| How to Stretch Your Lower Back with a Pull Up Bar Posted: 12 Jul 2020 01:00 AM PDT The muscles in your lower back can be tough to target with ordinary stretches. Luckily, one common yet invaluable piece of fitness equipment can take the difficulty out of your stretching routine—a pull up bar. Simply hanging from a bar or similar surface for a few seconds at a time does a fantastic job of decompressing the spine, improving circulation and mobility in surrounding tissues, and providing much-needed relief to tight, achy muscles. [Edit]Performing a Basic Hanging Decompression - Find a pull up bar. This should be no problem if you have a gym membership. If not, canvass your local parks, playgrounds, and outdoor recreation areas. You'll often find pull up bars and other exercise equipment at these places.[1]
- Another option is to invest in a portable doorway pull up bar. These are designed to be mounted in any standard-sized door frame, which makes them extremely versatile. You can pick one up for as little as $30-40 at most sporting goods stores.[2]
- If you don't have any luck tracking down a proper pull up bar, look for another surface to hang on. It could be a sturdy pipe, a slender tree branch, the top post of a swingset or soccer goal, or even a low ledge with lots of open space underneath.[3]
- Reach straight overhead and grab the bar with both hands. Keep your arms shoulder-width apart or just slightly wider. To ensure a stronger connection with the bar, hook your fingers over the top of the bar rather than trying to cup it with your palms. Take a moment to confirm that your grip is nice and secure before you continue.[4]
- You can either complete your grip by tucking your thumbs under like you're making a fist or leave them out to the sides of your index fingers. Go with whichever position feels more natural for you.
- It may be a good idea to pull on a pair of gloves to protect your hands if the bar or surface you're using is rough, rusted, or full of splinters.[5]
- Lower your weight gradually until you're in a full hang. Start by moving your center of gravity downwards to put some tension into your arms, which should be completely straight. Then, when you're ready, continue sinking little by little until all or most of your bodyweight is supported by your arms.[6]
- If you need to, you can let your toes or feet rest on the ground for some added assistance.[7]
- Don't drop into the hang too suddenly. Doing so could give you an unpleasant jolt or even put you at risk of injuring one or both shoulders.
- Hang in a relaxed position for 10-30 seconds. This should be enough time to elongate your spine and allow your individual vertebrae to decompress without totally exhausting you. While you're hanging, focus on releasing any tightness you might be holding in your core. It may take a few seconds to really loosen up, but once you do, you'll begin to feel relief immediately.[8]
- Face forward and square your hips to make sure your spine stays in alignment. Your back should form a perfectly straight line throughout the stretch.
- If you don't have a good way to time yourself, just count off 5-10 slow, deep breaths while concentrating on softening your midsection.
- As your strength improves, you can start increasing your hang time for a more thorough stretch.
- Repeat the exercise 4-6 times with a one-minute break in between each round. An extended rest period will give your arm muscles a chance to recover prior to the next interval. After a few rounds, you should be able to feel a significant improvement in both your upper and lower back.[9]
- Feel free to perform this exercise 2-3 times throughout the day, or as often as you feel like you need to.
- There's evidence to suggest that spinal decompression may help to alleviate mild-to-moderate lower back pain and enhance overall mobility.[10]
[Edit]Adding a Twist for a Deeper Stretch - Find a bar low enough to let you keep your toes on the ground while you hang. You'll need to hold the twist a little longer than you did the normal hang in order to make it as effective as possible. For this reason, it's important to make sure that the bar you're using allows you to remain in contact with the floor so you can use your legs to bear a portion of your weight.[11]
- If you're at the gym, slide an aerobic step or a set of risers or yoga blocks under your feet to elevate yourself.
- Not only will it be much harder for you to maintain the twist in a full hang, but your arms will also be much more likely to fatigue faster, forcing you to drop before you get the full benefit of the stretch.
- Relax your body beneath your shoulders to initiate the hang. When you're ready, straighten your arms and bend at the hips and knees until your arms are supporting 60-70% of your weight. You should feel firmly rooted but still be able to move your feet easily.[12]
- Remember to keep your upper arm, shoulder, and back muscles engaged to avoid stressing your shoulder joints.[13]
- Cross one leg in front of the other and rotate your trunk as far as you can. Swivel your lower body so that one of your legs is in front of you and the other is behind you. Set your legs down about apart and stay poised on the balls of your feet or your tip-toes to minimize your contact with the ground.[14]
- If you're especially flexible, aim to get your legs 45-degree angle with your torso to intensify the stretch.
- Adjusting your lower body could make you feel slightly unsteady, so be careful not to lose your grip on the bar.
- Hold the twist for up to 2 minutes. If it's your first time doing a hanging twist, start with 5-10 seconds and work your way up from there. Your lower back is full of large muscles that play an important role in stabilizing your body, like the lats, internal obliques, gluteus medius, and spinal erectors, so the longer you hold the stretch, the more you'll get out of it.[15]
- Don't forget to keep up a natural breathing pattern the entire time you're locked into the stretch.[16]
- If your arms start to tire out before you reach your targeted time, simply shift more of your weight to your legs.
- Switch your stance and complete the stretch on the opposite side. Once you're done stretching your first side, swivel your hips over the other way, plant your feet, and reset your timer. Try to hold the stretch for the same length of time on your second side. Afterwards, your back should feel rejuvenated and ready to go![17]
- You can repeat this stretch up to 2-3 times per side, if you like. You may not feel the need to, however, if you opted to hold it for longer than about half a minute on each side.
- This can also make an excellent mobility drill to add to your warm up routine.[18]
- Try to get in the habit of decompressing your spine at least once every couple of days whenever you have some extra time. Your body will thank you for it!
- Regular safe stretching can do wonders for the health of your spine (and therefore your all-around health), especially if you have poor posture or do a lot of sitting throughout the day.
- Online resources like Calisthenics Parks can point you towards outdoor recreation areas that offer pull up bars near you.[19]
[Edit]Warnings - If you have a history of back or shoulder problems, consult your doctor before you attempt either of the stretches described here. They could just end up making your discomfort worse.
- Be careful not to let your body rotate while performing an unsupported hanging decompression, as this could potentially place your vertebrae in a compromised position.
- Note that doorway pull up bars are typically only rated to support between and .
- Avoid hanging on anything that looks unstable or easily breakable. If you're not certain that it can hold you, you're probably better off finding a safer alternative.
[Edit]References |
| How to Make an Electric Race Car Posted: 11 Jul 2020 05:00 PM PDT Have you ever sped around a track in a go-kart? What if you could make your own tiny electric go-kart and send imaginary riders on a wild race? With a few simple parts, like a button battery, a small motor, and the head of a toothbrush, you can do just that! Once you've built your electric racer, make a track for it out of popsicle sticks and see how fast it can go. [Edit]Building Your Car - Stick the double-sided tape on the back of the brush head. Peel the paper backing off of one side of your double-sided tape. Stick it onto the back of the toothbrush head, opposite the bristles.
- Leave a little space behind the tape, where the narrow cut-off stem of the toothbrush starts. You'll need this space for the spinner on your motor.
- Attach the motor to the double-sided tape. Peel the backing off of the top side of the double-sided tape. Push your motor onto it so that the spinner faces the back of the brush (where the handle used to be) and the wires face the front.
- Test the spinner on the back of the motor by turning it with your finger. Make sure it can move freely, since it will need to spin for your car to work!
- Bend the red wire and stick it onto the tape. Take the red wire on the motor and bend it into a semi-circle. Push the metal tip of the wire onto the tape in front of the motor so it sticks.
- Don't push the wire in so hard that it sticks deep in the tape. Otherwise, it might not be able to make good contact with the battery.
- Push the battery onto the tape on top of the red wire. Take your button battery and stick it on the piece of tape so that the "+" side faces up. Make sure the metal end of the wire is underneath the battery.
- Leave a gap between the battery and the front end of the motor.
- Touch the blue wire to the battery to test the motor. Take the metal end of the blue wire and touch it to the top of the battery. The spinner on the motor should start to spin and make your toothbrush vibrate!
- If the motor doesn't start spinning, make sure the red wire is making good contact with the underside of the battery.
