| How to Draw a Flower Posted: 18 May 2022 01:00 AM PDT Whether you're hoping to draw a rose, daisy, tulip, or sunflower, the flower is a beautiful subject to practice your sketching — and to help make it fun. It only takes a few simple steps to make a symmetrical, realistic flower, and flowers are perfect for helping you with pattern work or learning how to juxtapose overlapping shapes in your artwork. Plus, they look absolutely stunning, and you can add a splash of color at the end to make them pop off the page. This guide will teach you how to draw 9 different types of flowers, with technique tips and suggestions to make your flowers as lovely as can be. [Edit]A Sunflower - Draw a big circle and then draw a smaller one at the center.[1][2]
- Draw the stem and draw leaves on each side
- Draw a thin elongated heart shape for the petal.
- Repeat step 3 until you have fully covered the edge of your inner circle.
- Add more petals to cover up empty space using pointed angles.[3]
- Draw slanted lines crisscrossed over each other inside the small circle.
- Refine details of the leaves and the stem.
- Color the drawing.
[Edit]A Rose with Stem - Draw curved line. Sketch another one(slightly bigger) below the first until you are able to draw three similar shapes.
- Draw a curved vertical line to represent the stalk and add a leaf on one side.
- Sketch a rough outline of the rose, and then start drawing the petals. Use the "U" >> shape first.
- Sketch the petals so they seem to overlap each other, on the first "U".
- Add petal shaped details on the second "U".
- Use the last "U" to guide you in sketching the petals similar to what you did on the first and second "U".
- You can also add more petals if you wish for a more appealing rose drawing.
- Draw the rose's sepal using pointed angles.
- Add thorns on the stem. This is best drawn using pointed angles. Add details to the rose's leaf, do not forget that it has a serrated margin.
- Color the drawing.
[Edit]A Rose without Stem - Make one circle to form the interior border of the flower.
- Add two more circles to form the outer border of the flower petals.
- Add some rough forms for the petals.
- Draw the final lines.
- Color the drawing and add some shadows and definition lines.
- Finished.
[Edit]A Daffodil - Draw an oval to form the outer edge of the flower leaves. Add two parallel lines and connect the parallel lines at bottom as shown in the picture.[4]
- Draw a connecting smaller oval figure at the top of the parallel lines to form the top of the flower.[5]
- Create a rough sketch of the flower and leaves as illustrated in the picture.[6]
- Add the final lines for the flower and leaves.
- Draw shadows and definition lines and color in your flower.
[Edit]A Cosmos Flower - Sketch a circle.
- Sketch another circle at the center.
- Sketch the petals surrounding the bigger circle. They should be almost of the same sizes and shape.
- Sketch a line for the flower stalk.
- Draw semi-circles around the smaller circle thus, making a flower-like structure. Then you could add something in the middle.
- Draw the basic outline of the petals. The petals at the front should be differentiated from the petals at the back.
- Draw the outline of the bigger circle and the stalk.
- Color the flower.
[Edit]A Tulip - Sketch a circle for the flower and a long slightly curved line for the stalk.
- Add the guides of the petals and the leaves. Draw 2 petals in front and a petal at the back of the 2 petals totalling to 3 petals. The leaves of tulip are long and not straight so the guide lines for the leaves should be long curved lines.
- Sketch the guide of the sepal and the leaves.
- Draw the basic outline of the flower, sepal and the stalk.
- Draw the basic outline of the leaves.
- Add more detail. Draw lines in the leaves and in the petals for a better outcome.
- Color the tulip.
[Edit]A Simple Daisy - Start the outline by sketching a small circle.
- Draw a bigger circle. Make it look like a disc so you could remember the basic outline of a daisy flower whenever you draw one.
- Start drawing the actual lines by the small circle at the middle.
- Begin drawing the petals with two line strokes, up and down directions. Always begin drawing the actual lines with a mirror effect.
- Draw another mirror of petals on the horizontal way.
- Continue drawing the petals using the same technique.
- Finish drawing the petals.
- Erase the outline sketches and color the draft.
