| How to Photograph Hummingbirds Posted: 18 Feb 2020 12:00 AM PST Hummingbirds are beautiful animals, and many amateur photographers spend weeks trying to get a good photo of one. However, the birds fly very fast and rarely stay still long enough to be photographed, making it difficult to get a good image. If you're trying to get a non-blurry, well-focused shot of a hummingbird, the first thing you need to do is to create a setting where you can successfully photograph the hummingbirds. With a few camera adjustments and setup tips, you'll be well on your way to taking a hummingbird photo that's worth framing. [Edit]Setting up a Location - Set up a hummingbird feeder near your home. Hummingbirds are drawn to the brightly-colored feeders and sweet liquid inside, so if you hang one near your home in the warm summer months, you'll soon have a handful of birds coming by to eat every day. Position the feeder in a location where you can see it easily (e.g., in front of a kitchen window) so you'll know when the birds are coming by to eat. Then, grab your camera![1]
- If you happen to have more than 1 feeder already in place, take 1 down. You should only have 1 feeder hanging, so that all of the birds congregate in a single location.
- Sit or stand near the feeder so the birds acclimate to your presence. Hummingbirds are skittish and easily frightened off by humans walking around. In order to let the birds get used to you being nearby, sit or stand between away from the feeder. Photographing hummingbirds takes patience. Plan to sit still (though not completely motionless) for at least 15–30 minutes before the birds are comfortable enough to start feeding.[2]
- If it's a sunny day and you don't have other plans, you could even take a lawn chair out to the hummingbird feeder! You may need to spend several hours around the feeder anyway, waiting for the birds to arrive and taking various photos before you get a great one.
- Remove the feeder's perches and tape shut all but 1 of the holes. Since you most likely want to photograph the hummingbirds in flight, take off the feeder's perches so the birds will have to hover while they're feeding. Then, tear off 3 or 4 strips of scotch tape and use them to cover the feeder's holes, leaving only 1 open. This will ensure that the birds all feed at the exact same location, making it easier to set up your camera to take high-quality photos.
- With the perches removed and most of the holes blocked, you know where the bird will be and it will be much easier to position your shot.
[Edit]Positioning your Camera for Shooting - Set up your tripod about away from the feeder. This is a great distance from which to shoot hummingbirds. Being a little farther than from the birds will allow you to compose the shots as you like. The distance will also let you focus on the bird without the background of the photograph overwhelming the subject.[3]
- If your particular setup doesn't allow you to situate the tripod this far from the feeder, don't worry. You can always zoom out more with your lens if you're closer, or crop out blank space around the bird if you're too far away.
- Use a telephoto lens if you're shooting from farther away. If you had to set up your tripod much farther than from the hummingbird feeder, you'll need to use a lens with a zoom capacity. Otherwise, if your tripod happens to be positioned closer to the feeder, using a regular 35 mm lens will be fine. If your camera doesn't already have a good-quality lens, you can purchase one at a photography store.[4]
- Telephoto lenses also have another perk: in letting you shoot from farther away, they lower the likelihood that you'll spook the birds when you start snapping pictures.
- More experienced photographers may even choose to use a wide-angle or fisheye lens and position the tripod only about away from the birds. Since this would put you extremely close to the birds, you'd need to trigger the camera shutter remotely.
- Set up 3–4 flashes around the birdfeeder to light the hummingbirds. Flashes are small electric bulbs that will provide a burst of light when you click the camera's shutter button. Position your flashes so they're only away from the birdfeeder, and set them to low power. You only want each flash to be at about 1/16 of its full strength so that the flashes don't over-expose the birds' colorful bodies. Depending on the height of your birdfeeder, you may need to set up the flashes on their own small tripods. Lighting the scene with flashes will ensure that you have consistently good lighting regardless of the time of day you're shooting at.[5]
- In most cases, if you're shooting during the daylight hours, hummingbirds shouldn't be scared off by flashes.
- This step is technically optional. If you prefer to work without flashes, or if you're shooting in an area with bright, indirect sunlight, you may not need a flash at all.
[Edit]Adjusting Your Camera Settings - Choose an ISO around 400 or 800 to get crisp, detailed photos. If you're using a digital SLR, simply adjust the ISO setting on your camera to 400 or 800. 400 is a relatively slow film speed, so make sure you're shooting in bright sunlight or else the pictures may come out underexposed.[6]
- If you're shooting with film, you can purchase rolls of 400 or 800 ISO film at a photography outlet store.
- If you're shooting with a slow film speed in low-light conditions, you'll need to shoot with a flash to avoid taking dark photos.
- Turn on your lens's autofocus feature for quicker focus. Nearly all SLR digital and film cameras have an autofocus feature that continually focuses the lens on whatever object is in the center of the viewfinder. Hummingbirds will be flying much too fast for you to try to manually focus your lens on them, and using the autofocus will let you focus on timing and composing the shot.[7]
- If you're using a cheaper non-SLR camera, you can typically engage the autofocus feature by pressing the shutter button halfway down.
- Set your shutter speed to at least 1/800 of a second. In order to freeze the lightning-quick wings of a hummingbird mid-flap, you'll need to use a very fast shutter speed. If you use too slow of a speed, you'll notice that the birds' wings are blurry and hard to see. In some cases, to avoid blurry wings on a fast-flying hummingbird, you'll need to use a shutter speed of at least 1/2500 of a second to freeze the birds in motion.[8]
- Depending on the aesthetic of the photo you're trying to take, you may actually want the bird's wings to look blurry. In this case, use a slightly slower shutter speed to capture the wings' motion.
- Try a handful of different shutter speeds to see what works best. You could shoot 50 pictures at 1 shutter speed, then adjust it and shoot 50 more.
- Use a wide aperture around f/4 to adequately expose the photographs. Since you're using such a short shutter speed, you'll need to use a wide-open aperture setting to ensure that enough light gets into the camera. Manually set the aperture to f/1.4, f/4, or f/5 to prevent the shots from being dim and poorly lit. [9]
- Using a fast shutter speed and a wide aperture means that you'll have a low depth of field, so the scenery behind the hummingbird will likely be out of focus.
- On some SLC cameras, the aperture is referred to as the f-stop. These terms mean the same thing.
- Snap 200–300 photos to ensure that you get a good one. The majority of the shots you take will, unfortunately, not be great. The bird will be out of focus or poorly exposed, the shot will be poorly composed, or the lighting will be off. To avoid ending the photo session empty-handed, take hundreds of photos of the birds. This will dramatically improve your chances of having 1 or 2 great photos you can be proud of. If you have a digital SLR camera, you could also try engaging the function that lets you take 3-5 photos in rapid succession.[10]
- You could also try shooting a video of a hummingbird feeding and then select the best still video frame.
- If you're shooting with a digital camera, just make sure that you've cleared off enough memory on the device that you can fit hundreds of new photos.
- If you're shooting with film, be prepared to burn through 6–8 rolls.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Hummingbird feeder
- Scotch tape
- SLR camera
- Tripod
- 35 mm lens
- 3–4 flashes (optional)
- Telephoto lens (optional)
- Flash mounts (optional)
- Hummingbirds only live in the western hemisphere. While Central America—and especially Costa Rica—is especially rich in hummingbirds, you can spot them throughout North and South America as well.[11]
- If you're concerned about jiggling the camera when you push down the shutter button, you could invest in a remote shutter button. These allow you to stand away from the camera and trigger the shutter remotely, without pushing on the physical button.
- You might also try taking your tripod and camera to a nearby botanical garden and setting yourself up near a particularly bright flower display. However, since individual flowers each hold relatively little nectar, the birds won't hover in 1 place for long.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Do Needlepoint Posted: 17 Feb 2020 04:00 PM PST Needlepoint is an enjoyable hobby that you can take anywhere and it only requires the use of a few basic types of stitches. Create designs on a painted or blank canvas, and then turn your designs into a new decorative item. You can make key chains, belts, pillows, bookmarks, stockings, belt buckles, or almost anything with your needlepoint designs. [Edit]Setting up Your Needlepoint Materials - Choose a canvas and mounting materials. Visit a craft supply store to find a canvas and a frame or stretcher bars and tacks. You can purchase a blank canvas if you plan to draw your own needlepoint design onto it, or you can buy a canvas that already has a design printed on it. Choose a frame that will be large enough to hold your canvas.[1]
- A premade needlepoint design is the best option if you are new to needlepoint.
- Bind the edges of your canvas with masking tape. Always wash your hands before you touch the canvas to avoid getting any dirt or grime onto it.[2] This will keep the edges from unraveling while you work. Use wide or smaller tape. Fold the tape along the edges of the canvas to cover them completely from end to end.
- You can also hem the edges of the canvas with a sewing machine to prevent them from unraveling.
- Mount the canvas in a frame to hold it taut while you work. Unscrew the edges of the frame and place 1 piece onto a flat surface, such as a table. Lay the canvas on the frame and tug the edges of the canvas to open it up completely. Then, place the other side of the frame over the top of the canvas and secure the pieces together to hold the canvas taut.[3]
- You can also use stretcher bars and tacks to secure your canvas.
- Avoid working on loose canvas. This may increase your chances of distorting the fabric when you pull stitches taut.
- Thread a needle with an length of embroidery floss. Hold the thread in one hand and the needle in the other (eye up). Then, insert the tip of the thread into the eye of the needle and pull it through by about .[4]
- You can use any type of embroidery floss, thread, or yarn you like to do needle point. However, a multi-strand embroidery floss is recommended since you can pull it apart as needed for thinner stands.
- If you have a hard time threading the needle, insert the tip of the thread into your mouth and wet it with your saliva. This will stiffen the thread and make it easier to push through the eye of the needle.
- Secure the thread to the canvas with a waste knot. Tie the knot near the end of the long piece of thread. Then, insert the needle into the canvas on the right (front) side about from where you want to begin stitching. Then, bring the needle back out through the wrong (back) side of the fabric where you want to create the first stitch.[5]
- Make sure that you attach the waste knot in the same row that you want to start stitching.
- You will cut the waste knot after you stitch over the area around it, so don't worry about it being visible.
[Edit]Working Basic Stitches - Do a half-cross stitch for a simple stitch that covers a small area. Insert the needle through the wrong (back) side of the canvas. Choose a space at the top left of your canvas or at the top left of a block of color. Bring the needle through a space on the right (front) side of the canvas that is diagonally-adjacent to the stitch on the right side. Then, repeat the same stitch to create a stitch alongside your first stitch.[6]
- Work from left to right in a row across the canvas, and then work the stitch back along the row in the opposite direction.
- As you sew the second row, the second diagonal stitch should go through a space that already has thread going through it. This will help to reduce the visible canvas behind the thread.
- Use the continental stitch to provide more coverage over an area. Insert the needle into the space where you want to begin working the continental stitch. Then, bring the needle up diagonally and down through the stitch adjacent and to the right of that stitch. Then, come up through the next space in the row beside where you started the stitch.[7]
- Continue to work across the row going from right to left. Then, work back along the next row going from left to right.
- Make sure to insert the needle through spaces that already have 1 stitch in them on your second row.
- Try basketweave stitch to provide full coverage over large areas. Work this stitch diagonally starting at the top right hand corner of the area. Bring the needle down through the space that is diagonal to this space. Then, bring the needle back up through the space that is diagonally adjacent to this stitch, and repeat the stitch.[8]
- This stitch creates a pyramid like stitch design. It allows good coverage of the canvas with the least distortion and should be used in large areas.
- Do the brick stitch for a vertical stitch with good coverage. Insert your needle through the canvas where you want to begin the stitch. Bring the thread all the way through the canvas and pull it taut. Then, insert the needle into the second stitch up from where you brought the needle out. Bring the needle back through the canvas next to where you started the first stitch.[9]
- Use a thick thread, yarn, or multi-strand piece of embroidery floss to create the brick stitch.
- You can also try the Bargello or long point stitch for a more advanced vertical stitch.[10]
[Edit]Completing a Project - Work on the smallest or most detailed area first. Always start with the smallest, most detailed areas when you do needlework projects. This will be easier than trying to go in and stitch those areas later. Then, stitch the larger areas that surround the more detailed bits.[11]
- For example, if you have a section that is only about wide, start here rather than the section that is wide.
- Change the thread when you run out or need to switch colors. Insert the needle into the right side of the project. Then, push the needle through the back of the nearest 3 to 4 stitches and snip the thread near the stitches. Then, thread your needle with your next color or with the same color if you have more of this that you need to work. Create a waste knot, and keep stitching![12]
- Block the canvas if it has become distorted. Blocking your needlepoint is a way to reshape the canvas and give it a more structured look. Remove the canvas from the frame and dampen it with water, such as by spritzing it with a spray bottle. Then, lay it on a pillow or towel with the right side facing down. Pin it down with tacks or pins at intervals all the way around. Allow the canvas to dry completely before removing it.[13]
- The canvas should take only a few hours to dry, but you may want to leave it out overnight to be sure.
- Sew the finished design onto an item. You can turn your finished needlework into a pillow, sweatshirt, purse, or wall decoration. Trim the canvas as needed and then use a sewing machine or needle and thread to sew the canvas onto your item.[14]
- For example, you could sew your finished needlework project onto a pillowcase, a sweatshirt, or the side of a canvas bag.
- Your thread will probably become twisted as you stitch. Every few stitches let the needle dangle so it can unwind.
[Edit]Warnings - Always work on projects in an area with good lighting. Do not try to work with bad lighting and strain your eyes.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Needlepoint canvas (size 14)
- Tapestry needles (size 20 or 22)
- Embroidery floss, thread, or yarn
- Frame or stretcher bars and tacks
- Scissors
- Masking tape
- Pins
- Tote or canvas bag (optional)
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References |
| How to Improve Hip Mobility Posted: 17 Feb 2020 08:00 AM PST Tight hips can limit your mobility and make you feel stiff, which can be frustrating. Your hips may feel tight because you live a sedentary lifestyle or have a prior injury. Fortunately, doing hip flexibility stretches may help increase your hip mobility. Additionally, hip exercises improve your mobility while also strengthening your muscles, especially if you do hip mobility drills. However, check with your doctor or a physical therapist before you do hip exercises and always warm up with 10-15 minutes of cardio. [Edit]Doing Stretches to Improve Hip Mobility - Do stretches after being immobile for a long time. Stretching after you've been sitting or lying in one position for a long time can help loosen up your hips and prevent stiffness. Stretch first thing in the morning after sleeping, or any time you have to sit for an extended period (such as at work or after a long car ride).
- It's also a good idea to stretch before and after exercise to help warm up your muscles and prevent stiffness and cramping.
- Perform 1 hip stretch daily if you're short on time. You can get results with a single hip stretch every day. Pick your favorite hip stretch or alternate the stretches you do every day. If you're consistent, your hips will likely start to feel looser and more flexible.[1]
- For instance, you might do a different stretch each day.
- If a particular stretch feels more comfortable to you, stick to that stretch until you feel ready to try a different one.
- Do a series of hip stretches 5-7 days a week to get better results. You'll likely notice results faster if you do multiple hip stretches every day. Spend 15-30 minutes daily stretching your hips to help improve their mobility. Do each of the stretches to the best of your abilities, and stop if something feels uncomfortable.[2]
- Aim to do your hip stretches 5-7 days a week after cardio activity.
- Press your knees into your chest to stretch your hips. Lie down and stretch out on an exercise mat or the floor, with your arms at your sides. Slowly raise your right knee toward your chest and hold for 30 seconds. Lower your leg back down to the floor and repeat with your left leg.[3]
- Do 8-10 knee raises on each side daily to help stretch out your hips.
- This activity stretches the piriformis muscles, which attach your lower spine to your legs on both sides. Stretching the piriformis can help with hip flexion, or the motion of bringing your hip and leg towards your abdomen.
- Do a hip flexor stretch to open up your hips. Kneel down on your left knee and place your right leg in front of you with your foot flat on the floor. Both of your legs should be in 90-degree angles. Place your left hand on your left hip, then slightly push your hips forward to stretch. Keep your chest and back straight, and don't bend forward. Hold the stretch for 30 seconds.[4]
- Switch legs and repeat on the other side.
- Do the stretch daily to help open up your hips.
- If the knee that's on the floor hurts, place a pillow or towel under it to cushion it.
- Perform a lunge with a spinal twist. Stand up tall with your core engaged and your feet hip-width apart. Then, step forward with your right leg, bend your knees, and lower your body until both knees are at 90-degree angles. Extend your arms and twist your torso, lowering your right hand down to the floor. Extend your left arm up toward the sky and gently twist your head to look at your hand. Hold for 30 seconds, then slowly rise back to your starting position.[5]
- Switch to the other side, then do 10 repetitions on each side. Repeat the exercise as often as once a day to help open up your hips.
- Make sure your front knee doesn't go out past your toes.
- Listen to your body and only go as far as you can. Stop stretching if it feels tight or painful.
- Keep it simple with a butterfly stretch. Sit on an exercise mat or the floor with your legs bent in lotus position. Press the soles of your feet together and hold your feet in your hands. Press your feet into the floor, then slowly push your heels back toward your hips as far as you comfortably can. Hold for 30 seconds, then release.[6]
- Repeat for 10 repetitions to help improve your hip mobility. You can do the stretch every day or a few times per week.
- Open up your hips with a 90/90 stretch. Sit down on the floor and place your right leg in a 90-degree angle in front of your body with your foot pointed to the left. Rest your left leg on the floor at your side to help you stay balanced. Press your right butt cheek into the floor, then lower your left butt cheek toward the floor as far as you can go. Hold for 30 seconds.[7]
- You likely won't be able to push your left butt cheek all the way down to the floor. Go as far down as you can without the stretch feeling painful.
- Do this stretch as often as every day.
[Edit]Performing Hip Mobility Exercises - Do step-ups to open up your hips. Stand up straight in front of a step or sturdy box. Lift 1 leg and step up onto the step or box. Then, bring your other leg up onto the step or box. Use your lead foot to step back down to the floor.[8]
- Do 2-3 sets of 10-15 step-ups on each leg.
- Perform weighted lunges to work your hips. Stand up straight with dumbbells in each of your hands. Step forward with your right leg, then bend both legs into 90-degree angles to lower your body down toward the floor. Hold for 10-15 seconds, then rise back to your starting position to complete 1 repetition.[9]
- Do 2-3 sets of 8-12 weighted lunges on each leg.
- Start out with a lower weight, such as an weight on each side. Then, increase your weights as you get stronger.
- Do weighted squats to open your hips and work your muscles. Stand up straight with your legs slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Hold dumbbells at your hips or shoulders to increase the intensity of the exercise. Bend your knees to slowly lower yourself into a sitting position. Hold for 30 seconds, then slowly rise back to your starting position.[10]
- Do 2-3 sets of 12-15 weighted squats.
- You might start with an weight on each side.
- Include all-fours kickbacks to loosen your hips. Get down on the floor on all-fours. Balance your weight on your hands and 1 leg. Then, kick back your other leg, keeping your knee bent. Bring your heel as close to your butt as possible. Hold for 5-10 seconds, then slowly lower your leg back to the floor. Switch to the other leg to work that side of your hips.[11]
- Alternate legs for a total of 10-15 kickbacks on each side and do 2-3 sets.
- Perform side leg swings to help open up your hips. Stand up straight with your legs hip-width apart. Hold onto a chair to help you maintain your balance. Then, lift 1 leg and swing it out and away from your body. Raise your leg to the side as high as it will go. Hold for 2-3 seconds, then lower your leg back down to the floor.[12]
- Do 10-15 leg swings on that side, then switch sides and repeat on the other side. Perform 2-3 sets of the exercise to help you get results.
- Do hip mobility drills by repeating these exercises for 15-30 minutes. While you can use any of these exercises to improve your hip mobility, doing all of them in hip mobility drills will help you get better results. Set a timer for 15-30 minutes so you get a full workout. Then, do 2-3 sets of each exercise to complete a drill. Rest 1-2 minutes between sets to reduce your risk of injury.[13]
[Edit]Protecting Your Hips During Exercise - Check with your doctor before you start hip mobility exercises. Your doctor can make sure you're healthy enough for exercise. Additionally, they'll give you advice on how you can improve your hip mobility without accidentally injuring yourself. See your doctor to discuss your goal of improving your hip mobility.[14]
- Ask your doctor if the exercises you want to do are right for you.
- Tell your doctor about your current exercise routine.
- Avoid doing any hip mobility exercises if you've had a hip replacement unless your orthopedic doctor approves it. Some hip exercises aren't safe if you've had a hip replacement. An orthopedic doctor or physical therapist can show you how to exercise safely.
- Go to physical therapy to learn the exercises if you're in recovery. You may be doing hip exercises to help you recover from an injury or medical procedure. If this is the case, it's best to see a physical therapist who can show you how to safely do the exercises. Otherwise, you may accidentally hurt yourself.[15]
- It typically takes at least 2 visits with your physical therapist to learn the proper form for hip mobility exercises. However, your medical team may recommend you attend more sessions.
- Your physical therapy appointments may be covered by insurance, so check your benefits.
- Warm up with 10-15 minutes of cardio before doing hip exercises. Doing your exercises when your muscles are cold increases your risk of injuring yourself. Before you do your hip mobility exercises, do 10-15 minutes of moderate cardio activity. This warms up your body and prepares you to work out.[16]
- For instance, go for a brisk walk, jog in place, do jumping jacks, dance, or do low-impact cardio exercises.
- Do a hip workout 2-3 times a week to help improve your hip mobility. While you want to work your hips often, it's important to not push your body too hard. Rest or do a cardio workout in between your hip workouts. This will help you slowly improve your hip mobility over time.[17]
- For instance, you might do your hip workout on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday.
[Edit]Warnings - Doing exercises incorrectly can injure your hips. It's best to check with your doctor before you start exercising.
[Edit]References |
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