How to Restore Hardwood Floors Posted: 26 Aug 2019 01:00 AM PDT It's a great feeling to realize that you have beautiful hardwoods underneath the carpet in your home, and you can refinish it so your floors look brand new! After you remove the old carpet, you need to sand the floor to make sure it's smooth and level. Then you can apply stain and a polyurethane finish to protect the wood. If the wood is scratched, you can buff it to smooth it out even more. When you're finished, your room will have new floors that will last your years!. [Edit]Removing the Carpet - Remove any furniture and accessories from the room. Work with a helper so you can carry heavy pieces of furniture into a different room. Then take out any accessories that are near or on the floor, such as vent covers or rugs, so you can rip up the carpet.[1]
- Take down any long curtains so they don't get in the way while you work.
- Vacuum the old carpet. Dirt and dust can get in the way when it's time to sand your floors. Before you pull up the old carpet, go over the entire carpet thoroughly with your vacuum to get rid of any dirt. Vacuum the area 1-2 times to get the most dirt out of the carpet so it doesn't transfer to a different room.[2]
- Begin in one corner and pull up your carpet. You can start in any corner of your room. Pry up the edge of the carpet with a pry bar so you have a handhold. Then slowly pull up the carpet, moving to the center of the room. Once you've pulled all the corners out, roll up the carpet so you can remove it easily.[3]
- To make things easier, use a razor knife to cut through the carpet so you can remove it in sections.
- Wear work gloves if you want to get a better grip.
- Pull up the carpet pad. Start in one of the corners of your room and lift the edge of the carpet pad with a pry bar. Grab the edge of the pad and slowly pull it back toward the center of the room. Don't move too fast since the carpet pad could rip and make it more difficult to move in one piece. Once the pad is lifted, roll it up and take it out of the room.[4]
- Some of the carpet pad may come up with carpet depending on how old it is.
- Pry up any carpet staples or tack strips from the wood. Look for staples in your floor since they might have held the carpet pad down. Pry the staples out of the floor with the back of a claw hammer. To remove tack strips, place the flat edge of a pry bar near one of the nails in the board. Hit the end of the pry bar with a hammer to lift up the board. Pull each nail out of the floor so you can remove the tack strip in one piece.[5]
- Tack strips have nails that point up, so stand back while you're prying the boards in case they break and watch where you grab them.
- Remove any carpet adhesive. Check the color of the adhesive under your carpet if there is any. If it's yellow, use a plastic scraper or a chisel to break it apart. If the adhesive on the floor is dark brown or tan, scrub the floor with cleaning rags and an adhesive remover, such as mineral spirits. If there's any residue left from the adhesive, then use a general purpose adhesive cleaner to remove it.
- Adhesive remover is flammable, so make sure any sources of sparks or fire are removed.
- Remove the baseboards. Using a razor knife, score the top edge of the baseboards where they meet the wall. Beginning at a corner, place a pry bar between the baseboard and the wall, then slowly pull forward. Then move along the baseboard and pry it again. Once the board is loose, pull it off the wall in one long piece. Continue removing the rest of the baseboards in the room.[6]
- Cover any openings with plastic. You can reuse old plastic sheeting from old projects or you can buy some from your local hardware store. Cover all of your doorways, light fixtures, and any other openings, such as fireplaces. Tape around the edges of the plastic sheeting with painters' tape so the openings are completely covered.[7]
- You can buy special vent covers that still allow air flow while preventing dust from getting inside.
[Edit]Sanding the Floors - Sand your floor with a random orbital sander and 30- to 40-grit sandpaper. A random orbital sander doesn't leave any pattern in your floor after you've sanded it. Load the sander with 30- to 40-grit sandpaper to help smooth out rough finishes. Begin in the corner farthest from the door and turn your sander on. Follow in the same direction as the floorboards, moving the sander in a tight circular motion. Continue sanding in a long strip from one corner of your room to the other.[8]
- Many sanders have a dust discharge that you attach a vacuum hose to. Otherwise, you can tape a shop-vac hose to the handle and run the vacuum while you sand to catch the dust.
- Overlap each row as you sand. Once you reach the opposite corner of the room, start sanding a new strip going back toward the other side of the room. Overlap the first strip by so you don't miss any spots while you're sanding.[9]
- Touch up the edges with a hand sander after you've finished the rest of the room. When you're using a random orbital sander, you won't be able to reach the very edges of the room. Instead, use a hand sander loaded with 30- to 40-grit sandpaper. Set the sander in the corner, flush against the wall, and move slowly down the edge, following the grain of the floor.
- When you're working on a wall that doesn't follow the grain of your floor, pull the sander away from the wall so you follow the same direction.
- Sand the corners with a detail sander. A detail sander is slightly smaller than a hand sander and fits into tight spaces, like the corners of your room. Attach 30- or 40-grit sandpaper to the detail sander, and smooth out any small areas that you couldn't reach before. Make sure the floor feels smooth when you're finished.[10]
- If you don't have a detail sander, you can use a sanding sponge instead.
