|DICASTIO|

How to Make Caramel Squares
How to Select a Surfboard
How to Take in the Waist on a Pair of Jeans

Posted: 01 Mar 2019 12:00 AM PST

Caramels are a rich, creamy, and tasty treat that both children and adults love. Homemade caramels are also fun to make, but cooking with sugar is a science and it requires some precision. The keys to making homemade caramel squares are using a candy thermometer and reading the recipe through before you start. Once you get the hang of making these caramels, you'll have a great gift, dessert, and treat that you can use for any occasion.

EditIngredients

1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (225 g) sugar
½ cup (120 ml) corn syrup
¼ teaspoon (1.25 g) salt
4 tablespoons (56 g) butter, plus more for greasing
½ teaspoon (3 ml) vanilla

EditSteps

EditMaking the Caramel

Gather your supplies. This recipe makes about a pound (454 g) of caramels. To make them, you'll need your ingredients, along with a few supplies that will make the job easier, including:
- Large heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Wooden spoon
- Pastry brush
- Candy thermometer
- 10-inch square baking pan greased with butter, or lined with parchment paper
- Pizza cutter or sharp knife
Heat the cream, sugar, and corn syrup. Combine them in the heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat over medium heat. Stir to combine, and continue stirring regularly until the sugar melts.^[1]
- It's important to use a saucepan with a heavy, or thick, bottom because this will help prevent the sugar from burning.
- Make sure you use heavy cream or heavy whipping cream, which both contain at least 36 percent butterfat. This fat quantity is required for the caramelization process.^[2]
Add the butter. Stir in the butter until it melts. Once the butter has melted, bring the mixture to a boil, stirring frequently. As you wait for it to boil, brush down the sides of the saucepan with a pastry brush to remove as much sugar as possible.
- Brushing the excess sugar off the sides will help prevent the caramel from crystallizing.^[3]
Heat the caramel, then add the vanilla and salt. When the mixture comes to a boil, stop stirring. Sit back and let the caramel heat up to 250 F (121 C). When it reaches that temperature, remove it from the heat and stir in the vanilla.^[4]
- It's important that you don't stir the caramel as it heats up, because the agitation can encourage the growth of sugar crystals, which will turn your soft and chewy caramel into a grainy mess.
Pour and cool the caramel. Immediately pour the mixture into the prepared baking pan. After you pour the caramel, you can sprinkle the top with a few pinches of salt if you want a salted caramel flavor. The salt complements the sweetness, and helps bring out the flavor of the caramel.^[5]
- Once the caramel has been poured, set it aside and let it cool to room temperature, about two hours.
Cut the caramel into squares. When the caramel has cooled, turn it out onto a flat surface. Use the pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the caramels into one-inch (2.5-cm) squares.^[6]
- From here, the caramels are ready to eat, cover in chocolate, or package for gifts or storage.

EditStoring Caramel Squares

Wrap the caramels individually. Whether you want to eat your caramels within a few days, give them out as gifts, or store them for a longer shelf life, it's important to wrap them individually. This protects them from moisture, and from sticking together.^[7]
- For each caramel, cut a four-inch (10-cm) square of waxed paper, parchment paper, or plastic wrap. Wrap up each caramel square in an individual piece of paper, and then twist the ends to seal the caramel.^[8]
- Because of the milk in the recipe, room temperature caramels should be eaten within about three days.^[9]
Refrigerate them to enjoy later. Once the caramels are individually wrapped, you can transfer them to a sealable plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator. Keeping them in a plastic bag will help keep them chewy and soft.^[10]
- Refrigerated caramel squares will last for about three months.^[11]
Freeze them for an extended shelf life. To keep your caramels fresh for longer, transfer the individually wrapped treats to a freezer bag, press out all the air, and store them in the freezer.^[12]
- Before using or eating your caramels, give them a few hours to thaw completely.
- Caramels stored in this way will last for up to six months.

EditCovering the Caramels in Chocolate

Cut the chocolate. One way to make caramel squares even more decadent is by covering them with chocolate, and you can do this easily and with just one ingredient. You'll need:^[13]
- One pound (454 g) of milk or semi-sweet chocolate. Cut the chocolate into small pieces to help it melt faster and more evenly.
- A double boiler. If you don't have a double boiler, you can use a small saucepan and a large glass bowl.
Heat the chocolate. Fill the bottom of the double boiler with about an inch (2.5 cm) of water. Place the bowl or top of the double boiler on top, making sure it doesn't touch the water. If it does, pour out a little of the water.
- Place the chocolate into the top of the double boiler and heat it over medium heat. Stir it regularly.
- When the chocolate has completely melted, whisk it vigorously until it's shiny. Turn the heat down low to keep the chocolate warm as you work.
Roll the caramels in chocolate. When the chocolate is ready, drop a few caramels into it. Use two forks or spoons to roll each caramel around in the chocolate, coating each one evenly.
- When the caramels are covered, transfer them to a sheet of wax or parchment paper and set them aside to cool before serving or wrapping.

EditVideo

EditRelated wikiHows

EditSources and Citations

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How to Select a Surfboard

Posted: 28 Feb 2019 04:00 PM PST

Whether you're an experienced surfer or just getting started, choosing the right surfboard for you makes all the difference in being able to ride waves successfully. There are many different types of surfboards meant for different skill levels, weights, and conditions - but just like in any sport, if you don't have the proper equipment tailored to you, you're gonna have a bad time.

EditSteps

EditChoosing a Style

Choose a longboard or funboard to learn the basics of surfing. A longboard is about 8 to 11 feet long and serves as a fantastic starting point for a novice due to its balance and ability to catch smaller waves. A funboard is a little smaller, at 7 to 9 feet long, but is wider than most other surfboards, giving it good stability.
- A funboard is considered easier to maneuver than a longboard, but longboards are the best surfboard for a total beginner.^[1]
Try a shortboard or fish board if you want to tackle more aggressive waves. A shortboard, at 5 to 7 feet long, has a pointed front end and is meant for shredding rough and aggressive waves. A fish board is even smaller than a shortboard but wider, with a dual-pointed rear resembling a large fin, and makes turns both quickly and smoothly.
- If you are just moving beyond a beginner board, try a fish board before a shortboard. You will get used to the maneuverability of a shorter surfboard while adjusting away from long ones.^[2]
Test a hybrid board to combine the aspects of two boards into one. A hybrid board is a combination of any two boards that are similar.
- A shortboard and a fish board hybrid is a common combination, making the shortboard more balanced and able to turn without sacrificing speed.
- A longboard and a funboard hybrid can make it easier to find stability on a heavier board, and can also serve as a good transition from a longboard to another style.
Paddle a SUP instead, a board you can use in any body of water. A SUP is a stable, standing paddle board that can be used to surf very small waves and, with skill, surf larger waves. You can use it in freshwater too, so if you have the surfing itch and live nowhere near an ocean, you can bring this to the lake to start learning.

EditConsidering the Specifics

Ask yourself what conditions and waves you plan to surf. When shopping for a new board, the types of waves you intend to ride and the conditions of the locations you plan on surfing at play a role in what choices you should make about your next surfboard. You don't want to bring a sup to the infamous Mavericks at Half Moon Bay, CA for example.^[3]
- Smaller surfboards are great for tackling midsize to large waves and for maneuvering quickly in tall and narrow waves.
- Large surfboards can help to keep you in the water when the weather starts turning sour, and are great for small to medium sized waves.
Decide whether you want your board's material to be epoxy, polyester, or foam. Most commonly surfboards are made of one of three materials: epoxy,polyester, and foam.^[4] There are certainly other materials used in surfboards, such as balsa wood, but these are far less common than these three materials.
- An epoxy surfboard is very light and can handle high speeds
- A polyester surfboard is affordable and can handle unpredictable wave patterns
- A foam surfboard is usually recommended to beginners for its low risk of injury and its comfort on the water.
Consider the setup of fins on your surfboard. Beginners don't need to worry too much about fin placement and the tail, but if you want to advance your surfing ability, knowing how to alter the shape of your board to suit your needs can get you to the next level of surfmanship. There are usually up to 5 fins on a surfboard, depending on what types of waves you plan on tackling, with three fins being the most common setup.^[5]
- 1 and 2 fin surfboards can't handle large and giant waves
- 4 and 5 fin surfboards have a harder time with small waves than medium-sized ones.^[6]
Look for surfboards slightly larger than you think you need. Large surfboards tend to be more stable, making it easier for you to get to the waves and to be able to keep your balance while surfing. Professional surfer Jesse Merle-Jones suggests that most people who have issues with their surfboard simply have one that is too small.^[7]

EditPurchasing a Surfboard

Get to know local surfboard shapers. Local shapers can customize a surfboard to your specifications and needs, and knowing a handful of local shapers can open up your options for a new surfboard immensely. Having a close relationship with a shaper who knows your weight and preferences for surfing can make the difference in buying a good board and buying a great one.
- If you know a shaper who is located near a favorite surfing spot of yours, they may have specific recommendations for surfing in the area.
Try using a rental version of the board style you want. This can show you whether you really are able to handle a shortboard or a fish board, or can lead you towards an option that feels right for you. Don't be afraid to shell out a few dollars now to test and learn different surfboard styles before committing to a much larger investment down the road.
Test the board in the best conditions you possibly can. This will help you get a feel for riding the new board without having to worry about inclement weather or unpredictable waters. Find a location with good weather and look out for groups of other surfers in the water to find a good spot to catch waves repeatedly and see if it works for you. If you can catch waves, stay balanced, and feel comfortable riding it, congratulations!
- If your board doesn't seem as comfortable or functional as you thought, you may not be able to return it, but you can often take it to a shaper to get it refurbished.^[8]

EditTips

Be honest about your weight, your level of fitness, and your level of skill when buying a surfboard. You may be disappointed with the effectiveness of your surfboard if you don't have it tailored to your physical specifications.

EditWarnings

Unlike many sports, using the equipment that surfing professionals use is not recommended. Just because you have the same surfboard as Kelly Slater, it doesn't mean you will magically be able to surf like he does, and you will likely find yourself disappointed and unable to take to the waves with it at all.

EditSources and Citations

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How to Take in the Waist on a Pair of Jeans

Posted: 28 Feb 2019 08:00 AM PST

If your jeans gap slightly or are a little too big at the waist, you may be able to fix the issue by taking in the waist yourself. If you are an experienced seamstress, take in the waistband in the back for a professional look. For an easier sewing project, try taking in the waist on the sides instead. Even if you don't have the skills or patience to sew your jeans, you can still tighten the waistband without sewing by using an elastic band.

EditSteps

EditAdjusting the Back of the Jeans

Pull the waistband snug from the back and pin it in place. Put your jeans on and pull the back of the waistband with one hand to adjust it to the right size. Pinch the extra fabric of the waistband with your free hand and secure it with a large safety pin. Pinch just below the safety pin to pull out the excess fabric and secure it with a straight pin. Continue pinching and pinning down the back seam until there is no more excess to pin and your jeans fit well in the waist and hips.^[1]
- Be careful not to catch your underwear (or your skin!) when you are placing the pins.
- Try to pin as far down as you can along the seat of the jeans. The further you go down, the less noticeable the transition from the original thread and your new thread will be.^[2]
Mark the inside of the jeans along the pinned seam and take out the pins. Take the jeans off carefully. Place them face up on a flat surface and pull the front waistband down so you can see the inside of the back waistband where you've placed the pins. Mark along the center of the pinned seam with fabric chalk, making sure that it leaves a line on both sides of the seam. Then, take out the pins.
- If you don't have fabric chalk handy, you can also use a highlighter.^[3]
Cut out the waistline stitching between your markings, plus on each side. Use a seam ripper to take out the top and bottom row of stitches along the waistband. Remove all the stitching of the two rows on the waistband between the chalk marks, plus on each side. Leave the stitching along the top edge of waistband and the seat of the jeans for now.
- To make sure you don't rip out too many stitches, try cutting the first and last stitch you would like to take out. Then, pull at the loose threads to take out all the stitching in between.^[4]
Remove the belt loop(s). Take off any belt loops between your two chalk lines. To do this, carefully clip away the thread attaching the belt loop(s) to the waistband.
- If there are any leftover threads from the belt loop after you remove it, leave them in place. Sewing over these when you reattach it later will help disguise the alteration.^[5]
Take out the stitching from the top edge of the waistband and from the center of the seat. Carefully cut the stitching on the top edge of the waistband along the same length where you removed the two rows of waistband stitching. Separate the two layers of the waistband. Use a seam ripper to take out the row of stitching on the inside of the jeans from the waistband down to about below your chalk lines. Remove the corresponding stitching on the outside of the jeans as well to fully separate the seat of the jeans.
- It may make it easier and more precise to cut the first and last stitch you would like to take out, and then pull at the loose threads to remove all the stitching in between.^[6]
Fold the inner layer of the waistband and sew across it with a straight stitch. Fold the waistband across the center back line of the jeans, the midpoint between the two chalk lines. Fold with the right sides (the sides facing towards the outside of the jeans) facing each other, so the folded edge is facing you. Sew where the new altered waistband meets from the top to the bottom of the waistband with a single straight stitch.^[7]
- To reduce the bulkiness of the new waistband, you can cut off the extra fabric outside of your stitches. Leave about of fabric outside the stitches. Press the cut ends of the fabric with an iron so they open up on each side of the seam.^[8]
- You may find it easier to pin where you would like to sew and draw a chalk line as well to help keep you on track.^[9]
Repeat the alteration with the outer waistband. Take in the outer waistband, using the inner waistband as a guide. Fold it in the middle, sew it, then trim and press the edges.
Sew the seat of the jeans back together with a single straight stitch. Pin the seat together by turning the right sides (the outside of the jeans) to face each other. Pin along the chalk lines you made earlier. Sew the seat together with a single straight stitch next to the pins.
- It may help to take a hammer and pound the original jean seam you are sewing across in this step. This will flatten out the layers of fabric there and make it easier to sew across.^[10]
- Try on your jeans after you sew the seat to make sure the seams look straight and properly positioned. If anything looks funny, use your seam ripper to take out the seams and resew that section.^[11]
Sew topstitching with a single straight stitch on the outside of your jeans. To give your altered jeans the same outward appearance again, use topstitching thread to sew from the existing stitching lines up to the waistband in two rows, matching the stitching on the rest of the jeans. Overlap a few stitches with the old stitch line to make it blend together better.^[12]
- Using a longer stitch length setting on your sewing machine can make the topstitching look more professional. Try stitch length.^[13]
- If you have a double needle for your sewing machine, you can also use that to sew both lines of topstitching at once, instead of doing the two lines separately.^[14]
- If you can't find topstitching thread, you can also try to use two strands of all-purpose thread at the same time to get a chunkier look that will better match the original topstitching.^[15]
- If your jeans are very worn along the seat area and the topstitching you put in looks too new and out of place, try roughening it up a bit with a nail file.^[16]
Sew the belt loop back on with single straight stitch. Sew the top and bottom of the belt loop back onto the waistband in the center. Be sure to match the thread color of the other belt loops.
- It may help to hammer where you will sew first, since you will be sewing through many layers of denim.^[17]

EditTaking in the Sides of the Jeans

Put your jeans on inside out and pinch the waist at the sides until it fits. Turn your jeans inside out and put them on. Pinch the waistband on each side until you get the right fit in the waist. Try to pinch an equal amount on both sides so that your jeans will sit evenly after the alteration.
- You can secure the pinched fabric with a large safety pin to help you as you proceed to the next step.^[18]
Secure the excess fabric on both sides with straight pins. Carefully put the pins in the waistband on each side where you have pinched the fabric, as close to your waist as possible to keep the jeans snug. Be careful not to pin your finger. Keeping pinning down the sides of the jeans where you can pinch out loose fabric. Pin as far down as you would like, depending on how you would like the jeans to fit.
- You can pinch and pin just along the waist, down to the mid-thigh, or even all the way down to your knee if you want a extra skinny fit.^[19]
Sew next to your pins with a single straight stitch. Carefully take your jeans off. Sew each side of the jeans along the pinned line. Use a sturdy denim needle, a longer stitch length than normal, and higher tension. Go over the stitches again with a backstitch (reversing back over your stitches) at the beginning and end to secure the stitching in place.^[20]
- Try a stitch length of 2 and a thread tension of 4 to start. If that doesn't work, you can easily take out the stitching with a seam ripper and try again with different settings. Don't be afraid to experiment until you are happy with how your seam looks.
Turn your jeans right side out and try them on. Try your jeans on again and check the fit. You can always take your stitching out and try again if there is something off. If you are happy with the fit, but feel like excess fabric inside the jeans is too bulky, you can cut it out. Leave about a border outside the stitching to prevent the fabric from unravelling. Otherwise, you can leave the fabric in.
- You can also fold the excess fabric to one side and sew the end down so it lies flat inside when you wear them.^[21]

EditUsing an Elastic Band

Pinch the extra fabric at the center back of the waistband. Put your jeans on. Pinch the excess fabric in the back of the waistband so that the jeans fit snugly.
- Ironing the waistband before putting your jeans on can help make your measurements and fit more accurate.^[22]
Mark each side of the pinched fabric on the inside of the jeans. Keep the fabric pinched. Use fabric chalk or a highlighter to make a small line inside the jeans on each side of the pinched fabric where you will want your new, smaller waistband to touch.
Cut two slits in the inner waistband to allow the elastic through. Remove the jeans and lay them with the front side facing up. Pull the front of the jeans down to reveal the back of the waistband. Cut out a few stitches from the bottom of the waistband below each of your two highlighter marks. Use scissors to cut a slit from one of the broken seams to just before the top of the waistband. Only cut through the inner layer of the waistband. Cut another slit on the other side.^[23]
- The slit should be at least long to accommodate the elastic.
Prepare a elastic band. Measure the elastic band and cut it so it is slightly smaller than the distance between the two slits on the waistband. Attach a safety pin to each end of the band.
- The shorter your elastic band, the tighter it will pull the waistband.
Slip the elastic band through the slits and attach it to the jeans. To do this, attach one end of the elastic band with a safety pin to the waistband outside one of the cuts. Thread the other end of the elastic through to the other slit in the waistband. Attach it to the outside of the slit with another safety pin.^[24]
- You may need to cut out the tag from the jeans if you cannot push the safety pin through.
- Only stick the safety pins through the inner layer of the waistband so won't show from the outside.
- If you want to alter the waistband again later, you can always use a looser or tighter elastic band.
- You can also sew the elastic in place with a single straight stitch instead of using safety pins if you want a more permanent solution.