| How to Pack Picture Frames for Shipping Posted: 09 Jul 2018 01:00 AM PDT Like all forms of art, picture frames require a little extra attention during the shipping process. Whether you're sending someone a gift, submitting your work to a gallery, or moving away, properly packing your picture frames will help ensure they arrive at their destination in 1 piece. EditProtecting the Glass - Grab a roll of artist tape. To help protect your frame throughout the shipping process, you'll cover it in a layer of artist or painters tape. That way, if it breaks during transit, the shattered shards will stick to the tape instead of falling onto the artwork. Do not use masking tape or similar high-tack adhesives since they are difficult to remove and can leave an annoying film on the frame.[1]
- Artist tape is available at most craft, home supply, and discount stores.
- Make a star pattern out of tape to protect small glass panels. Lay down 2 strips of artist tape over the glass in an X formation, with each piece stretching diagonally from 1 corner to the other. Then, lay down 2 more strips in the form of a cross or plus sign, with the tape stretching from the midpoint of 1 side to the midpoint of the other.[2]
- Create a grid pattern with tape to protect large glass panels. Lay down strips of vertical and horizontal artist tape over the entire sheet of glass. You can apply the strips in any order, but by the end they should cover every section of glass. For extra protection, lay the tape down in an overlapping grid pattern.[3]
- Do not place tape on the picture frame border. Tape can be particularly difficult to remove from a border and, in many cases, will create unnecessary damage. If you have extra tape at the end of a strip, either cut the ends off with scissors or fold the ends back on themselves and secure them with more tape.[4]
EditCovering the Frame - Wrap brown paper around the frame. Place a sheet of brown paper on a flat surface. Smooth out the paper, then set your picture frame on top of it facing down. Grab the long edges of the paper and pull them over the picture frame, securing them with artist tape. Then, fold the small edges of the paper in, pull them over the picture frame, and hold them in place with more tape.[5]
- You can purchase brown shipping paper at most craft and shipping supply stores.
- Use cardboard covers to protect the frame corners. Buy 4 protective cardboard corners, typically available at a craft supply or shipping store. If they do not come pre-built, put them together by following the instructions included with the purchase or printed on the corners themselves. Then, place a cardboard protector on every corner of your picture frame, better shielding them from impact damage.[6]
- Put a cardboard sheet on the top side of your picture frame. Grab a sheet of cardboard that is about the same size as your painting. Lay it over the top side of the picture frame so that the glass has an extra layer of defense. Though not necessary, you can secure it to the brown paper with artist tape if you wish.[7]
- Cover your picture frame with bubble wrap. Put down a piece of bubble wrap and set your picture frame on top of it. Grab the long ends of the the protective material and wrap them tightly around your frame, securing them with masking tape. Then, fold the short ends up over the frame and tape them down. For picture frames containing particularly valuable works of art, add 1 to 2 additional layers of bubble wrap.[8]
- Look for bubble wrap at discount, craft, and shipping supply stores.
EditBoxing the Frame - Get a slim cardboard shipping box that is slightly larger than your frame. Go to a shipping supply or craft store and buy a slim cardboard packing container. The box should be thick enough to withstand general wear and tear. If possible, get a box that is slightly larger than your picture frame, that way you can pad it for extra safety.[9]
- Put your picture frame in the box. If you're using a top opening box, put a layer of bubble wrap down, set your picture frame on it, and cover the frame with another layer of bubble wrap. If you're using a side-opening box, place a small tube of bubble wrap inside, slide your art in, then place another tube of wrap on top.[10]
- Fill any open space with bubble wrap. To keep your picture frame from shifting during transit, fill any empty areas with bubble wrap or a similar thick packing material. Put in enough bubble wrap that if you shake the box while it's closed you cannot feel the painting move.[11]
- Seal the box and reinforce the sides with tape. Close the lid of your box and secure the seam with masking tape. Then, wrap all 4 thin sides of the box with additional masking tape, making sure no area goes uncovered. The tape will help reinforce your box, making it less likely to bust open.[12]
EditThings You'll Need - Picture frame
- Artist and masking tape
- Scissors
- Brown paper
- Cardboard corners
- Cardboard sheet
- Bubble wrap
- Cardboard shipping box
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Frame Art Posted: 08 Jul 2018 05:00 PM PDT Frame your art so you can hang it on your walls and preserve the image. For paper prints, mount your artwork with a mat board, or float it inside of your frame. You can frame a canvas using canvas frame clips or offset clips. Line up your art inside your frame, clip the frame into place, and your artwork is ready to hang! EditMounting Your Artwork on a Mat - Use pre-cut mat board for an easy option. Purchase individual pre-cut mats or use the mat that came with your frame. Lay the mat over top of your artwork to make sure the size is correct. If you need to adjust the size, you can cut the mat as needed.[1]
- Most store-bought frames will include a mat and a sample photo. Take off your frame's backing, and remove the mat so you can mount your artwork to it.