- Vacuum up any dust once you're finished. Use a brush attachment on your vacuum to lift up the dust without damaging your wood floors. Vacuum the entire floor to remove any sawdust created from sanding the floors. Make sure you get into the corners well, since dust can gather there.[11]
- Try to sweep up as much sawdust as you can before you sand so you don't have to clean your vacuum as much.
- Repeat the entire sanding process with 60- and 100-grit sandpaper. Load all of your sanders with 60-grit sandpaper, which will help smooth your floors even more without leaving noticeable marks. Go through the room with the random orbital sander first, followed by the hand and detail sander. Vacuum the room to clean up the sawdust before sanding the floor again with 100-grit sandpaper.[12]
- If the floor still feels a little rough, use a 120-grit screen to go over the floor again. You can use the orbital sander or you can sand by hand if there are only a few rough spots.
- Vacuum and damp mop the floor. Once you're completely finished sanding, make sure the floor is completely clean by vacuuming it with the brush attachment. Once you clean up as much sawdust as you can, use a slightly damp mop to wipe the whole floor to pick up any dust you missed with the vacuum.[13]
- Clean any dust on the window sills, windows, and any other molding in the room with a damp cloth.
- Wipe the floor with mineral spirits. Mineral spirits is a solvent used to remove old wax from the hardwood floor so you can stain it if you want. Wet the end of a rag with the mineral spirits and wipe the floor clean. Work from one corner and work toward the other side of the room.[14]
- Mineral spirits is flammable so don't keep it near an open flame or heat source.
[Edit]Staining the Floor - Apply the stain with a lambswool applicator. Use a wood stain that's meant for hardwood floors. Start in a corner opposite the doorway into the room, and then move toward the exit. Work in spaces that are at a time, and spread the stain evenly over the wood. Make sure there aren't any puddles forming, and if there are, wipe the excess away with a rag.[15]
- Overlap your next section of stain. While the stain in the first section is still wet, start the next section right next to it. Use your applicator to spread the stain over the area, overlapping the edge of the first section by so you don't miss any spots and get even color.[16]
- You can buy wood stain from paint and home improvement stores.
- Buy a lambswool applicator from a local hardware store or paint shop.
- Work quickly so the stain doesn't have time to dry. If the edges of the sections dry before you work on the next section, your floor will look like it has stripes.
- Use a paintbrush to stain the corners. Dip the end of the paintbrush into the stain and apply a thin coat in the corner and along the wall. Follow the grain of your floorboards to help hide any brushstrokes. Make sure to work the stain all the way to corner so you don't miss any spots.[17]
- Let the stain dry overnight to see its true color. Your stain might look darker when you first apply it since it hasn't absorbed into the wood fully. Allow the stain to dry and set completely, which usually takes about 8-12 hours. Once the stain is dry, look at the color to see if you're happy with it.[18]
- If you want to stain your floors darker, apply another thin coat of stain.
[Edit]Applying Polyurethane - Ventilate the room before you begin. Polyurethane has a very strong odor and it can be overwhelming in a small space. Open as many windows and doors as possible to get proper ventilation.
- You can also wear a paper face mask to protect yourself from the fumes.
- Stir the polyurethane. Take the lid off of the polyurethane can and use a paint stir stick to mix the polyurethane. Don't shake the can to stir the polyurethane since it could form air bubble and leave an uneven finish on your floors.[19]
- You can buy polyurethane sealer from your local hardware or home improvement stores.
- Clean the applicators you're using for your polyurethane. Use a lambswool stain applicator and a natural-bristle paintbrush to apply the polyurethane. Stick a piece of painter's tape on the stain applicator to remove any excess fibers so they don't get stuck in the sealant. Pull out any loose bristles from the paintbrush before using it.[20]
- You can buy stain applicators from your local hardware store.
- Begin in the far corner of the room with the brush. Starting in the corner farthest from the door, use the brush to apply polyurethane near the wall. Dip the brush into the polyurethane can and gently brush a thin layer about into the room from the wall. After you paint a border around the room, use the lambswool applicator to spread the polyurethane. Work backward toward the door so you can easily get out when you're finished.[21]
- Make sure you overlap each stroke slightly to get an even finish.
- Let the polyurethane dry before applying a second coat. The manufacturer's instructions should tell you how long to let the polyurethane dry, but it should be anywhere from 8 hours to overnight.[22]
- Apply a second coat of the polyurethane and let it dry. Repeat the same process as before for your second coat. Start around the edges of your room and work toward the center. Make sure you get even coverage with the polyurethane so your floor is level. Let the polyurethane dry for 2-3 days before using the room.[23]
- If the floor feels sticky or tacky, then let it dry for longer.
[Edit]Refinishing Scratched Floors - Clear out the room and clean your floors. Make sure you remove all furniture from the room or rooms where you want to refinish the floors. Vacuum the floor to get up any dirt or debris that might be there. Spray a hardwood floor cleaner on the floor and then wipe the floor with a terrycloth mop.[24]
- You can find hardwood floor cleaner at most home improvement stores. If you can't find any, you can mix your own with 10 parts water to 1 part white vinegar.
- If you don't have a terrycloth mop, you can wrap a towel around your mop head instead.
- Sand the perimeter of the room using 180-grit sandpaper. Work by hand so you can get closer to the wall than you could with a large sander. Sand into the room from the wall. Keep sanding until the floors look dull and dust forms.[25]
- The sanded floors will look considerably lighter than the rest of the room since you've sanded down past any existing finish.
- Buff the rest of the room with a buffer. Rent a buffer from a home improvement store so you can use it for the day. Start buffing near the far corner, and follow the grain of the wood floor across the room. As you move down each row, move the buffer side to side to get an even finish. Overlap each row by about so you don't miss any spots. The old finish will turn into a white powder so you can easily see where you've worked.[26]
- Use a maroon buffing pad since it has the correct grit to sand the rest of the floor.
- Keep the buffer on constantly, but stop every 5 minutes to vacuum the pad. Tilt the buffer up and use a vacuum extension to pull the dust off.
- Vacuum the floor. Put a new filter in your vacuum, or clean out the filter if it's reusable. Attach a felt-bottomed attachment to your vacuum to protect your floors from any damage. Work in the direction of the flooring strips, sweeping the attachment back and forth to suck up all the dust. Then work across the flooring strips to get any dust settled in between them.[27]
- If you don't have a felt-bottomed attachment for your vacuum, a brush attachment will also work.
- Dry-tack the floor. Wrap a large microfiber cloth around a dry mop or broom, and secure it in place. Push the cloth across the floor in the same direction as the flooring strips to get up the very last of the dust. Work in tight areas along the wall or in corners where dust may easily form.[28]
- Strain the new finish through an old watering can. Cover your shoes with booties and wear a respirator that has organic vapor canisters to protect your lungs. Pour the stain through a cone filter into a plastic watering can to strain out any contaminants. Pour the stain from the watering can into a small plastic container.[29]
- Apply a strip of stain around the edge of your room. Start at the corner farthest from the door so you don't get stuck when you're finished applying the stain. Using a paintbrush, apply a strip of stain next to the baseboards that's about thick. Get as far as you can around your room in 10 minutes before moving on.[30]
- This process is known as "cutting in."
- Working on the edges first makes it easier to work without missing any tight spots.
- Roll stain onto the rest of the floor. Pour a strip of stain onto the floor next to the strip you just painted on. Use a long-handled roller with a nap cover. Roll the finish out along the grain and then across it, overlapping each pass.[31]
- Pour as much stain as you can spread in 10 minutes or else your floor may look striped or uneven.
- Repeat the cutting in and rolling out procedure every 10 minutes. You'll need to work with wet stain to ensure that you don't end up with visible strips on the floor. Once you've rolled out finish for 10 minutes, go back to cutting in the edges for 10 minutes. Then roll out stain for 10 minutes, repeating the procedure until you've covered the entire floor.[32]
- Wait 3 hours to apply a second coat. If you're looking for a darker stain, you might need to apply more than one coat. Wait 3 hours in between applying each coat of stain so the coat before it has time to dry.[33]
- Wait a week to replace furniture. Once you've achieved the shade of stain you want, you'll need to let the floor dry completely. Wait a full week before you replace any furniture or accessories.[34]
- If you have engineered hardwoods - flooring that looks like hardwood but is not - you'll need to have a professional company come in and refinish your floors for you. If you're not sure what type of floors you have, take out a vent cover in your floor. You should be able to see how thick the flooring is. If it's thicker than , you have regular hardwoods.
- When you're replacing your baseboards and shoe moldings, wear soft flat shoes. They're less likely to scratch or scuff your newly refinished floors.
- You don't need to seal the floors after you've stained them if you were buffing out scratches instead of completely refinishing the floors.
[Edit]Warnings - Mineral spirits is flammable, so keep it away from open flames and heat sources.
- Be careful while using sanders and power tools since you could hurt yourself.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Vacuum
- Pry bar
- Claw hammer
- Plastic scraper or chisel
- Razor knife
- Plastic covers
- Random orbital sander
- Hand sander
- Detail sander
- 40-grit sandpaper
- 60-grit sandpaper
- 100-grit sandpaper
- Mop
- Mineral spirits
- Cleaning cloths
- Floor stain
- Lambswool stain applicator
- Paintbrush
- Polyurethane
- Buffer
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Make a Paper Dinosaur Posted: 25 Aug 2019 05:00 PM PDT With the right supplies and a bit of time, you can make your very own paper dinosaur that stands or moves. If you'd like a bigger craft project, you could even attempt a paper mache dinosaur or an origami dinosaur! Depending on the colors that you use, you can make your dinosaur look realistic or cartoonish. [Edit]Creating a Cartoon Puppet Dino - Glue a sheet of green construction paper to a piece of thin cardboard. This will make your dinosaur nice and sturdy. If you don't have any green construction paper, paint the cardboard with green acrylics or poster paint. Let the glue or paint dry before moving on.[1]
- The thin cardboard from cereal and snack boxes works great for this!
