| How to Paint a Mural Posted: 03 Oct 2019 01:00 AM PDT Painting a mural takes plenty of preparation, equipment, and effort. A mural is basically a large work of art placed directly on a wall. It requires a lot of the same basic techniques as smaller paintings, but on a larger scale. With a mural, you often need to outline your design with a grid and then lay down paint strategically so the colors dry when you're done with them. Murals are often painted in layers, then finished with a varnish to be preserved for long-term enjoyment. [Edit]Cleaning and Protecting the Painting Area - Choose a suitable location for your mural. Artists paint murals on large, visible surfaces. The easiest surface to work with is a flat wall without a lot of obstructions. The amount of wall space you need depends on the size of the mural you plan on creating. Factor in your ability to access higher parts of the surface you wish to paint.[1]
- Dedicated painters make just about any surface work. Some painters prefer corrugated metal, brick, or even ceilings. A bumpy surface can give your mural a unique texture.
- Remember to get permission if you don't own the wall space. You have free reign inside your home if you own it, but ask before you paint on someone else's property or a public space.
- Set up scaffolding or a ladder if you can't reach the entire wall. For most mural projects, you will need some sort of boost to reach high areas. Use a small stepladder to access areas you can't otherwise reach. If you need to go up high, set up scaffolding or rent an aerial lift.[2]
- Check with local home improvement stores and construction supply companies. Many rent scaffolding that will allow you to paint high areas safely.
- If your painting surface is low enough, you don't need scaffolding. Paint while standing.
- Clean the wall with soap and water to remove impurities. Check the wall over for signs of damage, difficult stains, and other issues you need to treat before you begin. Any debris on the wall will show up in your work. Mix about of a basic liquid laundry detergent or dish soap into a bucket of water, then scrub the wall with a rag. Let the wall dry before you start painting.[3]
- For mold, grease, and other stubborn stains, get trisodium phosphate from a home improvement store. Mix it in water to create an effective cleaning solution.
- Repair damaged areas as needed. For example, fill in cracks with spackle. Paint over damaged areas you can't repair or incorporate them into your design.
- Protect adjacent surfaces with painter's tape and a drop cloth if needed. Use blue painter's tape to form a border around your mural surface. Set out a drop cloth underneath the wall to catch dripping paint.[4]
- Painter's tape and drop cloths are available at most home improvement stores.
- Pre-paint the wall a solid color if you need to make it uniform. This base layer of paint creates a background for your mural. It can be multiple colors if you have a design for your mural in mind. If not, try a light color like white that is easy to paint over later.[5]
- For example, if you're planning on painting a landscape, you might paint the sky a pale blue, then paint the foreground green. At this point, you're only creating a background, so forget about adding small details.
- To cover a lot of space quickly, use tools like a paint roller, sprayer, or even a sponge.
[Edit]Pre-Sketching Your Design - Draw your mural design on a piece of paper before painting it. Plan your mural design by making a basic mock-up. Use pencil, pen, and any other tools you feel comfortable drawing with. Some common themes of murals include landscapes, fictional characters, sports and cities. You don't need to color the image or factor in the mural's size yet.[6]
- This is a template for your finished mural. You will need it if you plan on transferring the design to the mural using a grid.
- To come up with a mural theme, ask anyone you're working with, including the building owner. If you're working in your own home, think of what inspires you, what you enjoy drawing, and what you want to look at every day.
- Measure the wall space you have available for your mural. Climb up your ladder or scaffolding to reach the top part of your mural. Using a tape measure, measure from the ceiling to the bottom edge of the wall. Also, measure across the wall to find out how much wall space you have to work with.
- If you are unable to measure a big wall, ask the property owner for a blueprint or other documents containing the measurements. You may need to estimate the wall's dimensions.
- Create a grid over the design you drew on paper. Using a pencil and ruler, make a series of intersecting horizontal and vertical lines. Measure your template paper as needed to figure out its size and space the grid lines evenly. As a general rule of thumb, space the grid lines apart, since grids of this size work for just about any mural.[7]
- Factor in the size of the wall when making the grid. For larger, more complex murals, divide up the sketch with more frequent grid lines.
- Each grid box contains a small part of your image that you will transfer to the finished mural later.
