| How to Repair Canvas Posted: 10 Jul 2019 01:00 AM PDT It can be heartbreaking when you notice a tear in an art canvas. Likewise, it can be disheartening to see damage to canvas that's exposed to the outdoors, whether it's used for an awning, a patio umbrella, a camping tent, a sail on a sailboat, or an outdoor cover. But you can repair most of these rips and tears at home by yourself! Holes in art canvases can be patched up with acid-free glue and another piece of canvas. Once the patch is secure, you'll be able to conceal the hole with paint on the front. Patches can be sewn on behind tears in outdoor canvas while adhesive patches will cover up small puncture holes. While you can repair split canvas seams with a flat-felled seam, leave any vinyl replacement work to the professionals. EditPatching Holes in Art Canvas - Lay the torn canvas face-down and smooth out the frayed edges. Prepare a clean, flat surface before laying your canvas down to protect the artwork itself. Adjust the edges of the hole so that the loose fibers are facing the back side. Groom these carefully so that they lie flat on the back side of the canvas.[1]
- If these raw edges are left unattended, you might end up with a bumpy or frayed section on the front of the canvas.
- Cut a patch measuring larger than the hole out of similar canvas. Try to match the weight and fiber content as closely as possible. If the canvas has exposed raw edges where it's been stapled onto on the back side of the frame, use the thickness and texture of these raw edges for reference. Cut a rectangular patch measuring roughly larger on all sides than the hole.[2]
- If the original is a medium-weight linen canvas, for example, look for a linen canvas of a similar weight.
- If you're not sure about the weight and fiber content of the canvas, bring the painting into an art supply store and ask a sales agent to help you find a suitable match.
- For a long rip with no real width, cut a patch measuring about long by wide. You'd widen the patch if the damaged area was more of an open hole than a narrow rip.
- Apply PVA glue to the canvas patch. It's important to use acid-free adhesive to prevent damage to the artwork. Spread a dollop of PVA glue around the back surface of the patch. Use an old brush or your fingertips to smooth it out in an even layer.[3]
- If you prefer, you can use an iron-on adhesive strip instead of glue. Cut the thermoplastic material down to the size of the patch and iron it onto the patch. Remove the backing and then iron it onto the back side of the artwork, using a press cloth to prevent the art canvas from scorching.[4]
- Press the patch glue-side down onto the hole. Once your patch is covered with a layer of PVA glue, place it over the back side of the hole, centering it over the hole. Press it down firmly on all sides. Smooth out the patch with your hands to remove any air bubbles.[5]
- If the original art canvas doesn't meet in the middle and you're left with a hole, place some parchment paper underneath the artwork before gluing down the patch to prevent the glue from sticking to the work surface beneath it.
- Leave a flat board and weight on top of the patched area for 24 hours. You'll want the glued-on patch to dry as flat as possible, so you'll need to weigh it down. Place a piece of stiff board or a block directly on top of the patched region.[6]
- Add a weight or heavy book on top to add some additional pressure.
- Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours before removing the board and weights.
- Paint over the damaged area on the front of the canvas. Heavy-bodied paints like oils and acrylics will conceal the raw edges on the front of the painting. Using the same type of paint and the same colors, mix together a matching shade and use a brush to carefully paint over the tear.
- Be patient and build up layers of color gradually.[7]
- Allow it to dry completely and you shouldn't be able to see the tear from the front of the canvas.
- Apply the paint in a moderately thick coat to adequately cover up the raw edges. But don't smear it on so thickly that it's noticeably different from the rest of the artwork.
EditPatching Tears in Outdoor Canvas - Determine whether the canvas is synthetic or natural with a burn test. Find out whether your canvas is made of synthetic or natural fibers by reading the label or manufacturer's guide, or by doing a simple burn test. Cut off a small fiber from the damaged area and pick it up with metal tweezers. Hold it near a lit cigarette lighter or hot soldering iron.
- If the fiber melts and beads up, it's synthetic. Therefore, it will be safe to seal off the frayed edges with heat.[8]
- If the fiber becomes ashy and disintegrates, it's a natural fiber like cotton.
- Avoid bringing the canvas in contact with the lighter flame; the heat alone will melt it.
