| How to Use a Torque Wrench Posted: 02 Sep 2019 01:00 AM PDT A torque wrench is a special tool designed to accurately tighten nuts and bolts to specific levels. It is almost universally used to work on cars and bikes, and it can only be used to tighten something. Torque wrenches are adjusted by hand, so you don't need any other tools to operate one. To use a torque wrench, adjust the handle and set it to a specific level of torque. Use the tightener on the end of the handle to lock it in place. Then, fit it over the socket, nut, or bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it. When you're done, turn the settings on the handle back to 0 and store it somewhere safe. Get your torque wrench calibrated at least once a year to ensure that the hash marks remain accurate. [Edit]Adjusting the Torque Wrench - Loosen the tightener at the end of the wrench's handle. Look at the end of your wrench's handle to find the tightener that locks the settings in place. It is usually a plastic or metal cap that is stuck into the end of your wrench. Often, it is a different color than the rest of your wrench as well. Twist it counterclockwise by hand to loosen the piece so that you can change the wrench's settings.[1]
- You don't need to take it off of your wrench, just loosen it until you don't feel a ton of resistance.
- Find and identify the torque measurements on your wrench. Inspect the area near your handle to find the hash marks for the torque setting. There will be 1 set of larger numbers on the body of the wrench and 1 set of smaller numbers on the handle. The smaller numbers are the smaller digits, while the larger numbers are the larger units.[2]
- Torque is measured in foot-pounds or meter-kilograms (ft-lb or m-kg). Your torque wrench will list 2 sets of numbers on the wrench's hash marks. The lower number is the measurement in foot-pounds. The larger number is the measurement in meter-kilograms.
- The vertical location of the edge of the handle determines the baseline while the rotation of the handle determines the smaller digits. There is a center line on the wrench to show where the handle is set.
- For example, if the edge of the handle is on the hash mark for 100, and the smaller number on the handle itself is turned to 5, the torque setting for the wrench is 105 ft-lb (1397 m-kg).
- Turn the dial to raise or lower the torque setting on the wrench. With the tightener loosened, brace the body of the wrench with your nondominant hand. Turn the handle clockwise to raise it, or counterclockwise to lower it. Once you reach the desired hash mark, stop turning the handle.[3]
- If you need to reach a specific number, raise the handle to the hash mark that is within 5 ft-lb (200 m-kg) of your number. So if you know you need to reach 140 ft-lb (1860 m-kg), raise the handle to the hash mark between 135-145 ft-lb (1795-1928 m-kg).
- Some torque wrench handles are slide up and down instead of twisting into place.
- Twist the dial on the handle to make minor adjustments. Once you're close to the desired number, turn your attention from the height of the handle to the dial itself. Follow the readings as you turn the handle slowly. As you turn clockwise, the number goes up. As you turn counterclockwise, the number goes down.[4]
- There are a few negative numbers after 0 so that you can move down a little as well.
- On some wrenches, the dial moves independently of the handle and you can twist it by turning the dial, not the handle.
- Add the smaller digit on the handle to the number on the larger hash mark to determine total torque. Once you've adjusted the handle's height and twisted the dial, calculate your total torque to ensure that it's accurately adjusted by adding the numbers together. Take the hash mark on your handle and add the number marked on the dial to get your torque. So if the dial reads 4, and the handle reads 50, your total torque is 54 ft-lb (718 m-kg).[5]
- You add the negative numbers as well. For example, if your hash mark is 120 and the dial is -2, you add 120 to -2 to get 118 ft-lb (1569 m-kg).
- Screw the tightener back into the end of the wrench by hand to lock it. To lock a torque setting into the wrench, flip it back over to the handle. Brace the wrench in your nondominant hand to keep it still. Twist the tightener clockwise by hand until it won't move any more. This will lock the handle in place.[6]
- Once you lock the tightener, you cannot adjust your torque setting.
[Edit]Tightening Nuts and Bolts - Put your socket on the head of your wrench. To use your torque wrench, start by sliding a socket that matches your nut or bolt into the head of your torque wrench. If you have an extender or adaptor that you're using, you can slide that into the opening at the head instead.[7]
- Torque wrenches come in different sizes, but the sockets are almost always interchangeable. Torque wrenches are expensive, so they rarely come in a single size.
- Turn the nut or bolt by hand until it catches the threading on the screw. Take the nut or bolt that you're going to tighten and place it over the threading for the screw or opening on your vehicle by hand. Turn the vehicle's nut or bolt clockwise with your fingers until the threading catches the threading on the screw. Turn the nut or bolt until it won't turn by hand anymore.[8]
- Fit the socket on top of the nut or bolt that you're tightening. With the nut or bolt set on the threading, hold the handle of the torque wrench in your nondominant hand. Use your dominant hand to guide the socket, adaptor, or extender on to the nut or bolt. Slide the wrench over the nut or bolt until the 2 pieces are flush.[9]
- Turn the handle clockwise to tighten the nut or bolt. Rotate the handle clockwise to begin tightening the nut or bolt. Almost all torque wrenches have automatic return functions so you don't need to reposition them on the nut or bolt. For this type of wrench, simply move it counterclockwise to reset it. If you have a manual wrench, reposition it on the nut or bolt to continue torquing it down.[10]
- If you hear a clicking or switching noise when you return the handle counterclockwise, you have an automatically-returning torque wrench.
- Stop turning the wrench when it starts clicking or stops moving. If your automatic wrench clicks when you're returning it, keep tightening the nut or bolt. If it starts clicking when you turn it clockwise though, stop tightening the nut or bolt. The clicking noise while tightening indicates that you have reached your desired torque level. On a manual wrench, stop turning it when you feel the wrench resisting.[11]
- So if you have the handle adjusted to 100 ft-lb (1330 m-kg) of torque, the bolt is tightened to that level the moment it starts clicking when you try to tighten it.
- Manual wrenches will simply stop moving after the nut or bolt has been turned to the intended level of torque.
[Edit]Maintaining Your Wrench - Dial the wrench back to zero when you're done using it. When you're done using the wrench, turn both dial settings on the handle back to 0. Leaving the dial turned to a torque setting higher than 0 can throw the calibration off over time.[12]
- Turning the wrench to negative numbers is equally as bad for your wrench.
- Clean dirty or rusty nuts or bolts before loosening them. One of the easiest ways to damage your wrench is to allow rust and grime buildup inside your sockets. This makes it harder for your torque wrench to get an adequate grip on the socket and can cause a lot of problems over time. Clean each bolt or nut that you plan on tightening with a towel or rag before attaching your wrench.[13]
- Torque wrenches aren't meant to be lubricated. Get any grease or lubricant off of your bolt or nut by using a degreaser before attaching a socket.
- Get your wrench calibrated at least once a year. Unless you have years of experience working on cars, it's best to have a mechanic or torque wrench specialist calibrate your torque wrench for you. When using your torque wrench, a discrepancy will naturally develop between the measurements on your handle and the actual torque of the wrench. Fix this problem and prevent dangerous scenarios by getting your wrench calibrated once a year.[14]
- Calibration usually costs between $25-75 USD.
- You cannot loosen nuts or bolts with a torque wrench. If you're disassembling something, this isn't the right tool for the job.
- Torque wrenches are simple tools, but they can be kind of expensive. The higher-end your torque wrench is, the more accurate the calibration will usually be.
[Edit]Warnings - Dropping your wrench can throw the calibration off. Carry it with both hands when you're walking around the garage to ensure that you don't drop it.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Keep Food Fresh on a Road Trip Posted: 01 Sep 2019 05:00 PM PDT When you're going on a road trip, the last thing you want is to run out of food because it went bad. That's why it's important to know how to prepare food properly for your road trip. Then, you need to pack your cooler the right way to keep your food fresh as long as possible. Make sure to plan out your meals so that you bring the correct amount of food, use a high-quality cooler, and use a separate cooler for beverages to preserve your perishables for the duration of your trip. [Edit]Preparing the Day Before - Pick foods that are easy-to-prepare and will last for your road trip. Things like deli meats, cheeses, pre-cooked hot dogs or sausages, fruits and vegetables, potato salad or pasta salad, and other premade and precooked items are good choices. Plan out easy-to-make breakfast, lunch, and dinner meals for each day of your trip and bring the necessary ingredients.[1]
- Limit the amount of raw meats and other highly-perishable items to just what you plan on making in the first 1-2 days, since these foods will go bad the fastest.
- Things like sandwiches and wraps are easy to throw together on the road, and their ingredients will last a long time in your cooler.
- Prepare and portion out your food to get it ready to pack in your cooler. Chop things like fruits and vegetables so they are ready-to-eat and take up less space. Take things like raw meat out of its store packaging and separate it into portions to repackage in smaller containers or bags.[2] thick and made of molded plastic. It's also best to use 2 coolers, 1 for food and 1 for drinks.}}
- You can pre-make things like pasta salad, potato salad, baked beans, and other side dishes. You can also precook some chicken or other meat to use for sandwiches or wraps on the first day or two.
- If you are bringing condiments, put smaller amounts of them into smaller containers rather than bringing the whole bottle or other container.
- Put the prepared food into sealable containers and bags. Put food in plastic bags with a zip top or sealable tupperware containers. This will keep food from getting wet or leaking and contaminating other foods in the cooler.[3]
- Try to be as space-conscious as possible and pack things in bags and containers just big enough to hold them. This will save space and let you pack foods more tightly in your cooler to keep them colder.
- Don't put wet raw foods like fruits and vegetables in sealed packaging or they won't stay fresh. Either don't wash them before packing them, or let them air dry completely before you pack them up.
- Freeze all perishable food you won't eat on the first day to keep it fresh longer. Put foods that will go bad quickly, especially raw meat, in the freezer the day before your trip and let them freeze overnight. Leave just enough food unfrozen for the first day of meals of your road trip.[4]
- You can also freeze things like fruits and vegetables that you won't eat right away to keep them fresh longer.
- It's ok to leave things like sealed deli meats and dairy products in the fridge instead of the freezer, as these items won't go bad as quickly.
- Refrigerate all the perishable food items that you don't freeze. Put all the rest of your food that could go bad in the fridge the day before you travel to increase their shelf life. This includes items that you would normally put in the fridge, such as dairy products, and items you might typically leave out, life fruits and vegetables.[5]
- You don't need to do this for non-perishable food items, like nuts or other snack-type items that won't go bad.
- Freeze enough water bottles to line the bottom of your cooler. Check how many water bottles fit in the bottom of your cooler, then freeze at least this many. These will act as ice blocks to keep your food fresh in your cooler, and then you can drink them later on.[6]
- You can do this with several personal-sized water bottles or fill a couple of larger bottles with water and freeze them to make bigger ice blocks. For example, 2-liter soda bottles or gallon milk jugs work well as ice blocks for large coolers.
- If you don't have or don't want to use water bottles, you can also use commercial ice packs or freeze some water in ziploc bags to make ice blocks.
- Fill your cooler with tap water and 1-2 bags of ice the night before to pre-chill it. Bring your cooler inside from wherever you store it to a cool room and dump 1-2 bags of ice into it. Fill it up the rest of the way with tap water, close it, and let it sit overnight.[7]
- This will ensure your cooler is already chilled when you pack food into it so that the food stays colder longer.
- Make sure to dump out the ice and water before you pack your cooler for the road trip.
[Edit]Packing Your Cooler Correctly - Line the bottom of your cooler with frozen water bottles. Take the water bottles you pre-froze out from your freezer and put them directly into your cooler. This will form the base layer of ice that will keep your food cold and fresh.[8]
- You want to pack everything into your cooler directly from your fridge and freezer at the last moment before you leave and in the shortest amount of time possible. The less contact the food has with warm air, the longer it will last.
- Put frozen food items on top of the frozen water bottles. These are the items that you will eat last and are the least delicate, so put them at the very bottom. They will also stay frozen longer if they are in direct contact with the ice blocks.[9]
- Double check to make sure that all meat and other frozen items are well-sealed as you pack them into the cooler. You don't want any raw meat juices leaking into your cooler as they thaw out.
- Make sure to place everything right-side-up as you pack to be extra-sure that nothing accidentally opens or leaks in the cooler.
- Add a layer of ice cubes between each layer of food items. Dump a layer of ice cubes from a bag of ice on top of the frozen food items before you pack the next layer. Do this between each layer that you pack to keep your food colder for longer.[10]
- During your road trip, don't dump out any melted ice unless you are going to replace it with fresh ice. Even the melted ice water will help keep your food cold and fresh for longer.
- Put non-delicate refrigerated items in the middle of the cooler. Add all the items that you refrigerated that aren't in danger of being crushed for the next layer. This includes things like condiments, fruit in tupperware, deli meats, cheese, and thawed meat that you plan to eat that day.[11]
- Remember to top this layer off with another layer of ice cubes before you add the top layer of food.
- Place delicate items at the very top so they don't get crushed. Put items that might get crushed, such as eggs and bagged vegetables, at the very top so nothing heavy will be on them. Cover them with a final light layer of ice cubes.[12]
- The fuller your cooler is, the longer things will stay cold and fresh. If you have lots of empty spaces, then fill them up with ice cubes or use frozen or chilled beverages to fill in the gaps.
- You can also pack things that you want to be able to access easily, such as the first day's lunch, at the top.
- Use a separate cooler for beverages to keep your food cooler closed more. Pack beverages in a separate cooler so you don't have to open and close your food cooler to access them. The more your cooler's lid is open, the faster the ice will melt and your food will start to warm up.[13]
- If you absolutely can't use a second cooler, then pack a layer of beverages between the frozen food items and the next layer of food items, and leave a few beverages packed around the top of the cooler so you can pull them out quickly.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Choose Running Shoes for Beginners Posted: 01 Sep 2019 09:00 AM PDT If you haven't gone for a run since gym class, finding the right shoes for running can seem impossible. There are dozens of major brands and thousands of styles to choose from, and without the right information it can be hard to know what a good choice is. Many running stores have salespeople who are happy to help you find a great shoe, but you will soon be able to find the perfect pair on your own, online or in-store, and know what questions to consider if you get stuck. [Edit]Choosing a Type of Running Shoe - Opt for a pair of road shoes if you plan to run mainly on pavement. Choosing a shoe that matches the location you will be running in most often will make it easier on your feet. Road shoes are great for asphalt, tracks, treadmills, and busy trails without many obstacles.[1]
- In many ways, road shoes are the most well-rounded type of running shoe.
- If you go to a specialty store, most of the shoes a sales representative will show you are road shoes. They are a great choice for beginning runners.
- Get a pair of trail shoes if you will spend most runs off-road. Trail shoes are sturdier and better grip on slippery, uneven terrain. These shoes are less transferable to the road than road shoes are to trails, as the size of the rubber outsoles can make it difficult to run on pavement.[2]
- Be realistic about where you will be running. If you would love to run on beautiful trails but the closest ones are a long drive away, it may be better to begin with a pair of road shoes.
- Grab some road racing shoes if you are serious about races. These shoes are not designed for regular use. Instead, they are lightweight and breathable to maximize performance during races on asphalt. Unless you are already well-prepared for races, it may be best to stick with road or trail shoes.[3]
- If you are going to be competing in a race, don't feel bad if you don't have a separate pair of racing shoes. Many 5k, 10k, and half marathon runners compete in the same shoes the train in.
- Steer clear of spiked shoes unless you are jumping into races. These shoes are designed for racers on tracks and cross country courses. Wearing them on asphalt can damage both the pavement and the shoe, and they offer very little support. You should avoid them until you are participating in these kinds of races.[4]
- Most runners who compete in track or cross country races have a pair of trainers in addition to spiked racing shoes.
[Edit]Selecting Shoe Features - Try shoes with stability features for an arch that is not high or low. Stability features include a support structure called a medial post for your arch in addition to a mild amount of cushioning for your midsole region. These features gently brace the foot all around, as well as helping to absorb the shock of running.[5]
- Stability features are designed to lessen the foot's ability to turn in when you run, which can cause strain and leg pain.
- Choose shoes with neutral features if you have particularly high arches. Neutral features will give you the maximum amount of mid-sole cushioning to keep your legs from taking the amount of shock absorbed when you hit the ground with just your toes and heels.[6]
- Shoes that are considered neutral often do not have a medial post, as the high arch means the feet are more likely to turn outward toward the outside edge than turn in.
- Pick shoes with motion control features if you have low or flat arches. This style of shoe is especially designed to provide a great deal of support on the arch and keep your feet secure when you run, because having low arches can cause your feet turn in when you run.[7]
- Motion control features include a sturdy medial post that extends almost the full length of your feet to prevent your feet from turning in or out as a result of low arches.
- Select a shoe with breathable fabric if you live somewhere hot. Some shoes trap heat in with your feet and can lead to sweating, smelly shoes, and worst of all, foot fungus. With a breathable fabric, you can avoid all that.[8]
- The socks you wear while running also have a big impact on your feet's ability to get airflow, so this feature is not necessary unless your climate makes it necessary.
- Go with waterproof shoes if you plan to run in the rain or cross streams. Your shoes will most likely not be breathable, but they will keep your feet dry. If you live somewhere that rains most of the year, getting waterproof shoes will ensure that your feet don't get soaked every time you run through a puddle.[9]
- Pick a shoe with a wide toe box if you prefer to have breathing room. Choosing a shoe with a wide toe box allows you to have the feeling of breathable toes without getting a shoe that is too wide for your feet.[10]
- Trying out this feature is important for those who have wide feet when it comes to street shoes but aren't sure about running shoes.
[Edit]Getting the Right Fit - Use a measuring device to determine the size and width of your feet. Many people do not know their exact shoe size, or even if they do, purchase shoes that are too big or too small. Running shoes need to have a perfect fit, and choosing a pair begins with measuring your feet.[11]
- You can find a measuring device in most shoe stores, but you can also find the length and width of your feet at home using a pen and paper.
- Your feet may be slightly different sizes. This is relatively common, and you should wear the size of shoe that fits your larger foot if it is the case.[12]
- Try on each pair of shoes if you are purchasing in-store. This may seem obvious, but the only way to know whether a shoe fits is to put it on your foot. If you are buying online, read reviews to see how other people describe the fit and feel of the shoe. [13]
- You can always call a local store to see if they have a shoe in stock if you find a pair you like online and want to try it on.
- Online shoppers also have the option to order a pair and try them on before deciding whether or not to send them back.
- Measure the distance between your big toe and the tip of the shoe. The distance should be between to , which happens to be just about the width of your thumb. This distance is important for making sure the shoes are exactly the right size.[14]
- Different companies have different size standards, so checking this distance will ensure they fit just right.
- Test run each shoe on a treadmill, in the store, or around the block. Just trying a running shoe on and sitting on the bench in the store won't tell you how the shoe feels in motion. The store may have a treadmill you can use to try them out. Otherwise ask to run around the block to get a sense for the shoe.[15]
- You can ask a salesperson or a friend to watch you run and see if it looks like your feet are well-supported and not turning inwards or outwards.
- Wear one shoe on your left foot and another on your right to break a tie. When it comes down to two or three, the pressure can mount, and tiebreakers become important. If you take a quick jog and one side feels more natural, that shoe may be a better choice.
- Try on shoes in the afternoon and evening. This will ensure that your feet are swollen similarly to how they will be when you run, and that your shoe doesn't have too tight of a fit.[16]
- If you purchase a pair and they feel wrong after one or two runs, you may still be able to return them, depending on the conditions and the store or site you bought them from.
- In-store, salespeople may try to push shoes that are well above your price limit, so clearly stating your budget from the start will help prevent up-selling. Online, it is important to stay clear of shoes that seem to be extremely cheap. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
[Edit]References |
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