- Draw a grid on the mural wall in chalk. Do a little math in order to transfer the grid properly from your paper to the wall. Multiply the reference drawing's dimensions to blow them up to the size of the wall. The template grid and the wall grid need to be at a 1 to 1 ratio, having an equal number of lines spaced a proportionate distance apart.[8]
- For example, if the wall is , break the paper down into a squares. Every on the paper equals of wall space.
- For instance, your reference image is . Your wall is . If you multiply the dimensions by 2, making each grid on the wall , you can easily transfer your design.
[Edit]Transferring and Finalizing Your Design - Outline your mural's main features in pencil on the wall. Choose a quality woodworking pencil, then place details like trees, clouds, and characters on the wall. Follow the grid system to transfer your design to the wall. Look at your drawing to find out what cell the detail is in, then transfer it to the corresponding cell on the wall.[9]
- For example, you might have a cloud in the upper left corner of your sketch. Draw it again the upper left corner of the grid on the wall.
- Another way to do this is by projecting an image onto the wall. Use a digital projector to transfer images from your computer or another device. Then, sketch your outline over the projected image.[10]
- If you're working on a colored wall, use a permanent marker or chalk instead of a pencil.
- Draw fine details onto your sketch with an art pencil. Purchase a relatively dark pencil so your outlines show up on the wall. Choose a pencil based on its lead rating. A 2B pencil is often a great choice to create dark lines that don't smudge easily. Continue filling in the mural grid according to the template you drew. Use the art pencil for facial features, individual tree branches, and other small details that emphasize your mural's overall design.[11]
- The complexity of your design influences how much time you spend sketching. If you're doing characters, you're probably better off sketching all of the fine details.
- If you're confident in your abilities, you can even try sketching or painting details freehand. You could add new components to your work that you didn't include in your initial design.
- Pick an acrylic paint paint to resist tough outdoor weather. Try a 100% acrylic product with a high lightfastness rating. That way, your mural won't fade or change colors over time. Basic outdoor wall paint with an eggshell finish is a great choice for most projects.[12]
- Oil-based alkyd enamel or polyurethane enamel paints are also an option. Oil-based paints produce richer, darker colors, but tend to yellow as they age.
- Choose latex paints for an inexpensive way to cover indoor wall space. Latex paints offer easier cleanup, lower costs, and less odor. Most household latex wall paints resist water and don't crack easily over time. They also tend to mix well with acrylic paints to give you unique shades for your wall. Choose a paint with an eggshell finish to avoid glare.[13]
- Latex is an inexpensive option for covering large backgrounds. If you like acrylic paint, consider switching to acrylics for detailed work.
- Be aware of the ventilation in your home. Open up nearby windows and turn on fans to blow out paint fumes. Wear a dust mask as you work.
- Mix your paint colors as needed while you paint. Although you need a lot of paint for a mural, don't go overboard while mixing. To avoid wasted paint, focus on a single color at a time. Mix enough paint for the area you need to cover. That way, you create a consistent color that won't dry out before you're able to finish layering it on the mural.[14]
- Start with the colors for the background, then move on to large shapes and details in your design.
- If you're using a paint roller, mix paint in a paint roller tray. Bowls and even baking trays are great for mixing paint for brush painting. Use palettes, trays, or paper plates to mix multiple colors on a single surface.
- Paint over the largest areas in your design with a paint roller or sprayer. Work from the "back" of your picture to the front. Lay down the base colors in your design first, taking care to keep clean transition edges from one color to the next. Try to mix as much of a color as you need and apply it in a single go to prevent the paint from drying out before you're done.[15]
- Rollers and sprayers are best for covering large, wide areas. Use a paintbrush to color small and difficult areas, such as a character's face or clothing.
- Always allow each color to dry before proceeding to the adjacent color unless you need to blend them together. Blending creates shading and intermediate colors for your design.
- Wait at least 30 minutes before adding a fresh layer of paint. You probably will need to go over each layer of paint 2 to 3 more times to get it to look perfect. Quality acrylic and latex house paints dry within about an hour. The drying time varies depending on the paint you have, so consult the manufacturer's recommendations if possible.[16]
- Weather affects the time it takes for paint to dry. Set aside extra time for the paint to dry in cold or humid environments.
