| How to Hold a Pencil for Drawing Posted: 16 Jun 2019 01:00 AM PDT There's more than one way to hold a pencil, especially when it comes to an art as delicate as drawing. Most artists use two main grips to produce the bulk of their drawings—the tripod grip, which is the same one you'd use to hand-write a letter, and the underhand or overhand grip, which is useful for tracing long, steady lines and shading broad areas. However, you're also free to explore different variations of these grips in order to adapt your style for a given technique or situation. EditUsing a Basic Tripod Grip - Position the pencil between your forefinger and middle finger. Curl your hand loosely and slip the shaft of the pencil into the space where your first two fingers meet. More specifically, the pencil should rest between the pad of your forefinger and the inside edge of your middle finger. Make sure the tip of the pencil is pointed downwards.[1]
- In a standard tripod grip, the tip should extend roughly below your hand.
- Drawing demands quite a bit of stability and precision. For this reason, it's best to use your dominant hand.[2]
- Brace the opposite side of the pencil with your thumb. Place the tip of your thumb at the midpoint between the tips of your fore and middle fingers, making sure that only the first knuckle of each finger is making contact with the pencil. Apply enough pressure to steady the pencil, but avoid squeezing it.[3]
- Since this is the same hand position that most people use when first learning to write, the tripod grip is also sometimes referred to as the "writing" grip.
- Squeezing the pencil too tightly actually makes it harder to control, and can cause your lines to come out jagged and shaky.
- Lift your wrist off of your drawing surface. Rather than using your wrist to anchor your hand the way you would when writing, allow it to hover just above the paper. Not only will elevating your wrist help you form straighter, more fluid lines, it will also prevent you from dragging your forearm or the edge of your hand over your pencil marks and smearing them.[4]
- If you leave your wrist on the drawing surface, you're more likely to curve your lines involuntarily as you run out of room to maneuver the pencil. By simply picking up your wrist, you can avoid this common problem.[5]
- The only time it's useful to let your wrist remain on your drawing surface is when you're filling in especially small areas that don't require you to move the tip of the pencil more than about .
- Use both your wrist and forearm to draw. Once it's time to put pencil to paper, get your entire lower arm involved. Move the pencil with smooth, precise strokes, starting from the elbow. Remember to keep your wrist poised above your work surface at all times.[6]
- As an alternative technique, try letting the first knuckle of your pinky finger glide along the paper as you draw. This will force you to keep your wrist up while also guiding and adding stability to your movements.
- A basic tripod grip is best suited for making short lines, small, intricate shapes, and other fine details.[7]
EditEmploying an Underhand or Overhand Grip - Pinch the pencil between the pads of your forefinger and thumb. Press your two fingers together just enough to stabilize the pencil. The underhand grip is extremely relaxed and easy, so there's no need to squeeze too tight.[8]
- The tip of the pencil can be anywhere from away from your fingers. Do what makes the most sense to you.
- Rest your other fingers against the shaft of the pencil. Place your remaining fingers in a row along the forefinger side of the pencil. In this position, they'll serve to offer a little extra stability. You can also drape them lightly around the shaft if you prefer a slightly more secure grip.[9]
- Another option is to leave your middle, ring, and pinky fingers completely free if you feel like they're going to get in the way.
- If you choose to wrap your fingers, be careful not to close your hand enough to press the shaft of the pencil into your palm. This will change the angle of the tip and take some of the flexibility out of your wrist.[10]
- Run the tip of the pencil along the paper using your whole arm. Guide the pencil in long, loose strokes originating from the shoulder, keeping your hand and wrist at a fixed angle. The resulting lines will be much smoother than you could produce with a tighter, more focused tripod grip.[11]
- An underhand grip is ideal for tracing long, light lines and contours that span much of the paper.
- Turn your wrist over to switch to an overhand grip. An overhand grip is almost identical to an underhand grip except for the position of your wrist. One isn't better than the other—some artists feel that an underhand grip is the most precise, while others prefer the stability of the overhand variation.[12]
- An underhand grip is usually most comfortable if you're drawing on an easel, elevated desk, or similar upright surface. When drawing on ordinary desktop, table, or other flat surface, an overhand grip may feel more natural.
- Keep in mind that you're not locked into a single technique. You can switch back and forth from underhand to overhand as often as you like based on what feels good and creates the desired effect for your drawing.[13]
- Shade broad areas with the side of your pencil. Underhand and overhand grips lend themselves well to shading, since they make it possible to put a larger portion of the pencil tip in contact with the paper. Just hold the pencil against the paper at a near-parallel angle and move it back and forth in short strokes.[14]
- Start with light pressure to add a sense of texture to blank spaces and increase the pressure or go over the same area multiple times to create gradually deepening shadows.
EditExperimenting with Less Common Grips - Slide your hand back on the pencil in a tripod grip to take a brush grip. As its name suggests, the brush grip is a variation that closely resembles the way a painter holds a paintbrush. The major advantage of a brush grip is that it enables longer, lighter, easier strokes, bridging the gap between a controlled tripod grip and looser underhand and overhand grip.[15]
- With a brush or brush-style grip, your hand might be anywhere from the middle of the pencil to the very back end.
- Use a "loaded" overhand grip to apply more pressure while shading. Begin in a standard overhand grip, then slide your forefinger all the way up to the tip of the pencil. The weight of your finger behind the tip will provide additional leverage, which is great for shading bold, dark areas.[16]
- It's also possible to take a loaded tripod grip by angling the pencil down slightly and putting most of the emphasis on your forefinger.
- Try out an inverted grip for maximum visibility with complex drawings. Grasp the shaft of the pencil between your thumb and forefinger near the back end and use your other three fingers to support the front end. Unlike all of the other traditional grips, the tip will actually be pointed towards you in an inverted grip.[17]
- An inverted grip can come in handy when you're working on an especially detailed drawing and need to be able to watch what you're doing carefully.
- Because the inverted grip doesn't offer the precision of a tripod grip or the consistency of an underhand or overhand group, it's best to only use it on occasion.
- Certain types of pencils make certain grips more effective, as well. For example, a hard-tipped pencil can enhance the precision of a tripod grip, while softer tips are better for shading and delicate preliminary linework.[18]
- Don't be afraid to put your own unique spin on your grip to make drawing with a pencil more comfortable and hone your personal style.
EditReferences
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| How to Identify Animal Tracks Posted: 15 Jun 2019 05:00 PM PDT The art of studying and identifying animal tracks is a practice that dates back to ancient times when humans relied on hunting and gathering for survival. The practice is used today by hunters, hobbyists, and professionals to monitor animal migration patterns, track endangered species, and better understand local wildlife. Tracks are found in a variety of places and identifying them is most easily done through a process of elimination. While the process can feel overwhelming at first, a little ingenuity, research, and interpretive skills are all you need to be on your way to easily identifying tracks in no time.[1] EditSpotting Mammal Tracks - Count the toes. Note how many are on both the front and hind feet. Felines, canines, and rabbits all have 4 toes, while smaller animals like mice have 4 toes on the front foot and 5 on the hind. Knowing the basics about toes can help you eliminate many wrong possibilities right away.[2]
- Observe the shape of the toes and note if they are long or rounded.
- Always check other tracks in the same area to confirm your findings. It's common to get an animal's hind foot mixed-up with its front foot, so studying the other tracks will help you verify what you're seeing.[3]
- Look for claws. If you can see claws in the track, take note of the size and shape. Some are large and blunt while others are thin and sharp. Noting the claw size will help in the process of elimination.[4]
- Animals that climb tend to have small claws and animals that dig have large blunt ones.[5]
- Check if the track is symmetrical. Picture a line down the center of the track and compare the right and left sides. Typically, hooves are very symmetrical while other types of tracks are not.[6]
- For instance, bears have huge, asymmetrical tracks with 5 toes. The front tracks are smaller than the hind tracks.
- Identify canine tracks by their oval shape and 4 toe prints. Canine tracks also point forward, have a concave heel pad, and visible claws. The front paws are larger than the hind paws.[7]
- Wolves have the largest canine tracks at long.
- Coyote prints are smaller and narrower—about .
- Fox prints are fuzzier due to the hair in the paws and measure around .
- Domestic dog prints are similar in size and shape to wolf and coyote tracks. However, dog prints will zig-zag more than wild animal prints, which tend to follow a straight line.
- Recognize feline tracks by their rounded "M" shape. The 3-lobed heel pads on felines look similar to a bubble letter "M." Feline tracks have 4 toes and are about as wide as they are long. Typically, you won't see claws on feline tracks.[8]
- Mountain lion (or cougar) tracks are the largest feline tracks, measuring at about long and wide.
- Lynx tracks look very similar to mountain lion tracks and are about the same size. However, they are less defined because of the fur around the paws of a lynx.
- Bobcat tracks look similar to that of a coyote or fox, but are rounder and lack claw marks. They are about long and wide.
- House cat prints are pretty small——and generally don't follow the straight paths that wild animals do.
- Identify small mammals by their 5-toed prints. Many of the smaller mammals, with the exception of rabbits, have 5 toes. They range in size from .[9]
- Some people think raccoon prints look like baby hands, so if you see a track that looks human-like, it could belong to a raccoon. Both prints have 5 toes, but the front ones are smaller than the back ones.
- Opossum tracks are quite similar to raccoon tracks. However, the tracks of their hind feet clearly show their opposable thumbs.
- Otter tracks are wider and are most often found on muddy river banks. Otters have partially webbed feet and short claws.
- The front and hind feet of a skunk are the same size, unlike many other mammals. They have 5 toes and visible claws.
- Rabbits stagger their feet, leading to Y-shaped tracks. Unlike the other animals in this group, rabbits do not have 5 toes.
- Spot hoof tracks by their distinct 2-toed shape. Hooves are generally symmetrical. Depending on the animal, the tracks may be round, heart-shaped, or square.
- Moose have the largest prints at . They are heart-shaped, deep, and sometimes show claw marks.
- Bison have round prints that are wider than other animals. Typically, they're long.
- Elk tracks look similar to moose tracks but are smaller—about . They also have rounder toes that are not as tapered at the tips.
- Deer tracks show 2 distinct toes and a small dot shape underneath each toe. They're slightly angled away from each other and measure about .
- Bighorn sheep tracks look like deer tracks but are smaller and less pointed. They have a blockier shape and straighter edges.
- Wild boar tracks also look similar to deer tracks. They're about the same size but have rounder, wider toes. The dew claw is also present in their prints.
- Mountain goat tracks are V-shaped and much smaller than hooved animals like elk or deer.
- Recognize that rodent prints have 4 toes in the front and 5 in the back. Each rodent has a distinct track, and the one thing they have in common is the number of toes on each foot.[10]
- Beavers have webbed feet. Look for beaver tracks near rivers. The tracks from their back feet often cover up their front feet, and their tail can remove any trace of either!
- Porcupine prints often show only the pads of their feet and they are pigeon-toed, so the tracks point inward. Sometimes, you can see an impression of their tail along with their prints.
- Mice have bigger back feet than front feet. Their tracks show 4 tiny feet and sometimes a tail drag.
- Squirrel tracks also show 4 prints. Their back feet are around and their front feet are . Squirrels tend to hop and move from tree to tree.
EditIdentifying Bird Tracks - Take note of the habitat where the tracks are found. Birds tend to live in specific habitats depending on their particular needs. Ducks will often be found near water, perching birds generally stay near wooded areas, and gaming birds like open spaces. Study the area around the bird tracks to help narrow down the possibilities.[11]
- Since bird tracks look so similar, the best way to figure out which bird the prints belong to is to assess the habitat and find out which species frequent the area.
- See if the tracks alternate or are in pairs. Birds that live primarily on the ground, like turkeys, have alternating tracks. Conversely, tree-dwelling birds, including crows, leave pairs of prints because they hop on the ground.[12]
- Identify classic tracks by their Y-shape. Classic tracks (also known as anisodactyl) have 3 toes pointing forward and 1 long toe pointing backward. The most common birds in this category are doves, ravens, egrets, hawks, crows, grouse, and perching birds.[13]
- Spot game bird tracks by their 3 distinct toes. Game bird tracks are similar to classic bird tracks, with the exception that the hind toe is smaller or non-existent. This group includes birds like quails, turkeys, cranes, and sandpipers.[14]
- Recognize webbed tracks by their wide shape. Webbed (or palmate) tracks have forward facing toes that are webbed and outer toes that curve slightly inward. The most common birds in this category are ducks, geese, and gulls.[15]
- Totipalm tracks have webbing between all 4 toes. These tracks usually belong to pelicans and other ocean-dwelling birds.
- Identify zygodactyl tracks by their 4 toes. Zygodactyl tracks have 2 toes that point forward and 2 that point backward. A slightly less common track, these belong to roadrunners, cuckoos, owls, and woodpeckers.[16]
EditIdentifying Reptile and Amphibian Tracks - Note the size of the tracks. While lizards typically leave behind the same type of track, size can vary significantly depending on the specific species. Measuring the length and width then reference various lizard sizes if you believe you've found reptile tracks.
- Determine if the tracks are inland or near water. Depending on the type of reptile, understanding the location of the track will help you make determinations. Some reptiles like iguanas prefer dry areas and others like alligators will usually be found near water.
- Spot alligator tracks by their 5 toes. Alligator tracks are rarely mistaken for any other tracks—you can see 5 toes in the front tracks and 4 in the hind tracks. They will also have a scaled appearance. These tracks are much larger than those of most other reptiles.[17]
- The tail of the alligator leaves a large trough between its prints.
- Recognize lizard and salamander tracks from their tail drags. Lizard and salamander tracks are generally identified more easily from their tail drags than footprints. Their tails leave distinct lines and will often be accompanied with blurry foot marks on each side.[18]
- Salamander tail tracks move from side to side while lizard tail tracks are much straighter.
- Note that snake tracks look like smudges. Since snakes don't have feet, they don't leave tracks in the way that other animals do. You may see slight smudges or continual S-shaped prints in the sand or dirt.[19]
- Identify turtle tracks by their continuous line. Turtles take steps that are very close together, resulting in a continuous line of tracks on each side of their body. They look sort of like tank treads and have large claw marks and 5 toes on both feet. [20]
- Sometimes, only 4 toes are visible in the hind prints.
- Spot frog and toad tracks by their "K" shape. Both animals have 4 toes in the front and 5 in the back. Often, the front feet land between the back feet. Sometimes, you'll be able to see the frog or toad's belly impression in the tracks as well.[21]
- Using a reference guide is the easiest way to identify animal tracks. Search for one online that lists identifying features and contains photographs of tracks from various animals found in your region.[22]
- Familiarizing yourself with the species that are native to your area can be a big help when you need to identify animal tracks. This will help narrow down the number of possibilities and often help you make a quicker determination. [23]
- Measuring the tracks can help you determine which animal they belong to. Keep a flexible measuring tape in your pocket or pack to help with identification.[24]
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences
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| How to Make Incense Posted: 15 Jun 2019 09:00 AM PDT Burning incense is an ancient practice of smoldering plant material to produce a beautiful, fragrant scent. Incense is used around the globe and it comes in many different forms. Sage is a common ingredient alongside other scented herbs and flowers such as lavender, thyme, and rosemary. You can make your own incense easily at home in the form of sticks, a bundle, or a loose powder. EditMaking Incense Sticks - Get 30 unscented incense sticks and 1 long, lipped dish. Choose specialty incense sticks that are plain and unscented. Make sure the incense sticks can fit into the dish. If the incense sticks are slightly too long for the dish, use scissors to trim down the bamboo end of each stick.[1]
- A shallow, plastic dish is ideal.
- The shorter the incense sticks are, the more quickly they will burn.
- It's important to use specialty incense sticks rather than just plain bamboo sticks. Ordinary bamboo sticks will not work.
- Place dipropylene glycol (DPG) and fragrance or essential oil in the dish. Measure out of DPG and of fragrance or essential oil into the dish. Mix the ingredients well with a spoon.[2]
- DGP helps the incense sticks to burn properly and to reduce the release of black smoke. It is safe to use in your home and you can purchase it online. If you don't use DPG, there will be a strong burning smell when you light the incense.
- You can use any fragrance or essential oil that you like or a combination of several different oils. Sandalwood is a popular choice for incense sticks.
- Place 10 incense sticks into the dish. Make sure that the incense sticks are fully submerged in the DPG and oil mixture. If you place more than 10 incense sticks in the dish at a time, the sticks will not infuse properly.[3]
- Cover the dish with plastic wrap and soak the sticks for 24 hours. Tightly wrap the dish with plastic wrap so that that the liquid doesn't evaporate. Leave the dish in a cool, dark place. The sticks will infuse with the incense over the next day.[4]
- Air-dry the sticks on a cooling rack for approximately 24 hours. Wear rubber gloves and carefully remove each incense stick from the dish. Spread the sticks out on a cooling rack and leave them to dry, which may take up to a few days depending on the humidity.[5]
- Don't tightly pack the incense sticks on the cooling rack as there needs to be room around each one for the air to circulate.
- Repeat the soaking and drying process to make 2 more batches. Soak the next 10 incense sticks in the liquid for 24 hours. There should be enough liquid left in the dish to use, however, add more DPG and oil if there isn't. Then dry the incense sticks and repeat the process with the final batch.[6]
- Store the incense sticks in a ziplock bag or a glass jar until they are ready to use.[7]
- Burn the incense sticks using an incense stick holder. Prop the plain bamboo end of the incense stick into the groove in the holder so that it hangs over the tray. Light the tip of the incense stick and then blow out the flame. The incense stick will slowly burn and release its aroma.[8]
- Each incense stick will last approximately 1-2 hours depending on the length.
- If the incense stick doesn't burn or smolder well, this may be because it is still slightly damp. Let the other incense sticks dry for a longer period of time.[9]
EditMaking Incense Bundles - Make a thick bouquet of flowers and herbs. Choose fresh flowers and herbs that you enjoy the scent of or pick a more traditional combination of lavender, rose, thyme, eucalyptus, and rosemary. Make sure that all of the plants are facing the same direction, with stems at one end and leaves or flowers at the opposite end.[10]
- Try to choose flowers and herbs that dry well and that haven't been grown with pesticides or chemicals.
- You can also include cuttings from cedar or pine trees.
- Use cotton twine to hold the bouquet or flowers and herbs together. Use a ruler and scissors to measure and cut a piece of cotton twine that is approximately long. Knot the twine tightly around the middle of the bouquet to hold it together.[11]
- Wrap the bouquet in 8-10 fresh sage leaves. Hold the bouquet of flowers and herbs in one hand and use your other hand to line up the sage leaves around the bouquet. Make sure that the outside of the bouquet is fully covered by the sage leaves.[12]
- Use more or fewer sage leaves as required.
- Sage is the most traditional and popular ingredient to use in an incense bundle. However, if you do not have sage, it's fine to make your incense bundle without it.[13]
- Tie the bundle together using cotton twine. Cut and measure a piece of cotton twine that is approximately 8 times as long as the bundle you have made. Use the twine to tie a knot from the bottom of the stems. Make one end of the knotted twine only long, while the other end is the remainder.[14]
- Wrap the twine around the bundle of flowers and herbs. Use the long end of the twine to wrap around the bundle. Wrap the twine as tightly, as the herbs and flowers will shrink slightly as they dry. Once you reach the other end of the bundle, wind the twine back down the bundle in the opposite direction.[15]
- This will create a criss-cross formation with the twine.
- Tie off the twine at the end of the bundle. Once you have wrapped the whole bundle, wrap the remaining twine around the stems at the end of the bundle. Tuck in any loose ends under the wrapped twine.[16]
- The wrapped twine at the end of the bundle creates a handle that you can hold as the incense burns.
- Let the incense bundle dry for 2-3 weeks. Hang the incense bundle in a cool, dry, and dark location. Make sure that the incense bundle is completely dry before you burn it.[17]
- The amount of time that it will take for the bundle to dry depends on the humidity.[18]
- Light the end of the bundle to burn the incense. Hold the bundle by the twine handle. Set the opposite end of the bundle alight. Blow out the flames and place the bundle into a heatproof dish. The smoldering bundle will release the aroma of the incense.[19]
- It is easiest to hold the bundle horizontally rather than vertically as you are lighting it.[20]
- To put the incense out, simply snuff it on the heatproof dish. If you use water to stop the incense burning, it will be very difficult to light again.
EditMaking Loose Incense - Measure out 1 tsp each of lavender flowers, rosemary, thyme, sage, and peppermint. Lay all of your flowers and herbs out in front of you. Use a measuring spoon to determine the amount of each ingredient. You don't need to cut the ingredients, as they will be ground up soon.[21]
- Make sure that all of your ingredients are fresh.
- You can use either white sage or garden sage.
- Grind the ingredients into a fine powder. Place all of the ingredients into a mortar. Use the pestle to grind and crush the flowers and herbs. Continue grinding the ingredients until there are no large fragments left.[22]
- Alternatively, you can use an electric grinder rather than a mortar and pestle.
- Mix red sandalwood powder and essential oils into the ingredients. Place 1 tsp of red sandalwood powder and 3-4 drops of essential oils directly into the mortar and use the pestle to combine them with the other ingredients. Use any combination of lavender, rosemary, thyme, sage, or peppermint essential oils. You don't need to grind the ingredients as such, but rather just make sure that the powdered flowers and herbs are thoroughly mixed with the sandalwood powder and essential oils.[23]
- If you used an electric grinder, place the powdered flowers and herbs, red sandalwood powder, and essential oils into a glass bowl. Combine the ingredients with a whisk.
- Store the incense in a cool, dark, place. Place the incense into an airtight, glass container. Keep the container out of the sun and open it only when you want to use the incense.[24]
- This will help to preserve the scent and color of your incense.[25]
- Burn the incense on a charcoal disk in a heatproof dish. Spread a thin layer of sand on the bottom of the heatproof dish. Then place the charcoal disk on top of the sand. Light the charcoal disk, place a small sprinkle of the loose incense on top of the disk, and enjoy the aroma of your own homemade, loose incense.[26]
- Alternatively, use a small cauldron rather than a heatproof dish. You can also use salt rather than sand to layer the heatproof dish or cauldron.[27]
- Always pay attention to incense as it is burning to make sure that it doesn't become a fire hazard.[28]
EditThings You'll Need EditMaking Incense Sticks - Plain, bamboo incense sticks
- Long, lipped dish
- DPG
- Fragrance or essential oil
- Measuring spoon
- Spoon
- Plastic wrap
- Rubber gloves
- Cooling rack
- Ziplock bag or glass jar
- Incense stick holder
EditMaking Incense Bundles - Fresh flowers and herbs
- Sage
- Cotton twine
- Ruler
- Scissors
- Lighter
- Heatproof dish
EditMaking Loose Incense - Lavender
- Rosemary
- Thyme
- Sage
- Peppermint
- Measuring spoon
- Mortar and pestle or electric grinder
- Sandalwood powder
- Essential oils
- Glass bowl
- Whisk
- Glass container
- Heatproof dish or small cauldron
- Sand or salt
- Charcoal disk
EditReferences
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