How to Make a Clay Magnet Posted: 03 Sep 2019 01:00 AM PDT Magnets are a fun way to spice up your fridge or whiteboard. Why not make your own out of clay? You can let your creativity flourish with this fun and simple art project. Just model your clay into the shape you want, bake it, paint it, and add a magnet. This is a great project for kids and adults alike. Keep your magnets for yourself, or give them as handmade gifts. [Edit]Modeling Your Clay - Lay wax paper on your work surface and wash your hands. Wax paper will protect your table or counter from clay residue. It will also protect your clay from any debris on your work surface. Washing and drying your hands will prevent you from leaving streaks of dirt on your artwork.[1]
- Squish a chunk of modeling clay in your hands until it's soft. Modeling clay will come out of the package stiff, especially if it has been sitting in a cool storage place. You'll need to soften it with the motion and warmth of your hands before you can mold it into the shape you want.
- You can use a polymer clay, which needs to be baked in the oven, or an air-dry clay.[2]
- Use colored clay for a colorful magnet, or choose plain clay and paint it later.
- Combine different colors of clay for a swirled look. To swirl multiple colors of clay together, stack chunks of different colored clay next to each other, and twist them into a rope between your hands. Coil the rope until it makes a rolled disk.[3]
- Roll the clay into a small sphere and flatten it onto the wax paper. Whether you've just got a chunk of one color, or have swirled multiple colors together, you should now roll the clay into a sphere between the palms of your hands. Press the sphere onto the newspaper in a pancake.[4]
- If you want the clay to be a smooth, even thickness, roll it gently with a rolling pin until it is about ¼ inch thick (.63 cm).[5]
- Cut the clay with a cookie cutter, if you want. Press the cookie onto the clay, and remove the scrap clay from around your shape. You can then squish up the scrap clay, roll it out, and cut it with a cookie cutter again, just like making cookies.[6]
- Use the mouth of a glass to cut perfect circles, or a shot glass to cut tiny circles. Just place the glass upside-down on the clay and press it down until it cuts through the clay.
- Mold your clay into your favorite shape or animal. If you don't have a cookie cutter in your favorite shape, use your hands to mold the clay. Try a heart, a star, a butterfly, an owl or whatever strikes your imagination. Just make sure the shape is pretty flat. If it's too bulky, the magnet won't be strong enough to stick it to the fridge.[7]
- Slice your clay into rectangles to make fridge poetry. If you want, you can make your own fridge poetry, with words you and your friends can rearrange into silly or pretty sentences. Roll your clay with a rolling pin until it is ¼ inch thick (.63 cm), and then slice it into rectangles. [8]
- You can stamp the rectangles with letter stamps to imprint words into them. This looks really cool, but is quite time-consuming.
- For a quicker option, just bake the rectangles, and paint words onto them later.
[Edit]Baking Your Clay - Preheat your oven to the temperature you'll need to bake your clay. Most modeling clay requires an oven temperature of 275 – 300 °F (135 – 149 °C). Check the package of clay to determine what temperature it needs.[9]
- Arrange the clay shapes on a baking sheet, spaced evenly. Make sure none of the clay shapes are touching each other or sitting on top of each other. This will make sure they bake well.[10]
- Place the baking sheet on the center rack of the oven. This will make sure the clay is baked evenly from the top and the bottom. Remember to use hot mitts if you have to pull out the oven rack to place the baking sheet on top.[11]
- Bake the clay according to the manufacturer's directions. Typically this will be at 275°F (135°C) for 15 minutes. Some modeling clay doesn't even need to be baked, it just needs to dry. In that case, let your clay sit on the wax paper for however long is specified on the clay package.[12]
- If you're at a high altitude, above 3,500 feet (1066 m), you'll need to bake your clay at a higher temperature and for more time. Add 5 degrees to the recommended temperature and 10 extra minutes.[13]
- Let the clay cool and harden for about 20 minutes before you decorate it. Depending on how thick you made your clay shape, it may take a little less or more time than 20 minutes. Leave the clay shape on a flat surface while it cools, because while it's still warm, it can bend and break.[14]
[Edit]Decorating and Magnetizing - Paint your clay shape with acrylic paint. If you want to add extra decorations to your clay shape, use a small paintbrush and some acrylic paint. Try curlicues, geometric designs, flowers, or whatever pops into your imagination![15]
- If your magnets are circles, consider painting them with smiley faces and different facial expressions. Kids can use the different magnets to express their mood on a particular day.
