| How to Refinish a Front Door Posted: 06 Aug 2020 01:00 AM PDT Your front door is one of the first things a person sees before entering your home, so you want to make a good first impression. If your door is looking a little worse for wear, it may be time to add a new coat of finish to freshen up its appearance and take it to the next level. For a natural look, you can use a combination of stain and clear finish to improve the appearance of your front door, while paint and primer can give your door a more colorful look. Overall, you'll need 3 days to complete this project, but it only takes a couple hours or so to sand down down the door and actually apply the finish. [Edit]Disassembling and Sanding the Door - Remove the door from its hinges. Open your front door slightly and place a sturdy doorstop beneath the door. Place the sharp part of a 16-penny nail along the bottom opening of your hinge and hammer the bottom of the nail a few times, which will loosen and remove the pin. Once all the pins are removed, angle the door so it fits through the doorframe and carry it outside to your workspace.[1]
- Remove the bottom hinge first, then work your way to the top.
- You can also hammer a screwdriver to remove the hinge pins.
- Place the hinge pins in a secure area so you can find and replace them later.
- Place the door horizontally on some padded sawhorses. Set up 2 sawhorses in an open work area, like your garage or yard. Drape a towel or other kind of padding over each sawhorse, then place your front door on top, with the handle or knob facing up.[2]
- The padding helps prevent your door from getting scratched or banged up.
- Take off any doorknobs and other hardware attached to the door. Unscrew the front doorknob or handle from the door, along with any lock mechanisms in the side of the door. Set all of the hardware aside so you can reinstall it later.[3]
- Remove any hardware that's attached to your door at this point, whether it's a knob, handle, lock, or kick plate.
- Buff away old varnish on the panels with an 80-grit paper and a random-orbit sander. Install an 80-grit sheet of sandpaper into a random-orbit sander and turn it on. Move the sander over the flat panels along the front of the door in slow, back and forth motions, focusing on any loose or peeling varnish. Sand away the worst of the old finish so the wood is visible underneath.[4]
- If you don't have a random-orbit sander, you can use regular sheets of sandpaper instead. However, the sanding process will take a lot longer to complete by hand.
- Smooth off the wood with 100-grit paper. Remove the old paper from your random-orbit sander and attach a sheet of 100-grit paper instead. Repeat the same process that you did before, but focus on smoothing out the surface of the wood. Only sand over the smooth portions of the door—don't worry about any creases or dips.[5]
- Polish the sanded wood with 120-grit paper. Take out the 100-grit paper and replace it with a finer grit. Turn on your device and sand off the same area again, which will give it a really smooth finish.[6]
- Before applying any finish, the door needs to be completely smooth and sanded down first.
- Scrape the old finish off the moldings with a trapezoid- or teardrop-shaped blade. Examine the corners and profile of your door where the wood is ornately curved and carved. Hold a handheld scraper with both hands, positioning it along the end of the profile. Apply a little pressure and drag the scraper forward to sand off these hard-to-reach areas.[7]
- A trapezoid-shaped scraper works best for flatter portions of the wood, while a teardrop-shaped scraper works well with narrow sections that are harder to access.
- Don't use a rotary or random-orbit sander to buff these profiles, or you could do a lot of damage to the wood.
- Hand-sand the wooden profiles with a sanding sponge. Fold a section of 100-grit sandpaper into thirds and start sanding the molding on your door that you just scraped. If needed, brush off the surface with a sanding sponge to buff off some hard-to-reach areas of your molding.[8]
- You can find a sanding sponge at your local hardware store.
- Brush and vacuum away any leftover sawdust from the surface of the door. Take a clean cloth and wipe off any obvious sawdust or finish leftover on the door. For a more thorough clean, go over the surface of the door with a vacuum tube attachment.[9]
- Reattach the door to its hinges. Ask a friend or family member to help you move the door back into the front entryway. Insert the hinge pins back into place, but don't reattach any other hardware yet.[10]
- Attaching the door ahead of time prevents the finish from being damaged later on.
[Edit]Staining Your Front Door - Apply a wood preservative and stain for a more natural look. Pick up a natural wood preservative like boiled linseed oil, and a can of your desired stain color. The linseed oil will help preserve and protect your door, while the stain will add a nice new color.[11]
- Apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to the surface of your door. Pour a small amount of boiled linseed oil into a painter's tray, then dip a small, bristle brush into the mixture. Spread the oil over the moldings, horizontal rails, and stiles first, then coat the flat portions of your door. This provides a sturdy base layer for the stain.[12]
- A natural-bristle brush is best for applying boiled linseed oil.[13]
- Wait for the linseed oil to dry completely. Check on your door every few hours to see if it's dry to the touch. You may have to wait at least a day before your door is ready for staining.[14]
- Check the label on your boiled linseed oil for more specific drying instructions.
- Brush a coat of stain onto your door and let it dry. Dip a clean brush into your stain and spread it over the interior and exterior sides of your door. For easier application, start with the moldings, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles, then apply stain to the flat sections of the door. Once you've applied the stain, wait at least 1 day until it's dry to the touch.[15]
- Double-check your stain bucket to see what the recommended drying time is.
- Add a second coat of stain to your door and allow it to dry. Dip your brush into the stain again and spread it over the inside and outside of your door. Focus on the moldings, rails, and stiles first, then flat sections.Wait for the stain to dry for 2 days, then apply a clear finish.[16]
[Edit]Applying Clear Finish - Pick an outdoor-specific, UV-protecting finish to keep your door in great condition. Think about how much TLC you'd like to give your front door. If you're looking for a quick solution, check out a varnish or finish with UV-protection specified in the label, which can save your door from future sun damage.[17]
- You can find different paint and finish options at your local hardware or home improvement store.
- Finishes with oxide pigments or trans-oxide pigments work well for this.[18]
- Soak a brush in paint thinner. Fill a sturdy tray or container with paint thinner and a separate bucket with the finish of your choice. Soak ⅓ of your brush bristles into the paint thinner, then shake off any excess.[19]
- This makes it easier to apply the paint initially.
- Paint over the door edges with clear finish and let them dry. Dip your brush into the finish and apply it in smooth, even strokes over the thin edges along the top and bottom of your door. Wait 1 day or so for the finish to dry completely before you move or paint any other sections of the door.[20]
- Follow the recommended instructions on your can of finish to figure out an exact drying time.
- You only need to dip the bottom of the bristles into the finish.
- Apply a coat of your desired finish over the front and back of your door. Dip your brush into the finish and apply a thin coat over the flat, paneled sections on both the exterior and interior sides of your door. Spread the paint along the grain of the wood in slow, even coats so your paint job looks smooth. Continue painting the moldings, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles of your door to give the surface an even polish.[21]
- Since you aren't painting a large surface, like a wall, it's best to use a brush instead of a roller.
- Horizontal rails are the raised, horizontal panels going across your door while vertical stiles are the raised, vertical portions.
- Leave the door ajar and let it dry overnight. Open the door slightly so it can be surrounded by fresh air. Let your door stand in the open overnight so the first layer of finish can dry completely.[22]
- Sand down the dried finish with 220-grit sandpaper. Take a section of 220-grit paper and rub down the dried finish in smooth, consistent strokes. Buff the entire surface of the door, including the moldings, stiles, and rails.[23]
- Wipe away any leftover dust from the door. Double-check all the crevices and curves of your door to make sure the dust is gone. You can wipe any leftover residue into the trash. As a final touch, brush off your door with a tack cloth.[24]
- You can get a tack cloth from your local hardware or home improvement store.
- Apply a second layer of finish over both sides of your door. Paint your door in the same order that you did before by starting with your wooden panels and making your way to the moldings. Finally, add another coat of finish to the horizontal rails and vertical stiles on your door.[25]
- Wait for the finish to dry overnight. Leave your door open overnight again, letting the fresh air dry off the wet finish. Don't apply any more finish until the door is completely dry to the touch.[26]
- Buff the door again with 280-grit sandpaper. Take a clean sheet of fine sandpaper and rub down the panels, moldings, railings, and stiles of the door. As you did before, wipe away any leftover residue and dust on the door, then wipe down the door with a tack cloth.[27]
- Add a final layer of finish to both sides of your door and let it dry. Dip your brush into the finish one last time and paint both sides of your door in the same order that you did before: panels, molding, horizontal rails, and vertical stiles. Keep your door open overnight again so the finish can dry completely. Once the finish is completely dry, you can reinstall your doorknob, kickplate, and any other missing hardware.[28]
[Edit]Painting the Door - Use a combination of enamel paint and primer for full coverage. Visit your local hardware or home improvement store and pick up some enamel primer and paint for your door. Instead of applying 3 coats of finish, start with a single coat of primer and 2 coats of enamel paint. This combination helps protect your door from sun damage, and can last up to a decade.[29]
- You can choose a paint color that matches your door, or pick a new color altogether.
- Tape the edges of your door to prevent paint spills. Rip away long strips of painters tape and secure them along the edges of your front door. Place the tape along the inner and outer edges of your door frame to prevent and primer or paint from spilling onto your home's exteriors or inner walls.[30]
- You can find painter's tape at most hardware or paint stores.
- Apply a coat of wood primer to your door and let it dry. Dip a brush into your primer and begin spreading it onto your front door. Start painting the top right or left corner and work your way down to the bottom of the door. Prime 1 half of the door at a time. Double-check that you've primed the edges of your door in addition to the front and back, then wait a day or so for the primer to dry.[31]
- For instance, you can paint the left side first, and then the right side (or vice versa).
- Check your primer can for more specific drying instructions.
- Buff the primer with 220-grit sandpaper. Take a new sheet of fine sandpaper and go over both sides of your front door. [32] Brush away any leftover paint dust with a tack cloth, so your door is completely smooth.[33]
- Fine sandpaper is a great option for fine-tuning painting projects, and helps your final paint job look as professional as possible.[34]
- Spread the first coat of paint to both sides of your door. Dip a clean, bristle brush into your desired paint color and apply it over the door. Follow the same pattern that you did with the primer, working from from 1 corner to the bottom of the door. Apply the paint in sections, then let it dry completely before you continue.[35]
- Double-check your paint can to see how much time the paint needs to dry.
- Sand down the dried paint with 220-grit sandpaper. Take another fresh sheet of sandpaper and go over the front and back portions of your front door. Once again, dust away any paint with a tack cloth so your door is as smooth as possible.[36]
- Add 2 more coats of paint while sanding in between. Apply a second coat of paint over the first, working from top to bottom as you did before. Wait for the paint to dry completely, then sand over the surface with 220-grit sandpaper and apply a third coat for good measure.[37]
- Clean up your door and reinstall any missing hardware. Wait for the paint to completely dry and remove the painter's tape surrounding your door. Additionally, take a few minutes reinstall your doorknob, kickplate, and any other hardware.[38]
- Contact a professional if you need help with any part of the finishing process.
- Always work in a well-ventilated area with a lot of open area flowing around.
[Edit]Warnings - If your door has a thick original finish, you may need to remove it with a chemical stripper.[39]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Disassembling and Sanding the Door - 16-penny nail
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Sawhorses
- Padding or towel
- Random-orbit sander
- 80-grit sandpaper sheets
- 100-grit sandpaper sheets
- 120-grit sandpaper sheets
- Clean cloth
- Tack cloth
- Vacuum
[Edit]Staining Your Front Door - Boiled linseed oil
- bristle paint brush
- Stain
- Screwdriver
- Paint tray (optional)
[Edit]Applying Clear Finish - Paint thinner
- Finish
- Bucket or paint tray
- bristle paint brush
- 220-grit sandpaper
- 280-grit sandpaper
- Tack cloth
[Edit]Painting the Door - Painter's tape
- Wood primer
- Finish paint
- bristle paint brush
- 220-grit sandpaper
- Tack cloth
- Screwdriver
[Edit]References |
| How to Make Lip Balm Without Beeswax Posted: 05 Aug 2020 05:00 PM PDT If you prefer not to use beeswax or you just don't have it on hand, you can still make an awesome lip balm or gloss! Coconut oil, shea butter, honey, and castor oil can all be used in various proportions to make a solid, hydrating lip gloss. Try a simple honey lip balm with coconut oil or shea butter, for instance. You can also make your lip balm from gelatin powder to give it structure or make a moisturizing gloss from a blend of oils and butters. [Edit]Making a Simple Honey Lip Balm - Add of shea butter or coconut oil to a small pan. You can double the amount if you want to make multiple lip balms. You can also place this in a double boiler, which is just a heat-safe bowl over a pot that has boiling water in it. Don't allow the bottom of the bowl to touch the boiling water. The double boiler will allow you to heat the oil or butter more slowly so it doesn't burn.[1]
- Another option is to put this in a small microwave-safe bowl to heat in the microwave.
- Shea butter is a better general moisturizer, since it has vitamin E in it. However, coconut oil is also hydrating.
- Heat the shea butter on the lowest setting. Because you're using such a small amount of shea butter, it can burn easily. Keep an eye on it, and set the burner on the lowest setting you can. Don't let it bubble! It's heated enough when the shea butter or coconut oil is melted.[2]
- If you're heating it in the microwave, start with 10 seconds and check on it. Stir it and heat it in 5-second increments after that.
- Add in of raw honey and 4-5 drops of essential oil. Take the shea butter off the heat and let it cool for 2-3 minutes. Stir in the honey and essential oil until they're well blended.[3]
- Try peppermint, rose, or a citrus essential oil.
- If you don't want to use honey, you can substitute castor oil, which is a vegan ingredient. Use castor oil in the same proportions as the honey. Honey draws moisture to your lips and helps exfoliate them, while castor oil is good for hydration and dealing with chapped lips.
- Instead of essential oil, try adding in a few dashes of ground cinnamon.
- Pour the lip balm into a container to cool. Opt for an old lip balm container or any small container you have. You can use an old mint tin, a small baby food jar, or even an old (clean) pill bottle. Leave it overnight to cool and solidify.[4]
- You can store this lip balm at room temperature for several months.
[Edit]Creating Fruity Gelatin Lip Balm - Warm up of coconut oil in the microwave. Start with 15 seconds. If that doesn't melt the oil, heat it at 5-second intervals. You need the coconut oil hot enough to liquefy and activate the gelatin. It won't mix well if it's still in its solid form. You can also use equal parts of coconut oil and petroleum jelly.[5]
- You may need to stir it a bit to make sure it's evenly melted.[6]
- Coconut oil is hydrating, while petroleum jelly helps seal in moisture.
- Mix in 2 teaspoons (about 6 grams) of your favorite gelatin powder. Mix it in while the oil is hot, making sure to stir it thoroughly. The heat will help activate the gelatin so the lip balm will set up properly.[7]
- You can use any flavor you like, but keep in mind it will also tint the lip balm. Try raspberry, cherry, or strawberry for a pink-red color. You can also go a little crazy with grape for a purple lip balm or blue raspberry for a bright blue color. For a colorless balm, try unflavored gelatin.
- You can use sugar-free gelatin, too, but you may need to use a little less powder. Experiment to see what works!
- Gelatin mainly helps set the lip balm, though the protein in gelatin may be beneficial.
- Add in 6-8 drops of an essential oil in a complementary flavor. This step is optional, but it can add some zing to your lip balm. For instance, try lemon or mint oil with raspberry, grapefruit oil with cherry, or orange oil with grape gelatin. Mix the oil in.[8]
- Most citrus essential oils have antioxidant and antibacterial properties.
- Pour the mixture into a small container to set. You can use old lip balm tubes or any small container, such as a clean baby food jar. Put it in the refrigerator to cool for 2-3 hours if you're in a hurry, or you can just let it sit overnight. You can use it when it's cooled down completely and solidified a bit.[9]
- If you want to use multiple lip balm tubes, use a rubber band to tie them together. That will make it easier to pour the lip balm into the tubes.
- This should keep several months at room temperature since it doesn't have water in it. However, if it smells off or has mold, throw it out.
[Edit]Mixing a Hydrating Lip Balm - Add castor oil, shea butter, and coconut oil to a small pan. Pour in each of castor oil and shea butter. Measure out of coconut oil, and add that to the pan, too.[10]
- If you want, you can substitute petroleum jelly for the castor oil in the same proportion. Petroleum jelly seals in moisture. Castor oil soothes chapped lips and hydrates. Both shea butter and coconut oil hydrate, but shea butter has vitamin E, too, which is good for your skin.
- You can also leave out the shea butter if you'd like. Try adding more coconut oil.
- You can also heat these in the microwave; if you'd like to, use a small microwave-safe bowl.
- Place the pan over low heat to melt the oils together. As the oils warm up, stir them occasionally to distribute the heat evenly. Once the coconut oil and shea butter have melted and the oils are all incorporated, take the pan off the heat.[11]
- If you heat it in the microwave, start with 15-20 seconds and check on it. Heat it up in 5-second increments until the oils are melted and mixed together.
- Pour in a few drops of the essential oil of your choice after you take the oils off the heat. Try 10-15 drops of citrus essential oil, such as grapefruit, lemon, or orange for a summery lip balm. Alternatively, add peppermint for a cooling lip balm. If you like floral flavors, use lavender or rose oil.[12]
- Citrus essential oils have antioxidant and antibacterial properties.
- Clove or cinnamon are also good options, but you should start with just a few drops. They can get overpowering very quickly. They have a warming effect on your lips.
- If you don't have any essential oils, try sprinkling in 1/4 a packet of a drink powder mix, such as Kool-Aid or Crystal Light, which will add color and flavor.
- For a natural tint, add 1/4 teaspoon (1.5 grams) of beet root powder.
- Add the lip balm to a small container to cool. Stick it in an old lip balm container, a small mint tin, or anything else you have on hand. Let it cool overnight or stick it in the fridge to cool faster.[13]
- It's ready when the lip balm has cooled and solidified.
- This should last several months at room temperature.
- If you don't have coconut oil, try shea butter, cocoa butter, or petroleum jelly.
- You can substitute extracts like vanilla extract for essential oil, though it might not mix in as well.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful when handling hot pots and bowls. Always use oven mitts!
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Making a Simple Honey Lip Balm - Shea butter
- Raw honey
- Essential oil
- Small pot or microwaveable bowl
- Spoon
[Edit]Creating Fruity Gelatin Lip Balm - Coconut oil
- Gelatin powder
- Essential oil, optional
- Microwaveable bowl
- Spoon
[Edit]Mixing a Hydrating Lip Balm - Castor oil
- Shea butter
- Coconut oil
- Essential oils or drink mix powder
- Small pot or microwaveable bowl
- Spoon
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Keep Pests Out of Your Home Posted: 05 Aug 2020 09:00 AM PDT Keeping your home in good condition is tough work, and pests like insects and rodents can come in and undo all of it in an instant. The best way to remove the threat of pests is to stop them from coming into your home in the first place. By keeping your home clean and storing your food properly, you can deter insects and rodents to keep your home in tip top shape. [Edit]Cleaning Your Home - Clean up right away after meals. The longer you leave food out on your table or countertops, the more likely it is that pests will come and find it. Try to clean up after yourself right away to take away the food source in your home.[1]
- If you don't have time to fully clean your dishes, you can give them a quick rinse to get rid of most of the food residue.
- Take out your trash whenever it gets full. You don't have to take your trash out every day, but you should try to bring it out to your large garbage can whenever you notice that it's full. Pests love trash, and they'll be attracted to the smells inside of your garbage can.[2]
- Taking out your trash regularly also helps to keep your home odor-free.
- Consider using a trash can with a lid to make it harder for pests to get inside.
- Rinse out your recyclables before recycling them. Jars, cans, and tubs often have food residue left in the bottom that pests can eat. Before you put your items in the recycling, give them a quick rinse to remove most of the food. Then, you can put them in your recycling can outside.[3]
- Rinsing your recyclables will also help eliminate odors.
- Wipe crumbs out of your cabinets and off countertops. As you clean your kitchen, use a damp rag to wipe crumbs off of any flat surfaces and into the garbage. Try to avoid swiping them into small crevices, like the gap between the stove and the wall.[4]
- Crumbs are easy pickings for pests, especially when they're in hard to reach places.
- Make sure you regularly inspect your cabinets for fallen crumbs.
- If there are any food scraps in your drain, clean those out as well.
- Sweep up food debris that falls on the floor. It's easy to wipe crumbs onto the floor and forget about them, but this can lead to more insects and rodents in your home. After you're done cleaning your kitchen, grab a broom and a dustpan to quickly sweep up any leftover crumbs that might be on the floor. Then, empty the dustpan into the garbage.[5]
- Try to sweep your kitchen at least once a week.
- Clean out your pet food bowls once a day. Pet food is a great source of nutrition for insects and rodents, so they'll often flock to it. Once your pet has eaten, try to make sure there aren't any crumbs left in the bowl by rinsing it out with water.[6]
- Avoid using an automated feeder that has food in it constantly, as it can attract pests.
- Rake up yard debris around your home. Grass clippings, fallen leaves, and branches all make cozy homes for pests to nest in. Grab a rake and make a few piles, then put the debris into your yard debris container, if you have one. If you don't, try to make piles of yard debris as far away from your home as you can.[7]
- If you use a lawn mower to trim your grass, consider using the bag attachment to easily collect grass clippings as you cut them.
[Edit]Storing Food Securely - Put your food in cans, jars, or airtight containers. Bugs and rodents can easily chew through plastic and cardboard. If you're storing food for more than a few days, try to put it in a metal can, a glass jar, or an airtight container with a lid to keep the pests out.[8]
- Try to purchase food items that are already in cans or jars to make this easier.
- Seal large bags of pet food in a garbage can with a lid. If you have a big container of cat or dog food, place it inside of a metal garbage can and put a lid on it. You can open it up each time you need to scoop out some food, but make sure you put the lid back on every time.[9]
- Pests love pet food, and they'll flock to it if it's left open.
- Keep perishable food in the fridge or freezer. It's super hard for bugs and rodents to get into a refrigerator. Keep as much food as you can in your fridge or freezer for an easy way to seal it and deter pests. Storing your food in the fridge can also make it last longer, so it's a win-win situation. [10]
- Items that could get soggy in the fridge, like crackers or cereal, can stay in your pantry or cabinets.
[Edit]Pest-Proofing Your Home - Attach screens to your doors and windows. Measure the area of your doors and windows, then purchase some wire screens to pop into place. The screens will help deter insects so you can leave your doors and windows open for fresh air without worrying about bugs.[11]
- Some bugs, like fruit flies, are so small that they can fit through wire screens.
- Fill any cracks around your doors or windows with silicone caulk. Take a look at the areas around your windows and your doors. If you notice any gaps or you can see through to the outside, grab a bottle of silicone caulk and squeeze it into the open areas. Let the caulk dry for about 1 hour to fill in the gaps and stop insects from crawling in.[12]
- Sealing the gaps in your doors and windows will also make your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.
- Repair any leaky faucets or pipes. If you notice your sink or pipes have a leak in them, contact a professional plumber right away. Leaky pipes and sinks are a great water source for pests, so they'll gather around any water droplets they can find.[13]
- You can also cover your drains with a rubber drain cover when they're not in use to deter pets from crawling up through the pipes.
- Clean out your gutters once a year. Grab a ladder and lean it against the side of your home. While wearing gloves, gently scoop out the leaf litter and debris in your gutters to keep them clean. Try to do this about once a year in the spring to remove all the clutter from winter.[14]
- Dirty gutters provide warm homes for rodents and insects, and they also disrupt the flow of water down to your drain pipe.
- If you don't feel confident standing on a ladder or cleaning your gutters, contact a professional to do it for you.
- Trim trees and bushes so they aren't touching your home. If you have any large shrubs that touch the sides of your home, grab a pair of loppers or pruners and trim them until the branches no longer touch your siding. If there are any tree branches touching your home, talk to a professional about cutting them away from your home.[15]
- Trees and shrubs house a lot of pests, and they could be using your home as a second nesting or feeding area.
- Try to clean your kitchen after every meal to avoid attracting pests.
[Edit]Warnings - If your home becomes infested with pests, contact a professional pest control company.[16]
- Avoid using bug bombs or foggers inside your home, as they can cause respiratory issues in humans.[17]
[Edit]References |
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