| How to Change Classical Guitar Strings Posted: 12 Oct 2018 01:00 AM PDT If your guitar strings buzz, sound blunt, or can no longer hold their tune, this may be a sign that it's time to change out the old strings. Many people who own classical guitars avoid string changes for a very long time because they don't want to mess up the knots at the bridge end or risk changing the sound of their guitar. But never fear. With a little effort, you'll be playing your newly strung and beautifully sounding guitar in no time! EditRemoving the Old Strings - Use your finger or a string winder to loosen the 6th string from the neck. The 6th string should be the thickest string on your guitar. Attach the winder to the tuning peg and twist it in a circle until the string becomes loose enough to pull off the neck. If you don't have a winder, you can loosen it by hand instead (like you would to tune it down) until you can slide it out of the guitar.[1]
- If you're in a hurry, grab a pair of scissors and snip all six strings. Be sure to remove the small scrap parts around the bridge when you finish cutting.
- It's much safer to unwind the strings than to cut them so you won't have pieces of string flying off the guitar.
- Untie the string at the bridge and remove it. Once the string is loose enough, you should be able to undo the knot at the bridge by pushing the string back through where the knot was made. Pull the string back out of the hole to remove it completely from the guitar.[2]
- Safely dispose of the string in a trash can once you remove it from the guitar.
- Remove all of the old strings from the guitar. Working your way down the rest of the guitar strings, remove them one by one until there are no old strings left on the guitar. If you prefer to change the strings one at a time, feel free to do this instead.[3]
- Removing the strings all at once can make it easier when you go to wind the new strings back onto the neck.
- Get a new pack of nylon strings. For classical guitars, you'll want to avoid buying steel strings. Instead, you can pick up your favorite pack of nylon strings at a local music shop or off the internet.[4]
- Never string a classical guitar with steel strings. This will put way too much pressure on the neck, eventually causing it to bend and crack.
EditTying the New Strings to the Bridge - Put the new 6th string through the corresponding hole in the bridge. Push it through the hole so that about of string is sticking out towards the base of the guitar. Be sure that you're using the thickest string in your pack as the new 6th string.
- If one end of your new string has a rough texture while the other end is smooth, use the smooth end to loop through the bridge.[5]
- Loop the 6th string around once. You want it going under the other half of the string. It can be helpful to hold the string steady with your thumb and forefinger as you make the loop and eventually go to make the knot.[6]
- Tuck the string under the loop and pull to tighten it. As you do this, hold the string down against the soundboard. This is important because if you do not hold the string down, it will be sticking up. This will make it loose and it will probably come undone.[7]
- Be sure that the tail of the string comes down over the white lip before you tighten it. This will help to ensure that your knot stays tight.
- Tighten the knot by pulling the string from both sides. You want it as tight as you can get it. Double check that the tail of the string reaches down over the white lip just before you tighten the knot. Tying the knot in the right spot will help to keep your string secure at the bridge.
- You can check your knot again when you go to attach the string to the neck later on. If it looks loose, redo the knot before you continue.
- Repeat with the 5th and 4th strings. The 6th, 5th, and 4th strings (usually E, A and D) are done in the exact same way, but the last three strings are done slightly different. It's mostly the same but you wind it around a few more times.[8]
- Attach the 3rd string using the same process, only tuck it under the loop 3 times instead of 1. Because the 3rd, 2nd, and 1st strings (usually G, B and e) are increasingly skinny, they can slip out of the knot that you tie at the bridge much more easily. To safeguard against this slipping, be sure to tuck the strings under their respective loop 2-3 times.[9]
- Put the string through the bridge as with the 6th, 5th and 4th strings.
- For the 1st string (the e string), some people like to loop the string around the hole twice for extra protection before tying the knot.
- Repeat with the 2nd and 1st strings. These last 3 strings can all be attached in the same way. Use particular care when you attach the 1st string as it is the smallest string and is more prone to slipping out of the knot you tie.
- Feel free to loop the 1st string through the hole twice before you tuck it under the loop and tighten.
- If any of the strings come loose, they can hit into the guitar and take out a small chunk of wood. Use extra care when tightening the knots around the bridge to ensure you keep your guitar safe.
EditAttaching the Strings to the Neck - Turn the tuning peg for the 6th string until the hole is facing up. The string will be easier to work with if you can actually see what you're doing. The new string should be able to run through the hole vertically.
- Thread the new 6th string through the hole once. Push the end of the 6th string down through the corresponding hole on the neck. You can push a few inches of string through the hole to make it easier to grip.[10]
- Although there is another method where the string goes through the hole twice, this method is harder and the first way works just as well.
- Run the string back through the gap below the capstan. The capstan is the white plastic part that you wind the string around. You can pull the string back either above or below the capstan depending on your preference.[11]
- Pull the 6th string tight until there is about of slack in the middle of the neck. You want to leave some slack so that you can tune the guitar without risk of breaking the new string.[12]
- This would be a good time to double check that the knot you made in the bridge is secure.
- Guide the string back through the loop above the capstan. You can do this either once or twice depending on your preference. This should keep the string secure when you wind it up.[13]
- Use your finger or a winder to rotate the tuning peg to tighten the string. Hold the loose string and tighten it up the same way you would to tune your guitar. Keep winding until the string is in tune. You can let go of the loose string after a while.[14]
- Cut off any excess string with a wire cutter. If there is any string sticking out from the head of the guitar, be sure to use a wire cutter to safely remove it. Otherwise, you could accidentally hurt yourself on the string when you go to play your guitar.[15]
- Repeat this process for every string. Working in order from the 6th string to the 1st string one at a time can help make it easier to properly attach the new strings to the neck of the guitar. Be careful not to tighten the strings so much that they snap, just like when you tune your guitar normally.[16]
- After you've attached all of your new strings use a tuner to help you get your guitar back in tune.
- Alternatively, you can attach the new E string before you remove the old A string, and tune the guitar to itself. To do this, play the E string at the 5th fret and match it to the sound of the A string.[17]
- Using a string winder drastically speeds up the winding process. If used carelessly, however, it can increase the chances of having a string snap.
- It can help to use an electronic tuner to help get your guitar back in tune once you've attached all of your new strings, but some people prefer to do this by ear.
- Never overtighten strings until they snap; this puts too much pressure on the bridge and it could fly off and hurt you.
EditThings You'll Need - Guitar
- New pack of classical guitar strings
- String winder
- Wire cutter
EditRelated wikiHows EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Bleach Pine Cones Posted: 11 Oct 2018 05:00 PM PDT Pinecones are plentiful in art stores and in some backyards and parks, making them a cost effective way to decorate a home any season of the year. There are different ways to decorate pine cones, with bleaching being one of the most popular techniques. Using just bleach, water, and a bucket, you can make bleached pine cones of your own. The pine cones can end up having anything from a driftwood look to a blond tone, making this a way to add a unique flair to your interior design. EditPreparing Your Materials - Dress in old clothes and put on protective gloves. Because you will be working with bleach, which can permanently marr your clothing, make sure you are wearing old clothes that you won't mind getting dirty. You also want to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands from the bleach, which can irritate and even burn your skin.
- Wear protective glasses, especially when pouring the bleach into the water. You don't want any splashes getting into your eyes.
- Gather your pine cones. Make sure the pine cones are completely open and dry. Wet and closed pine cones will not bleach well.[1]
- Put the pine cones in your bucket. If you are working with a lot of pine cones, then a five gallon utility bucket will be best. It will have enough room to allow the solution to cover all the pine cones. But, if you are working with smaller pine cones, or with only one or two, then something smaller can work.
- Add 2 parts water to 1 part bleach to the bucket. Make sure there is enough solution to cover all the pine cones.[2]
EditSoaking the Pine Cones - Put rocks or bricks on top of the pine cones to hold them down in the solution. The pine cones will start to float, so you will need at least two rocks or bricks. If some pine cones escape from under the rocks or bricks, then add another rock or brick to make sure they all stay down.
- The pine cones will close up when they are wet. That is supposed to happen and will not affect the bleaching.[3]
- Let the pine cones sit in the bleach water for up to 48 hours. This will give the solution enough time to work.
- Check the pine cones after 12 hours. Some of the smaller pine cones might be ready.
- Again, put on old clothes, the rubber gloves, and protective glasses to protect your skin and eyes.
- Remove the rocks or bricks and start picking through the pine cones to see if any are ready. Your own preference for color will determine if they are ready or not.[4]
- The longer you let the pine cones sit, the more bleached they will look. The bleaching can range from a driftwood appearance to a blond look depending on how long the pine cones were submerged in the solution for.[5]
EditDrying the Pine Cones - Remove the pine cones after 48 hours. Put back on all the protective gear–the old clothes, gloves, and glasses– and gently take the pine cones out.
- Remember that the pine cones will be covered in a bleach solution. Wearing old dirty clothes, gloves, and protective glasses is advisable to protect your clothing, skin, and eyes.
- Place the pine cones on a surface to dry. A tarp, baking sheet, paper towel, or old towel that you won't mind getting bleach on all will work. The pine cones may take up to a week to dry.
- Take them off the drying surface when they are dry and open again. The pine cones should be as dry and open as they were before you poured the solution on them.
- Bake the pine cones if you don't want to wait a week. After you take them out of the bleach solution, let them dry for 24 hours and then bake them at 250 degrees until they open.[6]
- Alternatively, if it is hot out, you can leave them in direct sunlight to speed up the drying process.
- Wear old clothes to prevent the bleach ruining your good ones.
- Work in a well ventilated area or outside. The smell of the bleach can be strong.
EditThings You'll Need - Pinecones
- Bleach
- Large bucket (a five gallon utility bucket works best)
- Water
- Rubber gloves
- Large stones or bricks
EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
| How to Keep Glitter from Falling Off Posted: 11 Oct 2018 09:00 AM PDT If you're a glitter lover, chances are you've run across crafts and body glitters that are susceptible to flaking off and leaving a glitzy, sparkly trail behind you. Luckily, there are a few different ways you can craft with and wear glitter so that it doesn't fall off so easily. Try using Mod Podge to seal in the glitter in your crafting projects, or mix cosmetic-grade glitter with different beauty products to create your own body glitter. EditUsing Mod Podge for Crafts - Add a layer of satin or gloss Mod Podge to your craft. Use a foam brush or paintbrush, depending on your craft, and lightly brush a thorough layer of Mod Podge onto the surface area of whatever you are looking to cover in glitter. Make sure the entire area is coated and that there are no bare spots.[1]
- You can even make your own Mod Podge at home to save money!
- If you don't have Mod Podge, you could also use regular white school glue, though school glue often chips off easily over time.
- Fun ideas of things you can add glitter to: plates, mugs, containers, candles, fabric flowers, glasses frames, cell phone covers, wood, and notebooks or folders.
- Dust, pour, or poof the glitter over the Mod Podged area. Depending on the kind of glitter you are using, you might apply it in a slightly different way. The main thing to remember is that you want to completely coat the Mod Podge in glitter and not leave any empty spaces.[2]
- You can also use a foam brush to spread on your glitter if you want a little more control over how much you use.
- If you are looking for a high-glitter outcome, you can apply a second layer of Mod Podge and glitter immediately after the first one without waiting for it to dry first (it will take a little longer to dry after the second coat, then, but it will be highly glitterized).
- Allow the glitter and Mod Podge to dry for 1-2 hours. Leave your newly glittered item alone for several hours or until it is dry to the touch. Try to leave it in a position so that the Mod Podge and glitter isn't touching any other surface.[3]
- If you are adding glitter to multiple items, this is a great time to continue working on those projects while you're waiting for others to dry.
- Apply a top layer of Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, use your sponge or paint brush to add another thing layer of Mod Podge to your item. Use long, even strokes to reduce the appearance of brush lines. Make sure you cover the entire item and don't leave any raw glitter poking through.[4]
- You could also use watered down school glue to create an opaque sealant for your crafting project.
- The top layer of Mod Podge acts as a sealant and will prevent the glitter from flaking away.
- Let your finished craft dry for 3-4 hours before you use it. Depending on how thickly you applied the Mod Podge, you may need to wait anywhere from 3-12 hours before you can safely use the item without potentially messing up the application. Always check the directions on the bottle for tips and guidelines.[5]
- If you have a dehumidifier, you can set your craft in front of it for a speedier drying time.
- Never place your item directly in front of a heat source, like an electric heater or a hair dryer, as this may cause the Mod Podge to melt or change consistency so it doesn't dry correctly.
- Coat flaking items with sparkle Mod Podge to seal in the glitter. If you have an item that has glitter that is flaking off, you can apply pre-glitterized Mod Podge to add back some sparkle and lock in the remaining glitter. Simply use a sponge or paint brush to apply a thin, even coat of the sealant to the item, then let it fully dry before you use it again.[6]
- Make sure to work on a protected surface, like a counter covered in newspaper or paper towels.
- Mix Mod Podge with your glitter of choice for a stronger glitter look. Pour some Mod Podge into a disposable cup or bowl and mix in as much glitter as you want to make your own glitter sealant. You can make the glitter as weak or as strong as you prefer. Then follow the instructions to apply the Mod Podge and let it dry.[7]
- You can also apply your glitter Mod Podge, another layer of glitter, and then top it off with the glitter Mod Podge again for even more glitter fun.
EditWearing Body Glitter - Combine body oil and loose glitter for an all-body glitter-wearing option. Instead of sprinkling loose body glitter on your arms and hoping it doesn't fall off, combine body oil and loose glitter in a travel-sized shampoo container. Shake the container up really well, and then apply it to your arms, legs, chest, or face whenever you need an extra glitter boost.[8]
- While you could purchase body oils or lotions that already have glitter in them, it can be less expensive and more fun to do it yourself.
- Put petroleum jelly on your skin and add body glitter for a sparkly look. Use a clean makeup or paint brush and apply an even layer of the petroleum jelly to the area you want to cover in glitter (like your collar bones, shoulders, or even your hairline). Then use another clean brush or your hand to gently press loose body glitter onto the jelly.[9]
- Visit a cosmetics store to buy body-specific glitter, which is usually a slightly different consistency than the glitter used for crafting.
- If you don't have petroleum jelly, you could also use hair gel as the sticky base for your body glitter.
- Use this method in areas that aren't going to come into frequent contact with other surfaces. For example, it probably wouldn't work well on your legs if you are going to be sitting and standing and walking around often.
- Mix hairspray and glitter to create glitter brow and hair gel. Spray hairspray into a dish, like a small cup or bowl (or even a disposable Dixie Cup), and add loose glitter. Mix it around with a toothpick or a spoolie brush, and then apply it carefully to your eyebrows or to select strands of your hair.[10]
- Do not use the glitter and hairspray mix on your eyelashes as it could irritate or infect them.
- Wear vibrant lipstick and then add loose glitter for a shimmery lip look. Steer clear of sticky or glossy lipsticks and stick with a cream base to keep the glitter in place better. Put on a layer or two or lipstick, then use your fingers to gently press loose glitter into your lips.[11]
- With this trend, you'll want to avoid pressing your lips together or eating or drinking anything too messy.
- Create a glitter stamp from a makeup sponge and loose glitter. Cut a makeup sponge into a fun shape (like a heart or a star) and dip one side of it carefully into loose glitter. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or hair gel on your body where you want the stamp, and then press the makeup sponge onto the jelly to transfer the glitter.[12]
- Your glitter stamp should stay on all day as long as it doesn't brush up roughly against anything else.
EditKeeping Glitter on Clothes - Use hairspray for a quick fix on your glitter clothing. Take your item of clothing outdoors or to a well ventilated area, and lay it down completely flat. Then spray a light coat of hairspray overtop of the glitter. Use unscented hairspray if you can. Allow the hairspray to dry completely before you wear the clothing item.[13]
- Hairspray is a great, quick fix, but overtime it doesn't hold up, though you can reapply hairspray when you need to. Long-term, you just have to care for and store glittery clothes very carefully.
- Affix glitter to your clothes with fabric glue. Lay out your item of clothing in a clean workspace, and apply the fabric glue in whatever patten you want. Then, carefully shake loose glitter overtop of the glue, coating it so that none of the glue is visible. Let the glue and glitter dry for several hours before picking up the item and shaking off the excess glitter.[14]
- You could even make a stamp out of a sponge and decorate your shirt that way (like stars all over a t-shirt), and then shake the glitter on top of the design.
- Wash glittery clothes sparingly and let them air-dry. When you go to clean your clothes that have glitter on them, try to wash then only when they really need it. Use cold water and the delicate cycle in the washing machine, and don't put them into the dryer. Instead, hang them up to air-dry.[15]
- You could even take your glittery clothes to a dry cleaner instead of washing them yourself.
- When crafting with glitter, try working over a cooking tray. You'll catch all the excess glitter that falls off and can easily return it to its container.
- When making your own body glitter, try to use cosmetic grade glitter rather than crafting glitter.
- Store your glittery clothes in plastic bags to protect them from rubbing up against other items in your closet (and to protect your other clothes from getting glitter all over them).
EditThings You'll Need EditCrafting with Glitter and Mod Podge - Mod Podge (satin, gloss, or glitter)
- Foam brush or paintbrush
- Disposable cup or bowl
- Craft glitter
EditWearing Body Glitter - Makeup or paint brush
- Petroleum jelly
- Hairspray
- Lipstick
- Makeup sponge
- Body oil
- Cup or bowl
- Cosmetic grade body glitter
EditKeeping Glitter on Clothes - Hairspray
- Fabric glue
- Plastic baggies
EditSources and Citations
Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found
|
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário