| How to Declutter Your Drawers Posted: 26 Apr 2020 01:00 AM PDT While drawers can help you store the various odds and ends within your home, they can become a catch-all over time. Although it may seem like a daunting task, you can declutter your junk, kitchen, and dresser drawers with a bit of sorting, discarding, and reorganization. If you find that you have a lot of garments or trinkets that you don't need, consider donating, selling, or tossing the items. With a regular cleaning schedule in place, you may end up making your household more streamlined and organized! [Edit]Organizing a Junk Drawer - Remove everything from the drawer. Find a clean, flat surface, like a countertop or table, and move the items from your junk drawer over there. Don't worry about sorting your belongings right away—instead, focus on clearing everything out of the junk drawer so you can begin making the best use of your space.[1]
- Ideally, you want to clean out your junk drawers every 6 months.
- Disinfect the drawer with an all-purpose cleaner. Take a clean paper towel or cloth and spritz it with the cleaner. With the wet paper towel, wipe along the sides, edges, and bottom of the junk drawer. Follow the packaging instructions to see how long the surface needs to air out before items can be placed back into the drawer.[2]
- You can also use soap and water in lieu of a disinfectant wipe.[3]
- If you're working with a wooden drawer, pour a peanut-sized amount of cedar oil onto a clean rag and rub it into the material.
- Toss out anything from the drawer that you don't need. Examine each item individually, evaluating if you really need it or not. If you can't decide, try asking yourself if the item makes you happy, or if it's simply taking up space in your home. If the item doesn't serve an active, positive purpose for you, toss it out or set it aside for donation.[4]
- For instance, a flashlight could be a useful item to keep on hand, while a bag of old batteries wouldn't be as practical.
- Toss out anything that's unusable, like dried white-out or inkless pens.
- Sort the items in your drawer by practicality. Create small piles on your countertop, table, or another flat surface. Examine each pile to decide which items are used most often, as these can go in the front of the drawer. On the other hand, think about which items don't get a lot of use on a weekly or monthly basis, as these could go in the back.[5]
- For example, place your calculator in the front of your drawer and a bottle of superglue in the back.
- Invest in drawer dividers if you want a long-term solution. Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of your drawer. With these measurements, look online to find a set of dividers that will fit in your specific drawer. Follow the packaging instructions so you can install the divider or organizer correctly.[6]
- You can buy many drawer dividers for under $25.
- For instance, you could place binder clips in 1 compartment, sticky notes in another, and thumbtacks in a separate partition.
- If you're organizing a utility drawer, you could keep screwdrivers in 1 section, a tape measure in another, and batteries in another partition.
- Use small cups or containers to store small odds and ends. Place a variety of small, rectangular- and square-shaped bins inside your drawer. Experiment with the placement of the items until you find a layout that works well with the contents of your junk drawer.[7]
- For instance, you could use a variety of square-shaped trays to hold decorative tape, pens, paper clips, business cards, and other trinkets.
- Arrange your most-used items in the front of the drawer. Place your moderately-used items in the middle of the drawer, depending on how often you use them. If you only use certain items on occasion, arrange them in the back of the drawer instead.[8]
- For example, place your tape in the front of the drawer, while a bag of labels or twist ties might go towards the back.
[Edit]Straightening a Kitchen Drawer - Toss out any old, broken, or unused items from your kitchen drawers. Pull out a trash bag as you examine the contents of your kitchen drawer. Look over each utensil, tool, or other cooking supply to see if it's broken, moldy, unused, or otherwise past its prime. Throw away these old, unwanted items so you can create more space for more useful utensils and kitchenware.[9]
- If you have unused items that are in mint condition, consider donating them to a secondhand shop or another charity group.
- Fill your drawers with items that you use most often. Think about the meals you prepare and other tasks that you normally do while in the kitchen. If you use certain utensils and tools more than others, group those items together in a single drawer. Place the items that you don't use as much in a separate drawer or cabinet.[10]
- For instance, if you prepare a lot of meals, place your measuring cups and cutting knives in the same drawer.
- If you spend a lot of time preparing tea, coffee, or other beverages, put your juicer and tea strainer in the same area.
