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• How to Repair a Deep Scratch on Car
• How to Train Grape Vines
• How to Paint Furniture Shabby Chic

How to Repair a Deep Scratch on Car Posted: 22 Jul 2019 01:00 AM PDT Finding a bad scratch on your car can be frustrating, but fear not—repairing even the worst scratches can be a fairly simple fix, provided you have the right tools. Depending on just how deep the scratch is, you may be able to buff it out by hand using a scratch repair kit. If that doesn't do the trick, fill in the damaged area with glazing putty and apply a little touch up paint to hide it from sight. EditSteps EditBuffing out Moderate Scratches Wash and dry the damaged area. Before you attempt to repair a scratch in your car's exterior, it's important to make sure the surrounding area is completely clean. Spray the scratch with a gentle stream of water from a garden hose. Once the surface is spotless, pat it dry using a microfiber cloth or chamois.[1] If you begin polishing without cleaning, it's possible to pull small particles of dirt into the scratch, potentially making it worse. Avoid using dish soaps to wash your car. These contain powerful de-greasers which can strip the protective sealant from the clear coat.[2] Pick up a scratch repair kit from your local automotive supplier. There are many different products on the market designed to help automobile owners easily fix cosmetic imperfections at home. One of these kits will come with everything you need to buff out a bad scratch in a matter of minutes, including a liquid scratch remover polish and soft buffing pad.[3] On average, a complete scratch repair kit will cost you around $10-30. Many car care experts recommended products like 3M Scratch & Scuff Removal Kit or Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound, which can be used to erase mild to severe scratches in the clear coat.[4] For details on using rubbing compound to fix car scratches, see How to Use Rubbing Compound. Apply a small amount of scratch remover to the damaged area. Squeeze the polish onto your buffing pad or a clean microfiber cloth rather than applying it directly to the car itself. This will help minimize messes and make it easier to use just the right amount.[5] Check the directions on your scratch remover to see how much polish the manufacturer recommends using. Buffing pads come in various shapes, sizes, and textures. If you don't like the one that came with your scratch repair kit, you can always shop around for another that suits your needs at any auto parts store. Work the scratch remover using your buffing pad. Buff the damaged area thoroughly, moving the pad in smooth, tight circles from one end to the other. The idea is to massage the polish into the the scratch, where the tiny abrasive particles it contains will gradually wear down the rough edges to produce a uniform surface.[6] Keep buffing until most of the polish has disappeared from the surface of the car. Use a clean microfiber cloth to remove excess polish. After buffing for a couple of minutes, carefully wipe away the remaining scratch remover. This will give you a better look at the scratch so you can determine whether it needs more attention.[7] Once you've wiped off the scratch remover, fold your cloth in half to get a clean surface ready in case you need to apply more polish. Survey the scratch and repeat if necessary. If the scratch is no longer visible, congrats, your problems are over! If you can still see it, however, spread on a little more polish and try buffing the spot a second time. This should be enough to erase most moderate scratches that don't reach down to the actual paint. Scratch remover liquids work by taking off thin layers of the car's outer finish, so be careful not to buff too hard, or for too long. If you start seeing traces of paint on your buffing pad, stop immediately.[8] Basic scratch repair kits won't be able to get rid of every scratch. If you can still see the scratch after a couple rounds of buffing, you'll need to move on to applying touch up paint. EditFilling Deep Gouges Clean the scratch with rubbing alcohol to remove dirt or wax. Wet a soft cloth or sponge with alcohol and go over the scratch and surrounding area until they're free of foreign substances. Starting with a spotless surface will help ensure that debris doesn't find its way into your repair materials.[9] Giving your vehicle a preliminary wipe down is especially important if you've recently had it waxed or resealed. Fill the scratch with glazing putty if you can see bare metal underneath. Squeeze a dime-sized blob of putty onto the finish beside the damaged area, then use a small hand squeegee or spreader tool to spread it into the gouge. The putty will build up the deep depression from within, restoring its original structure.[10] You can pick up a tube of glazing putty for spot repairs from your local automotive retailer or hardware store for around $5. A single tube should give you enough putty for 10-20 repair jobs! If the scratch isn't deep enough to expose the metal of the car's body, you can skip straight to applying touch up paint. Let the putty cure for 2-3 minutes. As it cures, it will harden into a solid inside the scratch. In the meantime, avoid touching it or any part of the scratch. Doing so could cause you to accidentally rub off the putty, creating gaps or inconsistencies.[11] Exact curing times may vary depending on the product you use. Be sure to consult the packaging for more accurate instructions. Wipe the scratch with liquid paint leveler to remove excess putty. Pour of paint leveler onto the center of a detailing towel or clean microfiber cloth. Work the towel back and forth over the resurfaced scratch using light pressure. Continue wiping until the scratch appears as a colored line and the area around it is clean.[12] The leveling liquid will clear the dried putty off of the finish but leave the putty inside the scratch untouched, resulting in a level surface. EditPainting over Repaired Scratches Apply a thin line of touch up paint to the scratch using a fine brush. Use the tip of the brush to dab the paint into the gouge rather than brushing or wiping it on. Aim for a light, thin coat, and work carefully to make sure the scratch is completely concealed.[13] If your touch up paint doesn't come with its own applicator, an inexpensive micro detailing brush will offer you the precision and control you need to get the job done right. Touch up paints are also sometimes sold in pen form. When using a touch up paint pen, all you have to do is drag the nib along the scratch slowly to disperse the paint inside.[14] Allow the paint to dry for 8-12 hours. Most types of touch up paint dry to the touch within a few hours. If possible, however, it's a good idea to let your freshly-applied paint sit overnight to give it ample time to set.[15] Resist the urge to touch or make modifications to your touch up paint as it dries. Use additional coats as needed. If there's still damage visible beneath your initial coat of touch up paint, you can add 1-2 more thin coats to finish the job. Dab on your follow-up coats the same way you did the first coat, then allow the paint to dry overnight when you're done.[16] For best results, plan on using at least 2 coats to cover especially deep scratches. Seal the painted scratch using a clear coat applicator. Glide the tip of the pen down the length of the paint line to slowly cover it with a thin, even layer of sealant. Be careful not to bear down too hard, or you could accidentally take off some of the unprotected paint.[17] When it comes to deciding how much sealant to use, err on the side of excess—you'll be sanding the clear coat later to level and blend the repaired surface, anyway.[18] After applying enough clear coat to cover the new paint, allow it to dry overnight, or for at least 8 hours. Wet-sand the repaired scratch smooth with 1,500-2,000-grit sandpaper. Wet a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper with clean water and run it over the raised ridge created by the dry sealant. To avoid removing too much of the clear coat, apply gentle pressure and use light, swirling motions. Continue sanding until the damaged area blends in with the surrounding finish.[19] Wet-sanding is better for detailing jobs, as the wet surface lifts away loose particles as you work, and can even wear down tiny scratches caused by dry sanding or polishing. Not all types of sandpaper are intended to be used wet. Make sure the sandpaper you buy is made specifically for wet-sanding.[20] Wrap your sandpaper around a backing block to make it easier to grip. EditTips Lighter scratches caused by tree branches, bicycle handles, or car doors can usually be removed with a little polish and elbow grease. Buffing a deep gouge with scratch remover can be a good way to fill it in temporarily until you can make more permanent repairs. It's a good idea to always deal with scratches as soon as you discover them. If left untreated, they could worsen or leave the body of your vehicle vulnerable to rust and deterioration. EditThings You'll Need EditBuffing out Moderate Scratches Scratch repair kit or scratch remover polish Buffing pad Water Microfiber cloth or chamois Rubbing alcohol (optional) EditFilling Deep Gouges Spot glazing putty Liquid paint leveler Hand squeegee or spreader tool Detailing towel, microfiber cloth, or sponge Rubbing alcohol Backing block (optional) EditPainting over Repaired Scratches Color-matched touch up paint or paint pen Clear coat applicator pen 1,500-2,000-grit wet/dry sandpaper Water Micro detailing brush (optional) Backing block (optional) EditReferences Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

How to Train Grape Vines Posted: 21 Jul 2019 05:00 PM PDT Grapevines grow by climbing and spreading across trellises, walls, and other surfaces. Growers "train" vines by controlling which way they grow, leading to healthier plants that produce better grapes. The most common way to do this is through spur training, where you grow new shoots from a pair of canes every year. Cane pruning is an alternative for cold climates where you remove as much old growth as possible each year. Set up your trellis to train your vines properly using either strategy. Then, get ready to pick the fresh grapes that bloom from branches after a year of growth. EditSteps EditUsing Spur Pruning Grow a vine next to a vertical post on a trellis for a year. Grapevines are climbing plants, so the vertical post serves as a base for your vine as it grows and expands across the trellis. Choose a healthy cutting, which is a cane from an existing plant that has a uniform reddish brown color. Any green spots are parts that haven't matured yet and are going to be difficult to raise. To keep the vine close to the post, tie it as soon as possible with binder twine or a similar type of weather-resistant string.[1] If you don't already have a grapevine or cutting to plant, check local gardening centers or place an order online. These places also tend to carry twine, pruning shears, and other tools you need to train vines. Give the vine enough water to keep the soil moist about deep. Grapevines don't need a ton of water, and wet soil can damage them. Spur pruning is easier to do than cane training. It works best in warmer climates or areas that experience drought. Pinch off the stem when it reaches the top of the trellis. The vine reaches the top of the trellis within 1 to 2 years. To prevent it from continuing to expand vertically, grasp the top of the shoot between your index finger and thumb. Pinch it off when it reaches the height you want to keep it at. Doing this forces the vine to branch off onto the horizontal wires on the trellis.[2] Remove any secondary branches while the stem grows to the height you desire. These extra branches take resources away from the main one and aren't needed for training. Grow the horizontal branches and tie them to the trellis. The vine spreads across the trellis, forming new branches to produce good fruit. Early in the year, usually around the beginning of April, tie the base of each branch to the wire to ensure it continues growing out along the trellis. These horizontal branches are called cordons. As you notice flowers forming, cut them off close to the cordons to avoid wasting any of the plant's resources.[3] Flowers take a lot of resources to grow, and your vine isn't ready to produce fruit yet. When you cut off the flowers, your vine grows faster and stronger. Pinch off the ends of the cordons when they reach the proper size. The size the shoots need to be depends on the space you have available. You could let the branches grow to the end of the trellis wire if you have room. Most of the time, the branches need to be cut short to avoid growing off the trellis or overlapping neighboring plants.[4] For example, if you have several grapevines apart, grow the horizontal branches to in length. That way, both plants have plenty of room to spread out across the trellis. Select the strongest branches on the cordons to grow for the third year. Side shoots come out of the cordons as they expand. Between January and April of the third year, when the branches soften enough for pruning, start removing some of the shoots. Try to save the ones that look strong, are undamaged, and have a uniform brown coloring. Keep them spaced out about along the cordons so they have plenty of room to grow.[5] Cut each side shoot down to leave about 4 buds on it. Buds look like small, round balls where a branch splits off into new growth. They almost look like grapes and are pretty easy to spot as you examine each cordon. Leave a renewal spur between each of the branches you saved. Renewal spurs give your grapevines the ability to generate new shoots during the next growing season. Keep the spurs an equal distance between the growing branches. Prune them down to 2 buds, enough to keep them alive with the ability to produce new growth.[6] Always leave fresh renewal spurs on your vine. Without the spurs, the vine can't produce new growth. Prune off the old spurs next year to repeat the process. During the third year, the side shoots you saved grow and begin producing grapes. When spring rolls around again, trim the vine thoroughly to prepare it for new growth. Remove older shoots that flowered the previous year, since they won't make more grapes. Let the renewal spurs grow out for the next season, but trim the fresh shoots to set up new renewal spurs between them.[7] Grapes only grow on wood that has had a year of growth. Most people hesitate to prune their vines because they don't like getting rid of all that old growth. The old growth is unnecessary, so heavy pruning is safe as long as you leave renewal spurs. Sometimes the cordons need to be replaced due to damage or disease. When this happens, select a new branch at the base of the cordon, grow it for a year, then remove the old cordon. EditCutting Canes for Training Plant a vine next to a vertical post to grow for a year. The vine needs a vertical surface on a trellis to climb as it grows. Make sure you're using a healthy cutting from an established grapevine. Plant it directly in the dirt, dampening the soil so it stays moist about deep.[8] As the stem grows, tie it to the trellis to prevent it from falling over. The best time to tie new growth is in early spring, around March and April. Cane pruning starts out like spur pruning but is somewhat more difficult. It is often used in relatively colder regions like Burgundy, Sonoma, and Oregon. Frequent pruning means the branches suffer less frost damage. Pinch off the top of the stem when it reaches the height you desire. Grow the stem all the way up to the top of your trellis, usually about off the ground. When it reaches that point, pinch the top between your thumb and index fingers. Snap it off to prevent the vine from growing further.[9] Pinching off the vine forces it to expand horizontally instead of vertically. Grow horizontal guyots along the length of the trellis. During the spring before the second growing season, decide how long you want your vine to extend. The shoots at the top of the trellis that grow along the wire are called guyots. Tie them to the wires to train them to extend horizontally. Remove any flowers that form during this year to ensure the guyots grow nice and strong.[10] The guyots are similar to cordons, so if you have experience growing one, you know how to grow the other. Space out your vines so they have plenty of room to spread along the trellis. Pinch the ends off the guyots as needed to prevent them from overgrowing. Wait for shoots to grow off the guyots during the third year. Remove any cracked or damaged shoots in early spring. The remaining branches grow vertically and produce grapes for you to harvest. Also, look for new branches sprouting from the original stem. Note which branches are new growth and which are old [11] Choose new shoots every year to serve as replacement spurs. Let them grow out during the season so they produce fruit the next year. Select some healthy canes to grow on either side of the stem. Locate some canes near the top of the original stem. They have to be below the trellis wire so you can train them to grow horizontally. Pick young shoots that have grown for a year, look undamaged and have a smooth, reddish-brown bark. Good canes are very thin, about as thick as your thumb.[12] These canes are replacement guyots. You need a single cane for each side of the trellis. The canes produce new growth and grapes during the next growing season. Pick another pair of shoots to cut back and use as replacement spurs. Find another pair of healthy shoots close to the top of your trellis. Using a pair of pruning shears, cut the shoots down until 1 or 2 buds are left. The buds are like green marbles where new branches split off of old ones, so they are pretty easy to spot.[13] You grow these replacement spurs to become replacement guyots next season. They sprout plenty of branches, giving you the ability to choose the strongest ones to become your next guyots. Remove all of the canes that produced grapes during the last season. The guyots and their branches overgrow after 2 years. Cutting them may seem like excessive pruning, but it's important for successful cane training. The older branches tend to be somewhat gray instead of a strong red-brown color. They also look a little ragged and have newer shoots coming out from their buds.[14] Cane pruning is about removing the old branches every year to make room for new growth. This includes the original guyots, so remember to cut them away too. Leave behind the new canes, including the replacement spurs, to keep your vines healthy. EditSetting up a Trellis Use a high cordon for strong vines that droop as they grow. A high cordon is one of the most common ways to grow vines. To create a high cordon, you set up a trellis with a single horizontal wire, usually about off the ground. You train the vines to grow across the wire, forming cordons or guyots, then you let the new growth hang down.[15] Some common grapes that grow well on a high cordon include Chambourcin, Chardonel, and Seyval Blanc. Build a low cordon to help weaker vines grow upward. In a low cordon, you place a series of wires close to the ground so the vines climb up them. First, set up your trellis as you normally would, but set up a series of horizontal wires off the ground. Grow your vines until they reach the lower wire and form cordons across them. Then, maintain the cordons with regular pruning so the new shoots grow up toward the higher wires.[16] Some varieties that grow well on low cordons include Chelois, St. Vincent, and Vignoles. To create a low cordon, try stringing another wire horizontally every between the top and bottom wires. Tie the new shoots to the wires as they grow upward. This prevents them from drooping or breaking. Use a bilateral cordon or guyot to space out your vines evenly. A bilateral system basically means your trellis has 2 arms. This is what most people use to grow vines since it is such a straightforward system to manage. In a bilateral system, you first grow the vine up the trellis, then train it by forcing it to grow horizontally to the left and right.[17] Bilateral systems are a great way to spread out multiple vines on a trellis. Decide how far you want each vine to grow, then pinch off the end of it to prevent it from growing past that point. An alternative is to grow the vine unilaterally, or in a single direction. This can be useful if your vine is at the end of a trellis or you don't have space to let it spread. Raise the vine as you normally would, but keep only a single cordon or guyot. Make a fan system to help vines climb fences or walls. The fan system creates a vine with a short trunk and several upright canes. To train the vine, grow it up to a low trellis wire about off the ground. Then, choose 2 to 4 of the healthiest canes to save as you prune off the others. Tie them to the trellis so they continue growing up toward the top of it.[18] Repeat selecting and pruning canes every year. Try to choose 3 to 4 fresh branches from the renewal spurs each year and remove the rest. After a few years, you may be able to grow 6 to 8 branches at a time. Fan training gets its name because the few branches you grow each year spread out into a fan-like shape. It's a great way to protect damaged vines or varieties that naturally grow upright. It is similar to creating a low cordon, except you don't grow cordons at all and have to prune all the shoots each year. Build an arbor to grow vines as a decoration. An arbor is meant to be a yard decoration for people to walk through, but it is also a perfect place to grow vines. Space out the vines around the arbor, letting them grow until they reach the top. Then, select the healthiest canes positioned about apart from one another, growing them to fill in the remaining space. Keep up with regular pruning, preserving renewal spurs so the vines continue growing and flowering every year.[19] An arbor is like a trellis, but it's a little harder to maintain. If you don't prune the vines heavily every year, they overgrow, tangle up, and produce lower-quality grapes. Unlike with a regular trellis, you can't let the vines grow very far horizontally or else they get tangled. Another option is to build a pergola. It is similar to an arbor, except it is meant to be a structure for people to sit under. EditTips Both cane and spur pruning are training methods used commercially to produce quality grapes. Spur pruning preserves older vines, which produce fewer but more flavorful grapes.[20] Pruning is an important part of training vines. If you don't prune vines every year, the branches quickly overgrow and tangle.[21] Vines with fewer branches produce fewer but higher-quality grapes. The world's most expensive wines, for instance, come from vines trained to produce small batches of flavorful grapes. EditThings You'll Need EditUsing Spur Pruning Grape cane Trellis Pruning shears Gardening gloves Patch of soil Watering hose Binding twine EditCutting Canes for Training Grape cane Trellis Pruning shears Gardening gloves Patch of soil Watering hose Binding twine EditReferences Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

How to Paint Furniture Shabby Chic Posted: 21 Jul 2019 09:00 AM PDT Inspired by rustic farmhouses and chic vintage pieces, the shabby chic style is a popular home decor trend. One way to accomplish it in your own home is with painted furniture. To paint a piece yourself, start by prepping the furniture by removing hardware and sanding it down. Then, if you want to distress it, try a technique that uses 2 different colors of paint. If you have wood furniture, consider whitewashing it for a worn look. Happy decorating! EditSteps EditPreparing the Furniture for Painting Move the furniture to a well-ventilated area if possible. Take the furniture outside or to a room with plenty of windows that can be opened. This will prevent you from breathing in dangerous fumes while you're painting. Have a friend help you move the furniture if it's too large or heavy for you to move alone. If you can't take it outside, put fans in the room where you're painting to help circulate the air. Cover the area underneath the furniture with a drop cloth. Lay a drop cloth under the piece of furniture to protect the floor or ground beneath it from spills or splatters. You can buy a drop cloth at a hardware store or from an online retailer.[1] If you don't have a drop cloth, use an old bed sheet, a plastic tarp, or a large trash bag. Remove any drawers or hardware. If you're painting something with drawers, like a dresser or end table, pull out the drawers and set them aside. Take off any hardware as well, like drawer pulls or knobs, using a screwdriver.[2] Take out the drawers even if you plan on painting them. You'll paint those separately. Sand the furniture with a medium-grit sandpaper to get rid of any gloss. Choose a sandpaper that's between 150 and 220 grit and run it all over the piece of furniture. Sanding the cabinets creates a rough surface that the paint can adhere to better.[3] Wear a mask and protective eyewear when sanding. Wipe the cabinets with a damp cloth after sanding, if necessary, to clean off any dust. EditCreating Distressed Furniture with Paint Paint a thin layer of your darker color all over the furniture. Take the darkest of your 2 paint colors and use a paintbrush to apply a very thin layer onto the furniture. Brush the paint so thin that you can still see some of the cracks or crevices of the original furniture underneath.[4] Use either latex or oil-based furniture paint. If you removed any drawers from your piece that you want painted, too, paint those now. Let the paint dry for 24 hours. Once you've covered the furniture in your base layer, leave it to dry overnight. It will dry fastest in a warm, dry area. After 24 hours, check that it's no longer tacky to the touch.[5] If you don't let it dry for long enough, your next layer will just smear the first layer instead of going on smoothly over top. Mix 2 parts of your lighter paint with 1 part water in a plastic container. Pour the paint and water into the container and use a wooden stir stick to blend them together. This dilutes the paint to make it more of a wash than a thick paint.[6] How much paint you need depends on the size of your furniture. For example, a tall bookcase will require more paint than a wall mirror. You can use a reusable plastic container, a paint bucket, or a paint tray to mix the paint and water. Paint the wash over the base layer with a foam brush. For this top coat, use a foam brush to apply the paint wash all over your piece of furniture. Keep the layer thin so it dries evenly and not streaky.[7] If you notice the paint bubbling when you brush it on, you used too much water. Add a little more paint to the mixture before continuing to apply it. You can use a foam roller instead of a foam brush if you'd prefer. Wipe some spots with a paper towel before the paint dries. In any areas that you want the furniture to look more worn, use a paper towel to wipe off some of the paint wash while it's still wet. This allows the darker layer to show through, giving it a vintage vibe.[8] You can wipe off as much or as little of the top layer as you'd like. The more you wipe off, the more distressed it will look. If you remove too much, simply brush it back on and blend it into the rest of the wash. Let the top layer dry for at least 24 hours. After you've wiped away any spots you want to, let the furniture sit overnight to dry. Check the paint can to find the exact drying time for your specific brand and type.[9] If you aren't sure how long your paint takes to dry, it's best to err on the side of caution and let it sit for longer rather than shorter than 24 hours. Sand the edges and corners of the furniture for an even more distressed look. Once your top layer of paint is completely dry, take a piece of fine-grit sandpaper, which is 180 to 220 grit, and run it over the edges and corners if you want more old-looking sections. Brush the sandpaper firmly over the areas you're distressing to remove some or all of the paint in that spot.[10] You can sand any section of the furniture as well, like the top or the fronts of the drawers. If you don't have sandpaper, you can use steel wool. EditWhitewashing Wood Furniture Mix 2 parts white latex paint with 1 part water in a paint tray. Pour the white latex paint and the water into the tray, then blend them together with a wooden stir stick. Combine them until thoroughly mixed.[11] Latex paint works best for whitewashing because it's water-based. You can use a paint bucket or plastic container instead of a paint tray if you'd like. However, the tray will be easiest for you to dip your roller in. Roll a thin layer of the paint wash onto your furniture. Once it's mixed, dip a small foam roller into the wash and use it to apply a layer all over your piece. Roll long, even strokes so the paint wash goes on evenly and doesn't clump up anywhere.[12] If there are any small spaces that your roller can't fit into, use a foam brush to paint them. Paint any drawers that you removed from the furniture, too. Wipe a sponge against the grain to remove some of the paint while it's wet. Before the paint dries, take a sponge and wipe it over the entire piece of furniture to create that streaky look. Run the sponge in the opposite direction of the grain to lift the paint.[13] To determine the direction of the grain, look at which way the rings or fibers in the wood are pointing. That's called with the grain. Let the paint dry for at least 24 hours. After you've wiped it down, leave the furniture overnight to dry. If you want to know the exact drying time for your specific paint brand and type, look on the back of the can.[14] Once it dries, decide if you're satisfied with the results. If the whitewashing is too thin, go back and add another layer. EditThings You'll Need EditPreparing the Furniture for Painting Drop cloth Medium-grit sandpaper Protective eyewear and mask Screwdriver (optional) Cloth (optional) EditCreating Distressed Furniture with Paint Paintbrush Foam brush Plastic container Wooden stir stick Water 2 different colors of furniture paint Paper towels Fine-grit sandpaper (optional) EditWhitewashing Wood Furniture Latex paint Paint tray Water Wooden stir stick Foam roller Sponge EditReferences Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

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