How to Disinfect Public Surfaces Posted: 12 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT Keeping yourself safe from bacteria and viruses is always important, but especially now during the COVID-19 outbreak. Whenever you go out in public, you'll encounter bacteria and viruses everywhere, especially on the surfaces you touch. While your body's immune system can fight off many of these infections, you can take extra steps to protect yourself by disinfecting public surfaces. With some portable cleaning products, you can quickly wipe down surfaces and keep germs off your hands. [Edit]Using the Right Cleaners - Use undiluted alcohol to kill most germs. Isopropyl alcohol at a 70% concentration can kill most germs, including the COVID-19 virus. Get a bottle from any pharmacy or supermarket and apply it to the surface you want to clean. Let it sit for 30 seconds and then wipe it away with a paper towel.[1]
- Try loading the alcohol into a small spray bottle to carry around with you. Be careful and make sure not to spray it on anyone while you're cleaning.
- Use the alcohol undiluted, otherwise it won't be strong enough to disinfect properly.
- Make a 1% bleach solution for deeper cleaning. Bleach is a stronger cleaner used in hospitals and other commercial settings. Dilute it by mixing 1 part of bleach with 99 parts of water. Mix and load the solution into a small spray bottle to use on surfaces.[2]
- If you're using a bucket to clean, add of bleach and then fill the rest with water for a 1 to 99 solution.
- Never mix bleach with anything except water. Other chemicals could create toxic fumes. Don't use it undiluted.
- Bleach can stain fabrics, paint, and some plastic, even if it's diluted. Only use it on metal or tile.
- Let the bleach solution sit for 10 minutes before wiping it off from the surface.
- After 24 hours, homemade bleach solution will lose potency and expire. Once this happens, discard the remaining solution by pouring it down the drain.[3]
- If you're cleaning a contaminated surface, like one with blood or feces on it, use a 1 to 49 parts mixture instead. For the bucket, add of bleach instead of .
- Apply undiluted hydrogen peroxide for another cleaning method. Peroxide is also effective in killing bacteria and viruses, including COVID-19. It's widely available from pharmacies or supermarkets. Apply it to surfaces undiluted and wipe it off with a paper towel.[4]
- The peroxide might foam a bit when it hits air. Don't worry, that's normal.
- Peroxide is gentler on surfaces than bleach, but it can discolor some fabrics. Only use it on hard surfaces like plastic, metal, tile, or wood.
- Use commercial cleaners that have alcohol, peroxide, or chlorine. There are many commercial cleaning products available, like Lysol and Clorox. The advantage of commercial cleaners is that they usually smell nicer than plain alcohol or bleach, and are also less likely to damage surfaces. The strongest types include alcohol, peroxide, or chlorine, which are effective for killing most bacteria and viruses. Get a product with these ingredients.[5]
- Most Lysol and Clorox products are EPA-approved disinfectants. You can't go wrong with these.[6]
- Always follow the application instructions on any products you use.
- Keep disinfectant wipes in your pocket or handbag. Many companies make disinfecting wipes in small pouches, and they're perfect for disinfecting surfaces when you're on the go. Get a small container that you can leave in your bag, pocket, or car and access easily.[7]
- Look for products that have hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or chlorine compounds as active ingredients. These are most effective for disinfecting surfaces.
- Baby wipes or flushable wipes are not disinfectants. Only get products that the EPA has approved for disinfecting.
- Use disinfectant spray if you don't need something portable. Most of the companies that make disinfectant wipes also make sprays that use the same ingredients. These are useful around the home, office, or other places where you don't need portability. Remember to keep paper towels or napkins nearby to wipe down anything you spray.[8]
- This is a good option for your office. You can keep the spray there and save the portable wipes for when you're on the go.
- You can also load a plain disinfectant like alcohol into a spray bottle for a homemade version.
