| How to Glue Hair Extensions Posted: 09 Dec 2020 12:00 AM PST Glue-in extensions can be a great way to add extra length and volume to your hair, or just to try a new style. If you don't want to spend the money at a salon, you can purchase extensions, or wefts, and hair bonding glue from a beauty supply store. Then, you can either apply them yourself or ask a friend for help! [Edit]Preparing Your Hair - Choose extensions made from human hair. Synthetic hair looks unnaturally shiny and won't blend as well into your natural hair color, so it's best to opt for extensions made from 100% human hair. If you can find them, choose extensions that match your hair's natural texture[1]
- In addition to not looking as good, synthetic hair can actually cause a serious allergic reaction in some people.
- With extensions, you get what you pay for. You don't have to spend a fortune, but you'll get a more natural result if you save up for higher-quality wefts. Human hair extensions will also last longer than synthetic hair extensions.
- Select white bonding glue for lighter hair or black glue for dark hair. Your extensions shouldn't show through your hair, but they'll blend more naturally if the glue matches the color of the extensions. Hair bonding glue is generally available in either white or black, so opt for white glue if your hair is light blonde to medium brown, or choose black glue if your hair is dark brown to black.[2]
- If you're not sure what type of glue to use, you can ask a sales associate at the same place you buy your extensions.
- Trim the extensions to the length you want. Hair extensions come in lengths ranging from . If you do want to cut them yourself, hold each weft up to your head at about the spot where you think it will lay, and look in the mirror to determine the length you want. Mark this spot with your fingers, then trim them with sharp scissors.[3]
- If you're adding the extensions just for extra volume, cut them to the same length as your hair. If you want to add length, your extensions should be cut longer than your natural hair.
- Treat your extensions like your own hair if you color them yourself. You can color extensions made from human hair yourself, but it's best to use semi- or demi-permanent colors because they're not as damaging. Lay them flat and apply the hair color, attempting to match the color to the ends of your hair, rather than the roots.
- If you want your extensions to look really believable, take them to your hair stylist and have them cut and colored professionally.
- Do not attempt to dye synthetic hair extensions, as they can be ruined.
- Wash, deep condition, and dry your hair before applying the track. The hair bonding glue will adhere better to your hair if it's free from any oils, so be sure to shampoo your hair thoroughly. In addition, your natural hair will be hidden under the extensions for as long as you have them in. Deep conditioning your hair in advance will help your locks stay nourished and healthy.[4]
- Your hair should be completely dry before you apply extensions, so either blow dry it or allow it to air dry.
- Gently detangle your hair and the extensions with a comb. You'll get a more even application if the extensions lie straight on your hair, so be sure both your hair and the weft are free of tangles.
- The extensions are made to be treated like real hair, so although you should be gentle, it's okay to comb them the same way you would your natural hair.
- It may help to lay the extensions flat while you're detangling them.
- If you have curly hair, it may be easier to detangle your hair before you dry it.
[Edit]Attaching the Extensions - Section the top part of your hair and clip it up. Use a rat-tail comb to draw a line on either side of your part, from your hairline all the way back to your crown. This should create a rectangular section of hair around your part. Pin this section up with clips or a hair tie.[5]
- If you part your hair in the middle, the section should be at the center of your scalp.
- If you prefer a side part, the section should be off-center.
- Use your comb to create a U-shaped part above the nape of your neck. Start a little below one of your ears, then follow the natural contour of your head in a U-shape around to your other ear. Leave about [6]
- Make the part as clean as possible, because you don't want stray hairs getting into your glue.
- Pull the hair above the part up and clip it out of the way. You should be left with a section of hair above the nape of your neck and stretching from ear to ear. This piece of hair will hide your extensions in the back when you pull your hair up into a ponytail.[7]
- You'll need to undo the rest of your hair after you apply the first track, so it's best to hold the hair up using a banana clip or a similar technique that's easy to remove.
- Cut the track the width of the part you just created. Hold the weft against your scalp about away from your hairline, then stretch it to the other side to away from your hairline. Use your thumb to mark the place where your extension should end as you pull the weft away from your head.[8]
- Cut the weft with scissors, then hold the extension piece up to double-check the width.
- You want to leave the extensions at least from your hairline because the piece of hair that's left will hide the extensions if you pull your hair back.
- Lay the track flat on a table and apply a line of glue all the way down. The side of the track with the hair attached should be face-down. Apply the glue in small increments until the entire track is covered.[9]
- There should be enough glue to coat the weft but not drip off.
- Blow dry the glue on high or medium for several seconds. This will help the glue become tacky so it will adhere to your hair. If the glue is too wet when you apply the extension, the glue will drip down the strands of hair, causing a messier application.[10]
- Touch the glue to make sure it's neither runny nor dry. It should be about 60-70% dry when you're finished drying it.
- Some hair stylists will also apply a strong hold hairspray at this stage and then blow dry your hair.
- If you're using synthetic hair, make sure your blowdryer is on the cool setting.
- Press the extension onto your hair about from the root. The line of the track should run slightly below the part you made near the nape of your neck. Do not apply glue on your scalp. [11]
- If you apply the extension directly to your scalp, it can stunt the growth of your hair and lead to hair damage.
- Remember to leave the hair at least away from your hairline.
- If you find that your extension wasn't cut long enough, just snip a little piece and apply it using the same method.
- Blow dry the track again for another 30-60 seconds. This will finish drying the glue so the extension will stay attached to your hair. To check whether the glue is dry, gently tug on the extensions. If they move, continue drying them.[12]
- If you opted for synthetic extensions, you may want to use the cool setting on your hair dryer.
- Draw a part above the first one and apply another track. The width of your sections can vary based on how thick you want your extensions to be. If you're primarily hoping to add volume, space them so they're a little closer.[13]
- Use the same technique to apply the second extension as you did the first.
- Continue adding extensions this way until you reach your ears. Once your part falls above your ears, your U-shape will start near your temple, then will reach back towards your crown and circle around towards your other temple.[14]
- You'll still follow the same application technique, but your extensions will be a little longer since they're reaching further around.
- This wide U-shape will mimic the natural fall of your hair and should make the finished result look more natural.
- Place your last extension around the rectangular shape you made at the beginning of the process.
- Unclip the top section of hair and gently comb it down. This top section of your hair should completely hide your extensions, so you're ready to enjoy your glamorous new look![15]
- When you're combing out your hair, be sure not to push the comb into your extensions. Gently comb just along the surface of the hair to smooth it out.
[Edit]Caring for Your Extensions - Treat your extensions the way you would your real hair. Shampooing your extensions can loosen them up, so you may want to hold off on shampooing your hair until you are ready for the extensions to come out. You should brush or comb them regularly, but be careful when you're combing your hair. Do not place the comb directly onto the glue or you may pull out your extensions, and maybe even some of your own hair.[16]
- You can heat style extensions made from real hair, although you should limit how much you do so, or your extensions may start to look damaged and messy.
- Just like with your regular hair, you can spray your extensions with a heat protectant to help prevent damage due to styling.[17]
- Keep oil away from your scalp. Don't apply conditioner directly on your roots, and avoid putting hair oil near your extensions. Oil will dissolve the glue, making your extensions fall out before you're ready.[18]
- Don't neglect your real hair. Since your natural hair is hidden by your weave, it can be easy to forget about it. However, your hair may become matted or break off if you don't take care of it. Make sure to wash, condition, and detangle your real hair while you're caring for your extensions.[19]
- To detangle your real hair, gently lift the extension and comb out the shorter pieces of your own hair.
- Apply an oil-based solvent when you want to take out the extensions. Saturate your scalp and the bonded wefts thoroughly with scalp oil or silicone spray so the glue completely softens. You can then gently slide the wefts off of your real hair. If there is any glue residue left on your hair and scalp, apply the solvent to a fine-toothed comb and use it to gently remove the glue.[20]
- You should usually take out your extensions after about 3 weeks, but if you're experiencing scalp pain or excess shedding, take them out sooner.
- Wait a week or two before you apply new extensions. Overuse of extensions can cause loss of hair due to the pulling and extra weight on the hair strand. Give your hair a break once you take out the extensions.[21]
- Glue-in extensions work best on thick or coarse hair. If your hair is very thin, you may prefer another method.
[Edit]Warnings - Do not apply glue directly to your scalp.
- Do not use any glue other than hair bonding glue to attach your extensions.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make Bedspreads Posted: 08 Dec 2020 04:00 PM PST If you're tired of searching for a bedspread that matches your style, sew your own unique spread. Bedspreads are great projects for sewers with a little experience since you can truly customize the look. All you need is fabric, batting, a sewing machine, and about an hour to create a hand-sewn bedspread. [Edit]Cutting the Materials - Buy stylish fabric to fit the measurements of your bed. Although you can find narrower bolts, choose a comfortable fabric that's at least wide regardless of the bedspread size. For an easy spread, buy 2 sets of flat sheets that fit your bed. Choose a fabric that you can machine wash and dry. Cotton, wool, or acrylic blends are all popular fabrics for bedspreads and they wear well. To use fabric from the bolt, buy:[1]
- Twin and full: for the top and for the bottom
- Queen: for the top and for the bottom
- King: for the top and for the bottom
- Cut 2 or 3 panels of fabric for each side of the bedspread. Since your fabric bolt is wide, sew 2 panels together for each side of a twin or full-size bedspread. For a queen or king, use 3 horizontal panels for each side.[2]
- Cut the panels long for twin or full-sized bedspreads.
- Make each panel long for queen or king-sized bedspreads.
- Line up the panels and use fusible bonding tape to iron them together. If you're making a twin or full-sized spread, place 2 of the long panels next to each other pattern-side up so the panels line up. For a queen or twin-sized spread, lay 3 of the panels together pattern-side up so the long sides touch. Then, lay a strip of fusible bonding tape along 1 side of each panel where it touches the other panel. Overlap the other panel and iron it so they fuse together.[3]
- If you don't want raw edges showing, tuck the side of the top panel under by before you iron it onto the other panel.
- If you're using fabric with a pattern, line up the pattern before you join the panels.
- Sew the top fabric panels together. Take the panel pieces to your sewing machine and arrange them so the pattern faces down. Zigzag stitch down the side of the panels where you fused them with the bonding tape. Repeat this for the other panel if you're making a queen or king-sized bedspread.[4]
- Use thread that matches the color of your fabric so it doesn't stand out.
- If you're using thick fabric, trim the excess fabric from the seam so your bedspread isn't bulky.
- Cut the fabric piece to fit the size of your bed. Spread the assembled fabric flat and get out fabric chalk and a yardstick. Mark the dimensions on the fabric and use scissors to cut out the top fabric piece. Cut the piece:[5]
- Sew the bottom panels together to make the underside of the bedspread. Set aside the top piece while you repeat the steps using the fabric that you chose for the bottom of the bedspread. Arrange 2 or 3 panel pieces pattern-side up and fuse them together. Then, make straight stitches down the sides of the panels to join them as you did for the top fabric piece.[6]
- Once you've finished preparing the top and bottom fabric pieces, you'll just need to get out enough batting for filling the comforter.
- Unroll quilt batting and cut it to the same size as the bedspread. Buy a package of quilt batting according to your bed size and unroll it on your work surface. Spread 1 of your bedspread fabric pieces on the batting and cut the excess batting from the sides so the batting is the same size as the fabric. For a warmer blanket, use more than 1 layer of batting.[7]
- You can buy batting made from cotton, polyester, or bamboo, for instance. Cotton and bamboo are great natural choices, while polyester is easy to find and inexpensive. Wool batting is a good choice if you want a very warm bedspread.
- Keep in mind that more layers are more likely to shift around so it's important to sew over the blanket to keep the batting in place.
[Edit]Sewing a Basic Bedspread - Stack the batting on the 2 fabric pieces and pin the sides in place. Lay the batting piece flat on your work surface and put the top bedspread piece directly on it with the pattern facing up. Line up the sides with the batting. Then, place the bottom bedspread piece on top so the pattern faces down and line up the sides. Insert sewing pins along the edges of the bedspread so the pins go through all 3 layers.[8]
- Put the sewing pins about every along the sides.
- Sew straight stitches around 3 sides of the bedspread. Take the bedspread to the sewing machine and sew from the raw edge. Make straight stitches down the long side, 1 short end, and up the other long side.[9]
- It's important to leave 1 of the short ends open so you can turn the bedspread right-side out.
- Turn the bedspread right-side out and pin the raw edge closed. Reach into the bedspread and grab hold of the fabric. Flip it out so the batting is in the middle and the fashion fabric encloses it. Then, smooth out the bedspread so the batting is even and tuck the raw edges under by . Insert sewing pins every along the last side.[10]
- Before you pin the edge of the spread, push into the corners with your fingers or a knitting needle to give them sharp definition.
- Top stitch around the entire bedspread so the edges lay flat. Start sewing along the unfinished edge that you just pinned and make straight stitches that are away from the edge. Keep topstitching around the other sides that you already finished and keep close to the edge to stabilize it.[11]
- Remember to remove sewing pins as you work so you don't damage your sewing machine.
- Stitch across the bedspread if you want to secure the batting. Batting can clump a little after you wash and dry the bedspread a few times. To keep it in place, straight stitch across the bedspread in any design you like. To make a simple grid, sew 3 or 4 straight lines across the length of the bedspread. Leave an equal amount of space between each line. Then, make 5 or 6 straight lines across the short side of the spread with equal space between them.[12]
- If you'd like the topstitching to stand out instead of blend in, use a different color of thread. For example, if you have a cream-colored bedspread, use burgundy or cornflower blue thread that compliments the fabric.
- Attach a ruffle to the ends and sides of your bedspread for a frilled look. Buy a dust ruffle that fits your bed and cut away the flat smooth part that covers the top of the bed. Lay the assembled bedspread so the back faces up and line up the raw edges of the ruffle with the sides of the spread so the ruffles extend out. Then, use a zigzag stitch to sew the ruffle to the sides of the bedspread.[13]
- Cut a slit in each corner to make a fitted split corner bedspread. Bedspreads usually shift around a little, but if you want yours to stay in place, make it hug the corners of your bed. Lay your assembled bedspread on the bed so the sides fall evenly and cut a diagonal line from a bottom corner up to the top of the mattress. Then, tuck the raw edges under by and hem them before repeating this for each corner of the spread.[14]
- If you don't want to eyeball the cutting, trace the line with fabric chalk so you have a guideline.
- If you're concerned that the fabric will shrink, wash and dry it before sewing the bedspread.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Fabric
- Fusible bonding tape
- Quilt batting
- Scissors
- Ruler
- Sewing machine
- Sewing pins
- Iron and ironing board
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Fix a Rubbing Door Posted: 08 Dec 2020 08:00 AM PST We know that it's pretty frustrating when you can't open a door smoothly because it gets stuck in the frame. Your door might rub against the frame if it's sagging or when it's just a little too large, but luckily there are some really easy repairs. Adjusting your hinges will solve most of your problems for any type of door, but you may need to trim it if those don't work. We'll walk you through some of the most common solutions so your door opens and closes smoothly! [Edit]Simple Hinge Fixes - Tighten the screws in the hinges if they feel loose. Over time, the screws in your hinges might come loose and cause your door to sag.[1] If the top corner on the latch side of the door scrapes against the frame, then tighten the top hinge. For a door that rubs against the bottom of the frame on the latch side, then screw in the bottom hinge more.[2]
- Make sure you use a screwdriver that properly fits into the screws. If you use one that's too large, you could strip the screw and make it more difficult to use.
- You can check for loose hinges and screws by opening the door halfway and pulling the handle straight up. That way, you can see which hinges move around.
- If the screws don't stay tightened because the holes are stripped, keep reading on for a simple fix.
- Place a screw in the top hinge if the jamb bulges. Some builders use screws that are long, so it's more likely for the jamb to come loose. A longer screw will pull the jamb in tighter so it's not scraping the door. Open your door and place a shim that's thick on the floor underneath it. Take out any one of the screws from the top hinge using a screwdriver. Fit a wood or deck screw into the hole and screw it in until it's flush with the hinge.[3]
- The longer screw will pull the door jamb back against the frame so your door doesn't rub against it.
- Switch a bent top hinge with the straight bottom one if your door sags. Over time, a heavier door can slightly bend the top hinge and cause it to sag. If this happens, open your door and tap out the pins in the hinges with a hammer and screwdriver. Pull the door straight out of the frame so you can access the hinges. Unscrew the top and bottom hinges from both the door and the frame. Reattach the bottom hinge on top and use the slightly bent one on the bottom.[4]
- The bottom hinge usually stays straighter since it's not supporting the weight of the door as much.
- If your hinge is extremely deformed or broken, then you'll have to replace it entirely.
- Fill in stripped holes with a golf tee and wood glue if the hinges still feel loose. Tap the hinge pins out from your door using a hammer and screwdriver. Pull your door straight out of the frame. Then, unscrew the hinges to take them off of the frame. Cover a wooden golf tee with wood glue and push it as far into the loose screw hole as you can. Score the tee with a utility knife and break it off so it's flush with the frame. Once the glue dries, install the hinges and screw into the golf tee.[5]
- If you've already tried tightening your hinges and they're still loose, this fix will give the screws a firmer grip.
- Put a shim under the hinges when a door hangs unevenly. Remove the hinge pins from the door and lift it out of the frame. Next, unscrew the hinges from the frame, but leave the ones attached to your door. Trace the shape of the door hinge on a piece of cardboard and cut it out with a utility knife. Put the cardboard shim in the frame's mortise, which is the recessed area where you place the hinge. Set the hinge on top of the shim and screw it back in. Try reinstalling your door and checking if it opens and closes smoothly.[6]
- When it scrapes the bottom corner on the latch side, then shim the top hinge.
- If your door scrapes the top corner, add a shim behind the bottom hinge.
- If your door still rubs, you can add another shim under the hinge, but don't let the front of your hinge extend past the mortise. Otherwise, your door will get looser over time.
[Edit]Wood Door Trimming - Mark the area where the door rubs against the frame. If you're sure your hinges and door are hanging straight but it's still rubbing, then it's time to trim it smaller. Open and close your door a few times so you can find out where it's rubbing against the jamb. Draw a line on the side of the door where it's scraping along the frame.[7]
- Your door jamb should always have about of space on each side.
- If you have trouble finding where the door rubs against the frame, take a piece of cardboard that's about thick, and slide it in the crack between the door and the frame. Make your marks where the cardboard gets stuck.
- Remove the hinge pins to take the door out. Close your door and stand on the side where the hinge pins stick out from the frame. Position a screwdriver on the bottom of the pin and lightly tap it with a hammer so it pops out. Pull the pin out from the top of the hinge. Then remove the pin from the other hinge so you can slide your door out from the frame.[8]
- It doesn't matter which hinge pin you remove first.
- Take the hinges off of the door if you need to shorten the width. When your door is too wide for the frame, always trim from the side with the hinges since the latch mechanism can be hard to reinstall. Use a screwdriver to remove the hinges from the door and set them aside.[9]
- If your door rubs against the top or bottom, you don't need to take out any of the hardware.
- Store the hinges and screws in a cup or plastic bag so you don't misplace any of the pieces.
- Run a planer along the edges if you only need to remove . Hold the door steady between your legs or lay it across some sawhorses so it doesn't shift around. Set your planer against the edge that you're trimming and apply light pressure as you push it along the wood. If you're planing the latch side, follow along with the wood grain. For the top or bottom edges, work from the edges toward the center. Only remove about of wood at a time so you don't cut off too much.[10]
- If you apply a lot of pressure to the planer, you could gouge deeper into the wood and damage your door.
- Hollow-core doors have about of solid wood at the top and bottom that you can trim.[11]
- Test the door to see if it swings freely. After you trim your door, reattach any hardware that you removed and position the door back in the frame. Push the pins back through the hinges on the door so it hangs freely. Try opening and closing the door to see if it moves easily. If it doesn't rub the edge anymore, then you can move on.[12]
- If your door still rubs the frame, make note of where it still scrapes and take it down again. Use your planer to smooth out any edges that are still raised.
- Paint or refinish the cut edge of the door. The cut edge of your door might stand out if the natural wood is a different color. Take the door back down by removing the hinge pins. Use the same paint or stain you used on the door so it blends in. Apply 1–2 coats and let it dry completely so your door looks uniform.[13]
- If you cut the top or bottom of the door, you should still refinish the edge even when you can't see it. Otherwise, moisture could get into the door and cause it to swell again.
- Rehang the door back in the frame. Hold the door back in the jamb so its hinges line up with the ones in the frame. Push the pins back through the slots in the hinge so your door stays secured in place. Your door should open and close smoothly when you're finished![14]
- Sometimes doors can swell when it's humid out since they absorb moisture. Try running an air conditioner or dehumidifier to see if it helps your problem.[15]
[Edit]Warnings - Always use caution when you work with power tools so you don't get injured.
- If your door still doesn't work properly, your foundation may have settled and made your frame crooked. Call a professional foundation repair specialist to check the problem.[16]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Simple Hinge Fixes - Screwdriver
- wood or deck screws
- Golf tee
- Wood glue
- Utility knife
- Cardboard
- Pencil
[Edit]Door Trimming - Pencil
- Hammer
- Screwdriver
- Planer
- Circular saw
- Utility knife
- Paint or stain
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
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