- Use drawer dividers to separate your utensils and tools. Take a ruler and measuring tape and figure out the basic dimensions of your kitchen drawers. Look online or in a home goods store to find a storage space that matches those dimensions. Slide or place the divider into your drawer, then use the different partitions to separate and organize your kitchen supplies.[11]
- For instance, you could place your measuring spoons in 1 section of the drawer, then use another section for your knives and tongs. You could also dedicate a section to your can opener, corkscrew, or meat thermometer.
- Stack your knives in a drawer instead of using a knife block. Dedicate 1 side or portion of your drawer to your knife collection, as a knife block can take up a lot of valuable counter space. For an extra layer of organization, try sorting the knives by type, like cleavers and serrated blades.[12]
- You can also dedicate a separate drawer for your utensils.
[Edit]Cleaning Your Dresser Drawers - Remove and sort your clothing 1 drawer at a time. Take all of the clothing out of a dresser drawer and set it on a flat surface, like a bedspread or carpet. Separate your clothes by item type, then remove anything you no longer want or need.[13]
- Thrift and consignment stores are great places to send unwanted clothing. You can also look into local charities near you that collect unwanted clothing.
- Wipe out each drawer with a dust cloth. Take a clean cloth and wipe down the edges, sides, and bottoms of the drawers. Leave your drawers open for a few minutes so they can air out completely.[14]
- If your drawers are especially dirty, clean them out with soap and water.[15]
- Dedicate certain drawers to specific items of clothing. Don't mix your socks, tops, and shorts in 1 area! Instead, designate 1 drawer each for your undergarments, tops, bottoms, pajamas, and so forth.[16]
- For instance, if your dresser has 3 drawers, dedicate the top section to undergarments and socks, the middle section to shirts and tops, and bottom section to pants and bottoms.
- Fold your clothes so they fit in the dresser drawer. Try to make your clothing items look as uniform and compact as possible before placing them in the dresser. Tuck in the sleeves of the fabric so your garments look square-shaped and uniform. Position these shirts upright in the drawer so that they're side-by-side with one another. This way, you can access and view them easily later on.[17]
- If you want to take your folding to the next level, try sorting your clothing by color in the drawer!
- Roll and tie up any loose cords that you find and decide to keep in your junk drawers.[18]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Organizing a Junk Drawer - Disinfectant wipes
- Measuring tape
- Drawer dividers
- Small trays or cups
[Edit]Straightening a Kitchen Drawer - Trash bags
- Measuring tape
- Drawer dividers
[Edit]Cleaning Your Dresser Drawers - Large bags
- Dust cloth
- Dividers or bins
[Edit]References |
| How to Force Bloom on Aloe Vera Posted: 25 Apr 2020 05:00 PM PDT The beautiful yellow or orange flowers of the aloe vera plant typically bloom in the springtime. For your plant to bloom, it has to be healthy and at least 4 years old, so be patient if your plant is younger. You can increase the likelihood that your mature aloe vera plant will bloom by giving it more light, feeding it properly, and by removing the baby bulbs. [Edit]Giving Your Plant More Light - Relocate your indoor aloe vera plant throughout the day to follow the sun. Different areas of your home may experience changes in light as the sun moves. Keep note of the sunniest spots and move your aloe vera plant accordingly to give it at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day.[1]
- For instance, place it on your kitchen windowsill so it gets 3 or 4 hours of morning light. Then, move it to a table in your dining or living room for 3 or 4 more hours of midday and afternoon sunshine.
- Do this every day during the winter and spring months to increase the chances that your aloe vera plant will bloom. The aloe plant will not bloom in any season other than spring, so don't try to force it to bloom during the summer, fall, or winter.
- Keep your indoor plant in a place that's 55°F to 80°F (13°C to 27°C). Sudden temperature changes can cause the leaves to turn brown. Keep the plant in an environment with a stable temperature between 55°F and 80°F (13°C and 27°C). Placing the plant in direct sunlight in a room that's already relatively warm could be too much heat for the plant, so be mindful and check the leaves for signs of burning.[2]
- Don't put the plant in a place where its leaves are touching a window. The excess heat or cold coming from the window could burn the leaves and cause browning.
