| How to Water Orchids Posted: 12 May 2020 01:00 AM PDT Orchids are popular as houseplants, and wonderful varieties can be found in nurseries and garden centers. In the wild, orchids grow on trees, and their roots are exposed to sun and air and water. Potted orchids require special watering that mimics their natural environment. Water orchids sparingly, when their soil is almost dry. [Edit]Deciding When to Water - Water sparingly. No orchid variety needs to be watered every day. In fact, overwatering can cause an orchid's roots to rot and eventually die.[1] Unlike many houseplants, orchids should only be watered when they begin to dry out. Watering only when they're almost dry mimics an orchid's natural environment.
- Some orchids have water-storing organs, and some do not. If you have a type of orchid that has the ability to store water, such as cattleyas or oncidiums, you should allow the orchid to completely dry out before watering. If you have a type of orchid that does not have water-storing organs, such as phalaenopsis or paphiopedilums, you should water the orchid before it is entirely dry.
- If you're not sure what type of orchid you have, plan to water the orchid when it is almost dry, but still has just a bit of moisture left.
- Consider your climate. The frequency with which you water orchids is affected by the level of humidity in your climate, as well as the amount of sun the orchid gets and the temperature of the air. Since these factors vary according to region and household, there's no rule for how often to water an orchid. You'll have to develop a routine catered to your specific environment.
- If the temperature is cool in your home, your orchid will need to be watered less frequently than when the temperature is warm.
- If the orchid is in a sunny window, it will need to be watered more frequently than if you place it in a shadier spot.
- See if the potting mix looks dry. This is the first indication that it might be time to water the orchid. Orchid potting mix is usually composed of bark or moss, and if it looks dry and dusty, it might be time to water. However, just looking at the potting mix won't give you an accurate enough indication as to whether it's time to water.
- Lift the pot to check its weight. The pot will feel lighter when it's time to water the orchid. If it's heavy, that means there's still water in the pot. Over time, you'll get a sense of how heavy the pot feels when the orchid needs water versus how heavy it feels when it still has moisture inside.
- A pot that still contains moisture might look different, too. If your orchid is in a clay pot, it will look darker when it's still wet. If it's light in color, it might be time for a watering.
- Do a finger test. This is the best way to determine whether an orchid needs more water. Stick your pinky finger into the potting mix, taking care not to disturb the orchid's roots. If you don't feel any moisture, or you feel just a little, it's time to water the orchid. If you feel moist potting mix right away, give it more time. When in doubt, you should wait an extra day.
[Edit]Watering Correctly - Make sure the pot has drainage holes. You can't properly water an orchid unless it has holes through which the water can drain. Water sitting in the pot will cause the roots to rot, so it needs to be able to drain through the bottom. If you bought an orchid that came in an ornamental pot without holes, repot the orchid in one with adequate holes in the bottom. Use an orchid potting mix instead of regular potting soil.
- Look for special pots designed for growing orchids. These pots are usually made out of terracotta clay and have extra drainage holes in the sides. You should be able to find them in the same section as other planters.
- If you just want a quick way to water your orchid without having to transplant the orchid, you can use the ice cube method. Put the equivalent of 1/4 cup (59 ml) of frozen water (usually about three medium ice cubes) on top of the potting mix. Make sure that the ice never comes in contact with the orchid itself - it should only touch the soil. Let the ice cubes melt into the pot. Wait about a week before you do it again. This method is not optimal for the long-term health of the orchid, so only use it as a temporary solution.[2]
- Run the orchid under water. The easiest way to water an orchid is to hold it under a faucet and run it under room temperature water. If you have an attachment that allows you to diffuse the water, rather than just running it in one strong stream, that's better for the orchid. Water the orchid this way for a full minute, allowing the water to seep through the pot and come out the holes in the bottom.[3]
- Do not use water that has been softened or treated with harsh chemicals. If you have a special orchid species, see if you can use distilled water or rainwater.
- The water should pour rapidly through the pot. If it seems to be getting stuck in the pot, the potting mix you're using might be too dense.
- After watering the orchid, check the weight of the pot so you'll be able to tell the difference when the pot gets lighter and the orchid is ready to be watered again.
