| How to Spot Car Scams on Craigslist Posted: 04 Jan 2020 12:00 AM PST Craigslist scams are unfortunately pretty common, so it's important to be extra vigilant if you want to buy a car from a seller on Craigslist. You can protect yourself from scams by evaluating the ad carefully before you look any further. If the ad seems legit, evaluate the seller next. If they seem trustworthy, assess the car to see if you want to buy it. Never put down any amount of money on a car before you have seen it as this is a common way that people get scammed on Craigslist. [Edit]Identifying Fraudulent Ads - Watch out for ads with a very low or unusual price. If the price is significantly lower than you'd expect it to be, this is a red flag. Check the Kelly Blue Book price to get a ballpark range for what the price ought to be. If it's considerably lower, such as 25% less or more, then the ad is likely a scam. A very specific price can also be a red flag, such as $2,347 or something along these lines.[1]
- If the seller suggests shipping the car to you for an additional charge or including shipping in the sale price, this is likely a scam.[2]
- Check the listing for severe grammar issues. If the car's description is poorly written and difficult to understand, it might have been written by a scammer. Pass on any cars with descriptions that are chock full of grammatical, spelling, or other errors.[3]
- For example, steer clear of an ad that reads something like, "new sidan for weel driv plus exxtras."
- Perform a reverse image search of the car photo. Copy the image's url and paste it into Google's image search, or download and save the image and then drag and drop it into the search bar after clicking on the camera button next to the search bar. Then, review the results to determine if the same photo is posted elsewhere. If you find multiple listings that use the same image, the ad is likely a scam.[4]
- By doing a reverse image search, you may even find that the image is a stock photo and not an image of a real car for sale.
- Copy and paste the car description into Google to spot duplicates. Place the description in quotation marks to find duplicate listings. Some scammers will post multiple ads using the exact same language, so this is an easy way to weed out fake ads.[5]
- Be wary if the language is very similar to other ads as well. Look at other aspects of the ad to check for red flags.
- Compare the price of the car in the ad with the website listing. If the seller also has a website or Facebook page, make sure that the prices listed for the car are the same on both sites. If the price listed on one of the outlets is lower, negotiate from this price instead of from the higher price.[6]
- For example, if the car is listed for $2,500 on the seller's Facebook page and $3,000 on the Craigslist post, negotiate down from $2,500 rather than from $3,000.
- Email the seller if there's no location or phone number listed in the ad. The ad should clearly indicate where the car is located and provide a contact phone number for the seller. If there's no location or phone number listed, this may be a red flag. However, you can email the seller to see if they will provide a location and phone number. If they refuse to tell you where the car is located of give you a phone number, this is likely a scam.[7]
- Another red flag is a location that doesn't make sense, such as "in the mountains of Orlando."
[Edit]Evaluating the Seller - Be especially wary of sellers who tell a sad story. Sob stories are often used by scammers to rush a sale, so be wary if the seller tells you one or mentions other circumstances unrelated to the car. For example, if the seller tells you a story about being laid off and needing money quickly to pay their bills, this is a red flag. Other things to watch out for include:[8]
- Saying they're about to be deployed and need to sell the car in a hurry.
- Claiming they have other buyers interested, so they need a decision right away.
- Calling you repeatedly to ask if you've made a decision.
- Avoid sellers who claim to be handling the sale for someone else. If the seller says they're handling the sale of the car for a neighbor, elderly parent, or someone else, be cautious. This is often a red flag and it may indicate that the car was stolen. Always ask to see the title and seller's ID to ensure that the car you're looking at belongs to the person who is selling it.[9]
- A seller may also claim to have less knowledge about the vehicle under the veil of this story, which could result in not getting clear answers to your questions about the car.
- Research any website that the seller directs you to for payment. The safest option is to pay the seller with cash, so be cautious if they direct you to a website to make your payment. Sellers will often provide an escrow website address to increase the buyer's sense of security, but this does not mean they are not scamming you. Evaluate the site thoroughly to ensure that it is a legitimate website.[10]
- Avoid sellers that claim to be associated with eBay or eBay Motors as well. This is a common scam and they may even send you emails and links to websites that look like they're coming from eBay.[11]
- Avoid curbstone dealers who suggest meeting at their houses. A curbstone dealer is someone who sells a car in front of their house. The person might be a dealer with an actual car lot, but they may move a car to their house and park it out front to increase the perceived value of the car. People tend to be less critical of cars that appear to be being sold by the previous owner, especially if the person lives in a nice neighborhood.[12]
- If you do decide to look at a car at someone's house, bring a friend or family member along with you. If you don't know much about cars, bring someone along who knows about cars.
