| How to Put up Shelves Posted: 10 Nov 2019 12:00 AM PST Mounted shelves free up space by allowing you to store and display items along the walls of your home. They can also make a lovely addition to the room's décor in their own right. Since shelves are intended to bear weight, it's crucial that they be installed correctly. By taking the time to locate the your wall's studs and fastening your shelves securely to supportive brackets, you can ensure that they hold up to years of use. [Edit]Finding Your Wall Studs - Pick out an open spot along the wall to situate your shelves. The exact position of your shelves is mostly a matter of preference. However, there are a couple important factors you'll want to consider when choosing a mounting site, such as proximity to the nearest wall studs and the size of your shelves in relation to nearby objects.[1]
- If the shelves you've picked out are especially deep, for example, it may not be a good idea to mount them near doors or high-traffic areas where someone might bump into them.
- A good rule of thumb is to mount display shelves at around eye level (, in the majority of cases) to enable easy access and make them a focal point of the room.[2]
- If you're going to be stacking multiple shelves, it's best to do it in an area where you have enough room to space them about apart.
- Use a stud finder to locate the 2 wall studs closest to your chosen spot. Turn on your stud finder and hold it flat against the wall about to the left of where you want to put your shelves. Once it's in position, press the button on the thumb side to activate it and begin slowly sliding the tool to the right. When it flashes or beeps, it means it's detected a stud underneath.[3]
- You can get a basic stud finder at your local hardware store or home improvement center for around $30. More advanced models with multiple modes and precision features may run you closer to $60-70.[4]
- The term "stud" refers to one of the vertical boards that comprises the inner structure of the wall. It's important to locate your wall's studs anytime you're putting up shelves, as drywall isn't meant to support much weight and in time may collapse under strain.
- Perform a tap test to find your studs if you don't have a stud finder. In most homes, wall studs are spaced apart. One thing you can do to track down a stud without tools is simply measure this distance outward from an adjacent doorframe, then tap along the wall in a radius with your knuckle until you hear a difference.[5]
- A stud will make a dull thud when struck, unlike the hollow drywall, which tends to produce a louder, deeper sound.
- Light switches and electrical outlets are almost always mounted to a wall stud. If you're not having any luck finding a stud, try measuring from a nearby switch or outlet, then tap the surrounding area until you get a hit.
- Mark the location of the studs with a pencil. Once you've successfully pinpointed your stud or studs, put a small dot or "X" at each site. The marks you make will serve as a visual guide for when you begin drilling. They'll also function as a helpful reminder so you won't have to hunt for the studs again if you happen to lose track of them.[6]
- Only make your stud marks in pencil, and avoid bearing down so hard that you have trouble erasing them later.
- If you don't want to draw directly on the wall, press a strip of painter's tape to the wall and mark the tape instead.[7]
[Edit]Positioning Your Shelves - Hold up one of your shelves' mounting brackets at the desired height. Eyeball the placement of the bracket to see how it looks and adjust it by moving it higher or lower if necessary. Again, where you put your shelves is largely up to you, so long as you stay between the studs.[8]
- The brackets are the supportive frame pieces that actually attach to the wall. Once they're mounted, they'll cradle the shelves from underneath, bracing against the wall studs at an angle.
- Most shelf brackets are mounted somewhere between chest and eye level, but you could also hang your shelves higher or lower depending on the specific use you have in mind for them.
- Mark the position of your bracket's screw holes on the wall. Make sure the screw holes are in line with the studs. When you're satisfied with the placement of your first bracket, insert the tip of your pencil into the screw hole on the backside and scribble a dot on the wall. You'll be using this mark as a reference point for drilling your first pilot hole, and to line up your second hole.[9]
- If your shelf brackets have more than one screw hole, go ahead and mark them as well for greater precision.[10]
- For stacked shelves, mark all of your pilot hole locations vertically along the same stud at one time, making sure they're spaced consistently.
- Draw a line from your first pilot hole mark to the opposite stud. Hold a carpenter's level out horizontally beside your first pencil mark, taking a moment to make sure it's centered correctly. Run your pencil along the top of the level until you reach the mark you made to indicate the position of your second stud. This line will correspond to the top of the shelf.[11]
- Stop and reset the level when you run out of room. Remember to check its orientation to ensure that your line is straight and uniform.
- Repeat this step at a different height for each set of shelves you plan on installing.
- Make a second mark where the other pilot hole will go. You've now clearly marked where you need to drill each pilot hole for your shelf bracket and connected the 2 points with a straight line that will help you make sure your shelves are level. At this point, you're ready to begin drilling.
[Edit]Installing the Shelves - Drill the pilot holes for the bracket screws. Center the tip of each screw with its corresponding pilot hole mark. Use a power drill or screwdriver to drive the screws into the underlying wall stud to a depth of about . Then, remove the screws from the wall carefully.[12]
- Use the screws that came packaged with your shelf brackets. If your brackets didn't include their own fasteners, wood screws will be a good fit for most average-sized shelves.[13]
- Boring pilot holes is easier, neater, and more precise than trying to screw directly into the bracket holes in one shot.
- Fasten the brackets to the wall using the pilot holes you just drilled. Align the screw holes of each bracket with your pilot holes and reinsert the screws. Tighten the screws with your drill or screwdriver until they're seated snugly in the wall. Be sure to double-check that your brackets are straight and even before you cinch them down.[14]
- Avoid overtightening your screws. Doing so could damage the surrounding surface and weaken their connection as a result.
- Hold off on putting up your shelves until you have all of your brackets in place. If any of the brackets are misaligned, it will be much easier to fix them if you haven't already installed the shelves.
- Put your shelves in place on top of the brackets. Depending on the style of your shelves, you may be able to simply rest them on top of the brackets and call it a day. If your shelves are designed to be anchored to the brackets, insert screws in the appropriate slots and fasten them down. Most of time, these slots will be located along the tops of brackets where the shelves sit.[15]
- Use your level to make sure your shelves are even. If they're off level by more than a small amount, it may be necessary to drill a new pilot hole for one of your brackets.
- As long as the brackets are seated securely in the wall studs and you're using anchors of an appropriate strength rating, your shelves should have no problem supporting the amount of weight indicated in the product specifications.[16]
- Erase any visible pencil marks left on the wall. Inspect the area around your newly-mounted shelves for traces of the markings you made while searching for your wall studs and positioning your shelf brackets. If you find any, rub them out gently with the eraser end of your pencil. Afterwards, congratulate yourself on a job well done![17]
- If you opted to put up painter's tape to protect your wall, simply peel it off and throw it in the trash.
- The only time you won't need to bother with locating studs is when the shelves you want to hang are especially small or lightweight. In this case, it's possible to mount them directly to any part of the wall using drywall anchors.[18]
- It's possible to mount shelves in brick, concrete, stone, and stucco, too—just fit your drill with a masonry bit and be sure to hold it at a 90-degree angle to the wall.
[Edit]Warnings - Avoid putting more weight on your shelves than is recommended for the size, material, and type of mounting hardware you're working with.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Finding Your Wall Studs - Stud finder
- Pencil
- Measuring tape (optional)
- Painter's tape (optional)
[Edit]Positioning Your Shelves - Shelf brackets
- Carpenter's level
- Pencil
- Measuring tape (optional)
[Edit]Installing the Shelves - Power drill
- Shelf brackets
- Screws
- Carpenter's level
- Eraser
- Screwdriver (optional)
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Deal with Autumn Leaves Posted: 09 Nov 2019 04:00 PM PST In many areas, autumn is the time of year when trees and other vegetation shed leaves. While the leaves will eventually decompose if left on the ground, you may want to speed up the process by breaking them down. Or, you may decide to collect the leaves and either recycle or dispose of them. However you decide to deal with your autumn leaves, you can make fall cleanup easier with a plan! [Edit]Planning Ahead - Add landscaping near deciduous trees. Make beds with plants that like natural mulch near the trees in your yard that shed leaves. When there are leaves on the ground, run them over once with a mower. Then rake them right into the beds.[1]
- For your bed, consider shrubs, garlic, roses, and tender perennials.[2]
- Decide if you need to collect the leaves. Several inches of leaf layer is natural and even an ecosystem. Wildlife like salamanders, turtles, chipmunks, and other species survive on such mini habitats.[3] Leaf litter also provides an overwintering shelter for beneficial insects and earthworms. However, if thick piles of leaves are smothering your lawn, you may want to break them down, if not collect them.[4]
- Consider collecting the leaves if they cover over a third of your yard and you can't see the top of the grass blades.[5]
- You may need to collect the leaves if you have a Home Owners Association that has specific requirements about autumn cleanup.
- If you decide to collect them, don't try to do a whole season of leaf pickup in a single day. Plan leaf cleanup for several days in the autumn season.[6]
- Rake pine needles first. You may want to separate pine shedding from deciduous leaves. Pine needles are acidic, and there are certain plants that like acidic soil – and others that don't. Therefore it's beneficial to separate the pine needles to use as their own separate mulch.[7]
- Rake the needles as soon as you notice them on the ground, since they usually fall before leaves do.
- Pack the pine needles in garbage bags and store them in a dry place. Use them when you need acidic mulch.
- Decide if you want to rake wet or dry leaves. Wet leaves will form a more stable pile, but they are also heavier to rake.[8] Choose dry weather if you want to use a leaf vacuum, as wet leaves can clog the vacuum.[9] Don't rake wet leaves if you have allergies, as mold and mildew in wet leaves can upset your sinuses.