- Water in the morning or afternoon. That way the excess water will have plenty of time to evaporate before it gets dark. If water sits on the plant overnight, it can cause rotting to occur or leave the plant prone to diseases.
- If you see excess water sitting on the leaves, wipe it off with a paper towel.
- A few minutes after watering, check the saucer and empty it out so no water sits near the orchid.
- Mist your orchid. Since orchids thrive in humidity, misting your orchid is a great way to keep it healthy, especially since it prevents the roots from drying out. Fill a spray bottle with water, then spritz the plant a few times a day. How often you mist the orchid depends on the environment where you live. Drier environments will require more misting, while damp climates may require misting daily.[4]
- If you don't know if your orchid needs another mist, check to see if it feels dry.
- Don't let water collect on the leaves.
- You can find a spray bottle in most department stores or online.
- When an orchid is blooming or putting out lots of new leaves and roots, it will use more water.
- Orchid medium is coarse and porous allowing for good airflow to the orchid roots but still allowing them to retain some moisture. The easiest way to get a good orchid medium is to buy it pre-mixed from a good nursery.
- When an orchid is resting between bloom periods, it will use less water. This is generally late fall and early to mid-winter, depending on the species.
- A larger plant will require more water than a smaller plant in the same sized pot.
- Cool temperatures and low light will cause an orchid to need less water.
- In very humid conditions orchids need less water. In very dry conditions they will need more. Humidity levels of 50 to 60% are ideal.
- Look after them carefully
- If you live in a dry and sunny region, your orchids will need more frequent watering.
[Edit]Warnings - An orchid will die quickly in a pot submerged in water.
- If you use water-soluble fertilizers, salts may build up on the medium or the pot and eventually harm the orchid. Do not use fertilizer with every watering.
- If you pour water over flowers of an orchid small spots of mold will appear on the flowers. This doesn't harm the orchid but it spoils it's looks.
- An orchid whose leaves look wilted or limp can be suffering from either too much water, which rots the roots and makes water unavailable to the leaves, or it can be too dry. Check by touching the medium before watering.
- Don't let water collect on the leaves of your orchid because it could cause bacterial growth and rot.[5]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Remove a Ring with a String Posted: 11 May 2020 05:00 PM PDT If your ring is stuck on your finger, don't panic! There are several techniques you can try to remove it. To use the string technique, wrap a thin piece of thread or dental floss tightly around your finger, starting at your middle knuckle and working your way to the edge of the ring. Slip the end of the thread under the ring, pull it taut, and start unwinding it in the same direction to slowly pry off the ring. If that doesn't work, try icing your finger to reduce swelling or applying a lubricant like cooking oil. [Edit]Wrapping the Finger with Thread or Floss - Select a thin piece of thread or dental floss for the job. Thin thread or dental floss will slide more easily underneath a stuck ring. The waxy surface of dental floss can make it even more useful in this situation. If you choose to use thread, make sure it's thin but strong.[1]
- If you only have access to thicker string, like a shoelace, go ahead and try it!
- Position 1 end of the thread at your middle knuckle above the ring. Use your free hand to place the end of the thread or floss at the knuckle on the fingertip side of your finger. Wind the string around your knuckle once to get the wrapping process started.[2]
- If you're working by yourself, you may need to briefly hold the string in place by squeezing the fingers on the affected hand tightly together.
- Wrap the thread around your finger from the knuckle to the ring's edge. The idea is to compress your skin close to the ring, so wind the thread tightly around your finger. Keep wrapping it around as you slowly move toward the ring. Make sure each wrap is directly next to the previous wrap. Stop wrapping once you reach the edge of the ring.[3]
- You shouldn't be able to see any flesh under or between the thread from your knuckle to the ring.
- Slip the end of the string under the ring and pull it up on the other side. Now that your finger skin is compressed, you should be able to wedge the end of the thread under the ring and pass it through to the other side. Pull the thread up and toward your middle knuckle.[4]
- Unwrap the thread from this position to slowly to remove the ring. Pull the thread taut toward your knuckle and start unwinding the string. Each time you unwind 1 of the layers, the ring will move a little farther up the compressed skin of your finger. Keep unwinding the thread until you reach the starting point at your knuckle.[5]
- It can help to gently nudge the ring with your free hand to help it along as you unwind the thread.[6]
- Pull the loosened ring completely off your finger. After unwinding the thread, you should be able to pull the ring completely off your finger. If the ring is still stuck, you may want to try another removal technique or seek emergency assistance.[7]
[Edit]Using Other Removal Techniques - Elevate and ice the affected finger for 5-10 minutes to reduce swelling. Lift up your hand so the blood drains out of the affected area. Then, hold an ice pack to the finger for 5-10 minutes to help reduce the swelling around the ring. After 10 minutes, relax your hand and try to pull off the ring with your free hand.[8]
- Don't try to force it! This could cause additional swelling. If the ring won't come off at this point, try another technique.
- Cut the ring off your finger with a ring cutter. You can get a ring cutter from a jewelry store, fire department, or emergency room. It's best to let a professional cut the ring off your finger so that you don't injure yourself. Keep in mind that the ring will be damaged if you cut through it.[9]
- Ask a jeweler if the metal can be welded to repair the band once you get it off.
- Apply soapy water or olive oil and twist the ring as you pull it. Cover the skin around and underneath the ring with warm, soapy water or olive oil. Once the area is saturated, use your free hand to twist the ring clockwise and counterclockwise to loosen it up. Then, keep twisting as you gently try to pry the ring off.[10]
- You can use any oil you have on hand for this. For example, baby oil, vegetable oil, and jojoba oil are all good lubricants.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Wrapping the Finger with Thread or Floss - Thin thread or waxy dental floss
[Edit]Using Other Removal Techniques - Ice
- Soapy water or cooking oil
- Ring cutter
[Edit]References |
| How to Fix Dough That Won't Rise Posted: 11 May 2020 09:00 AM PDT You have it all planned: the dinner, the wine, that fresh-baked loaf of bread, along with those amazing barbecue ribs, straight from the chicken factory. Everything is coming together when you discover that your bread dough just isn't rising. This is a common problem for many home bakers: you go to a lot of effort to make a nice shaped loaf, but your yeast appears to have gone on vacation. Fortunately, it's a problem that's relatively easy to diagnose and solve. Keep reading for instructions on how to get your yeast partying again. [Edit]Repairing The Dough - Turn up the temperature. Yeast loves nothing better than a warm, moist climate to live its yeasty life to the fullest.[1] If you want your dough to rise, you need to give the yeast what it wants.
- Fill a baking pan with boiling water, and set it on the lowest rack in your oven. Place the container of dough on the middle rack, and close the oven door and allow the dough to rise.
- Alternately, you can boil a cup of water in the microwave, then place the container of dough in the microwave with the water, and close the door. (Don't microwave the dough!)
- Some people turn on the oven, and place the dough on top of the stove, covered with a damp towel. The oven keeps the surface of the stove warm, and the damp towel provides the moisture.
- Add more yeast. If warm and moist isn't activating the yeast (you'll know in less than an hour), you can try adding more yeast.[2]
- Open a new package of yeast, and mix a teaspoon of yeast with 1 cup (240ml) of warm water (at about 110°F/43°C) and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Let this mixture proof for about 10 minutes, until it gets 1/2- to 1-inch of foam. If this fails, you will need to get fresh yeast and try again.
- While proofing this yeast mixture, gently warm the flat dough to about 100°F (38°C) by placing the bowl in a warm place.
- Blend in the starter. Adding more flour as necessary: a ratio of 60% flour to 40% liquid is usually a good ratio for bread doughs so add sufficient flour needed to balance. Knead the active yeast mixture into the dough, then let it rise in a warm, moist place.
- This can also be an indicator to see if your yeast is not active. This method makes the yeast very active so when it is added to the dough, it should rise perfectly. If your dough still fails to rise, it will indicate the yeast is not at fault: there is another problem.
- You can also do this at the beginning of the recipe next time you make a different yeast dough.
- Knead in more flour. Check whether the dough is sticky to the touch. If so, this is probably under-kneaded dough. Knead in additional flour until smooth and silky to the touch and dough no longer sticks to your hand. Let rest and rise in a warm wet environment. Repeat if needed. You may need to let the dough rest overnight before shaping and baking.
- Knead the dough properly. There's an art to kneading. Too little, and you may not distribute the yeast through the dough. The dough will then be too weak to be able to rise. Too much kneading may make the dough so tough that it cannot expand. The dough should feel smooth and elastic, not tight like a rubber ball, or soft like biscuit dough.
[Edit]Troubleshooting Dough Problems - Find the problem. Consider several of the following points to do some preliminary diagnosis. It may be that a simple correction to the environment can fix the problem with no further effort.
- Check the dough and yeast type. Some sourdough cultures are very slow rising and may need several hours to rise. A
- Make sure the yeast is still within its expiration date. Powdered yeast in packets last a long time, as does storing jars of dry yeast in the freezer. However, both fresh and dried yeast has a lifespan after which they will function weakly, or not at all.[3]
- Check the environment. The ideal temperature is approx 100°F (38°C) and high humidity. Move too far out of that range, and your yeast will not be happy.
- Check the flour types. Breads made with cake or all-purpose flour, have low gluten[4] and protein contents, so your dough may rise—and then collapse.
- This can also happen if you have a dough that has too high a ratio of water to flour.
- Some flours contain antifungal ingredients to prolong shelf life. As yeast is a proud member of the Fungi kingdom, this will most definitely inhibit growth.
- Organic, additive-free unbleached white bread flour works best for a good loaf of white bread.
- Heavier flours such as whole wheat, rye and other types of whole-grain flour will result in a heavy loaf that does not rise as much as fine white bread flour.[5]
- Let the dough rest. Do not disturb the dough while it is rising, especially if it is a particularly wet dough.
- Use the proper container. The pan, banneton, or tray you use will make a difference. Too large, and the dough has nothing to push against when rising, so won't rise upwards. Instead, it will spread and possibly collapse.[6]
- Small buns do well placed fairly close together.
- Check your ingredients. Some spices, such as cinnamon, are naturally anti-fungal.
- For sweet fruit buns or cinnamon rolls, you usually want a fast rise, as the cinnamon will eventually kill the yeast off.
- Some dried fruits also are coated with antifungals as a preservative. Organic dried fruits are expensive but much better for baking. What many bakers do is use standard dried fruit but don't add it till the final proofing.
- Ease up on the salt. Salt is a required ingredient for developing the gluten proteins that make for a smooth elastic dough, but too much will kill the yeast. Add only the required amount, and add it to the flour, not the water, at the beginning.
- Check the ratio of flour to water. 60:40 flour -to-water is best. Too wet might work fine but it is more likely to spread flat, or rinse well and then collapse.
- Failed bread dough can be recycled into batters, pastries and other baked products without entirely wasting it. In that case, you would rely on a non-yeast aeration product such as baking powder, bicarb and citric acid, beer, lemonade, soda water, or layering butter as per puff pastry.
- Test your water and flour periodically. The pH can be an issue: if it's too high, or too low, it will kill the yeast. Test a sample of water alone, and a sample with neutral water mixed with flour in one sample and some of the flour mixed with neutral water and then test with baking soda (for acidity), or vinegar (for alkalinity). If the liquid foams slightly, it means that the pH is unbalanced. If there's no foam, your pH is fine. Note: you can also purchase a pH testing kit at your local pool supply store.
- Ensure the oven is preheated at least 5 minutes before you need it. Using a pizza stone can also aid heat transfer to the tray or in the loaf is sitting on, or you can put the loaf directly on the hot stone. A lot of bread fails in a cold start oven.
- The big problem with slow rises for bread is the dough is kneaded to activate gluten and proteins to form a smooth elastic dough. Over time, this relaxes so the dough becomes weak and the bubbles inside it collapse. It's a timing trick to develop and look into to see if your dough weakens before the yeast is ready. You can improve the dough by adding extra gluten or bread improvers, but for gluten-free bread, it is not easily fixed and is simply part of the bread you will have to expect. When you want a fine dough, such as sweet buns or yeast pastries, a slow prove is ideal so it does not have very large bubbles - this is sometimes even done in the fridge overnight.
[Edit]Warnings - Fixing yeast pastries can be very difficult in some cases, especially if layered with butter like puff pastries for yeast croissants. If you were to re-knead them, you will create a brioche-style dough which can be fine—but if you want that flaky characteristic, you will need to start again.
- Should all repair attempts fail, you may need to change ingredients entirely and start again.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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