| How to Preserve Driftwood Posted: 27 May 2020 01:00 AM PDT There's something so elegant and beautiful about driftwood. It spends days, months, or even years just floating around in the water before washing up on the shore with this beautiful texture and grain. It's no wonder that natural driftwood is such a popular choice for sculpting, woodworking, and painting. You can even use a raw piece of driftwood as an accent piece on the wall or as a unique centerpiece. Preserving driftwood isn't particularly difficult, but it does take some time and patience. You can either clean and bleach it to preserve it in its natural state, or go the extra step to seal it in oil, resin, or varnish to preserve it in a protective coating. [Edit]Cleaning and Prepping the Wood - Remove any weakened branches or cracked pieces if you want to clean it up. How you prep your driftwood for preservation depends on what you're using the driftwood for. If you want to clean the driftwood up, remove any weakened pieces of the driftwood. Either put on gloves and remove the pieces by hand, or use a chisel or scraping tool to break off the sections you want to remove.[1]
- You may want to do this if you're preserving a single piece of natural driftwood or don't want any weak chunks of wood snapping off when you're sculpting it.
- Sand the wood if you want to smooth your piece out. To smooth the wood out, grab a sheet of 180- to 300-grit sandpaper. Put on a set of thick work gloves. You can sand the surface of the wood by hand, or use an orbital sander to remove the exterior layer of wood. This will give your driftwood a smooth, soft texture.[2]
- The amount of pressure you use when sanding is totally up to you. The harder you press the sandpaper into the wood, the smoother the finish will be. Some people prefer the look of rougher driftwood, though.
- Don't forget the other side of the wood. If you're sanding one side of the wood, you should sand the other side as well to make it consistent.
- Knock the dirt, sawdust, and residue off with a brush and air compressor. Take your driftwood outside and grab a stiff-bristled brush. Scrub the wood with the dry brush to knock off any dust, dirt, or weak layers of wood. Use an air compressor to blow the wood dust and debris off. The more dirt, sand, and debris you can knock off, the more effective the bleaching process will be.[3]
- You can use some canned air instead of the compressor if you don't have one.
- Make sure that you scrub and blow air on the opposite side of the wood, too!
[Edit]Bleaching and Drying the Wood - Place the driftwood in a plastic bin big enough to submerge it. Get a plastic trash can or storage bin that is big enough to hold your chunk of driftwood. You're going to fill this bin with water and bleach, so make sure that you have at least of space at the top. Gently set the driftwood in the bottom.[4]
- Do this outside if possible. The bleach fumes can be obnoxious and you'll soak your wood for a few hours. If it may rain, wait for a clear, sunny day to do this.
- Submerge the driftwood in a solution of bleach and water. If you want to dye the driftwood white, fill your bin with a solution of 9-parts water and 1-part bleach.[5] If you want to preserve the original color and grain, use of bleach for every of water instead. Fill the bin with enough of your bleach solution to completely submerge the driftwood.[6]
- Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water if you get any bleach on your skin.
- Place a heavy tile or brick on top of the driftwood if it floats. Driftwood tends to be buoyant and it may float to the surface of the bin if you don't have a particularly heavy piece of wood. If this happens, place a ceramic tile, brick, or some other heavy object on top of the driftwood. The entire piece of wood must be submerged for this process to work.[7]
- Let the driftwood soak for at least 6 hours to kill the bugs and bacteria. Let the bin sit out in the open air for at least 6 hours. This should be more than enough time to remove the bacteria and pests living in the wood. However, if you want to dye the wood white, leave wood in the bleach and water for as long as it takes to change color. If you have to let it soak for more a day, change the bleach and water solution out after 24 hours.[8]
- The longer you leave the wood, you whiter it will turn. You'll get diminishing returns after 3-4 days, though.
- The younger the wood is, the longer it takes to change color. You may need to keep the wood submerged for 2-3 days to dye it white.
- Let the driftwood air dry for 24 hours before rinsing them off. Put on a pair of nitrile gloves and carefully lift the wood out of the solution. If it's a bigger piece, pour the water and bleach out into a dirt patch or large sink to retrieve the wood. Pull the wood out and let it sit on the driveway, sidewalk, or some other solid surface. Let it rest in the sun for at least 24 hours before rinsing the wood thoroughly with a hose.[9]
- This will give the bleach time to dissipate into the wood, which will preserve it for longer.
- When rinsing the wood, you can use cold or warm water. Either way, be sure to really soak the wood. It's key to washing off any bleach residue that sticks to the external surface, which you don't want.