- Add the background.
[Edit]A Basic Flower - Draw a small circle in the middle of the page.
- Draw a bigger circle which has the same center point with the small circle.
- Draw the petals of the flowers using curves. Use the circles as guide.
- Draw the petals as to revolve around the circle.
- Draw other petals which occupy the space left in the circle. They don't all have to be in the same length.
- Draw the stem and the leaves by using curves.
- Refine the leaves to resemble a real one.
- Trace with a pen and erase unnecessary lines.
- Color to your liking!
[Edit]A Cartoon Flower - Draw a vertical oblong. Below the oblong, draw a slender rectangle that would serve as the plant's stem.
- Draw two curves at the oval one from the left and the other at the right.
- Draw lines extending from the lower part of the oblong which spread in four directions. Draw a curved loop also at the bottom of the oblong.
- Draw curves which connect the lines to form petals for the flower.
- Draw curves which extend upward in the oval to resemble budding.
- Draw another petal using the same principle and lines along the oblong.
- Refine the drawing and trace with a pen. Erase unnecessary lines.
- Color to your liking!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Sketchbook
- Colour pencils
[Edit]Quick Summary [Edit]References |
| How to Build an Outdoor Barbeque Posted: 17 May 2022 05:00 PM PDT An outdoor barbecue is a great DIY project that anyone with a little masonry experience can handle. To build a simple but effective brick grill, choose a safe location and start by laying a concrete footer. Build up the courses of bricks layer by layer. When you've reached a height that's comfortable for grilling, you can insert some supports for the grill surface. Top it off with some solid bricks, lay the grill surface down, and you're ready to fire it up! - Gather your materials. If you've got a little bit of masonry experience, this is a project you should be able to handle. Still, you'll need to make a run to the hardware store to get:[1]
- Fiber-reinforced concrete mix
- Mortar mix
- A trowel
- A hammer
- Bricks (including some solid bricks)
- A mason's line or level
- Chalk
- Gravel mix
- lengths of steel rebar
- A metal grill surface
- Dig out the grill area. Use a spade and start digging in your grill area. You'll want to create a hole that is by and deep. Pick a spot that's away from your house and anything else that could easily catch fire.[2]
- Keeping the grill area away from your house will also help prevent smoke from blowing in and bothering anyone.
- Pour concrete into the hole to create the footer. Prepare the concrete mix according to the package instructions. Pour it directly into the hole you dug out for the grill area. If you use fiber-reinforced concrete mix, it will be just fine to pour the concrete on bare dirt.[3]
- Let the concrete dry thoroughly before continuing. This will take 3 to 5 days, typically.
- Draw an outline of the barbecue on the concrete. Grab your chalk and draw a rectangular outline on the concrete footer. You will need to leave at least on all sides for safety reasons. Leave a bit more space if you want to make the barbecue area smaller than this.[4]
- The interior of the grill will need to be just a little bigger than the grill surface that you bought.
- You can used stretched out mason's line or a yardstick to make sure the lines you draw are straight.
- Lay some bricks for a dry fit. Lay two courses of bricks just inside the outline you drew, without using any mortar. Leave between each brick to account for the mortar that will be added later. Check to make sure that everything looks straight.[5]
- You can use concrete blocks instead of bricks, if you wish. You will probably lay fewer courses, since standard blocks are taller than bricks.
[Edit]Laying the Courses - Prepare your mortar mix. You'll need to have this ready to start laying bricks. Follow the instructions on the mix package, and keep the prepared mortar near your work area so it's easy to reach.[6]
- Use bonding cement (prepared to package instructions) rather than mortar if you are making a grill from concrete blocks.
- Start laying bricks at the corners. Put a line of mortar down just inside the outline on the footer, then lay down some bricks at all the the corners. Don't forget to put of mortar between each brick. Build the corners up four courses high.[7]
- To build up each course, smear a layer of mortar (about the thickness of your finger) on top of the bricks on the ground. Lay new bricks on top of the mortar so that they overlap the old ones and create an interlocking pattern. Repeat.
- If you are using concrete blocks, you only need to build up two or three courses at this point.
- Fill in the rows. Work from corner to corner. Make sure to put some mortar down on the top of each course of bricks before laying the next one down. Continue to leave of mortar between each brick as well. You'll now have a rectangle that is four full courses high.[8]
- Wait for the mortar to dry before moving on to the next steps.
- Spread a layer of gravel inside the bricks. You can use any ordinary gravel mix that's available. The type of gravel is not as important as making sure that the footer on the interior of the brick square you have created is covered by a thin layer of it.[9]
- Pour a layer of concrete on top of the gravel. Prepare more concrete mix. Lay a slab on top of the gravel you poured inside the brick rectangle. This creates a barrier of insulation between the fire and ground.[10]
[Edit]Adding the Grill Surface - Continue building up bricks on three sides. After you have the barbecue base, you'll need to build it up higher to provide a place for the charcoal and grill surface to rest. Continue laying courses of bricks, but only on three sides. That way, you'll be able to access the charcoal and grill surface from the open front side.
- Insert rebar to support the charcoal pan. When you reach about four courses above the base, insert (100 mm) lengths of steel rebar into the mortar between one course of bricks and the next. The rebar should jut out just a bit into the interior, open space of the grill area.[11]
- Use a level to check and make sure each course of bricks is level as you lay it.
- Alternatively, you can lay one course of bricks sideways to provide a support surface for the charcoal pan.
- Add supports for the grill surface. Lay a couple more courses of bricks, and then insert more short pieces of rebar (or bricks laid sideways). This will provide a nice, sturdy support for the grill surface, slightly above the charcoal pan.
- Top off the grill walls. Add at least a couple more courses to your grill walls. When it has reached a height that you like, place solid bricks on the top row. This will give the grill a finished look.[12]
- Surround the grill with more bricks (optional). Once you've laid the basic grill, you can lay another row of bricks surrounding the sides and back, but not the front. This is optional, but some people like the look of thicker sides on the grill. You may also find it provides some insulation between the heat of the charcoal and the outside of the grill.
- If you decide to add this layer, just start laying courses of bricks directly around the perimeter of the grill. Keep building up courses of bricks several rows above the top of the center grill area.
- Make sure to leave the front side open.
- Set the grill surface and charcoal pan in place. Lay the metal charcoal pan down on top of the lower set of rebar supports, and the grill surface on the upper ones.They should fit securely inside the grill, but you can remove them later if you need to clean it. Now you're ready to fire up your very own grill![13]
- Make sure to use only food-grade metal for your grill surface and charcoal pan. Do not use any metal that has been painted or in contact with petroleum or any chemicals.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Grow Gardenias Posted: 17 May 2022 09:00 AM PDT Gardenias have won the hearts of swooning Southern belles for ages. Their beautiful petals and divine fragrance have indeed made them a very beloved flower. Gardenias can be grown along hedge rows, in gardens, in your yards or even in pots. However, the fragrant, blooming plant has some very specific demands when it comes to sunlight, temperature, and moisture. Learning all of the details to grow gardenia is well worth the trouble when it comes to the smell and beauty you will receive from your plant. [Edit]Choosing Your Gardenia and Location - Select a compact plant with deep green, glossy foliage. When you select your variety of gardenia, keep in mind that most gardenia varieties grow better in tropical and subtropical climates. The Kleim's Hardy Gardenia is one of the only gardenia varieties that can withstand relatively cold temperatures.[1]
- Other varieties that are more suited for colder weather include Chuck Hayes and Frost Proof.
- Choose a location. Gardenias need a home that receives full to partial sunlight. They like the warmth of the sun for proper growth. Strive to give your gardenia direct morning sun rather than direct afternoon sun.
- If you are putting your gardenia in an indoor pot, you will want to keep it near a south-facing window so that it can get bright, indirect sunlight for most of the day.
- Choose a spot with good soil. Gardenias grow best when they are planted in rich soil that is moist but well-drained. Gardenias do best in soils with acidic pH levels. Try to maintain a pH of 5 or 6. You may want to have your soil tested and then add nutrients according to the results. In particular, if your soil is too basic you will want to add sulfur.[2]
[Edit]Planting Your Gardenia - Avoid planting too close to concrete. While you can still plant your gardenias outside windows so that you can enjoy their lovely smell, you do not want to plant them right up against your house or walkways. The soil near concrete changes in alkalinity and gardenias will struggle when planted in soil with too high of a pH level.
- Add 2 to of organic material to the soil. Gardenias like soil that is rich in nutrients. Work fertilizer, peat moss or manure into the soil to enhance the growth of your plant.
- Plant the gardenia in the prepared area. Plant your gardenias either in the fall or spring. If you are planting more than one gardenia, you must leave three to six feet of space between each plant. The hole you make should be twice as wide as the plant's root ball and only as deep as its length.
- If you are planting your gardenia in a pot, follow the same instructions--the pot will have to be large enough that you can make a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball.
- Place the gardenia in the hole you have made. Cover the root ball with soil so that it is halfway covered, then water the hole. Adding water before you fully cover the gardenia removes any air bubbles and settles the soil. After the water has settled, cover the root ball the rest of the way and pat the soil down around the gardenia. Water the soil and plant again.
- Cover the ground surrounding the gardenia with mulch. In particular, pine mulch works well because it adds to the acidic nature of the soil. Keep the soil surrounding the plant moist until its roots are well established. The mulch should be two inches thick, but shouldn't touch the base of the plant.
[Edit]Caring for Your Gardenia - Water the plant every few days after the initial period of establishment. Try to avoid getting the leaves and blooms soaking wet, as wet leaves are more prone to fungal growth. Water the plant more during extremely dry periods. Gardenias need less water when they are not blooming. Gardenias thrive best when given distilled room-temperature water rather than cold water.[3]
- Check the topsoil of your potted gardenias before watering. If it is still damp, hold off on watering. Many gardenia experts recommend placing your gardenia on a pebble filled tray. You can then pour water on the pebbles, which will in turn provide humidity and moisture for your gardenia.[4]
- Fertilize your growing plant. Gardenias should be fertilized every three weeks. You should use an acid-based fertilizer as gardenias prefer acidic soil and fertilizer. Established plants need fertilizer each March and October.
- Choose from fertilizers such as 6-6-6, 10-10-10, 20-20-20 or 16-4-8. You may find it easier to use a water-soluble fertilizer with your gardenias.
- Prune your gardenia when it is dormant. You should only prune your plant when it is not producing blooms. You should never cut all of the leaves off the plant. You should also 'deadhead' your plant after it is done pruning. This means removing the dead flowers to help your plant produce more blooms.
- Control garden pests. In particular, you should check your gardenias for whiteflies and mealybugs. Other gardenia pests include aphids, spider mites, and thrips. If you notice that your plants have a pest problem, use a horticultural oil to get rid of them.
- Over-watering your plants and planting them too close to one another are both causes of pest problems. Avoid doing both of these things.
- Gardenias are tropical bloomers and like humidity. Consider using a humidifier in the room with your plant if growing it indoors.
- Gardenias prefer warmer days and cooler nights.
- Gardenias can be grown from cuttings that are about 3 inches in height.
[Edit]Warnings - The leaves on the plants may turn yellow if you give your gardenia too much water or it is planted in bad soil.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Acidic soil
- Fertilizer
- Peat moss or manure
- Gardenia plant
- Water
- Mulch
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Make a Homemade Ice Pack Posted: 17 May 2022 01:00 AM PDT A homemade ice pack is a good way to soothe a minor injury or cool down on a sweltering day. Making a flexible, ready-to-go ice pack using household items is quick and simple. Make a Ziploc ice pack with rubbing alcohol and water, dish soap, or corn syrup. Alternatively, make a rice-filled ice pack. Customize your new cold compress with touches like a homemade ice pack cover, food coloring, or scented oil. [Edit]Ziploc Ice Pack - Fill a Ziploc bag with 2 parts water and 1 part rubbing alcohol. Pour a 2:1 mixture of water and rubbing alcohol into a Ziploc freezer bag until it is 3/4 full. If desired, add a few drops of food coloring to customize the color of your homemade ice pack. Remove as much air as possible and seal the bag tightly; put it into a second Ziploc freezer bag to ensure that the liquid doesn't leak out.[1]
- If you do not have rubbing alcohol on hand, consider alternative ingredients to make an ice pack, such as dish soap (on its own, no water necessary) or corn syrup.
- Be careful to keep your materials and ingredients away from infants and small children. Rubbing alcohol is dangerous if consumed in large enough quantities and it can also cause irritation to the eyes. Plastic bags also pose a suffocation risk to babies and small children.
- Freeze the bag. Place the liquid-filled Ziploc bag in the freezer. Leave it there for 1 to 2 hours to freeze. Because of the different freezing points of water and alcohol, the solution will develop into a flexible gel or slush instead of freezing solid.[2]
- Gel icepacks can mold to the contours of your body, which may provide better relief than a traditional ice pack or a bag of frozen vegetables.
- Make a cloth ice pack cover to protect your skin. Before applying your homemade ice pack, you should cover it to avoid direct contact with your skin. Find some thick, comfortable material (e.g., from an old flannel shirt) and cut out a piece that is wider than your ice pack, and twice the length of the ice pack, plus . Fold the material by bringing the ends to meet (and overlap) in the middle. Sew together the top and bottom, lengthwise. Leave the middle part open to easily insert and remove the ice pack.
- As a simpler alternative, just wrap the ice pack in a thin kitchen towel or paper towel before placing it on your skin.[3]
[Edit]Rice Ice Pack - Choose a cloth cover for your ice pack. Customize your ice pack by choosing the material and dimensions. For an easy option, choose an old, clean sock. Pillowcases and other pouches are also good options, provided that the material is tightly knit and the sides are closed up. You can also purchase material and sew something yourself.
- A benefit of making a rice ice pack is that you can also use it as a moist heat pack by microwaving it for 1 to 3 minutes.[4]
- Fill up the pouch with uncooked rice. Fill the container approximately 3/4 full so that the filling will disperse evenly when applied to your skin while maintaining its density. Add a few drops of essential oil if you like to give your pack a nice aroma (e.g., lavender oil, to enhance relaxation).[5]
- You can substitute dried beans for rice, if needed.
- Seal the pouch and freeze it. Sew up the end of the ice pack. Make sure that all of the edges are shut tightly, and that there are no small holes in the material where the rice might fall out. Freeze the ice pack for 2 to 3 hours, or until it is chilled.
- After a few hours in the freezer, the rice should feel just as cold as water ice. Unlike ice, it will simply warm up slowly instead of melting.[6]
[Edit]Sponge Ice Pack - Soak a soft sponge in water. Choose a clean, thick sponge large enough to cover the area you want to apply a cold compress to. Opt for a sponge without an abrasive side for scrubbing. To cover a greater area, use a second sponge as well. Run the sponge under water until it is soaked through.[7]
- Seal the sponge in a zip-top freezer bag. Place the wet sponge (or sponges) in a freezer bag to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the freezer. Remove excess air from the freezer bag by gently squeezing it. Seal the bag tightly and place it in the freezer.[8]
- Freeze the sponge and use it as needed. Freeze the pack for several hours. The pack will be stiff when you first remove it from the freezer, so thaw it for a few minutes if you want it to be flexible when you use it. The sponge will soften gradually as it warms up.[9]
- To protect your skin from ice burns, wrap a thin towel around the bag before putting the ice pack on your body.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Ziploc freezer bags
- Cold water
- Rubbing alcohol
- Dish soap
- Corn syrup
- Hand sanitizer
- Food coloring (optional)
- A piece of thick, comfortable fabric
- A sock or fabric pouch
- Uncooked rice or beans
- Essential oil (optional)
- A sewing kit or sewing machine
- A sponge
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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