- Or, if your clay is in rectangles, paint words on them, so people can rearrange the words into fridge poetry.[16]
- For a unified look, consider decorating all your magnets with the same color paint.[17]
- Let the paint dry for 30 minutes. Most acrylic craft paints take about 30 minutes to dry, but check the paint tube to make sure. If you're living somewhere with a really humid climate, it might take longer than usually to dry.[18]
- You can speed up paint drying by placing your shapes in front of a fan, on low.
- Attach a magnet to the back of your shape. You can buy adhesive magnets, where all you need to do is peel off the magnet's cover and stick the magnet onto your clay shape. Or, you can buy regular magnets, and use hot glue to attach them to your shape.[19]
- If you're a kid, get help from an adult with the hot glue, because it can burn your fingers.
- Display your new magnet on your fridge. Your magnet is complete! Give it a place of honor on the fridge or anywhere else magnetic. Clay magnets also make great gifts to give to teachers, because teachers can put magnets on their whiteboards.[20]
- Make sure to glue the magnet onto the side of your clay shape that you like the least! This side will be invisible once it's stuck to the fridge or wherever else you want to put it.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't use a hot glue gun without adult help.
- Don't use hot glue near flammable objects.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Modeling clay
- Hot glue
- Flat magnets
- Cookie cutter (optional)
- Acrylic paint (optional)
- Small paintbrush (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Break in Your Doc Martens Posted: 02 Sep 2019 05:00 PM PDT From factory and harbor workers to punks and goth rockers, Doc Martens have been a popular shoe choice since 1945. Comfortable and sturdy once broken in, they last forever and can be buffed to a mirror shine even after several years of wear. The only problem is that they can be cast-iron to break in, resulting in blisters, bruises, and lots of pain. By finding the right fit and starting slow with wearing your boots around the house for a couple of hours a day, you can minimize the pain it takes to break in these classic boots. [Edit]Breaking in Doc Martens Traditionally - Buy Doc Martens in the right size. Doc Martens tend to run true to size, but try them on anyway to make sure you buy the right size. Boots in the right size should feel tight, but not uncomfortable.[1]
- If the shoe feels immediately uncomfortable when you try it on, especially in the width, it is too small.
- Doc Martens only come in whole sizes. The official website recommends sizing down if you normally take a half size.[2]
- Put on a thick pair of socks and pull on the laced-up boots. Wearing thick socks with Doc Martens will cause them to widen out and break in a little faster. They also help protect your feet from blisters. Put the laces back in your boots and tie them tightly.[3]
- The lining of Doc Martens can cause damage to your feet through friction. Thick socks help reduce friction and minimize pain.
- Walk around for 5-10 minutes at home then take the boots off. Start with wearing your Doc Martens around home for short periods of time. The soles of the boots will be very stiff, and the leather will feel tight. Once the boots start to hurt, take them off.[4]
- Don't try to wear your boots for a long period of time or on a long walk the first time you wear them.
- Protect the places where you felt pain. Most often, people experience pain in the heel of the shoe. Note any areas where you see blisters or redness. Cover those areas with bandages or moleskin.[5]
- Moleskin is a little thicker than a bandage and can stay on better. Find moleskin at a pharmacy or online.
- Wear your boots for 1-2 hour intervals at home. Once you have protected your blisters, you can start wearing your Doc Martens around the house for slightly longer periods of time. Take them off once they start to hurt.[6]
- Repeat the process for several weeks. Keep wearing your Doc Martens around your home for short periods of time every day. If you feel comfortable, you can increase the amount of time you wear them each time or wear your Doc Martens outside on short walks. You can also reapply the balm up to once a week.[7]
- Doc Martens can take up to 3-6 weeks to fully break in. Vegan Doc Martens don't need to be broken in at all.[8]
[Edit]Speeding up the Process - Take out the laces and rub the leather with balm. Doc Martens are made out of stiff, full-grain leather. The official website recommends using Doc Martens Wonder Balsam to clean and protect the leather and to help make it softer. The Wonder Balsam is a mix of lanolin, beeswax, and coconut oil, so you can also look for an off-brand product or create your own blend.[9]
- Beeswax is an important factor in keeping the shoes water-resistant, so look for it as an ingredient if you are buying a different balm or making your own.
- Remove the insole to make the breaking-in process less painful. The inner lining of Doc Martens is made of an abrasive material that rubs against the foot and creates blisters. Removing the insole takes some of the friction away and helps prevent blisters.[10]
- It's still best to wear thick socks to prevent blisters around the ankle.
- Wrap the shoes in a towel and hit the heel with a hammer. Wrapping the shoes first will help protect them from getting damaged by the hammer. Hammer around the heel and the sole of the shoe for 15-20 minutes.[11]
- Hammering your Doc Martens can diminish the smoothness of the new leather.
- Stuff your Doc Martens tightly with newspaper. Pack as much newspaper as you can tightly into the toes of your boots. Remove the laces to make the shoes easier to stuff. This will stretch out the toe box of your Doc Martens.[12]
- You can alternate stuffing your shoes with newspaper and wearing them around the house with thick socks to double up on breaking in methods.
- You can also look for a boot stretcher online or at a shoe store to get a similar effect.
- Aim a hairdryer at the tightest part of your boots. Wearing your Doc Martens with thick socks. Apply a thin coat of Wonder Balsam on the boot, then heat the boot with the low setting on a hairdryer for 5-10 minutes to melt down the oils and help them absorb into the leather quickly. Wear the boots until they are cool.[13]
- Don't use the high heat setting, as you can scald your leather and promote cracking and splitting.
- Walk around, stand on your toes and bend down a lot to help develop the creases in the shoes that are signs that they are softening. Working at a computer, as part of your normal daily routine, may not be enough activity to break in your shoes.
- The first time you wear your Doc Martens out for the day, bring another pair of shoes with you in case you start to get blisters.
- Try doing calf raises, rolling all the way back to your heel and then to your toes.
[Edit]Warnings - If you develop foot blisters, it is best to wait until they have healed before resuming the process of breaking in your shoes.
- Any shoe polish should be wax or oil-based and serves no functional purpose, only aesthetic. It does not protect or soften your leather, only add color or shine.
- Don't put your boots in the freezer, with or without bags of water in them.
- Don't put your boots in the oven.
- Don't use water to break in the boots.
- Don't wear two pairs of socks at once whilst wearing any pair of shoes, this can actually increase the chance of blistering due to the layers creating friction
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Doc Martens Wonder Balsam
- Thick socks or several socks
- Hammer (optional)
- Newspaper (optional)
- A hairdryer with a low/medium setting (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Fix Cat Scratches in Leather Posted: 02 Sep 2019 09:00 AM PDT There's nothing more annoying than your cat deciding to use your leather furniture as a scratching post. While cat scratches are an eyesore, they don't have to be a permanent decoration of your leather goods. With specific leather supplies, you can make your leather look completely unscathed. [Edit]Conditioning and Sanding the Scratched Area - Clean off the surface with a leather wipe. The leather needs to be as clean as possible before you repair it. Clear off any lingering dust or dirt with a leather cleaning wipe. Use small, circular motions to clean the leather surface thoroughly.[1]
- If you don't have any leather wipes on hand, you can buy some at a home improvement store or online.
- Remove any stray fibers with scissors or a lighter. Use a pair of scissors to snip off any loose strands from the leather.[2] You can also use a lighter on the scratched area, as the heat of the flame will loosen the punctured and scratched leather.[3]
- Moisten the area with leather conditioner. Start by dampening the scratched leather surface with a small amount of leather conditioner. You can find leather conditioner at some drug stores or online.[4]
- The conditioner prepares the leather for the glue and filler that will go on top of
- If you are working with aniline leather, be sure to use distilled water.[5]
- Apply thin layers of leather glue to the affected area. Pour a coin-sized amount of glue to the sponge. Then, use a sponge to spread a thin layer of glue onto the leather. For the best results, apply at least 7 layers of glue to the scratched leather.[6]
- Let each layer of glue dry before you apply another one.
- Leather glue reconnects the punctured portions of the leather.[7]
- Sand down the leather after the glue has dried. Using soft sandpaper (around 1200 grit), sand down the glue with smooth and circular strokes. Make the surface as smooth as possible so that the leather filler won't look lumpy when you apply it.[8]
- Make sure to wipe down any leftover dust from the sandpaper before continuing.
[Edit]Repairing the Leather - Use a palette knife to apply leather filler. Dip a plastic palette knife into the leather filler and paint a thin layer onto the glued leather. Make this layer as smooth as possible, so that the leather doesn't look messy. Feel free to add another layer of filler if you think your leather needs it.[9]
- Make sure the first layer of filler has dried for at least 20 minutes before adding any more.
- Purchase a palette knife at a home improvement store if you don't have one on hand.
- You can use a spatula instead of a palette knife.[10]
- Wait for the filler to dry. Let the leather air dry in your work area before proceeding. Depending on the type of filler you're using, you may have to wait at least several hours before it is totally dry.[11]
- If you're working in a room or area with a lot of humidity, it may take longer for the leather filler to dry.[12]
- Smooth the filler with sandpaper. Use another piece of gentle (1200 grit) sandpaper to smooth and buff out any inconsistencies on the filler's surface. This helps to keep the surface of your leather as smooth as possible, so the finished repair looks natural and authentic.[13]
- Wipe any excess dirt and dust from the filled area. Before you start to recolor anything, use a moist wipe or a liquid cleaning product specific to leather to clean and polish off the surface. There may be some sandpaper grit leftover on the surface of the filler. [14]
- Leather cleaner can be found at generic stores that sell cleaning supplies or at home improvement stores.
- If you don't have any leather cleaner on hand, a baby wipe can work in a pinch.[15]
[Edit]Recoloring the Surface - Sponge a colorant onto the filled spot. Pour a coin-sized amount of the solution on a sponge. Use small, delicate motions to sponge the colorant over the dried filler. You can find leather colorant at most home improvement stores.[16]
- Let the colorant dry completely. Before you continue on with any more layers of colorant and sealant, make sure that the first layer of colorant has dried completely.[17]
- To speed up the drying process, use a hair dryer at a low heat setting.[18]
- Spray on additional colorant to the treated area. Use a spray colorant to apply another layer of color to enhance the initial layer of colorant. [19] If your leather is multiple colors, use different shades of colorant to reach your desired shade.[20] Apply at least 4-5 thin layers of spray-on colorant to get a full, vibrant color on your treated leather area.[21]
- Make sure each layer is dry before you add another.[22]
- Allow the leather to fully dry. To avoid the colorant from smearing along the leather's surface, make sure that it has dried completely. Thankfully, thin layers don't take as long to dry. This could take around half an hour or more.[23]
- Check the directions on your colorant bottle to find a specific estimate on how long it will take to dry.
- Rub a sealant into the leather with a sponge. Use a new sponge to paint at least 3 layers of sealant onto the leather. Make sure that each layer is dry before you add more sealant. The sealant will keep the leather colorant vibrant and protected.[24]
- Double check your sealant's packaging to get a rough estimate on the drying time.
- Apply a leather finishing product after the sealant dries. Place a coin-sized amount of leather finishing product on the sponge before rubbing it on top of the leather. Use short, circular motions to get an even finish. Try to have at least 4 thin coats of finish to get an adequate protection layer.[25]
- The leather finishing product provides another layer protection.
- Ensure that each layer of finish has dried before you add another one.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Leather wipes
- Scissors
- Lighter
- Distilled water (optional)
- Leather conditioner
- Leather glue
- Fine grit sandpaper
- Palette knife
- Spatula (optional)
- Leather filler
- Leather cleaner
- Wet wipes (optional)
- Leather colorant
- Spray-on colorant
- Leather sealant
- Leather finishing product
- Sponges
- Spray-on cat pheromones may help to prevent your cat from scratching your leather furniture in the future.[26]
- Purchase a leather repair kit online if you don't want to search for each individual product at the store. An online marketplace should carry them.
[Edit]References |
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