| How to Tie Dye Shorts Posted: 22 Aug 2019 01:00 AM PDT Tie dyeing never seems to go out of style, and trendsetters are always coming up with new ways to rock it! Tie dye shorts are a unique way to incorporate a bit of 60's flair into your wardrobe, and it is easy to create a pair yourself. Buy a pair of new or used white shorts to tie dye, choose your colors, and use the tie dye style that you like best! [Edit]Designing Your Tie Dye Shorts - Get a pair of white shorts that you are comfortable tie dyeing. You can use a pair of shorts you already own, or go out and buy a pair to tie dye! Check second hand stores and discount clothing stores for a low-cost pair of shorts. If you cannot find white shorts, get the lightest color denim shorts you can find, such as powder blue, cream, or light pink.
- You can also bleach a pair or dark denim shorts to tie dye. Just pour enough bleach over the shorts to saturate them. Do this while they are in a sink or bathtub, and then rinse the bleach out after they have lightened to the desired color.[1] Make sure to wear gloves when you do this.
- Choose 2 or more tie dye colors. You can choose complimentary or contrasting colors, but you will need at least 2 colors to get a tie dye effect. Tie dye colors are available at craft stores and big box stores. Some color combinations you might try include:
- A bright color paired with black, such as teal and black, or pink and black, or yellow and black.
- Rainbow colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple.
- Pastel colors, such as light pink, lavender, and powder blue.
- Lay the shorts flat for a layered tie dye effect. You can get a subtle tie dye effect without any special twisting or crumpling techniques. Just lay the shorts out on a flat surface and decide where and how you want to tie dye them.[2]
- For example, you could dye the area around the waistband 1 color, then dye the next section a different color, and so on to the bottom of the shorts.
- Crumple the shorts for bursts of color all over. You can crumple up the shorts like a piece of paper and then place rubber bands all over to secure them. The rubber bands should criss cross each other to create small sections all over the fabric. These sections will be your guides when you apply the tie dye.[3]
- Twist the shorts for a spiral tie dye effect. Choose a center point on the shorts and start twisting the shorts from that point. Then, place a rubber band about every to secure the twisted shorts and create neat sections for you to tie dye.[4]
- For example, you could grasp the shorts on the top corner where the waistband will fall on your hip and start twisting from there.
[Edit]Applying the Tie Dye - Wash and dry the shorts to get the best dye coverage. It is best to start with clean shorts, so run the shorts through your washer and dryer as you normally would.
- Make sure there are no other clothes in the washer if you have just bleached the shorts or the bleach will damage your other clothing.
- Place the shorts on a garbage bag to protect your surfaces. Tie dye can stain fabric, carpet, and other types of surfaces if it gets onto it, so make sure to protect your work area. Place a garbage bag over the area where you will be working before you start. Then, place your shorts and all of your materials onto the work surface.[5]
- Tie dye can also stain your skin and clothes if it gets onto it. Make sure to protect your hands with a pair of plastic, vinyl, or latex gloves before you begin.
- You should also put on an old t-shirt and pants to ensure that you do not accidentally stain some of your favorite clothes. If you have a dark colored apron, then you can wear it over your clothing while you tie dye.
- Soak the shorts in soda ash and water mixture for 20 minutes if desired. To get the brightest possible colors, you can start by soaking your shorts in a mixture of soda ash and water. Place the shorts into the soda ash and water mixture and let them soak for 20 minutes. Then, remove them from the solution and wring them out with your hands, but don't rinse them.[6]
- Soda ash is often included in tie dye kits, but if it isn't included, then you can also buy it separately. However, keep in mind that this is optional.
- Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing the soda ash and water.
- Mix the dye according to the manufacturer's instructions. Each tie dye bottle should only require that you add water and shake it well to prepare the dye, but read and follow the instructions that came with your tie dye kit.[7]
- Make sure to screw the lid onto the bottle well and cover the tip of the bottle with your gloved finger before you shake it.
- Squirt the tie dye onto the shorts in even layers for a gradient effect. If you are doing a layered tie dye, then go from the top to the bottom of your shorts and apply an equal amount of each color dye to each section. You can start with the darkest colors and then apply the lighter ones, or vice versa.[8]
- If you are using more than 2 colors, make sure to apply the other dyes in equal amounts to other equal-sized sections.
- Apply dye between rubber bands for a burst tie dye effect. If you are doing a burst-effect tie dye using crumpled shorts secured with rubber bands, then apply the dye in specific spots throughout the fabric. Use the rubber bands as your guides and fill each fabric section surrounded by the rubber bands with a different color dye. Leave some empty spots around each area where you apply the dye, and then use the next color(s) to fill in these areas.[9]
- If you are using a few colors, make sure to leave enough spaces blank to do an equal number of sections for each color.
- Dye sections in succession if you are doing twist tie dye. If you are doing a twist tie dye job, then apply the first dye to the first section. Then, count the number of spaces equal to the amount of dyes you are using to find where to apply this dye color next. Apply the dye and keep doing this until there are no more sections. Then, repeat the same process with the next color of dye starting at the second section.[10]
- For example, if you are dying with 3 colors, then apply the first dye to the first section, and then count to the next space 3 sections from that 1. Apply each color of dye to the sections in this way.
- Turn the shorts over and squirt the same dye colors onto the sections. No matter which type of tie dye effect you want to create, it is important to make sure both sides are dyed the same way. If you put different color dyes on the same section, they will mix together and change into a different color. Turn the shorts over after you finish applying the dye on the first side and then apply it exactly the same way on the other side.[11]
- Keep in mind that some color mixing is inevitable. You just want to avoid too much mixing to ensure that you get a vibrant multicolor effect.
[Edit]Rinsing and Drying Your Shorts - Let the shorts rest for 6 to 8 hours. It will take a while for the dye to saturate the fabric and bind with the fibers of your shorts, so plan to leave them alone for at least 6 hours or even overnight.[12] Make sure to place the shorts somewhere that they will be out of the way, such as in your bathtub or in a seldom used room.
- Keep the trashbag under the shorts or place them into a Ziploc bag to protect your surfaces from the dye.
- Keep the shorts out of the reach of children and pets.
- Remove the rubber bands. After the resting time is up, put on a fresh pair of gloves to protect your skin and take the rubber bands off of the shorts. Be careful not to slop the dye onto any of your surfaces as you do this. Take off the rubber bands over a trashbag, a bathtub, sink, or outside.
- Rinse the dye off the shorts. Rinse the shorts under lukewarm running water until the water runs clear. This will get the majority of the dye out so that it will not stain the other areas of the shorts when you wash them.[13]
- Make sure that you keep the gloves on while you rinse the shorts to protect your skin from the dye.
- Wash and dry the shorts separate from your other clothing. There will still be some dye left on the shorts after you rinse them, so running them through the washer is essential. Use a mild detergent and wash the shorts on the warm or cool setting, depending on what the fabric requires. Then, put the shorts into the dryer until they are completely dry.[14]
- Check the tag if you are not sure what temperature to wash the shorts on.
- After your shorts are clean and dry, they are ready to wear!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - White shorts
- Bleach (optional)
- Tie dye
- Soda ash (optional)
- Trash bag
- Gloves
- Old clothes and/or an apron
- Rubber bands
[Edit]References |
| How to Develop Film Posted: 21 Aug 2019 05:00 PM PDT In the digital age, film cameras are still widely popular as a retro way to take pictures. While many stores offer services where they can develop film or send orders to a lab, you can develop film in your own home with the right materials. Whether you have black and white or color film, you'll have to set up the proper workspace and dry your film. After that, you can develop your own negatives to print or scan later! [Edit]Setting up Your Workspace and Film - Work in a room without any visible light when your film is out of its canister. Work in a closed space, like a spare bathroom or large closet when you handle film you haven't exposed yet. Cover lit areas, like cracks underneath the door with tape or towels. Even a little bit of light can cause your negatives to fog and ruin the pictures you've taken.[1]
- Stand in the darkroom and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. See if there are any sources of light coming through that you couldn't see before.
- A red light should not be used in the room when you develop your film.
- Purchase the proper developer's kit for either black and white or color film. Search online or at specialty photography stores for a developer's kit. The kit includes all the chemicals you need in order to process your negatives. Make sure you choose the kit based on the type of film you're developing.[2]
- A full developer's kit will cost around $130 USD.
- The basic chemicals you'll receive in a developer's kit are a developer, a fixer, a stopper, and a wetting agent.
- Use liquid chemicals since they are easier to measure and mix.
- Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses. Since you'll be working with chemicals, use safe practices to protect your eyes and your skin. If you're worried about splashing the chemicals on your clothes as well, consider wearing an apron.[3]
- Take your film out of the canister in a dark room using a can opener. Make sure you're working in a completely dark room so your film doesn't fog. Wait until your eyes are adjusted to the dark so you can work easily. Place the sharp edge of the can opener on the bottom lip of the film canister. Push down on the can opener to pop the end off of the canister. Dump the film into your hand and get rid of the canister.[4]
- Lay your tools out in front of you so you can easily find them while you work in the dark.
- Cut the leading end of the film and start feeding it on the spiral. Use a pair of scissors to cut off the leading end of the film. Take the spiral, or the spool inside the film tank, out from the center of the tank. Find the protrusions on the inside of the spiral since these will mark the film's entry point. Pull the film onto the spiral.[5]
- The film spiral is usually set for a 35mm size. If you're working with a different sized film, adjust the width of the spiral to match.
- Rotate the sides of the spiral to wind the film. Pull out some of the film from the canister and twist one side of the spiral clockwise. The film will be pulled from the canister and spool onto the spiral. Keep rotating the spiral until the film runs out. Cut the end of the film with scissors to make the ends even.[6]
- Place the film spiral into the film tank and close it. Set the spiral on the bottom of the film tank and screw in the top piece to protect the film from any light. Place the lid on top until you're ready to pour the chemicals in. You can now turn the lights back on.[7]
- The top piece acts as a light blocker and a funnel to make it easier to pour your chemicals in later.
- You only need to work in the dark when you're loading your film into the tank. After it's inside, you can turn on the lights.
[Edit]Developing Black and White Film - Pour of developer liquid and of water into a large measuring cylinder. Use water that's room temperature, or about . Add the developer to the cylinder first before pouring in the water so it has a chance to mix.[8]
- The developer makes the image appear on the film negatives.
- The amount of developer you mix depends on how much film you're developing. Use this amount if you're developing one set of 35mm film.
- Always follow the mixing directions on the packaging carefully since it may vary from the amount listed here.
- Mix of stop bath with of water in a second cylinder. Keep the stop bath solution separate from the developer or else it will not work. Add room temperature water to the cylinder after the stop bath. Try to be as precise as you can with your amounts so there are no errors when the film develops.[9]
- The stop bath finishes the development process so your photos don't get overexposed.
- Put of fixer and of water in a third cylinder. Mix the solution with room temperature water in another cylinder or measuring cup. Give the solution a slight stir to make sure it's thoroughly mixed.
- The fixer makes the developed image permanent on the film strip.
- Pour the developer solution into the film tank for 9 minutes. Take the sealer cap off the top of the film tank and pour in all of the developer solution. Start a timer as soon as all the liquid is inside the tank. Replace the cap and turn the tank upside-down continuously for 10 seconds. Every minute, agitate the solution again. Pour the solution back into the cylinder after the 9 minutes.[10]
- Agitating the solution will make sure the developer evenly coats all of the film.
- Add the stop bath to the film tank and agitate it for 30 seconds. Pour all the stop bath into the tank and replace the sealer cap. Rock the tank back and forth for 30 seconds to stop your negatives from developing and overexposing. Once you're finished, pour the stop bath back into its cylinder.[11]
- Use the fixer solution for 5 minutes to completely stop the developing process. Put the solution into the tank and replace the cap. Agitate the tank for the first 10 seconds before setting it down again. Rock the tank back and forth once every minute for 5 total minutes. Pour the fixer back into the cylinder when you're finished.[12]
- Fixer can be reused with other film so pour the solution back into a storage bottle if you want to save it.
- Rinse the film with clean water to remove chemical residue. Fill the tank with room temperature water. Invert the tank 5 times before removing the water. Refill the tank 2 more times, increasing the number of inversions by 5 each time so you do 10 on the second fill and 15 on the third.[13]
- Use distilled water if possible so it doesn't leave drying spots on your film later on. Otherwise, tap water will work fine.
- Fill the film tank with water and add 1 drop of the wetting agent. Fill the tank with water once more with the wetting agent. Reseal the cap on top of the tank and invert it 5 times before dumping it out.[14]
- The wetting agent helps the film dry evenly and quickly.
[Edit]Developing Color Film - Heat the developer and the blix to in a bath of hot water. Fill either a large plastic tub or a sink with hot water, checking the temperature periodically with a kitchen thermometer. Once it reaches , place your bottles of chemicals in the bath until they reach the same temperature.[15]
- The developer makes the images appear on the film strip.
- The blix is a bleach and fixer solution that stops the development process and solidifies the image on the film strip.
- Rinse the film with warm water. Fill the film tank with water heated to about and seal the cap on top. Agitate the water by rocking or inverting the tank back and forth for 1 minute so the chemicals can stick to the film easier. Once you're done rinsing, empty the tank.[16]
- Fill the film tank with the developer solution and let it soak for 4 minutes. Fill the tank with the developer solution provided in your chemical kit and seal the tank. Invert the tank repeatedly for the first 10 seconds and then once every minute. This ensures that the developer coats the film evenly and allows all the images to develop. After 4 minutes, drain the tank.[17]
- Store the developer in an airtight storage bottle if you want to reuse it later on.
- Pour the blix into the film tank and let it sit for 6 minutes. Fill the tank and seal the cap. Agitate the solution for 10 seconds. Once every minute, rock the tank back and forth to agitate it again. After 6 minutes have passed, empty the tank.[18]
- Save the blix in a storage bottle if you want to use it again for more film, but don't let it mix with the developer. If any of the blix mixes with the developer, it will not work.
- Rinse the tank and film in warm water. Fill the tank with water heated to and agitate the water to clean off any of the chemicals. Empty the water after about 30 seconds.[19]
- Put your stabilizer in the film tank and soak the film for 1 minute. Fill the tank with the stabilizer and leave the film inside. You do not have to agitate the stabilizer for it to work. After 1 minute, drain the stabilizer from the tank and your film is done.[20]
- If your chemical kit does not come with a stabilizer, then all you need to do is rinse your film.
[Edit]Drying Your Negatives - Attach a clip to the end of your film strip. Remove the film spiral from the tank and gently pull the end of the film strip out. Use a clothespin or a similar clip to hold onto the end of the film.[21]
- The end of the film strip will not have any exposed photos on it so you don't have to worry about damaging them.
- Pull the film off of the spiral slowly and hang the strip off the ground. Hold the clip with one hand and the spiral with the other. Pull slowly on the clip so the film unravels from the spool. Place the clip along a string so the film doesn't touch the ground or the wall. Don't let anything touch the negatives.[22]
- Work in a clean room where wind or dust won't damage your negatives.
- Wipe any excess liquid off the film strip with a squeegee or your gloves. Start from the top of the film strip and gently squeeze it between 2 fingers or a squeegee tongs. Work down the entire length of the film so there is no dripping water.[23]
- Wear clean vinyl or rubber gloves if you're using your fingers.
- Attach a weighted clip to the bottom of the film strip. Place another clip on the bottom of the strip so it doesn't twist or deform while it dries. The clip will also catch any drips that fall off of the film strip.[24]
- Put a tray on the ground below the film strip if you don't want water or chemicals falling onto the floor.
- Let the strip dry for at least 4 hours. Don't touch your strips for at least 2 hours after you've cleaned and hung them to dry. Check how wet the film still is each hour by touching an area without an exposed photo. Once they are dry, they can be stored or scanned.[25]
- To speed up the drying process, use a hairdryer on the lowest speed and heat setting and hold it from the film strip.
[Edit]Warnings - Work in a room that doesn't have any visible light or else your negatives may be foggy.
- Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves since you're working with chemicals.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Room with no visible light
- Developer's kit for black and white or colored film
- Rubber gloves
- Safety glasses
- Film tank
- Film spiral
- Can opener
- Scissors
- Kitchen thermometer
- Measuring cylinders or cups
- Pins or clips
- Squeegee tongs
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Volcano Posted: 21 Aug 2019 09:00 AM PDT A volcano is a fun science project, especially for kids. You can easily make a volcano if you need a project idea for a science fair! Make your own dough out of common household items and shape it into a volcano. Then, paint the volcano to make it more life-like, and add your ingredients for the eruption! [Edit]Mixing the Dough - Mix 3 cups of flour, 1 cup of salt, 1 cup of water, and of oil. Measure out each of the ingredients and put all of them into a large bowl. Use a fork or a spoon to mix everything together.[1]
- The dough will be hard to mix after a few minutes, so you might want to ask for help from a parent, teacher, or older sibling.
- Knead the dough with your hands to form it into a ball. When the dough mixture gets too stiff to mix with a fork or spoon, use your hands instead. Squeeze and press the dough like clay to mix everything together. Use your hands to shape the dough into a big ball.[2]
- Make sure to knead the dough on a sturdy surface, such as a table or counter. 4
- Using a rolling pin to flatten and knead the dough may also be helpful.
- Pour in 1 tablespoon of water if the dough won't stick together. If the dough is crumbling off the ball while you knead it, then it is too dry. Add 1 tablespoon of water. Then, use your hands to knead the dough and mix in the water.[3]
- If the dough is still dry, add 1 teaspoon of water at a time until it sticks together.
- Be careful not to add too much water or the dough may become sticky!
- Add 2 tablespoons of flour if the dough is too sticky. If you can't get the dough to stop sticking to your hands, then it is too sticky. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of flour. Use your hands to knead the extra flour into the dough.
- If the dough still feels sticky, add 1 more tablespoon of flour and knead. Keep doing this until it feels smooth and does not stick to your hands.
- Don't add too much flour or the dough will not stick together.
[Edit]Creating a Volcano Shape - Press the dough ball onto the center of a tray or box lid. Your volcano will make a mess when it erupts. Put it onto a rimmed tray or box lid and press down on the ball to attach it. This will help to contain the mess.[4]
- If you are using a tray, make sure to ask your parent or guardian first. Don't use one that you might want to use again because attaching your volcano to the tray will ruin it.
- The lid of a cardboard box will also work, but make sure to ask a parent or guardian first!
- Use your hands to shape the dough to look like a mountain. Press your hands against the sides of the dough ball to shape it. Make the dough ball into a mountain shape using your hands.[5]
- Ask for help from an adult or older sibling if the dough is too stiff to shape!
- There are several different types of volcanoes. Some have steeper slopes than others, and some are even flat at the top. You can shape the dough to look like a specific type of volcano, but keep in mind that most will have an uneven surface and won't be completely flat.[6]
- Push a small glass cup or jar into the center of the dough mountain. After the dough is in the shape of a mountain, take a small (roughly ), cylinder-shaped glass cup or jar and press it down through the center of the mound. Push down until the edges of the cup or jar are level with the top of the dough mound. This glass or jar will be the opening of the volcano.[7]
- This part can be hard. Ask for help from your parents or someone else with strong hands if you cannot get the cup or jar to go down into the dough.
- Make sure to ask for your parent or guardian's permission before you use a cup or jar! It will become part of the volcano and you won't be able to use it again.
- Shape the dough around the cup to make it look like a volcano. Once the cup or jar is in place, begin shaping the dough again to make it look like a volcano. Use your hands to press the dough around the cup or jar.[8]
- Keep in mind that volcanoes are not perfectly smooth! They are rocky and rough on the outside, so it is okay if your dough is a bit bumpy.
- Remember that you can make your volcano look like a specific type of volcano if you want to get technical, or just make a standard volcano. Search for images of volcanoes on the internet to find 1 that you would like to model your volcano after.
[Edit]Painting the Volcano - Wait for the dough to dry completely before painting the volcano. The dough will need to dry for at least 8 hours, so leave it out overnight. Place it somewhere out of the reach of pets so that it will not get damaged, such as up on a high shelf or in a room away from pets.
- The clay will feel hard to the touch when it is dry. Check it after about 8 hours by pressing it.
- If the dough is still soft after 8 hours, give it a few more hours to dry.
- Apply a coat of brown or black paint to the outside of the volcano. Acrylic paint works best for painting a volcano. Choose a paint color that will make your volcano look more realistic. Try painting it a medium brown, dark brown, or black. Use a large paintbrush to sweep paint over the sides of the volcano and cover it completely.[9]
- Make sure to put down some old newspapers or paper towels before painting to protect your work surface.
- You might also want to put on an old t-shirt.
- Paint the inside of the volcano orange or yellow for added effect. If you want the inside of your volcano to look like it has lava in it, you could also paint the cup inside of the volcano. Use a medium sized paintbrush to apply the paint.
- Opt for a bright orange for a vivid contrast to your brown or black paint on the outside of the volcano.
- You can make orange paint by mixing equal amounts of red and yellow paint.
- Let the paint dry overnight before making an eruption. The paint on the inside and outside of your volcano should be completely dry before you make the volcano erupt. Let it dry overnight to be sure it is dry. Otherwise, the paint may run when you add the eruption ingredients.[10]
- Place the volcano out of the reach of pets, such as up on a high shelf or closed room.
- You can touch the paint to see if it is dry. It will feel tacky if it is wet and smooth if it is dry.
[Edit]Making the Eruption - Put 2 tablespoons of baking soda into the volcano. Measure out 2 tablespoons of baking soda and add these to the cup in your volcano. Make sure that the inside of the volcano is completely dry when you do this. Any moisture may cause the baking soda to fizz before you want it to.[11]
- Baking soda is a common household item, so you probably have some.
- Ask a parent or guardian before you use the baking soda.
- Squirt about 1 teaspoon of dish soap onto the baking soda. The dish soap will make the eruption extra foamy. You only need a 1 teaspoon to get this effect.[12]
- Any type of dish soap will work! Use whatever is in your kitchen.
- Make sure to ask for permission from your parent or guardian first![13]
- Add a few drops of red and yellow food coloring to the volcano. Food coloring will make the foam look more like lava. Add a few drops of red and a few drops of yellow food coloring for a bright lava flow.[14]
- If you have orange food coloring, you can also use this to color the lava.
- Pour in vinegar to make the volcano erupt! Vinegar is the final ingredient and as soon as you add it, your volcano will erupt! Pour it in when you want the eruption to happen.[15]
- Don't add the vinegar until you are ready for the eruption! You can leave the other ingredients in the volcano for as long as you need until you are ready to make the volcano erupt.
- You can pour in extra vinegar if there is still some baking soda in the bottom of the jar.[16]
- If you don't want to make your own dough and form a volcano, you can add the eruption ingredients to an empty 2 Liter soda bottle. The ingredients will cause a volcano-like eruption out of the top of the soda bottle![17]
[Edit]Warnings - Don't look down into the volcano while it erupts!
- Ask a parent or guardian for permission before you do this experiment. You may also need help from an adult for some parts of the experiment.
- Stand back after you pour in the vinegar!
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Mixing the Dough - 3 cups of flour
- 1 cup of salt
- 1 cup of water
- 2 tablespoons of oil
[Edit]Shaping the Volcano - A tray or box lid
- A small plastic or glass cup
[Edit]Painting the Volcano - Brown paint
- Orange paint
- Paintbrushes
[Edit]Making the Volcano Erupt - 2 TBS baking soda
- Dish soap
- Red food coloring
- Yellow food coloring
- of white vinegar
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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