How to Make a Tree Seat Posted: 18 Mar 2020 01:00 AM PDT A tree seat generally refers to a bench that wraps around a tree. It's an excellent way to give your garden or yard a little personality and can serve as a great place to cool off in the shade during the summertime. To build a bench around a tree, construct a hexagon out of wood boards and add legs and braces to support the structure. Before taking this project on, know that you need some experience working with a miter saw to craft a tree seat. Expect to spend 2-3 days working on your tree bench; while the steps aren't particularly hard for a DIY enthusiast, they are quite time-consuming. [Edit]Creating Your Template - Calculate your tree's diameter and add . Inspect your tree carefully to find the thickest point near the bottom of the trunk. Take a cloth measuring tape and wrap it around your tree. Divide this number by pi (3.14) to get your diameter. Add to that measurement and write it down.[1]
- Round your numbers up to the nearest whole number to make things easier.
- For example, if the circumference of your tree is , divide it by 3.14 to get . Round this number up to and write your base number down as . The extra space will prevent the tree from breaking your bench in the event that it grows at an odd angle.
- If your tree is on the younger side and you expect it to grow over the course of the next 10-20 years, add to the diameter.
- This process will result in a 6-sided bench, which is ideal for wrapping around a tree without leaving a ton of variation in the amount of open space between your bench boards and the trunk.
- Divide the diameter by 1.75 (4.5 cm) to find the length of your interior bench boards. Your tree bench will be made out of a sequence of parallel boards that wrap around your tree in a hexagon. To calculate how big you're going to make your interior bench boards, divide your base measurement by 1.75 (4.5 cm). Write this length down on a scrap piece of paper.[2]
- Round any numbers up to the nearest whole number to make things easier.
- For example, if your base length is , divide it by 1.75 (4.5 cm) to get . Round this up to to make things easy.
- Mark your interior board length on a board. Set out a length of wood on a stable work surface. Use your measuring tape to measure out the length you've just calculated. Use a carpentry pencil to put hash marks at the bottom of one side of the board's length.[3] lumber, but you can use 3 or 2 boards if you get thicker wood.}}
- These hash marks indicate the length of your interior board, closest to the tree.
- For the wood, make sure that you get hardwood, like pine or oak, that has been thermally-treated to protect it from the elements.
- Draw a line leading away from each hash mark at a 30-degree angle. Hold a speed square against the base of the board where you made your first mark. Pivot the speed square until you have a 30-degree angle pointing away from the center of the board. Draw a line through the board using the speed square as your straight edge. Repeat this process on the other side.[4]
- This should look like a trapezoid with the lines leading away from you.
- Repeat this process 5 more times to finish your interior boards. Use your measuring tape, speed square, and carpentry pencil to repeat this process on 5 additional lengths of boards. Once you've measured the interior boards, you won't need to do anymore measuring for the bench.[5]
[Edit]Cutting Your Bench Boards - Cut your interior boards using a miter saw. Put on some protective eyewear and some thick gloves. Plug your miter saw in and adjust the angle of the saw by moving the guideline on the base of the saw until it reads 30-degrees. Place your first board flush against the plate of the saw. Turn the saw on and slowly lower the blade into the line that you drew to trim the board. Repeat this process on the other 11 lines that you've drawn.[6]
- You have to flip the board around after every cut since the lines you've drawn lead away from the center.
- Lay 3 other boards above one of the interior boards. Once your interior boards are cut, put them together on the ground in the shape of a hexagon to make sure they fit. Then, set one of the boards on a stable surface with 30-degree cuts pointing away from you. Lay 3 boards lengthwise above the piece that you cut. Insert spacers in between the boards to separate them a little.[7]
- Put at least 2 spacers between each board to ensure that the boards are separated evenly.
- The size of your spacers will determine how much space is in between each board. So long as this distance is less than but more than , your bench will be structurally sound.
- Use a scrap piece of wood as a straight edge to mark your cuts. Lay a scrap piece of wood on top of the boards. Adjust it so that the edge of the cut interior board is flush with the edge of the scrap piece of wood. Use your carpentry pencil to extend the angle that you cut through the 3 boards above it. Repeat this process for the other 11 lines that you've drawn. Once you finish extending the lines of an interior board, set the pieces aside and a new set of 3 boards for each interior board.[8]
- You're essentially extending the 30-degree angle out from your interior board by tracing its path.
- If you don't have a ton of space, make a note in the middle of each board to indicate whether it belongs in the first, second, third, or fourth layer of your bench. If you do have plenty of room, set the boards aside in the proper order to keep track of your layers.
- Cut all of your boards to size at a 30-degree angle. Do not adjust the angle of your miter saw. Set each piece of lumber underneath the blade and use it to make plunge cuts along each of your lines. Cut each piece to size the same way you did when you were cutting the interior boards. With all of your boards cut, set your pieces out on the ground or a large table and check to make sure that all of your boards fit together in a hexagon.[9]
[Edit]Making Your Legs - Cut 12 lengths out of a board. Take a board and set it out on a stable work surface. Use a measuring tape and speed square to mark off 12 hash marks at a 90-degree angle on the board. Put between them based on how tall you want the bench to be. Adjust your miter saw to cut at 90-degrees and trim the board into 12 lengths.[10]
- The length of these boards will determine how high your bench is. You can make it a little taller or shorter if you'd like, but most tree benches are tall. Keep in mind that the bench boards will add a little height as well.
- You will attach 2 legs to each corner of your hexagon-shaped bench.
- Create 12 braces out of boards. Create 12 braces to hold the legs in place on both sides. Grab a long and use a measuring tape and carpentry pencil to draw your cut lines. Place 1 cut line every until you've marked off 12 lengths. Use your miter saw to split your lumber into 12 pieces to create your braces.[11]
- The 2 braces will hold the legs in place from opposite sides to keep the legs from wobbling or buckling. These braces are also known as stringers.
- Connect 2 braces to 2 legs and clamp them in place. Put 1 bracer down horizontally on a stable work surface. Then, set 1 leg on top of the brace at a 90-degree angle. Line the top left corner of the leg up with the top left corner of the brace. Repeat this process using a second leg on the right. Put a second bracer on top of the 2 legs and the first brace and hold it in place. Clamp the pieces together to hold them still.[12]
- This should look like a square with 1 side missing.
- When you install the legs, the braces will go at the top.
- Secure the legs to the braces using wood screws. Drill 2 screws through all 3 pieces of wood on the left. Drill 2 additional screws through the leg and braces on the right. Flip the legs over and add 4 more screws from the opposite side.[13]
- It doesn't matter where you place your screws so long as they're securing the middle portion of the leg and you aren't drilling into the exact same location on both sides.
- Repeat this process 6 times to create your leg assemblies. Make 5 more leg and brace structures to give each corner of your hexagon bench its own support. For each piece, lay a bracer down, add 2 legs, and put a bracer on top. Drill 2 screws into each side where the 3 pieces meet.[14] carriage bolt through the center of each leg where it meets the brace.}}
[Edit]Assembling the Bench - Stand your legs up on a flat surface and clamp them down. Set your 6 legs up in a hexagon on a flat, stable work surface. Line each set of legs up so that they're pointing at the center of your hexagon. Lay your bench boards on top of the legs in the same order that you're going to install them. Put heavy objects against both sides of each leg to keep them still.[15]
- Don't worry about being super precise. You're going to adjust the location of the legs after you lay your boards on top. You'll probably end up making multiple adjustments until the bench boards are laying correctly.
- Lay 5 sides of the bench down on top of the legs. Take each bench board and rest it on top of the horizontal pieces connecting the legs. Move your legs accordingly until the legs are even with each angle where the hexagonal boards meet. Push the legs in a little so that there is a of space between the front of the bench and the leg underneath.[16]
- Put your spacers back into each of the boards to ensure that they're evenly spaced out on every side.