- Seal off torn edges in synthetic canvas using a soldering iron or lighter. Synthetic canvas will melt when exposed to heat, preventing it from fraying. Carefully hold the tip of a cigarette lighter or soldering iron at the torn edge, without actually bringing the flame in contact with the fabric. Wait a few seconds until the canvas starts to melt from the heat. Then slowly move along the tear to seal off all of the raw edges.[9]
- Be very careful not to light the canvas on fire and cause bigger repair problems!
- Use clear nail polish or Fray Check to seal the raw edges of natural canvas. If you're repairing canvas made of a natural fiber, apply a single coat of clear nail polish or Fray Check around the raw edges to seal them off. Allow the sealant to dry completely before adding the patch.
- The heat sealing method doesn't work on cotton, linen, and other natural canvases since the fibers will disintegrate when exposed to the flame.[10]
- Pin a canvas patch behind the tear. You can purchase a canvas repair kit for your project, or order a sufficient length of outdoor canvas online from a specialty manufacturer. Cut out a patch that measures wider than the tear on all sides. Use straight pins to hold the patch in place on the underside of the tear.[11]
- Choose a canvas in a similar color to the item you're repairing. If you can't get the exact color, choose a darker shade. Lighter patches will be more noticeable.
- For a tear measuring long by wide, cut a by patch.
- Sew the patch in place using a machine straight stitch. Set your sewing machine up with a heavy-duty needle and durable, UV-resistant thread. Stitch around the perimeter of the patch with a straight stitch, adding backstitches at the beginning, end, and corners for extra durability.[12]
- Don't hand-sew the patch. It may look untidy and won't be as durable as a machine-sewn hem.
- Stitch down or darn the ripped edges on the machine. To darn the hole, run a straight stitch in a wide zig-zag all the way down the tear on your machine.[13] Alternatively, run a straight stitch around the outside edge of the hole to secure the loose fabric down.
- This is especially useful if the damaged area features a wide gash or a long cut and you're left with loose flaps of canvas on top of the patch.
- When darning synthetic canvas that you've melted the edges of, be very careful as you work over the stiff melted areas. Go slowly or use the handwheel when you reach these spots to avoid breaking your needle.
EditFixing Other Outdoor Canvas Issues - Place an adhesive canvas patch behind a small hole. Purchase a canvas repair kit or a specialty adhesive canvas patch. Clean off the damaged area with an alcohol wipe to remove any dirt and debris. Then cut the patch down to size, leaving it roughly larger than the hole on all sides. Peel off the backing and press the patch onto the canvas, smoothing it out to remove any air bubbles.[14]
- Any minor puncture or tear measuring less than can be repaired with an adhesive patch. For a round hole, cut a circular or square patch measuring across.
- The patch should have some stretch so it can move with the canvas.
- Opt for a clear patch if you can't find one in a matching color.
- Create a flat felled seam on a sewing machine when repairing a split seam. Set up your machine with a heavy-duty needle and durable, UV-resistant thread.[15] Line up and pin the torn edges with the right sides of the canvas together. Sew a straight stitch, leaving a seam allowance. Press the seam open, with both parts of the seam allowance to one side. Pinch the seam allowance edges and fold them underneath themselves, so that the raw edges touch the stitches you just made. Pin or press these in place, then run 1 or 2 straight stitches over the seam allowance.[16]
- A flat felled type of seam is effective because the raw edges and the first seam lines are protected from exposure to the elements.
- It's very important to use a durable needle and slow sewing speed since you'll be going over 5 layers of fabric for the finishing stitches.
- Hire a professional to replace cloudy or discovered vinyl windows in the canvas. If the vinyl panels in your boat cover or camping tent have deteriorated, know that you don't need to replace the entire canvas. Sewing on a new piece of vinyl requires an industrial sewing machine and heavy-duty supplies, so for the best results, contact your local boating repair shop and ask if they can make this repair for you.[17]
- Getting vinyl windows replaced could save you about 70% over purchasing new canvas covers.
- Even if you notice a split in the seam between the vinyl window and the canvas, take it to a professional since the material will be too tough for a home sewing machine to handle.[18]
- If part of your outdoor canvas is completely shredded, it may be worth looking into a replacement before undertaking a complex repair on your own. Ask a professional for quotes for repairing and replacing the canvas so you can weigh your options.
- Prevent outdoor canvas damage by applying a spray-on waterproof canvas shield.
EditThings You'll Need EditPatching Holes in Art Canvas - Art canvas
- Canvas patch
- Scissors
- Acid-free glue
- Stiff board
- Weight(s)
- Paint
- Paintbrushes
- Iron-on adhesive patch (optional)
- Iron (optional)
- Press cloth (optional)
EditPatching Tears in Outdoor Canvas - Soldering iron or lighter
- Canvas patch
- Straight pins
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Heavy-duty machine needle
- UV-resistant thread
EditFixing Other Outdoor Canvas Issues - Adhesive canvas patch
- Scissors
- Sewing machine
- Heavy-duty machine needle
- UV-resistant thread
- Iron
- Boating repair service (optional)
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences
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| How to Get Hydrangeas to Bloom Posted: 09 Jul 2019 05:00 PM PDT Hydrangeas are beautiful when they bloom in spring and summer. However, sometimes they don't bloom the way you want them to. Hydrangea flowers can be finicky, but taking care of your plant's needs increases your chances of getting to experience an amazing bloom. Most problems are issues of watering, sunlight, and soil quality. Proper pruning also helps, and remember to protect plants from harsh weather and pests. Care for your hydrangeas and you will likely end up with stunning blossoms to admire. EditSelecting a Good Planting Spot - Place hydrangeas where they'll receive 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. The best spots are ones that receive most of this sunlight in the early morning hours. Watch your yard to see which spots the sun shines on throughout the day. If your plant looks healthy but still isn't blooming, it might not be getting enough sun. Most hydrangeas won't bloom at all in the shade.[1]
- Hydrangeas are somewhat delicate when it comes to sunlight, so too much sun can burn them. If your plant has brown scorch marks on its leaves and blooms, move it to a cooler area.
- Plant hydrangeas away from big trees and other plants. Big trees are a double threat to hydrangeas since they cast plenty of shade and take up a lot of water. If your hydrangeas won't bloom, take a look at their neighbors. Place them on the edges of shade cast by tall trees. Otherwise, create a separate space in the garden for them or pair them with other plants that won't overpower them.[2]
- If you're building a big garden, grow healthy hydrangeas near plants that bloom at the same time. Some examples include foxglove, dogwood, heucherella, and various types of shrubs.
- Keep hydrangeas in fertile but well-drained soil. Test your soil by digging a hole and filling it with water. If it drains within 5 to 15 minutes, then your soil is fine for flowers. Even though hydrangeas drink up a lot of water, too much of it leads to root rot and plants that won't bloom.[3]
- Organic compost causes waterlogged soil to drain faster. Purchase some compost, peat moss, or something similar from a gardening center. Mix it into the soil after digging out your hydrangea.
- If you're stuck dealing with pools of water over your soil, try building a raised planting bed. Build a frame out of wood, then fill it with a sandy loam from a gardening center.
- Take a sample of the soil to test its pH. Purchase a testing kit at a home improvement store and mix a sample of your soil with a little bit of water to perform a litmus test. The soil pH affects how your hydrangeas bloom. Aim for a pH between 5 and 8 depending on what color of bloom you are aiming for. As long as the soil doesn't have an extreme pH like 3 or 10, then it won't stop hydrangeas from blooming.[4]
- Many hydrangeas produce a rainbow of blooms depending on the pH. Aim for a pH of 5.5 or lower to get blue flowers and 6.5 or higher for pink and red flowers. Anything between that is likely to produce purple.
- White hydrangeas, such as French hydrangeas, don't change no matter what the pH is. If you have a white hydrangea that doesn't bloom, the problem isn't the soil pH unless it is unusually low or high.
- Amend the soil to change the pH to a safe level if it's too high or low. Compost, coffee grounds, and other organic materials are great ways to adjust the soil. Spread them around hydrangeas to gradually [[Lower Soil pH|lower the pH. Raise the pH by adding wood ash, lime, or some fertilizers. Bring the pH to a safe level in order to get the blooms you desire.[5]
- Use fertilizers high in phosphorus to make the soil more alkaline and encourage pink blooms. A 25-10-10 fertilizer works well. The numbers are the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, respectively.
EditWatering and Protecting Hydrangeas - Water hydrangeas about 3 times a week to keep the roots moist. Hydrangeas are notorious water hogs. Several times a week, use a hose to spray the water around the soil instead of directly onto the plant. Add it in the morning to keep the soil cool and moist throughout the day. Then, let the water soak in for up to half an hour before testing the soil again.
- Test the soil every day by sticking your finger in it. If it feels dry, add water to keep the soil loose and moist. You may need to water your plants once every 2 days during hot, dry summers.[6]
- Some hydrangeas burn through water more quickly than others. Bigleaf and smooth hydrangeas are the ones that drink up the most water.
- You'll need to add about of water a week to the soil.[7]
- Moist soil feels loose and wet but not soggy. It sticks to your finger or any tools you push into it. As long as it doesn't feel bone dry, your hydrangeas will be fine.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer at least once a year. All you need is a basic gardening fertilizer with a number rating like 12-4-8. The numbers represent the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer, respectively. Spread this fertilizer around each hydrangea at a rate of per of ground in late May or early June. Mix it up to deep into the soil to keep your hydrangeas healthy.[8]
- The 12-4-8 fertilizer balance is low in phosphorus, so it is good for encouraging the unique blue blooms some hydrangeas get. If you're looking for red or pink blooms, choose something with more phosphorus, such as a 25-10-10 fertilizer.
- Another option is to use a fast-release 10-10-10 fertilizer. Sprinkle it on the soil in May and again in July. If you don't normally use fertilizer and notice yellow spots on the leaves, a quick application of fertilizer can save the hydrangea.[9]
- Adding too much fertilizer can damage hydrangeas. You may see your plants begin to wilt and burn like they would after receiving too much sun.
- If you add the fertilizer after August, your plants will become too soft to survive the winter. Even though it could help you get some nice blooms during the season, it isn't worth it for the next growing season.
- Spread a layer of mulch in the spring. Mulch is important for insulating your plants from heat, cold, and water loss. Get an organic mulch and add it before each hydrangea begins blooming. Keep the mulch about from the stems to prevent them from rotting. Then, let your hydrangeas grow until the next season.[10]
- Add a new layer of mulch every spring to ensure your hydrangeas have a chance to bloom. Remember to water the soil thoroughly after adding mulch.
- Some good mulch choices to look out for include pine needles and bark. These types make soil a little more acidic, which helps hydrangeas bloom.
- Spray a deer repellant onto hydrangeas to drive away pests. Look out for barren hydrangeas if you live in an area with a lot of deer! Many times, hungry deer are the reason why a healthy hydrangea doesn't seem to bloom. Get a repellent from a gardening center and spray it onto the plant's leaves and stem every 30 days.[11]
- Deer netting is an option to drape over your plants. It works best in winter since hydrangeas will break through it as they grow during the warmer months.
- Deer tend to stay away from oakleaf and climbing hydrangeas, so these types are great options if you're in an area with lots of hungry deer.
- Treat hydrangeas with fungicides to eliminate diseases. Most of the time, sunlight and water stop hydrangeas from blooming, but there are a few diseases that could affect your plants. Look for unusual colored spots on the leaves and flowers. Green, yellow, and brown spots are some common signs that require you to purchase a fungicide from the gardening center to spray on the infected area.[12]
- For example, white mildew spots are treatable. Brown spots and tan rings come from other funguses.
- In addition to applying a fungicide, take care of your hydrangea's needs. Many funguses come from excess moisture. Make sure you water your plants appropriately and provide plenty of air circulation.
- If you aren't able to treat a disease, get rid of the infected plant as soon as possible to prevent the disease from spreading. Dead or dying plants that look badly discolored often aren't salvageable and can ruin any other hydrangeas you have.
EditPruning Hydrangeas - Use a visual guide if you don't know what type of hydrangeas you have. Most people don't realize there are so many different types of hydrangeas. Knowing what kind you have can help you better care for your plants and choose the right time to bust out your gardening shears. In general, there are several main types of hydrangeas commonly grown in gardens. They are easy to identify by appearance.[13]
- Bigleaf hydrangeas are the most common type. They have big leaves at least long and often have big, puffy flowers. Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are a few examples.
- Smooth hydrangeas like the Annabelle variety grow over tall and can tolerate hotter climates. Annabelle hydrangeas have those big snowball flowers that grow thick.
- Panicle hydrangeas like the PeeGee have large, cone-shaped flowers. They are more resistant to cold weather than other types. They are often very large, as in tree height.
- Like the name suggests, oakleaf hydrangeas have the same star-shaped leaves as oak trees. The leaves also turn colors in the fall. These plants have white, cone-shaped flowers.
- A climbing hydrangea is a type of vine. It spreads slowly but produces tiny, white flowers that are ball-shaped like lacecaps.
- Let the hydrangea grow out to figure out when it blooms. If you're still unsure when your plant blooms, leave it alone for a full season. Hydrangeas are relatively low-maintenance and don't need a lot of pruning. Watch the plant to see which buds turn into flowers. It could come either from last year's buds or on the new growth.[14]
- Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood form buds at the end of the growing season in autumn and bloom in early spring.
- Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood develop buds in early spring and bloom by autumn.
- Prune away old stems on plants that bloom late in the year. If your hydrangea flowers on old wood, it makes new flowers on any branches left to grow for a year. Wait for the blooms to fade around late summer or early fall. Then, use a pair of gardening shears to remove weak or damaged stems. Cut these stems all the way to the ground to give the new stems plenty of space to grow and make more vibrant flowers next year.[15]
- Bigleaf, or French, hydrangeas work this way. They don't need much pruning, so trim good stems back to the first healthy buds. Remove the flowers as they fade by the end of the growing season.
- You can cut off approximately ⅓ of the plant's stems to make it grow back stronger next year.
- Oakleaf hydrangeas also bloom on old wood but don't need much pruning. Remove damaged branches and shape it after the flowers begin fading.
- Trim plants with early blooms before they begin growing in spring. Smooth and panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood. Take care of these plants in late winter or early spring before they wake up. Try removing weaker and damaged branches to keep the plant strong and shapely. The new growth will end up making flowers during the growing season.[16]
- These types of hydrangeas are extra hearty, so you could even cut them down to the ground and still end up with new flowers during the growing season.
- There are also some newer types of hydrangeas that bloom multiple times a year. You can trim these repeaters as needed throughout the growing season, starting in early spring. Cut faded flower stems to half their length and wait to prune branches until the last bloom in autumn.
- A lot of bigger hydrangeas, including the popular Annabelle variety, have heavy flowers. Tying the stems to stakes can help prevent them from sagging.[17]
- New hydrangeas can take as long as 5 years to bloom. If you're looking for something quicker, choose bigger, more mature, or flowering hydrangeas from a gardening center.[18]
- Try to pick a hydrangea that is the right size for your garden in order to reduce the amount of pruning you have to do.
- Hydrangeas can be grown in pots, which allows you to move them to better growing spots if needed.
- Keep in mind that late frosts can damage hydrangea buds and prevent them from blooming. If your hydrangea begins growing before your area gets hit by a sudden chill, it could lose all its buds.
EditThings You'll Need EditSelecting a Good Planting Spot - pH testing kit
- Shovel
- Water
- Compost or other amendments
EditWatering and Protecting Growing Hydrangeas - 10-30-10 slow-release fertilizer
- Soaking hose or drip irrigator
- Pine mulch
- Deer repellant (optional)
- Fungicide (optional)
EditPruning Hydrangeas - Gardening gloves
- Pruning shears
- Visual identification guide (optional)
EditReferences
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| How to Build a Campfire Pit Posted: 09 Jul 2019 09:00 AM PDT Enjoying a night under the stars in the great outdoors with a crackling campfire nearby is tough to beat. However, it's important to remember that a successful campfire is a safe campfire. Choosing the right spot for your fire, crafting a containment ring to keep the coals from escaping, and keeping supplies handy to quickly extinguish the flames are the keys to building a safe campfire. EditSelecting the Area for the Pit - Make sure it's legal to start a fire in your area. Before you build a campfire pit, you need to make sure it's allowed and if there any special steps or precautions that you're required to take. If you're at a campground or a park, ask the park ranger or check the rules about building a fire. There may be rules about where or how large of a fire you can build. If you're not sure, don't build a fire![1]
- Check the local fire-danger level, which is usually displayed at ranger stations or along roads. If you can't find one, try looking online or calling the local government office.
- Select a flat spot away from trees, dry grass, and lots of leaves. Low hanging branches from trees and lots of brush or dry grass can easily catch fire and get out of control quickly. Choosing flat and level ground to build a campfire pit will also help prevent any coals or embers from rolling away. A good rule of thumb is to choose an area that is at least away from trees and brush.[2]
- Pick a spot that protects your fire pit from the wind. Take note of strong prevailing winds and choose a location that is protected from direct exposure to them. Strong winds can blow coals from the fire and spread it. Try to avoid building a campfire pit in an open area exposed to high winds.[3]
- Use natural features like hills or boulders to shield your fire pit from the wind.
- Arrange your camp so that the wind is at your back to block or deflect it from blowing directly onto your fire.
- If the wind is strong enough to blow debris around, it's too windy to start a fire!
- Choose a place at least away from your lodging. It may be tempting to build a nice fire near the entrance of your cabin or tent to help keep warm, but the materials that make up your tent, cabin, or other form of lodging may not need to be exposed to a direct flame to heat up and catch fire. Be sure to choose a place for your fire pit that's far enough away from your lodging and camping supplies.[4]
- Don't place a sleeping bag next to a campfire because the material could catch fire before you notice it!
EditBuilding a Containment Ring - Clear an area at least around the pit. Before you start to build the containment ring for your fire, you should remove any fire hazards that could cause the fire to spread. Pick up any sticks, leaves, or other flammable material around the area of your fire pit.[5]
- Even if the leaves or branches are damp, you still need to clear them from the area because they could dry out and catch fire.
- Try to rake up any dry leaves as well.
- Dig out a bowl-shaped indentation about deep. A small indentation in the ground will help contain the coals and protect them from the wind. It also allows your fire to burn bright and hot with less smoke because the coals are concentrated in the bowl. Use a shovel or a sturdy stick to dig out the indentation.[6]
- The width of the bowl could vary depending on how large of a fire you're building, but a diameter bowl should be sufficient for most campfires.
- Use rocks or large logs to form a diameter ring. Rocks that are fist-sized or larger are great for making a containment ring. Place them side by side without any gaps in between them to form a containment circle. You could also use large logs to make a ring around the fire pit—just make sure they're not so dry that they'll catch fire easily.[7]
- A ring with a diameter should be large enough for a medium-sized fire, but you can make a larger ring if needed.
- Build a fire inside the containment ring. Gather some small brush or leaves for tinder, some dry, medium-sized branches for kindling, and larger dry logs to use as fuel for your fire. Make a teepee structure with your tinder and kindling and light the tinder at the center of the teepee. Add the larger logs when the fire gets going.[8]
- You'll need about 4-5 logs to keep a campfire burning for 2 hours, so make sure you gather enough.
- Keep the logs you plan to use as fuel at least away from the fire pit so there's no chance they could catch fire.
- Make sure you gather enough fuel to last for as long as you need a fire.
- Bring your own firewood if there isn't any available around you or if you're not permitted to collect it. Contact a park ranger or a local government office to make sure you can gather and burn wood around you.
- Keep a bucket that holds of water nearby. It's always a good idea to keep a bucket or large container of water near the area of the fire pit in case you need to put out any sparks or embers that pop out of the fire. A fire can get out of control quickly, so keep enough water to put the whole fire out at a moment's notice.[9]
- Always put out your fire when you are ready to leave. Soak the pit with water before you leave, even if you let the fire die out on its own.
- Keep a fire extinguisher on hand as well to prevent a possible forest fire.
- Having water nearby also makes the job of extinguishing the fire quick and easy.
EditThings You'll Need - A bucket
- Fire extinguisher
- Shovel or sturdy stick
- Rocks or large logs to form a ring
- Kindling
- Brush or leaves for tinder
- Medium-sized branches for kindling
- Large logs for fuel
- Never leave a campfire unattended. Make sure your fire is completely extinguished before you leave the area or go to sleep.
EditRelated wikiHows EditReferences
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