| How to Cut Amaryllis Flower Posted: 30 Aug 2020 01:00 AM PDT The amaryllis is a lovely, vibrant flower, boasting colors of pink, red, and even orange, that grows from a large bulb. Usually, these flowers are planted outdoors or in a pot, but you can also cut them and display them in a vase. Whether you're interested in creating arrangements for a special event or simply want to enjoy this beautiful flower from the comfort of your home, you can easily harvest them with a bit of care. [Edit]Cutting the Flower from the Bulb - Snip flowers away from the bulb before they bloom for long-lasting enjoyment. Once the stem opens up and you see multiple buds, but before they've actually started to open up, it is the prime time to snip them away. They'll have a much longer vase-life this way.[1]
- With the proper care, cut amaryllis can last for up to 3 weeks in a vase.
- Support the stem with your hand as you cut it so that it doesn't break. Once you cut away the flower from the bloom, the weight of the buds could bend the stem and break it. Gently hold the stem underneath the buds so it doesn't topple over after being cut.[2]
- The inside of the stem is hollow, so it's very delicate.
- Make your cut at a 45-degree angle above the bulb. Use either a sharp, clean knife or a pair of scissors to cut. Be careful to only cut the stem of the flower you want to harvest to avoid injuring the other ones.[3]
- If you notice sap coming out of the bulb, that's normal and doesn't mean that you injured the bulb.
[Edit]Caring for Cut Amaryllis - Put the freshly-cut flowers in a vase filled with room-temperature water. For now, don't worry about trimming the stems to the right size for the vase you're using—it's most important to get the newly-cut stems into water as soon as possible.[4]
- The only exception to the rule here is if the stem is too long for the vase and the amaryllis is at risk of breaking because it's so top-heavy. If this is the case, go ahead and trim the stem so that it can rest safely in the vase.
- Make sure the vase you're using is clean and dust-free. If you have a minute, you may want to give it a quick wash with dish soap just to make sure it's completely free of any unwanted bacteria.
- Leave the flowers in a cool, shaded place for 3-4 hours. This restorative time helps the amaryllis adjust to the shock of being removed from the bulb. Put it in a dark room or bathroom with the lights turned off.[5]
- For even better longevity, move your amaryllis to a cool location every night before you go to bed. Too much heat or humidity can cause the petals to wilt prematurely.
- Trim the stem and move the flowers to their final destination. After the flowers have had some time to rest, you can go ahead and trim the stem so that it's the right height for the vase you're using. Cut it at a 45-degree angle, and place the vase in a room that is ideally around .[6]
- Because of the top-heaviness of amaryllis, try to leave just of stem above the rim of the vase.
- Stir a packet of flower food into the vase. You can buy pre-mixed packets of flower food from any florist. Simply cut open the plastic, pour the contents into the vase, and gently shake the water around to help it disperse.[7]
- Flower food can help balance the pH level in the water, eliminate mold-causing bacteria, and add needed sugar to help feed your blooms.
- When you buy flowers from the store or florist, the bouquets come with a packet of flower food. You could always ask for an extra one and save it at home for when you have your own freshly cut flowers to display.
- Keep the vase out of direct sunlight and change the water every 3-5 days. Direct light and excessive heat will wilt your flowers quickly and can sap the color. To change the water, remove the flowers from the vase and hold them in one hand. With the other, dump out the old water and fill the vase with fresh room-temperature water.[8]
- When you change the water, add more flower food if you have it.
[Edit]Creating a Beautiful Arrangement - Choose a vase that can support the weight of the amaryllis. Amaryllis tend to be very top-heavy, so a light, thin vase might topple over under its weight. If you want to keep the stems long, use a tall vase with a heavy bottom. If you want to cut the stems short, a squat, broad vase will work best.[9]
- If you're concerned about the vase staying upright, you could fill the bottom with of small stones or rocks for added weight.
- Use a clear or translucent vase to display the vibrant, green stem. Because the stem is so thick and the flower itself so large and colorful, a clear, minimalist vase will look the best. If you use a colored vase, look for one that is just lightly tinted so that the stem is still visible through it.[10]
- If you prefer a bright, colorful vase, or perhaps a solid white vase, that's totally fine, too. Do whatever makes you happy to look at your flowers each day.
- Add a few filler flowers if you want a fuller looking arrangement. The amaryllis can shine on its own, but there's nothing wrong with adding a little bit of greenery to your arrangement. Stay away from filler flowers that have colorful blooms and instead focus on ones that are primarily green or white, like fern, ivy, baby's breath, eucalyptus, bells-of-Ireland, or ragwort.[11]
- If you're worried about the flowers staying in place, use floral tape to make a grid over the vase's opening. Simply put the flowers through a specific hole to position them.[12]
- Trim off dead blooms to keep your arrangement looking fresh. As your flowers age and fade, you can revive your arrangement by pruning the parts that no longer look vibrant. The amaryllis most likely had several buds, but they probably didn't all flower at the same rate. If one of them has started to wilt and fade but the others still look good, just cut off the one that is past its prime.[13]
- Always use a clean knife or pair of scissors to avoid introducing bacteria to the flowers.
- When cared for, each bloom can last for about 3 weeks.
- Don't throw away the bulb after you've cut away the flowers! It'll bloom again and grow new stems as it heals.[14]
- Always use a clean vase for your cut flowers. Giving the vase a quick wash with warm water and dish soap will ensure there are no bacteria that could infect your blooms.[15]
- Place a flower stick inside the stem to provide extra support for the weight of the stem and bloom.[16]
[Edit]Warnings - The amaryllis will die if it's left outdoors in cold weather. If it's cold enough to frost, it's too cold for your beautiful plant to be left outside.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Cutting the Flower from the Bulb - Sharp, clean knife or scissors
[Edit]Caring for Cut Amaryllis - Sharp, clean knife or scissors
- Vase
- Flower food
[Edit]Creating a Beautiful Arrangement - Vase
- Filler flowers
- Sharp, clean knife or scissors
[Edit]References |
| How to Samba Posted: 29 Aug 2020 05:00 PM PDT Samba is a fun, lively dance that originated in Brazil. It originated as a solo dance, but has since become a flirty and fast-paced partner dance that's often seen in ballroom dancing.[1] If you'd like to delve into the world of samba dancing, you can dip your feet in by learning the basic movements and dancing with a partner. [Edit]Trying the Basic Steps - Master the leading 6 steps if you are the leading partner. The leading partner in the samba is the one who takes control of the dance to lead their partner around. If you'd like to be the leading partner, practice the 6 basic steps of the samba on your own. The steps are:[2]
- Step forward with your left foot
- Move your right foot to your left foot
- Shift the weight to your left foot
- Step backward with your right foot
- Move your left foot to your right foot
- Keep your right foot in place and shift your weight to it
- Practice the mirrored steps if you are the following partner. The other partner in samba does the following steps, or a mirrored version of the leading partner's. To practice the following steps, try:[3]
- Step backward with your right foot
- Move your left foot to your right foot
- Keep your right foot in place and shift your weight to it
- Step forward with your left foot
- Move your right foot to your left foot
- Keep your left foot in place and shift your weight to it.
- Count the rhythm with an "uh" in between the beat. The rhythm of samba is a little different from other ballroom dances. As you listen to the beat of the music, count the rhythm as "one-uh-two, three-uh-four, five-uh-six, seven-uh-eight." This will help you move your body in time to the music as you step.[4]
- Bounce up and down as you do the steps. The "samba bounce" adds fluidity and motion to your movements. As you step back and forth, bend your knees slightly and bounce up and down through each step.[5]
- Make sure you bounce on the beat to match your steps.
- Sway your hips back and forth as you move your feet. Adding your hips gives your dance a bit of style and attitude. As you dance, rock your hips to the right and left every time you make a step. Not only will this add fluidity, it also gives the samba its flirtatious charm.[6]
- If you've never danced the samba before, it can be hard to add in your hips. Try mastering the basic steps first before you add this in.
[Edit]Dancing with a Partner - Face your partner with one hand on their back. If you are the leading partner, put your right hand high on your partner's back. If you are a following partner, put your left arm along your partner's right arm and rest your hand on your partner's shoulder blade.[7]
- This is also called the "closed" position.[8]
- Hold your partner's free hand with your free hand. Put your free arm up in the air at about shoulder-height and clasp your partner's hand in yours. Keep your hands held up high above shoulder level the entire time that you're dancing.[9]
- This will also help you keep your back straight and your head held high.
- Look straight ahead over your partner's right shoulder. Since you and your partner are so close to each other, it can be a little awkward to stare at each other the whole time. Keep your eyes pointed forward over your partner's shoulder the entire time you're dancing.[10]
- Think about the saying, "The nose should follow the toes" to keep your head pointed in the direction that your feet are going.
- Step on the first count. When you step on each count, the leader and follower will be going through the same steps, but mirrored. When the leader goes forward, the follower will go backwards. When the leader uses the left foot, the follower uses the right foot.[11]
- If you are the leader, take a step forward with your left foot on count 1.
- If you are the follower, take a step backwards with your right foot on count 1.
- Bring your other foot in for the ah-2 steps. This next step, on the ah, is a quick step. Step your other foot right beside the one you moved in the previous count. Shift your weight to your other foot, making sure not to put full pressure on this foot. Then, on the 2 count, shift your weight completely back to the first foot. Do this step quickly to put yourself back into the initial, neutral position.[12]
- Your weight will end up back on the foot you led with.
- If you are the leader, you will be stepping your right foot forward beside your left, then shifting partial body weight to the right foot during the ah count.
- If you are the follower, you will be stepping your left foot back beside your right, then shifting partial body weight to the left foot during the ah count.
- Reverse the steps as you start dancing again. Complete the same sequence of steps to the same count, but this time reverse them. If you're the leader, go backwards, and if you're the follower, go forwards.[13]
- If you are the leader, step backward on your right foot, bring your left foot back next to it. Shift your weight quickly to the left on the ah count then back to the right on the 2 count.
- If you are the follower, step forward on your left foot, then bring your right foot forward next to it. Shift part of your weight to the right foot on the ah and then back to the left on the 2 count.
[Edit]Learning Advanced Moves - Add in a side step from the closed position. If you are the leader, step right on the 1 count and then bring your left foot in. Shift partial weight onto your left foot for the "ah" step. If you are the follower, step left. Then, transfer your weight back onto your leading foot on the 2 count. Finally, step sideways the opposite way.[14]
- You can add in a side step before or after the basic steps to jazz up your routine.
- Try the whisk, a variation of the side step. If you are the leader, step to the right on the 1 count. Bring your left foot diagonally close behind your leading foot. On the ah count, transfer some weight back onto your foot diagonally behind your right foot, then the full weight back onto the right foot. If you are the follower, step to the left on the 1 count. Bring your right foot diagonally closer behind your left foot. Shift a small amount of weight onto your right foot on the ah count, then shift back fully onto the left foot.[15]
- When you change directions, you will be stepping with the diagonal, back foot. The step will be a bit wider than in the basic step.
- Try the stationary samba walk. If you're the leader, extend your left leg behind you and bring it forward on the 1 count. If you're the follower, extend your right leg behind you and bring it forward on the 1 count. Step the opposite foot back, with the toe turned out on the ah count. Part of your weight should be in your back foot. On the 2 count, slide your stabilizing, inside foot back about , placing all your weight back on the stabilizing foot.[16]
- For this walk, hold both of your partner's hands instead of just one.
- This isn't a traveling move, so you'll stay in one place.
- Dance the samba walk. Position your bodies slightly away from each other so they're in an open "V" position. Start with the outside leg diagonal behind your inside, stabilizing leg. Step the back leg forward in front of the inside leg on the 1 count. On the ah count, step the inside leg back, with the toe turned out. For the 2 count, slide the front leg back about and transfer all your weight to that leg. Finally, slide the front leg back about on the 2 count, then transfer your weight to that leg.[17]
- If you are the leader, you will start by stepping forward with the left leg, then step the right leg back. If you are the follower, you will use the opposite legs.
- You should be travelling a little across the dance floor as you complete this move.
- Learning a new dance can take a while, so try not to get discouraged.
- Consider joining a samba class to get weekly practice with an instructor.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Stop a Puppy from Barking at a Cat Posted: 29 Aug 2020 09:00 AM PDT It's totally normal for a puppy to get excited and start barking when it sees a cat. Unfortunately, this behavior can cause a lot of stress for the cat and make things tense between your furry friends. With a little patience, though, you can train your puppy to sit quietly whenever it sees a cat. It's also important to introduce your pup and cat properly so their relationship can start off on the right foot. [Edit]Teaching the "Quiet" Command - Train your puppy to "speak" by rewarding it when it barks. This may seem a little odd, but it's easier to teach your puppy to be quiet if you first teach it to bark on command. Wait for your puppy to start barking on its own. Let it bark 2 or 3 times, then say "speak" and offer a treat at the same time. Keep doing this until your puppy starts barking as soon as you say "speak."[1]
- Only reward barking while giving the "speak" command! Otherwise, you might encourage your puppy to bark all the time.[2]
- Take your puppy to a quiet location with no distractions. When you're ready to teach your puppy the "quiet" command, take it someplace where you'll have its full attention. For instance, go to a quiet room in your home with the curtains drawn.[3]
- At this point, you should not have a cat present, or any other stimuli that usually cause your puppy to bark. This would only distract your puppy.[4]
- Ask your puppy to "speak," then offer a treat when it barks. Give the "speak" command, then immediately give your puppy a delicious treat or a favorite toy. Your puppy will probably stop barking immediately, since it will be paying attention to the treat.[5]
- Say "quiet" at the same time that you offer the treat. As you are giving the puppy a treat or toy, say "quiet" or another command of your choice, like "hush." This way, the puppy will come to associate the command with being quiet and getting a reward.[6]
- Be consistent—once you choose a verbal command, stick with it. You can also use a gesture, such as holding up your hand.
- Give the command calmly and quietly. Don't shout, or you might scare your puppy or encourage it to bark more.
- Keep practicing until your puppy stops barking on command. Practice the "quiet" command with your puppy a few times a day. Eventually, it should stop barking as soon as it hears the command, without you having to offer a treat![7]
- If your puppy stays quiet for a few seconds after you say the command, offer more praise and treats. Over time, keep extending the length of time between the "quiet" command and the reward so that your puppy stays quiet longer.[8]
- Once your puppy has mastered the command in a quiet setting without distractions, increase the challenge level. For example, you might try giving the command while you're out for a walk or when your puppy is excited by the sound of a visitor at the door.
- Try the "quiet" command when the puppy barks at a cat. When your pup consistently stops barking on command, it's time to put your training to the test![9] Next time your puppy sees a cat and starts barking, give the command. Remember to offer plenty of praise and treats if your puppy responds.
- If your puppy keeps barking at the cat, quietly remove the puppy from the situation. You can try again when it's calmer.
[Edit]Distracting Your Puppy - Teach your puppy a basic command, such as "sit" or "lie down." To teach your puppy to be quiet around your cat, it can help to do some basic training first. Most dogs will quiet down while obeying a settle command, such as "sit," "lie down," or "watch," so start by working with your puppy to learn one of these commands.[10]
- One simple way to teach your puppy to sit is to hold a treat, then wait for the puppy to sit on its own. As soon as the puppy sits, say "yes" and hand it the treat. After you've done this a few times, say "sit" every time the puppy starts to sit. It will soon learn the "sit" command![11]
- Try to spend at least 15 minutes a day training your puppy. Since puppies can't focus for very long, break your training up into shorter sessions (e.g., about 5 minutes each) instead of trying to do it all at once.[12]
- Depending on your puppy's personality and how consistent you are with your training, your puppy could learn the command very quickly, or it could take days or even weeks. Just be patient, and expect mistakes and slip-ups from time to time.
- Give the verbal command whenever the puppy sees the cat. Once the puppy learns your chosen command, give the command any time the cat is nearby. This way, your puppy will be focused on obeying the command instead of barking at the cat.[13] Use a calm, friendly voice, since both your dog and your cat will sense and react to any hint of frustration or anxiety.
- For example, wait for a moment when your puppy is calm, then let your cat into the room. As soon as the cat walks in, say "sit."
- When you first start practicing this command around the cat, keep your puppy on a leash. You can remove the leash once the puppy is able to consistently obey the command around your cat.
- Offer a treat and praise as soon as the puppy responds to the command. If your puppy sits quietly when you give the command in front of the cat, reward it immediately. Give your puppy a favorite treat, pet it, and say "Good dog!"[14]
- If the puppy ignores your command and starts barking, gently lead it a few steps away from the cat and try again. Keep moving away until the puppy is able to focus on your command.
- If it keeps barking at the cat or is too excited to focus, take your puppy out of the room and try again later.
- Keep rewarding the puppy whenever it sits quietly around the cat. If the cat stays close by and the puppy remains quiet, continue to praise and pet your puppy. You can also offer a favorite toy to keep your puppy distracted while the cat is in the room.[15]
- After a while, your puppy should start automatically looking at you and waiting for your command whenever it sees the cat.
- Be patient and consistent, and don't be surprised if your puppy occasionally seems to forget its training and starts barking again. It may take a lot of repetitive reinforcement before your dog really gets it!
[Edit]Introducing Your Pets Properly - Keep your puppy and cat in separate rooms for a few days. When you introduce a new puppy to your cat, it's important to give them time to get used to each other's scents and sounds before they're placed together. Take turns letting each of the animals out to roam around so they can investigate and smell each other around the home.[16]
- For example, you might supervise your puppy while it explores the living room for a few hours and keep the cat in your bedroom. Then, crate your puppy or put it in another room and let the cat out.
- Your puppy will be less likely to start barking when it sees the cat if it's already familiar with the cat's scent.
- It's normal for a puppy to scratch and bark at the door or other barrier separating it from your cat for the first 1-2 days. If this behavior continues after 2 days, then you might need help from a professional trainer, who can work with you on more advanced training techniques.
- Wait until both animals are calm before letting them interact. If your puppy is excited and worked up, or if your cat is still acting nervous about the newcomer in the home, then they're more likely to have a tense introduction. Don't put your pets together in the same room until your puppy has stopped acting excited whenever it hears or smells the cat.[17]
- Make sure your cat is eating and using the litter normally, since refusing to eat or go to the bathroom are signs of stress.
- Before the first introduction, you might find it helpful take your puppy on a long walk. This will help it release pent up energy, so it's more likely to be calm and quiet when it first meets the cat.
- Choose an area where your cat can retreat to a safe space. When you're ready to make the introduction, pick a room where your cat feels safe and can easily leave or move to a high place.[18] If your cat feels cornered, it may panic, which could trigger your puppy to become overexcited and start barking.
- Cats tend to feel more secure when they can get up high, so choose a room where your cat can climb up onto a tall scratching tower or jump onto a shelf.
- Put your puppy on a leash when you first introduce your pets. Attach your puppy to a leash so that you can keep it under control whenever your pets are together in the same room.[19] Keep these visits short at first (e.g., 5-10 minutes) and do them several times a day. Eventually, you can build up to longer interactions.
- If possible, have someone else in the room at the same time so you can each pet, praise, and treat both the puppy and the cat for good behavior.[20] Reward both animals for sitting quietly and staying calm.
- If your puppy gets overexcited and starts barking, take it out of the room. Similarly, take the cat out if it starts hissing, growling, or trying to swat the puppy. You may need to go back to keeping them in separate rooms for a longer period if this is a consistent problem.
- Give the puppy a distracting toy while the cat is around. Any time you have the cat and dog together, try offering your puppy a favorite toy, such as a Kong or an activity mat. This way, the puppy will focus on the toy instead of barking at the cat. Eventually, your puppy should become used to having the cat around while it plays quietly by itself.[21]
- If your puppy plays with the toy instead of barking at the cat, offer plenty of praise and treats!
- Practice supervised interactions on the leash for at least a month. Keep doing leashed visits between your puppy and cat for several weeks so that they can get used to each other. Eventually, they should get to the point where they ignore each other and your puppy doesn't bark or chase the cat.[22]
- Try to get a sense of how your cat is feeling, too. Wait until the cat seems calm around the puppy and is eating and using the litter box normally.
- Once you're sure that your puppy can behave around the cat, you can allow them to spend time together with the puppy off the leash.
- While there are a variety of no-bark collars available on the market, these devices aren't particularly effective and are not recommended by the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals). Use a no-bark collar only as a last resort if other training techniques haven't worked.[23]
- If your puppy barks at a cat outside through the window, close the curtains or take your puppy out of the room. Do this calmly and quietly, so that you're not accidentally rewarding your dog for the behavior with a lot of excitement or attention.[24]
[Edit]Warnings - If your dog ignores your attempts to distract it, or if it regularly lunges, snaps, or growls at your cat even while the cat is being quiet and calm, then your puppy and cat may not be a good match. You may need to permanently keep them apart or get help from a professional trainer.[25]
- Never punish your puppy by yelling at it, swatting it, or yanking on its leash. This will only confuse your puppy and make it feel afraid of you. Instead, focus on gently redirecting your dog from bad behaviors and rewarding good ones.[26]
[Edit]References |
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