| How to Identify a Labrador Retriever Posted: 01 Apr 2021 01:00 AM PDT Labrador Retrievers are working dogs, and members of the sporting group.[1] They're also the most popular breed in the United States, and they make great family pets. This wikiHow will provide you with some information on identifying whether or not a dog is a Labrador Retriever. - Know that there are two variations of Labrador Retrievers, the American Labrador Retriever, and the English Labrador Retriever. Though they aren't recognized as separate breeds by the American Kennel Club [2], there are a few differences between them in appearance, which will be discussed later on in the article, but the main difference between them is that American Labrador Retrievers are generally bred for hunting, whereas English Labrador Retrievers are generally bred for show (though some American Labrador Retrievers may be bred for show, and some English Labrador Retrievers may be bred for hunting). [3]
[Edit]Noticing the Body Structure - Check the size of the dog. Labrador Retrievers, on average, are medium-sized dogs. Male Labrador Retrievers are generally anywhere from tall, and they usually weigh anywhere from , whereas female Labrador Retrievers generally are a little smaller, and generally anywhere from tall, and they usually weigh anywhere from . [4]
- It will generally reach this height between the ages of 6 and 12 months, but it may continue growing until it reaches the age of 2. [5]
- American Labrador Retrievers are usually slightly shorter, but slimmer than English Labrador Retrievers. [6]
- Notice the dog's ears. A Labrador Retriever's ears are far back, and hang relatively close to their head. [7]
- Check the eyes of the dog. The eyes are medium-sized, relatively far apart, and their color varies, depending on the type of Labrador Retriever. Black and Yellow Labrador Retrievers usually have brown eyes with a black eye rim, where as Chocolate Labrador Retrievers will usually have either brown or hazel eyes, with a brown eye rim. [8]
- The eyes also give off the appearance of the dog being friendly, and this is one of the dog's distinguishing features. [9]
- Notice if the dog has a black or brown nose. Black or Yellow Labrador Retrievers will generally have black noses, whereas Chocolate Labrador Retrievers will usually have a brown nose. Labrador Retrievers won't typically have a pink or uncolored nose. [10]
- Look at the dog's tail. This is regarded as one of the identifying characteristics of the dog, due to its structure. The tail is thick at the bottom, and gradually gets thinner towards its tip. Because of this unique structure, the tail is often referred to as an "otter" tail. [11]
- Tails of Labrador Retrievers are not docked. [12]
- This "otter" tail is usually more noticeable in English Labrador Retrievers. [13]
- Check the overall body structure of the dog. Labrador Retrievers have a strong build, and a relatively normal gait, with their legs appearing to be in a parallel line as they're walking. [14]
- The American Labrador Retriever will generally have a longer, thinner neck, as well as a more narrow head. [15]
[Edit]Looking at the Coat - Look for one of 3 colors. As stated earlier on, Labrador Retrievers will generally either have a black, brown ("chocolate"), or yellow coat. [16]
- While these coats may occasionally vary in shade, the Labrador Retriever's coat is generally a solid color rather than a combination of different colors. [17]
- See if the dog has a short, dense, hard coat. It also has a weather-resistant soft undercoat (which you likely cannot see), giving it protection from all types of weather. Both of these things are typical of Labrador Retrievers. [18]
- An English Labrador Retriever will generally have a thicker coat than an American Labrador Retriever. [19]
- Check for frequent shedding. Labrador Retrievers tend to shed more frequently than other dogs, particularly during two or three weeks in the spring. [20]
- This increase in shedding is likely because of the second "undercoat" that Labrador Retrievers have. [21]
[Edit]Behavior and Temperament - Notice the dog's friendly, affectionate demeanor. Labrador Retrievers are perhaps most well-known for being very friendly and affectionate, and this is one of the things that makes them a great choice for a family pet. [22]
- Look for high energy in the dog. Despite the fact that they're friendly and affectionate, Labrador Retrievers have a lot of energy and love to play. Because of this high energy, they'll likely need a lot of exercise.[23]
- Though an English Labrador Retriever will most definitely still have quite a bit of energy, American Labrador Retrievers will generally have more. [24]
- Try a walk or a game of fetch/retrieve if you're looking for ways to give your Labrador Retriever exercise. [25] Some labs love tug-of war if you give them something worthwhile - but each dog is different.
- Anticipate some potential mouthing. Mouthing is basically when the dog chews lightly on something, sometimes your hands, or long sleeves. Be sure that you give your dog plenty of toys to help lessen the occurrence of this. [26]
- Notice a love of food. Labrador retrievers generally love to eat a lot of food, and they are more prone to becoming overweight because of this. [27]
- Look for focus from the dog, especially when following a scent. Since Labrador Retrievers are generally bred to be working dogs, if they find a scent, they'll likely stay focused on following it until it finds where it was coming from. [28]
- They're also known to be very intelligent, for the same reason that they're a working dog.[29]
- You may occasionally hear Labrador Retrievers be referred to as "Labs" or "Labradors" for short.
- If you're wondering about whether or not your own dog is a Labrador Retriever, consider a dog DNA test.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Wear Lashes Without Glue Posted: 31 Mar 2021 05:00 PM PDT If you love the look of false lashes but you aren't a fan of the sticky, clumpy, smelly lash glue that comes with it—you're not alone! Unfortunately, homemade lash adhesives aren't safe to use, but there are products out there that can replace your lash glue once and for all. Try out a few different methods to see which one works best for your makeup routine to look your best every time you walk out the door. [Edit]Magnetic Lashes - Hold the top lash layer between 2 fingers. Magnetic lashes work by pinching your natural lashes in between 2 layers of falsies. Pick up the top lash layer and hold it in between your pointer finger and your thumb for the best mobility.[1]
- If you're having trouble, try using tweezers instead.
- Balance the top lash on top of your natural lashes. Bring the top lash layer up to your natural lash line and get it as close to your top lashes as possible. If you can, let go of the fake lashes and let them balance on your natural lashes.[2]
- This might be a little bit tricky, but they should stay in place long enough so you can apply the bottom layer.
- Press the bottom lash layer up toward the top lash layer. Grab the bottom layer of the fake lashes in between your 2 fingers and bring it up to your eye. Start pushing the bottom layer of the lashes up underneath your natural lashes to connect the fake lashes together at your lash line.[3]
- You might have to try this a few times, especially the first time you apply! That's okay—it will definitely get easier as you practice.
- Remove the lashes by pulling the layers apart. When it's time to take your makeup off, grab one of the layers of lashes by the inner corner and pull. The lashes will separate as you take them off, and you can store them and wear them again.[4]
- If you used mascara on top of your fake lashes, wipe them down with makeup remover before putting them away.
[Edit]Magnetic Liner - Swipe the liner onto your upper lash line. Magnetic liners look just like a liquid eyeliner pen. Start from the inner corner of your lashes and swipe outward to cover your whole upper lash line.[5]
- You can use the liner on top of eyeshadow and other eyeliner if you want to.
- Press the false lashes onto your liner. Grab your magnetic lashes and hole one in between 2 fingers. Press your lashes on top of your natural lash line, then use your fingers to adjust them if you need to.[6]
- If your lashes are too long, use scissors to trim them down to the shape of your eye.
- Peel the lashes off when you're done with them. At the end of the day, pull the lashes up at the inner corner and slowly pull them off your eyelid. You can save magnetic lashes as long as they aren't caked in mascara or eyeshadow.[7]
- If your liner isn't coming off, use an oil-based makeup remover on a cotton swab to gently cleanse your eye area.
[Edit]Mascara Adhesive - Swipe the adhesive onto your upper lashes. Mascara adhesive looks exactly like a normal mascara wand applicator. Apply the adhesive to the underside of your upper lashes, just like you would a normal mascara.[8]
- You can only use mascara adhesive on your upper lashes, not your lower ones.
- Pick up a small section of lashes with tweezers. Most mascara adhesive kits come with individual lash sections instead of full false lashes sets. Use the eyelash tweezers to pick up one small section at a time.[9]
- The smaller sections will adhere much easier than heavy full sets of lashes.
- Press the lashes onto the underside of your upper lashes. Try to get the false lashes as close to your natural lash line as possible. Use the tweezers to adjust them if you need to until they look mostly natural.[10]
- If you need to, you can peel the false lashes off and try again.
- Keep adding lashes until you're happy with your look. You can add as many or as few of the small lash sets as you'd like! For a more natural look, stick to the outer corner of your eye; for a glam look, try filling in all of your lashes.[11]
- Only put the lash sets in a single layer; that way, they won't get too heavy to stay on your eye.
- Remove the lashes with makeup remover. When it's time to remove your makeup, press a cotton pad with makeup remover over your eyes. Then, use 2 fingers to gently pull the false lashes off your natural lashes. The adhesive is gentle enough that it shouldn't pull off any of your natural lashes.[12]
- You may be able to reuse your small lash sets if you can keep track of them.
[Edit]Self-Adhesive Lashes - Pinch one of the lashes with the applicator. Most self-adhesive lashes come with a plastic applicator that kind of looks like a set of tweezers. Use the applicator to grab the lashes so you don't have to touch them directly with your hands.[13]
- You can also use regular tweezers instead.
- Press the lashes onto your upper lash line. Try to get as close to your natural lash line as possible. The lashes already have an adhesive strip on them, so you don't need to add any glue beforehand.[14]
- It can be a little tough to line up your lashes perfectly the first time, so don't sweat it if you need to retry.
- Adjust the lashes with your fingers. Gently poke the lashes downward until they sit right at your lash line to blend them in. If the lashes are too long for your eyes, take them off and trim them before putting them back on.[15]
- If your lashes are peeling up in the inner corner, they're probably too long.
- Remove the lashes by peeling them off your lash line. At the end of the day, just take your lashes off by pulling them up by the inner corner. Self-adhesive lashes are reusable, but they tend to lose their stickiness after the third or fourth use.[16]
- If you notice your lashes coming off throughout the day, try to gently press them back onto your lash line using 1 finger.
- If you like the look of false lashes but you don't want to apply them every day, consider getting lash extensions.
[Edit]Warnings - Using homemade lash glues or adhesives can be very dangerous for your eye and eyelid area. You should only use products meant for your lashes to apply falsies.[17]
[Edit]References |
| How to Spot Clean Wool Posted: 31 Mar 2021 09:00 AM PDT So, you spilled something on your favorite wool sweater or blanket and now you don't know what to do? Don't stress — with the right cleaning solution and some patience, you can get many common types of stains out of wool. Wool is considered "self-cleaning" and is very naturally stain repellant. But, if you do manage to stain some wool, make sure you just spot-clean it rather than washing the whole item, which can damage the wool. [Edit]Choosing a Cleaning Solution - Spot-clean wool only if the item is not labeled dry-clean only. Look on the inside of the collar or elsewhere inside the garment if the item you want to spot clean is clothing. Check for the tag near one of the corners if the item is something like a blanket.[1]
- If the wool item is dry-clean only, do not try to spot clean it yourself. You may end up ruining the color or otherwise damaging it.
- Mix equal parts water and rubbing alcohol for alcoholic beverage stains. Stir or shake the liquids together in a container or a bowl. This can work on cocktail, brown liquor, and beer stains, for example.[2]
- Rubbing alcohol is less commonly known as surgical spirits.
- Use pure mineral spirits for oily and greasy stains, grass stains, and ink stains. Undiluted mineral spirits work on oily stains from things like butter, cooking oil, and sauces. It also works well for other greasy stains from things like makeup, lipstick, and shoe polish. Finally, it works on tough stains from things like grass and ink.[3]
- Mineral spirits are also known as white spirits, mineral turpentine, petroleum spirits, and paint thinner.
- Keep in mind that mineral spirits can cause minor skin irritation after prolonged exposure. Be careful not to get it on your hands when you're working with it or wear gloves to protect yourself.
- Combine equal parts rubbing alcohol and white vinegar for coffee stains. Mix the liquids together in a bowl or container. This also works for chocolate and tea stains, but you should treat them with pure mineral spirits first.[4]
- If the coffee stain is from a coffee that contains milk, treat the stain with undiluted mineral spirits first.
- Mix 3 parts rubbing alcohol with 1 part water for red wine or fruit juice stains. Combine the liquids in a bowl or a container and stir or shake them together to dilute the rubbing alcohol. This solution works well for stains from fruit-derived products.[5]
- This also works for stains from fruits themselves, such as if you bit into a ripe red plum and a bit of its juices sprayed onto your nice wool sweater.
- Treat blood stains with undiluted white vinegar. Vinegar helps break down and dissolve blood stains away. Keep in mind that dried blood is much harder to get out, even with vinegar.[6]
- Never try to wash blood out with warm or hot water, as this can just cause it to set even more into the wool. It's better to leave it alone until you can treat it with vinegar.
[Edit]Stain Treatment - Scrape off any caked-on substances with the edge of a spoon or butter knife. Gently scrape the edge of the utensil back and forth over the stain to get rid of stuck-on residues from food or other substances. Don't use anything sharp that could damage the wool.[7]
- If the stain is just from a liquid, skip this step.
- Dab fresh stains with a clean, dry paper towel or cloth to soak up excess liquid. Fold the paper towel or cloth up once or twice. Firmly press it against the stain and lift it up. Switch to a clean part of the paper towel or cloth and repeat the process until no more liquid is lifting off the wool.[8]
- Act as fast as possible if you have a fresh stain on your wool item to make it easier to remove.
- Test-blot your cleaning solution on an inconspicuous part of the wool. Dip a clean cloth into your chosen cleaning solution and wring out any excess moisture. Gently dab a part of the wool that you can't normally see to make sure the solution doesn't damage the color.[9]
- For example, if you're spot cleaning a sweater, test the solution on the inside of a sleeve.
- If the cleaning solution does alter the color of the wool, don't proceed. Get the wool item dry-cleaned instead.
- Blot the stain gently with the damp cloth until the stain lifts. Press the cloth soaked in the cleaning solution gently against the stain and lift it up. Repeat this process, dampening the cloth more as needed, until the stain disappears.[10]
- If you can't completely lift the stain, feel free to try different cleaning solutions. You might find that a combination of 2-3 different solutions does the trick!
- All the solutions we listed here are totally safe to use and you don't have to worry about them reacting with one another in a negative way.
- Wash items with wool soap and cold water if they are too dirty to spot-clean. Soak the item in a clean tub or bucket full of cold water with a bit of wool detergent. Very gently rub the soapy water into the dirty parts of the item with your hands to help lift stains.[11]
- It's typically best to hand-wash wool items instead of machine-washing them because some machine cycles can be rough on the wool. However, if you do want to wash something in a machine, choose the most gentle cycle and only use cold water.
[Edit]Rinsing, Deodorizing, and Drying - Blot spot-treated stains with cold water to remove the cleaning solution. Soak a fresh, clean, dry cloth in cold water. Dab the treated area several times to remove any residue from the cleaning solution you used.[12]
- You can also rinse a spot-treated area by holding that part of the wool under cool running water for a few seconds.
- Rinse hand-washed items thoroughly with cold water and a splash of vinegar. Fill a bucket or tub with cold water and pour a splash of white vinegar in. Dunk the wool item into the bucket and gently agitate it to rinse out the wool soap. Pour out the water when you see soap suds in it and repeat the process until the water runs clean.[13]
- If you machine-wash anything on a gentle, cold cycle, instead of washing by hand, the machine automatically does the rinsing for you.
- Spray wool with 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water if there are any bad odors. Pour the vinegar and water into a spray bottle and shake it to mix them. Mist the whole wool item with the solution to kill odors and freshen it up.[14]
- You can also do this any time your wool item gets a little musty. It doesn't have to be only after you spot clean a stain.
- Hang the item up or lay it flat and let it air dry. Lay heavy clothing items like thick sweaters and jackets flat on a drying rack to avoid misshaping them. Hang up light wool clothing and large items like blankets.[15]
- Never put wool garments or other items in a drying machine. You'll surely damage them this way!
- If your wool item has really old or stubborn stains, take it to a professional cleaner.
[Edit]Warnings - Never attempt to clean a wool item that's labelled as dry-clean only yourself.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Container or bowl
- Water
- Rubbing alcohol
- White vinegar
- Mineral spirits
- Clean cloths
- Spray bottle
[Edit]References |
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