| How to Make a Picnic Blanket Posted: 26 Feb 2020 12:00 AM PST A homemade picnic blanket makes for a great gift or a fun, simple sewing project. While you do need to know how to sew to make one, it's not a particularly difficult project to complete compared to many other items. To make a picnic blanket, select a thick, durable fabric for your blanket and purchase at least 2 sheets of the fabric. Get a layer of flexible vinyl if you want to waterproof the underside of your blanket. Then, set your fabric with the pattern facing down. Add any padding or cotton batting on top if you want a fluffier blanket. Lay the second layer of fabric on top and sew the edges to secure them. You can also add straps if you want to store your blanket using strips of nylon and special fabric Velcro strips. [Edit]Designing Your Blanket and Buying Fabric - Make an blanket for a traditional size. You can make your blanket however big you'd like. Typically, picnic blankets are roughly in length and in width. Sketch the dimensions of your blanket out and write the size down so you can reference the size when you go to purchase your fabric.[1]
- If you want to visualize how big a blanket will end up being, lay down 2 measuring tapes on the ground based on your planned length and width.
- You can make a square-shaped blanket if you prefer, but most people prefer blankets with a short side to make the blanket easier to roll up and store.
- Select a durable fabric with a beautiful pattern for your blanket. You can use any kind of fabric to make a picnic blanket, but comfortable water-resistant textiles like polyester fleece, microfiber, and wool will work best. Choose a pattern that looks interesting you. You can choose any color that you'd like, but bright summer colors like red, green, purple, or orange will work well.[2]
- Soft denim is another popular fabric for DIY blankets.
- If you want a reversible blanket with a different pattern on both sides, get 2 different patterns or colors.
- You can get a quilted picnic blanket pattern if you'd like to give your blanket a traditional look. If you're feeling ambitious, you can get a variety of fabrics and sew the quilt together yourself. This is much more difficult and time-consuming, though.
- Purchase at least twice as much fabric as you need based on your dimensions. If you want your picnic blanket to be , get at least enough fabric for a blanket that is . This way, you'll be able to fold the fabric in half to increase the thickness of your blanket. It will also give you some extra fabric to work with in the event that you accidentally tear some of it. Buy your fabric online or at a local craft shop.[3]
- If you want to fill the blanket with padding or if you're using a thick material, like denim, you can purchase less fabric. It's still good to have some extra fabric though.
- If you're going to use padding, purchase cotton batting or upholstery foam.
- Get a sheet of vinyl fabric if you want to waterproof your blanket. A vinyl picnic blanket typically refers to a blanket with a vinyl cover on the bottom. This vinyl sheet will protect the fabric and keep moisture out. Purchase a sheet of soft vinyl big enough to cover your blanket on one side.[4]
- Vinyl isn't a particularly comfortable material to sit or lay on, so don't use a vinyl back if you want your blanket to be reversible.
[Edit]Cutting and Sewing the Fabric - Mark your dimensions on the fabric using fabric chalk. Set your fabric out face-down on a large, flat surface. Use heavy objects or clamps to keep the fabric taut. Use a measuring tape to measure the length of each side of your blanket. To mark each cut, set a yardstick or some other straight edge out on your fabric. Use the edge to draw your length and width out using fabric chalk.[5]
- You can use a fabric marker instead of the chalk if you prefer, but the chalk is much easier to erase.
- Repeat this process for the second layer of fabric that you're using. You will sew the 2 pieces of fabric together after cutting them out.
- If your fabric is thinner and you're going to fold it over, double the dimensions of your blanket. This is a good idea if you're using a thin fabric, like polyester.
- If you're installing a vinyl cover on one side of the blanket to keep water out, spread the vinyl sheet out first. After you cut your fabric, trace the shape of the blanket on the vinyl and cut it separately.
- Cut the fabric using sewing scissors or a rotary cutter. If you have a steady hand, feel free to cut your fabric out with sewing scissors. Alternatively, set a cutting mat out underneath the fabric and use a rotary cutter to carve clean lines. Cut carefully along each of the lines that you've marked to cut your fabric out.[6]
- Work slowly to ensure that you don't accidentally deviate from the marks that you've made. If you cut into the fabric of your blanket, you'll need to repeat this process.
- Cut the vinyl separately if you're using a waterproof cover on one of the blanket's sides. Depending on the thickness of the vinyl, you may be able to cut it with standard scissors. Otherwise, use a rotary cutter.
- Spread a layer of padding or cotton batting out if you're filling the blanket. If you're filling your blanket with some kind of padding, set your material out in the middle of your fabric. Spread it out by hand or unroll the padding until you're happy with the thickness of the material. You can add as many layers of padding as you'd like. Distribute the padding evenly so that it is flush with the edges of your first layer of fabric.[7]
- Filling the blanket with padding is entirely optional. You can fill it if you want the blanket to be fluffy and soft, but many people prefer thinner picnic blankets.
- If you cut out fabric that is twice as big as the dimensions of the blanket, grip a corner of the fabric. Fold it over to the corner of the opposite side to make it thicker before adding any padding.
- Set your 2 layers of fabric on top of one another. Take your second piece of fabric and set it on top of the first sheet with the pattern facing up. Line the corners up and pull the fabric taut before clamping it in place. Alternatively, you can set heavy objects near the corners after matching them up and setting them down.[8]
- Pin the fabric in place to keep the layers from sliding around. Once your corners are lined up, use sewing pins to secure the fabric in place so that it doesn't spread around while you sew it. Go around the edges of your fabric and insert 1 pin every . Place your pins from the exterior edge of each side. Push the pin through one side of the fabric and run it through the opposite side. Repeat this process until you've lined every side of your blanket.[9]
- You can fold each edge over itself before pinning the layers in place if you'd like a cleaner edge. If you do this, iron the edges in place before pinning it.[10]
- Stitch the edges of your blanket with a strong thread to secure it. Run a strong thread through your sewing machine and set a corner of your blanket under the machine. Plug the machine in and set the speed on your machine to its lowest setting. Press the foot pedal or use the automatic setting to stitch the blanket. Move the fabric as you sew by pulling it towards you slowly. Repeat this process on each side to finish sewing the edges.[11]
- A running stitch is the easiest pattern to use here, but you can use a zigzag stitch if you prefer.
- Do this away from your pins to avoid stitching them into your blanket or damaging your machine.
- You can do this by hand if you'd like. If you do, run your thread through each side of the blanket to stitch a zigzag into each of the edges.
- Sew additional seams through the middle of your blanket if you filled the blanket with padding. Place 1 seam every running lengthwise and widthwise through your blanket. This will keep the padding from shifting around.
- Remove the pins when you're done sewing the blanket.
- Sew bias tape around the edges of your blanket to secure the stitching. Purchase a spool of bias tape from your local fabric or craft store. Spread the tape out and open the fold in the middle. Place the end of your tape along a corner of your blanket so that the crease meets the seam of the fabric. Fold it around the seam and pin it place. Sew along the edge of each length of tape to secure it to the blanket.[12]
- Run your pins away from the edge of your bias tape where it meets the main fabric of the blanket. Place 1 pin every to keep the tape from sliding around.
- Bias tape is a sewing material that is used for securing stitches and keep edges safe. It looks like a thin roll of fabric that is folded in half lengthwise.
- You can skip the bias tape and simply trim any frayed edges with sewing scissors if you prefer.
[Edit]Adding Storage Straps - Get Velcro strips and some strong nylon straps. If you want to make a roll-up picnic blanket, purchase 2 heavy-duty Velcro strips with adhesive backing. Nylon is the best choice for your straps but you can use another strong fabric if you prefer. Purchase strips in a pattern and color that will work well with your blanket.[13]
- Make sure that the Velcro strips are designed to stick on fabric by reading the label carefully before purchasing them.
- If you can't find Velcro strips that will work with fabric, you can sew standard Velcro strips into the blanket instead.
- Get straps that are long so that they can wrap all the way around your blanket when you roll it up.
- You do not have to add straps if you don't want to. They'll make it easy to store and carry your blanket, though.
- Roll your blanket up and stick the Velcro backs onto it. To determine where you want to place your strips, roll your blanket up so that the backside of the blanket is facing out. Then, select 2 locations for your strips. Place the 2 strips out from the top of the roll on the shorter side of the blanket and in from the exterior edges. Peel the adhesive backing off and carefully press the back into your fabric or iron them into place.[14]
- You do not need to fold the blanket up before rolling it up. However, if you plan on folding and storing your blanket a particular way, feel free to adjust this process by folding the blanket before rolling it.
- Adhere the Velcro to the end of each nylon strap. Take your first nylon strap and stick the other end of the Velcro strip at the end of the strap. Repeat this process on the other nylon strap. If you sewed the straps to your blanket, sew them to the straps instead to ensure that the tension on each piece of fabric is roughly the same.[15]
- Roll the blanket up and determine where to place your straps. Roll the blanket up tight and hold it in place. Then, use the Velcro strips to attach each strap to your blanket. Next, wrap the straps around your blanket to find out where you need to attach them to keep the blanket tight when you roll it up. Place a hash mark with fabric chalk where you want to put your straps.[16]
- If you want to make things simple, you can cut the straps at the point where they wrap around the blanket and meet your Velcro after 1 rotation. This way, you can sew the strap directly under the Velcro strip on your blanket.
- Pin and sew the straps into the blanket. Place your strap against the blanket where you made the hash mark and pin the strap in place. Then, use your sewing machine to stitch the nylon strap into your blanket. This way, when you roll the blanket up you can simply push the Velcro strips together to keep it from coming unraveled. Repeat this process with the other strap.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Fabric
- Cotton batting (optional)
- Fabric chalk
- Clamps or heavy objects (optional)
- Vinyl (optional)
- Rotary cutter or sewing scissors
- Thread
- Bias tape
- Sewing machine
- Needle (optional)
- Sewing pins
- Nylon straps (optional)
- Velcro strips (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Clean Headlights with Toothpaste Posted: 25 Feb 2020 04:00 PM PST You might not know it, but toothpaste is good for cleaning other things besides teeth. In fact, if your vehicle's headlights are starting to look a little foggy, one of the simplest solutions is to polish the plastic outer covers using a dab of ordinary toothpaste and a soft cloth or brush. In just a few minutes, the gentle abrasives in the toothpaste will help remove dust, dirt, grime, and light-dimming oxidation, making your headlights shine brighter and clearer. [Edit]Washing and Taping off Your Headlights - Wash the headlights thoroughly with glass cleaner or soapy water. Spray your cleaner of choice liberally onto both headlights. Then, use a microfiber cloth or soft automobile sponge to wipe away as much dust, dirt, and stuck-on debris as possible.[1]
- Giving your headlights a quick preliminary wipedown will get rid of the worst of the mess, allowing the toothpaste to work more effectively on what's left.
- Dry the headlights using an absorbent towel or chamois. Once your headlights are clean, dab them with your towel or chamois to soak up any standing streaks or droplets of moisture. Be sure to dry off the edges of the covers, as well.[2]
- If you're using a towel, make sure it's of the lint-free variety. Otherwise, you could end up leaving behind small fibers, which can easily become stuck on the headlight covers.
- Alternatively, you can apply the toothpaste while the headlights are still wet to produce a bubbly lather similar to soap.[3]
- Tape off the area around your headlights. Stick strips of automotive masking tape or painter's tape over the paint at the top, bottom, and sides of both lights. Afterwards, inspect your work closely to make sure that there's no exposed paint visible near the portion of the lights you'll be cleaning.[4]
- The gritty toothpaste, combined with the pressure of polishing, could potentially damage any paint that's not covered with tape.
[Edit]Polishing Your Headlights - Apply a dime-sized blob of toothpaste to each headlight. Squeeze the toothpaste directly onto the center of the plastic covers, or apply it to the cloth or sponge you'll be using to do your polishing. Spread the toothpaste outwards in widening circles until it covers the entire surface of the headlights.[5]
- Try not to smear the toothpaste on too thick—it's best to start with a small amount and add more later as needed.
- It's important to use an ordinary type of toothpaste rather than a gel. Gel toothpastes don't contain abrasives, which are what is actually responsible for chipping away at the dingy layer of oxidation making the lights appear foggy.[6]
- Polish the headlights vigorously using a microfiber cloth or sponge. Scrub every inch of the covers from top to bottom, moving your cloth or sponge in tight, circular motions to wear down stubborn buildup. You should notice even the heaviest gunk and grime begin to disappear within seconds.[7]
- If your headlights don't look any cleaner after your first few passes, switch to a soft-bristled brush to increase your coverage and really work the toothpaste into the plastic. An old toothbrush is perfectly suited for the task (who would've thought?).[8]
- Getting your headlights looking like-new may require a little bit of elbow grease. Take your time, and don't be afraid to really dig in.
- Rinse both headlights with warm water. Spray the lights with a hose or spray bottle, or douse them with water from a bucket or similar container if you don't have either of the aforementioned tools. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear to ensure that you've flushed away every last trace of toothpaste.[9]
- Don't forget to remove the tape from around your headlights when you're finished.
- Any toothpaste you miss will dry to a cloudy film, leaving you right back where you started.
[Edit]Applying a Sealant - Apply a coat of UV-resistant sealant to shield your headlights from the sun. Wet a folded paper towel with the sealant solution and wipe it onto both headlight covers. Use long, sweeping strokes and aim for full coverage. Unless otherwise specified, apply only a single coat of sealant.[10]
- You can pick up a bottle of UV-resistant headlight sealant for just a few dollars at any automotive supply store, as well as most supercenters, gas stations, and convenience stores.[11]
- A good UV sealant will slow the formation of oxidation on your headlight covers as a result of exposure to the sun's rays.
- Allow the sealant to cure in the sun for 10-45 minutes. Park your vehicle someplace outdoors where it can receive direct or partial sunlight. Most headlight sealants dry to the touch in a few minutes and cure to full strength within about half an hour. Exact cure times can vary somewhat, however, depending on humidity levels and the amount of sunlight available.[12]
- If you happen to have a UV lamp, you can speed up the process by shining it directly on your headlights for 10-15 minutes, or until they're completely dry.[13]
- Hold off on washing your vehicle for at least 8 hours after applying headlight sealant.
- Repeat the process every 2-4 months, or as needed. Using toothpaste to polish your car's headlights is a great way to restore their original shine, but it's not a permanent fix. In order to ensure that they stay bright and clear and provide maximum visibility, you'll want to get in the habit of cleaning and sealing them every couple of months.
- You may need to up the frequency of your cleanings if you do a lot of driving.
- If you don't like the idea of cleaning your headlights with toothpaste, it may be worth it to spend a little more on a commercial headlight restoration kit. These come with re-finishing polishes and pads that work in much the same way, but are formulated specially for use on automobiles.
[Edit]Warnings - Steer clear of toothpastes containing flavor crystals, deep-cleaning beads, or other add-ins. Oversized abrasives can scratch the plastic surface of your headlight covers, causing them to show dirt more plainly and making them harder to clean in the future.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Glass cleaner or soapy water
- Microfiber cloth or soft automobile sponge
- Lint-free towel or chamois
- Automotive masking tape or painter's tape
- Regular non-gel toothpaste
- Garden hose or spray bottle
- Bucket or similar large container (optional)
- Toothbrush or similar soft-bristled brush (optional)
- UV-resistant headlight sealant
- Paper towel
- UV lamp (optional)
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Store Cashmere Posted: 25 Feb 2020 08:00 AM PST While cashmere is beloved for its softness and warmth, it's also notoriously difficult to care for and maintain. Thankfully, there are a few easy steps you can take to ensure your cashmere remains in good condition when storing it away. Whether you're storing cashmere for a few days, months, or even years, you can keep the fabric fresh and intact by cleaning it after your last wear, choosing the right kind of storage container, and putting it away in a clean and sanitized area. [Edit]Cleaning Your Cashmere for Storage - Wash your cashmere before storing it to help keep bugs away. While insects like moths are attracted to cashmere fabric on its own, they'll be even more attracted to your cashmere if it has any residual body oil, products, or perfume on it from wear. Therefore, it's important that you wash the cashmere before storing it to make it somewhat less attractive to fabric-eating insects.[1]
- Make sure your cashmere is completely dry before you put it in storage.
- Remove pilling from your cashmere to keep it in good condition. Using a sweater comb or a small de-pilling razor, gently scrape off any pills that have formed on the cashmere's surface. This will not only leave your cashmere in better shape and ready to wear when you take it out of storage, it will allow the fabric to soften while it's being stored.[2]
- Regardless of how you choose to remove pilling from cashmere, make sure that you work slowly and carefully to avoid ripping or cutting the fabric.
- Steam your cashmere to sanitize it and remove wrinkles. First, put your fabric steamer on the cashmere or low-heat setting. Then, run the steamer over the fabric to both sanitize and de-wrinkle it so it'll be fresh and ready to use when you get it out of storage.[3]
- If you don't have a steamer, you can also use an iron by putting it on the lowest heat setting and placing a damp cloth between the cashmere and the iron as you gently and carefully run it over the fabric.
- If the cashmere feels damp after you steam it, let it dry completely before putting it in storage.
[Edit]Choosing a Storage Container - Keep your cashmere in a chest or closet for short-term storage. If you're storing your cashmere in between wears, keeping it in a wooden chest or folded in a closet will suffice. While a chest or closet alone won't completely keep insects at bay for long periods of time, both of these options usually allow you to fold the cashmere and lay it flat, keeping it from getting crumpled or damaged.[4]
- If you plan to store your cashmere in a chest or closet long term, make sure that you use moth balls or liners to keep moths from eating the fabric.
- Store cashmere in plastic garment bags for up to 3 months. If you're storing cashmere for a short period of time and want to protect it from insects, plastic garment bags are a great option. However, only store cashmere in plastic for up to 3 months because the change in seasonal weather and temperature can cause condensation to form in the bags, which can cause the cashmere to mildew or turn yellow.[5]
- Make sure that plastic garment bags are airtight to keep moths and other insects away from your cashmere.[6]
- You can also use plastic storage containers to store your cashmere as long as it is airtight.
- Put cashmere in cotton canvas garment bags for long-term storage. If you plan on storing your cashmere for more than 3 months, cotton canvas garment bags are likely your best bet. Unlike plastic or wooden containers, cotton bags are both insect and moisture resistant, and will allow the fabric to breath so it won't get musky over time.[7]
- Canvas garment bags that are made out of cotton are available widely online and at many storage and home improvement retailers.
- Avoid storing cashmere in cardboard boxes. While they are cheap and convenient for storage, cardboard boxes do not have a neutral pH. Therefore, the chemicals in the cashmere fabric could react with the acid or alkaline in the cardboard, which can discolor or disintegrate the fabric.[8]
[Edit]Putting Cashmere in Storage - Vacuum and wipe-down the storage area to keep the cashmere clean. When storing cashmere, it's important that you clean the storage area to keep it from attracting insects or damaging the fabric. Therefore, before placing your cashmere in storage, use a vacuum to remove dust, as well as a sanitizing wipe to sanitize the storage area.[9]
- If you wipe it down with a wet cloth or wipe, make sure that the area is completely dry before placing your cashmere inside.
- Line the storage area with anti-moth paper or balls. Unfortunately, moths love to eat holes in cashmere fabric. As a result, it's helpful to line your storage area with anti-moth paper liners before laying the cashmere inside, or placing moth balls on and around the cashmere to keep moths at bay.[10]
- Paper liners can also help protect the fabric from catching and snagging on wood, plastic, or anything else stored in the same container.
- You can also put cedar balls or chips in the storage area to repel these cashmere-eating insects.[11]
- Wrap your cashmere in acid-free tissue to preserve the color. If you want to take an extra precaution to protect your cashmere, you can wrap it in acid-free tissue paper. This will help preserve the color by protecting the fabric from anything acidic or alkaline, while also protecting the cashmere against moisture and dust.[12]
- Acid-free tissue paper is widely available online and at most craft and storage stores.
- Fold your cashmere to minimize wrinkles. First, fold the arms of your cashmere in over top of the front of the sweater. Then fold the bottom up over the arms to meet the top.[13] This will allow the cashmere to lay as flat as possible in the storage container.
- If you need to fold the cashmere smaller, you can fold it in half one more time. Try to fold it as little as possible, however, to avoid wrinkles.
- Lay your cashmere in the storage container. Place the cashmere in storage container, laying it as flat as possible. This will keep the fabric from wrinkling and will help prevent it from getting and snags or tears.[14]
- Never keep cashmere in hanging storage, as hangers can cause the material to stretch and distort.[15]
- Store your cashmere away from sunlight to avoid discoloration. Regardless of what storage container you choose, make sure that your cashmere is stored in a dark, concealed location away from sunlight. Prolonged exposure to sunlight, and even some strong indoor lighting, can cause your cashmere to discolor permanently.[16]
- This is particularly important for bright colors, as they tend to fade quicker and more drastically.
[Edit]References |
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