- Use a custom-sized mat board for an individual, unique matting option. You can either get a custom mat cut for you at a frame shop or craft store, or you can cut your own.[2]
- If you want a professional framer to cut your mat, bring your frame and your artwork with you to the store. Ask the employees to help you cut a mat to a particular size.
- Cut your mat board so it is the same size as your frame. You can lay your frame on top of your mat to use it as a stencil. Trace the size of your frame onto your mat board, and use an X-ACTO knife to cut out all 4 sides.[3]
- If you do not cut all the way through with 1 motion, make 2 cuts with your blade for clean, thorough cuts.
- Measure your art to determine how large of a window to cut. You will need to cut a window into your mat board, if it isn't already pre-cut. Use a ruler to measure to the closest .[4]
- Trace the measurements of your art onto the back of your mat board. Make light but clear marks with a pencil. You will hide any pencil marks left over after you make your cuts by tracing onto the back.[5]
- Extend your lines beyond just your artwork area if you need help seeing where to end your measurements.
- You can also add a little room to the bottom of your mat for a more professional look. This is referred to as "weighing the bottom," a matting technique where you leave at the bottom so it is your thickest side.[6]
- Use a metal ruler and an X-acto knife to cut your mat board. Make sure your ruler is straight and completely parallel to your line. Cut all 4 lines using steady, firm pressure to create a window in your mat board.[7]
- Metal rulers tend to cut the most smooth and accurate lines.
- When you are approaching the end of your measurement line, cut with care so you don't cut too much of your mat board. Repeat for all 4 sides of your mat board.
- Check the alignment of your mat board and artwork. Flip over your mat board so it faces the front, and line it up with your artwork. Are the edges of your mat board straight? Is your image cropped correctly? If not, make adjustments as needed. You can cut more of your mat to display more of your art or to even out your edges.[8]
- Be careful to not over-trim your mat. You want your mat board to slightly overlap your artwork so the matting looks seamless and professional.
- Place a piece of tape on the back of your artwork and put your artwork face up. In order to make sure everything aligns properly, you will want to place the mat board over the artwork. Use enough tape so that your artwork will be properly secured.
- If you want to preserve your artwork long-term, use acid-free tape. Acid-free tape is will not cause damage or decay to your artwork.
- Lay your mat board over your artwork and press down. Press down firmly over where the tape is located to adhere the artwork to the mat board. If you only used one piece of tape, flip them aboard over and secure the top edge of the artwork to the mat board.
- You will only have to tape the top edge.
- Attach your matted art to a backing mat if you'd like. You can insert your matted art directly into your frame, or you can attach it to a backing mat for extra security. Use double sided tape to attach your matted art to a backing mat, or create "homemade" double sided tape by sticking 2 piece of tape together to create a crossed "X" shape.
- You can use the backing mat that came with your frame or another piece of mat board.
- A backing mat will keep your art in place and prevent it from potentially moving inside your frame.
- Move the hinges on the back of your frame out of the way. There are small metal or plastic hinges along your frame, holding the backing inside the frame. Move these to the side to unlock the frame using your fingers or a dull knife.
- You can also take off the frame backing and remove any artwork or mat board that came with it.
- Lay your matted artwork inside the frame and replace the hinges. There is an internal ledge inside your frame where you can place your art. Using your fingers or a tool, move the hinges back into place to secure the backing to the frame. Your frame is now ready to hang!
- If your frame came with a separate backing piece, place that inside the frame before you close up the frame.
EditFloating Your Artwork - Cut a piece of matboard to the size of your frame. You can use the backboard of your frame as a template. Use an X-acto knife and a metal ruler to make clean, crisp lines.[9]
- Cut a piece of foam core smaller than your art. Use a ruler to make your lines, and cut the foam core using a straight-edge razor.[10]
- Mount your art to the foam core using acid-free artist's tape. Take 1 piece of tape stick it to another piece of tape facing the opposite direction, to create a crossed "X" shape. Stick this to your foam board, so one end of the "X" sticks to the board and the other's adhesive side is facing upwards. Place your artwork over top, sticking it to the other side of the "X".[11]
- Make sure you cannot see any of the foam core after you place your art on top!
- Acid-free tape will keep your artwork in good condition for years to come.
- Tape your foam core in the center of your mat board. You can attach it with another "X" of tape. Measure your matboard from corner to corner to help you center it, if you need to. Place your art and foam core in the middle of your mat board, and smooth over the surfaces so the tape adheres to the matboard.[12]
- Measure and cut acrylic spacers to the size of your frame. Line up your acrylic spacers inside your frame's inner edge, and cut the spacers using wire cutters. Then, simply unpeel the covering from the adhesive side of your spacers and adhere your spacers directly to the glass of your frame.[13]
- Your spacers will help your art fit tightly inside your frame.
- You should have 4 acrylic spacers, 1 for each side.
- Put your floating artwork inside of your frame. You should be able to easily place the art inside of the frame. Then, place the backing to the frame over your artwork, and replace the back hinges using your fingers or a dull side of a knife.[14]
- Your artwork should appear to be "floating" above your mat board.
EditFraming Canvases - Use a thick, solid frame that matches the size of your canvas. Choose a thick, solid bordered frames that complement the style of art.[15]
- If you are hanging a classical painting, go with a traditional style frame, like dark wood or gold leaf.
- Other paintings will good best in sleek, clean frames. Choose a solid color that won't distract from the painting.
- Place your canvas inside of the frame face down. Your canvas should easily slide inside of your frame since they are the same size.[16]
- Use frame clips if your stretcher bar is . To install canvas clips, push the double-pointed end between the canvas' stretcher and the frame, and then push the clip down so it clips over top of the stretcher.[17]
- Use 1 clip for each side of your frame.
- Use offset clips if your stretcher bar is larger than . There are two small holes where you can add screws. Align the offset clip so 1 of these holes is on top of your canvas and the other is on your frame. Screw them in using a drill or screwdriver.[18]
- Use at least 1 offset clip for each side of your frame.
- Add more offset clips for extra support, especially for larger canvases.
EditThings You'll Need EditMounting Your Artwork on a Mat - Mat board
- Metal ruler
- X-acto knife
- Acid-free artist's tape
- Backing mat
- Frame
EditFloating Your Artwork - Foamcore
- Metal ruler
- X-acto knife
- Acid-free artist's tape
- Mat board
- Backing mat
- Acrylic spacers
- Frame
EditFraming Canvasses - Frame clips
- Offset clips
- Frame
EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Get Wrinkles Out of Tulle Posted: 08 Jul 2018 09:00 AM PDT Tulle is a great fabric because of its filmy, flowing qualities. Unfortunately, it can become wrinkled as it's stored. To remove the wrinkles, introduce moisture in the form of steam to relax the tulle. You can put the tulle in the bathroom and run a hot shower, wave a steam machine nozzle over the wrinkles, put the tulle in a cool dryer, or use steam from an iron to get the wrinkles out. Always use the lowest heat setting and never apply heat directly to the tulle. EditUsing Shower Steam - Hang the tulle on a hanger. If you're smoothing the tulle on a dress, hang the dress on a padded hanger. To get the wrinkles out of a tulle veil, attach the veil to a clip on a hanger.[1]
- For a tutu, hang it on a tutu hanger to ensure that it keeps its shape.
- Place the hanger in the bathroom. Hang the tulle item on a hook in your bathroom or on the bathroom door. Ensure that the steam can circulate around the tulle.[2]
- Do not hang the tulle from the shower curtain rod since you'll be running the shower.
- Lay towels on the floor and run a hot shower. Place towels on the bathroom floor to prevent the floor from becoming slippery and dangerous. Turn the shower on and make the water hot so the room begins to fill with steam.[3]
- Keep the bathroom door open to prevent the fabric from becoming too moist.
- Lay a clean, dry towel across your arm. Wrap the towel around your arm so it's completely enclosed in the fabric. Use a white towel to prevent colors from bleeding onto the tulle.[4]
- Run the towel across the tulle to smooth it. Once the room is steamy, slowly brush your towel-covered arm down the tulle. Repeat this as many times as you need to to remove light wrinkles.[5]
- Keep the shower running until you've finished steaming out the wrinkles.
EditUsing a Steam Machine - Hang the tulle on the pole of the steam machine. Hang the tulle dress or tutu on a hanger or attach a tulle veil to a hanger clip. If you're using a handheld steamer machine, hang the tulle from a shower rod, a wall hook, or in an empty closet.[6]
- Fill the water tank on the steamer and heat the steamer for 5 minutes. Ensure that the steamer has enough water in its tank to create lots of steam. Once you've turned on the steam machine, leave it to heat up for 5 minutes.[7]
- Point the steamer nozzle at the wrinkles. Steam will start to come out of the nozzle of the steamer when it's ready to use. Hold the nozzle and move it about (2.5 to 5-cm) away from the wrinkled tulle. Keep moving the nozzle over the tulle until the wrinkles flatten and disappear.[8]
- Depending on wrinkled tulle, you'll probably need to hover the steam over it for a few seconds.
EditRemoving Wrinkles with Your Dryer - Check the fabric label. If you're trying to remove wrinkles from an article of clothing that has tulle attached, read the clothing's fabric label. If the clothing is made with another delicate fabric, you shouldn't put it in the dryer. For example, don't use the dryer if you want to remove the wrinkles from a wool dress with tulle embellishments since wool will shrink in the dryer.[9]
- Avoid using the dryer to remove wrinkles from large items of clothing such as wedding dresses. Don't use the dryer if your tulle has rhinestone, pearl, or lace glued onto it.
- Plain fabrics with tulle such as plain tutus or veils with no embellishments are safe to put in the dryer.
- Run the empty dryer on low heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Turn the dryer to its lowest heat setting and turn it on without putting the tulle into it. Run the dryer for 3 to 5 minutes so it warms up.[10]
- Some dryers have a delicate setting, which is the lowest heat setting.
- Spritz the tulle with water. Take a spray bottle full of water and spray the tulle with several spritzes of water. The tulle or clothing item should feel slightly damp. This moisture will create steam in the dryer, which will release the wrinkles.[11]
- Dry the tulle for 5 minutes. Put the tulle or clothing into the warm dryer and turn it back on to its lowest setting. Dry the tulle until it becomes smooth. Don't dry the tulle for more than 5 minutes or it can dry out and become stiff.[12]
- You can put the tulle into the dryer by itself as long as you've spritzed it with water first.
- Remove the tulle and hang it up. Turn off the dryer and immediately remove the warm tulle. Hang it up on a hanger or clip and let it dry completely. The wrinkles should fade once the tulle is cool.[13]
EditPressing the Wrinkles with an Iron - Fill the iron with water and turn it on. Keep the iron unplugged and fill the iron's tank with water. Plug the iron in and turn it to the steam setting. Let the iron heat up until it makes steam when you turn the iron down.[14]
- Avoid using the iron if it doesn't have a steam setting.
- If your iron is prone to leaving rust spots, avoid using it to steam the tulle.
- Lay the wrinkled tulle on an ironing board. Ensure that the ironing board is clean and dry. Lay the fabric or tulle dress on the board so the wrinkled area covers the board.[15]
- Hold the iron 1-inch (2.5-cm) above the tulle. Lower the iron towards the tulle, but don't lay it on the fabric or it could melt. Keep the iron about 1-inch (2.5-cm) above the tulle and hover it over the wrinkles for a few seconds. As the steam from the iron gets near to the wrinkles, they should flatten out.[16]
EditThings You'll Need EditUsing Shower Steam - White towel
- Hanger, tutu hanger, or veil hanger with clip
EditUsing a Steam Machine - Steam machine
- Hanger, tutu hanger, or veil hanger
EditRemoving Wrinkles with Your Dryer - Drying machine
- Hanger, tutu hanger, or veil hanger
EditPressing the Wrinkles with an Iron EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário