| How to Improve WiFi Reception Posted: 23 May 2020 01:00 AM PDT This wikiHow teaches you how to improve signal strength and minimize interference on your home wireless network. Your ability to maintain a consistent connection to Wi-Fi depends on many factors, including the physical location of your wireless access point. Placing your router in the best possible location and minimizing interference (both physical and wireless) can greatly improve network performance. - Remove physical obstructions between your computer and the router. A Wi-Fi signal can usually travel about 1000 feet, but every wall drops that by about 100 feet. To maintain the most reliable connection, make sure your computer has line-of-sight access to the router. If that's not possible, you can still improve reception by minimizing some barriers:
- Place the router high up, such as on a wall mount or high shelf. If the router is on the floor or on a low table, you'll be wasting much of the router's signal 360-degree range.[1]
- Glass from mirrors and windows reflect Wi-Fi signals back around the room. If you can't move the router away from glass, try covering the glass with a curtain or cloth.
- Thicker walls, such as those made of brick, concrete, or stone, seriously impact signal strength. You may also run into trouble if your walls contain metal ducts, studs, and pipes. If your walls are impeding the Wi-Fi signal, open the door to the room where your router is, and place the router is as close to it as possible.
- Tall furniture and appliances can block signals, especially when leaning against thick walls. Avoid setting up your wireless router in rooms with lots of tall objects.
- Switch to 5 GHz. If you have a dual-band router (2 GHz and 5 GHz), log in to your router's admin website and switch the wireless band setting to 5 GHz.[2] Because fewer devices operate at this frequency, this band is less crowded, resulting in a speedier and more reliable wireless connection.[3]
- Eliminate 2.4 GHz wireless interference. If you're using 5 GHz you can skip this step. If your only option is 2.4 GHz, interference from common household electronics and neighboring networks can lead to dropped connections and slow speeds. Try minimizing interference from the following sources:
- Your neighbor's wireless network. Move your router closer to the center of your home or office if your neighbor's router is too close to yours.
- 2.4 GHz cordless phones and Bluetooth accessors.
- High-voltage household items like air conditioners, microwaves, refrigerators, and washing machines.
- Baby monitors and wireless security equipment.
- Connect the Wi-Fi router to a less-busy channel. If too many of your neighbors are using the same Wi-Fi channel, your connection is likely slow and/or spotty.[4] Try a free Wi-Fi scanning tool like inSSIDer by MetaGeek to identify the least crowded channel to connect to.
- If you have a 2.4 GHz wireless router, you'll want to make sure it is connected to one of the three non-overlapping channels—1, 6, or 11. This can be done in your router's administration portal in the Wi-Fi or Wireless section. Look for a sub-menu called Radio or Channel.
- If you have a 5 GHz router, there's less chance of a crowded channel resulting in a slow connection, though it's still possible.
- Add a wireless range extender or additional antennas. If it's not possible to be within 50 to 100 feet of your router and/or there are physical obstructions, you can use a range extender to rebroadcast your router's Wi-Fi signal in other parts of your home or office.[5] You can also try adding more antennas. For example, you might have one antenna at a 45° angle, one at 60°, and one at 35°. That way, the signal will blanket the area.
- See this wikiHow to learn how to set up a range extender.
- Another option is a mesh router.[6] This type of router consists of multiple access points placed throughout the home to boost signal in those locations. The advantage of a mesh router to a range extender is that you can manage all of the access points from one central admin interface.
- Restart your router at least once a month. To do this, turn off the router, wait for 30 seconds, and then turn it back on. Let it run for about 5 minutes, and then check your internet speed.
- Create an aluminum foil reflector. If you're unable to boost your Wi-Fi signal far enough and don't have a repeater or mesh router, you can make a parabolic reflector out of aluminum foil to place behind your router's antennas. Here's how:
- Cut about 11" of aluminum foil from the roll.
- Tightly wrap the foil around a 2-liter soda bottle.
- Unwrap the foil after a few seconds—it should now be curved.
- Place the curved foil behind the antennas of the router so the open part of the curve is facing the direction you want to send a higher level of signal.
- Disconnect unused computers and accessories from the network. If you have multiple computers, phones, tablets, printers, Smart TVs, and other accessories using your wireless network at once, you might be slowing down your wireless network. Turn off or disconnect the devices you aren't using to improve network speeds for those you are using.
- You can limit the number of devices your router will allow to connect at a time. This is typically done by logging in to your router's administrator website and adjusting settings in the LAN or Local Network area.
- Update your router's firmware. If you're still experiencing poor reception, your router may be in need of a firmware update. This can usually be done in your router's admin portal, but some routers require additional steps. See this wikiHow to learn the basics of updating your router's firmware.
- Get a new router about every 3 years. If you've had your router for 3 or more years, it's probably time to replace it. That's about their average lifespan, since they're typically on 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and they're often exposed to things like power outages or surges.
- Make sure that your router is set to full transmission power.
- Depending on your brand and model of wireless router, you may be able to replace the built-in software with a replacement open source solution that adds much more capabilities and the option to increase the power to your wireless antenna.
- The computer case itself can be a significant barrier to the Wi-Fi signal - try positioning the case so it doesn't come between the network card and router antennas.
- The addition of a "high gain" (higher dBi) external antenna will often provide increased reception signal and performance. Note that a higher dBi increases the signal horizontally, but decreases vertically. If you need to cover several floors, a higher dBi will probably not help. In this case, you might consider buying a Wi-Fi amplifier, which will boost your signal.
[Edit]Warnings - If you replace your router's firmware, it may void your warranty. If not done properly it can damage your router irreparably.
- If you turn the power up too high on a modified wireless router it may suffer permanent damage.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Negotiate Posted: 22 May 2020 05:00 PM PDT Whether it's buying a house, disputing your cell phone bill, scoring more frequent flier miles, haggling in China, or paying off your credit card, the basic principles of negotiation are the same. Just remember that even the most skilled and experienced negotiators will feel discomfort when negotiating. The only difference is a skilled negotiator has learned to recognize, and suppress the outward signs of these feelings. [Edit]Anticipate Negotiation Tactics - Decide on your break-even point. In financial terms, this is the lowest amount or cheapest price you will accept in the deal. In non-financial terms, this is the "worst-case scenario" you are willing to accept before walking away from the negotiating table. Not knowing your break-even point can leave you accepting a deal that is not in your best interest.[1]
- If you are representing someone else in a negotiation, get your client's agreement for a target deal in writing beforehand. Otherwise, when you negotiate deal, and they decide that they don't like it after all, your credibility is the one that takes the hit. Proper preparation can avoid this from happening.
- Know what you're worth. Is what you're offering hard to come by, or is it a dime a dozen? If what you have is rare or noteworthy, you have the better bargaining position. How much does the other party need you? If they need you more than you need them, you have the better position, and can afford to ask for more. If, however, you need them more than they need you, how can you give yourself an edge?[2]
- A hostage negotiator, for example, isn't offering anything special, and needs the hostages more than the abductor needs the hostages. For this reason, being a hostage negotiator is very hard. In order to compensate for these deficiencies, the negotiator must be good at making small concessions seem big, and turn emotional promises into valuable weapons.
- A rare gem vendor, on the other hand, has something that is rarely found in the world. She doesn't need a particular person's money — only the highest amount of money, if she's a good negotiator — but people want her particular gem. This puts her in excellent position to extract extra value from the people she's negotiating with.
- Never feel rushed. Don't underestimate your ability to negotiate for what you want by simply outlasting someone else. If you have patience, use it. If you lack patience, gain it. What often happens in negotiations is that people get tired and accept a position that they wouldn't ordinarily accept because they're tired of negotiating. If you can outlast someone by staying at the table longer, chances are you'll get more of what you want.[3]
- Plan how you will structure your proposals. Your proposals are what you offer to the other person. A negotiation is a series of exchanges, where one person offers a proposal and the other person counter-proposes. The structure of your proposals can spell success or lead to disaster.[4]
- If you're negotiating someone else's life, your proposals need to be reasonable right off the bat; you don't want to risk someone's life. The downside of starting off aggressive is just too much.
