| How to Tell if a Chicken is Sick Posted: 12 Mar 2019 01:00 AM PDT Chickens are relatively hearty pets, but they can be affected by a number of diseases. Typically, you'll look for changes in their behavior, as well as changes in their skin, feathers, and feces to determine if they're sick. Many symptoms are common to a variety of diseases, so it's always a good idea to have a sick bird checked by a veterinarian before you begin treatment. EditWatching for General Signs of Sickness - Look for chickens that hide in the roost and aren't active. Chickens who are happy and healthy are on the move during the day. If 1 or more of your chickens is trying to hang out in the roost instead of coming out, you should check the chicken for further symptoms.[1]
- For instance, when you open the door to the roost in the morning, your chickens should want to walk out.
- Instead of sitting on the roost, they may also sit around with their feathers puffed out to keep warm.[2] When chickens become ill, they commonly sit around and try to keep warm in order to conserve energy.
- Check if the chickens are eating. Keep an eye on your chickens when you feed them. If you have any that hang back and don't eat, that could indicate sickness, particularly if it's a food your chickens enjoy.[3]
- If you have one you suspect might be sick, try feeding it a special treat to see if it shows interest. If it doesn't, that will confirm your suspicions. For instance, try cooked oatmeal or corn. Chickens also love mealworms.
- Watch for any behavior out of the ordinary. Maybe your bird is holding its wings in a funny position. It might stand away from the rest of the flock. Alternatively, you may notice it's limping or has trouble standing up. Anything different could be a sign that your bird is having a problem.[4]
- You may also smell an odor coming from the chicken that's not normal.
- Notice stomach problems like vomiting and diarrhea. Though some vomiting is done for courtship reasons, vomiting can also indicate sickness, particularly along with other symptoms, so keep an eye out. Similarly, a very bad odor in the chicken's feces could also indicate a problem, as could an unusual color or texture to their feces.[5]
- Loose stools are also a problem.
- Pay attention to the chicken's coat and eyes. If your chickens are sick, their coats are going to suffer. Look for disheveled, dull-looking coats, as that could indicate your chickens are under the weather. Similarly, watch for cloudy or runny eyes, another indication of sickness.[6]
- Chickens may also close one or both eyes more often instead of being alert.
- Ragged feathers mean your chickens aren't feeling up to preening themselves.[7]
- Examine the chicken's wattle, comb, and facial skin for changes. Sometimes, these areas will go pale or change to purple. Other times, they may swell or get lesions. Any change from bright red with the wattle or comb is likely a sign of sickness.[8]
- Check the egg quality. If a chicken is sick, her eggs are going to suffer. They may have a soft shell or have problems inside the egg, like being too watery. Alternatively, the eggs may come out misshapen.[9]
- You may also notice the chicken has trouble laying eggs. She may strain while trying to pass an egg.
- Contact the vet if you notice one or several of these symptoms. If you have a veterinarian on call, have them come visit your flock, especially if multiple chickens are having issues. Otherwise, take the sick chicken in to a large-animal veterinarian if they start showing these symptoms. It's a good idea to take precautions, as well, such as quarantining chickens who are showing signs of illness and making sure common areas are cleaned out regularly.
- The veterinarian can help you narrow down what the problem is and point you to an appropriate treatment. They can also tell you whether your whole flock needs to be treated or not.
- If you see signs of specific illnesses, contact your vet immediately.
EditChecking for Avian Influenza and Respiratory Diseases - Look for coughing and sneezing. The symptoms of these diseases in chickens are similar to the symptoms in humans. Chickens will normally sneeze every once in a while, but if you notice persistent sneezing throughout your flock, that could be a sign of a respiratory disease.[10]
- You may also notice coughing spreading through your flock.
- You'll see these symptoms in diseases like avian influenza and infectious sinusitis.[11]
- Some of these illnesses are treated with antibiotics, but some are caused by viruses that can't be treated with medication.
- Check for drainage from the eyes and nose for infectious sinusitis. Infectious sinusitis can cause clear drainage from the eyes, as well as foaming discharge from the nose. These areas may also be swollen and stuffy.[12]
- You may also notice raspy breathing.