- This is tricky since nothing is holding the boards in place. Take your time and work slowly. Enlist someone to help you carry and lower the individual boards into place.
- Take a good look at the structure once you're done. Look underneath to ensure that the angle where the bench boards meet is the center of each leg and that your boards are spaced out evenly before moving on.
- Drill pilot holes through the boards and legs. Put a pilot bit in your drill. Bore 1 pilot hole all the way through the middle of each board where it meets the brace. Choose one side of the bench to leave open, but leave the boards in place for reference. You'll finish the last section when the bench is around the tree. This will be a total of 40 pilot holes.[17]
- A pilot hole is a small hole that you drill into a piece of wood to create threading for a screw. It also prevents the wood from splintering when you screw into it.
- Drill wood screws through the pilot holes. To secure the boards to the braces, grab some wood screws. Line each screw up with the pilot hole that you made and drill it into the wood slowly using the lowest power setting on your drill. Continue drilling until the screw is flush with the surface of the board. Screw all of your boards into place, leaving 1 side unsecured.[18]
- At this point, you should have a 5-sided hexagon with 1 side missing.
- Wrap the bench around the tree using the opened side. Take the unscrewed boards off of the bench and set them aside. Enlist the help of a friend to help you carry your bench. Pick it up on opposite sides and carry it to your tree. Slide the bench around the tree using the open side of the bench. Set the bench down once the trunk is in the center of the bench.[19]
- If you attempt to lift the bench on your own, it may break under the odd distribution of weight from the unsecured side.
- Rotate the bench to orient it until you're happy with the way that it curves around the trunk.
- Finish the last side of your bench. With the bench sitting around your tree, finish the last set of boards. Put your boards in place and lay your spacers in between each board. Drill your pilot holes through the center of each bench board where it meets the brace and screw the boards in.[20]
- Take all of your spacers out when you're done.
- Level the bench using a spirit level and a garden spade. Take a spirit level and rest it horizontally on top of your bench. Look at the bubble in the middle of the level. If it's floating in the middle, your bench is even. Repeat this process for each side of your bench. On uneven sides, use a garden spade to remove the dirt underneath the legs until the bench becomes level.[21]
- Skip this step if you're installing the bench on a paved or gravel surface.
- The bench is going to shift and settle over time as the legs compress the soil underneath, so it's never really going to be perfect.
- This project will likely take 2-3 days. It's not especially difficult if you're familiar with a miter saw and have good organizational skills, but it is relatively time-consuming. Don't try to get this all done in one day.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not operate a miter saw without wearing protective eyewear and thick gloves. Put a dust mask on if you want to protect your lungs from sawdust particles.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Measuring tape
- Cloth measuring tape
- Carpentry pencil
- Scrap wood
- Speed square
- Miter saw
- Protective eyewear
- Thick gloves
- Dust mask (optional)
- boards
- spacers
- boards
- screws
- screws
- carriage bolts
- Clamps
- Spirit level
- Garden spade
- Natural brush
- Waterproof varnish or lacquer
[Edit]References |
How to Say Cheers in Irish Posted: 17 Mar 2020 05:00 PM PDT The standard way of saying "cheers" in Irish is "sláinte," but there are many more terms and phrases you can offer in toast when speaking the Irish language. Here are a few of the most helpful to know.[1] [Edit]Standard Cheers - Exclaim "Sláinte!" This is the closest term you can use to toast someone "cheers!" in Irish Gaelic.
- More accurately, the term "sláinte" translates into the English term "health." When using this term, you are essentially toasting to someone's health.
- Pronounce this Irish term as slawn-cha.[2]
- Offer "Sláinte mhaith!" This phrase emphasizes the well wishes of a standard "cheers."
- "Sláinte" means "health" and "mhaith" means "good."
- Translated directly, the term means "health good" or "good health."[3]
- You should pronounce this Irish phrase as slan-cha vah.
- State "Sláinte chugat!" This variation on the traditional "cheers" is a bit more personal and individualized.
- "Sláinte" means "health" and "chugat" means "you."
- When paired together in this manner, the English translation is "health to you."[4]
- Pronounce the Irish toast as slawn-cha hoo-ut'.
- You can also use "chugaibh" for many people. Pronounced "hoo-uv"
- Use "Sláinte agus táinte!" This phrase is another variant on the traditional "cheers" that emphasizes one's well wishes for the person being toasted.
- "Sláinte" means "health," "agus" means "and," and "táinte" means wealth.
- Translated literally, the phrase means "health and wealth" in English.[5]
- Pronounce this Irish phrase as slawn-cha ogg-uss tawn-cheh.
- Give a hearty "Sláinte na bhfear agus go maire na mná go deo!" This version of the traditional cheers is more elaborate and works especially well when used amongst a group of friends.
- "Sláinte" means "health," "na" means "the," and "bhfear" means "men."
- "Agus" means "and."
- "Go" means "that," "maire" means "endure," "na" means "the," "mná" means "women," "go" means "that," and "deo" means "forever."
- When everything is strung together, the toast means, "Health to the men and may the women live forever."
- This phrase should roughly be pronounced, slawn-cha na var agus guh mara na m-naw guh djeo.
[Edit]Additional Toasts and Well Wishes - Offer "Croí folláin agus gob fliuch!" This toast essentially offers a wish of health and drink.
- Translated directly, the phrase means "a healthy heart and a wet mouth."[6]
- "Croí" means "heart," "follain" means "healthy," "agus" means "and," "gob" means "beak" or "mouth," and "fliuich" means "wet."
- Pronounce the phrase as cree full-in ah-gus gob fluck.
- Exclaim "Fad saol agat, gob fliuch, agus bás in Éirinn!" This phrase expands on the wish for longevity and drink by also wishing the toasted a full life in Ireland.
- As a direct translation, this phrase means, "long life to you, a wet mouth, and death in Ireland."[7]
- "Fad" means "length" or "long," "saol" means "life," and "agat" means "have you" or "you have."
- "Gob" means "beak" or "mouth" and "fliuch" means "wet."
- Agus" means "and."
- "Bás" means "death," "in" means "in," and "Éireann" is the Irish name for "Ireland."
- You should pronounce this phrase as fah-d seal, gob fluck, ah-gus boss in Air-inn.
- Say "Nár laga Dia do lámh!" This toast is a wish for strength and endurance.
- Translated directly, the phrase means, "may God not weaken your hand."[8]
- "Nár" means "not," "laga" means "weak" or "weaken," "Dia" means "God," "do" means "to," and "lámh" means "hand."
- You should roughly pronounce the phrase as Nar lah-ga Djee-ah duh lawv.
- Use "Go dtaga do ríocht!" Offer this as a toast to prosperity.
- Translated in a direct sense, it means, "may thy kingdom come."
- "Go" means "in," "dtaga" means "come," "do" means "to," and "ríocht" means "kingdom."
- Pronounce this toast as guh DAG-uh duh REE-ukht.
[Edit]Seasonal Cheers - Shout "Nollaig shona duit" at Christmas. This is essentially the Irish equivalent of toasting "Merry Christmas" in English.
- "Nollaig shona" means "happy Christmas," and "duit" means "to you," so it directs the toast to the person being toasted.
- Pronounce this seasonal toast as null-ig hun-ah ditch.
- Use "Go mbeire muid mbeo ar an am seo arís" for New Year's. This toast is appropriate to use on New Year's Eve and wishes for health and prolonged life.
- It translates roughly to, "may we be alive at this time next year."
- This is another phrase that is difficult to translate directly. The first part, "Go mbeire muid mbeo ar" means, "may we live again" and the latter part, "an am seo arís," means "this time next year."
- You should pronounce this toast as go merr-ih-meedh mee-oh err on om shioh ah-reesh.
- Say "Sliocht sleachta ar shliocht bhur sleachta" at a wedding. Offer this toast to the bride and groom to wish blessings upon their future family.