- Dry the driftwood for 15-30 days in the sun to fully let it cure. After you're finished rinsing the wood, let it sit out in the sun for at least 15 days. This will give the moisture trapped inside of the wood time to completely dissipate. On days when it may rain or snow, take your wood inside and let it dry in the garage, basement, or the corner of some unused room.[10]
- You can stop here if you'd like. Driftwood that has been cleaned and bleached should hold up just fine for years before it starts to flake or fall apart.
[Edit]Sealing Your Driftwood - Finish your wood after you've done any optional woodworking or painting. If you're using your driftwood for an art project or sculpture, go ahead and do your work now. Sealing the wood in an epoxy resin will preserve anything underneath it, so you need to complete that fun woodworking or art project before first before doing this.[11]
- You don't need to do anything to the wood if you don't want to. Many people enjoy using raw pieces of driftwood as a centerpiece on a table or as an accent piece on a bare wall.
- Put on some nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Regardless of the finish that you choose, it's best to keep your hands clean while you work. This is particularly important if you're using an epoxy resin to finish the driftwood, since it's usually spread out by hand.[12]
- These finishes aren't toxic, but you can put a dust mask on if you tend to be bothered by the smell of chemicals.
- Use a 2-part epoxy resin if you want a thicker, stronger finish. Mix the 2 epoxies together in a plastic bowl or cup. Tilt your bowl or cup over any end of the driftwood to pour out a thin bead of the epoxy. Move the bowl or cup toward the other end of the wood to spread a thick bead over the surface. Either spread the epoxy out by hand or use a brush to move it over the wood until you've applied a thin layer of resin.[13]
- Let the resin dry for at least 72 hours to fully cure to the wood.
- The thicker the epoxy layer is, the more plastic and reflective your wood will look. Some people really like this look, while others prefer to keep the wood looking as natural as possible.
- The driftwood should last for decades. Epoxy resin is actually what builders use to repair antique wood in historic homes, so there's plenty of evidence that your wood will hold up just fine over time.[14]
- Opt for a wood varnish or stain to change the color of the wood. Any varnish or stain that you can use on other types of wood can be applied to driftwood. Varnish tends to leave a slicker finish behind while stains will actively change the color of the wood. Get a varnish or stain and follow the manufacturer's instructions to apply it to your wood. Typically, this is done by applying 2-3 layers of the liquid with a paint brush.[15]
- Wait 48 hours for the wood to completely dry after applying a varnish or stain.
- Driftwood is extremely porous—even more so than other varieties of wood. It may take multiple layers of a thinner varnish or stain to actually see the layer on the surface of the wood.
- Using a varnish or stain will protect the driftwood from surface scratches and minor wear and tear.
- Choose a furniture oil or liquid wood wax to preserve the natural appearance. Furniture oil will leave a thinner texture on the wood, while wood wax will build up on the surface and harden. Use either of these options to maintain the natural grain and color of the wood. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the label to apply a wax or oil. Typically, you use a brush to apply thin layers and build them up on the surface as needed.[16]
- Wait 48-72 hours after applying a furniture or wax to give the wood time to dry.
[Edit]Warnings - Bleach is a skin irritant. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water if it gets on your skin. Keep your eyes away from the bleach when you're pouring or mixing it, since it can impair your vision or cause blindness.[17]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Cleaning and Prepping the Wood - Brush
- Compressed air
- Gloves
- Chisel (optional)
- Sandpaper (optional)
- Orbital sander (optional)
[Edit]Bleaching and Drying the Wood - Water
- Plastic bin
- Bleach
- Nitrile gloves
[Edit]Sealing Your Driftwood - Plastic sheet or trash bag
- Nitrile gloves
- Brush
- Wood finish
- Water
[Edit]References |
| How to Get a Proper Tan Posted: 26 May 2020 05:00 PM PDT Is summer fast approaching, and you want to be bronzed not blanched in your tank tops and short shorts? Or perhaps it's the middle of January, but you want to be lightly tanned for your wedding? Whatever the reason, having a great tan makes you feel good and look vibrant and healthy. But it's important to also get a tan as safely as possible --UV rays from natural and artificial light are damaging to our skin and can cause deadly cancer. Here you'll learn how to get a great tan outside and in tanning beds with an eye to reducing harm, and how to get that coveted glow – without the risk – by using self-tanners and getting spray tans. [Edit]Getting a Great Tan Outdoors - Increase your sun exposure gradually. First and foremost, when you begin laying out in the sun, only get 1-2 hours of exposure at a time. Skip a day or two before laying out again. Melanin, the pigment in your body that colors your skin, is activated when UVA and UVB rays from the sun hit your skin. When this happens, more melanin is produced as a form of sun block, or protection from sun damage. In this process your skin gets darker, producing a tan.[1]The melanin in your body is not in unlimited supply, however, and takes a couple of days to reproduce enough to protect you from getting burned. So, when developing your base tan, take it slowly, and don't tan every day.[2]
- Getting just one blistering sunburn while growing up doubles a person's chances of getting melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer. And a person's risk of melanoma also doubles by getting more than five normal sunburns throughout their life.[3]
- Typically, everyone reaches a plateau in his or her tanning. They simply don't get any darker.To maintain your tan, continue to regularly lay out and follow the steps discussed below.
- Exfoliate regularly while tanning. Exfoliating will remove dead skin, which blocks the sun's rays. It also reduces your skin's dryness, and dry skin doesn't soak up the sun well. When exfoliating, use a loofah, a sponge or a fine-grade exfoliating bar of soap and scrub lightly all over your body while in the shower or bath. Apply a moisturizer after you dry off.[4]
- Don't use harsh and abrasive exfoliators, or you'll end up rubbing off some of your tan or end up with splotches on your body.[5]
- Don't exfoliate after getting out of the sun. If you shower after going to the pool, for instance, exfoliate the next morning when you bathe.
- And don't exfoliate every day. Twice a week is sufficient. Much more will strip away natural oils, leaving your skin overly dry.[6]
- Use sunscreen. Applying sunscreen before stretching out on your beach towel might sound counterproductive, but using sunscreen will let you tan more gradually and, therefore, make your tan last longer. About 20-30 minutes before you get in the sun, apply a sunscreen of SPF 15-45 when you first start tanning. The SPF factor you use depends on your skin type, or how easily you burn.[7][8]
- Once you get a base tan, you can reduce your SPF factor but not below 10.
- If you plan to get in the water, make sure you use a water-proof sunscreen, or reapply it after you get out.
- Using sunscreen is also beneficial because it will keep you from burning, which can cause serious damage to your skin (not to mention cancer) and almost always results in peeling and flaking. If this happens, you have to start all over again.
- Don't forget to use a lip balm with sunscreen, too.
- Protect your eyes. When tanning outside, it's important to protect your eyes by wearing a hat or sunglasses with UV protection. Your eyes can get burned, too, causing serious and lasting damage.
- Switch positions when laying out. Flip from your front to your back regularly so you get an even tan.[9] When tanning your back, lay your arms palm-side up and vice versa. If it's the beginning of the summer and you're just starting to tan, you won't (or shouldn't) be out in the sun for more than two hours at a time. Remember, a gradual tan is a lasting tan. So, switch sides every 15-30 minutes. You'll also want to raise your arms above your head off and on to tan the undersides of your arms and your armpits.
- If you start to feel drowsy, it's time to get out of the sun. Or, if that's not possible, get in the shade to avoid sunburn.
- Moisturize at least once every day. Moisturizing your skin may be one of the most crucial elements of getting and extending the life of your tan because it keeps your skin from drying out, which is intensified by UV rays. Moisturize more than once per day, especially before you go to sleep and after showering. Apply a lighter moisturizer to the majority of your body during the day, and lather on a thick moisturizer before bed and on those body parts that move and bend a lot, such as your hands, elbows, ankles, knees and feet.[10][11]
- Carry a smaller bottle with you to reapply to these "problem" areas frequently throughout the day.
- If you're prone to acne on your face, use a moisturizer that is oil-free and says "noncomedogenic," meaning it won't clog your pores.[12]
- Stay hydrated. Here again, you want to avoid letting your skin become too dry so that it can absorb the sun's rays. It also helps your body get rid of toxins, which will make your skin healthier and help your tan stick around longer. One way to do this is by staying hydrated from the inside. Drink plenty of fluids every day, and increase your water intake if you feel excessively thirsty or if your urine is a dark yellow in color.[13][14]
- Regular moisturizing and drinking plenty of fluids is killing two birds with one stone when it comes to keeping your skin hydrated and tan-ready.
- Increase your blood circulation. Finally, another trick to getting a great tan is to work out before you lay out. Doing so increases your blood circulation, which then stimulates melanin production. So instead of driving to the public pool, jog or run there before diving right in.
- There are also "tingle" tanning lotions you can apply before tanning that claim to bring more oxygen to the surface of the skin, thereby increasing circulation and exciting melanin to darken your tan.[15]
[Edit]Bronzing in a Tanning Bed - Choose a good tanning salon. Tanning salons offer a variety of packages, specials, prices, products and use a variety of tanning beds, making it difficult to know which salon to choose if you don't have a personal recommendation. Here are a few things to look for when deciding.