- Pick up sticks. You can choose to do this before or during leaf cleanup. Gather up the sticks in your yard and put them aside in a pile. Consider keeping the brush pile there as a shelter for birds, chipmunks and other wildlife. You can also set sticks aside for use as fire kindling.[10]
- Use a wheelbarrow or yard waste bin if you want to move the stick pile somewhere else in your yard.
[Edit]Collecting the Leaves - Rake the leaves. Raking is ideal for small lawns and gardens.[11] Use quality rakes, preferably with soft grips. Rakes 36" or wider require more force, so choose a rake that is of standard width (24"). You can opt for ergonomic rakes, which have specially curved handles.[12] Don't retrace your steps. Work from one side of the lawn to the other in a zigzag.[13]
- With each line you rake, move the leaves into the area where there are leaves you haven't raked yet. Every time you create a ridge of leaves, push it a few feet into the unraked area. Repeat this until your pile is two feet tall (0.6096 meters) or is getting hard to move.
- You can purchase ergonomic handles separately and attach them to your rakes. Attach handles by screwing them into your rakes. By doing this with two rakes, you can rake leaves with both arms and without bending over.[14]
- Move the leaves with a tarp or bag. Use a sheet, a tarp, or a tablecloth to move large piles of leaves. Put the four corners of the tarp together and move the bundle by dragging it. You can use this method in addition to or instead of using leaf bags.[15]
- Eight feet by eight feet (2.44 meters) is a good-sized tarp for this purpose.
- You can purchase fun, seasonal leaf bags like large bags with jack-o-lantern faces to decorate your yard and move leaves out of the way at the same time!
- Mow your lawn and the leaves. This is a good option for large lawns. Use a grass catcher on the mower to collect the chopped leaves.[16] Raise your mower deck to the second-highest setting before mowing your lawn.[17]
- If the leaves are wet, use the side-discharging mode of your mower for the first pass in order to loosen and lift the leaves. Then switch to either mulching or bagging mode and mow over the leaves again.
- Use a leaf blower and/or vacuum. Consider using a leaf blower, especially if you have a big yard with many trees.[18] Leaf blowing is particularly useful if you have woods up against your property, as you can blow the leaves back onto the forest floor.[19] You can use a vacuum attachment for your leaf blower or use a leaf vacuum by itself. Handheld leaf vacuums are handy for small yards or areas.[20]
- If you're purchasing a leaf blower or vacuum, look for one that has a shredding function. Consider the ratio of reduction; for example, if the product offers a 10:1 reduction ratio, it will convert ten bags of unchopped leaves into one bag.
- Keep in mind that leaf blowers are loud. Also, the most effective ones are gas-powered, which use fossil fuels that contribute to air pollution.[21]
- Hire professionals. If you decide to hire a professional to do your leaf cleanup, you can expect to pay for each job, several times per season.[22] If you don't have the time to do the leaf cleanup, this may be the option for you. Alternatively, you can rent a wheeled leaf blower like the pros use for about $50 a day.[23]
- Most homeowners pay between $174 and $491, but it will depend on the size of your lawn. You can expect to pay anywhere between $75 and $900.[24]
- Try contacting a professional and have your yard measurements ready as well as how many trees are in your yard. Ask if they can give you quote for leaf cleanup.
[Edit]Disposing of Leaves - Mulch them into the lawn. Optionally, you can aerate your lawn first to provide nutrients deeper into the soil.[25] Mulch the leaves into small pieces with your mower, about dime-sized. You may have to mow over them a few times if the leaves are large or the layer is deep.[26] When you cleanup a yard like this, you will leave the small pieces on the lawn to work their way into the soil. Leaf mulch suppresses weeds and fertilizes the ground. Mulched leaves will enrich your soil in the spring.[27]
- You should be able to see about half of the grass through the chopped leaves if you want them to decompose quickly.
- Make mulch for gardens or flower beds. One you have collected the leaves, you can shred them for use in compost or mulch. Put the leaves into a large trash can. Then break them down with a weed whacker.[28] You could use a leaf shredder instead.[29]
- Leaves make great natural mulch. They don't transfer black spores onto houses and buildings the way wood mulch does, which can damage siding and harm plants.[30]
- Compost them. Turn your leaves into "black gold!" Compost is excellent natural fertilizer for your lawn and garden. You may want to break the leaves down into mulch before putting them into the compost pile if you want them to decompose faster. You can use the decomposed leaves to fertilize your garden in the spring.[31]
- You can leave your leaf pile to weather and add it to your compost pile in the springtime.[32]
- Dig them in with a tiller. Shred the leaves first. Then you can till the chopped leaves into the soil with a tiller. This will provide organic matter and nutrients to feed your lawn in the spring.[33]
- Ask your locality. Contact your local township, city or county and ask about an autumn cleanup policy. If they don't have one, find out how to dispose of leaves and other backyard waste. Some county and city officials have specific regulations for you to follow when you cleanup a yard.[34]
- Try asking, "Do you have a community recycling program for autumn leaves? Is there a municipal composting system with curbside pickup?" If there is no municipal program in place for autumn cleanup, ask how to dispose of general yard waste.