- If you see any brown sunspots appear on the leaves, move the plant to a cooler room and only give it indirect sunlight for 4 to 5 days until the sunspots go away.
- Avoid placing the plant next to a heater, A/C unit, fan, television, or any other source of heat or drafts.
- Move your aloe vera plant outside if it's 70°F to 85°F (21°C to 29°C). The easiest way to make your aloe vera plant bloom is to give it more direct sunlight. The ideal temperature for aloe vera plants to bloom is 70°F to 85°F (21°C to 29°C), so if you live in an area with a mild climate, move your plant outside.[3]
- If it gets colder than 60°F at night where you live, you'll need to bring your plant inside.
- Choose a spot that gets at least 8 hours of direct sunlight.
- Use an indoor UV lamp on cloudy days if you can. An indoor grow lamp is the perfect solution to make up for cloudy days. Choose a white fluorescent or a red or blue LED grow lamp and position it next to your aloe vera plant. Adjust the head so the light shines directly on the leaves from above. The distance from the bulb to the leaves depends on the size of your plant.[4]
- For example, if your plant is to wide, position the bulb to away from the top of the plant.
- A white fluorescent LED lamp will give you a soft, white light that will complement any room, but a red or blue LED lamp might be better able to give your plant the right kind of photosynthetic light it needs.
- If you notice the leaves start to turn brown after using a grow lamp, decrease the power of the lamp if you can or, decrease the amount of time you use the lamp.
- If you have 2 plants that are each across, place them side by side and adjust the bulb so it's away from the tops of the plants.
- Water the plant once a week when the top of soil is dry. Wait until the top to of soil is dry before watering the plant. It's important to let it dry out a little between waterings because too much moisture can cause root rot, bruises on the leaves, and attract diseases. If you're not sure, stick your finger into the top of soil to feel for moisture.[5]
- Exposing the plant to more light will make it dry out faster, so stick to a regular schedule so your plant doesn't get too dry if you forget to do it on the 7th day.
- If the soil is slightly damp near the tip of your finger, don't water it for another 1 or 2 days. If it's sopping wet, leave it alone for 1 week.
- Slowly pour water onto the soil until you notice water draining from the pot's drainage hole.
- If you've placed your aloe vera plant outside, bring it inside or cover it when it rains so it doesn't take in too much water.
[Edit]Fertilizing Your Aloe Vera Plant - Choose a fertilizer that says either "8-8-8" or "10-10-10" on the label. Use a granular fertilizer intended for foliage plants. Houseplant fertilizers that specify they're for flowering plants typically have high amounts of salt and phosphorus, which can dry out the roots of your aloe vera plant.[6]
- The 3 numbers on plant fertilizers correspond to the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
- Worm castings, manure, or compost are great alternatives to store-bought fertilizer.
- Dilute 1/2 of the recommended amount of granular fertilizer in water. A fertilizer that's too concentrated with nutrients can easily overwhelm your aloe vera plant, so it's important to use only 1/2 the recommended amount on the package. Use the same amount of water suggested on the package so the fertilizer is half as strong.[7]
- For instance, if the directions on the package say to mix 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 g) of fertilizer with , use 1/4 teaspoon (1 to 1.3 g) instead.
- Fertilize your aloe vera plant when the top of soil is dry. Stick your finger into the soil to feel if it's dry. If it is, pour enough of the solution onto the soil until you see water draining from the base of the pot.[8]
- If the soil is damp, wait 1 or 2 days before testing the soil again.
- Do this once a month in the early spring and midsummer (e.g., March, April, June, and July).
[Edit]Propagating the Pups - Identify the babies, or pups, of the aloe vera plant. The pups grow alongside the main plant and typically form as a result of the main root system running out of room in the pot. They look like miniature aloe vera plants that are only to tall.[9]
- Removing the pups will allow the mother plant to focus its energy on growing flowers.
- Don't toss the pups because they can be transferred into smaller containers—that means more aloe plants for you!
- If you see some pups that are just starting to sprout, you can remove those too. Just know that these premature pups may not survive being put in a new pot.
- Remove the entire plant from the pot. Run a dull knife or garden shovel around the edge of the pot (just like loosening a cake from a cake pan) to make it easier to remove the plant. Tilt the pot slightly to the side and grasp the base (or the sturdiest part) of the plant with your hand. Wiggle it out of the pot and place it upright onto a work surface.[10]
- The idea is the pull the plant out of the pot intact.
- If you plan to replace it into the same pot, dump out the old potting soil. You can reuse it, but using fresh potting mix will give the plant more nutrients.
- Wedge a hand shovel between the pup and the main plant to separate them. Insert a hand shovel or dull knife into the space between the pup and the mother plant. The pup's root systems don't go down as far, so only insert your tool about down into the soil. Wiggle the tool around to loosen the soil between the pup and the mother before pulling the pup away from the mother plant.[11]
- Be careful not to drive the tool into the center of any of the root systems.
- If you meet resistance, wiggle a knife into the soil between the pup and the mother to loosen the pup's root system.
- Repeat this process for each pup that is growing around the mother plant.
- Place the mother plant and pups in a cool, dry place for 24 hours. Leave the plant and the pups on a work table or garden bench out of direct sunlight for at least 1 day. This will help heal the plants' wounds before they're re-potted.[12]
- It's okay to leave them laying out for up to 6 days if you can't re-pot them after the first 24 hours.
- After the first 24 hours, you might notice the cut parts on the roots have dried up into calluses. (This is a good thing.)
- Fill a large pot 1/3 of the way with potting mix and replace the plant. Pour a layer of potting soil at the base of the large planter (about 1/3 of the way up). Place the mother plant back into the pot and add more soil, leaving of room at the top. Use potting soil specifically made for succulents to ensure the soil stays aerated. Pat down the top of the soil to hold the plant in place.[13]
- The ideal succulent potting mix has ingredients like perlite, lava rock, and coarse sand.
- Don't reuse the old soil in the pot. It won't harm the mother plant, but it's not as good as using fresh potting soil if you want your mother plant to bloom.
- Wait 3 days before you water the mother plant. Repotting can be hard on a plant, so give it some time to adjust to the new soil before you water it. After 3 days, water it as you normally would, pouring enough water onto the soil until you see it draining out of the pot.[14]
- While it's not necessary, keeping the plant out of direct sunlight for the first 3 days may help it adjust faster.
- Fill several small pots (1 for each pup) 3/4 full with potting soil. Each pup needs its own container to develop strong root systems. Fill each small container 3/4 of the way full with the same succulent-specific potting mix that you used for the mother plant.[15]
- If you have too many pups and not enough pots, feel free to plant 3 or 4 pups together in a larger pot. Make sure each pup has at least to of space around it. Note that you'll eventually have to transfer them into their own larger pots if you want them to keep growing.
- Place each pup into their separate containers and add soil to cover the roots. Place each pup on top of the potting mix and add more soil until the root system is covered. Pat down the soil around the pup to hold it in place. Water each pup and then let them dry out for 3 weeks.[16]
- Waiting 3 weeks to water the pups will force their new roots to grow in search of water.
- After the initial 3 weeks, water them once a week and follow basic care instructions so they can grow up to be mature, flowering aloe vera plants just like their mother!
- Keep a close eye on your aloe vera plant if you leave it in the sun. If you live in a hot, dry climate, too much sun can cause the leaves to turn brown.
[Edit]Warnings - Keep a close eye on your aloe vera plant if you leave it in the sun. If you live in a hot, dry climate, too much sun can cause the leaves to turn brown.
- Don't fertilizer that has a high concentration of nitrogen because it can cause leaf and root problems.
[Edit]References |
| How to Hem a Dress by Hand Posted: 25 Apr 2020 09:00 AM PDT If you've never hemmed a dress before, you might feel intimidated and unsure about where to start. It's actually pretty simple and you don't need a lot of sewing skills to do this well. In fact, you can complete this project in half an hour or less with just a needle and thread, using a blind stitch. When you turn your dress right side out, the stitches won't be visible at all. [Edit]Marking the Hemline - Try on the dress to determine where you want the hem to be. Don't wear heels or shoes that will tilt you forward so the hemline is uneven. Instead, stand up stand with your feet flat on the floor so you can see where the dress falls. If you want to make the dress shorter, determine how much fabric you'd like to remove.[1]
- You can try on the shoes that you plan to wear with the dress in order to get an idea of where you want the hemline. However, take them off when you begin to mark the hemline or it may be slanted.