- Some oil paints require as long as 24 hours to cure before you are able to touch them up.
- Paint in the remaining details with different brush sizes. Get a few different brushes to tackle all of the detail work your design calls for. Any brush you use to paint on paper or canvas will work. Synthetic brushes are usually a good choice if you need something that will last a while. Save the largest brush for coloring open spaces and the smallest brush for the most intricate details.[17]
- For example, if you're painting a tree, use a large brush, roller, or sprayer for the trunk and limbs. Switch to a smaller brush for tiny branches and twigs.
- Remember to wait at least 30 minutes for the previous paint layer to dry or else the colors will blend together.
- Add outlines, shadows, and other details with black paint. Choose an appropriate paintbrush, usually the smallest one. These details are usually fine, so they are tough to add on a large scale without mistakes. If you do make a mistake, wipe up the paint carefully with soap and water or paint over it again when it dries.[18]
- For example, if you drew characters in your mural, adding outlines distinguishes them from the background colors.
[Edit]Completing and Sealing the Mural - Clean up your work by painting over mistakes. Step back and take a look at your work. You will probably notice a few spots where the colors didn't blend well, the paint ran, or some other issue. Most mistakes are pretty simple to fix. Let the mural dry, then go over the damaged spots with another layer of paint.[19]
- Mix new paint as needed to match the color you need to fix. Mixing an exact match is very difficult. Blend the new paint in with the old as much as possible.
- Wait about a week for the paint to dry completely. Paint feels dry to the touch within 24 hours or less, but that doesn't mean its ready for varnishing. Moisture may still be underneath the top layer. As a rule of thumb, wait at least a week. Some artists like to wait as long as 6 weeks to ensure the paint seals correctly.[20]
- The amount of time you need to wait varies depending on the paint you use and other factors. Thick coatings of paint take longer to dry out. Cold or damp environments also cause paint to dry more slowly.
- Oil-based paints can take 6 months to a year to dry completely. If the paint feels dry to the touch after about 1 week, put a layer of varnish on it. Cover it with a final varnish after the paint finishes curing.
- Seal the mural with a clear varnish to protect it. Choose a clear, water-based, non-yellowing paint varnish. Matte or even satin varnishes work best since glossy varnishes look a little too shiny on murals. Mix the varnish with water to turn in into a paint. Then, use a wide paintbrush to coat the entire mural. Add a second coating after the varnish dries within a day to finish your mural.[21]
- Using a varnish protects the paint from debris and damage. Always use an acrylic varnish for outdoor murals.
- Make sure the varnish is removable. If it is, you can scrub it off when you need to touch up the paint underneath it.
- Work slowly when painting a mural. You do need to cover a lot of space, but working too quickly leads to mistakes that take even more time to fix.
- To clean up paint before it dries, blot it with a moist paper towel. If the towel is too wet, it may drip and leave streaks.
- Clean up a mural with a paper towel or cloth dampened lightly in water. Avoid using scouring pads or harsh cleaners that can wear away the paint.
- When sketching a design for a new mural, draw as much detail on the wall as possible. Check the drawing's proportions from a distance before you begin painting.
- Rollers on long sticks are great if you have limited space, are on stairs, or don't have access to a ladder.
[Edit]Warnings - Paint fumes are dangerous, so wear a paint respirator and work in a ventilated area.
