| How to Tie Dye Paper Posted: 14 Apr 2022 05:00 PM PDT Tie-dying paper is a fun and simple craft you can create with your child or by yourself. It's a great way to keep kids busy and entertained, using supplies you probably already have around the house. Many people also love to make wrapping paper, stationery paper or greeting cards featuring tie-dyed patterns. There are a variety of ways to tie-dye paper, whether it's basic printer paper, drawing paper, tissue paper or even coffee-filter paper. [Edit]Dying Paper with Water Colors or Food Coloring - Wet your paper. Get a rag wet and splotch water all over the paper you plan to dye. Allow excess water to drop off into a sink.
- Mix water colors or food coloring in various squirt or spray bottles. Use squirt bottles[1] to create blotches of color and spray bottles[2] to create larger spatters of color. Make sure you mix the appropriate amount of water with your dyes according to their directions.
- Place your paper onto a surface you don't mind getting colored. You might cover a table or counter top with several layers of newspaper or place your paper in a large, shallow tin. You can even complete the activity on the ground outside, weather permitting.
- It's also a good idea to protect your clothes by wearing a smock, apron or old t-shirt.
- Squirt or spray the dye on the paper. There's no right or wrong way to apply the color, just use your imagination. Use various colors for a true tie-dyed look.
- If you want to create symmetrical patterns, fold the paper in half before applying the color.
- Hold the paper over a pan, sink or outdoors to allow the colors to run. The liquid dye will run and and bleed across the wet paper. You can twist the paper as it drips to create further designs.
- Allow the paper to dry. If you chose to fold the paper, unfold it, then lay the paper down flat on a towel. Let the paper air dry for at least 30 minutes.[3]
[Edit]Staining Paper with Coffee - Add coffee grounds into a pan. Choose a pan large enough to also hold the paper you plan to dye. Don't worry if you aren't sure how many grounds to add, you can always add more to strengthen the coffee as it steeps.[4]
- Pour boiling water into the pan. Allow the water and coffee grounds to steep at least five minutes. If the resulting liquid isn't dark enough, add more grounds and allow it to steep a few minutes more.
- Add a piece of paper to the pan, and let it steep. How long you allow the paper to steep is completely up to you, depending on how dark you want the paper to be stained. Various projects could require paper to steep anywhere from five minutes to overnight.
- If you would like to create symmetrical stained designs, fold the paper into squares, triangles or strips before placing it in the liquid.
- Remove the paper from the coffee. Wait until the paper is just a shade or two lighter than what you desire, then remove it from the coffee. The paper will darken a shade or two more as it dries.
- Hang the paper to dry. You can clip it to a clothesline or a curtain rod. Be careful as you handle the paper, since it will be more fragile while it's wet. Drying time can vary based on the type of paper and where it's hanging. You can test it with your hand to know when its fully dried.
- If you're not satisfied with the shade once the paper dries, simply repeat steps 3-5.
[Edit]Dying Paper with Markers - Color the paper with markers.[5] Get multiple colors of markers and scribble all over the paper in whatever designs you like. The more solid blocks of color, the better the end result.
- To create a symmetrical design, fold soft absorbent papers into halves, fourths or eighths. Hold a marker down on the top layer until the ink has soaked through all of the layers.[6]
- Wet the paper. You can get the paper wet by spraying it with or dipping it into water. When the marker gets wet, it will bleed and blur, resembling tie dye. You want the paper to be wet but not dripping.
- Let the paper dry. If you've folded the paper, unfold it and lay it flat on a dry surface. Once it's dry, you can use it for wrapping paper, as the background of a special note or even the basis of paper flowers.
- If you get dye on your skin, use rubbing alcohol to get it off.
- To make scented tie-dye, spray on a hint of perfume.
- Have something under the paper you're dyeing to prevent damage to desks, tables and counter tops.
- Create designs within the color by drawing on the paper with white crayon before adding water or dye. When the color later dries, the crayon drawings will appear within the color.[7]
[Edit]Warnings - Dye can stain your clothes. Be sure and protect them with some sort of covering, such as smock, an apron or an old t-shirt.
- Be careful when handling boiling water, it can easily burn your skin. Be sure you have a parent's permission.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Smock, apron or old t-shirt
- Newspaper, plastic table cloth or a pan large enough to lay the paper
- Any type of paper
- A rag
- Water
- Spray or squirt bottle
- Food coloring, water color paint, markers or coffee grounds
- Clothes line or curtain rod with clips or clothespins(optional)
- Perfume (optional)
- White crayon (optional)
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Recaulk Kitchen Counter Where It Meets the Backsplash Posted: 14 Apr 2022 09:00 AM PDT If the caulk where your kitchen counter and backsplash meet has worn away over time, it may be time to recaulk the area. Fortunately, this is a simple project you can do yourself. To help you out, we'll walk you through everything you need to do to recaulk your kitchen counter, from removing the old caulk to using a caulking gun to apply more. [Edit]Preparing Your Kitchen Counter - Remove existing caulk.[1] Remove as much as possible by pulling loose ends by hand. Remove remaining caulk with a narrow blade putty knife / scraper.[2] A plastic putty knife / scraper will minimize scratching of finished surfaces. Only apply as much pressure as needed to remove caulk without damaging the surface.
- Clean the surface(s).[3] Use a cleaning agent that can cut through soap, yet not damage the surface finish. Try using a small amount of thinner or other cleaner that dries with little or no residue in an inconspicuous place to test for possible damage to the finish. If no damage results, use only as much as needed to remove dirt, etc.
- Inspect for de-lamination. Laminates are sheets of material that is bonded to a base - in the case of counter tops and back splashes this is wood or some type of particle or fiberboard. If water has been allowed to seep under the laminate for longer than a brief time, there is a good chance that the laminate is no longer bonded to the wood base underneath. Look for up or down-turned edges and feel for bubbles or air pockets under the laminate. Slightly lift the laminate away from the wood beneath. Do not pry. Lift it only far enough to allow circulation of air. Do not extend the de-lamination by lifting too high as this can risk breaking any existing bond and the even the laminate itself. Vacuum as best you can to remove any debris caught between the laminate and wood.
- Allow the area(s) to completely dry. This is a very important step, and the more time allowed to dry, the better the repair will be. If this area is near a sink, it would be best to not use the sink if possible. Shutting off the water can help prevent accidental usage in extreme cases.
- Repair de-laminated areas.[4] After being allowed to completely dry (overnight is minimum, but 24 - 48 hours is better), check for signs of dampness. A paper towel pressed into the areas and inspected after being removed should prove if water had been kept away during the drying time. If still damp, allow additional drying time or add a fan to speed drying; otherwise apply contact cement as per instructions on the container. It will be impossible to get the contact cement all the way to to the point where a factory bond exists. For this reason, apply the cement as far as practical and add extra at the furthest point you can reach. When ready to join, start from the edges and work to the center so that the extra cement will be forced further still to the factory bonded point. Work back towards the edges. Inspect for bubbles or air pockets under the laminate. When satisfied, apply even pressure to the laminate against the wood backing with weights, wedges, etc. overnight.
- Remove weights, wedges, etc. and clean any contact cement that may have leeched out from between the laminate and backing by hand or with the plastic putty knife / scraper.
- Mask off area to keep caulk over seam. When two surfaces join at an angle such as a backsplash and counter, allow for about or less width of caulking area on either side of the seam, how much is a personal preference. Painters tape, masking tape or any tape that doesn't leave residue will work fine. Apply the tape evenly so that the desired amount of exposure of both horizontal and vertical surfaces from the seam is visible.[5]
[Edit]Applying Caulk - Ready the caulk.[6] Cut the tip of the caulking tube (at any angle that works best for you as determined by your "practice runs") to make an opening about equal to the mask width.[7] Pierce the seal of the tube by inserting a nail or other thin object into the tip until the seal is punctured. While relieving the "catch" mechanism (locking tab around the rod at the handle end of the caulking gun or providing a 1/4 turn of the rod or which ever way your gun operates) pull the rod as far out of the gun as it will travel. Load the caulk tube into the caulking gun by inserting bottom end into the handle end of the gun. Press the nozzle end into the other end of the gun. Squeeze the trigger repeatedly until pressure is felt at the trigger. Slowly squeeze the trigger while watching for caulk to become visible at the end of the nozzle. Stop squeezing as soon as it appears. Have a paper towel or rag ready for any excess caulk that will continue to slowly ooze out. Instantly stopping this slow oozing can be accomplished by relieving the pressure on the rod by the gun - release the "catch" of the rod as described above.
- Apply caulk. [8] Run a bead of caulk directly over the seam. By providing steady pressure to the caulk gun trigger and moving along the seam at a steady speed at the same time, acceptable results should be obtained. Work on areas no greater than at a time. "Tool" the bead with the wedge tool included with some brands of caulk, a popsicle stick or vinyl gloved finger will also work. A bare finger however, wet with saliva seems to work best and is the way it is done most often in the field. Tooling is done for two reasons: it forces the bead into the seam void and it provides a smooth bead surface that makes cleaning easier. Starting at one end, press the tool or finger into the bead and wipe evenly towards the opposite end. Wipe built-up excess caulk from your finger or tool as needed with paper towels or rags, and re-wet finger before repeating. When "tooling" the caulk, work the edge of the caulk near the tape edges nearest to the seam to be as thin as possible, leaving the bulk of the caulk directly over the seam. Tool the caulk until satisfied with appearance. Repeat for each additional lengths until complete. Do not work too large an area or waste too much time as after the caulk begins to "skin over" tooling will be difficult and result in wrinkling the surface.
- Fill seams between laminate sections, such as where the counter top or backsplash required more than one piece of laminate. Apply thin bead directly over seams and press firmly in as you wipe into seam with wet finger. Do this several times to ensure caulk has permeated the space between sections to prevent water from entering. Wipe away any excess caulk on the surface of the laminate with a damp paper towel or rag.
- Remove tape. Check the caulk on surface of the tape to ensure it is no longer wet. Caulk on the surface of the tape should be of minimal thickness - practically transparent at the edge tape's edge. Carefully and slowly lift the tape from the laminate. It should come up in one piece and there should be no wet caulk bridging the gap between the tape and the laminate as it is lifted away. If there is, allow more drying time before reattempting. The thinner the caulk is at the tapes edge, the better the results will be.
- Allow the caulk to fully cure as per manufacturer's directions before cleaning, etc.
- Consider using the small (6 ounce or so) tube of caulk for small jobs. The large tubes should be used at once, as they seldom last very long after initial opening even when recapped. The small tube has the advantage of the ability to get into tight places that the larger caulking gun can not reach.
- Many caulks are available in colors. Don't settle for white or clear unless it is what you want. The "big box" stores usually have the best selections.
- While 100% silicone caulk is extremely durable, there are other types with different formulations. Each type has it's own list of pros and cons.
- If you've never worked with caulk before, practice on scrap before tackling your counter or sink. Learn the "feel" of the tools and how pressure and on the tools change the output and function. Try running beads of caulk with a tip cut at 45 degrees, but have the tip oriented different ways to see the resultant bead. Try a bead with a straight cut tip. Use the tip angle and orientation with which you feel most comfortable. It's better to make mistakes here, than in your kitchen or bath.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Time. The prep time (cleaning and dry time specifically) are often significantly greater than the actual repair time. Don't rush through these steps.
- High quality caulk. Use of 100 % silicone caulk generally stands up best, however it may not stick to some materials. Test adhesion qualities if unsure. Also, different manufacturers state the application on each tube, if unable to determine - ask store clerk for recommendations. Caulk is available in larger tubes that require an inexpensive "gun" that forces the product out and small tubes that rely on hand pressure to squeeze product out. The hand held tubes are perfect for small jobs - and getting into tight spaces (between sink and backsplash).
- Caulking gun. If using small hand held tubes of caulk, the gun will not be needed.
- Putty knife / scraper (plastic is highly recommended). Purchase a knife / scraper narrow enough to fit in areas with little clearance (between backsplash and sink). Plastic tools are desirable because they are less likely to damage finished surfaces and they can be "custom" trimmed easily to fit in tight areas.
- Paper towels / rags for clean up.
- Cleaning agent. Preferably something that has little water content or dries with little or no residue. A low soap and water solution can be used if adequate drying time is provided.
- Contact cement.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make Fake Ginger Ale Using Soda Posted: 14 Apr 2022 01:00 AM PDT "Bartender's ginger ale" has a decent amount of flavor when made correctly, but it's really a separate drink. A few people prefer their whiskey and "ginger" made this way, but for most, it's just a substitute when there's no ginger ale around. If you came here expecting a closer imitation, check out the homemade version with ginger syrup instead. [Edit]Making Ginger Ale Substitute - Make this for an emergency mixed drink ingredient. Some bartenders use this substitute when there's no ginger ale in stock. It's not intended to be an amazing drink by itself, or to be drunk straight.
- Don't assume the customer is fine with the substitute. Let them know you would have to use a soda replacement, and give them the option to change the order.
- Start with a glass of ice. As always, mix in a glass of ice to keep the ingredients cold.
- Add a couple dashes of bitters. This adds a spicy aroma and taste to replace the ginger bite. You may use Angostura bitters, or whatever you have on hand.
- Bitters are alcoholic. Skip this step if you're making the drink for kids or non-drinkers.
- Add a splash of sour mix. Most prepackaged sour mixes taste terrible. Make this simple recipe yourself for best results:
- Make simple syrup by combining equal amounts of sugar and water. Heat and stir until all sugar is dissolved, then let cool.
- To make sour mix, combine two parts simple syrup and three parts lemon or lime juice.[1]
- Pour the glass mostly full of lemon-lime soda. At least ¾ of the "ginger ale" should be Sprite, 7–Up, or another lemon-lime soda. You can even make it most of the drink, saving just a splash for the remaining ingredients.
- Fill the rest with cola. The main purpose of the cola is to add a golden color to the clear soda. You only need a splash, but you can add up to ¼ of the glass if you prefer the taste.
- Add it to the drink. Test your fake ginger ale by mixing it with whiskey, or use it in cocktails such as the Moscow mule. Bartenders typically add the same amount they would regular ginger ale.
[Edit]Making Quick Ginger Ale at Home - Try this for a real ginger taste. If you want a more authentic ginger flavor, you can rely on this recipe instead. Making it at home allows you to adjust the strength to suit your taste.
- Start with ginger syrup. Start with about 2 tbsp (30mL) for a 10-oz (300mL) glass. You can find this ingredient at health food stores, upper end grocery stores, or online. For a fresher taste, make your own:
- Heat 1 cup (240mL) water and 1¼ cups (240g) sugar, stirring until dissolved.
- Add ½ cup (120mL) grated or thinly sliced, raw ginger.
- Simmer for 15 minutes.
- Let cool, then add 2 tbsp (30mL) lemon juice.
- Fill the glass with seltzer or soda. Plain seltzer (fizzy water) is best. You may use lemon-lime soda, cream soda, or other sodas. Sodas add a large amount of sugar and can overpower the ginger taste.
- Add a few drops of bitters (optional). This alcoholic ingredient will add complex herbal flavors. Try it if you happen to have it on hand, but don't bother buying it if you don't make cocktails at home.
- Stir and serve. Give it a stir until all the ginger syrup has dissolved. Add ice or drink it straight.
- Ginger ale is a sweet soda, with very little ginger flavor. If you enjoy a strong ginger flavor, try making ginger beer instead.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Substitute - Lemon-Lime Soda
- Cola
- Bitters
- Sour mix
- Glass
- Ice
[Edit]Home Recipe - Ginger syrup
- Seltzer or colorless soda
- Bitters
- Glass
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Create a Paper Bag Book Cover Posted: 13 Apr 2022 05:00 PM PDT Covering a book with paper protects the hardcover from wear and tear. If you just don't like to use plastic wrap or fabric covers to cover your books, then a paper bag is a great alternative, and is also environmentally friendly. Using a brown paper bag also allows you to personalize the cover with your own designs and decorations. With just scissors, tape, and some creative folding, you can cover any book. [Edit]Preparing the Paper - Choose a paper bag to cover your book with. It will need to be at least double the width of your book, so that it can cover both the front and back. It also needs to be 3 in (7.6 cm) taller than the height of your book in order to fit properly.[1]
- Cut open your brown paper shopping bag along one seam. Choose either side, rather than the bottom. Be sure you don't cut both sides, only one. Remove the handles if it has any.
- Cut off the flaps formed by the bottom of the bag. Don't cut more than 1 to 2 in (2 to 5 cm). You want one large sheet of paper.
- Place the book in the center of the paper. Make sure the paper is large enough to cover the book in its entirety. Check that the paper will wrap around the book, covering the front and back.[2]
[Edit]Covering the Book - Wrap the paper up across the bottom of the book. Make a crease along the bottom cover. You can use double-sided tape to secure the fold, if you wish. This will help secure the cover.[3]
- Place the book on top of the bottom fold so the edges are even. Wrap the paper up across the top of the book. Make a crease along the top cover. Again, feel free to use tape to hold the fold in place. Then, remove the book from the paper.
- Measure the folds. They should be at least 1.6 in (4 cm) in length.[4]
- Fold the paper up at the bottom crease and down at the top crease. You should have a strip of paper big enough to cover the book from top to bottom.
- Try not to create new folds on top of preexisting folds in the paper. This will cause your book cover to tear more easily.[5]
- Place the book back in the center of the paper. Wrap the paper across the front of the book from left to right and adjust the book position until the two ends of the paper are even.[6]
- Fold the overlap around the front cover of the book. Make a crease. Then insert the front cover of the book into the slot created by the paper folded over at the top and the bottom. Slide the paper over the book until you hit the crease.
- Fold the overlap around the back cover of the book. Make a crease. Then insert the back cover of the book into the slot created by the paper folded over at the top and the bottom. Slide the paper over the book until you hit the crease.[7]
- Stop if the cover fits snugly. If it seems a little loose or the top and bottom folds are not lying flat, you can use small pieces of tape to pull the front and the inside flap together a little more securely.
- Do not tape the paper cover to the actual cover of the book; the paper cover will move a little when the book opens, and you could damage the book cover.[8]
- Decorate your book cover, if you like. Remove the book and add stickers, drawings, or designs to the paper. You can add a name tag, or use fancy fonts or scripts to write the title of the book. You can make designs out of paper and attach them with rubber cement or double-sided tape. When you are finished, put the cover back on the book.
- If you have a color printer and scanner, copy the cover, back cover, and spine of your book and tape the copies onto the book cover.
- To make the cover more durable, remove it from the book and unfold it so that it lies flat. Cut a piece of clear adhesive covering so that it will cover most of the outer surface of the book cover. Remove the backing from the clear adhesive and carefully apply it to the book cover, smoothing as you go to avoid air bubbles. Now refold the cover and put it back on the book.
- If your supermarket no longer offers paper bags, buy a roll of the brown paper designed for wrapping parcels and use that instead. Cut a piece long enough to cover the front, back and spine of the book with at least 3 in (7.6 cm) of overlap at either end.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - A book
- Paper bag or roll of paper
- Scissors
- Tape (optional)
- Things to decorate your book cover (optional)
- Cardboard or clear adhesive covering to put inside to make it durable (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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