| How to Press Flowers Posted: 23 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT Keep beautiful flowers for years by pressing them to preserve their vibrant colors and unique shapes. You can use pressed flowers as decorative additions to cards, journals, or scrapbooks, or you can display them in frames. There are several different ways you can press flowers, from a single-day process by ironing them to a weeks-long process by using heavy books or a wooden press. Whichever way you choose, you'll be able to enjoy pressed flowers for a long time to come. [Edit]Cutting and Preparing the Flowers - Choose fresh flowers that don't have any morning dew on them. Use flowers you got from a florist or the grocery store, or pick your own from a garden. If you do pick your own, cut them in the morning after the morning dew has evaporated and avoid picking them on rainy days—you want them to be as dry as possible. Flowers with flat blooms, like violets, daisies, and shrub roses, are the easiest to press, but you can also use thicker blooms, like peonies and orchids.[1]
- Avoid using really thick flowers, like impatiens and begonias. They're so thick that they generally start to get moldy before they actually dry out.
- Trim the stems to the size that you want for your project. This is totally up to you and what you want to use the flowers for. Keep in mind that you can always trim away more of the stem after the flowers have been pressed, but you can't add more length to them once they've been cut.[2]
- If you're mainly interested in preserving the actual bloom, trim the stem down to .
- Remove low-hanging or scraggly leaves that remain on the stem. Use a pair of sharp scissors to trim away the leaves as close to the stem as possible rather than just plucking them off. If you want, leave a few leaves in place for the aesthetic.[3]
- If you aren't sure which look you prefer, try drying one flower that has a few leaves left on the stem along with one flower that has been completely trimmed.
- Cut thick flowers in half so they can be dried flat. Orchids, peonies, and roses are notoriously hard to press because they are so thick. Use a pair of scissors or a sharp knife to cut the bloom and stem in half lengthwise. Lay the flower down on a flat surface and cut away half of the bloom, using a motion similar to how you would cut an apple in half. Do your best to cut the stem in half equally, too. If you make an even enough cut, you could use both sides of the flower in your pressing.[4]
- It's okay if the actual cut doesn't look perfect or if there are little bits of petals left on the backside of the flower. Those imperfections won't be visible after the flower has been pressed.
- Store flowers you aren't ready to use in the fridge for 2-3 days. If you prep your flowers and realize you aren't ready to start pressing them for whatever reason, keep them fresh in the fridge. Put them into a plastic, resealable bag.[5]
- This also comes in handy if you find flowers you want to press while you're traveling. You can keep them in the fridge until you go back home.
- If you don't have access to a fridge, keep them in a cooler or somewhere similar to try and preserve them until you can press them.
[Edit]Using Heavy Books - Place the prepared flowers between 2 sheets of parchment paper. The parchment paper is used to absorb excess moisture from the flowers as they dry out. Arrange the flowers so that none of their petals, leaves, or stems overlap.[6]
- If you don't have parchment paper, you could also use coffee filters to the same effect.
- Set the sheets between the pages of a heavy book. Use a book that is large enough to completely cover the flowers. If there are ends sticking out from the pages of the book, they won't get pressed. Put the flowers toward the back of the book so that the bulk of the book's weight will rest on top of the flowers.[7]
- Make sure to choose a book that you won't need to use over the next several weeks.
- Stack on 2 to 3 more books to provide extra weight. Again, choose heavy books to provide the most weight. Stack them somewhere they won't get knocked into easily.[8]
- You could also use bricks instead of books for the same effect.
- Leave the flowers alone for 1 to 2 weeks to allow them to dry out fully. Set a reminder on your calendar to check the flowers after a few weeks have passed to see if they're done. They should feel like fine tissue paper. If they aren't done yet, carefully shut them back into the book for another week to continue pressing them.[9]
- It takes less time to press flowers with heavy books than if you were to use a wooden flower press because there is considerably more weight being applied from the books.
[Edit]Making a Wooden Flower Press - Buy or cut two pieces of wood. Making your own flower press doesn't take a long time and gives you a designated press so you won't have to scrounge around trying to find heavy books or bricks. Each piece of wood should be thick. You can use plywood or other scraps of wood.[10]
- If you visit your local home improvement store, you may be able to find scraps of wood for sale that can be used for your press.
- If you are cutting your own pieces of wood, you can make your press any shape or size that you want. Some people prefer round presses, while some want a smaller or bigger press, depending on how many flowers they need to dry at one time. A press can hold anywhere from 10-20 blooms, just depending on what kinds of flowers you are pressing.
- Place the prepared flowers between 2 pieces of parchment paper. Arrange your flowers on a piece of parchment paper so that they aren't overlapping at all. Set another piece of parchment paper over the top of the flowers and press down lightly with your hands.[11]
- Sandwich the parchment paper between 2 pieces of cardboard. Use pieces of cardboard that are at least as big, if not bigger, than the pieces of parchment paper. Choose clean, dry cardboard to prevent introducing any unneeded dampness or bacteria to your flowers.[12]
- The cardboard just helps provide another semi-absorbent layer for the flowers. Because this method takes about a month to complete, it's important that all the moisture from the flowers has somewhere else to go so they dry completely.
- Put the cardboard between the 2 pieces of wood. Arrange the wood so that the corners line up as perfectly as possible. If you need to reposition one of them, lift it up and set it back down rather than moving it while it's in contact with the cardboard, as this could shift the flowers underneath and ruin their positioning.[13]
- Secure each corner of the press together with a c-clamp. With c-clamps, one side of the clamp stays stationary and the other side can be adjusted by turning the handle to move the screw up or down. Open each clamp wide enough to fit the pieces of wood. Start by positioning one clamp over a corner of the press. Adjust the screw mechanism to bring the sides of the clamp together as tight as possible. Repeat this with the other 3 clamps.[14]
- Visit your local home improvement store or shop online for your c-clamps. You don't need to get anything fancy, so you should be able to find these clamps for about $5 a piece.
- If you bought a wooden press rather than making one yourself, there should be bolts for you to utilize rather than having to use clamps.
- Let the flowers dry for about 30 days. Resist undoing the press and checking on your flowers until at least 3 weeks have passed. If you do, it could disturb the flowers and make it hard to get them back into the same position so that they dry perfectly. To be safe, wait 30 days before opening the clamps and removing the flowers.[15]
- If you have more flowers you want to press in the meantime, use a second press or one of the other pressing methods so you don't disturb the ones that are in process.
- This is one of the more time-intensive methods because it doesn't use much weight or heat to press the flowers. If you want to speed up the pressing time, add a few bricks or books on top of the wood.
[Edit]Heating the Flowers with an Iron - Flatten the flowers with a heavy book to start the pressing process. While you're getting the rest of your supplies ready, simply set the prepared flowers underneath a large book. This will make it easier to iron because they won't be as thick as they were when you cut them.[16]
- You could do this 1 to 2 days in advance, or just 10 minutes before ironing. The more time the flower has to flatten, the easier it'll be to iron. Use sheets of parchment paper between the book and flowers if you're concerned about the book being exposed to moisture.
- Empty all water from your iron and turn it on to the lowest setting. The last thing you want when ironing your flowers is any kind of moisture or steam, so take a minute to empty out the water tank and don't refill it. Plug in the iron and switch the setting to the lowest, driest heat setting available.[17]
- You may be tempted to use higher heat to make the process go even faster, but high heat could burn the flowers and turn them brown, making them lose their beautiful color.
- Put the flowers between 2 pieces of parchment paper on the ironing board. Get your ironing station set up and put a piece of parchment paper down on top of it. Arrange the flowers so that they aren't overlapping at all; otherwise, they could adhere together. Set another piece of parchment paper on top of the flowers.[18]
- Avoid moving the paper once it is in place so the flowers don't shift at all.
- Hold the iron down on top of the flowers for 10 seconds. Simply hold the iron still rather than moving it back and forth like you would if you were ironing a garment. If the parchment paper is larger than the iron, work in sections by lifting the iron up and then setting it back down on the next part that needs to be ironed.[19]
- If you leave the iron on the flowers for too long, they will burn, so make sure to count the time and remove the iron after 10 to 15 seconds at the most.
- Let the paper cool completely before you repeat the ironing process. Remove the iron after 10 seconds and let the parchment paper cool off for 15 to 20 seconds, or just until it is cool to the touch. This will help prevent the flowers from burning from accidentally being exposed to the heat for too long.[20]
- Iron the flowers in 10-second increments until all the moisture is gone. It shouldn't take more than 5 minutes total to press your flowers unless you're using really thick blooms, like peonies or orchids. To check the flowers, gently lift the top sheet of parchment paper and touch the blooms. If they feel papery thin and dry, they're done! If they are still retaining moisture, keep ironing them.[21]
- Don't forget to unplug the iron when you're done and refill the water tank so it's ready to go the next time you need to use it on your clothes.
[Edit]Displaying Pressed Flowers in a Glass Frame - Assemble a collection of pressed flowers that you'd like to display. This can be any combination of flowers and greenery that you think look nice together. For a minimalistic look, you could choose just a few special blooms to use. If you'd like something that looks more plentiful, use upwards of 10 to 15 flowers (or more!) for your frame.[22]
- Don't be afraid to mix-and-match colors and types of flowers.
- Wipe down the glass frame to remove any fingerprints or smudges. Before you add any flowers to the frame, clean the glass inside and outside so that you start your project with a clean slate. Use a window or glass cleaner and a soft microfiber towel so that there is no lint left behind.[23]
- For this project, you can use a glass frame that hangs or that can be propped up, just depending on where you'd like to put it once it's done.
- You can buy glass frames online, from your local art supplies store, or from a lot of home goods stores, too.
- Arrange the flowers before attaching them to the glass. Play around with the placement of the flowers before using the tape to adhere them to the frame. You could arrange them from largest to smallest, in rows, or without any order at all.[24]
- If needed, use scissors to trim stems or cut a flower down to the right size.
- Some people like to add a piece of patterned scrapbook paper to the frame to act as a background for the flowers. You can do this if you want, or you can leave the glass frame as it is so it's see-through.
- Use small pieces of double-sided tape to attach the flowers to the glass. Once you know where you'd like each bloom to be, stick a really small piece of double-sided tape to the back of each bloom and press it firmly, but gently, into place on the glass. The bigger the flower, the bigger the piece of tape you can use; try to not use so much that the tape is visible when you're looking down at the flower, though.[25]
- If you're having trouble ripping off small enough pieces of tape, use scissors to cut a longer piece of tape into small sections.
- Close the frame and hang it up to enjoy your handiwork. After all the flowers are secured into place, you're almost finished! Simply secure the two sides of the frame together, and then either hang it up, display it on a desk or table, or give it away as a gift.[26]
- This is a great way to make a keepsake for yourself or someone else.
- For a really quick flower pressing process, buy a special microwave press online.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Cutting and Preparing the Flowers - Sharp scissors
- Airtight bag (optional)
[Edit]Using Heavy Books - Parchment paper
- 3 to 4 heavy books
- Tweezers
[Edit]Making a Wooden Flower Press - 2 pieces of wood
- Parchment paper
- Cardboard
- 4 c-clamps
[Edit]Heating the Flowers with an Iron - Heavy book
- Iron
- Ironing board
- Parchment paper
[Edit]Displaying Pressed Flowers in a Glass Frame - Pressed flowers
- Double-sided tape
- Scissors
- Glass picture frame
- Glass cleaner
- Microfiber towel
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Bee Trap Posted: 22 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT Bees and wasps are an important part of nature, but when these little critters are attracted to the sweet and savory foods in your home they can be a pest. If a colony has nested near your home, call a local bee removal company, but in the meantime, homemade bee traps made of 2-liter bottles will help manage bees and wasps that find their way into your home.[1] Carpenter bees, which bore holes into the wood of homes, will require a wooden trap with an attached mason jar base. [Edit]Using a 2-liter Soda Bottle - Cut away the top third of a clean 2-liter soda bottle. Remove the cap. Use a utility knife to cut off the top of the bottle slightly below where the neck straightens. To cut an even line, wrap a piece of masking tape around the bottle to mark where you'll cut.[2]
- Invert the bottle top to nest it in the bottle bottom. Hold the bottle top so the capless end is facing downward. Insert this into the bottle bottom. Hold the bottle top in place at the top of the bottle bottom with your fingers. Staple the top to the bottom on four opposing sides.
- If you don't have a stapler, tape the seam between the inverted bottle top and the bottle bottom instead.[3]
- If you want to reuse your traps, fasten the bottle top and bottom with clothespins. You only need to unfasten the clothespins to clean, empty, and refill your 2-liter bottle trap.[4]
- Drill holes and add cord to make a hanging trap. Drill two holes an inch (2.5 cm) below the top of the trap, with each hole on opposite sides of the bottle. Use a drill bit large enough to allow your cord to pass through. Feed one end apiece of a length of cord into the two holes holes. Knot the ends of the cord and it's ready to hang.[5]
- Use honey or sugar water as bait. Pour honey or sugar water directly into the bottom of the trap. You don't need much; a thin layer will be enough to attract bees. Bees will be attracted to the sweetness and won't be able to escape, eventually dying in the trap.[6]
- Save the lives of bees by only using honey or sugar water. When you see a bee trapped inside, take it away from your home and carefully release it.[7]
- Poison bees with laundry soap. To ensure bees that enter your trap don't make it out alive, add a tablespoon (15 ml) of liquid laundry soap to your bait. Distribute the soap throughout the bait by stirring it with a utensil. The soap will poison and kill all bees that ingest it.[8]
- Position your traps near bee access points. Placing your traps too close to bee access points may actually draw more indoors. Prioritize locations in the sun. Sunlight will make the bait more effective and also cause bees to die in the trap faster.
- Hanging traps tend to attract bees better than ground traps. Ground traps, however, can be effective guarding window access points.[9]
- Check traps every two weeks. If you've fastened your bottle top and bottom with staples, you'll either need to remove the staples to clean and refill the trap or make a new one. Otherwise, remove the tape or clothespins, dump the contents of the trap, rinse it, and refill it with honey or sugar water.
- These traps will attract many kinds of insects, including ants. Use natural methods to prevent and remove ants.[10]
[Edit]Building a Mason Jar Carpenter Bee Trap - Mark a 45° angle on the 4x4 post. Lay your post flat on its long side. Use your square to draw a 45° angle from one corner of the post until the line ends at the opposite side edge. The angle, when cut, will form two edges about 7 in (17.8 cm) long and two that are about 4 in (10.2 cm) long.[11]
- Cut the post along the marked angle. Position your post somewhere it will be safe to cut with a saw. For example, you might clamp the unmarked edge to a workbench or scrap wood so you can cut the marked edge more easily. Cut the post along the marked angle with your circular saw.[12]
- Use caution when operating a saw. Improper usage can result in serious injury. Always wear safety glasses and a face mask.
- Substitute a hand saw for a circular saw. However, cutting with a hand saw will take longer and require more effort.
- Cut the opposite side of the post to finish incomplete cuts, if necessary. The blade of some saws might not extend all the way through the post. In this situation, turn the post over and mark the same angle on the opposite side. Cut the angle on the opposite side to finish the incomplete cut.
- Drill a hole in the flat bottom of the post.[13] Orient the flat bottom of your post, which is opposite the angled top, upwards. Use a tape measure and a pencil to mark the center of the flat bottom of the post. Use a 7/8-inch bit to drill a 4-inch (10.2 cm) deep hole at this center mark.[14]
- Drill the hole on a straight up and down angle with respect to the flat bottom of the carpenter bee trap.
- If you're a poor estimator of distance, measure the length of your drill bit and note the point it is about 4 in (10.2 cm) long. Drill to this point.[15]
- Mark entry holes on the four sides of the post. Each of the four sides will need a hole to make your trap most efficient. Use a tape measure and pencil to mark one hole on each side. Each hole should be 2 in (5 cm) from the bottom edge and ¾ in (1.9 cm) from side edges.[16]
- Drill side entry holes upward on a 45° angle.[17] Hold your square beside the hole to help you judge the angle. 45° is halfway between horizontal (flat) and vertical (up and down). Position your drill parallel to this angle and drill upward until the hole connects with the hole drilled in the bottom.[18]
- Drill holes in this fashion at each of the marked points on the four sides of your post. All holes should connect with the straight hole drilled in the center of the post's flat bottom.
- The angle for your side entry holes doesn't have to be perfect. For quick, easy, and accurate angled holes, use a pocket jig as a guide. Pocket jigs can be bought at hardware stores.[19]
[Edit]Attaching the Mason Jar Base - Mark the lid of your mason jar with a permanent marker. Remove the flat part of the mason jar from the circular threaded part that fastens it. Measure and mark the center point of the lid. Divide the distance between the middle point and the outer edge in half on both sides. Mark these two points as well.[20]
- The resulting three marks should form a straight line. The first mark will be the center of the lid, and the other two will be halfway between the center mark and the lid's outer edge.
- Punch holes into your lid. Position your punch on top of one of the marks. Swing a hammer with firm, moderate force and hit the end of the punch to drive its tip through the metal at your mark. Repeat this for the two remaining marks.
- Place the lid on a piece of scrap wood or heavy metal to prevent the punch from damaging your work surface.[21]
- Drill a hole in the center of the mason jar lid. Turn the lid over so the punched side is facing downwards. Drill a hole at the center punch with a ½-in metal drill bit. This will create metal shavings, which can be sharp. Dispose metal shavings in the garbage.[22]
- Drilling your center hole may have created metal burrs. Prevent cuts from these by removing them with a file.
- Attach the assembled jar lid onto the bottom of the post. Fit the lid into its circular, threaded part. Align the hole in the center of the lid with the hole in the flat bottom of the post. Attach the lid by fastening it to the post with a screw in each of the two remaining punched lid holes.[23]
- Add an eye screw on top and hang your trap. Measure and mark the center point of the angled top of your carpenter bee trap. Drill a screw hole here for your eye hook. Insert the eye hook, screw the glass jar into the attached lid mount, and hang it to trap and kill carpenter bees.[24]
- Hang traps close to active bee holes. Carpenter bees will be attracted to the holes in your trap and crawl inside it to lay eggs. However, the 45° angle of the entry tunnels will confuse the bees, drawing them into the glass jar where they can't escape.
- Close up carpenter bee holes while they're away with caulk, wooden dowels, or specialized carpenter bee killing foam.
- Closed nesting holes will force carpenter bees to look for the most convenient new home, like your carpenter bee trap.[25]
[Edit]Warnings - Bee allergies can be quite serious. If you are allergic, keep medicine, like an EpiPen, close at hand in case of stings.
- Although generally passive, bee swarms can be very dangerous when agitated. When working near or installing traps close to nesting locations, wait until night when bees aren't active. Avoid using flashlights or lanterns; light will attract bees.
- Improper usage of tools could result in serious or permanent injury, especially for power tools like a circular saw.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]2-liter Soda Bottle Trap - 2-liter soda bottle (clean)
- Cordage (like paracord or nylon rope)
- Dish soap (optional)
- Drill (with drill bits)
- Honey (or sugar water)
- Masking tape (optional)
- Stapler (or clothespins)
- Utility knife
[Edit]Carpenter Bee Trap - ½″ metal bit
- ½″ wood bit
- 7" (17.8 cm) long 4×4 post
- 7/8″ wood bit
- Circular saw (or a hand saw)
- Clamp (optional)
- Drill
- Eye hook
- File (optional)
- Hammer
- Mason jar (half pint or regular pint)
- Pencil
- Punch
- Screw driver
- Square
- Tape measure
- Wood screws
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Harvest Rhubarb Posted: 22 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT One of the few perennial vegetables, rhubarb grows back year after year if cared for properly. The beautiful veggie, whose color can range from pale pink to deep maroon, is full of flavor and sweetness, similar to a fruit. Harvest it during the spring and summer months to use in pies, baked goods, chutneys, and more. [Edit]Harvesting at the Right Time - Wait at least 1 year before picking stalks from a rhubarb plant. It is important not to pull any stalks in the plant's first year of growth. It will weaken the young rhubarb plant. Allow each rhubarb plant to establish a strong root system the first year and leave the stalks intact. Start harvesting during the plant's second season.[1]
- If the plant looks very healthy, you can harvest 1 to 2 stalks during its first year. But this is an exception.
- A rhubarb plant can produce stalks for up to 20 years.
- Expect to get about of stalks from a mature plant each season.
- Harvest rhubarb from late spring through the middle of summer. Prime rhubarb season is April to June. A good rule of thumb is to pick your rhubarb no later than July 4. The harvesting period typically lasts about 8 to 10 weeks.[2]
- Rhubarb plants are dormant during the fall and winter.
- If you try to harvest your rhubarb too late, the stalks might get frost damage and be inedible.
- Check for stalks that are between wide. A ripe stalk should be about the width of your finger. Leave thinner stalks on the plant to continue growing.[3]
- Stalks that are too thick will be chewy and tough.
- Don't harvest from a plant whose stalks are very thin. That's a sign the plant is underfed and weak.[4]
- Make sure the stalks are at least long. The longer the stalk, the more flavorful it will be. And while is the minimum length before harvesting, stalks that are between long are the most delicious.[5]
- This measurement should only include the stalk itself, not the leaves.
- Run your hand along the length of the stalk. If it's crisp and firm, it's ready to pick.
- Avoid judging a rhubarb plant's ripeness by its color. Contrary to popular belief, how red or vibrant the stalks are does not determine how ripe the plant is. Not all rhubarb is a deep red hue. Some varieties of rhubarb are paler shades of red or even green when they're ready to be picked.[6]
- Turkish and Riverside Giant are 2 common green varieties of rhubarb.
[Edit]Picking Rhubarb - Twist and pull the stalks as close as possible to the base of the plant. Rhubarb stalks should always be twisted clean from the crown, as twisting or pulling invigorates the roots to produce more. Pull gently, while twisting the stalk to ensure it comes away neatly.[7]
- If a stalk is difficult to remove, use a gardening shovel or shears to carefully cut it at the base.
- Make sure not to cut or damage the central bulb of the plant which can stunt its growth.
- Collect only a third of the stalks per plant each season. This avoids over-stressing the rhubarb plant. Always keep at least 2 stalks on a plant to encourage it to produce again in the next season.[8]
- For example, if it's the plant's second season and there are 7 stalks, pick 2 stalks, leaving about 5 healthy stalks to continue growing.
- In a plant's third season and later, you can remove 3 to 4 stalks per plant, since there will be more stalks on the plant.
- Pull or cut the leaves from the stalk and discard them. The leaves contain oxalic acid, which is poisonous and should not be eaten. Remove the leaves with your fingers or use a knife or kitchen scissors to carefully cut them off the stalk. Then throw them away or add them to the compost.[9]
- Leaving the leaves attached dries out the stalks and causes them to wilt faster.
- Make a rhubarb spray from the leaves to keep the pests off plants in your garden like broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts.
- Do not feed the leaves to animals either!
- Tidy the plant by removing broken or flowering stalks from the base. Never leave any broken stalks on the rhubarb plant as these can cause infections to grow. Either eat the pieces or discard them.
- Remove any flowering stalks, too. This allows the plant to focus on growing healthier stalks instead of flowers.[10]
- Trim off leaves that are wilted or eaten by insects so they don't affect the rest of the plant.
[Edit]Storing Your Rhubarb - Wrap the rhubarb stalks loosely in aluminum foil. Lay the rhubarb along a sheet of aluminum foil and fold the edges over the stalks. Don't seal the edges completely. Leave a small space for air to get in and out.[11]
- Tightly wrapping the stalks traps in moisture and ethylene (a hormone that ripens vegetables) so your rhubarb will go bad faster.[12]
- Don't wash the rhubarb until you're ready to eat it.
- Place the wrapped rhubarb in the fridge for 2 to 4 weeks. The best spot in the fridge for your rhubarb is the vegetable crisper drawer because it has the highest humidity. It won't dry out the stalks. After 1 month or if you notice moldy spots, toss any uneaten rhubarb.[13]
- Freeze the rhubarb for up to 1 year if you aren't using it right away. To freeze the rhubarb properly, first rinse it and pat it dry with a paper towel. Then chop the rhubarb into small pieces and put them in an airtight container or resealable freezer bag. Place the container in the freezer to use within 1 year.[14]
- If you're using a freezer bag, remove any excess air before sealing it shut.
- Label your container or bag with the date and the contents using a permanent marker.
- Frozen rhubarb is great for smoothies or baking.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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