- If, however, you're negotiating your starting salary, it pays to start off asking for more than you expect to get. If the employer agrees, you've gotten more than you asked for; if the employer negotiates you down to a lower salary, you're heightening the impression that you're being "bled," thereby increasing your chances of securing a better final salary.
- Be ready to walk away. You know what your break-even point is, and you know if that's not what you're getting. Be willing to walk out the door if that's the case. You might find that the other party will call you back, but you should feel happy with your efforts if they don't.
[Edit]Negotiate - Depending on the situation, open high but not extreme. Open at your maximum sustainable position (the most you can logically argue for). Ask for what you want, and then some. Starting high is important because you'll most likely be negotiated to a lower level. If your opening offer is too close to your breaking point, then you will not have enough bargaining range to concede to the other party as a way of giving satisfaction.
- On the other hand, you also want to avoid making an outrageous opening offer since doing so may create a "chilling effect" in which the opening party quickly loses motivation to continue negotiations with you. Your opening offer should be much greater than the minimum you'll accept, but close to the most reasonable maximum amount the other person may pay or accept.[5]
- Are you worried about insulting them, especially if making a very low offer to buy something? Remember that this is business, and if they don't like your offer, they can always counter-offer. Be bold. If you don't take advantage of them, remember that they'll take advantage of you. The act of negotiation is mutually and beneficially taking advantage of each other.
- Shop around, and bring proof. If you are buying a car and you know the other dealer will sell you the same car for $200 less, tell them so. Tell them the name of the dealer and salesman. If you're negotiating a salary and you've researched how much people in equivalent positions get paid in your area, print out those statistics and have them handy. The threat of losing business or opportunity, even if it's not a serious one, can make people compromise.
- Use silence. When the other party makes a proposal, don't reply immediately. Instead use your body language to indicate that you're not satisfied. This will make the other person feel uncomfortable and insecure and often force them to come up with a better offer to fill the silence.[6]
- Offer to pay up front. An up-front payment is always desirable to a seller, especially in situations where most people do not pay up front (we're looking at you, car dealerships). As the buyer, you can also offer to buy in bulk, paying in advance for a certain number of products or services, in exchange for a discount.
- One tactic is to come into the negotiation with a pre-written check; ask to buy the product or service for that amount, and tell them that's your final offer. They may accept it, since the lure of an immediate payment is hard to resist.
- Finally, paying in cash rather than with a check or credit card can be a useful negotiation tool because it reduces risk to the seller (e.g. check bouncing, credit card declined).
- Never give away without getting something in return. If you give something away "for free," you're implicitly telling the other person that you think your bargaining position is weak. Smart bargainers will smell blood and swarm you like sharks in water.[7]
- Ask for something that's valuable to you but doesn't cost them much. Having both parties feel like they're on the winning side of the negotiation is a good thing. And contrary to popular perception, negotiation doesn't have to be a zero-sum game. If you're smart, you can get creative with what you ask for.
- Let's say you're doing business with a winery, and they want to pay you $100 to perform there. You want $150. Why not suggest that they pay you $100 and give you a $75 bottle of wine? It's worth $75 to you because that's how much you'd have to pay to buy it, but it costs them much less to produce that bottle.
- Or, you can ask them for a 5% or 10% discount on all their wine. Assuming you buy wine regularly anyway, you'll save money, and they'll still make money from your purchases (just not as much).
- Offer or request extras. Can you sweeten the deal in any way, or ask for something to sweeten the deal? Extras or perks can be cheap to provide but push the deal closer to the "sweet" territory.
- Sometimes, but not always, offering lots of small incentives, as opposed to one larger incentive, can make it seem like you're giving away more when in fact you're not. Be aware of this, both in giving away incentives and in receiving them.
- Always hold back a closer or two. A closer is a fact or argument you can use when you sense the other side is close to a deal but needs that final push. If you are a broker and your client is going to buy this week whether this seller is willing or not, that is a great deal closer: your client has a time constraint that she'll want to meet, and you can persuade her why meeting that time constraint is important.[8]
- Don't let personal hangups sidetrack the negotiations. Too often, negotiations are sidetracked because one party takes an issue personally and doesn't let go it, reversing any progress made in the initial stages of the negotiation. Try not to take the process of negotiation personally, letting it offend your ego or your sense of worth. If the person you're negotiating with is rude, overly aggressive, or abusive, know that you can walk away at any time.
- Watch your body language - a skilled negotiator will pick up on non-verbal signals which may give away your true feelings.
- If they surprise you with a very appealing offer, don't let on that you expected something less favorable.
- Avoid soft exposing language when making your proposal. E.g. "the price is -about- £100" or "I'm looking for £100". Be firm in your proposals - "The price is £100." or "I'll give you £100."
- Never negotiate after receiving an unscheduled phone call. They're ready but you are not. State that you are not currently able to talk and ask to reschedule. This will give you time to plan ahead about responses to questions and to perform simple research.
- Preparation is 90% of negotiation. Gather as much information about the deal as you possibly can, evaluate all the key variables, and understand which concessions you can trade.
- Even when you are unsure, speak with authority, speaking louder than usual and giving the impression that you have done this many times before will close deals with people who are not experienced.
- Always carry out a thorough check on the negotiating partner. Gather enough information about them to give you an idea of their most possible acceptable offers. Build on that information while negotiating.
- If someone is totally unreasonable, don't negotiate. Tell them to keep you in mind if they come down in price (or whatever). Negotiating when they are way out of line starts you out at way too weak a position.
- Use tools to reduce miscommunication and increase transparency. Online tools, including simple graph creators can be very useful in negotiations.
[Edit]Warnings - Never talk about their figure or price, as this subconsciously validates it- always talk about your figure instead.
- Acrimony is a deal killer. People will refuse deals just because they are in a bad mood. This is why divorces drag on for years. Avoid hostility at all costs. Even if there has been hostility in the past, start each contact upbeat, positive, don't hold a grudge.
- If it is for a job, do not get too greedy or you will be fired - worse than the previous wage.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Bamboo Flute Posted: 22 May 2020 09:00 AM PDT Bamboo has long been used by indigenous cultures to make everything from tiki huts to watermills. Because the plant species is so versatile and strong, it can be used for almost anything. That includes instruments too. Today, it continues to be used for a variety for things such as flooring, material and even paper. But when it's carved properly, bamboo also makes beautiful music. [Edit]Preparing to Make the Flute - Gather supplies. To make a bamboo flute, you'll need a drill, a rotary tool such as a Dremel, and attachments for it. You'll also need a general purpose hand-held sander, masking tape, a saw, a ruler or measuring tape, and a box cutter or sharp knife. You should be able to find all of these items from the hardware store.
- Scour for bamboo. Of course, you'll need some bamboo as well, and you don't always have to buy it. Even if it is not a plant that is native to your area, sometimes you can find it growing on the side of the road because these plants tend to take root and flourish almost anywhere. However, if you are unable to find bamboo out in nature, head to your local hardware store and buy from there.
- Also, look in your local yellow pages. Carpet stores sometimes have bamboo flooring that comes in bamboo rods that you could use.[1]
- Choose a quality bamboo. When you're selecting bamboo, make sure that the diameter is between 3/4 inches and 7/8 inches. However, thin-walled bamboo about 1/8 inch-thick or so produces the best sound. Also, look for a good piece of seasoned bamboo that isn't cracked. It shouldn't be really flexible or have any visible cracks, rips, splinters or holes.[2]
- Make sure that the bamboo has at least one node -- a notch where it is solid inside instead of hollow like the other parts of the bamboo. It's usually marked by circular ridges that look like joints on the bamboo. One node at the end of the flute will become what is known as the "cork." The node should be smooth and without holes on the inside or the outside so that the flute has proper tone.[3]
[Edit]Preparing the Bamboo - Remove the branches on the bamboo. Use a hacksaw if necessary. You'll also want to sand down any notches left behind from where you cut off the bamboo. If you have one, use the hand sander to do this; it's much faster and easier than sanding by hand.
- The piece of bamboo that you selected might have several nodes. If it's a long piece of bamboo, select the part of the bamboo that you are going to work with and sand down that section so you don't sand the entire bamboo stem unnecessarily.
- Cut the pipe to the length you want based on the key. The length of the pipe determines the key that it plays. To make a flute that plays in the key of A, cut a 14 inch length of pipe. For an F flute, cut it to 18 inches, and for a key of D cut it to 21 inches. Choose a section of bamboo with joints that are a little bit more than half as far apart as the intended length of the instrument.
- For instance, if you want a 14 inch flute, the nodes should be a little more than 7 inches apart from each other. In other words, there should be a little more than 7 inches of tube between each node.
- The aim is to cut it so that there is a node at the end and another node more or less in the middle. You want the flute to have a node at one end and another more or less in the middle after you cut it to size. It should have at least one.
- Wrap a piece of masking tape around the area that you want to cut, then cut it with the hacksaw. The tape helps stop the bamboo from splintering.
- Cut outside of the node. Don't cut into it.
- Select the node that is to become the cork. Choose the part of the bamboo with the node near the end to be your cork. Then, measure 2 cm (0.78 inches) out from the node and mark it with a pencil. This area is will be known as the cork of the flute. The blow hole, which is formally known as the embouchure won't be placed far from it. Don't cut into this area.
- Check the node that you selected to be your cork again for holes. Because if it has holes in it, then it the flute's tone might not be proper.
- Knock out the solid nodes. As previously noted, the inner portion of the nodes are solid, not hollow like the rest of the pipe. So, you'll have to knock out all of the nodes except for the one near the end serving as your cork. You can use a hammer and chisel to do this. Stick the chisel or a sharp tool up against the node inside the tube, then hit the top of the tool with a hammer. You'll slow chisel it away.
- Another option is to burn out the nodes with a hot poker, but the safest option is most likely boring out the nodes with a long drill bit.
- Clean out the inside of the flute. Wrap sandpaper around a dowel rod about 20 inches long and tape the sandpaper to it. Then, rub the sandpaper against the inside of the bamboo to smooth the inside of the tube. Also, sand the places where the nodes were located so that it is as smooth as possible.
[Edit]Making the Flute - Measure the wall thickness. Now that the bamboo is open, you can see the thickness of the walls, which you'll need to know to calculate the diameter of the embouchure -- the blow as previously noted. Using your ruler, measure each one to the nearest millimeter and write down your measurements. Then, set them aside for later.
- Measure the exact placement of the embouchure. The embouchure should be one diameter up from the cork -- the node you selected at the end of the bamboo. For instance, if the width or diameter of the bamboo is 8 centimeters (3.1 inches), then you will measure 8 centimeters (3.1 inches) up from the cork. Then mark it, and this is where the center of the blow hole will be placed.
- The diameter is the length of a circle.
- Calculate the diameter of the embouchure. Now, you need to know how wide to make the blow hole because the width of the hole makes a difference with the sound of the flute. Use a flute calculator such as Flutomat to calculate the measurements for you.
- Input your measurements of the flute's inner diameter and wall thickness.Then, choose the key you want the flute to be in. If you cut your flute to a specific length for a specific key, you can skip this step if you want. The application will calculate the diameter for the embouchure and the other holes in the seven-note Western scale. Write down the diameters of each hole. [4]
- For instance, suppose the diameter of the blow hole is 10mm (0.393 inches), then according to the calculator, the diameter of the following finger holes 1-7 might be 8.0 mm(0.3149 inches), 8.5 mm (0.335), 9 mm (0.354 inches), 7 mm (0.275 inches) ,9.5mm (0.374 inches) ,10mm (0.393), 5.5mm (0.217 inches).
- Measure the length between the finger holes. Use the flute calculator, which also calculates the space between the edge of each hole and the open end of the flute. It gives the measurements based on each holes distance from the embouchure. So, mark where each hole should be to make sure that they will fit on your pole. Once, all your measurements seem correct and everything seems to fit on the bamboo, then you're ready to drill.
- Clamp the bamboo down and begin to drill the embouchure. Use wood clamps to clamp it down. Then, with the embouchure facing up, begin drilling with the 2mm (0.078 inches) drill bit where you made your mark for the first hole. Once you've made a small hole with the drill bit, increase to a larger drill bit like 8 mm (0.315 inches) . Steadily increase the size of the drill bit until you get to a bit larger enough to make the size of your holes. For instance, if your embouchure is 10 mm, increase your drill bits in increments until you get to a 10mm drill bit to make the hole that size.
- When you're drilling, hold the bit perpendicular to the bamboo with a steady hand. If you hold the drill at an angle or are unsteady as you drill, you might drill the bamboo improperly or splinter, crack or rip the bamboo. Be deliberate but careful as you drill.
- Sand the hole. Use a Dremel or a similar rotary tool to make the hole nice and smooth. Put a sanding attachment on the rotary tool. Use one of the attachments that has medium grit sandpaper. (Feel the paper to check. The rougher the sandpaper, the more gritty the sandpaper.) Gently sand the hole with medium grit and then a smoother sandpaper while being careful not to change the shape or size of the hole.
- Blow into the embouchure. You need to test it to make sure you get a familiar, mellow, "flute-like" tone. If you need to make adjustments, sand the outside edge of the embouchure with a sanding file at a downward slant, but only do this if you think it needs adjustment. If it sounds good to you, it's better to play it safe and not make any adjustments.
- Recheck your finger hole markings. Make sure that they are in the right place respective to the blowhole. The Flutomat calculator gives the space between each hold from the end of one hole to the end of the next hole. So, it doesn't give you the hole's center. You'll need to make your hole one radius up -- half the diameter-- of the hole. This is where the center of the hole will be and where you'll drill. Then, drill in the same manner that you drilled the blowhole.
- Make sure your holes are marked in a straight line.
- Drill in successively larger bits, which means start with the smaller bits to make a starter hole. Then, slowly increase to the larger bits to get to the size drill bit to make the appropriate size.
- Some parts of the bamboo and thinner than other such as where a branch was growing. So, be mindful of this when you're drilling.
- If you have to drill a hole over a node, this area will be thicker than other areas. Take your time and drill slowly.
- Clean up the insides of the holes. With your rotary tool, sand the edges of the hole so that they are smooth. If you are scared of making a mistakes or sanding too much, use the sanding file. They're also great for smaller holes. Once you've cleaned up the drill holes, you're ready to play.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Bamboo (inside diameter is 2 to 3 cm)
- A drill
- An assortment of drill bits ranging in diameter from 2mm to 1.5 cm
- A rotary tool like a Dremel
- Accessories for the rotary tool such as a cutting wheel and various sanding and grinding bits.
- A general purpose hand-held sander
- Sandpaper for the hand-held sander ranging from medium to fine
- A sharp knife or a box-cutter
- Masking tape
- Measuring tape/ruler or calipers ( optional)
- Marker or pen
- A ruler or masking tape
- 20 inch long dowel rod
- Sand paper long enough to wrap around dowel rod
- Sanding file (optional)
- Medium grit sandpaper
- Fine grit sandpaper(optional)
- Sand in one direction instead of back and forth to prevent splintering of the bamboo.
- Clamp down the bamboo well so that it doesn't move when you're drilling.
- Apply steady pressure when you're drilling so that your cuts are deliberate your limit splintering.
- Put masking tape of the places where you're going to drill to help prevent splintering and chipping when you're drilling.
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure the bamboo is secure when you're cutting it. If it shifts while you're cutting it, you could accidentally injure yourself or cut a secure of the bamboo that you didn't intend to cut.
- Be careful when you're cutting with the hacksaw. You don't want to injure yourself.
- If you are under 13 make sure that you have adult supervision if you are attempting this project.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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