| How to Turn Off the Water Supply to a Toilet Posted: 25 Jul 2019 01:00 AM PDT If you're trying to fix something wrong with your toilet, the first step is turning off the water supply. However, if you've never done this before, or if you have an older toilet without a shutoff valve, this may seem a little intimidating. Fortunately, whether you're closing the toilet's shutoff valve, turning off the main water supply to your home, or manipulating the float lever to stay upright, there are several easy ways to turn off the water supply to your toilet. EditClosing the Toilet's Shutoff Valve - Locate the shutoff valve attached to the pipe behind your toilet. The shutoff valve is a football-shaped valve connected to a pipe or hose attached to the bottom of the tank behind your toilet. The other end of this pipe should go into the wall.[1]
- Some older toilets don't have shutoff valves behind them. If this is the case for you, you'll have to use the wooden board method or simply cut off the main water supply for your entire home to turn off the toilet's water supply.
- Turn the valve clockwise until it can't turn anymore. Turning the valve clockwise as far as it can go will turn off the water supply to the toilet. The valve should not be difficult to turn, so don't try to force it if you can't easily turn it.[2]
- If the water valve looks rusty or is difficult to turn, try applying some WD-40 to it. If you're still unable to turn it after this, you probably will need to replace it.
- Flush your toilet to make sure the water is turned off, if you can. If the water supply is turned off, the water in the back tank will empty out into the toilet bowl and will not be refilled afterwards. If your toilet is clogged, you can also test if the water has been turned off by lifting the float lever in the tank. This is the lever attached to the hollow, sealed float on top of the water in the tank. If the water is still on, more water will be added to the tank when you push this lever down.[3]
- Note that if the water is still turned on, you'll need to quickly push the float lever back up to prevent the tank from overflowing.
- Turn the valve counterclockwise when you're done to turn the water on. Once it's time to turn the water supply to the toilet back on, all you have to do is simply turn the water valve counterclockwise as far as you can. Give the toilet a flush to test it and make sure the water is turned back on.[4]
EditTurning Off the Main Shutoff Valve - Look for the valve in the basement if you live in a colder climate. In colder areas where freezing temperatures are more common, the water meter and main shutoff valve are typically located indoors. Look in the basement near the first foundation wall or in the crawl space underneath your home.[5]
- If you can't find your water meter and valve in these typical locations, your best bet is to contact a professional plumber to have them locate your meter for you.
- Check outside to find the valve if you live in a warmer climate. The water meter and main shutoff valve will probably be located in an iron box underground along the side of your home. Don't worry about it being underground, though; you'll be able to spot the lid covering the meter above ground.[6]
- The main shutoff valve will be 1 or 2 "wheel" handles or lever handles jutting above or next to a metal pipe. They will probably be on either side of a water meter.
- If you have an external water heater on a side or in back of your home, there's a good chance the water meter will be somewhere near this.
- Note that the shutoff valve usually looks like 1 or 2 "wheel" handles. These are circular handles with finger-sized indentations along the circumference that allow you to get a better grip on them. There will most likely be a water meter located in between these 2 handles along a water pipe running into your home.[7]
- Some shutoff valves feature lever handles instead of wheel handles.
- Turn the valve clockwise to shut off your main water supply. This will stop all the water flowing into your home, including the water supply to the toilet. If there are 2 valves on either side of the water meter, turn the one that is closest to your home.[8]
- If there's only 1 wheel handle or lever handle, that's the one you'll want to operate to turn off the main water supply.
- Once you've finished with your work, simply turn this valve counterclockwise again to turn the water back on.
EditPropping up the Float Lever - Take the lid off the tank and find the float near the top of the water. When this hollow container floats to a certain height, the valve stops letting water into the tank. When you flush the toilet, the float falls with the water level and reopens the water valve. To prevent water from refilling the tank, you'll need to secure the float to prevent the valve from opening after a flush.[9]
- Slip a narrow length of wood under the float lever to hold it up. Position the piece of wood vertically so that the bottom of it rests on the bottom of the tank. This way, the top of the wood will hold the float lever up and prevent it from causing the tank to refill after a flush.[10]
- For best results, use a piece of wood that is about shorter than the height of the tank itself.
- If the sides of the tank are too high to do this, then straddle the board above the float lever and wrap a length of stiff wire around both the float arm and the board to hold the float up.
- Flush the toilet to drain the water out of the tank, if you can. The tank will empty, while the wood or wire strapping holds the lift arm up, preventing the valve from refilling the tank. If your toilet is clogged and you can't flush it, you can also use a bucket or tall cup to lift the water out of the tank until it's empty.[11]
- Remove the board when you're done to allow the tank to refill. After you're finished with your repair work, simply remove the board and or strapping to allow the float to refill the tank. Place the lid back on the tank and you're good to go![12]
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| How to Get Sap Out of Hair Posted: 24 Jul 2019 05:00 PM PDT Getting tree sap in your hair can lead to a sticky, clumped mess! If you find you or someone you know in that situation, don't panic. Generally, the sap can be removed with something oily, such as vegetable oil, mayonnaise, or peanut butter. A de-greasing soap may help, as well, or if nothing else works, try alcohol, baking soda, or even nail polish remover. Apply the product to the hair and massage it in to remove the sap. EditChoosing a Product - Use oil-based products for an easy option. Try vegetable oil, mayonnaise, or peanut butter. Baby oil is an option, too, particularly for thicker saps that you have a harder time getting out.[1] You can also try pine oil.[2]
- Find pine oil at most natural food stores, as well as natural remedy stores.
- Try a degreasing soap to cut through the oil in the sap. For instance, you can try a bit of dishwashing detergent since it cuts down on grease.[3] Another option is mechanic's hand degreaser, which tends to be fairly mild, but is made to cut through grease.[4]
- You can find mechanic's hand degreaser online or at auto parts stores.
- Use a pure bar soap if it's what you have on hand. Some of the pure bar soaps, such as Ivory, will cut through the sap, so try one out if that's all you have around your house. Try one without heavy perfumes and dyes. It's simple and effective.[5]
- Oil-heavy soaps, like Dove bar soap or most conditioners, may also help.
- Apply rubbing alcohol to stubborn sap. Rubbing alcohol helps remove a lot of sticky messes, so it's a good option to try here. If you're away from home, try hand sanitizer or alcohol-based hand wipes, which might also work.[6]
- You can even use something like vodka or other high-proof alcohols if that's what you have.
- Scrub your hair with baking soda if the sap won't dissolve. Pull that baking soda out of your kitchen cabinet. Baking soda should slowly dissolve the sap, and it won't harm the hair at all.[7]
- Baking soda is relatively gentle. You can even use it on your hair to remove a buildup of conditioner.
- Try nail polish remover as a last resort. If nothing else is working, an acetone-based nail polish remover may work. However, make sure that you do not get this into your eyes![8]
- Acetone may dry out your hair. Plus, it's more dangerous to use around your eyes.
EditApplying the Product - Add the product to a washcloth or your hands. Pour or use a spoon to add a quarter-sized dollop of the product to the washcloth or your hand. For instance, you can add a spoonful of mayonnaise, degreasing soap, oil, or peanut butter to the washcloth.[9]
- For bar soap, rub the soap into the wet rag to make it sudsy before using the rag on your hair.
- With products like alcohol or acetone, wet the rag with the alcohol or acetone rather than with water.[10]
- For baking soda, sprinkle it on the damp rag or the hair.
- You may need to heat peanut butter up with a hair dryer or put it in the microwave for a few seconds. It should be almost pourable.[11]
- Rub the product into the hair. With the washcloth or your hands, gently rub the sap-covered area with whatever product you've chosen. Use your fingers to break up clumps and massage the product into your hair.[12]
- For some products, like baking soda, let it sit on the area for a few minutes after you rub it in. Pine sap may work better after sitting, too.
- Comb the product into your hair. Combing the area will help remove sap clumps, as well as ensure the product is evenly distributed. Use a straight-tooth comb and pull it gently through the area.[13]
- If you hit a stubborn clump, don't try to yank the comb through, as you could yank out hair. Instead, massage more product into the area, and try to break up the clump with your fingers through the washcloth.
- Repeat the process as needed. If the sap isn't gone, add more product to the hair and massage it again. You can try different products to see if they work better on the particular sap that's causing you trouble.[14]
- Avoid mixing baking soda and acetone or baking soda and alcohol.
- Repeat the process 2-3 times as needed to get all of the sap out.
- Rinse the product out thoroughly. Use warm water to rinse out the area. It may be best to get in the shower or bathtub for this part so you can run a lot of water through the hair.[15]
- Use your fingers to feel for any leftover sap.
- Wash and condition the hair like you normally would. Once the sap is gone, shampoo the hair to get rid of any leftover product. Use conditioner, too, as some of the products, such as alcohol, can be drying to the hair.[16]
- If you have a large dried-up clump in your hair, wrap a towel around it. Use pliers to crunch it into smaller pieces before adding oil or another product.[17]
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| How to Build a Wine Cellar Posted: 24 Jul 2019 09:00 AM PDT If you're a wine connoisseur, a wine cellar can make a perfect addition to your home. The simplest way to build your own wine cellar is to renovate an existing room in your house. First, make sure the space you've chosen is properly framed and insulated. Then, purchase and install a specialized cooling system to keep your wine cellar within the optimum temperature and humidity range. When that's done, you can begin picking out racks, lighting, and other decorative touches to put your own personal stamp on your home wine cellar. EditConstructing Your Wine Cellar - Choose an existing room to convert to a wine cellar. Despite what the term suggests, just about any room can be used as a wine cellar as long as it's well-insulated. Basements and cellars are among the best choices since they'll already be cooler than other parts of your home, but you could also use a game room, spare bedroom, or even an unused closet.[1]
- The exact size of your wine cellar will depend on the space you have available, as well as the amount of wine you want to preserve.
- When it comes to wine cellars, the cooler, the better. If possible, pick out a room that receives little or no direct exposure to sunlight throughout the day.
- Make sure the area adjacent to your wine cellar has adequate ventilation. To convert an ordinary room to a wine cellar, you'll be installing a special cooling system that pumps warm exhaust air into a neighboring room. Try to select a room that contains at least one door, window, or air vent to allow the warm air to escape.[2]
- Most cooling systems only guarantee a 30-50 degree temperature differential. For this reason, it's important that the adjacent room be no warmer than to maintain the recommended temperature of in the cellar.
- If you're building your wine cellar in a basement, you won't have to worry about ventilating any other rooms, as the warm air will simply be dispersed outside.
- Wrap the entire room with a vapor barrier to repel moisture. Measure the walls and ceiling of your wine cellar and cut sections of waterproof 6mm plastic or foil sheeting to fit over them. Stretch and smooth each section so that it lays as flush as possible. Secure the vapor barrier along the edges with foil-backed tape to ensure that it stays in place.[3]
- Ask someone to assist you when it comes time to apply your barrier materials to the ceiling.
- A preliminary vapor barrier will keep out unwanted moisture that could interfere with the humidity levels in your wine cellar.
- Frame the room with wooden joists to prepare it for insulation. Cut a series of x boards to match the height of the walls. Position the boards vertically around the perimeter of the room on the inside of the vapor barrier, leaving of space between each. Secure the joists with 2-3 nails at both the top and bottom ends. Do the same for the ceiling using x boards.[4]
- You might be able to get away with not framing the ceiling of your space if it's constructed of concrete.
- The purpose of framing is to create enough distance between the outer walls and the room's interior to install an extra layer of insulation, which will help maintain the right temperature for preservation and aging.
- Fill the gaps in your frame with high-efficiency insulation materials. Place fiberglass or foam batts into the spaces between each of the frame joists. For smaller spaces like closets, you can also use blown-in types of insulation like shredded fiberglass or low-dust cellulose for ease of installation.[5]
- Experts recommend using insulation with a rating of at least R-19 for wine cellar walls, and at least R-30 for ceilings. This means the insulation will be about thick on each side, with a layer along the ceiling.[6]
- If you decide to go with a blown-in insulation, be sure to apply an additional vapor barrier to the inside of the frame joists to properly contain it.
- Cover the insulated frame with drywall. Once you've got your insulation in place, all that's left to do is hang drywall to complete the basic structure of the room. Score your sheets to the right dimensions with a utility knife, then fasten them to the joists every using drywall screws. Use 5-6 screws for each side of each sheet.[7]
- Be sure to tape over the seams between each sheet so they won't be visible in the finished wall.
- Lightweight gypsum board, or "green board," can perform the same function as drywall or sheetrock, but with even greater moisture-resistant properties.
- Paint the walls of your wine cellar with waterproof paint. Smooth on 2-3 even coats of paint in your shade of choice, allowing each coat to dry for 12-24 hours before applying follow-up coats. For maximum protection and durability, use a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) paint formula. PVA paints offer a smooth, resilient finish and serve as an additional barrier against moisture.[8]
- Painting in small, enclosed spaces increase your risk of exposure to harmful fumes. Be sure to open any nearby doors and windows and leave the air conditioning or a portable fan running to promote ventilation.
- Another possible option is to have wood paneling installed rather than painting. Choose a rot-resistant type of wood, such as redwood, cedar, or pressure-treated pine, to prevent warping as a result of the surrounding humidity.[9]
EditCreating Optimal Storage Conditions - Have a specialty cooling system installed in your wine cellar. Hire an HVACR technician to come in and set up your cooling system for you. For home use, you'll get the best results using a split system. These can be mounted directly to the wall of your wine cellar, with one half located inside the cellar itself and the other half situated outside to vent warm air exhaust.[10]
- There are many companies that make air conditioner-style cooling units designed specifically for wine cellars. Spend some time looking into different cooling systems online to find one that suits your individual needs and budget.
- Keep in mind that you'll be paying for the system and the installation separately, which may drive up your total projected expenses.
- Keep your cooling system set to . This is the recommended temperature range for preserving and aging wine. If it's too warm in your wine cellar, your wine can reach peak condition too fast and may be at risk of spoiling. If it's too cold, your wine may age too slowly or be "shocked," which can ruin the flavor.[11]
- Wine cooling units work similarly to standard heating and air conditioning systems—they'll monitor the temperature in the room and increase or decrease the amount of cold air being circulated to keep it within the desired range.
- Bring in a humidifier if your space is especially dry. It's possible that the room you've selected for your wine cellar may have a lower than ideal humidity, particularly in drier regions. In these cases, it can be a good idea to invest in a separate humidifier unit to keep in one corner of the cellar. The humidifier will supply enough moisture to bring the room to the optimum level of 50-75%.[12]
- Make sure the humidifier you pick out is a non-heating model—you don't want to raise the temperature of the room by accident.
- You can also introduce a little extra moisture by installing a decorative fountain somewhere in your wine cellar.
- Make sure the humidity in your wine cellar remains between 50-75%. The relative humidity of your space is a major concern. Too much humidity can lead to mold growth inside the cellar. Likewise, air that's too dry can cause corks to crack and split, resulting in your wine being exposed prematurely or even potentially spilling.[13]
- Once you've programmed your cooling system, it will automatically work to maintain both the temperature and humidity in your wine cellar.
- With most newer cooling systems, excess moisture in the surrounding environment is condensed and eliminated via a condensate evaporation system. If you prefer, you can also have a separate drain line installed to flush waste water outside.[14]
EditIncorporating Essential Display Features - Line your wine cellar with racks to store and show off your collection. If you have a particular design in mind to fit the look of your home wine cellar, get in touch with a rack maker to discuss ideas for custom storage solutions. Arrange your racks along the outer walls to maximize walking space, or line them up in the center of the room to create rows.[15]
- For a more cost-effective alternative, you can also shop for premade, ready-to-assemble racks online or in stores that specialize in wine accessories.
- Wine racks come in all different sizes and styles, so be sure to shop around to find a set that speaks to your sensibilities.
- Install showroom-style lighting to highlight prized vintages. Mount light fixtures on the ceiling or floor at regular intervals and position them to point at your racks at upwards or downwards angles. They'll illuminate the selections you're most proud of in a more impressive fashion than you could with ordinary ceiling lighting.[16]
- Some enthusiasts opt to avoid lighting altogether, since bright light can warm the room and impact the flavor of the wine. If you do decide to include a few decorative fixtures, make sure you use a low-voltage variety, such as fluorescent bulbs or LEDs.[17]
- Be careful not to damage your vapor barrier while installing and situating your light fixtures.
- Set aside one corner of your wine cellar to use for tastings. When it comes time to begin decorating your completed wine cellar, set out a table and a few comfortable chairs, or spend a little extra putting in a bar and some stools. That way, you and your friends can get together to enjoy a private sampling or chat over a glass of your finest reserve.[18]
- You could even add a tasting area to a compact wine cellar by installing a short section of countertop with room for a handful of individual racks, similar to a sink in a half-bath.[19]
- Building a wine cellar in your home can be a fun project for wine aficionados, but it's not cheap. When it's all said and done, it can cost between $500 and $1,500 per square foot to convert an ordinary room into a fully-functioning wine cellar.[20]
- If you can't afford a traditional wine cellar, consider investing in a climate-controlled wine cabinet instead. You can find models that hold dozens or hundreds of bottles, and they're often available for $2,500-$10,000, which may be quite a bit less than putting in a wine cellar from scratch.
EditThings You'll Need EditConstructing Your Wine Cellar - 6mm plastic or foil sheeting (to act as vapor barrier)
- x wooden boards
- Fiberglass or foam insulation batts
- Blown-in insulation (optional)
- Drywall, sheetrock, or green board
- PVA paint and primer
- Rot-resistant wood paneling (optional)
EditMaintaining Optimal Storage Conditions - Mini-split cooling system
- Non-heating humidifier unit (optional)
EditIncorporating Essential Display Features - Wooden or metal wine racks
- Decorative lighting fixtures
- Fluorescent light bulbs or LED lights
- Assorted furniture and accessories
EditReferences
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