- You can also double check to make sure the spinner isn't sticking to the tape.
[Edit]Testing It Out - Set the car down on a flat surface. Now it's time to see how your car runs! Put it down on a flat, smooth surface, like a table or a hard floor. Make sure the bristles on the toothbrush are facing down.
- Your car may not move very well on a soft or bumpy surface, like a carpet or a blanket.
- Push the blue wire against the battery to make your car go. Touch the wire to the battery and see what happens. Does the wire stay in place when you let your car go? Does your car move around? Does it stay upright?
- Add pipe cleaners to help your car work better. Now that you've tested your car, think about ways you can improve its performance. Grab the pipe cleaners that came with your kit. Try fitting them into the space between the motor and the battery.
- Can you use them to help your car balance better? How?
- Can they help hold the blue wire in place?
- Keep testing the car until it works the way you want it to!
[Edit]Designing a Track - Make 2 guardrails using popsicle sticks and clay. Grab a popsicle stick and make 2 small balls of clay. Stick a piece of clay on the edge of the popsicle stick next to each end. Set it down so that it stands up on its side like a railing or fence, with the clay balls supporting it. Get another popsicle stick and do the same thing.
- If your rails don't stand up, squish the bottoms of the clay balls a little bit to create a flat base.
- Set the rails side by side to create a path for your car. Put the 2 guardrails down next to each other so that they're parallel (both facing the same way). Make sure there's enough room in between them for your mini racecar to go through!
- Release your car at the entrance of the path and watch what happens. Turn on your racecar and put it at the start of the path you made with the popsicle stick guardrails. What does the car do? Does it follow the path?
- Does your car travel differently when it's between the railings than it does when you let it run loose?
- Add more popsicle sticks to make a longer track. Build more guardrails and put them together to make a nice, long track for your race car. Get creative and make the track any shape you want!
- Try adding some turns to your track. What happens when your car comes to a turn?
- Use a stopwatch or a watch that shows seconds to time how long it takes your car to complete the track.
- Project Completed! Test out your new electric race car.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Bristle Bot Kit
- Toothbrush head
- Double-sided tape
- Motor
- Button battery
- Pipe cleaners
- 30 popsicle sticks
- Model Magic clay
[Edit]References |
| How to Fix a Punching Bag Posted: 11 Jul 2020 09:00 AM PDT Punching bags can withstand a lot, but even the best ones don't last forever. Tears form, straps break, and even the filling inside your bag will wear out if you hit it enough. Instead of spending a lot of money on a new bag, you can find some clever ways to fix your old one. Most rips are pretty easy to fix even if you don't know how to sew. You can also soften up a bag by refilling it with fresh stuffing. Take care of your punching bag to get right back into your workout routine. [Edit]Repairing Tears with Tape - Trim the frayed edges around the rip with scissors. Pull the torn flaps back gently, then inspect them for any loose threads. Trim them so they look as neat as they possibly can. When you're done, flatten them against the bag again unless you have some stuffing to put back in first.[1]
- You won't have to take the punching bag down to repair it, but you can if the tears are difficult to reach.
- Tuck any loose stuffing back inside the bag. Pull back the torn portion, then push the stuffing back inside. Make sure the bag's outer surface is level and consistent before making any repairs. If it doesn't seem right now, then it most likely won't be too fun to hit later.
- If you lost some of the stuffing, you can always replace it. They are usually filled with rags, so fill them with something similar, like old clothing.
- When your punching bag loses stuffing, it won't be as soft on your hands. The extra stress on your fingers and wrist increases the chance of injury.
- Clean the bag with soap and water to remove debris. Mix together about of hot water and of dish soap. Give the torn part a good scrubbing with a sponge dampened in the soapy water. If you haven't cleaned it in a while, you can also wipe down the rest of the bag.[2]
- Vinegar is also an effective cleaner. Substitute of it in place of the dish soap, for instance.
- If you have a leather bag, you could use a leather cleaner instead to protect it from moisture damage.
- Wash the bag off with a damp rag to remove the soap. Dampen a cloth or sponge lightly in warm water, then squeeze out the excess moisture before using it on the bag. Make sure you get all of the soap and any remaining debris around the flap. When you're done, wipe it dry before starting the repair.[3]
- The tape won't stick very well if the bag is dirty or damp, so take plenty of time getting it clean.
- Place overlapping strips of duct tape vertically over the hole. Cut the first length of duct tape so it overlaps the hole by on both ends. Fit it along the left or right edges of the tear. Then, place the next strip, overlapping the first one halfway. Keep placing new strips this way until the hole is covered.[4]
- Overlapping the strips makes the repair stronger. The tape should create a strong webbing without any gaps in it. That way, it won't fall right back apart the next time you hit it.
- Set strips of duct tape horizontally over the edges of the repair. Cut the strips so they are long enough to stretch across the web of tape you made earlier. Fit them along the top and bottom edges of the tear. Position them so they overlap the existing straps halfway. They are meant to lock the repair in place, keeping the vertical webbing stuck to the bag.[5]
- Apply athletic tape horizontally across the repair to seal it. Cut strips of tape that are long enough to cover the duct tape. Fit the first strip over one of the pieces of duct tape you laid horizontally earlier. Then, lay another strip next to it, overlapping it halfway. Keep placing more strips this way until all of the duct tape is covered.[6]
- To hide the repair as much as possible, choose a color of athletic tape that most closely matches the color of your punching bag.
- Athletic tape is available online and at most sporting goods stores.
- Once the torn part is sealed off with tape, you can safely hit it again. The seal will usually hold for a long time. If the tape comes undone, replace it to reseal the tear.
[Edit]Replacing Hardened Stuffing - Hit the bag to soften the filling if you don't want to replace it. Believe it or not, the simplest way to soften up a worn-out punching bag is to punch it some more. You can leave it hanging and then hit or kick it until it reaches the softness you desire. However, try taking it down, sitting on it, stomping on it, and finding other ways to use it. It distributes the filler much more evenly so your bag stays in prime condition for longer.[7]
- Punching bags harden when all the filler material sinks to the bottom. If the bag feels hard on the bottom but empty at the top, then the filler is the problem.
- Whenever your bag needs adjustment, hit it to redistribute the filler. The fix doesn't last forever, but you can keep doing it indefinitely to avoid having to refill the bag.
- Replace the stuffing with sand and clothing to keep your punching bag soft. Even if you soften the old filling, it will start to harden again. The only way to fix the bag is to swap out the old stuffing for a new batch. It's a little messy, but it isn't very difficult to do. You can make your own stuffing at home instead of buying replacement material from a punching bag manufacturer.[8]
- The new stuffing eventually wears out too, but it lasts at least as long as the original stuffing used in the bag. Make sure you pack it well to ensure it lasts as long as possible.
- If the stuffing starts to solidify, you can always take it down and hit it to soften it up again.
- Unzip the bag to empty out all of the old filler if you're replacing it. Take the bag down from where it's hanging, then find the zipper along its top edge. Unzip it to expose the filling. Have some empty trash bags nearby to collect all of the loose filling. Try to put the punching bag inside the trash bag and then tip it over to spill the filling out.[9]
- Punching bags are filled with loose material like sand and shredded fabric. Changing out the filling can get messy, so be prepared for some of it to spill out as soon as you undo the zipper.
- Some bags have sacks inside of them. They might be filled with water, air, sand, or something else. If they are still in good shape, you could reuse them.
- Cut the metal off of up to of clothing. Collect a bunch of used clothing you don't mind shredding up. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut off zippers, buttons, and any other metal parts that could puncture your bag. Don't worry about cutting the clothing, since you won't ever see it once it's inside the bag.[10]
- Cut clothing scraps are perfectly fine to use, but make sure you stuff them down around the bag. Using uncut clothing is easier since it fills the space faster with less mess.
- Fill 3 to 5 sandwich bags with sand if you want the bag to be harder. Get a few resealable plastic bags that can hold up to of sand. Buy some play sand and use it to fill the bags up as much as possible. Then, close the bags and make sure they stay sealed. As long as the sand stays inside the plastic bag, it won't damage your punching bag.[11]
- You can stuff your bag with only clothing. It will be gentler on your body, but you won't develop as much strength from hitting it.
- If you don't have sand available, you could use sawdust, grains, or something similar. Pick something that adds weight to the bag but won't hurt your hands if you hit it.
- Wrap duct tape around the plastic bags for additional padding. At the very least, wrap a piece of tape across the resealable end of each bag to prevent it from bursting open when you hit it. For additional protection, cover the entire bag with tape. Keep wrapping the tape around the bag until you are no longer able to see the plastic underneath it, then cut it from the roll. If you see any exposed spots, cover them with another piece of tape.[12]
- You can't really use too much tape, so add more if the bag doesn't look too protected. More cushioning is better, since a burst bag creates a big mess that could wear down the inner part of your punching bag.
- Add a sandbag and filling to the bottom of the bag. Open up the bag, then place a sealed sandbag in the center. Surround it with clothing to protect it from damage. Pack in as much clothing as you can so the punching bag is thick and well-cushioned.[13]
- Keep the filling centered in the bag so it receives as little impact from your punches and kicks as possible. The clothing is meant to soften the blows, and it won't work if the sandbags are on the outside or shift around while you're training.
- Use a bat to push the stuffing down toward the bottom of the bag. If you don't have a bat available, find something solid, like the pole end of a rake or broom. Press down on the clothing, taking care not to break the sandbag in the center. Afterward, check how cushioned the sandbag is. You will probably see some space around it. Put some more clothing in to protect it.[14]
- Get the stuffing nice and tight. You will end up with room to stuff in more clothing to pad the sandbags and hold them in place.
- Place sandbags apart while packing the bag. Keep adding more clothing to the bag, pressing it down with the bat. After filling it with of material, place another sandbag in the center. Add another layer of clothing, compressing it with a bat. Continue alternating sandbags and clothing until the entire bag is full.[15]
- Once the bag is full, zip it up and hang it to test it out. Make sure it feels full but comfortable to use.
- With regular use, punching bags tend to last about a year. You can then replace the stuffing or readjust it to make the bag soft enough to comfortably hit again.
- Zip up and hang the punching bag when you're done stuffing it. Make sure the bag is fully packed with the stuffing underneath the zipper at the top. Pull the zipper closed, then lift it up, using a small stepladder if you need it. Clip the bag to the hanging hook on its stand or ceiling mount, then give it a test run.[16]
- Before hanging the bag, test it out. Try hitting it a few times. Make sure you're happy with the consistency so you don't have to take it back down again.
[Edit]Reattaching Broken Straps - Detach the punching bag from its hanging mount. Set up a small stepladder if you need it to reach the bag. The straps will be tied around at least one ring clipped to the mount. Pull back the latch on the ring to open it, then lower the bag to the floor.[17]
- Have a friend help you catch the bag. You can do it on your own, but it's easier to have someone else support its weight while you climb down the ladder.
- Thread heavy twine in a sewing awl to fix nylon straps. Unscrew the metal cap on top of the awl and take out anything inside of it. Place a bobbin of heavy sewing twine in the awl instead. Slide the end of the twine through the hole in the side, making sure it doesn't get tangled at all. Then, place the metal cover back on top of the awl.[18]
- A sewing awl is a handheld tool that punches through thick straps so you can thread string through them. You could use a sewing machine, but awls are a beginner-friendly way to do it by hand.
- Purchase a new length of nylon webbing if the strap is unfixable. Generally, select a strap about long and wide. If you're unsure about what size to get, measure the old strap. Make sure the new one is long enough to fold in half. Try to get the kind used camping bags and other accessories, since they are very strong and more than capable of bearing a punching bag's weight.[19]
- You can find straps available online and at many outdoor supply stores. Another option is to repurpose an old seatbelt.
- If the strap is completely broken, purchase a new length of nylon webbing. It's available online and at most camping supply stores. You could also repurpose an old seatbelt.
- If the old strap is fixable, you could put a length of material behind it, like nylon webbing, and then sew them together for reinforcement.
- Wrap the twine around the awl to thread it through the needle. Look for a small, metal thread holder near the hole you passed the twine through earlier. Loop the thread around the metal, keeping the tail end underneath it. Then, slip the thread through the groove above it until it comes out of the top end of the awl. Thread it through the cap, screw the cap clockwise onto the awl, then insert the needle into the cap to move the thread through it.[20]
- Your awl may come with a straight and curved needle. Use the straight needle to repair broken straps.
- Wrap the nylon strap through the metal rings the punching bag hangs from. Hanging punching bags usually have 4 straps that each connect to a metal ring at the top. Loop the end through the ring, tucking it underneath the rest of the strap. Make sure you pull the strap as tightly as you can.[21]
- The tail end has to be folded over the rest of the strap by at least in order to effectively sew it together. If the damaged strap is too short for this, consider replacing it.
- If you're trying to connect a new strap directly to a punching bag, unzip it so you're able to reach the awl when it passes through the fabric. It's easier to do when the stuffing is out of the bag.
- Use a pencil to trace a pair of sewing lines at the end of the strap. Measure about from the hanging ring. Sketch a line across the width of the strap. Then, measure another back from that and make another line. These lines will help you keep the stitches straight so the new strap not only holds up but looks great.[22]
- Use these lines to keep your stitches nice and straight. If you're going to add additional lines to strengthen the strap, mark them above one another.
- Poke the needle through the upper line and pull the thread through. Hold onto the end of the strap to keep it taught. Position the needle about from the strap's edge. Then, push the awl through the pencil line you marked. Punching through the material can be tough, so be prepared to use some force.[23]
- Leave the loose thread hanging from the hole while you continue to work. You can use it to knot the thread and finish each stitch.
- Create a second hole below the first one on the strap. Move the hole to the second line, which will be closer to the hanging ring. Move the needle so it's about ahead of the initial hole. Then, press down until the awl punches through the strap again. Don't pull the needle back out just yet.[24]
- The exact spacing isn't as important as keeping it consistent for each stitch. Leave yourself enough space to place more holes when you stitch in the opposite direction later.
- Pass the loose twine through the loop near the awl. Check near the needle for a small loop of twine. If you don't see it, pull the awl back out slightly so the thread separates from it. Take the tail end of twine hanging from the first hole and slip it through the loop. Pull the awl back out, then pull both ends of the string tightly to create a lock stitch.[25]
- Pull the twine tightly so it stays knotted against the strap. Remember to leave the twine long enough so you can keep adding more stitches as you move across the strap.
- Alternate poking holes through the pencil lines to secure the strap. Move the awl back up to the first line, spacing the needle at least ahead of the initial hole. After the awl breaks through the strap, pull it back to create the loop, pass the twine through it again to knot it, and then pull it tight. Then, poke a hole through the second line again. Keep switching back and forth until you reach the end of the strap.[26]
- Space the holes out consistently so the stitching is strong and even. If you're unsure how it should look, take a look at the other straps on your bag.
- Repeat the stitching in the opposite direction for additional security. Start at the far end of the strap, placing the needle on the line opposite from the last hole you made. Poke it through, then knot the stitch like usual. This time, each hole you make will be opposite from one you made originally. You will end up creating a zigzag pattern that keeps the strap strong so it can't break apart when you hang the punching bag.[27]
- To strengthen the stitching, move up about along the strap and continue stitching. If you're able to do it 3 to 5 times, the stitching will be really strong.
- When you reach the last stitch, pull the thread tight, knot the loose ends, and then cut off the excess length.
- If you're unable to fix a bag yourself, contact a shoe repair shop. Professional cobblers are often able to sew punching bags back together at a low price.
- Caring for your punching bag is important, so, if you keep it outside, expect it to wear out at a faster rate.
- A damaged punching bag is an inevitability no matter how good you are at taking care of it. Be prepared for yours to eventually be replaced, although you can preserve how long it lasts by cleaning, storing, and mending it.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Repairing Tears with Tape - Duct tape
- Athletic tape
- Scissors
[Edit]Replacing Hardened Stuffing - Scissors
- Sand
- Old clothing
- sandwich bags
- Stepladder (optional)
[Edit]Reattaching Broken Straps - Nylon webbing
- Sewing awl
- Thick sewing twine
- Straight sewing needle
- Scissors
- Stepladder (optional)
[Edit]References |
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