- Avoid mixing your own cleaning products or using natural remedies. Some websites claim that essential oils and other natural products are good disinfectants. However, they are not effective and won't kill all of the bacteria and viruses on surfaces. Avoid these products and only use EPA-approved disinfectants.[9]
- Some products reputed to act as disinfectants are tea tree oil, vinegar, and vodka. None of these are effective.
[Edit]Wiping Down Surfaces - Apply the cleaning fluid to the surface and let it sit as long as the package recommends. Whether you're using wipes or spray, simply take your cleaner out and apply it onto surfaces. Different solutions take varying amounts of time to disinfect the surface, so let it sit for the appropriate time before wiping it off.[10]
- Let bleach solution sit for 10 minutes. This makes it less practical to use on-the-go, but good for locations that you'll be at for a while.
- Alcohol and peroxide should sit for 30-60 seconds. This makes them more practical for on-the-go use.
- Commercial cleaners have different instructions for how long they should sit. Lysol has to sit for 1-3 minutes, for example. Check the directions on the product you use.
- If you're using a spray, be careful and courteous. Don't let any of it drip onto the floor or spray someone nearby.
- Wipe off the cleaner in a circular motion. After the fluid sits for the recommended amount of time, you can wipe it off. Use a clean paper towel and wipe in a circular motion to work off any remaining germs.[11]
- If you used a wipe, you can let the fluid evaporate on its own without wiping it off. If the surface is too wet, then dry it with a clean paper towel.
- Wear gloves if you're cleaning large or very dirty surfaces. If you're cleaning a countertop, table, or similar large area, or a surface is very contaminated, then you could get germs or chemicals on your hands. Put on a pair of disposable rubber gloves when cleaning these surfaces and leave them on until you're finished. When you're done, throw them in the trash.[12]
- Don't touch anything with your contaminated gloves or you could spread germs. Pull them off without touching your skin with the outside of the glove. Follow the CDC guidelines on safely removing gloves here: https://www.cdc.gov/vhf/ebola/pdf/poster-how-to-remove-gloves.pdf.
- You could also use reusable gloves, but make sure you only use those gloves for cleaning. If you use them for other tasks, you could spread germs around.
- Throw the wipes in a marked trash can. When you're done cleaning the surface, find the nearest trash can and throw the wipe or paper towel in. This prevents litter and pollution.[13]
- If you're in a hospital or similar medical building, there may be specific bins for used cleaning supplies. Keep an eye out for one of these.
- Don't throw paper towels or wipes into the recycling bin. They're soiled with chemicals and can't be recycled.
- Wash your hands as soon as you can afterward. Disinfecting surfaces helps you avoid germs, but it isn't a replacement for washing your hands. When you can, go to the bathroom and wash your hands. Lather your hands up with soap and water and scrub for 20 seconds. Remember to cover the front and backs of your hands up to your wrists, as well as your fingernails and between your fingers.[14]
- Washing your hands after disinfecting is also important because some of these chemicals will irritate your skin if you leave them on without washing them off.
- Do not touch your face at all until you've washed your hands thoroughly. You could spread germs or chemicals to your face.
[Edit]Disinfecting the Right Things - Clean high-touch surfaces like shopping carts and faucet handles. If you're out in public and need to use something that lots of other people use too, be sure to disinfect it first. Shopping carts, taps or faucets, elevator buttons, railings, and water fountains are all commonly-used items that could have germs on them. Sanitize the item before touching it and wash your hands after using the item, too.
- Wipe down doorknobs, handles, and light switches before touching them. Places that people touch often are usually the dirtiest. Doorknobs, handles, and light switches are some of the dirtiest public places because people touch them all day, and many probably haven't washed their hands. Disinfect these surfaces before you touch them, or wash your hands soon afterward.[15]
- If you work in an office, it's a good idea to wipe down the doorknobs at the end of every day to keep them clean.
- Sterilize any handles on public transit that you grab. Surfaces on public transit are usually very dirty, so you should disinfect anything you touch here. In particular, wipe down any handles or bars that you have to hold on to during the trip.[16]
- Public transit might be crowded, so be courteous if you're wiping down a surface. Work fast and don't drip fluid on anyone.
- Disinfect any devices with a touch screen. ATMs, credit card machines, or self-checkout machines all have touch screens that many people use. Disinfect these surfaces before you use them.[17]
- Never spray any cleaning fluid directly onto a touch screen; excess moisture can cause expensive damage. Instead, dampen a paper towel with 70% alcohol solution or another disinfectant.
- Make sure the touch screen is completely dry when you're done.
- If you don't have any disinfectant handy, use the touch screen anyway; afterwards, clean your hands with soap or hand sanitizer.
- Clean keyboards and mice before you use them. Both at home and at work, computers usually hold a lot of bacteria. Protect yourself by wiping down the keyboard and mouse before you start working.[18]
- Don't spray any cleaning fluid directly onto a keyboard or the moisture could damage the electronics. Either use a wipe or spray a little cleaning fluid onto a paper towel.
- Sanitize any items that you share with others. Whether in the office or at home, there are probably several items that you share. These might include phones, pens, remote controls, highlighters, and any other loose items. Always give these a spray or wipe before you use them, and then wipe them down again when you're finished.[19]
- Avoid using disinfectants on anything that might be used or touched by children. Most disinfectants are toxic, so soap and water should be used instead.[20]
- Until the COVID-19 outbreak passes, it's best to stop sharing items just to be safe. If you can't avoid it, then disinfect items that others have touched.
- Use a light spray on soft surfaces. Fabrics or other soft surfaces on chairs or couches are a bit more difficult to disinfect. You can use the same products you'd use on other surfaces, but only use a small amount so you don't soak the fabric. Apply a light spray or gentle rub from a disinfecting wipe. Let the cleaner sit, then wipe the surface dry with a paper towel.[21]
- Contrary to what you might think, the COVID-19 virus, and most other viruses, don't live very long on soft surfaces. You're more likely to pick up viruses from solid surfaces like doorknobs.[22]
- If you don't have time to disinfect every surface you encounter, then wear disposable gloves when you're out in public. Make sure you dispose of them when you get home.
- Remember that a visual check is not a good judge on whether or not you should disinfect a surface. Bacteria and viruses are microscopic, so a surface can be infected even if it doesn't look dirty. It's best to disinfect all surfaces that people touch often.
- Clean your phone often as well. Bacteria and viruses can colonize this surface as well.
[Edit]Warnings - Although there are germs everywhere, you shouldn't let that stop you from going outside or enjoying your life. If you find yourself avoiding public places because you're afraid of germs, you may have some kind of phobia. Consider speaking with a therapist to overcome your fear.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
How to Stretch a Leather Bag Posted: 11 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT A professional leather repair shop should have no problem stretching your bag out. This is the safest way to make a leather bag bigger, but you can certainly save some money stretching it at home! Realistically, the solutions here may expand the leather , but you aren't going to double the size of the bag or anything like that. Keep in mind, since the process for stretching leather does not stretch out other fabrics the same way, these solutions will not make the inside of your bag bigger if there's a tight fabric lining inside. [Edit]Filling the Bag to Stretch it Out - Find a pillow that is slightly larger than the inside of your bag. Look around your home for a throw pillow, couch pillow, or some small cushion that is roughly bigger than your bag on each side. If your bag is really big, you may be able to use a standard pillow for this. If you have multiple pillows that will work, use the stiffest pillow available.[1]
- You can line the bag with a shirt or towel and add the pillow after to make the interior of the bag a little smaller if you don't have a perfect pillow for this.
- Empty your bag to avoid odd indentations or uneven stretching. Open the bag and take everything out. Look inside each smaller compartment and run your hand along the interior lining of the bag to make sure you got everything. If you stretch the bag with something inside of it, it may cause the leather to stretch in a weird way or leave a mark on the leather.[2]
- Stuff the pillow inside the bag and zip it up if possible. Compress the pillow in your hands and push it inside of your bag. Tuck the corners of the pillow into the corners of the bag and line it up so that the pillow is sitting evenly inside of the bag. If you have a zipper, push the pillow down a little and zip the bag if you can.[3]
- If the pillow is pushing on the bag so hard that you can't zip the bag, don't try to zip it shut. You're just going to break the bag if you close it when it's stuffed too full. Zipping the bag isn't mandatory for this to work anyway, so it's not worth risking it.
- Let the bag sit with the pillow inside for 1-3 days to stretch it out. Set the bag in your closet or some other place where it won't get damaged or in your way. Let the pillow sit inside of the bag to stretch the leather out gently over time. The pillow will slowly force the leather to expand and your bag may get a little bigger.[4]
- You may need to keep the pillow inside of the bag for much longer if you aren't seeing any results. Realistically, you can leave the pillow inside for as long as you want. Let the bag rest for 2-3 months if you don't need it right away and want to stretch it as wide as you can.
[Edit]Using a Stretching Spray - Pick up a leather stretching spray designed for shoes. Go online or stop by your local shoe store and pick up a bottle of leather stretching spray. This spray is typically designed for shoes, but there's no reason it won't work on a leather bag.[5]
- Expect to spend $5-15 on a leather stretching spray.
- You can use a leather conditioning spray instead if you simply want to soften the leather up. This may make your bag feel bigger without stretching the material too much.
- Stuff the bag with a pillow or newspaper to expand the leather. You aren't going to stretch the leather out very much if you don't stuff the bag with something to keep the material spread out. Either tuck a pillow inside of the bag or ball up enough newspaper to fill the bag entirely. Zip the bag if you have a zipper.[6]
- Shake the stretching spray and spritz the first side of your bag. Shake the stretching spray back and forth for 5-10 seconds to mix the ingredients up and activate the spray. Take the cap of the spray off and hold the nozzle from the side of your bag. Spray your bag back and forth to cover the entire side of the bag.[7]
- You can spray and buff each side of the bag separately, or coat the bag entirely in the spray and wipe it down all at once. Do whatever is easier for you.
- Work the spray into the leather by rubbing it with a microfiber cloth. Grab a dry, clean microfiber cloth and gently work the leather stretching spray into the surface of the leather. Use firm circular motions and back-and-forth strokes to work the spray into the leather. Continue wiping until there is no leather stretching spray visibly sitting on the surface of the bag.[8]
- Repeat this process on the other sides of the bag and let the leather air dry. Continue spritzing and buffing the surface of the bag until you've worked the spray into every portion of the bag. Let the leather air dry and keep the newspaper or pillow inside the bag for 1-3 hours. Remove the pillow or newspaper after you're done to finish stretching the bag.[9]
- You may need to repeat this process multiple times to see any results.
[Edit]Soaking the Straps in Alcohol and Water - Fill a small bin with a 1:1 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Grab a small bucket or storage bin that is big enough to submerge your straps. Fill it up 1/3 of the way with rubbing alcohol. Then, fill another 1/3 of the container with regular tap water. Use a wooden spoon or mixing stick to mix the solution together.[10]
- This will work, but it may wash out any dyes or ink on your bag. If your handles have any patterns or colors on them, this is likely not a good idea.
- Soak the handles in the solution for 15-30 seconds. Empty your bag out entirely and flip it upside down. Lower the straps under the surface of the solution. Use your spoon or mixing stick to push the straps down if they won't stay under the surface. Keep the straps submerged for 15-30 seconds to give the solution time to soak through.[11]
- Lift the bag out and hang it by the straps with a heavy object inside. Pull the bag up out of the solution and wait 5-10 seconds for the excess alcohol and water to drip off into the bucket. Then, hang the bag on a hook or tension rod over a sink, tub, or bucket. Set a brick, weight, or other heavy object inside of the bag to weigh it down.[12]
- Let the bag hang and air dry for 8-12 hours to stretch it out. Wait for the heavy object to stretch the leather out after the alcohol has softened it up. Keep it on the hook or tension rod for half a day or so. After the bag is completely dry, take it down and enjoy your newly stretched out handles![13]
- If your bag has a cloth or fabric interior, stretching the leather won't actually make the bag bigger. The process for stretching leather will not make polyester, cotton, or linen expand the same way.
[Edit]Warnings - It's really not worth doing any of this with a vintage or designer bag. You will dramatically diminish the value of the bag and it may mess with any dyes or logos on the bag. You're better off simply selling the bag if it's too small for you and buying a new one!
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Filling the Bag to Stretch it Out [Edit]Using a Stretching Spray - Pillow or newspaper
- Leather stretching spray
- Microfiber cloth
- Leather conditioner (optional)
[Edit]Soaking the Bag in Alcohol and Water - Rubbing alcohol
- Water
- Spoon or mixing stick
- Hook or tension rod
- Bucket
- Blow dryer (optional)
[Edit]References |
How to Make a Hole in a Glass Bottle Posted: 11 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT Knowing how to safely drill holes in glass bottles can open up new horizons for your crafting and decorating projects. And it's a lot easier than you might think—in fact, it's just like drilling a hole in any other surface, only with a few key precautions to keep in mind. The most important of these are to equip yourself with the right bit, make sure your bottle is properly secured, and take it slow and easy with your drill to avoid breaking the delicate glass. [Edit]Marking and Positioning the Bottle - Mark the spot where you want to put the hole with masking tape. Tear off two strips of tape and cross them over your intended drilling site in an 'X' shape. Smooth both strips with your finger so that they're lying nice and flat.[1]
- You can also use painter's tape, medical tape, or another textured type of tape if you don't have any masking tape on hand. Duct or electrical tape may also do the trick, but be warned that they'll be slicker than other varieties.[2]
- The tape will not only help you keep track of where your hole needs to go, but also provide a little traction for the drill bit, keeping it from slipping on the slick glass.
- Draw a dot at the center of the tape. Take a felt-tipped marker or ink pen and scribble a bold, dark circle at the middle of the section where the two pieces of tape overlap. Make sure your dot is large enough to be plainly visible.[3]
- This dot will serve as a kind of bullseye for your drill bit, allowing you to fine-tune the placement of your hole.
- Place the bottle on a folded towel or similar makeshift pad. Any kind of broad, soft item with a little give will work here—it could be a seat cushion, a scrap piece of carpet or foam, or even an old t-shirt. Lay the bottle flat against your makeshift pad with the taped side facing up.[4]
- You'll have the easiest time drilling your bottle when it's resting on a work surface that's around waist- or chest-high.
[Edit]Drilling the Hole - Fit a power drill with a small spear-tipped carbide or diamond bit. You'll be using this bit to open up a starter hole, which you can then bore out to the exact size you want. Once you've selected your starter bit, slip the bottom of the shaft into the business end of your drill, pressing down on it forcefully to confirm that it's fully seated.[5]
- It's important to make sure that the bit you're working with is tipped with either carbide or diamond. Both are very strong materials that will easily cut into the fragile glass without shattering it.[6]
- Spear-tipped bits come in a wide range of diameters, so you should have no trouble finding a set that's just the right size for your project. to .[7]}}
- Grip the neck of the bottle firmly with your non-dominant hand to secure it. For the sake of safety and precision, use this hand to hold the bottle as still as possible while reserving your dominant hand to do the actual drilling. Make sure your bracing hand is a safe distance away from the spot where you plan on making your hole.[8]
- Tilting the upper portion of the bottle up at a 30-45 degree angle can put it in a more natural position for drilling. That way, you won't have to try to move your drill straight up and down.
- Another option is to place your pad on the ground, kneel over the bottle, and squeeze the neck between your knees to hold it steady.[9]
- Find a way to keep thick glass cool and wet as you drill. The least complicated solution is to simply pause every 5-10 seconds and spray the bottle with some cold water. You can also set up your materials inside a shallow basin in the sink and turn on the faucet so that the stream flows continuously over the bottle while you work. Yet another option is to fill a bottle with water, poke a hole in it, and direct the trickle over the spot you're drilling.[10]
- For a more traditional approach, you can also mold a hunk of plumber's putty into a ring, press it onto the bottle around your drilling site, and pour some water into it to form a "dam."[11]
- The friction of the drill bit on the glass will generate a lot of heat. The warmer the glass gets, the higher its chances of cracking or shattering.
- Make a precise starter hole using low speed and moderate pressure. Align the pointed tip of the bit with the center of the crossed tape and hold the drill so that it forms a right angle with the surface of the glass. Squeeze the trigger of the drill lightly while pressing the bit straight into the bottle. Keep drilling until the tip of the bit clears the interior side.[12]
- Consider putting on cut-resistant gloves, a safety mask, and some type of eye protection before you begin drilling to limit your exposure to potentially-irritating dust particles.[13]
- It may take several seconds to get all the way through the glass, especially if it's particularly thick.
- Throw on a larger bit and drill again to widen the hole to the desired size. Perform your follow-up rounds of drilling the same way you did the first, positioning the bit perpendicularly with the bottle and guiding it straight in with light-to-moderate pressure. When you're done, you should have a nice, clean hole to show for your efforts.[14]
- Remember to keep the glass cool and lubricated each time you put drill to bottle.
- It shouldn't be necessary to change bits more than 2 or 3 times. If your hole needs to be especially big, it will be easier to simply use a hole cutting bit.
[Edit]Smoothing and Covering the Hole - File or sand the inner edges of larger holes to smooth them out. When you're satisfied with the size of your hole, insert a file or some high-grit sandpaper wrapped around an awl or similar tool into the hole and work your way around the edges. This will wear down any sharp or jagged edges that could pose a safety risk.[15]
- This step is optional. There's no need to file or sand the finished hole if you're going to be using your bottle as a hands-off decoration.
- Rinse the bottle thoroughly to wash off any lingering particles of glass dust. Hold the bottle under a stream of cool running water, rotating it to hit every part of the outer surface. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear and there are no visible traces of debris on either the bottle or the hole.[16]
- Don't forget to flush out the inside of the bottle, as well. The best way to do this is to fill it up about one-third of the way, swish the water around, and dump it out through the neck.
- Install a rubber grommet over the hole to prevent wear to other materials. If you're going to be feeding string, rope, cable, or anything else through the hole in your bottle, it's a good idea to have an additional means of protection in place. Look no further than a cheap rubber grommet. With most basic grommets, all you have to do is align the device with the hole and press it in until it seats securely.[17]
- You can pick up a 2-pack of rubber grommets for around $1 at any hardware shop or home improvement center, as well as most craft supply stores. Be sure to pick out grommets that match the diameter of your hole.
- Curving a small piece of tape around the inner edge of the hole will also do the trick if you're not too particular about looks.
- The method described here will also work on a multitude of other glass objects, as well, including window panels, mason jars, drinking glasses, vases, jugs, and even thick-walled aquariums and cases.
[Edit]Warnings - Never drill closer than from either end of a glass bottle. Doing so will almost certainly cause it to break.
- It should go without saying, but once you've drilled a hole in your bottle, it will no longer be suitable for drinking or functioning as a beverage container.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Glass bottle
- Masking tape, painter's tape, or other type of textured tape
- Felt-tipped marker or ink pen
- Soft towel or similar item
- Power drill
- Spear-tipped carbide or diamond drill bits of various sizes
- Cold water
- Water
- Rubber grommet
- Hole cutting bit (optional)
- Gloves, facemask, and eye protection (optional)
- Round file (optional)
- Awl or similar tool (optional)
- High-grit sandpaper (optional)
[Edit]References |
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