dye into white conditioner. Use enough conditioner to saturate your hair.[11]
- Always prepare the dye in a non-metal bowl. Use a non-metal spoon to stir it.
- Apply the dye to your hair with a tinting brush. Start from the top of your head and work your way towards the back. Do your front hairline and the sides next. When you reach your ears, pull them forward so that you can get the hairs behind them.[12]
- Use the edge of the brush to do your hairline. Don't worry if you get dye on your skin; it will come off.
- Turn your back to the mirror, and hold a smaller mirror in front of you so that you can check your work in the back of your head.
- Cover your hair with a plastic shower cap and allow it to process. How long you let the dye process depends on the type of dye that you are using. Most pre-mixed punk dyes need 45 minutes while boxed kits need only 20 minutes. Check the label or instructions that came with your dye.[13]
- The plastic shower cap is not absolutely necessary, but it will help keep your surroundings clean. It also traps your body heat, which helps the dye process more effectively.
- Rinse the dye out with cool water, then follow up with conditioner. Do not use any shampoo, as this may cause the dye to fade. Simply rinse the dye out with cool to lukewarm water. Once the water runs clear, apply conditioner to your hair. Wait 2 to 3 minutes, then rinse the conditioner out.[14]
- Use a sulfate-free conditioner made for color-treated hair. If you are using a boxed dye kit, there may already be a packet of conditioner for you to use.
- Most of the dye on your skin should have come out during your shower. If it didn't, use a cotton ball soaked in an alcohol-based makeup remover to wipe it off.
EditMaintaining Your Hair - Trim your buzz cut every 2 weeks. At this length, even the smallest amount of regrowth will be obvious, so you will need to trim your hair more often than you regularly would. Because of how often you have to trim it, it would be a good idea to invest in a trimmer and learning how to buzz your own hair.[15]
- If your hair grows slowly, then you may be able to go 3-4 weeks between haircuts.
- Retouch your color every 2 to 4 weeks. Again, at this length, even the slightest amount of regrowth becomes visible. Unless you don't mind the frosted-tips look, you will need to redo the entire coloring process on your hair. This includes bleaching and toning as well.
- Bleaching will damage your hair, but at this length, it won't be as noticeable. Plus, you will eventually buzz it off.
- Cover your hair when stepping outside. This will not only keep your color from fading, but it will also protect your scalp from getting sunburned. If you don't like to wear hats, try a hood or scarf instead. You can also apply some sunscreen or UV protection spray.[16]
- A hat, scarf, or hood will help keep the color from fading the best.
- Wash your hair with cool water and color-safe products. This is the key to keeping your color bright and vibrant. Wash your hair with the coldest temperature you can withstand, and be sure to use shampoo and conditioner formulated for color-treated hair.[17]
- Limit yourself to washing your hair only once or twice per week. If you do need to wash your hair between then, stick to plain water.
- If you can't find products made for color-treated hair, use sulfate-free products instead. Sulfates are harsh cleaning agents that can cause hair dye to fade.
- Use a scalp cleansing shampoo when you change your hair color. When you trim your buzz cut, you'll likely end up cutting all of the dyed portions off and starting with virgin hair. This is a perfect opportunity to wash your scalp with a scalp cleansing shampoo, such as an anti-dandruff or scalp balancing shampoo.[18]
- If possible, use sulfate-free shampoo; sulfates can contribute to dryness.
- Don't wash your hair with scalp cleansing shampoo while it is still dyed, as the shampoo may remove the color.
- Consider using a scrub on your hair during this time as well. This will help remove the dead skin cells from our scalp.
- You don't have to bleach, tone, and dye your hair. You can just bleach your hair and leave it at that.
- Experiment with different colors. You'll have a fresh haircut every 2 to 4 weeks anyways.
EditThings You'll Need - Bleach
- Toner
- Dye
- 20 volume developer
- Non-metal bowl
- Non-metal spoon
- Tinting brush
- Shower cap
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Hang Shelves Without Nails Posted: 14 Jun 2018 09:00 AM PDT If you're living in an apartment, dorm, or similar place, you've probably run up against the dreaded "no modifications" rule that prevents you from fixing objects to your wall using nails. Never fear, though, as there's an easy way to hang things like shelves without giving up your security deposit. EditUsing Adhesive Mounting Strips - Get a shelf made of a light, hollow material. Unfortunately, fasteners like nails are necessary to hang up extremely heavy shelves made of dense, solid materials like steel or oak. However, you can use adhesive fasteners to hang up light, hollow shelves made of things like balsa wood. As a general rule, try to hang shelves that weigh or less.
- For safety, do not attempt to hang shelves with adhesive strips if they weigh over .
- Look for hollow floating shelves at furniture stores or light planks of wood at hardware stores.
- Purchase adhesive mounting strips. To hang up your shelf, you'll need to get strong adhesive mounting strips designed for pictures or other large objects. Before buying a set of strips, check their weight capacity to make sure they can support your shelf and any objects you want to put on it.[1]
- Purchase adhesive strips that have a sticky material on 1 side and a rough, Velcro-like gripping material on the other. Be aware that this is not the same type of material used for things like Command hooks.
- Popular adhesive strips include Command picture hanging strips, Scotch reclosable fasteners, and Velcro removable mounting strips. You can buy these products from most craft and office supply stores.
- For extremely small or light shelves, a moldable adhesive glue like Sugru may also work.
- Clean your shelf and wall with isopropyl alcohol. Dampen a fresh cleaning cloth with isopropyl alcohol. Then, gently rub the cloth against your wall and the mounting side of your shelf. Give the surfaces around 5 minutes to dry before attaching your adhesive strips.[2]
- Doing this will help remove grease, oil, and wax from the surfaces, making the adhesive strips easier to mount.
- Look for isopropyl alcohol at big-box and drug stores.
- Stick your strips to the shelf by pressing them down for 30 seconds. If they're not already attached, press the Velcro-style fastening sides of 2 of your mounting strips together. Then, remove the protective liner from 1 of the strips, press the newly-exposed adhesive side to your shelf's mounting area, and hold the connected strips down for about 30 seconds. Repeat this process with the rest of the strips.[3]
- Space your strips out evenly to give your shelf the greatest amount of hanging strength possible.
- Use staples to attach your strips to shelves made of wood.
- Hold your shelf to the wall for 30 seconds. Once you've attached the adhesive strips, remove the remaining strip liners and position your shelf along the wall. Then, press your shelf against the wall for 30 seconds to fix it in place.[4]
- If possible, attach adhesive strips to 2 adjacent sides of the shelf and hang it in a corner. This will give your shelf a greater amount of support.
- Remove your shelf and press each strip down for 30 seconds. Using slow, careful motions, pull on the edges of your shelf to peel it away from the wall. Each pair of strips should separate so that 1 side is attached to the wall and the other side is attached to the shelf. Then, push down on each individual adhesive strip for 30 seconds to make sure they adhere completely.[5]
- If any of the strips come off, fix a new strip to your shelf and repeat the attachment and removal process.
- Replace your shelf after 1 hour. Give your adhesive strips approximately 1 hour to set and solidify. Then, reattach your shelf by connecting the sets of adhesive strips together. As you let go of your shelf, watch it carefully to make sure it doesn't fall down.[6]
- Consider placing blankets or pillows below your shelf to catch it if it falls.
- Place light, durable objects on your shelf. Without firm fasteners like nails, your shelf probably won't be able to support heavy objects like textbooks or appliances. However, it should be able to hold small trinkets, light-weight electronics, and similar items.[7]
- Do not place glass objects or other fragile items on the shelf in case it falls down.
- If your shelf juts out from the wall by more than , place your objects near the back of the shelf to avoid ripping it away from the adhesive strips.
EditFinding Alternatives - Buy adhesive fixtures to hold up light objects. Before putting up a shelf to hold light objects like clothing, jewelry, and small electronics, consider buying an adhesive fixture instead. The most common types of adhesive fixtures are hooks and hangers, which you can find at most big-box stores. However, you can purchase a number of more unique fixtures online, including:[8]
- Adhesive rails, which are great for holding items like keys.
- Adhesive caddies, which can hold things like phones, kitchen spices, and bathroom supplies.
- Adhesive display ledges, which are perfect for showing off light knick-knacks and collectibles.
- Place adhesive strips on objects to stick them directly to the wall. Instead of hanging a shelf up to display a photo, painting, or other relatively flat object, consider attaching the object directly to your wall using adhesive strips. To apply the strips, rub the back of your object with isopropyl alcohol and give the surface about 5 minutes to dry. Then, adhere your strips to the corners of the object and fix the item to the wall just like you would a shelf.[9]
- Before attaching adhesive strips to a picture frame, make sure to remove the object's current hanging hardware.
- Check an adhesive strip set's load capacity before buying it to make sure the strips can hold up your painting.
- Purchase a free-standing shelf for more space and support. Sometimes, an adhesive-mounted shelf will simply not provide the load strength or storage space you need. In these cases, consider buying a free-standing shelving system like a bookshelf or storage rack.[10]
- You can find free-standing shelves at most big-box and furniture supply stores.
- To set up a free-standing shelf, follow the assembly instructions included with your purchase.
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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