- Watch for a purple color in the comb, wattles, and legs with avian flu. Sometimes, this disease can cause these areas to take on a purple hue. They may be tipped with blue or purple while the rest of the area looks paler than normal, for instance. While this condition isn't unique to this disease, it can be a symptom.[13]
- The comb may also flop over.
- With pox, you may notice lesions on the face, comb, and wattle.
- Avian flu is a virus that cannot be treated with medications.
- Check the egg quality. All of the respiratory diseases can cause changes in egg quality. For instance, eggs may come out in funny shapes or not have hard shells. Different changes in eggs can point to different diseases.[14]
- For instance, if egg laying slows down and you notice a decline in the shell quality, that could be infectious bronchitis. This disease can be treated with antibiotics.
- Newcastle disease will cause a decline in egg laying as well as in the inner egg quality. This disease cannot be treated with antibiotics, but your vet may give you some to prevent other infections.
- Pay attention to sudden deaths with avian flu. The avian flu, in particular, can cause some birds to die even if they aren't exhibiting other symptoms first. If you have an unexplained death in your flock, you may want to check your other birds for this disease.[15]
- Infectious laryngotracheitis can also cause a large number of bird deaths, and it cannot be treated with antibiotics, as it's a virus.
EditLooking out for Coccidiosis and Other Intestinal Diseases - Watch for a light-colored comb and skin. The stomach disease coccidiosis stems from a parasite in the intestinal tract, and like many diseases, it can cause changes in the chickens' comb and wattles. Typically, with this condition, these areas will look paler than normal.[16]
- A healthy chicken's comb and wattle will be bright red.
- Look for bloody droppings and other changes in this area. Intestinal diseases like coccidiosis can cause blood in the stool, though not every infection will cause this symptom.[17] In severe cases, it can lead to yellow defecation that has a foamy texture and appearance.[18]
- Keep in mind that chickens do shed their intestinal linings from time to time, which is perfectly normal. That will be more brown-red rather than bright red.
- Be aware of bird deaths. Coccidiosis, as well as other types of intestinal diseases, can also cause fairly sudden deaths, and it could have already spread to the rest of your flock. While that's a scary thought, it's treatable, as long as you start immediately and separate out the birds you believe are sick for treatment.[19]
- A necropsy can be performed on a dead bird to determine if it's coccidiosis or another condition.
EditNoticing Specific Signs of Other Diseases - Look for itchy birds and ruffled feathers to detect lice or mites. While not a disease per se, lice and mites can cause problems for your chickens, such as anemia. If you think your chickens might have lice or mites, inspect the base of the feathers near the back end of the bird to look for lice or mites.[20]
- You may notice clusters of tiny white eggs. Alternatively, you might see parasites moving around on the bird, either small black specks or white parasites the size of rice.
- Lice and mites can be treated by dusting the birds a parasite powder or spraying them with a parasite solution for chickens.
- Notice birds who are thin with bad feathers, which could indicate roundworms. This intestinal parasite can make your chickens lose weight, and they may not feel like taking care of their feathers. Also, the skin around their mouths may be paler than normal.[21]
- This parasite may cause diarrhea, and you may see matted feathers near their rear ends.
- If one bird gets this, you'll need to treat the whole flock.
- Pay attention to a bird having trouble laying eggs. This condition is called being egg-bound. You may notice the bird hanging out in the coop more. Its behavior may be erratic. You may see her straining to lay the egg. Think of someone with constipation and how that would look in a chicken. It may make noises while trying to lay the egg.[22]
- There's not a lot to be done for egg-bound chickens, though a warm water bath around her back end or applying lubricant may help.
- Watch for temporary paralysis for Marek's disease. This disease is caused by a herpes virus, and it is fairly widespread. In some cases, it can cause lymphoid tumors that press on or enlarge nerves.[23] In turn, that can cause paralysis, which may only be temporary or could be permanent.[24]
- This condition can't be treated.
- If you think your chicken is sick, contact a veterinarian to have it examined.
- Put your sick chickens in quarantine so that the disease cannot spread to the rest of your flock.
EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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| How to Use the London Underground Posted: 11 Mar 2019 05:00 PM PDT The London Underground, also called the Tube, is a transportation rail network that services London and the surrounding areas. If you've never used the London Underground before, it may seem like a daunting task. Luckily, if you prepare ahead of time and keep a few tips in mind, you'll be able to confidently navigate the city like a pro. EditNavigating the Lines and Stations - Keep a map of the Tube on hand. If you're unfamiliar with the Tube, a map is essential. The lines are clearly marked and color-coded, making it easy for you to determine the best route to your destination. You can pick up a free map at Heathrow Airport or from any Tube station, from a London Underground Information centre.[1]
- Find your departure and arrival stations on the map. Mark the closest station to your location on the map. Then find the closest station to the destination where you want to end up.[2]
- Be aware that the Tube stations are currently open between 5:00 a.m. and 12:00 a.m.[3]
- Trace the Tube route between those stations. In some cases, you may need to transfer to a different line to get to your destination. Memorize or write down the name(s) and/or color(s) of the line(s) so you know which train(s) to take. Make sure you know the direction of the line you need to use. Many stations have two platforms, East or West Bound or North or South Bound. [4]
- You can also use a smartphone app, like Tube Map by MapWay, to figure out the best route.[5]
- Note that the Tube has 11 lines that service 9 zones.
EditPaying for Your Fare - Expect to pay £2-£6 per trip. The price of your journey on the Tube is based on a variety of factors, including how you pay, what time of day or night you are traveling, which of the zones you travel through, and the duration of your trip.[6]
- Purchase a paper ticket if you only need to ride the Tube once. One-time tickets cost more than the other options, so it only makes sense to purchase one if you need a single fare. You can purchase a paper ticket at designated ticket stations at any London Underground or Transport for London station.[7]
- Opt for a Travelcard if you plan to use the Tube for a specified time period. A Travelcard allows you to use the London Underground and Overground transportation services for an unlimited number of rides in a specified time period, like a single day, full month, or calendar year. Like the other options, Travelcards are available at all Transport for London, Underground, and Overground stations.[8]
- Use an Oyster Card to save money if you ride the Tube frequently. Oyster Cards are the most popular way to pay to ride the Tube. This card can also be used to pay for trips on buses and trams around the city. You can purchase one at any Underground, Overground, or Transport for London station.[9]
- Pay using Contactless to have the funds withdrawn from your bank account. The Contactless service allows you to use a designated credit card or mobile device to pay for your fare. The funds will be automatically withdrawn each time you swipe your card or device when passing through the barrier.[10]
EditRiding the Tube - Enter the Tube station and scan your card or ticket to get past the barrier. There are 270 Tube stations, so find the one nearest you and make your way inside.[11] Follow the flow of traffic until you reach a yellow card reader. Touch your paper ticket, Oyster Card, Travelcard, or mobile device to the reader to scan in.[12]
- Make your way to the correct platform. Follow the color-coded signs to get to the right line. Make sure to choose the Tube going in the direction you need to travel. Wait on the platform until the Tube arrives.[13]
- Be sure to read the information on the front of the train to ensure it's going to the right destination before you embark.[14]
- Mind the gap! Once the train arrives, prepare to board. Note that you will have to step up or down about from the platform to the train car, hence the famous saying "Mind the gap!"[15]
- If you have decreased mobility, try to use the first train carridge so you're in view of the driver and they can allow you extra time to get on board. For more information about accessibility, go to: https://tfl.gov.uk/transport-accessibility/[16]
- Settle in for the journey. Cell phone signal is spotty at best, so don't expect to spend the ride scrolling through social media or catching up on calls or emails. Take a book, crossword puzzle, or some other form of entertainment to keep you busy during the ride. Try The Metro, a free newspaper avaiable in stations or sometimes discarded on the seat next to you...if you get a seat...[17]
- If you're unable to find a seat, hold onto the rails while the train is moving.[18]
- Pay attention during your trip so you get off on the right stop. Watch out for station signs and listen for announcements. There are electronic notices on the trains advising where you are and where the train is headed. If you do miss your stop, don't worry! Get off at the next stop then look at a Tube map to determine how to get your final destination. Some times you can go one stop back in the opposite direction on the same line.[19]
- Transfer trains if necessary. If you need to take more than one line to get to your destination, exit at the necessary station, follow the signs to locate the right platform, then get on the next train. You won't have to pay more or scan your ticket or card unless you exit the station through one of the yellow barriers. Often there's an announcement on board advising where you need to get off to chsnge to another line.[20]
- Scan your card or ticket to exit the gate at your departure station. Once you disembark from the Tube, make your way to the gates. Touch your ticket, Oyster Card, Travelcard, or mobile device to the scanner and proceed to exit the station. You must scan even if the gates are open. If there isn't a gate, use a yellow card reader to scan your ticket or card.[21]
- Don't forget to scan before you exit! If you don't, your journey will be considered "incomplete" and you'll end up paying more than the cost of the fare you actually took.
EditFollowing Etiquette and Staying Safe - Have your ticket or payment card ready. Nothing will annoy busy Londoners more than someone who holds up the queue because they can't find their ticket or payment card. Get your method of payment out before you enter the station so you can quickly pass through the barrier.[22]
- Wait to board until other passengers have disembarked. Don't try to squeeze through the doors as soon as they open. Be patient and allow other people to get off the Tube before getting on. Then, make your way through the train car to provide spaces for other passengers to embark.[23]
- Relinquish your seat to expectant mothers. The regulations of this transportation service dictate that passengers must yield their seat to pregnant women. Fortunately, they've taken the guesswork out of this potentially awkward scenario by providing "baby on board" badges to expectant mothers.[24]
- Similarly, it's polite to give up your seat to passengers that are sick or elderly or parents with small children in tow.[25]
- Stand on the right side of the escalators at the Tube stations. Some folks are in a huge rush and won't appreciate you blocking the escalator. If you're going to stand instead of walk, move to the right side so that others can pass on the left.[26]
- If you're walking down stairs or escalators, stay to the left.
- Keep your personal belongings close by. Always keep your belongings within sight and avoid setting them down on the platform. If you carry a bag, choose one with a zipper to prevent pickpockets from snatching items out of your satchel. A cross-body bag is also a good choice as it can deter thieves from grabbing your bag and taking off.[27]
- Check for line closures and delays on the Transport for London website (https://tfl.gov.uk/) ahead of time.
- Be prepared with an alternative to your preferred route. Any Tube train can terminate unexpectedly several stops before you get to where you need to be.
- It's useful to know the last stop of the line you need to make sure you are on the right train.
- Start getting ready to get off the train one stop before yours.
- Some stations are actually pretty close together and may be within walking distance. Check to see how far you are from your destination on foot before using alternative transport such as a cab or a bus.
EditSources and Citations
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| How to Brush Matted Fur Posted: 11 Mar 2019 09:00 AM PDT Matted fur can be really uncomfortable for an animal. The tangles pull on the animal's skin, which can lead to irritation and even infections. Luckily, in some cases, you may be able to remove the mat yourself. Try gently combing through the mat, using a detangler if necessary. If that doesn't work, you may need to carefully cut the mat away. Of course, if you have any hesitation or concerns, bring the animal to a veterinarian or a professional groomer to get it checked out! EditAssessing the Mat - Try combing the mat first if you can work your fingers into it. Press the mat between your thumb and first finger, or your first 2 fingers if the mat is very large. If the matted fur separates beneath your fingers, or your finger and thumb touch through the fur, you may be able to use a comb to gently detangle the mat.[1]
- Typically, the earlier you can catch a mat, the easier it will be to detangle. That's why you should examine your pet's coat daily, especially if the animal has long hair that's prone to tangling.
- If the fur is matted together to the point that it feels hard, trying to detangle it may cause unnecessary pain or stress to the animal, and it could even cause it to become aggressive.
- Cut the mat if the fur is matted tightly but it's not against the animal's skin. Even if the mat is too serious to detangle with a comb, you may still be able to remove it yourself. If you can work your fingers beneath the mat and clearly feel that there's a separation between the tangled fur and the skin, you may be able to safely cut the mat away.[2]
- If you have any question about whether it's safe to cut the mat, take the animal to a vet or a professional groomer.
- Call a professional groomer if the mat is tight against the skin. Sometimes, when fur gets really matted, it can press tightly against the animal's skin. Folds of skin can even become trapped in the mat, which can lead to a severe laceration if you try to cut it away.[3]
- You should also call a professional groomer if the mat is somewhere very sensitive, like on the abdomen, under the neck, or around the genitals, or if the animal is scared or aggressive.
- Cats in particular can be very skittish when you're working around their abdomen, even if they're normally very tame. A scared cat might curl around your hand, kicking with its back feet and gripping you with its front claws as it tries to bite you. A professional will know how to avoid these dangerous situations.[4]
- See your vet if there is any irritation on the skin under the mat. If you notice any redness, inflammation, or broken skin beneath the mat, the problem might be too serious for even a professional groomer. Instead, have the animal examined by a vet and ask them how to proceed.[5]
- Serious issues, including irritation and infection, can occur when a mat sits against an animal's skin for a long period of time.
EditCombing Mats and Tangles - Don't wash the animal before you try to remove any mats. When you see an animal with dirty, matted fur, it might be tempting to give it a good bath right away. However, if you wash the animal before you detangle its fur, the mats will tighten up as they dry, which will make them even harder to remove.[6]
- In addition, the mats might prevent the soapy water from penetrating the fur all the way to the skin, making the bath ineffective.
- If you're detangling dog hair, you may want to bathe the dog after you detangle its fur. However, avoid bathing a cat unless its fur is greasy or smelly. They typically groom themselves, and you'll just stress it out.[7]
- If the mat is in a horse's mane, you can use a special horse shampoo to wash its mane after you finish detangling it.
- Use your fingers to break up any tangles and mats as much as possible. Place the animal on a towel on the ground or a sturdy table, and sit or stand close by. Run your fingers over the animal's fur, breaking up as many mats and tangles as you can by hand. Separate loose hairs from the mats and gently work out any knots you can, but don't pull or tear at the animal's fur.
- Detangling mats can be a long process, and it can be stressful on the animal, especially if you're yanking with a comb the whole time. Using your fingers can help soothe the animal, and will decrease the amount of time you spend pulling on the mat.
- Try petting the animal as you detangle its fur to help calm it down. For instance, if you're detangling a mat on a cat's side, reach up every so often and stroke the cat's cheeks or chin. That way, it will associate the grooming with positive attention.
- Break apart larger mats with a comb, working from the outside in. If you come across a mat that you can't detangle by hand, you'll likely need to break it up with a wide-toothed metal comb. A brush is not as effective at removing mats, because it won't penetrate the fur as deeply. Grip the mat securely with one hand, as close to the skin as you can get. Then, try to pick apart the mat with the widest end of your comb, using short, gentle strokes. Start at the end of the mat furthest from the animal's skin and work your way inward.[8]
- Do not yank on the mat, as this is likely to upset the animal. Also, avoid raking the comb directly across the animal's skin, as this could cause irritation over time.
- This part of the process takes time and patience. Work in small sections, and if the animal starts getting frustrated, take a break. If it creates a negative association with the grooming process, you'll have a harder time keeping the mats from coming back.
- If you're detangling the fur on a treat-motivated animal like a dog, cat, or horse, offer it treats and plenty of soft, soothing praise if it's acting calm and relaxed.
- Saturate a stubborn mat with a detangling product for that specific animal. Deep conditioning products contain oils that can help the animal's fur slip out of the mat. If a mat is too tangled to comb out, soak it with a detangler and let it soak in for about 30 minutes. Then, come back and try to break the mat apart with your fingers or comb it apart.[9]
- Because animals have different skin pHs, you should never use products intended for another animal. For example, you shouldn't use a conditioner for a horse's mane on a dog. However, you may find some detanglers that are intended for both cats and dogs. If that's the case, it should clearly say so on the label.
- Also, never use human skin or hair care products on an animal.[10]
- Go back over the area with a fine comb or brush once you remove the mat. Many combs for animal grooming have a wider side and a fine-tooth side. If that's the case, comb back through the animal's fur with the finer side once you've gotten most of the mat free. This will help you catch any smaller tangles that might be left behind.[11]
- If your comb is only one width, use a smaller, fine-tooth metal comb, or go over the area with the animal's normal brush. For example, you might use a small slicker brush on a long-haired cat or a bristle brush for a dog with a medium coat.
EditCutting out Mats Safely - Use a razor comb to try to cut out the mat first. A razor comb, which may also be called a rake tool or a mat splitting tool, looks like a wide comb with long, sharp teeth. Press your hand against the animal's skin to help reduce pulling. Then, work the teeth of the razor comb under the mat and gently pull down in the direction the hair grows. Don't yank; just allow the tool to gently slice through the matted fur as far as it will go. It may take several passes to cut through the hair holding the mat in place.[12]
- Doing this will remove smaller mats, but it may also help loosen the tension on larger mats, helping the animal be more comfortable as you continue.
- You can find these tools at most pet supply stores. Choose a size that's best for your animal. For instance, you would want a smaller razor comb for cats and small dogs, and a larger tool for larger dogs.
- This tool is very sharp, so always use caution when you're using it. Also, be sure to always have the sharp ends pointing upward, away from the animal's skin. Similarly, don't apply too much pressure on the tool, as it's easy to accidentally rake the skin and cause injury. Take special care around angled areas like the legs and tail.
- Cut out large, stubborn mats with hair clippers. Use your hand to pull the animal's skin as flat and tight as you can around the mat. Then, turn on the clippers and lightly run them over the very surface of the mat, moving in the direction that the fur is growing. If you need to, you can make several passes, gently running the clippers over the surface of the mat each time. However, don't clip all the way to the animal's skin—just stop once you've removed the bulk of the mat.[13]
- Before you try to use clippers, make sure the animal is stable and calm, and have someone else hold it still, if you can. Speak to the animal in a soothing voice to reassure it throughout the process, and stop if it gets agitated.
- If you're grooming a cat, it may help to have someone gently hold it by the scruff of its neck. This can actually help calm a cat, since it's the way mother cats carry kittens when they're young.[14]
- If the animal is so matted that it needs to be completely shaved, take it to a professional groomer. If your cat typically experiences a lot of stress during grooming, it may be best to take your cat to the vet, who can sedate your cat and remove all of the mats. Not only will this make your cat more comfortable and stress-free, it will also prevent your cat from becoming more fearful of grooming in the future.
- Check the clippers every minute or so to make sure they aren't too hot. Clippers can get really hot, which can burn the animal if you're not careful. About every 60 seconds, turn off the clippers and lightly touch your hand to the blade. If it's uncomfortably hot to the touch, it's too hot for the animal. Wait a few minutes for the clippers to cool down before you turn them on again.[15]
- You can also use a cooling spray designed for clippers to help keep the blade from overheating.
- Try to detangle the fur with a comb once you've removed most of the mat. Often, removing the outer surface of a mat will help loosen it enough that you can finish the detangling process with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb. If you still can't loosen the mat, clip away a little more fur, or call a professional if you're concerned you need to clip too close to the skin.[16]
- A detangling spray may also be useful after you've removed the bulk of the mat. Saturate the animal's fur with the spray and let it sit for about 30 minutes, or the amount of time recommended on the product label. Then, gently comb the animal's fur to loosen any remaining tangles.
- To prevent mats in the future, groom the animal regularly. The more consistent you are, the more likely the animal is to accept and even enjoy being groomed.
- Take breaks to keep the animal from becoming overwhelmed.
- Do not use scissors to cut mats out of an animal's fur. You could accidentally cut it or yourself.
- If an animal seems scared or aggressive, take it to a professional. The animal may need to be sedated in order to safely remove the mats from its fur.
EditThings You'll Need EditCombing Mats and Tangles - Wide-tooth metal comb
- Fine-tooth metal comb or brush
- Detangler, corn starch, or coconut oil (optional)
EditCutting out Mats Safely - Razor comb
- Hair clippers (optional)
- Cooling spray (optional)
- Detangler (optional)
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations EditQuick Summary
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