| How to Weave a Basket Posted: 17 Feb 2022 12:00 AM PST There are lots of ways in which to make baskets, from willow to rope. The simplest basket to make, however, is the woven basket. Starting with an easy-to-work-with material, such as paper, will help you understand the process. Once you get the hang of it, you can move on to more complex baskets made from willow or reed. [Edit]Creating the Bottom - Cut colored paper into eight strips. Use a ruler to make the strips nice and straight. They can be all 1 color, or they can be 2 different colors. For example, you could have 4 pink strips and 4 blue strips. This will be enough to make a small, square basket. You can cut more strips to make a larger basket.[1]
- If you are making a larger basket, cut 2 extra strips for every that you would like to add.
- Construction paper will work the best, but you can also use thin plastic sheets, cardstock, felt, or thin cardboard.
- These methods won't work well for reed or willow because you need to prepare those materials differently.
- Arrange 4 strips side-by-side vertically. If you used 2 different colors, arrange them in an alternating pattern. For example: pink-blue-pink-blue. Make sure that the strips are almost touching. You will be adjusting the strips later on to eliminate any gaps.[2]
- You want just a sliver of space between the vertical strips because this will make weaving the horizontal strips through them easier.
- If you are making a larger basket, then add more vertical strips. For example, if you want a basket, then use 5 vertical strips total.
- Weave a fifth strip horizontally across the 4 vertical strips. Take 1 of your remaining 4 strips, then weave it over and under across the 4 vertical strips. Try to position it as close to the center of the vertical strips as possible.[3]
- Make sure that the horizontal strip is centered, too; you want an equal amount of paper sticking out to the first and last vertical strip.
- Repeat the process with the remaining 3 strips. If you used 2 colors for your strips, be sure to alternate them here as well. For example, if you used blue in your previous row, continue with a pink-blue-pink pattern.[4]
- If you are making a larger basket, then continue to add horizontal strips. For example, if you're making a basket, then add a fifth horizontal strip.
- Adjust the strips so that everything is centered and even. Slide the vertical strips closer together so that they are all touching. Next, slide the horizontal strips so that they are halfway down the vertical strips; make sure that they are touching as well. You will end up with a grid in the middle of your woven strips.
- There should be an equal amount of paper on each side of the grid.
- Glue down the corners on the grid. Starting at the top-left corner, lift the paper to expose the strip beneath it. Put a dab of glue on the bottom strip, then press the upper strip back down. Work your way around the grid until you are back where you started.[5]
- You just need to do the corners for right now. Don't worry about the top, bottom, and side edges.
- A glue stick will work just fine for paper, but if you are working with plastic or felt, hot glue will be the way to go.
- Fold the strips towards the center to create a box shape. Using the top edge of the grid as a guide, fold down the paper strips to crease them, then unfold them. Repeat this step for the remaining 3 sides of the grid. You'll end up with a sort of box shape.[6]
- Some of the strips may peel away from the bottom edge of your "box." Glue these down so that the edge is seamless.
[Edit]Adding the Sides - Cut four strips of paper. These should be all 1 color, but this can be different from the color(s) that you used to make the bottom of the basket. For example, if you used pink and blue previously, you could use purple here.[7]
- If you used more than 8 strips to make your base, count how many strips are on each edge, then add . This is how long your new strips should be in inches.
- If your paper is not long enough, tape or glue 2 strips together to make a longer strip.
- If you are making a bigger basket, then make 1 additional strip for every of height.
- Mark and fold your first strip every . You will end up with four segments and one segment. These 4 segments will make the 4 sides of your basket. The segment will allow you to connect the strip into a square.[8]
- If you used more strips to make your basket, it will be larger. Count how many strips are on 1 side. This is how far apart your marks will be.
- If you are working with a longer strip for a larger basket, you still want 4 equal-sized segments and one segment.
- Overlap and glue the ends together to form a square. Your strip should already be forming a rough square or pentagon shape. Take the 2 ends of your strip, and overlap them until they form a square shape. Secure the square with tape or glue.[9]
- The end of your strip should nestle into the fold that comes just before the segment.
- This square will create the first row on all 4 sides of your basket.
- Repeat the process for the remaining 3 pieces. Make and fold the strips into four segments and one segment. Overlap and glue the ends to turn them into squares. When you are done, you'll have 4 paper squares, including the first one.
- Each square will create 1 row for your basket.
- If you made a bigger basket, make more squares. If you want a shorter basket, however, you can skip this.
- Weave the basket's strips through the first square. Set the first square down on top of the grid so that it's nestled inside the strips. Take every other strip, and pull them so that they are now on the outside of your square. Do this for all 4 sides of the square.[10]
- This will complete 1 row.
- Repeat the process, reversing which strips go on the outside. This means that the strips that were on the inside of the first square, should now be on the outside of the second square.[11]
- Continue adding paper squares and weaving your strips around them until you reach the top.
- Each square that you add will make your basket taller. If your basket reaches the height you want, then stop adding squares.
[Edit]Finishing the Basket - Glue the top edges of the vertical strips down to the last square. Starting on the outside, peel back the vertical strips. Place a dab of glue on the exposed horizontal row, then press the strip back into place. Repeat this step for the inside of the basket.[12]
- A glue stick will work just fine. If you choose to use liquid glue, secure the paper with a paper clip until it dries. Use hot glue for felt or plastic.
- Your basket has vertical strips and horizontal strips. The vertical strips come from the base and sides of the basket. The horizontal strips come from the squares you made.
- Trim the vertical strips that are sticking out over the top of the basket. When you first cut your paper, you made the vertical strips a little longer than necessary to allow room for weaving. As such, you may have some excess material sticking out over the top of your last row. Trim these strips down until they are flush with the last, horizontal row.[13]
- Cut one strip of paper for the handle. If you made your basket multiple colors, then you can choose any of these colors for the handle. If your basket is all 1 color, then match the handle color to the basket.[14]
- If you made a different sized basket, measure the height of your basket. Multiply it by 3, then add .
- Tuck the handle into the basket so that the ends touch the base. Place the left end of the handle against the left side of the basket, and the right end against the right side of the basket. Make sure that both ends of the handle are on the inside of the basket, then slide them down until they hit the bottom of the basket.[15]
- If the handle is too long, cut the ends shorter. If the handle is too short, move it upwards.
- Use tape or clothespins to temporarily secure the handle in place.
- Secure the handle with glue. Pull away 1 side of the handle, coat it with glue, then press it back into place. Repeat the process for the other side of the handle. Alternatively, you can just weave both ends of the handle through the strips in the basket.[16]
- A glue stick will work just fine here, but liquid glue will be even better. If you made a felt or plastic basket, use hot glue.
- Use the basket with care. Most baskets are pretty delicate to begin with, but homemade baskets are even more fragile. Unless your basket is made from plastic or foam, you should avoid getting it wet. Also, don't carry anything too heavy inside your basket.
- A paper basket is great for kids' Easter baskets with plastic eggs.
- You can store heavier items in you basket, but you don't be able to carry your basket around; otherwise, it may break.
- If you want to get really straight lines, use a paper slicer or a metal ruler and craft blade to cut your paper.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Construction paper
- Ruler
- Scissors
- Glue
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Bar Graph in Excel Posted: 16 Feb 2022 04:00 PM PST It's easy to spruce up data in Excel and make it easier to interpret by converting it to a bar graph. A bar graph is not only quick to see and understand, but it's also more engaging than a list of numbers. This wikiHow article will teach you how to make a bar graph of your data in Microsoft Excel. [Edit]Adding Data - Open Microsoft Excel. It resembles a white "X" on a green background.
- A blank spreadsheet should open automatically, but you can go to File > New > Blank if you need to.
- If you want to create a graph from pre-existing data, instead double-click the Excel document that contains the data to open it and proceed to the next section.
- Add labels for the graph's X- and Y-axes. To do so, click the A1 cell (X-axis) and type in a label, then do the same for the B1 cell (Y-axis).
- For example, a graph measuring the temperature over a week's worth of days might have "Days" in A1 and "Temperature" in B1.
- Enter data for the graph's X- and Y-axes. To do this, you'll type a number or word into the A or B column to apply it to the X- or Y- axis, respectively.
- For example, typing "Monday" into the A2 cell and "70" into the B2 field might show that it was 70 degrees on Monday.
- Finish entering your data. Once your data entry is complete, you're ready to use the data to create a bar graph.
[Edit]Creating a Graph - Select all of your data. To do so, click the A1 cell, hold down , and then click the bottom value in the B column. This will select all of your data.
- If your graph uses different column letters, numbers, and so on, simply remember to click the top-left cell in your data group and then click the bottom-right while holding .
- Click the tab. It's in the editing ribbon, just right of the Home tab.
- Click the "Bar chart" icon. This icon is in the "Charts" group below and to the right of the Insert tab; it resembles a series of three vertical bars.
- Click a bar graph option. The templates available to you will vary depending on your operating system and whether or not you've purchased Excel, but some popular options include the following:
- 2-D Column - Represents your data with simple, vertical bars.
- 3-D Column - Presents three-dimensional, vertical bars.
- 2-D Bar - Presents a simple graph with horizontal bars instead of vertical ones.
- 3-D Bar - Presents three-dimensional, horizontal bars.
- Customize your graph's appearance. Once you decide on a graph format, you can use the "Design" section near the top of the Excel window to select a different template, change the colors used, or change the graph type entirely.
- The "Design" window only appears when your graph is selected. To select your graph, click it.
- You can also click the graph's title to select it and then type in a new title. The title is typically at the top of the graph's window.[1]
[Edit]Sample Bar Graphs - Graphs can be copied and then pasted into other Microsoft Office programs like Word or PowerPoint.
- If your graph switched the x and y axes from your table, go to the "Design" tab and select "Switch Row/Column" to fix it.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make Oat Milk Posted: 16 Feb 2022 08:00 AM PST Whether you're vegan, lactose intolerant, or you want to try something new, this oat milk recipe is a great substitute for cow's milk. [Edit]Ingredients - 1 cup oatmeal
- 2 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
- 4 cups water
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
- 1 teaspoon agave (optional)
- Place the oatmeal in a big bowl then add your water. Let the oatmeal sit for 30 minutes or leave it overnight.[1]
- Dump the oatmeal into a blender. Blend the oats on high for 1 minute.[2]
- Once done blending use a sieve to get rid of the left over pieces of oatmeal. Place the sieve over a large bowl and pour the oat milk in slowly. Keep doing this until there is no more oatmeal left inside the milk.[3]
- Whisk in the vanilla extract, agave, and cinnamon. This step is optional but it adds flavour to the milk so it's not bland.
- Pour the oat milk into an empty container then store it in the fridge.[4]
- Done. Use the oat milk like regular milk. You can add it in your cereal, coffee, tea, and when you're baking.[5]
- You can also add dates.
- If you want your milk thicker add less water. If you want your milk thinner add more water.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Large bowl
- Whisk
- Blender
- Measuring cup
- Sieve
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References ↑ https://simpleveganblog.com/how-to-make-oat-milk/ ↑ https://minimalistbaker.com/make-oat-milk/ ↑ https://simpleveganblog.com/how-to-make-oat-milk/ ↑ https://www.karissasvegankitchen.com/homemade-oat-milk/ ↑ https://lovingitvegan.com/oat-milk/ |
| How to Solder Electronics Posted: 16 Feb 2022 12:00 AM PST Learning to solder through-hole components is an essential skill for any amateur hobbyist or electronic professional. You can learn what equipment and skills you'll need to get started soldering electronics properly. [Edit]Getting the Necessary Equipment - Use a soldering iron with the appropriate heat control. For soldering electrical components into printed circuit boards, the best soldering irons are Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) safe, temperature-controlled, high-power irons. These will let you solder for hours, and are good for complex amateur radio projects. For simple kits, an inexpensive pencil iron will do just fine.
- Use a fixed power soldering iron, 25-watt for small jobs and 100-watt for larger jobs with heavy cabling.[1]
- If possible, variable temperature irons are available, which will make for the safest treatment of the boards. The tip temperature can be controlled to suit the size of the job.
- Use solder wire of an appropriate alloy. The most common solder alloy used in electronics is 60% tin and 40% lead, sometimes termed 60/40(SN/Pb); the lowest melting temperature is actually 63/37. This is recommended if you are new to soldering, though because of the lead content it is somewhat hazardous. You must use proper ventilation (or a proper respiratory mask), or soldering equipment with a vacuum attachment.
- Solder that is 60/40 becomes pliable at but doesn't melt until it's , which means it may be difficult to work with if you're a beginner. Instead you can try solder that's 63/37 since it melts at .
- Various lead-free alloys are becoming necessary in recent years under the RoHS regulatory initiative. These require higher soldering temperatures and do not "wet" as well as tin-lead alloys. While they are safer, they are also more confusing. The most common is 96.5% tin to 3.5% silver and will produce a joint with less electrical resistance than a tin-lead alloy. In practice, this is not a reason to use it; the safety issue is the driving factor. You can also get solder that is almost 100% tin, but it is more expensive.
- Both lead and lead-free formulations are available online at places like solderdirect.com and in various stores in most localities.
- Use a flux-cored solder wire for electrical work. Make certain the flux used is electrically compatible.[2] Plumbing solder flux is most definitely not. Flux is a material (rosin or a variation for electrical work) used to prepare surfaces for soldering. Dirt, grease, and so on will interfere with the solder joint and must be removed. Including the flux within the solder wire automatically supplies flux to the surfaces being soldered and is the most sensible choice, though very small, surface mounts or automated soldering may use alternatives.
 - There are several different fluxes commonly available for electrical/electronic work. In order of popularity, these are RMA, RA, and water-soluble fluxes.[3] The more active a flux is, the more important it is that it not remain after soldering, lest continuing chemical action compromise or damage the operation of the electrical or electronic equipment. In particular, water-soluble fluxes must be removed.
- After soldering, rosins leave a brown, sticky residue which is ideally, non-corrosive and non-conductive. Cleaning can be accomplished with a purpose-formulated rosin removal product, or with isopropyl alcohol.
- No-clean flux leaves a clear residue after soldering, which is non-corrosive and non-conductive. This flux is designed to be left on the solder joint and surrounding areas.
- Water-soluble flux usually has a higher activity that leaves a residue which must be cleaned with water. The residue is corrosive and may also damage the board or components if not cleaned correctly after use.
- Get the necessary board and components. Mostly, electrical soldering deals with "through-hole" components, whose leads are inserted into holes in printed circuit boards (PCBs) and soldered to a pad of metal plating (a PCB trace) around the hole. The interior of the hole may be "plated through" or not; in the latter case the inserted lead is the electrical connection between traces on the top and bottom of the PCB. Soldering the lead on both sides will commonly be necessary in the last case.
- Soldering other electrical items, such as wires or lugs, has slightly different techniques, but the general principles of operating the solder and iron are the same. Note however, the lugs and other unsupported soldering points require a firm mechanical connection prior to soldering. A solder joint does NOT provide mechanical strength or resistance to vibration; it only provides a very low resistance electrical connection.
- Get a clamp to hold the components. Electrical components are usually quite small, and you'll need tongs, needle-nosed pliers, or tweezers to hold them in place while you operate the soldering iron and negotiate the solder. It can be a balancing act.
- Some kind of clamp or stand is usually best to hold the board in place while you solder the components.
[Edit]Soldering the Components - Prepare the components for soldering. Select the correct component by checking its type and value carefully. With resistors, check their color code. Bend leads correctly, if necessary, being careful not to exceed the stress specs (eg, by too sharp a bend), and clinch leads to fit the board.
- Be extremely careful and solder only in an appropriate environment. Always solder in a well-ventilated area, using breathing and eye protection. Make sure to safely place the iron (using a fireproof stand or holder) when it is on but not in use. Irons can start fires quite easily by burning into your workbench or paper or plastic. Always use a thermal mat or board to protect the area.
- Leave of space between the electronic components and your face, or solder bits or hot flux may reach your eyes. Safety spectacles are a very sensible precaution. Molten solder may splatter, and is essentially unpredictable.
- "Tin" the soldering iron tip. Melt a small blob of solder on end of the soldering iron. This process is called tinning and it helps to improve heat flow from the iron to the lead and pad, keeping the board safe from prolonged heat.[4]
- Carefully place the tip (with the blob) onto the interface of the lead and pad. The tip or blob must touch both the lead and the pad.
- The tip of the soldering iron should not be touching the nonmetallic area of the PCB, whether fibreglass (very common) or some other material. This area can be damaged by excessive heat.
- Feed the solder wire onto the interface between the pad and lead. Flux from the solder wire is only active very briefly maximum after melting onto the joint. It is burned off slowly (this is the smoke rising from the joint) and loses its effectiveness as it does so. The component lead and the pad should be heated enough for the solder to melt into the connection point. The molten solder should "cling" to the pad and lead together via surface tension. This is commonly referred to as wetting.
- If the solder does not melt onto the area, the most likely cause is insufficient heat has been transferred to it, or the surface needs to be cleaned of grease or dirt. The activity of the flux was not sufficient, and external flux may be necessary. Careful cleaning of surfaces prior to soldering may be needed.
- Use care—sandpaper will generally be too harsh and steel wool (though less mechanically harsh) will add tiny bits of conductive metal—probably leading to unintended shorts and electrical misbehavior.
- Stop feeding new solder when all the surfaces have been wetted. When the gaps are filled and the surfaces are wet, you should stop adding more solder. No more than a drop or two of solder should be necessary for most joints, though it will vary slightly for different components. The correct amount of solder is determined by:
- On plated-PCBs, you should stop feeding when a solid concave fillet can be seen around the joint.
- On non-plated PCBs, you want to stop feeding when the solder forms a flat fillet.
- Too much solder will form a bulbous joint with a convex shape (ie, blob-like), while too little solder will form an irregular concave joint. Both are visual indications that the solder joint is defective.
[Edit]Soldering Well - Move quickly. Unfortunately, it's quite easy to damage a component or the board with too much heat. For the most part, however, you can keep the components and the board safe by moving swiftly. A finger on the board nearby may help to notice too much heat.
- Try to err on the side of irons that are less powerful than you think you might need. A 30-watt iron will be adequate for most electronic work. Practice soldering is a very good idea.
- If working with a double-sided circuit board check both sides for good solder joints. A good joint will look shiny and cone-shaped. if it looks frosty and dull then it is likely a cold joint.[5]
- Consider using heat sinks to protect sensitive components. Some components (diodes, transistors, etc.) are quite susceptible to heat damage and require a small aluminum heat-sink clipped on to their leads on the opposite side of the PCB. Small aluminum heat sinks can be purchased through electronics supply houses. Hemostats (small) can also be used.
- Learn to recognize when there is enough solder present. After a proper application of solder, the solder will be shiny and not dull. Visible indications are the best way to know if your solder joint is good. The solder must melt onto the surface of the electronic components or PCB traces, rather than the tip of the soldering iron. This way, when the solder cools, it forms a close connection to the surface of the metal.
- The solder joint should coat the surface of the component evenly, not too much such that it forms a glob, nor too little such that it does not completely coat the surface.
- Keep the soldering iron clean. Burnt flux, rosin from the core of the solder, or plastic sheaths from wires may all contaminate the soldering iron tip. Such contaminants prevent the formation of a proper bond between the electronic components. This is undesirable because it raises the electrical resistance and also reduces the mechanical strength of the solder joint. A clean tip is shiny all the way around, without burnt gunk on it.
- Clean the iron in between each component that you solder. Use a damp sponge or bronze (or brass) wool to clean it thoroughly.[6]
- Let the solder cool completely before moving the components. Solder remains soft for a time, and there is little visual indication when the mushy phase ends. This cooling should only a few seconds in most electronic situations; large components have more mass and are both harder to heat sufficiently to solder them and also take much longer to cool to solidify.
- If the components are too hot to handle, use needle nose pliers, or a tool called helping hands which consists of two alligator clips attached to a little articulated stand. If you watch carefully, the cooling solder will settle right before your eyes.
- Practice on junk components. It's important to practice on throwaway stuff before you move straight to trying to solder something important. Get some junk components from an old radio or some such to practice on.
- Nobody is perfect, not even the professionals. Don't be ashamed to repeat a bit of soldering work (it's officially called rework in the business). It will save you time in troubleshooting later.
- The tip of a soldering iron tends to get stuck with time (if frequently used), due to oxides that build up between the copper tip and the iron sleeve. Plated tips do not usually have this problem. If the copper tip is not removed now and then, it will get stuck permanently in the soldering iron! It is then destroyed. Therefore: every 20 - 50 or so hours of use, when cold, remove the tip and move it back and forth and around so the oxide scales can come out, before locking it in place again! Now you soldering iron will last for many years of use!
- Keep handy a rubber-bulb or other suction de-solderer (sucks up melted solder) or a spool of desoldering braid (fine copper mesh that absorbs melted solder) in case you mess up and need to disconnect something or remove excess solder from a joint.
- If you should accidentally burn yourself with the soldering iron, rinse the burn with tap water for 15 minutes. The burnt area will create a boil, but don't worry, it will heal within 3 to 4 weeks. If the condition persists, go to the clinic and consult with the doctor.
- Also if you have it on hand, when the iron is cold, use a wire brush (brass is best) to work on the scale and oxides. Only recommended every 60-75 hours of use.
- Most soldering irons have replaceable tips. Soldering iron tips have a limited working life and also are available in different types of shapes and sizes, to suit a variety of jobs.
[Edit]Warnings - Soldering irons are very hot. Do not touch the tip with your skin. Also, always use a suitable stand or holder to keep the tip up and off of your work surface.
- Use a thermal mat or board to protect your workspace from burns or possible fires.
- Solders, especially lead-based solders, contain hazardous materials. Wash your hands after soldering, and be aware that items containing solder may require special handling if you dispose of them.[7]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Recycle Paper Posted: 15 Feb 2022 04:00 PM PST Recycling saves the environment, but there's more to it than just putting your recyclables on the curb. There's a lot you can do with old scrap paper around your house. Follow these steps to maximize your recycling. [Edit]Recycling in the Garden & Garage - Turn newspaper and office paper into mulch. Tear the paper into strips, and layer it around your plants. This will help prevent weed growth and will keep the soil moist. The paper will eventually decompose and help give nutrients to the soil.[1]
- Corrugated cardboard can be effective as well.
- Do not use glossy paper or colored ink.
- Add newspaper to the compost. Newspaper will add carbon to a well-balanced compost pile, and is classed as "brown." Check out our guide here on how to build a balanced compost.
- Protect against spills. Use old newspaper as a spill guard when performing auto repair or when painting and staining furniture. Use it as a covering for all of your craft projects.
[Edit]Recycling in the Office - Print on the back. Many printers only print on one side. If you're printing something that doesn't need to look professional, use an already printed scrap page.[2]
- Create a notepad. Assemble a stack of once-used papers. Turn them all upside down, then bind the top with staples or brads.[3]
[Edit]Recycling Around the House - Make cat litter. Shredded newspaper can be turned into an effective cat litter. All you need is some baking soda.
- Shred the paper, preferably in a paper shredder.
- Soak the paper in warm water. Add a small amount of biodegradable dish soap.
- Drain the water and soak again without the soap.
- Sprinkle baking soda onto the paper and knead the mixture together. Squeeze out as much moisture as possible.
- Crumble onto a screen and let dry for a few days.
- Wrap presents. Use old newspaper to wrap gifts. The Sunday comics are especially effective due to the many colors.[4]
- Pack a box. Use old paper to stuff a package for shipping. Wrap fragile objects in layers of paper, and fill the gaps in the box with crumbled wads so that everything stays snug.[5]
- Make a book cover. You can use paper bags to make book covers for your old and new hardbound books that you can decorate however you'd like.
[Edit]Recycling Through a Waste Management Service - Contact your local waste management company. Ask them about their available recycling services, as well as any recycling centers in your area. Ask them for details on what can and cannot be recycled.
- Know what can and can't be recycled. Different areas have different policies on what they can accept, but here's what generally will and will not be taken:
- What you can recycle: Newspaper, magazines, maps, packaging (except frozen food), envelopes, cardboard.
- What you can't recycle: Waxed paper, laminated paper, pet food bags, food-soaked paper, frozen food boxes.[6]
- Sort and place your recycling on the curb. If your waste management company offers recycling, then take your sorted recyclables out to the curb in the recycle bins on trash day.
- Take your old paper to a recycling center. If your local sanitation company doesn't support recycling, or you have too much to fit into a bin, pack up your recyclables and take them to your local recycling center.
- Don't buy memo pads. Use the excess paper from print-offs or use the computer memo pad.
- Don't print out papers you don't need.
- Keep a box in the kitchen or by the computer to put paper in - this way you will be more likely to remember to use.
- Set your printer to print on both sides. If your printer does not support that, try to print one page at a time, so you can manually flip the page over.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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