- In some towns you simply bag your leaves and put the bags at the curb so a designated party can pick them up on a specific day of the week. Other areas rake leaves into the street gutter and leaf collectors drive down each side of the road to collect them.
- Offer them to a neighbor. Your trees should seem healthy with no known fungal or other diseases. Bag your leaves and offer them to neighbors who may want mulch or compost. This can be especially helpful for neighbors with gardens or flower beds.[35]
- Burn the leaves. You may choose to burn the leaves if you live in an area that permits this. You may need a fire permit to dispose of leaves in this way. Some states and towns require a member of the fire department to be present for the duration of the fire, while others require you to notify the fire department in advance.
- Check with your locality by contacting them or searching their website for keywords like "burning" and "fire."
- Make crafts. You can use fall leaves as fun craft projects. There are various ways you can preserve leaves. You can then use them to make bookmarks, coasters, wall art, candle holders, and many other crafts for kids or adults.[36]
- Choose a calm day to dispose of leaves, so that wind doesn't blow them all over the yard.
- If you have kids in your household, consider enlisting their help with raking…and jumping in the leaf piles!
[Edit]Warnings - If you do not clean up your yard in autumn, you may need to do additional work in the spring.
- If you plan to burn leaves when you cleanup a yard, make sure you have a metal screen and an enclosed bin or other fire safety equipment. Failing to contain the fire may allow burning debris to blow into wooded areas, yards or other flammable places.
- Don't throw your leaves in the trash. They will be buried underground in a landfill where they'll take a long time to decompose and won't do anyone much good.[37]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Clean a Birkenstock Footbed Posted: 09 Nov 2019 08:00 AM PST Birkenstocks are a trendy yet classic sandal. While they are durable shoes with a strong sole, the footbeds are notorious for their tendency to get dirty and smelly, with well-worn pairs often sporting a grimy imprint of the wearer's sole. It is easy to avoid stains in your Birkenstock footbeds, and there are a number of steps you can take to remove dirt, grime, and smell to get your sandals back in shape. - Combine baking soda and water into a smooth paste. Mixing 2 tablespoons of water with 1 tablespoon of baking soda will create a smooth paste. To remove heavy stains, spread the mixture onto the footbed, then gently scrub it using a soft brush.[1]
- An old toothbrush works great as a soft and gentle alternative to a true suede brush.
- Let the cleaning solution work overnight. For tough, persistent stains, it may be helpful to allow a small amount of the baking soda and water paste to sit in the footbed overnight. When you wake up, rinse the footbed out and wipe it down fully with a soft cloth before allowing it to dry. [2]
- Dry the Birkenstocks in a cool place. It is important to keep them away from direct sunlight at all times, keeping in mind that high heat can cause damage the cork sole, footbed, and straps. Let the shoes dry for 24 hours after cleaning to avoid the possibility of dry rot or cracking.[3]
- Sprinkle baking soda to remove smell. If there is a lingering odor coming from your Birkenstocks, sprinkle a small amount of baking soda on the footbed and allow it to sit for several hours or overnight. [4]
- Finish by wiping excess baking soda away with a soft cloth.
- The absorbent powder draws bad smells out of the sole, as well as any remaining dirt and grime.
[Edit]Using Soap to Clean Small Stains - Combine a mild soap with water. If there are just a handful of small stains on the footbed, they can be removed using the soap and water combination[5]
- A good choice for mild soap would be dish soap, which is gentle enough to be used on food surfaces.
- Brush the footbed gently. Use a soft brush or cloth to remove the stains. Reapply the soap and water anywhere that there are stains and carefully wash them away. If stains remain, they may be too tough for soap.[6]
- Dry the Birkenstocks in a cool place. You will be able to dry them overnight so long as the footbeds do not appear to be soaked. It is important to avoid letting any water remain in the footbed overnight.[7]
- Brush the footbed out regularly. By using a soft brush or a slightly damp cloth to remove debris, you can avoid dirty footbeds. Doing this once every few weeks will keep the footbed from getting grimy sole imprints and scuff marks.[8]
- Dirt and grass are especially likely to stain and discolor the footbed.
- Remove mud promptly. If an unexpected downpour leads to mud in the footbeds, be sure to wipe them down with a dampened cloth before putting them away for the night. Letting them dry overnight is enough for simple cleanings. [9]
- Store the sandals in a cool, dry place. Keeping Birkenstocks out of extreme heat and direct sunlight will not only protect the shoes from falling apart, it will help prevent the growth of bacteria which cause them to smell.[10]
[Edit]References |
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