- Roughly translated, the toast means, "may there be a generation of children on the children of your children."[9] Essentially, you are wishing for the newlyweds' family to continually expand and survive for many generations to come.
- Pronounce this wedding toast as sluckt schlock-ta er shlucht voor schlock-ta.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Make an Air Plant Terrarium Posted: 17 Mar 2020 09:00 AM PDT If you're looking to bring a little taste of nature into your home, try making an air plant terrarium. Creating a terrarium is simple and can be a fun process for both children and plant-lovers. It's as easy as getting a glass terrarium, then filling it with sand, rocks, and other decorations. Air plants are hardy, so they don't require much maintenance. Build your terrarium, decorate it, and then let it liven up your home. [Edit]Designing a Terrarium - Select up to 3 Tillandsia plants for your terrarium. Air plants, called Tillandsia, grow to be a variety of different sizes, so it's worth picking the ones you want before choosing a terrarium container. Many of them grow up to long and across. However, there are some varieties that grow as much as long and won't last long in a terrarium. If you're uncertain about how many to get, start with 1 and then add more later if you have room for them.[1]
- Some good terrarium varieties include loliacea, funkiana, and stricta. Tillandsia stricta gets a little bigger than the other ones, so you may not be able to fit more than one in a single terrarium.
- Tillandsia is sometimes sold as clumps. Clumps are multiple plants growing together into a ball. Clumps tend to be stronger than individual plants. They are likely to continue growing with proper care, which could be a problem if you're short on space.
- You can order air plants online. They hold up well during shipping, but, if you're worried about getting good plants, you may be able to find some at a home and garden center.
- Pick a vented glass container to house your plants. Once you have decided upon a plant size, find a quality container to match. These containers come in a variety of different sizes and styles, so keep in mind how you want the finished terrarium to look. Round terrariums are great for most small air plants, but make sure yours has an open top or side. Teardrop and pyramid-shaped containers fit Tillandsia stricta well, but make sure it has a missing panel on the top or side for ventilation.[2]
- The vent size can vary depending on the terrarium you choose.
- Consider where you're going to put the terrarium. Some containers are meant to be placed on a flat surface instead of hung up. Make sure you get one with a rope or hook if you want to hang your terrarium!
- You could also repurpose glass bowls or Mason jars for your terrarium. Most will be about in diameter or more. As long as plenty of air can get in, your air plant will be safe.
- The containers, as well as the remaining supplies needed for the terrarium, are available online and at most home and garden centers.
- Choose sand, pebbles or another base for the terrarium. Select something lightweight that doesn't retain a lot of water. If you're looking for a simple option, get some coarse aquarium or sandbox sand. Aquarium gravel or polished pebbles can bring some color to your terrarium. Use decorative moss or crushed, recycled glass to make your terrarium unique.[3]
- Air plants don't need soil. Soil absorbs moisture and can cause the plants to rot, so you're better off avoiding it.
- Try layering different bases to give your terrarium more style. For instance, you could mix white sand, colored pebbles, and crushed glass.
- Get bark, shells and other items if you wish to decorate the terrarium. These decorations aren't necessary, but they are useful for filling space inside the terrarium. Many decorations, such as bark and sticks, can be found outdoors, but make sure they are dry and free of bugs before putting them in the terrarium. Scatter some decorative moss or aquarium shells around for color. With careful decorating, you can make your terrarium look like a small piece of nature.[4]
- When choosing decorations, keep in mind how much space you have available in your terrarium. Select decorations sparingly to avoid overcrowding the air plants.
- To ensure your air plants are safe, buy decorations instead of getting them outdoors. You could get orchid bark from a hardware store, for instance.
[Edit]Constructing the Terrarium - Add sand in at least a -thick layer to the terrarium. Pour the sand into the terrarium first so it forms a base for you to build on. Try using plain, regular-colored sand for an inexpensive base that fits well with most terrarium designs. Level the sand out with your hand afterward.[5]
- You could use other colors of sand as well. For example, you might use blue sand instead, then decorate with shells or other plants to give the terrarium an ocean theme.
- If you're not planning on using other types of base material for decoration, you could fill the terrarium with more sand. However, make sure the air plant has plenty of room to grow.
- Brighten the terrarium with a layer of colored sand or other material. Sand comes in all sorts of different colors you can use to turn your terrarium into something vibrant and unique. If you're looking for something different, spread a -thick layer of rocks or recycled glass. Rocks and glass add a variety and are a good option if you don't want your terrarium to look like a miniature desert or beach.[6]
- For example, you could alternate layers of colored and regular sand to customize the terrarium with a pattern. Try using your favorite colors to make your terrarium stand out!
- The additional layers can be as thick as you want as long as you save enough room for the plants and any other decorations you wish to add.
- Place some scrap wood around the terrarium for forest theme. Get a couple of pieces of driftwood and spread them throughout the terrarium. Make sure you have room between the wood to fit the air plants. You could turn one piece of wood upside down and mount the air plant onto it for an alternative way to incorporate these decorations. Scrap wood goes well with black, brown, or regular sand for a natural look.[7]
- Small pieces of scrap wood can also fit well next to a couple of shells placed on plain sand.
- Use shells to create a beach theme for your terrarium. After filling the terrarium with plain sand or colorful aquarium sand, choose a couple of pretty shells you like. Make sure they are small enough to fit comfortably inside the terrarium. Set them down on top of the sand near where you plan on putting the air plants. It makes the air plants look like they grew up naturally from the sand rather than having been placed in the middle of all these decorations.[8]
- Match the shells to the base material you used. Colored shells go well with plain sand, but they might not stand out as much with bright, colored sand.
- If you're decorating with multiple shells, use different types of shells placed at different angles. Arrange them to make your terrarium more varied.
- Use decorative plants or coral to give your terrarium more variety. Get some aquarium coral, such as a red or black sea fan. Another option is to add a plant like a yarrow and rest it inside one of the terrarium vents. These decorations add plenty of color to your terrarium without taking nutrients away from the air plants. Spread them around so it looks like the air plants grew side by side with the decorative plants or coral.[9]
- Decorative moss is great for adding color to plain sand. It works very well if your terrarium is designed to look like a desert.
- Place the air plants on top of the material in the container. Air plants don't have roots and don't need to be buried. Set them down gently in a spacious spot to let them adapt to their new home. Make sure the plants aren't pressed up against the decorations or the walls of the terrarium. It helps them spread their leaves and dry off in case they get wet.[10]
- If the plants feel wet, set them aside for about 15 minutes before putting them in the terrarium. Moisture could cause them to rot. Burying the plants in the base material also forces more water onto them.
- It is possible to set air plants inside shells and other objects. However, make sure the shell is open with enough space for the plant to grow out of it.
- Secure the air plants with glue if you wish to mount them to decorations. Plan out the terrarium first by placing all decorations, then setting the plants where you intend on mounting them. Select a nontoxic adhesive like a silicone sealant, then spread a thin but consistent dab of it on the mounting surface. Gently but firmly press the plant onto the adhesive to stick it in place. Leave the plant undisturbed for about 24 hours to ensure the glue has time to solidify.[11]
- You could also tie the air plant down for a less permanent attachment. Use a long-lasting, sun resistant material like cable ties and place them loosely around the plant's stem.
- Make sure you mount air plants to nontoxic surfaces. Treated wood has copper in it that harms air plants. Painted and stained wood may also have dangerous chemicals.
[Edit]Choosing a Spot for the Terrarium - Place the terrarium in an area that receives 1 to 3 hours of indirect sunlight a day. Try keeping your terrarium within of a nearby window. Use east, north, or south-facing windows in your home, since they let in the most sunlight. Air plants won't last if they are kept in the dark or in dim light all day.[12]
- You could also set the terrarium within of an artificial light.
- As long as you keep air plants well-watered, they can withstand more direct sunlight and hotter temperatures.
- Select a spot away from cold and moisture for the terrarium. Air plants are tropical, so they don't do well in cold weather. Keep your terrarium away from air conditioners and drafty windows, for example. These sources also tend to introduce too much moisture to the terrarium. Air plants do best in environments above , so they survive well inside homes.[13]
- Keep your terrarium in a safe spot where rain, leaks, or spills won't get inside of it. The water could cause the plants to begin rotting.
- Hang the terrarium or set it on a flat surface. This will depend on the kind of terrarium you have. If you have a hanging terrarium, try tying it to a wall hook, nail, or curtain rod, for instance. Most commercial terrariums come with hanging ropes that can be secured to a hanging point inside your home. If you have a standing terrarium, place it on a flat, stable surface, such as a desk or countertop.[14]
- Make sure the terrarium won't be bumped into or knocked over. Jostling it too much could mix up the base material, inadvertently burying the plants or even breaking the glass.
[Edit]Caring for Air Plants - Take the plants out of the terrarium at least once a week. Even though air plants get their nutrients from the air, they still require a little bit of water from time to time. Set aside a day every week for watering. Pull each plant out to avoid introducing too much moisture to the terrarium.[15]
- Air plants in hot, dry areas may need to be watered more frequently. Try misting or soaking them 2 to 3 times a week instead.
- Check the leaves to see if your plants are getting enough water. The leaves feel full and stiff when they are healthy. They turn soft, light, or even wrinkly when they need more water.
- Soak the plants in a bowl of cold water for up to 30 minutes. Fill a bowl with water, then submerge the plants. It may sound weird, but the bath doesn't harm them. Just remember to take them out when the time is up![16]
- If you don't have time to soak the plants, fill a spray bottle instead. Mist the plants thoroughly for about 15 seconds.
- To ensure your plants are well-watered, you could soak them for longer once every 2 to 3 weeks. Soak them for 2 hours to ensure they absorb plenty of water.
- If you have a flowering air plant, spray it instead of soaking it.
- Leave the plants in an open area to air dry for 4 hours. Give each plant a gentle shake to remove excess moisture. Then, set it in a spot with good air circulation. Keep the plants out of direct sunlight while they dry. When they're done drying, move them back to the terrarium.[17]
- Make sure the plants and the terrarium is completely dry. Air plants are soft and prone to rotting from excessive moisture.
- You could also blot off the excess moisture with a paper towel. Doing this is useful if you aren't able to leave the plant out for long, but try to be as thorough as possible.
- Pull the buds off of the plant as they form and grow. Air plants produce new plants called pups. Over time, you may see these new plants coming up from the bottom of the stem. Wait until they are at least ⅓ of the size as the original plant. Then, twist them off by hand to remove them. You can get rid of them or set them in a terrarium so they continue to grow.[18]
- If you are unable to remove the pups by hand, use a sharp knife to separate them from the original plant. Cut as close to the original plant as possible.
- Air plants grow slowly, so you may not notice new growth until 1 to 3 years have passed. Then, the air plant flowers and starts growing a bunch of pups.
- Your original air plant will die a few weeks after it flowers, so save a few pups to replace it in your terrarium. Alternatively, you could leave the new growth on the old plant to turn it into a cluster, but you might run out of space in the terrarium.
- Air plants can also be grown on plastic trays and other containers. Use planters for bigger air plants that won't fit in a terrarium.
- To fertilize air plants, mix a bromeliad fertilizer or liquid plant food into water and spray it on the plant in spring and summer. It isn't necessary unless your plant is having a hard time surviving or you're eager to get it to produce new buds.[19]
- When mounting an air plant, be very gentle to avoid cutting into it or otherwise causing damage. Air plants can be stapled to mounts for extra security as long as you don't staple through the fleshy stem.
[Edit]Warnings - Copper containers are harmful to air plants. If you're choosing a terrarium that isn't glass, make sure it isn't made with copper.[20]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - 1 to 3 air plants
- Glass terrarium
- Coarse sand, pebbles, or another base
- Driftwood and other decorative material
- Bowl or misting bottle
- Hangers and hanging string (optional)
[Edit]References |
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