- Ask for a detailed breakdown of their pricing before any specials, so you can see if you can afford their services when the special is no longer offered.
- Think about convenience factors, such as how close it is to your home or work, whether or not you have to schedule appointments or if your gym already has tanning beds.
- Ask if they use high-efficiency bulbs and how often they are changed. Ask if you can see the beds to get a look at how well maintained they appear.
- Look around – is everything spick and span? Do you see employees going in and out of the booths cleaning beds between customers? If the reception area is dirty, for instance, that's probably not a good sign.
- Talk with the staff. Well-trained professionals should help you determine your skin type, which they'll use to create a tanning schedule so you tan fairly quickly but without getting scorched.
- Decide how to build your base tan. Getting a base tan will occur with consistent and incremental increases in tanning sessions, tanning times and tanning bed levels. This will all be determined by the schedule you've created with the salon you've selected. A general rule of thumb is that at first you will only tan every 2-4 days for about 5 -7 minutes and then build from there.
- Don't assume that if you have light skin you just need to tan longer. The likely result of doing this will be a bad burn.
- Consider using special lotions. Salons will try to sell you all kinds of lotions designed to make you tan faster and darker, to make your tan last longer and so forth. Many of these lotions – accelerators, maximizers, bronzers, intensifiers – are quite expensive and reviews on how well they work are mixed. Go online and see what others have to say.
- If you decide to experiment, try one at a time. If you use more than one, and you find you're getting the results you hoped to achieve, you won't know which lotion was responsible. Trying one at a time, then, is the less expensive way to go.
- They can also often be purchased much less expensively online than in the salons.
- Wait to shower if you use a bronzing lotion. After you tan in a tanning bed, wait 3-4 hours before you take a shower if you use a bronzing lotion that you find is working for you. Also, it is a myth that showering after using a tanning bed will somehow wash away your tan. It won't.[16]
- Wear sunscreen. Just as with tanning outside, tanning beds expose your skin to UV rays. If you decide to use a tanning lotion, see if it has SPF protection and a factor of at least 15. If not, get and apply one 20-30 minutes before you bed in the bed.
- Decide what or what not to wear in the bed. Some people prefer to go nude, while others decide to wear the bathing suit they plan to wear in the summer. Either is fine.
- Using different bathing suits, however, will leave your tan uneven, and perhaps even with a variety of tan lines jig-jagging across your body.
- You will also want to wear the goggles they provide to protect your eyes, or purchase your own. Closing your eyes or putting a towel over them won't protect them from UV rays, which can cause significant damage to your retinas. Also, to avoid raccoon eyes, move the goggles around on your eyes throughout each tanning session.
- Prep your skin before tanning. Like tanning in the sun, always make sure you exfoliate prior to tanning in a tanning bed or booth. Moisturize after exfoliation as well.
- Move around in the bed. Just as you would when laying outside in the sun, you want to adjust your body so that all parts are being exposed to the light for about the same amount of time. In a tanning bed, you don't have to flip from front to back because the lights are both above and below you, and to one degree or another around you. So twist in different directions occasionally.
- Think about the places where your body is bent (like in the crook of your arms or at the base of your neck), or where your skin is bunching up. If you don't readjust often enough, this will create tanning wrinkles.
- Maintain your base tan. Once your base tan is established, you will likely drop to tanning just 2 days per week. A good salon won't try to convince you that you need more than that. Also, continue your regimen of exfoliating, moisturizing and drinking plenty of fluids.
[Edit]Applying Self-Tanners Successfully - Choose a self-tanner. There are a variety of self-tanning gels, creams, lotions, mousses and sprays on the market from which to choose. You'll also need to select a self-tanner based upon its shade, which is dictated largely by a color additive called DHA (dihydroxyacetone).[17] Choose one with your skin tone in mind, not the desired result. If you have a fairer complexion, go for a medium tone. If you have an olive complexion, go for a darker tone. Here are some more tips.
- The best way to select one initially is to go online and read reviews.
- Self-tanners that contain green pigments help offset the orange effect.[18]
- Lotions are often best for beginners because they take longer to absorb, giving you more time to correct mistakes, while mousses and sprays dry faster so are best used by the more experienced.
- Gels spread easily and work well for people with normal to oily skin.
- Do a skin patch test first by applying some to your stomach, which is usually pale, and let it dry and set overnight. In the morning take a look to see if the color looks good on you.[19]
- Prep your skin, eyebrows and hairline. You want to prepare your skin prior to applying the self-tanner you've chosen. So shave or wax, exfoliate from head to foot and make sure your skin is completely dry. The last part is critical. Also apply Vaseline to your eyebrows and as close to your hairline as possible so if you get the self-tanner on your eyebrows or hair neither will change color.[20]
- If you wax, however, do so at least 24 hours before you put on the self-tanner so your skin doesn't become irritated. Waxing, in fact, might be better than shaving because shaving every day can reduce the life of your tan by stripping it away.
- For the same reason, limit your exfoliation. Self-tanners typically only last up to a week, so don't exfoliate until right before you reapply. Avoid exfoliators that are oil-based because they leave residues that can cause streaking.[21]
- Put on disposable, tight-fitting latex gloves. These will keep your hands from getting overly orange or dark while you are applying the self-tanner.[22]
- Alternatively, you can thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water after you apply the self tanner to various sections of your body.[23]
- Use a little lotion. Dab some non-oil-based lotion to your knees, ankles, elbows, around your nostrils and other particularly dry areas to help the self-tanner better absorb into these areas. Some people will put a thin layer of lightweight lotion all over their body before applying self-tanner, but this is not needed and many recommend against doing it altogether.
- Apply the self-tanner in sections. To eliminate tan line creases from bending over, start at your feet before moving on to your ankles and legs. Use about at a time and blend using small, circular motions with your hands. Next apply it to your stomach, chest, shoulders, sides, arms and armpits. Remove your gloves and apply a little to your hands, avoiding your palms. Then use a lotion strap, wand, or sponge paintbrush to cover your back with the self-tanner. Finally, apply it to your face by using a dime-sized amount to your cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin, blending outward with your fingertips. Use the remainder around your hairline and jawbone.[24][25]
- Wash your fingertips thoroughly with soap and water after applying the self-tanner to your face.
- You can buy the items for back coverage online relatively inexpensively. If you don't feel comfortable using them, you could ask someone to apply the self-tanner to your back for you.
- If you're using a spray self-tanner, you can apply it to your back in the shower. Hop in, look over your shoulder, spray plenty into the air behind you and then step back into the mist. Do this several times to make sure you get enough on your skin.[26]
- Begin the drying process. To speed up the drying process, take a blow dryer, and on low heat, blow-dry all the areas that you've applied the self-tanner. You only need to apply the heat for a few seconds to each area. After that, it's a matter of waiting. Even if some claim to dry in 15 or 20 minutes, wait at least an hour before you put on any clothes or go to bed.[27]
- Before putting on clothing, use a brush to thinly coat your body with talc-free baby powder. This will help prevent any color from getting on your clothes.[28]
- Because getting wet is your tan's worst enemy during this time, don't shower or exercise (sweat) for at least six hours after you apply self-tanner.
- Your best bet is to put the self-tanner on about an hour or two before you go to bed. You also might want to wear long sleeves and pants, and put some towels down on your bed, to ensure no color gets on your sheets.
- Fix mistakes. If you wake up and notice splotches, streaking or uneven distribution, there are a couple of things you can do to help fix the problems: a) add just a little bit more self-tanner and blend it really well (this works best for areas that are lighter or for splotches) and b) rub lemon juice on the area for 1-2 minutes and then buff it with a damp towel (this works better if an area got too dark or for streaking).
- Maintain your tan. Different self-tanners last for different lengths of time, though typically you will need to reapply once per week. You can help lengthen that amount of time by moisturizing regularly; washing with gentle, non-abrasive cleansers; avoiding acne treatments containing retinol; and not exfoliating more than once between applications.
- Remember: Although you look tan, you still need to wear sunscreen when you go into the sun.[29]
[Edit]Tanning Fast with a Spray Tan - Get your skin ready. First, wax or shave 24 hours before your spray tan. On the day of your spray tan, use a non-oil-based exfoliator to remove dead skin and to get a more even tan, paying close attention to dry areas and to your neck, chest and face where you're more likely to streak. Don't use any oils or moisturizers when you're done bathing. Before you get your spray tan, wash your face well to remove any make-up.[30]
- Dress appropriately. While you'll have time for the spray tan to dry before you get dressed, it's still advisable to wear dark clothes. Also, while in the tanning booth you can go nude, in a swimsuit or in a thong/pair of underwear. If you opt for the latter, wear one you don't care about becoming perhaps permanently discolored.
- Remember to bring another pair of underwear with you to wear afterward.
- Decide upon your tan setting. As with self-tanner, you don't want to overdo it. If you have a fair complexion go for a light or medium tan. If you have an olive complexion, opt for medium or dark.
- Note: Different spraying machines will have different settings and color options. The key point is to avoid overkill. Subtle changes are more flattering than drastic ones – the charbroiled look simply isn't attractive on anyone.
- Apply barrier creams. After you've stripped down, you'll want to put on either a barrier cream or lotion to areas of your body that you don't want the spray tan to touch, such as your palms, between your toes and fingers and on the soles of your feet. The salon will typically provide these creams.[31]
- Prepare for your spraying. If you go to a salon where a professional does the spraying, they'll have you move into different positions, so tuck away your shyness for a few minutes. Some booths are more like an automatic car wash, in which you go in and are instructed when to turn and so forth. And then there are the self-spray booths, which are much less expensive, but the rate of streaking and splotching also often goes up, too.
- During the process, you'll receive the tanning spray itself, and then often a moisturizing mist and an air dry.[32]
- If you don't get an air dry and excess solution lingers on your skin, forming clear or brown droplets, you'll need to lightly towel dry them quickly so they don't run down your body and form streaks. Instead of drying from head to toe, start at your feet and wipe up your legs. Then start at your wrists and wipe up your arms to your shoulders. Finally, finish with your face, drying from your chin to your forehead.[33]
- Avoid water, exercise and touching your skin. Your tan will continue to develop for several hours, and your skin will feel sticky. If you do touch your skin during this time, though, wash only the underside of your hands to get off the tanning solution. Also avoid skin contact with water or don't exercise (again, sweat) during the developing phase.
- Wait 8-12 hours to shower and wash your face. Doing this will allow for your tan to fully develop. When you take your first shower, don't be surprised if you notice color washing off. This is just bronzer that is part of the tanner. Your tan will still be intact.
- Maintain your spray tan. A spray tan typically lasts between 4-10 days. Similar to using self-tanners, do not exfoliate between sessions and limit your shaving as much as possible to extend your tan's lifespan. Moisturize at least once per day, especially before bedtime, but use one that has a water base to avoid streaking. Here are some other things to avoid, which also apply to self-tanners.
- Acne medications that exfoliate your skin
- Body hair bleach products
- Facial masks
- Facial toners containing alcohol
- Makeup removers containing oil
- Taking really long, hot baths[34]
- Remember to buy a darker shade of foundation, powder and bronzer to match your newly tanned skin.
- Make sure to remove your make-up before tanning, so your pores are able to absorb the sun's rays.
- The days of using baby oil when tanning have come and gone. Don't do it. Using baby oil is just begging to get fried.
- If you're at the beach, it will often feel less hot due to the breeze, making you overstay your welcome and getting a nasty burn in the process.
- If you do get a burn, apply aloe vera to your skin. You can also try a cool bath with a couple of cups of vinegar or oatmeal.
[Edit]Warnings - Type 1 skin types – or those characterized by pale white, blond or red hair; freckles; blue eyes; and who almost always burn – should never tan outside or in tanning beds.
- There are a number of medications and topical solutions, called photo sensitizers, that can cause reactions when a person taking them is exposed to UV light, both indoor and outdoor. If you notice rashes, itching, scaling, inflammation or abnormal swelling, stop tanning and consult a physician.[35]
- Many claim that indoor tanning booths are safer than tanning outside. The Skin Cancer Foundation says that's untrue, that research shows that frequent tanners who use new, high-energy tanning beds are being exposed to 12 times the amount of annual UVA doses as those tanning outside. They also are 74% more likely to develop melanoma, a deadly type of skin cancer.[36]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Preserve a Pineapple Posted: 26 May 2020 09:00 AM PDT Fresh pineapple is a deliciously sweet and healthy treat, but it just doesn't keep very well! Cutting it up and storing it in the fridge will give you a few days, while using the freezer can offer a few months. If you really want to store fresh pineapple for the long term (1 year or more), home canning is the best option—so long as you follow all the necessary sterilization and food safety procedures. [Edit]Refrigerating or Freezing Cut Pineapple - Put the pineapple pieces into a container or bag that seals tightly. Cut pineapple pieces release a lot of sticky juice that you don't want leaking all through your fridge. Your best storage option is a glass or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. If you use a zip-close bag, make sure it's closed completely—and seal it in another zip-close bag just to be sure![1]
- If you're storing cut pineapple rings, use a cylindrical storage container (like a plastic takeout soup container) so you can stack the rings inside.
- Add a splash of orange juice to the container to reduce browning. Slight browning won't affect the flavor or quality of the stored pineapple, but it does make it look less appealing. Orange juice contains ascorbic acid, which helps to slow the browning of cut fruit. Just a light splash of OJ should do the job.[2]
- Lemon juice is often used to slow the browning of cut fruits, and will work here as well. However, the juice you choose imparts some flavor and aroma to the cut fruit, and orange juice pairs better with pineapple than lemon juice!
- Use pineapple stored in the refrigerator within 3-4 days. Fresh pineapple is sweet, delicious, and good for you, but there's simply no way to keep it fresh for long. Even when properly refrigerated, it will start to lose its flavor and get increasingly mushy and brown in as few as 3 days. Rely on preservation methods other than refrigeration if you have more pineapple than you can eat within 3-4 days.[3]
- The pineapple won't taste as good, but a bit of mushiness and browning won't hurt you. However, if you see white mold spots or notice a vinegar-like aroma (rather than sweetness), throw the pineapple away immediately.
- Freeze pineapple for no more than 3-5 months for the best results. This is a better option if you have more pineapple than you can eat within a few days. Simply label your container or bag and stash it in the freezer. The pineapple may still be edible for as many as 12 months, but it will slowly start losing its flavor and texture after around 3 months.[4]
- Use pineapple pieces straight from the freezer in smoothies and baked goods.
- Thawed pineapple pieces are too mushy to be an appetizing treat as-is, but they're perfectly fine to use in any recipe that calls for fresh pineapple.
[Edit]Canning Pineapple Pieces - Wash the canning jars and lids with soap and water. Clean the canning jars, lids, and sealing rings by hand with dish soap and hot water, or run them through a dishwasher cycle. Rinse the jars thoroughly with hot water, or use a separate sanitizing rinse cycle in your dishwasher to remove any soap residue.[5]
- Proceed to the next step while the jars and lids are still hot.
- Sterilize the clean jars and lids in boiling water. Place a canning rack or a kitchen towel in the bottom of a stock pot that's big enough to hold all the jars and lids. Set the jars right-side up in the pot and nestle the lids and sealing rings in between them. Fill the insides of the jars, and then the whole pot, with water until it covers the tops of the jars by at least . Put the pot on high heat and bring the water to a boil. Boil the jars and lids for 10 minutes if you're near sea level, and for 1 additional minute for each you are above sea level.[6]
- In other words, if you live in Miami, boil the jars for 10 minutes. If you live in Denver, give them 15 minutes.
- Use metal canning tongs to carefully empty and remove the jars and lids, then place them on a clean towel. Move on to the next step while the jars are still hot.
- Reduce the heat to low so the water in the pot remains hot.
- Simmer the cut pineapple pieces in apple juice for 10 minutes. Add the cut pineapple to a saucepan and add enough apple juice to allow the pieces to float and circulate freely. Turn the heat to medium-high until the juice begins to bubble, then turn it to medium-low or low to maintain a simmer for 10 minutes.[7]
- You can start this step while your jars and lids are sterilizing, rather than waiting until the jars are ready to pull from the boiling water.
- Proceed to the next step while both the pineapple and the jars are still hot.
- White grape juice and canning syrup (which you can find where canning supplies are sold) also work here.
- Add the pineapple pieces and juice to the jars, but don't fill them completely. Place a canning funnel on top of a jar and use a slotted spoon to add hot pineapple pieces to the jar until it's about 2/3 of the way full. Use a ladle to add hot syrup until the jar is full to within of the top. This air gap is known as the "head space" within the canning jar and is essential to the process.[8]
- Fill the other jars in the same manner.
- Remember to always leave at least of head space!
- Seal the jars securely with the lids and sealing rings. Check the neck of the jar and wipe away any spilled syrup with a clean paper towel. Set the flat lid securely on the opening of the jar. Place the sealing ring over top of the lid and screw it onto the jar's neck. Hand-tighten the ring clockwise until you feel resistance, then stop. Follow the same process with the other jars.[9]
- The jar lids should be tight, but don't try to over-tighten them. Doing so may crack or even break the glass jars.
- Return the jars to the pot of hot water and add water if needed. Use the canning tongs to lift each jar securely by its neck and slowly lower it into place, either on the canning rack or the towel at the bottom of the pot. Repeat with the other jars. Add more water to the pot if the jars are not covered by at least of water.[10]
- Ideally, there should also be at least of space between the water level and the top rim of the pot. Otherwise, water may bubble over when the pot is boiling vigorously.
- Bring the water to a rapid boil for 15-35 minutes, as required for safety. Turn the heat to high and watch for the water to come to a full, rolling boil. Start a timer at this point and boil the filled jars for the amount of time listed below:[11]
- 1 pint or jars: 15 minutes at above sea level; 20 minutes at ; 25 minutes at above .
- 1 quart or jars: 20 minutes at above sea level; 25 minutes at ; 30 minutes at ; 35 minutes at above .
- Shut off the heat, wait 5 minutes, and carefully remove the jars. After waiting 5 minutes to let the contents of the jars settle to the bottom, use your canning tongs to pull the jars from the water one-at-a-time. Place the jars on a clean towel or a cooling rack.[12]
- Check that the lids are sealed properly after 12-24 hours of cooling. Leave the jars alone for at least 12 hours, until they feel completely cool to the touch. Unscrew the sealing rings and check that each lid is sealed by: 1) pressing on the center of the lid—if it pops back up, the jar isn't sealed; 2) tapping on the lid with a metal spoon—a dull sound indicates a bad seal, a ringing sound indicates a good seal; 3) looking across the lid's top at eye level—if the lid doesn't have a slight downward (concave) indentation, it's not sealed properly.[13]
- If any jars didn't seal properly, do not try to store them long term at room temperature. Instead, do one of the following:
- Eat the pineapple inside the jar right away.
- Refrigerate the jar and eat the pineapple within 3 days.
- Pour the pineapple into a freezer-safe container and freeze it for up to 3 months.
- Repeat the canning process immediately.
- Discard the pineapple.
- Store the properly-sealed jars in a cool, dry place for no more than 2 years. Label the jars with the canning date and contents. For storage, choose a dark spot with average-to-low indoor humidity and a temperature that never exceeds —and ideally stays between about . For the best flavor, open the jar within 1 year and eat the pineapple as soon as possible afterward.[14]
- The pineapple will typically remain safe to eat for up to 2 years, but the flavor may begin to suffer.
- If the contents look moldy or if there are any unpleasant odors when you open the jar, discard the pineapple.
[Edit]Cutting a Pineapple - Cut off the top and bottom of the pineapple to create a flat base. Lay the pineapple sideways on a cutting board, hold it steady with one hand, and use a knife to slice down through the top of the pineapple, taking the leaves off with it. Spin the pineapple around and cut off the bottom in the same fashion.[15]
- It's important to cut off the bottom so that you can stand the pineapple upright with a stable, flat base. And cutting off the top gets rid of the prickly leaves!
- Shave off the pineapple's skin from top to bottom with your knife. Stand the pineapple upright on your cutting board on its now-flat bottom. Starting at the top, position the blade of your knife between the skin and the flesh of the pineapple. Guide the knife downward, following the bulging shape of the pineapple, until you reach the bottom. Try to "shave" off only the skin, not the flesh.[16]
- Repeat the process until you've removed the entire skin.
- Cut out the "eyes" in the pineapple's flesh with a paring knife. The eyes are inedible brown spots that will still be embedded in the flesh after you cut off the skin. You can cut them out individually with a paring knife, or—since the eyes are laid out in a spiral pattern—make a V-shaped trench that spirals around the pineapple from top to bottom.[17]
- Alternatively, if you want to save time and don't mind wasting some of the edible pineapple, shave away the outer or so of the flesh as you cut away the skin. This will remove most if not all of the eyes as well.
- Slice the pineapple into either rings or quarters. To cut rings, lay the pineapple on its side and slice straight down through it repeatedly. To cut the pineapple into quarters, stand it upright on its base. Sliced straight down through the center of the pineapple. Lay one half flat-side down on the board and cut in in half lengthwise. Repeat with the other half.[18]
- If you're making rings, cut them about thick.
- Remove the core with either a biscuit cutter or your knife. If you cut rings, lay each ring flat on the board. Pick out a circular biscuit cutter that's slightly larger in diameter than the tough, circular pineapple core. Lay the cutter over the core, push down firmly, give it a slight twist, and lift the cutter away—the core piece should come out with it.[19]
- If you cut the pineapple into quarters, stand one quarter upright on its base. Slice straight down through the pineapple, just outside of the pie slice-shaped core—it's lighter in color and much more dense than the flesh. Repeat with the other quarters.
- Dice the pineapple into bite-size pieces as needed. If you want to serve or use pineapple rings, you're all set! Otherwise, lay a pineapple quarter on its side and cut it into slices. Cut each slice into cubes, then repeat with the other quarters. [20]
- You can make the cubes a bit bigger or smaller if you wish, but try to keep the size consistent.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Canning Pineapple Pieces - Canning jars with lids and sealing rings
- Large pot
- Saucepan
- Canning rack
- Canning tongs
- Canning funnel
- Slotted spoon
- Clean towels
[Edit]References |
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