- If you don't have thin cardboard or construction paper, try green cardstock instead. You can also use poster paper, but you'll need to paint it.
- Draw and cut the body, head, tail, and leg shapes from the paper. Look up coloring book or cartoon pictures of long-necked dinosaurs, then break it down into separate body parts. Draw these separately with a pen or pencil, then cut them out. Here are the basic shapes you'll need:[2]
- A long stem with an oval shaped head, like a brontosaurus or apatosaurus
- A long, tapering tail, like a skinny triangle
- 2 rectangular legs
- A mound- or lump- shaped body, like a semicircle but with rounded bottom corners.
- Make spikes for the dino's back using paper and cardboard, if desired. Glue the paper to the cardboard first (or paint the cardboard). Let the paint or glue dry, then draw 4 to 5 triangular spikes. Cut them out, then set them aside.[3]
- Use a different color of paint or paper for this. Orange is a great choice, but a lighter or darker shade of green will also work.
- You can also make smaller rectangles for nails.
- Use a pen to poke a hole in the ends of each limb. Make the holes away from the center of each edge. A pen or pencil will work just fine for a cardstock dino, but if you used thin cardboard, use a nail to make the holes instead.[4]
- You'll need holes in the following areas: base of the neck, base of the tail, and the top of each leg.
- Don't use a hole punch. The hole will be too big and the brad will fall through.
- If you're a child, ask an adult to help you with this step, especially if you're using a nail.
- Poke 4 holes in the body so that you can secure the limbs. Make 2 holes along wider, flatter, bottom edge of the body. Poke another set of holes on the sides of the body for the tail and legs. As with the limbs, make the holes from the edges.[5]
- Don't poke the neck and tail holes too close to the top; make them closer to the bottom so that your dinosaur has a humped back.
- Don't place the legs too close together. Keep them closer to the bottom corners of the body.
- Use brads to secure the limbs behind the dinosaur's body. Stick a brad through the front of the neck hole on the body. Slide the neck piece onto the back of the prong, behind the body. Pry open the back of the brad, then press the prongs flat against the back of the dinosaur.[6]
- Repeat this step for the tail and both legs. Always add the limbs to the back of the body, not the front.
- Make sure that the limbs are facing up as well, otherwise your dinosaur won't match!
- Brad prongs can hurt if they get under your nail. Consider using a butter knife to pry them apart.
- Glue the spikes to the back of the dinosaur. Flip the dinosaur over so that you can see the back. Draw a line of glue along its back, then add the triangular spikes. Make sure that the flat bases are touching the dinosaur's back while the pointy tips are sticking out.[7]
- If you made nails for the dino, glue them to the bottom of each leg.
- White school glue and glue sticks will work just fine for this. Hot glue is not recommended because it's too bulky.
- Give the dinosaur a face. Here is where you can get a little creative. For a simple dinosaur, use a black marker to draw an eye and mouth. For a fancier dinosaur, use hot glue or white school glue to attach a googly eye to the dinosaur's face.[8]
- Give your dinosaur more character by adding eyebrows or eyelashes.
[Edit]Making a Long-Necked 3D Dino - Fold and cut a plain white paper plate in half with scissors. Fold the plate in half first, then use the crease as a cutting guide. For best results, use the kind that's made from cardstock and has a frilled edge, rather than the kind that's made from thick cardboard with a rim.[9]
- Set aside 1 of the paper plate halves; this will make the body.
- Cut a dino head, tail, and spikes from the other paper plate half. Draw the shapes on the second paper plate half (the other one will be the body), then cut them out. Make sure that the limbs are proportionate to the body. Don't worry about the feet; you will be using toilet paper rolls for that.[10]
- Make the spikes about tall and wide.
- Make the tail about wide at the base, and about 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the paper plate.
- If you don't know how to draw a dinosaur head, tail, or spikes, look at pictures of cartoon dinosaurs online or in coloring books.
- Use the brim to make the neck, if desired. Cut it off first so that you get a C-shape, then cut it in half. Use 1 of these halves to make the neck.
- Glue the cut shapes to the other paper plate half. The straight edge of the plate is the bottom of the dinosaur, while the curved side is the back. Glue the tail to 1 end and the neck and/or head to the other. If you made spikes, glue them down the dinosaur's back.[11]
- Use scissors to cut an empty toilet paper roll into thirds. Keep 2 of the segments and discard the third. This will give you rings that are a little over tall. If you don't have any empty toilet paper rolls, you can use an empty paper towel roll instead.[12]
- If you're using an empty paper towel roll, cut 2 segments from it.
- Cut a set of slits into the top of each toilet paper ring. You will be sliding the dinosaur's body into these slits, so make sure that they are directly across from each other. The easiest way to do this would be to squish the rings in half, then cut a long slit into each one.[13]
- Slide the dinosaur into the slits. Take the first roll, and turn it so that 1 slit is facing the dinosaur's head and the other is facing its tail. Slide the bottom edge of the dinosaur's body into the slit. Repeat this process for the other leg.[14]
- Slide the legs apart until they are on opposite sides of the plate.
- Paint the dinosaur, then let it dry. Acrylic craft paints will work great for this, but you can also use poster paint too! Use the same colors and patterns for both the front and back. How long it will take for the paint to dry depends on what you are using. Expect to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.[15]
- You can take the dinosaur's body off of its feet in order to paint it. Do the front first, let it dry, then do the back.
- Don't forget to paint the eyes and mouth! Alternatively, you can glue on some googly eyes after the paint has dried.
[Edit]Building a Papier-Mâché Dino - Blow up a balloon, tear newspaper into strips, and make a papier-mâché paste. Blow up a balloon to your desired size. Next, tear some newspaper into narrow strips, about . Lastly, prepare your preferred papier-mâché glue or paste.[16]
- The most popular papier-mâché paste is just 1 part water and 1 part PVA glue (white school glue).
- Start with just 1 or 2 sheets of newspaper; you can always make more strips.
- Don't cut the strips, or the edges will be too sharp and create creases. Tearing them will give you a smoother finish.
- Dip the strips into the paste, then apply them to the balloon. Run each strip of of newspaper between your fingers after dipping it in the paste; this will remove any excess glue. Make sure that the strips are all going in the same direction as you apply them.[17]
- Overlap the strips a little, such as by .
- Keep the balloon in a cup or bowl so that it doesn't roll around. You may have to let 1 side of the balloon dry first before doing the other.
- Leave a coin-sized space at one end of the balloon exposed so that you can pop the balloon later.
- Apply 2 more layers of papier-mâché. You probably don't need to use the glue for the second layer; the wet strips already adhered to the balloon should be enough for the new ones to stick to. If the balloon starts to get too soggy, however, let it dry a bit, then continue working.
- Consider using white tissue paper for as a fourth and final layer. This will give you a smoother base and help the paint show up better.
- If you choose to use tissue paper, then make sure that you tear it into strips as well.
- Let the strips dry overnight, then pop and remove the balloon. You may have to wait even longer than that, depending on how dry or humid it is in your home. In fact, it would be a good idea to poke your finger under the papier-mâché; if it feels wet, give it a little more time.[18]
- This completes your dinosaur's body.
- Don't worry about the hole left by the balloon. You'll end up covering it with the dinosaur's head or tail.
- Tape paper towel roll segments to the balloon for legs. Turn the papier-mâché balloon on its side, then use masking tape to secure the legs to the bottom.[19]
- Don't use clear tape; it won't stick to the papier-mâché.
- You can also just cut 2 empty toilet paper rolls in half and use those instead.
- Use cardboard, paper towel tubes, and foil to make the other limbs. Scrunch up aluminum foil into a ball to make a head, and then use aluminum foil shaped into a cone for the tail. The size and shape for each depends on what type of dinosaur that you're making, so look at some reference pictures. Here are some more ideas to get you started:[20]
- Triceratops: cut a round, scalloped shape out of cardboard for the fan. Use foil to make the horns.
- Stegosaurus: cut triangles out of cardboard for the fins.
- Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: use a paper towel tube to make the neck.
- Tape the pieces to the body with masking tape. Take 1 of your pieces, and hold it against the balloon where you want it to go. Secure it with strips of masking tape until the seam is completely hidden. Again, don't use clear tape, because it won't hold.
- Triceratops: tape the fan to the balloon first, then add the head (you may have to use hot glue to secure it). Finish by sticking the horns to the head.
- Stegosaurus: tape or hot glue the head to 1 side of the body and the tail to the other. Use strips of tape to add the fins down the back and tail.
- Apatosaurus/brontosaurus: tape the head to the long neck first, then tape the head to the body. Add the tail to the other side of the body.
- Cover the pieces and the seams with more papier-mâché. Start by applying strips of papier-mâché to the seams. After that, cover the shapes themselves. If the pieces feel unstable, add more papier-mâché to the seams.[21]
- You may have to tear more strips of newspaper and prepare more papier-mâché paste for this.
- Consider making some smaller strips for sharp curves and tight corners.
- If the hole from when you removed the balloon is still visible, cover it up with more papier-mâché.
- Wait for everything to dry. How long it will take for your project to dry really depends on what the weather is like. Papier-mâché will dry a lot faster on a hot, dry, sunny day than on a cold, wet, day. Be patient![22]
- Paint the dinosaur as desired, then let the paint dry. Acrylic craft paint will work just fine for this, but you can use poster paint too. You can use realistic colors for your dinosaur, like gray, brown, and green, or you can use fantasy colors, like pink, purple, and blue.[23]
- For a nicer finish, paint the dinosaur white first, then let the paint dry. This will give you a clean "canvas" to work on.
- Don't forget to add eyes and a mouth. You can paint the eyes, or glue googly eyes on instead.
- How long it will take for the paint to dry will depend on what type of paint you're using. Plan to wait about 15 to 20 minutes, however.
- Your dinosaur doesn't have to look realistic at all. You can even make it pink and blue!
- Look up pictures of cartoon dinosaurs. They have simpler shapes, which are easier to copy to your paper.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Creating a Cartoon Puppet Dino - Green construction paper
- Orange construction paper
- Glue stick
- Thin cardboard
- 4 brads
- Pen or nail
- Scissors
- White school glue (optional)
- Googly eye (optional)
[Edit]Making a Long-Necked 3D Dino - White paper plate
- Empty toilet paper roll
- Scissors
- Green acrylic paint or poster paint
- Glue stick or white school glue
[Edit]Building a Papier-Mâché Dino - White school glue
- Newspaper
- Balloon
- Cardboard
- Aluminum foil
- Empty toilet paper rolls
- Masking tape
- Acrylic paint or poster paint
- Scissors
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
How to Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 09:00 AM PDT Dating can be a tricky business for anyone. Whether you're shy and inexperienced or seasoned and outgoing, there are plenty of ways a pickup line or a first date can fall flat. Don't let the possibility of failure frighten you away, though. If you think carefully about what you're looking for, choose a way to meet people that feels comfortable, and bring your best self to the first date and beyond, dating can be a lot less scary and a lot more fun. Even if you don't end up meeting the love of your life, you'll be glad you gave it a shot. [Edit]Finding a Potential Date - Decide if you're looking for a serious relationship or a casual fling. What are you looking for in a potential partner? Do you want a lifetime commitment, or do you want to live completely in the moment? Overall, it's important to know where you stand so that you can figure out if your date is on the same page. That way, both parties will be less likely to be hurt by miscommunication or misunderstanding.[1]
- If you just ended a serious relationship – or don't have enough time to invest in a full-on romantic commitment – casual dating may be the best choice for you.[2] In these cases, you should be less concerned about whether a potential partner meets all your expectations, and more focused on whether you have chemistry and fun.
- If you're looking for a serious relationship, you'll want to spend more time confirming that you have values in common, such as your spirituality and long-term goals.
- Try apps or online dating if you're struggling to find romance within your social circle. Many people rely on websites like Match or apps like Tinder, Hinge, or Bumble to meet romantic prospects. If you're having a hard time finding potential dates among people you know or encounter often, apps like these can connect you to people you might not otherwise meet.
- Pick the platform that suits you best if you opt for digital dating. If you choose to create a profile on a website or an app, it's important to pick one with a user base that generally aligns with your desires and intentions. It's possible to meet a great partner on any platform, but many of them serve a certain demographic with specific expectations and desires.[3]
- Many people on Tinder are looking for a deeper commitment than casual sex, but significant portions of their user base – specifically, younger males – use it primarily for excitement, validation, and hookup opportunities.[4] If you're looking for a serious relationship, it may not be the best option for you.
- If you're gay, bisexual, trans, or queer, try Grindr. Her is also a good option for lesbian, bisexual, and queer people.
- Older, more established websites like Match are a better fit for people who are looking for a committed relationship. Profiles are more extensive and informative than on other websites and apps.
- Find a date at a bar or a club if you enjoy hitting the town. If you feel comfortable and confident going out, you could meet a potential date at a busy bar or club. Keep in mind that many of these relationships end up being short-term or sexual, especially if you're looking for more commitment.[5]
- Ask a friend to set you up if you're shy, but want to meet in person. If the idea of picking somebody up at a club strikes fear into your heart, but dating apps aren't your thing, ask a friend to set you up with someone they think might be good for you. Your friends know you well, so it's likely they'll introduce you to someone you're compatible with.
- Try asking your friend something like this: "Hey, I've been thinking about dating, but I'm not sure where to start. Do you know anyone special that you might introduce me to?"[6]
- Meet like-minded dates through activities and events. You can meet potential dates by going to concerts by your favorite musicians, joining a sports team, or taking a new exercise class at the gym. If you meet someone while doing a particular activity, you're guaranteed to have common interests – and something to do on potential future dates![7]
- Another upside of meeting dates at activities and events: even if you don't connect with anyone, you'll still have a fun morning, afternoon, or evening to yourself. Not meeting the person of your dreams stings a little less when you've had a great workout or seen your favorite band.
[Edit]Approaching and Talking to Your Potential Date - Indicate interest and project confidence during social situations. If you go to a sports game, a concert, or a bar in hopes of meeting someone in person, be bold. If approaching someone you're interested in isn't really your style, you can still make yourself look approachable and inviting.[8]
- If you see someone you're interested in, but you can't come up with a pickup line or a conversation starter, buy a drink for them and ask the bartender to tell them it's from you. It's hard to go wrong with a simple, kind gesture.[9]
- Make eye contact, smile, and raise your eyebrows – you just might make a connection from across the room.
- Make engaging small talk, whether you meet in person or online. A lot of people who swear they hate dating probably only hate small talk. However, if you establish common ground through casual chatting, you'll be able to discuss more serious topics, and the overall conversation will flow a lot more smoothly.[10]
- Ask broad, open-ended questions. Something like "So what got you interested in rock-climbing?" is a lot better than "Are you interested in rock-climbing?"
- If you meet in person, talk about where you are and what you're doing there. If you happen to meet someone playing beach volleyball, say something like: "Wow, you're really good. I'll know where to come in the future if I want my butt kicked. Do you play here often?"
- Relate to what the other person said. If they gripe about getting to work and you, too, have a difficult commute, express your shared frustration and tell them why you hate driving (or taking the bus or train).
- Don't take yourself too seriously. Nervous mistakes are simply a part of dating.[11] You might trip over your words and say something you think is utterly stupid, or make an embarrassing typo while messaging on a dating app. Instead of taking yourself too seriously and letting the awkward moment get to you, try making a joke at your own expense. Luckily, some people think it's cute if their date is a little nervous.
- Be selective – but also reasonable – when pursuing potential dates. Don't go out with anyone who shows mild interest in you. People who are more discriminating tend to be seen as more desirable, and having standards shows that you value yourself and your time. [12] On the other hand, if you keep holding out for the perfect person, you might miss out on a great connection.
- If you're in a room full of people with similar interests, you should be able to pick out one or two people who you'd like to go on a date with. Make it a point to not leave an event without showing interest, making a connection, or trading phone numbers with a few people.
- While swiping on an app like Tinder, take time to consider each potential match carefully, rather than turning them down based on an immediate gut reaction. Remember that there's a real person behind that profile, and that you might make a great connection with them even if you're not blown away by their photos. Treat people the way you would wish to be treated, online and off.[13]
- Be respectful, even if you're not interested. If you start to suspect the person you're talking to might not be right for you, they still might want to go out with you. If they ask you out and you'd rather not go, avoid making excuses like "I'm busy" or "I'm not ready to date right now."[14] These small lies can be more hurtful and insulting than just respectfully declining.
- Smile, say "No thanks, but I appreciate the offer", and change the subject to ease any discomfort.
- Ask the person on a date that you think they would genuinely enjoy. If you think your first interaction has gone well, ask the person out. By this time, you should have a good idea of what your potential date is interested in, or what they like to do for fun. Invite them to do something you think you would both enjoy. [15]
- If your date is lukewarm about trying new restaurants or bars, suggest a casual activity that's relevant to what you've talked about with the other person instead of a dinner date. For instance, if they mentioned that they like a certain style of music, invite them to a concert you think they would enjoy.
- Have a good idea of what you're going to say to the person so you don't stumble over your words, but don't memorize a statement ahead of time – you don't want to sound scripted.[16]
- Be polite and graceful if they say no. Even if you feel hurt or disappointed, try not to take their answer personally. Thank them for being honest with you and tell them you enjoyed meeting them.
[Edit]Having a Great First Date - Take care of your appearance, especially on date night. Long-term affection and connection has less to with looks and grooming, but how you look can have a large bearing on the initial attraction you feel for another person. Making a good first impression can go a long way.
- Even if you don't have gleaming teeth, a perfect body, or a precisely symmetrical face, practicing good self-care is a simple but incredibly effective way to make yourself more attractive to other people. Being clean and well-groomed, dressing nicely, and having good posture can enhance your attractiveness significantly.[17]
- After you get spruced up, don't forget to be yourself. People do not like superficial dressing, speech or actions. Even if you're dating casually, you want your date to like you for who you really are.[18]
- Choose an exciting date activity. Whether it's a roller-coaster ride, a concert, or a hockey game, a little excitement can turn a good first date into a great one. If the conversation sputters out – which is natural – you'll have a healthy distraction while you come up with a new topic or question. Overall, your date will likely more memorable and enjoyable.
- During fun, high-energy dates, chemistry is in your favor. When you engage in an exciting activity while on a date, your brain releases dopamine and norepinephrine, which are hormones associated with pleasure, trust, and affection.[19] If your date experiences those feelings and associates them with you, it can't hurt your chances.
- Be positive when it's time for your date. If you have had a bad day, put it behind you and greet your date with enthusiasm and a big smile. Don't show up for your date complaining about the traffic, your boss, or your job. If you must whine, whine a little during dinner, then cut it short with a remark like: "Glad I'm here with you now!"
- Conduct yourself politely and respectfully. Practicing good manners is essential to having a successful and fun date, whether it's your first or your 127th. Be considerate and charming while giving your date you full attention.[20]
- Turn off your phone – the only reason you should be checking or answering your phone is if you're a doctor! Concentrate on your date and listen to them carefully.
- Neither of you should feel obligated to pay for everything. It's generally considered polite to split meals, or switch off paying for dates. For example, one person might pay for a movie on Friday, and the other might pay for bowling on Saturday.
- Avoid oversharing and dominating the conversation. Don't exaggerate or boast about your credentials and successes, or divulge too much personal information. If you share what you're passionate about, be sure to ask them what they're into as well, and listen carefully while they explain.[21]
- Don't talk about past relationships – or other emotionally difficult topics – from the get-go. It's important to respect your date's boundaries, and you may project the impression that you are unable to let go of the past. Asking them about their own romantic history is also unadvisable. It's a first date – you don't need to bare your soul or tell your life story.
- Inject humor into your conversation to reduce tension and lighten the mood. Maybe you have an inside joke related to how you first met, or a funny story you'd like to tell. Whatever you say, it's important to avoid taking yourself too seriously – it will allow both you and your date to be more present, and to enjoy each other's company more fully.[22]
- Set a reasonable time limit for your date. Sometimes, when a date is going really well, your impulse is to keep it going at whatever cost. However, it's better not to overwhelm your date by taking them on an hours-long excursion. It takes time to get to know someone – don't expect it to occur in the space of a first date.
- If you ask enough questions and pay careful attention to your date, you shouldn't run out of things to talk about. However, a shorter date will make this less likely to happen. Longer dates are more appropriate for when you've gotten to know the person well, and are comfortable making conversation with them.
- Have realistic expectations when the date comes to an end. Even if you're head-over-heels, try to understand that the other person may need to take things slower. It doesn't mean they don't like you, or that they're not willing to consider dating you. Respect your date's romantic pace, and try not to jump to negative conclusions if it doesn't match yours.[23]
- A kiss is acceptable on the first date, but make sure to ask if the other person is comfortable with it first. ("Can I kiss you" is simple and effective.) If you like the person, be polite but confident. If you don't kiss them by the third date, they may start to ask questions about you. ("Do they like me?" "What's their deal?" etc.)
- Never pressure the other person with regards to sex, or expect it to happen within a certain time frame. Allow it to occur naturally. You may have to wait several dates for it to even be a possibility.
[Edit]Building on the First Date and Beyond - Be patient and give them plenty of space. After your first date, continue with your other activities, and make it clear that you have a life beyond dating (because you do!). The idea is to overcome any feeling that you "need" to call them, or you "need" to see them again, or you "need" this to work out.[24]
- Don't plan another date too quickly. Your partner (and you) need time to assess your feelings about the date, and whether you want to get together again. Within a week of your first date – but not right away – call or text them to ask them how they'd feel about going on another date.
- Never call, e-mail or text message multiple times a day. If you do reach out, wait for them reply.
- Don't be afraid to communicate affection, but be careful not to overdo it. Saying something like "I really like you; you're a great person" can mean a lot to your date. Saying the other "L"-word — "I love you" — is probably not recommended during the early stages of dating, even if that's the way you feel. It could come across as impulsive and intimidating, and your feelings might change, no matter how strongly you feel about the person.[25]
- Be honest about your feelings and intentions. If, after the first date, you don't feel like you can commit to the person, let them know right away so you don't give them false hope.[26]
- Only say that you want to be friends if you mean it, and if you actually want to spend time with this person on a regular basis. If you want to continue to be in each other's lives, honesty will remain a critical ingredient to a healthy relationship!
- Try not to take rejection personally if it happens. If you try dating, rejection is inevitable, but it's not a reflection on whether or not you're interesting or fun. If your date tells you they're not interested in being involved with you – or simply stops responding to your texts – it shouldn't stop you from continuing to meet new people.[27]
- If you suspect that rejection might be difficult for you, avoid apps like Tinder that involve evaluating people based on superficial criteria. Being turned down based on a quick glance and a reflexive reaction can be detrimental to one's self-esteem.[28]
- If your date "ghosts" you, it's more of a reflection of their lack of consideration than anything you might have done wrong. Move on – you deserve better than that!
[Edit]Warnings - When you've decided that you're going on a date, it's important to let a close friend or family member know where you've gone and what your plans are, for your own personal safety.
- Be safe, be careful, and listen to your intuition. If you get a bad feeling during the date, politely end it without feigning excuses. Being firm, courteous, and honest is usually the best way to make an emergency exit.
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