- Use caution when working from high scaffolding or elevated positions. Work on level ground and get rid of distractions to avoid falling.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Tape measure
- Sketching paper
- Woodworking pencil, permanent marker, or chalk
- 2B art pencil
- Kneadable eraser
- Paint
- Paint mixing plates or trays
- Paintbrushes
- Rollers, sprayers, or alternative tools
- Painter's tape
- Drop sheet
- Ruler or projector for outlining
- Water-based varnish
- Paper towels
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Ravioli Posted: 02 Oct 2019 05:00 PM PDT If you love the taste of handmade ravioli but hate the high cost, make ravioli at home. Mix a simple egg dough that rests while you make a filling. Try a classic cheese filling, a hearty sausage filling, or a flavorful mushroom filling. Let the filling cool while you roll out the dough by hand or with a pasta machine. Then spoon the filling on the dough by hand or use a ravioli mold. Trim or remove the assembled ravioli and boil them for a few minutes in salty water. [Edit]Ingredients - 3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon (5.5 g) salt
- 4 eggs
- olive oil
- 1 egg yolk plus water, for the egg wash
- 1 tablespoon (16. g) salt for boiling
Makes enough dough for 2 dozen ravioli [Edit]Cheese Filling[2] - ricotta
- 1 pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- Zest of 1/2 a lemon
- 1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
- 1 large egg
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Makes 1 1/2 pounds (555 g) of filling [Edit]Italian Sausage Filling[3] - bulk Italian sausage
- 3/4 cup (22.5 g) packed fresh spinach leaves
- 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
- 1/3 cup (81 g) ricotta cheese
- 1 teaspoon (0.5 g) snipped fresh sage or 1/4 teaspoon (0.2 g) dried sage, crushed
- 1/8 teaspoon (0.3 g) ground nutmeg
Makes 6 ounces (170 g) of filling [Edit]Mushroom Filling[4] - 1/2 ounce (14 g) dried porcini mushrooms
- 1 1/2 cups (110 g) fresh mushrooms, finely chopped
- olive oil
- 1 tablespoon (4 g) snipped fresh Italian parsley
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1/4 teaspoon (2.75 g) salt
- 1/8 teaspoon (0.2 g) ground black pepper
- 1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
- 1/2 cup (123 g) ricotta cheese
Makes 1 cup (250 g) of filling [Edit]Making the Ravioli Dough - Mix the flour with the salt. Measure 3 cups (375 g) of all-purpose flour into the bowl of a stand mixer and add 1 teaspoon (5.5 g) of salt. Attach the dough hook to the mixer and turn the mixer on to low so the flour and salt are combined.
- If you prefer to make the dough by hand, put the flour directly on your work surface and use your fingers to mix in the salt.
- Beat in 4 eggs 1 at a time. Keep the mixer running on low and add 1 egg. Once the egg is incorporated into the flour, add another egg. Continue to beat the eggs 1 at a time until all 4 eggs are mixed in. The mixture should start to form a ball.
- If you're mixing by hand, make a well in the center of the flour. Crack all 4 eggs into it and use a fork to whisk the eggs and flour together.
- Mix in of olive oil on low speed. Keep the mixer running and slowly pour in the oil. Once the oil is combined, the dough will become a shaggy ball that's not completely smooth.
- To mix in the oil by hand, drizzle the oil over the dough and mix it in with your hands.
- Knead the ravioli dough for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle a little flour on your work surface and transfer the dough to it. Use the palms of your hands to knead the dough. Work the dough until it becomes smooth and stretchy.
- Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and rest it for 30 minutes. Tear off a piece of plastic wrap and use it to completely wrap the ravioli dough. Leave the dough to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- Resting the dough will relax the gluten so the pasta doesn't become tough.
[Edit]Mixing a Filling - Mix ricotta with Parmesan for a cheesy filling. Put of ricotta into a bowl along with 1 pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, the zest of 1/2 a lemon, 1 cup (100 g) of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, 1 large egg, and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.
- Stir the mixture until the ingredients are completely combined.
- Brown sausage to make a meaty filling. Cook of Italian sausage in a skillet over medium-high heat until it's completely brown. Stir in 3/4 cup (22.5 g) of fresh spinach until it wilts. Then drain any grease in the pan. Mix 1 egg yolk with 1/3 cup (81 g) of ricotta cheese 1 teaspoon (0.5 g) of fresh sage or 1/4 teaspoon (0.2 g) of dried sage and 1/8 teaspoon (0.3 g) of nutmeg in another bowl. Stir it into the meat until it's combined.
- If you're concerned that the meat is too coarse to fill the ravioli, transfer the browned sausage to a food processor. Pulse the meat until it's fine and then stir in the ricotta mixture.
- Sauté mushrooms for a vegetarian filling. Soak 1/2 ounce (14 g) of dried porcini mushrooms in boiling water for 15 minutes and drain them. Sauté 1 1/2 cups (110 g) of fresh mushrooms in of olive oil over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Then chop and stir in the reconstituted porcini mushrooms, 1 tablespoon (4 g) of parsley, and 1 clove of minced garlic. Turn off the burner and stir in:
- 1/4 teaspoon (2.75 g) of salt
- 1/8 teaspoon (0.2 g) of ground black pepper
- 1 lightly beaten egg yolk
- 1/2 cup (123 g) of ricotta cheese
[Edit]Rolling and Assembling the Ravioli by Hand - Cut the dough into 6 equal pieces and put 1 on your work surface. Wrap the remaining 5 pieces in plastic wrap and refrigerate them while you're rolling 1 piece of dough. Lightly sprinkle your work surface with flour and place the piece of dough in it.[5]
- Working with 1 piece of dough at a time will prevent the dough from drying out.
- Dust the dough with flour and roll the dough into a rectangle. Sprinkle a little flour over the piece of dough to prevent it from sticking to the rolling pin. Roll away from the center of the dough towards the edges. Keep rolling and turning the dough until you've made a rectangle and the dough is 1/8-in (3 mm) thick.
- Sprinkle more flour if the dough starts to stick.
- The rectangle can be any length, but needs to be 4 in (10 cm) wide.
- If you've accidentally rolled the dough too thin, gather it into a ball and re-roll it.
- Make an egg wash and brush it over the dough. Put 1 egg yolk into a small bowl and add of water. Use a fork to beat the mixture. Then dip a pastry brush in the egg wash and brush the entire surface of the dough with the wash.
- Keep in mind that you won't use all of the egg wash for this 1 piece of dough.
- The egg wash will help the pasta bind together and will help the filling stick to the dough.
- Spoon 1 tablespoon (15 g) of filling 2 in (5 cm) apart on the dough. Spoon or pipe your choice of filling lengthwise on the rectangle of dough. Leave 2 in (5 cm) of space between each spoonful of filling so you have room to form and cut individual ravioli. Work along 1 edge of the rectangle.
- Use cooled filling so it doesn't begin to heat the dough.
- Fold the dough over lengthwise to cover the filling. Bring the unfilled side of the rectangle over and onto the side with the filling. The rectangle should be as long as you made it, but now it will be about 2 in (5 cm) wide.
- Press the air from the ravioli and cut them out. Use your index and middle finger to gently press down around each mound of filling. This will push out air and seal the pasta dough. Then use a knife, pasta crimper, cookie cutter, or overturned glass to cut out each ravioli.
- If you're using a knife, cut the ravioli in any shape you like. For example, make squares, circles, or triangles.
- Roll out and assemble the remaining dough with filling. Set aside the assembled ravioli and dust them with a little cornmeal to keep them from sticking together. Then get out another piece of dough and put it on your floured work surface. Continue to roll, fill, and cut all of the reserved dough.
- Check each ravioli to ensure that all of the edges are sealed. This will prevent filling from escaping as the ravioli boil.
- Cover the assembled ravioli with a towel to prevent them from drying out while you make the rest of the ravioli.
[Edit]Using Equipment to Roll and Assemble the Ravioli - Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and put 1 on your work surface. Wrap the remaining 3 pieces in plastic wrap and refrigerate them while you're rolling 1 piece of dough through the pasta machine.
- Working with only 1 piece of dough at a time will prevent the dough from drying out.
- Press the dough into a rectangle and run it through the machine. Make the rectangle as wide as your pasta machine rollers are. Then adjust your machine so it's at its widest setting. Guide and roll the dough through the machine.
- Use the palm of your hand to help the pasta roll out of the machine.
- Roll the dough through the machine until it's 1/8-in (3 mm) thick. Continue to guide the dough into the machine's rollers and pass the dough through until it's thin enough to see your palm through.
- You'll probably have to roll the dough through your machine 2 to 3 times.
- Lay a sheet of rolled dough over the metal ravioli maker. Place the metal base of your ravioli maker on your work surface. Drape the rolled sheet of pasta dough over the base.
- You shouldn't be able to see the metal base once you've placed the pasta over it.
- Some ravioli makers are round, square, or rectangular.
- Press the plastic mold down into the dough. If your pasta maker came with a plastic piece that's the size of the mold, place it directly on the sheet of pasta. Push down gently so the dough is pressed down a little. If your machine doesn't have the mold, use your thumb to make a slight indention on each ravioli spot.
- The depressions in the dough will make it easier to fill the ravioli.
- If you push too hard and the dough tears, gather the dough into a ball and run it through the pasta machine again.
- Spoon 1 tablespoon (15 g) of filling in each indentation and tap the mold. Spoon or pipe your choice of cooled filling in each of the depressions. Ensure that you don't spread the filling outside of the indentation or the filling will leak as the ravioli cook. Gently tap the mold down on the work surface.
- Tapping the mold will release air bubbles that are trapped.
- Lay rolled pasta dough over the mold and press down gently. Use another sheet of pasta dough and place it over the dough with the filling. Press down gently with the palm of your hand to remove air that's trapped between the sheets of dough.
- Run a rolling pin over the dough so the filled ravioli are cut from the mold.
- Turn the mold over to release the formed ravioli. Flip the mold over so the ravioli fall away from the mold. If some stick to the mold, use your fingers to peel them off. You can also try tapping the mold.
- Dust the assembled ravioli with a little cornmeal and cover them with a towel. Covering them will prevent the ravioli from drying out while you make the rest of the ravioli.
[Edit]Cooking the Ravioli - Bring a large pot of water to boil over high heat. Pour of cold water into a 5 to 6-quart (4.7 to 5.6-liter) pot. Put the lid on the pot and turn the burner to high heat.
- The water should come to a vigorous bubble.
- Add 1 tablespoon (16 g) of salt to the water along with the ravioli. Stir the salt so it dissolves and lower the ravioli into the boiling water.
- Avoid dumping the ravioli into the boiling water because it will splash out of the pot.
- Boil the ravioli for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir the ravioli once or twice as they boil. They will float to the top of the pot once they've finished cooking.
- If you overcook the ravioli, they'll start to open up or disintegrate in the water.
- Remove and serve the cooked ravioli. Turn off the burner and use a slotted spoon to scoop the ravioli out of the pot. Transfer the ravioli to a skillet with your favorite warm sauce or place them on individual serving plates. Drizzle the ravioli with chipped herbs and a drizzle of olive oil if desired.
- Refrigerate leftover ravioli in an airtight container for up to 3 to 5 days.
[Edit]Ravioli Filling and Sauce Suggestions - If you're going to freeze unused ravioli, place them about a 1/2 inch apart on a sheet, dust with flour to prevent sticking, and then freeze. Once frozen, you can transfer the raviolis into a smaller container. Put the frozen ravioli in an airtight container and freeze it for up to 1 month.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring cups and spoons
- Stand mixer with dough hook
- Plastic wrap
- Mixing bowls
- Skillet
- Spoon
- Knife and cutting board
- 5 to 6-quart (4.7 to 5.6-liter) pot with lid
- Slotted spoon
- Rolling pin
- Small bowl
- Fork
- Pasta machine
- Knife, cookie cutter, pasta crimper, or glass
- Pastry brush
- Ravioli mold
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Hang a Bike in a Garage Posted: 02 Oct 2019 09:00 AM PDT Hanging a bike or bikes in your garage is an excellent way to free up some space. It is also easier to do than it might seem. You can hang a bike from your garage's ceiling with either ceiling hooks or a more elaborate rope and pulley system made specifically for bikes. Whichever method you choose, you'll be able to have your bikes hanging up in no time! [Edit]Hanging with Ceiling Hooks - Locate a ceiling joist. Standing on a ladder or other stable, raised surface, knock on your garage's ceiling to find a ceiling joist. If you knock and hear a hollow sound, there is no joist there. If you hear a solid sound, however, you've found a joist. You can also use a stud finder to find a ceiling joist.[1]
- If you're unsure whether you've found a ceiling joist, you can nail a small nail into what you think is a joist. If the nail encounters a lot of resistance, you've found a joist.
- Always use caution when standing on something.
- Drill a small pilot hole where you want the first hook. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller than the threads on the screw hooks. You should drill the pilot hole where you want one of the wheel centers to be.[2]
- Use a cordless electric drill fitted with a drill bit to drill the pilot hole.
- Always be careful to use a drill safely.
- When drilling into the ceiling, wear safety glasses to prevent debris from falling into your eyes.
- Measure the distance between the two wheels' centers. Once you've drilled your first pilot hole, use a tape measure to measure the distance from one wheel center to the other. Be sure to be as precise as possible.[3]
- Measure more than once to make sure you have an accurate measurement.
- Drill the second pilot hole in the same ceiling joist. Now that you've measured the distance between the wheel centers, drill your second pilot hole that same distance from the first pilot hole in the same ceiling joist. In other words, the distance from the second pilot hole to the first should be the same as the distance from the center of the back wheel of your bike to the center of its front wheel.[4]
- For an adult bike, the length should be somewhere in the range of .
- Screw heavy duty, vinyl-coated J-shaped hooks into the pilot holes. Once you've drilled both of your pilot holes into the ceiling joist, screw in the heavy duty, vinyl (or rubber) coated hooks. Use a wrench to make sure the hooks are securely twisted into the joist.[5]
- These heavy-duty hooks are available at most home improvement stores.
- Purchasing hooks with plastic coating is important because the coating will prevent the hook from scratching your bicycle.
[Edit]Using a Rope and Pulley System - Locate a joist in your ceiling. Begin by knocking on your garage ceiling around where you'd like to hang your bike. Move your fist side to side as you knock. If you hear a hollow sound, there is no joist there. A solid sound, however, indicates that you've found a joist.[6]
- If you are going to be standing on a ladder for this step, ask a family member or friend to hold it steady for you.
- You can also use a stud finder to find a joist in the ceiling.
- Use an impact driver to screw the first pulley bracket into the ceiling. Once you've found a joist, use a cordless drill to drill a pilot hole in the middle of the joist. Drill the hole where you want to put one end of one of your pulley brackets. Then screw the first pulley bracket into the ceiling.[7]
- Use the screws and any other materials that come with the rope and pulley system.
- You can find a bicycle-specific rope and pulley system at most home improvement stores and bicycle shops.
- The pulley bracket should run parallel to the joist.
- Measure the distance between your bike's seat and handlebars. Once you've screwed your first pulley bracket into the ceiling, use a tape measure to measure the length from the back of your bike's seat to the front of the handlebars.[8]
- It is a good idea to measure more than once, just to make sure you have an accurate measurement.
- Position the second pulley bracket on the same ceiling joist. Make sure the distance from the middle of the first bracket to the middle of the second bracket is the same as the distance from the back of your bike's seat to the handlebars. Once the second bracket is in position, drill pilot holes where the screws will go.[9]
- The two pulley brackets should run parallel to the ceiling joist to which they're attached and together should form a straight line.
- Thread the rope through the hole in the second bracket. Before screwing your second bracket into the ceiling, thread the rope through the proper hole in the bracket. Every rope and pulley system is slightly different, so follow the manufacturer's directions that were included with your specific rope and pulley system.[10]
- When tying a knot in the rope, a standard figure-eight knot will work fine.
- Mount the second pulley bracket onto the ceiling joist. Use an impact driver to screw the second bracket into the ceiling in the same way you screwed in the first bracket. Pull on the bracket to make sure it is secure.[11]
- Thread the rope through the pulleys. Now that your two pulley brackets are fastened to the ceiling, it is time to thread the rope through the pulley brackets and hooks that will hoist up your bike. Every pulley system is different, so closely follow the manufacturer's directions included with the specific model you're using.[12]
- Screw a cleat into a nearby wall stud, so you'll have a place to tie up the loose end of the rope and keep it out of your way.
- Be careful not to tangle up the rope. Any knots in the rope will interfere with the pulley system.
- Raise your bike to the ceiling with the rope and pulley system. Put one of the hooks under the seat and the other under the handlebars. Then, pull on the rope to raise the bike up to the pulley brackets. Once the bike is up, let go of the rope slowly, and tie it up on a cleat on a nearby wall.[13]
- An anti-slip mechanism on the pulley bracket will prevent the bike from falling when you let go of the rope.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Cordless drill
- Cordless impact driver
- Ladder
- Tape measure
- Rope and pulley system for a bike (for Method 1)
- Heavy-duty, plastic coated hooks (for Method 2)
[Edit]References |
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