- Call the seller to evaluate their knowledge and professionalism. Talking on the phone with a seller is a good way to feel out their character and ask more questions about the car. Ask about the condition of the car, any issues it has, and request a test drive if you're interested.[13]
- As an added bonus, some sellers will also be willing to reduce the price further if they perceive you as a serious buyer.
- Meet the seller in a public place to conduct the final sale transaction. If you decide to buy a car from a Craigslist seller, it's best to make your payment with cash and in person. Request to meet with the person in a public place or at the bank to ensure that you will have witnesses if the person attempts to rob you.[14]
- Never pay the person using a wire transfer or using Western Union as this is a common scam tactic.
[Edit]Assessing the Vehicle - Refuse to pay any amount of money for a car you've never seen. If you haven't seen the car, it may not exist. Stick to cars that are close enough to your location that you can go look at them. Avoid cars that are located in another state or country, or even vehicles that are a few hours away. Try to purchase only from local dealers so that you can bring the car in to them if there's a problem.[15]
- Be especially wary of sellers who say they will ship the vehicle to you.[16]
- Compare the number on the odometer to other age-related features. The average person puts per year on a vehicle, so a car that is 3 years old would likely have around on it. If the car has considerably fewer miles, then the seller may have tampered with the odometer. Note the appearance of the interior and the condition of the tires. If the interior or tires are well-worn, then the car's odometer may be inaccurate.[17]
- Keep in mind that elderly people and teenagers tend to drive around per year, so this could also account for lower mileage. Ask questions about the previous owner if the mileage seems low.
- Search for the car's history using the vehicle identification number. Scammers may provide you with a forged report that leaves important details out of the car's history. Do not accept a report that the seller provides. Instead, look up the car's history using the vehicle identification number (VIN). You can search the VIN on a website like Carfax and get a full report.[18]
- Be wary of any cars that were involved in accidents or that had ongoing issues.
- Request to take the car on a longer test drive if the seller rushes it. Scammers often try to avoid letting potential buyers take the car for a full test drive since this may reveal issues with the car. If the seller tries to rush the test drive, tell them you would like to drive it a little longer and in different conditions to see how well it works. If they say no or try to convince you that a longer test drive is not necessary, don't buy the car.[19]
- During the test drive, drive the car at slow and fast speeds, pay attention to how well it brakes and turns, and note any unusual sounds.
- Ask to get the car assessed by your mechanic before you buy it. Unless you are car savvy yourself, it can be difficult to spot issues with a car. Bring along a friend who knows a lot about cars or ask the seller to meet you at your mechanic's garage to check the car for any serious issues.[20]
- For example, a mechanic will be better equipped to check the engine for major issues and tell if the seller may have tampered with the car in any way.
[Edit]References |
| How to Recycle Newspaper Posted: 03 Jan 2020 04:00 PM PST Recycling newspaper is incredibly easy since there isn't anything unique about newspaper that makes it difficult to process. Most newspapers can be included with your standard recyclables. Contact your municipal government to find out how you should sort your recycling for pickup. If you prefer, you can also compost your newspaper alongside leaves, food waste, and lawn trimmings. If you want to get more use out of your newspaper before recycling or composting it, use it as a packing material, gift wrap, weed killer, or window cleaner. [Edit]Using Your Standard Recycling - Contact your municipal government to see if they take newspaper. There is nothing special about newspaper that makes it hard to recycle. However, some local governments have unique restrictions on what type of recyclables can be put in the same bin, and some require that papers and plastics be separated. Call your local streets and sanitation department to see what their recycling requirements are for newspapers.[1]
- Look online to find your local streets and sanitation or waste collection department's phone number. It may also be printed on your recycling bin if your city provided you with it.
- The vast majority of the time, your city's waste collection department will tell you that newspaper can be stuffed in the same bin as your other plastics, papers, and cardboard boxes.
- Place your newspaper in your standard recycling bin. Fold your newspaper flat so that it fits in your recycling bin and doesn't take up a ton of space. Set it outside for your weekly pick-up alongside your cardboard and other paper.[2]
- Keep your recyclables away from food contamination by holding on to your takeout containers and disposable plates. Food-waste and greasy residue belongs in the trash, not your recycling bin.
- Take your newspapers to a recycling plant if your city doesn't pick up. If your local government doesn't recycle or they refuse to take newspapers, you can take them to a plant yourself. Look online to find recycling plants in your area. Call the closest plant and ask them if they take newspaper. If they do, wait until you've filled a bin with newspapers. Then, drive them to the local plant and drop them off for recycling,[3]
- Unless the plant has a special focus on materials that are difficult to process, the recycling plant near you will have no problem taking your newspaper.
- Most municipal plants do not charge a fee for dropping materials off.
[Edit]Composting Newspaper - Create a compost bin or pile, using your newspaper as filler. Composting is the process of piling up organic materials and allowing them to decompose over time. This can be done in a bin, box, or free-standing pile. Choose to set up a composting bin or box if you want to keep your compost contained. If you have a large yard, a free-standing pile is perfectly fine.[4]
- You need a mix of "green" and "brown" materials to compost. Green materials refer to organics that are usually green, like plants, flowers, and food waste. Browns tend to be white or brown. Newspapers count as a brown for composting purposes, even if they are white or gray in color.
- Get a bin with a lid if you're worried about smell. It isn't essential for the composting process, though.
- Layer your newspapers in the bottom half of a compost bin or pile. To effectively compost, you need an equal mixture of green and brown layers. Since newspaper takes longer to break down than standard organic waste and can blow away in the wind, lay it out flat in the bottom half of your bin to keep it weighed down. You can add any number of layers, but the more you add, the longer it will take to break down.[5]
- It doesn't matter what type of newspaper you use or how many layers you add. The bigger your compost pile is, the longer it will take to break down, though.
- Incorporate your newspaper in thinner layers if you want them to compost as quickly as possible.
- Include a mixed set of green and brown layers for maximum effectiveness.
- Add your compost by hand or with a shovel. You shouldn't add any toxic materials to the pile to begin with, so it will be fine to touch the compost.
- Wait 2-4 weeks for your pile to begin breaking down. Compost will break down naturally over time. Eventually, it will turn into a soil-like substance that you can use in your yard as fertilizer. Leave the pile alone for 2-4 weeks to let it start to break down.[6]
- Mix your pile and wait another 3-4 weeks for your compost to break down. The amount of time that it takes for your compost to decompose depends upon the materials, the temperature, and the air flow your compost is exposed to. After the first 2-4 weeks have passed, use a shovel or trowel to mix your pile up. Mix the pile once a week to continue introducing air, which will aid in the breakdown of the organic materials. Wait another 3-4 weeks for your pile to break down into a soil-like material.[7]
- It may take longer than 6 weeks for your compost to break down if you have a really large pile.
- Use your compost in the garden as a topsoil. Compost is a nutrient-rich material that will promote healthy plant growth in your garden. Once your compost has broken down, spread it out across your garden as a topsoil to incorporate it into your yard or garden.[8]
- Start a new compost pile or bin once you spread your decomposed compost out.
- You can tell when a compost pile is done decomposing when you can no longer identify the ingredients that you originally added. It should look like a uniform mound of soil-like debris.
[Edit]Upcycling and Reusing Newspaper - Use old newspaper as gift wrap to cut back on waste. Instead of spending money on fancy gift wrap, use stacks of old newspaper to wrap your gifts. Lay a sheet of newspaper flat and place your box or item in the center of the paper. Pull a corner up and smooth it down with the palm of your hand. Use a piece of tape to affix the corner to your item and repeat for the other corners. Use multiple sheets layered on top of one another to cover the item.[9]
- Keep shipped goods from breaking with newspaper. Newspaper is soft and makes a great packing material. Instead of using bubble wrap or packing peanuts, fill your boxes with crumpled newspaper to keep your goods from breaking or shattering while they're being shipped.[10]
- Packing peanuts and bubble wrap are extremely difficult to recycle. This is a good way to avoid introducing them into the environment.
- Do not use newspaper to keep perishable goods safe. The ink on the paper may make its way into the organic material.[11]
- Clean windows and glass with black and white newspaper. The next time you grab some window cleaner to clean your windows, use newspapers instead of paper towels. Spread the newspaper out around your palm and wipe your windows using a circular motion after spraying them with the cleaner. Dry newspaper can also be used to wipe your cleaner off and wipe your window dry.[12]
- Don't use paper with color ink on it to do this. Sometimes, colored ink breaks down and wipes off when it gets wet. Black and white newspaper will be fine though.
- If you really want to cut back on your carbon footprint, use a mixture of 1-part vinegar and 1-part water instead of a commercial cleaner.
- You can compost your vinegar-soaked newspaper after you're done. You can't recycle it in your standard recycling bin, though.
- Smother weeds in your garden with newspaper stacks. To use newspaper in your garden, grab a stack of 5-10 newspapers. Take them to a weed-infested area of your garden and lay them directly on top of the weeds. Then, cover the newspapers with wood chips or mulch to smother the weeds and keep them from spreading. Over time, your newspapers will decompose on top of the weeds and work their way into your soil, killing the weeds in the process.[13]
- This is a good way to get rid of newspapers naturally without introducing harmful chemicals into your garden.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using Your Standard Recycling [Edit]Composting Newspaper - Compost bin (optional)
- Shovel or trowel
[Edit]References |
| How to Grow Ivy from Cuttings Posted: 03 Jan 2020 08:00 AM PST Ivy is a prolific and lush plant that can add a lot of green to your landscape or your home. Whether you want ivy for your yard or for inside your home, growing ivy from cuttings is an easy process that will save you the cost of buying new plants. Start by gathering your cuttings, then root them in soil or water. Keep them in a warm area that gets indirect light and repot them the following spring. With just a little bit of effort and some time, you will have an abundance of new ivy plants that you didn't have to purchase. [Edit]Gathering Your Cuttings - Take cuttings from ivy in the late summer or early fall. This is the time of year when there will be fresh growth on the plant, which is especially good for cuttings. Also, the weather will be ideal in the fall to get the cuttings started. Aim to take cuttings before cold weather sets in.[1]
- Taking cuttings at this time of year will also make the timing right for planting your new plants in the spring if they are going outside.
- Look for young, fresh growth on an existing plant. Ivy cuttings work best when they are made from the current year's growth. You can identify new growth by looking for the parts of the ivy plant that look fresh and light green, not the older areas that have dark green leaves and thick stems.[2]
- This kind of cutting is called a semi-ripe cutting. It is taken from this year's growth, not older sections.
- Avoid picking out pieces that are damaged or have unusual growth patterns.
- Find a stem that has 3 to 4 nodes on it for best results. Hold the stem with 1 hand just above one of the nodes. Locate a spot right above the nodes or a set of leaves, so that the leaves will be left on the stem after you cut it.[3]
- Use clean garden shears or a knife to cut off at least . Using clean shears will reduce the chance of introducing a disease or pest onto the cutting as you gather it. To sterilize your shears, wipe isopropyl or rubbing alcohol over the entire cutting surface of the shears. Then, cut straight across the stem with the shears.[4]
- Wrap the cuttings in a damp towel and put them in a plastic bag. Wet a paper towel or rag and wrap it around the cut ends of the stems. Place the cuttings and the towel in a plastic bag to help keep them moist.[5]
- This is especially important if you need to wait to put your cuttings in soil for an hour or more.
- If possible, take your cuttings in the morning. The ivy plant will have a lot of moisture in it at that time, which can help to keep the cuttings moist.
[Edit]Rooting Your Cuttings in Soil - Choose pots that are big enough to insert all of the cuttings into. If you are doing 6 cuttings or less, a standard pot will work well. If you are doing more than 6 cuttings, choose a bigger pot or several pots.
- You can put cuttings in any type of pot, including terra cotta, plastic, and ceramic. However, no matter which you choose, the pots need to have drainage holes in the bottom.[6]
- Putting several cuttings in one pot will cut down on the space required for the cuttings and it will also mean fewer pots to water. Since the plants will need to be repotted once they have rooted, they will be perfectly fine together in one pot for this period.
- Fill the pots with soil and water them. Pick a general potting soil or a soil made specifically for propagation, which usually has a high percentage of perlite or sand. Fill each pot with soil until it is below the edge of the pot. Then, place the pot over a sink or set it outside, and fill the pot with water until it runs out of the bottom.[7]
- Leaving the soil below the edge of the pot will allow you to water the cuttings without the water overflowing.
- Put holes in the soil apart around the edge of the pot. Use the eraser end of a pencil to make the holes deep. This will allow you to put the cuttings into the soil without moving the rooting powder off the end of the cutting.[8]
- Make as many holes as you have cuttings.
- You can also use a skewer, dowel, or another small pointed object to make the holes.
- Trim off the ends of the cuttings again. Then, prune away any leaves that are within of the end of the cutting. This will give you a clean and fresh end to insert into the soil.[9]
- This is especially important if your cuttings were gathered longer than an hour or so ago, as the end of the cuttings is more likely to be dried out.
- Use clean shears or a knife to make these additional cuts.
- Dip the cut end of each cutting in rooting hormone. Open the container of rooting hormone and pick up your cutting. Dip the bottom of the cut end into the hormone. Lift it out to just above the surface of the hormone and tap it lightly to knock off any excess hormone.[10]
- You can buy rooting hormone in powder or liquid form. It is available at most garden stores and from online retailers.
- Place a cutting in each hole in the soil and secure it in place. Insert each cutting into an individual hole. Place the end with the rooting hormone into a hole until it hits the bottom. Hold the cutting upright with one hand and then press the soil around it so that it stays securely in place.
- As you are inserting the cutting, try to keep it centered in the hole so that very little of the rooting hormone is knocked off. However, losing a little of it on the top edge of the hole is fine.[11]
- Water the pot again until water runs out the bottom. Put the pot under a faucet or use a watering can to soak the soil. Keep watering in a light stream until water comes out of the bottom of the pot, which will signal that all of the soil is thoroughly moistened.
- Be careful not to disturb the cuttings too much as you water. Keep the stream of water away from the base of the cuttings so that they stay securely in the soil.
[Edit]Rooting the Cuttings in Water - Cut the stem just below the lowest root node. The nodes look like bumps on the stem where new stems and leaves grow out from. Use a clean knife or pair of sharp scissors and make the cut straight across the stem. Cut about below the node.[12]
- If there are any leaves beside the bottom node, pinch or cut them off.[13]
- Place the cutting in a clean cup with room-temperature water. Ensure that the water covers the bottom node on the stem and that there are not any leaves below the surface of the water. Pour out a little water if it's covering a stem.[14]
- Change the water once every 3 to 5 days and rinse the roots. Dump out the old water and replace it with new room-temperature water once every 3 to 5 days. When you do this, rinse off the roots with room-temperature water. You can also gently rub the roots with your fingers while you rinse them to remove any film that has gathered on the roots.[15]
- Transfer the cuttings to soil once the roots are in length. Observe the roots as they grow and move your cutting to a pot filled with soil after the roots are about long. Check the length of the roots buy pulling the ivy stem out of the water and holding a ruler next to the roots. Measure from the bottom node to the end of the roots.[16]
[Edit]Caring for Cuttings as They Root - Place the pots or cups in a bright, warm location either inside or outside. The pots or cups need to be out of direct sunlight but they can't be cold or light deprived. If the pots are inside, put them in a spot that is near a window that gets bright light but that will not shine directly on the cuttings. If you are keeping them outside, put them in a greenhouse, a propagator, or cover the pots with plastic bags and put them in a warm, bright spot out of direct sunlight.[17]
- You will need to check on the moisture level of potted cuttings often, so put the cuttings somewhere you can easily access.
- Keep the soil in potted cuttings damp at all times. Sprinkle the soil with water whenever the surface starts to dry out. The amount of time the soil takes to dry out will depend on the warmth and humidity where the plants are located.[18]
- In many cases, a mister works well to keep outdoor cuttings wet while direct watering works well for indoor pots.
- However, be careful not to drown the cuttings in too much water either. For example, don't leave the pot sitting in water.
- Remove any discolored or dead cuttings in the soil or water. In most cases, some of your cuttings won't survive. If you see a cutting that has turned yellow, wilted, or has fallen over, remove it from the pot. Taking dead and diseased cuttings out of the pot or cup will help the other cuttings to thrive.[19]
- When in doubt about whether a cutting is dead or dying, err on the side of caution and remove it. It's best to have fewer healthy plants than to have lots of diseased ones.
- Repot cuttings when they have new growth or wait until the spring. Climbers like ivy usually root in 1-2 months with proper care. Once you're ready to repot them, pot them as you would any new plant, being careful with the roots and giving them rich soil to thrive in.[20]
- If planting outdoors, you can put your young ivy plants in the ground or in a pot. However, keep in mind that a potted plant will need to be watered more often because it will dry out quicker.
- Allow the new plants establish themselves for at least a few months before repotting them.
[Edit]References |
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