- Turn the dress inside out and use fabric chalk to mark the hemline. Take off the dress and turn it inside out before laying it flat on your work surface. Lay a ruler or measuring tape on the dress and make marks every along the hemline. Then, lay a ruler across the marks to line them up and draw along the hemline.[2]
- If you're struggling to mark an even hemline, put the dress back on while it's inside out and ask a friend to mark the line for you.
- Draw another line below the hemline. Use the chalk to make a parallel line below the hemline so you know where to actually cut the fabric. Once you've cut the fabric along this line, you'll fold it up so your hemline falls where you want.[3]
- If you forget to mark a lower cutting line, your finished hemline will be higher since you'll fold and sew the bottom edge of the fabric.
- Cut the excess fabric from the bottom of the dress if you're shortening the dress. Once you know how much fabric to remove, use scissors to carefully cut along the lower line you marked. Discard the excess fabric or save the scraps for another sewing project.[4]
- Skip this step if you're hemming the unfinished edge from a dress that you've already measured and cut.
[Edit]Hand-Stitching the Hem - Fold the edge of the fabric over and tuck the raw edge under. Take the raw edge of the fabric and bring it up so the bottom of the fabric lines up with the hemline that you marked. Then, fold the top of the folded fabric under to hide the raw edge.[5]
- Although you don't have to tuck the raw edge under, your hemline will look more professional if the raw edge isn't visible.
- Pin the new hemline in place with sewing pins. To prevent the folded edge from coming undone, stick a sewing pin through the folded fabric. Ensure that you insert the pins vertically so they secure the folds. Position the sewing pins about every so the fabric doesn't slide around.[6]
- Thread a sewing needle. Cut a length of thread that's about long and thread it through the eye of a sewing needle. Then, make a knot at the tail.[7]
- It's important to choose thread that perfectly matches the dress. This way, it won't be noticeable if someone sees the dress's inner hemline.
- Insert the needle into the fabric at the seam. Keep the dress turned inside out so you're only sewing through the wrong side of the fabric. Find the vertical seam where the dress pieces are sewn together. Then, push your needle through a few of the fabric's surface loops so you're not inserting it from the bottom of the fabric. Pull the thread until you reach the knot at the end of the tail.[8]
- If you're working with thick fabric, insert the needle again and bring it through the thread's loop before pulling the thread tightly. This secures an extra knot.
- Push the needle through a stitch directly above the folded hem. Don't push the needle through the fabric or the stitch will be visible on the right side of the dress. Instead, slide your needle through a single loop on the surface of the fabric so you don't poke a hole onto the right side of the dress. Then, pull your needle to draw the thread through the stitch.[9]
- It might feel like you're not really sewing through the fabric, but as long as you pick up a single stitch, your hemline will hold.
- Pick up a stitch on the folded fabric below the hemline. Insert the tip of the needle into a single stitch below the fold. Ensure that you're sewing on the folded fabric instead of above it. Then, pull the thread so it secures the fold in place.[10]
- Pull gently so you don't make the hemline pucker.
- Work the blind hem stitch from right to left across the entire hemline. Move your needle about to the right and insert it into a stitch on the fabric above the fold. Remember not to push through the fabric to the right side of the dress. Then, make another tiny stitch below it on the folded fabric. Repeat the blind hem stitch around the entire hem until you reach the seam where you started.[11]
- If you're left-handed, it's probably easier to sew from left to right.
- Trim the thread tail and turn the hemmed dress right side out. Once you reach the seam where you started hemming the dress, insert the needle and pull until you make a loop. Bring the needle through the loop to knot the thread. Do this 1 more time before trimming off the excess thread and turning the dress right side out.[12]
- If you're hemming a dress made with silk, chiffon, or lace, sew a rolled hem instead.
- Because denim is such a heavy fabric, hem a denim skirt or dress using a machine.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Fabric chalk
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Needle
- Thread
- Scissors
- Straight pins
[Edit]References |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário