How to Remove Moss Posted: 05 Feb 2020 12:00 AM PST Moss is a type of plant that grows in large clumps or mats, and it can be unsightly if you have it in your yard or on your home. Luckily, there are easy ways that you can get rid of moss from any area with just a few simple tools. If you need to remove moss from a lawn, rake it or use chemicals to kill it before treating your soil. If you have moss growing on bricks, walls, or pavement, you can try scraping it off or cleaning it with a pressure washer. For moss that's growing on your roof, try to clean off as much as you can before applying cleaning solutions. [Edit]Removing Moss from Your Lawn - Drag a rake over the moss to break apart small clumps. Moss doesn't have an established root system, so it breaks apart easily. Pull the rake over the mossy area in different directions so you're more likely to rip it out of the ground. Continue raking the moss until you don't see anymore in your grass or soil. Pick up the moss you removed and throw it in the trash or a compost bin.[1]
- You can also buy special dethatching blades for your lawnmower that can tear up moss over large areas.
- Sprinkle iron sulfate on the moss if it doesn't rake up easily. Iron sulfate, also known as ferrous sulfate, dries mosses out without killing grass so you can easily remove them. Pour the granules of iron sulfate directly onto the mossy area so it has even coverage. Water the moss thoroughly so the iron sulfate can work into the moss and kill it faster. Wait 2–3 hours before you try raking the moss out of the ground.[2]
- If the moss doesn't come up after 2–3 hours, try again the next day.
- You can also treat your entire lawn by pouring the granules in a garden spreader and walking it through your lawn.
- Water the lawn only when needed to prevent moss from forming. Moss grows best when there's a lot of moisture, so standing water can cause it to form even faster. Rather than watering your lawn daily, wait until the grass shows signs of stress. When the grass has a dull bluish-grey color or your footprints are still visible after walking through it, then you should water again. Stop watering before you puddles form on your lawn, or else moss may come back.[3]
- Infrequent waterings actually help your lawn develop better since the grasses grow longer and healthier roots.
- Watering less will not kill moss that's already established in your lawn.
- Run an aerator over your lawn if you have compacted soil. An aerator is a mechanical device that removes small cylindrical cores of your lawn so water, oxygen, and nutrients can enter the soil. Place the aerator in 1 corner of your lawn and walk it in a straight line. Work back and forth across your entire lawn with the aerator so you can have healthy soil.[4]
- Buy or rent an aerator from your local garden or lawn care store.
- Aerating lawns will not kill moss on its own.
- Compacted soil can trap moisture above ground and cause moss to form in your lawn.
- Spread lime throughout your lawn if you have acidic soil. Moss grows better on top of acidic soil, but you can raise the pH by spreading garden lime, also known as limestone. Pour half of the lime into a garden spreader and start in 1 corner of your lawn. Walk the spreader back and forth across your lawn horizontally until it's empty. Fill the spreader with the other half of lime before walking it in the opposite direction.[5]
- You can buy lime from your local garden store.
- Lime will not kill moss by itself, but it will help prevent it.
- Applying lime to your lawn works best after you aerate it.
[Edit]Killing Moss on Walls or Pavement - Use a sharp knife to cut out moss from cracks in pavement or walls. Guide the blade of the knife into the crack with moss in it. Apply a small amount of pressure as you drag the knife down the length of the crack and force the moss out. Work in short strokes and run the knife through the area again if you aren't able to remove all of the moss the first time.[6]
- This works well for removing moss from driveways, sidewalks, and pavers.
- The knife could easily slip out of the crack if you apply too much pressure.
- Be careful not to cut yourself while you're working.
- Spray a vinegar or bleach solution on moss to help break it apart. Combine 1 part of white vinegar or chlorine bleach with 4 parts warm water in a garden pump sprayer. Stir the solution together so it's thoroughly mixed. Aim the tip of the hose nozzle at the moss that you want to remove and pump the sprayer handle 3–4 times to build up pressure. Pull the trigger to spread a thin mist of the solution on the moss. The moss will start breaking down and die within the next 2–3 weeks.[7]
- A vinegar or bleach solution also works to prevent moss from growing back on the surface.
- This works well if you want to remove moss from bricks, walls, pavers, or concrete.
- Scrape moss off with a stiff-bristled brush to clean small areas. Wet the area you're scrubbing with water from your hose or a moss-killing solution so the moss falls off better. Apply a firm amount of pressure as you work the brush in multiple directions over the mossy area. Throw away or compost any of the moss you're able to remove so it doesn't grow again.[8]
- You can use your brush on textured or flat surfaces without causing any damage.
- Use a pressure washer if you want to remove moss quickly. Pressure washers take water from your hose and shoot it out at high speeds to break apart stuck-on debris. Use the 15- or 25-degree nozzle tip so you're less likely to cause damage to the area. Keep the nozzle of the pressure washer at least away from the spot you're spraying and pull the trigger to shoot the water. Work in short back and forth strokes across the moss to remove it.[9]
- Wear safety glasses while you're working because pressure washers can easily kick up debris.
- Never aim a pressure washer at a living thing or something that can easily get damaged.
- Using a pressure washer may also remove dirt and grime on the surface and make it a different color. Clean the whole area with the pressure washer so the color looks uniform.
[Edit]Cleaning Moss off Your Roof - Spray water on the moss with a low-pressure hose to see if it breaks off. Screw a standard jet attachment to the end of your garden hose to use for moss removal. Climb a ladder up to your roof and spray the roofing material at a downward angle so you don't let water get underneath shingles and tear them up. Focus on large clumps of moss while you're cleaning since they'll break off the easiest.[10]
- Don't use a pressure washer to remove moss from shingles since you could damage them.
- Scrub your roof with a brush while it's wet to clean stuck-on moss. Get a long-handled brush that has stiff bristles so it can scrape the moss off of your roof without damaging the surface. Climb onto your roof at the peak so you can work down from the top. Focus on a area at a time and apply firm pressure to the brush as you scrub in downward strokes. Continue working down your roof until you remove as much moss as you can.[11]
- Be extremely cautious walking on your roof since the water can make it very slippery. Use a safety harness attached to the roof ridge if you need to.
- If you don't feel comfortable cleaning moss off of your roof, hire a professional roofing service to clean it for you.
- Spray a bleach and water solution on the moss for the most effective treatment. Fill a garden sprayer with equal parts of chlorine bleach and warm water before stirring it together. Climb onto your roof and spray the solution onto the mossy areas of your roof. Once you apply an even coat, leave the solution on the moss for 15–20 minutes before rinsing it off with your garden hose. Some moss will break off immediately while other parts may take 2–3 weeks to fall off.[12]
- Bleach can kill other plants and discolor pavement or siding, so cover the area underneath your roof with plastic sheeting to help protect it.
- You can scrub your roof with a cleaning brush after you rinse off the solution to help remove more moss. of white vinegar and of warm water for your cleaning solution.[13]}}
- Install strips of zinc or copper along the roof ride to kill moss in the future. Zinc and copper are toxic to moss, so rainwater that runs over the metal will prevent any spores from growing on your roof. Cut the metal into strips that are wide and about long using a metal cutting blade on a saw. Place the strips right underneath the ridge on the peak of your roof and secure them with roofing nails every .[14]
- You can buy sheet metal from hardware stores. Ask the employees to cut the strips to size for you if you don't have any tools at home.
- You may also tuck the strip underneath the first row of shingles so only extend out if you don't want large pieces of exposed metal.
- If you need to put in new roofing material, look for shingles that have copper particles built into them since they can prevent moss growth.
- Prune overhanging tree limbs to prevent moss from forming again. Moss grows the best in shady areas from tree branches and limbs. Look at your roof at different times throughout the day to see when it gets shade and what branches are causing it. For small limbs, use a tree saw to cut the branches as close to the base as possible so they don't grow back as easily. If you have large, heavy limbs, contact a professional service to remove them for you.[15]
- Don't attempt to remove large branches on your own since they could damage your roof or cause serious injury when they fall.
- Moss killing formulas are different for lawn and roof treatments. Make sure you choose the appropriate solution for where you're removing moss.
[Edit]Warnings - Keep pets and children out of areas that you've treated with iron sulfate since it can be toxic if ingested.
- Don't use pressure washers on your roof since it could damage the material.
- Use caution when you climb a ladder or get on your roof since you could easily fall.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Removing Moss from Your Lawn - Rake
- Iron sulfate
- Lime
- Aerator
[Edit]Killing Moss on Walls or Pavement - Knife
- Garden sprayer
- White vinegar
- Chlorine bleach
- Stiff-bristled brush
- Garden hose
- Pressure washer
[Edit]Cleaning Moss off Your Roof - Ladder
- Garden hose
- Long-handled brush
- Garden sprayer
- Tree saw
- Copper or zinc sheet metal
- Hammer
- Roofing nails
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Use a Whitening Pen Posted: 04 Feb 2020 04:00 PM PST Despite what magazines and movies might lead you to believe, countless people deal with yellow teeth on a daily basis. While laser-whitening treatments and other professional procedures are expensive and inaccessible to many people, whitening pens offer an affordable option to those looking to brighten their teeth at home. After choosing the right product and cleaning your teeth ahead of time, you're ready to apply the whitening pen to the surface of your teeth. Keep using this tool for at least a week to see if you notice any changes! [Edit]Prepping Your Teeth - Select a whitening product that is convenient for you. Familiarize yourself with ingredients that are in different whitening pens. While almost all products include peroxide, note that other pens require you to use teeth trays to set the whitening agent in place. Try choosing a product that best fits into your routine.[1]
- Although they're known to work slower than whitening pens, whitening strips are also an affordable option.
- Brush your teeth to ensure that they're clean. Take 2 minutes to fully clean your teeth before applying any whitening product. Take extra care to brush the front surface of your teeth, as this is where the whitening pen will go. To develop a consistent routine, choose to use your whitening pen in the morning or evening so you can apply it right after you brush your teeth.[2]
- Floss your teeth to clean them more thoroughly. Make sure that your teeth are completely clean when you go to apply the whitening product. Use a strand of floss that's long enough to wrap around both index fingers several times, creating a straight length of floss that's at least long. Work your way between all of your teeth, prioritizing the gum line as you go.[3]
- If you don't want to use regular floss, try using plastic flossers instead.
[Edit]Applying the Product - Open your mouth with your lips stretched away from your teeth. Spread your lips apart into a toothy smile with both your upper and lower teeth visible, as well as your gum lines. Hold this position whenever you use the whitening pen, as you don't want your lips to move the product around.[4]
- Whenever you whiten your teeth, be sure to work in front of a mirror.
- Brush on the product in short, vertical strokes along the surface of each tooth. Remove or unscrew the cap from the whitening pen to access the brush portion. Don't worry about adding any product to the tip, as the bristle will already be coated in whitening formula. Apply the whitening product in short, vertical strokes, working from the top of the tooth to the bottom. Aim to paint over each tooth 3-5 times with the applicator.[5]
- Twist the pen if the tip doesn't seem to have any product on it.[6]
- Hold your mouth in place for 1 minute to set the product. Keep your lips pulled back and teeth visible for 1 minute after you finish applying the pen. Set a timer or count to 60 while you keep your mouth in this position. Try not to relax your mouth until you've waited for this amount of time.[7]
- As you wait, try to avoid swallowing the serum.
- Rinse out the whitening product with warm water. Spit out as much of the whitening agent as you can, then swish some warm water around your teeth to dislodge any excess product. Continue spitting until there's no longer any whitener on your teeth.[8]
- If you think you're able to spit out all of the product, don't worry about swishing or gargling.
- Keep applying the product daily for at least 1 week. Read the instructions on your specific whitening pen to figure out when you'll start seeing results. Continue using the pen once a day, directly after you brush and floss your teeth.[9] When you're not using the pen, keep it stored in a cool, dry place.[10]
- Some products might not show results right away. Be patient, and continue using the pen for several weeks before deciding if it works or not.[11]
[Edit]Warnings - If you have a history of dental issues (e.g., gum disease), don't use whitening pens.[12]
- Don't use whitening pens if your teeth hurt after you apply the product.[13]
[Edit]References |
How to Maintain Hardwood Floors Posted: 04 Feb 2020 08:00 AM PST Wood floors made out of hardwoods such as oak, walnut, hickory, maple, or cherry are both durable and beautiful. But, in order to keep them looking fresh, you need to maintain your hardwood floors. Fortunately, keeping them clean and taking care of them is easy to do and will increase their lifespan. However, every 3-5 years, you'll need to refinish your hardwood floors to keep them bright and polished. [Edit]Keeping Hardwood Floors Clean - Sweep the floors every day with a soft-bristled broom. Regularly sweeping your hardwood floors will reduce dirt and grit buildup, which can scratch the surface of the wood. Take a soft-bristled broom to your floors and sweep up any dust or dirt from the surface, particularly from high-traffic areas such as the entrance to a room or a hallway.[1]
- Only use a soft-bristled mop so you don't scratch the surface of the wood.
- Vacuum weekly with a floor nozzle to pick up dust and dirt. Use a floor-brush attachment to suck up dirt and debris from the surface of the hardwood floor without damaging it. Reach into the corners or crevices to pick up any dust or dirt that your sweeping missed.[2]
- Avoid using a vacuum with brush rolls or one designed for carpets as they can scratch and damage your hardwood floors.
- Dust the floor with a disposable dusting cloth for a quick clean. Disposable dusting mops have a mild electrostatic charge that allows them to pick up more dust, hair, and dirt from your wood floors than sweeping and vacuuming. Run the cloth over the surface of your floors to dust them and be sure to reach into the nooks and crannies where dust likes to hide.[3]
- You can also use a dry mop with a microfiber head to pick up dust and grime.
- Disposable dusting cloths are quick and easy to use, and you can throw them away when you're finished.
- Look for disposable dusting cloths at department stores or online. Popular brands include Swiffer and Bona.
- Mop the floors monthly with a wood floor mop and cleaner. For a deeper cleaning, use a wood floor mop with microfiber pads or strings and wood floor cleaner, which won't strip or strain your hardwood. Dilute the wood floor cleaner in water in a bucket according to the instructions on the label. Dip the wood floor mop into the solution, wring out the excess water, and run the mop over the hardwood following the direction of the grain in the wood. Allow the floor to air dry fully before you walk over it.[4]
- Work in sections so you don't miss any spots and start at a far corner so you don't box yourself into a room or hallway.
- Be sure to thoroughly wring out the mop so you don't leave excess water on the surface of your hardwood floors, which could discolor or damage them.
- You can find wood floor mops and wood floor cleaner at home improvement stores, department stores, and online.
- Wipe up spills and messes immediately with a damp cloth. Keep sticky residue from forming by wiping up any messes from your floor as soon as possible. Soak a clean cloth in warm water and wring it out well to remove the excess. Rub the mess up using gentle, circular motions to avoid damaging the wood.[5]
- For stubborn messes, spray a little bit of wood-floor cleaner onto it and use a damp cloth to wipe it off. You can find wood-floor cleaner at home improvement stores, department stores, and online.
- Don't allow moisture to sit on top of your wood floor or it could damage it.
[Edit]Preventing Wear and Tear - Don't wear shoes on your hardwood floors. Shoes can scuff hardwood and cause wear and tear over time. Be extra careful about wearing cleats or shoes with heels on your hardwood floors since they can potentially damage them.[6]
- Oils from your bare feet can actually degrade hardwood over time. Your safest bet is to only wear socks when walking on your floors.
- Attach felt pads to your furniture legs and edges to avoid scratches. Place felt furniture pads on all of the furniture on top of your hardwood floors so they don't scratch the surface. Add felt pads to any areas that contact the floor such as the edges or corners of sofas.[7]
- You can find felt pads at department stores and online.
- Trim the nails of any pets walking over the floors. Cat and dog claws can scratch the surface of hardwood floors and damage them over time. If you have pets that walk over your hardwood floors, keep their nails trimmed.[8]
- Dogs can sometimes collect dirt and gravel between their paws that can scratch your hardwood floors as well, so be sure to check them before you let them back into the house.
- Generally, most dogs need to have their nails trimmed every 1-2 months, depending how fast they grow. Trim your cat's nails every 2 weeks.
- Use protective window covers to reduce direct sunlight. The UV radiation in sunlight can damage hardwood floors, causing them to warp and fade over time. Install protective window coverings such as blinds and curtains, or keep the shades drawn over areas of the floor that receive direct exposure to keep them from being exposed.[9]
- You can also place a rug over the floor to cover it from direct exposure to sunlight.
- Rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. Hardwood floors will slowly degrade as they age, but you can keep their appearance looking uniform and even by moving around the furniture and rugs in the room. Every 6 months or so, rearrange the items on top of the floor to redirect foot traffic and allow other areas of the floor to age and match the rest of the floor.[10]
- Use the opportunity to clean your hardwood floors whenever you rearrange your furniture so dirt and grit don't damage the surface.
- Refinish your hardwood floors every 3-5 years. Refinishing your hardwood floors with a new coat will restore their shine that fades after natural wear and tear. It will also add a protective layer to keep them from getting scratched or faded. Depending on how much use your floors receive, you'll need to refinish them every 3 years or so.[11]
- Rooms with hardwood floors that receive little traffic, such as guest bedrooms or dining rooms, may need to be refinished every 5 or 6 years, depending on how dull they appear.
[Edit]References |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário