| How to Level Ground for a Pool Posted: 19 Jun 2020 01:00 AM PDT An uneven surface can weaken or damage an above ground pool, so leveling the ground before installation is essential. Remove the sod, then check for levelness to identify slopes and high spots. Always dig out high patches instead of filling in lower areas. After you've leveled the ground, rake away debris, tamp the soil, then spread and tamp a layer of sand. [Edit]Leveling out a Cleared Spot - Check for levelness to identify high spots. The easiest way to check for levelness without special equipment is to look for them. Do a visual inspection to check for any spots that are higher or lower than the rest. After taking care of these areas, lay a wood plank across your work area. Zip tie a carpenter's level on top of the plank, and move the plank throughout the work area to test multiple spots.[1]
- Position the plank and level from the center of the work area to its edge, like a clock's hand. Check for levelness, then rotate the plank , like a clock hand moving from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. Proceed shifting the plank and checking levelness every 2 to 3 feet.
- Mark high patches with stakes. You might find that a wide patch of the work area is more or less level, but one edge of it slopes significantly. Place stakes or sticks at areas that slope or are off-grade. You'll need to dig away these area in order to create level ground for the pool.
- Dig away soil instead of building up low patches. Always dig away slopes and high spots to make them level with lower areas, even if it takes more work. If you fill in a patch with dirt or sand, the weight of the pool and water will compress it and cause problems in the future.[2]
- Use a spade or shovel to dig out high ground. Once you've identified your high spots, start shoveling away soil. Dump the soil in a wheelbarrow, then dispose of it, compost it, or use it for gardening projects, such as for potted plants or to adjust the grade elsewhere in your yard.[3]
- Rent a skid-steer loader for tougher jobs. Leveling a 5 or 10 degree slope and removing of soil by hand is doable. However, if you have to remove or more of soil across a wide area, you might need to rent heavy equipment. Skid-steer loaders usually require some training, so consult your rental equipment manager about meeting operation requirements.[4]
- If you're not confident about operating a skid-steer loader, consider hiring a professional to regrade the area. Look online to find a landscape architect or licensed contractor with grading experience.
- Check for levelness periodically to gauge your progress. Every now and then, lay the wood plank and carpenter's level onto your work surface. Continue digging and tracking your progress until you've leveled the entire work area.[5]
[Edit]Finishing off the Leveled Ground - Rake the area to remove rocks, branches, and other debris. Rake the area thoroughly after you've finished leveling. Sharp debris could puncture your pool's lining.[6]
- Tamp the soil. The soil needs to be firm in order to support the pool. After raking it clean, water the soil with a garden hose, then run a rolling tamper throughout the work area to compact the soil.[7]
- To compact the soil more effectively, run a soaker hose or sprinkler at low pressure for about an hour before you roll or tamp the area.
- You can rent a lawn roller at your local home improvement store. Typically, you can fill the drum with water to control its weight. Fill it up, then push it over the leveled ground to compact the soil.
- Spread and tamp a layer of sand over the area. Many pool manufacturers call for a layer of sand, but check your owner's manual to stay on the safe side. Lay out a layer of sand deep across the work area, then roll over it with the tamper.[8]
- If there are any areas that you need to level, use crushed limestone instead of sand.
- Order masonry sand from a home improvement store or pool retailer to ensure the grains are evenly sized and debris-free. The amount you'll need depends on the size of your pool. If your pool is in diameter, you'll need about a ton of sand, which can cost between $25 and $40 (US).
- Double check the sand for rocks, large grains, and other debris when you spread it.
- Treat the area with fungicide and herbicide. Since the area around the pool will constantly get wet, apply a fungicide before installing the pool.[9] In addition, applying an herbicide will ensure that no plants will sprout and damage your pool liner.[10]
- Application rates vary by chemical, so check how much area a product covers by volume. The amount you'll need also depends on your pool's area but, at most, you'd probably need each of ready to use fungicide and herbicide.[11]
- Make sure you use petroleum-free products. Ready to use products that don't require dilution are easier to use than concentrates that need to be mixed with water.
- Wait to install the pool until 2 weeks after applying fungicide or other chemicals.
- You can also place a tarp over the area to help protect the chemicals from moisture and sun while you work.
[Edit]Clearing Sod Before Leveling - Place plastic sheets over the area 2 weeks in advance to kill grass. Covering the grass with plastic sheets or tarps for a couple of weeks will kill the grass in the area. This will make it much easier to remove the sod. Place plastic sheets over the area where you will be installing the pool and weigh them down on the edges with heavy objects, such as rocks, bricks, or cinder blocks.
- Remove sod after rain or a thorough watering. If the site isn't already clear, you'll have to remove the grass before leveling the ground. The day after heavy rain is a great time to cut sod. If no rain is in the forecast, water the work area well in the days before you remove the grass. Dry sod is harder to remove.[12]
- While you don't want to cut dry sod, don't use a power sod cutter if the soil is soaked.
- Rent a sod cutter to make the job easier. While you can remove sod manually, a sod cutter is your best option for larger areas of turf. You can rent a power sod cutter at your local home improvement store.[13]
- Before you use a sod cutter, make sure the area is clear of sprinklers, hoses, toys, and other potential hazards. Cable wires, landscape lighting wires, and sprinkler pipes may also be just below the sod, so watch for these.
- Read your user manual and consult your store's equipment manager for your specific machine's operating instructions.
- Use a grub hoe if you don't want to rent equipment. If you don't want to deal with power equipment, you can just put in a little elbow grease. Start by scoring the sod with a spade to divide it into sections, then use your hoe and shovel to dig out each section. Remove at least of the work area's surface.[14]
- Recruit some friends or family to help make the job go faster. If necessary, you can bribe them with pool time!
- Roll up and dispose of your sod. A power cutter removes sod in sections that you can roll up and transfer to a wheelbarrow or lawn bags. Removing sod manually is messier, and you'll need to shovel the sod into your receptacle. When you're finished, you can leave lawn bags on the curb for pickup or add the sod (or a portion of it) to your compost heap.
- If you used a power cutter and your rolls of sod are in good shape, you could lay it down on a bare patch elsewhere in your yard. Water the bare patch well, fertilize it, and add compost if the soil needs conditioning. Then lay down the sod, and water it daily for 1 to 2 weeks.
[Edit]Choosing a Good Site Beforehand - Check your local building codes. Choose the flattest spot possible, but make sure you comply with local codes. Check if your pool needs to be a minimum distance from property lines, septic tanks, and roads.[15]
- Contact your local recorder's or assessor's office if you need to find your property lines.
- Run an online search or look for applicable codes on your city's, state's, or province's government website.
- If you have a homeowner's association, it's also wise to check its bylaws.
- Make sure your pool is not close to an easement or setback where workers might need to access power or other utility lines.
- Check to see if your pool might be in a conservation area if your property borders a forest.
- Avoid underground utility lines and overhead power cables. If you're not sure where your gas lines and other underground cables are, call your utility company. In addition, make sure your spot isn't under power cables.[16]
- Stay away from trees and stumps. If your pool is under a tree, more leaves and bugs will fall into it. Aside from being unsightly, debris could affect the pool's chemistry and make it harder to maintain. Further, trees' root systems could get in the way of leveling the site, and even if the tree is a stump it will be difficult to remove.[17]
- Setting your pool beyond a tree's farthest branches should be a far enough distance if the tree is established. For younger trees, you can calculate the size of the root system to be on the safe side. Younger trees have thirstier roots, which could extend up to 38 times the trunk diameter. If a young tree's trunk is across, its roots could extend over .[18]
- Most older trees' root systems only extend about as far as its canopy.
- Consider the drainage in the area. It is important to make sure that the area where you want to put the pool has good drainage, or you could end up with a swamp in your backyard. Pay attention to how well the water drains after a heavy rain. If possible, avoid areas that stay waterlogged for long periods, or you can divert the water before putting in the pool.
- Mark off an area with a diameter larger than your pool. Once you've chosen a suitable spot, place a stake in the ground at its center. Divide your pool's diameter by 2 to find its radius, then add to the radius. Cut a string to that length, tie it to the stake, and use it to trace the circumference of your work area. Mark the area with stakes or chalk.[19]
- If your pool is shaped like an oval, use a measuring tape to trace its dimensions onto your work area. Remember to make your perimeter longer than your pool on all sides.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Level
- Wood plank
- Measuring tape
- Lawn stakes
- Grub hoe
- Spade
- Shovel
- Wheelbarrow
- Rake
- Sod cutter (optional)
- Lawn roller
- Herbicide and fungicide
- Sand
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fly Fish Posted: 18 Jun 2020 05:00 PM PDT Fly fishing is an outdoor sport enjoyed by many anglers around the world. Fly fishing is much more complicated than fishing with a standard spin rod, but the solitude you'll find while fly fishing (and the meditative casting ritual) is unmatched. Wading into an icy river and replicating the movements of a fish's prey on the water are a wilderness experience you won't get from casting with worms off a pier. Fly fishing can be difficult, and it takes a lot of practice to learn how to properly cast. With a little practice, though, you'll be pulling in monster trout in no time. [Edit]Learning the Basics of Fly Fishing - Find out the fishing license requirements in your region. Before you set out for any kind of fishing trip, you'll need a valid license issued by your state. Every state's requirements are different, and some wilderness areas have either more lax restrictions or even greater restrictions/prohibitions on fishing. Getting caught without a license or fishing in a body of water that doesn't allow fishing can land you in trouble with the law, so it's best to comply with your state's requirements and know the rules wherever you intend to fish.[1]
- Search online to see what your state requires. You can also find helpful courses on e-learning sites like Udemy.
- You can also find information online on where and how to acquire a fishing license.
- Some locations may allow you to acquire a fishing license online, while others require you to visit a retail or licensing facility in person.
- Borrow or purchase quality fishing gear. You'll need some specialized equipment in order to fly fish. If you're working within a budget or aren't sure yet that you'll want to stick with fly fishing, it's best to borrow gear or purchase low-cost equipment. The basics you will need at any price point include[2]:
- a fly rod (for most freshwater streams, lakes, and ponds, a six to eight-foot rod is sufficient)[3]
- a spool
- flies
- pliers
- a hemostat (special clamps/forceps used to remove hooks from a trout's mouth)
- a sharp pocket knife
- a rod and reel case
- a fly box to transport your gear
- a landing net
- a hat to block out the sun (anything with a brim will suffice)
- sunglasses with polarized lenses (so you can see through the glare in the water)
- waders
- wading boots (for better grip on the slippery riverbed)
- non-slip feet attachments (like sole spikes)
- a fly fishing vest with pockets for your tools and flies
- Choose effective flies. There are many different types of flies, each one designed to mimic a different aquatic invertebrate. You can purchase pre-made flies at most fishing supply stores, or try making your own. Some of the most common types of flies are designed to look like the following aquatic invertebrates/insects[4]:
- mayfly hatch
- Caddisfly hatch
- stonefly hatch
- terrestrial hatch (designed to look like and imitate a terrestrial insect)
- midges
- scuds
- leeches
- dragonfly/damselfly
- Learn to tie your own dry fly. If you've been fly fishing for a while or simply like working with your hands, you may prefer to make your own fly. Be aware, however, that it can be very time-consuming. You'll need various types of feathers and fur, good eyesight (or a lighted magnifying glass to see better), and skilled hands.[5]
 - Pass the line just before the eye of the hook and wrap it around the shank of the hook to the midpoint.
- Place your fly materials on the shank of the hook and pinch them in place.
- Wrap the line around the fly materials until they're firmly in place, then wrap back over the spot you just wrapped. This will help secure the hackles (or whatever materials you're using) in place.
- If you add any additional materials, make sure they're approximately even/level with the materials already wrapped to your hook.
- You can split hackles or other materials by separating them a tiny bit (just a half-inch or so at the tips) and wrapping some of the line between them.
- Apply some wax to the line just before the hook/fly.
- Pinch and twist a tiny amount of dubbing fur to the wax. Keep twisting and wrapping it in one direction up and down the waxed portion of line until the fur is tightly around that section of the line.
- Wrap the waxed and fur-wrapped section of line around the hook shank towards the tail, then turn and wrap back over the shank.
- Tie off the line, cut off any excess thread, and use a drop of liquid cement to secure the whole fly in place.
- Tie fly knots more effectively. Whether you're tying your own homemade fly or tying on a store-bought fly, it's important to know how to attach a fly to your line so that it will stay on. Don't tighten any knots until your fly is in position, and make sure you know how to properly secure a fly on your line before you cast into a river.[6]
- Always wet your knot with saliva or river water before tightening it. This allows you to slide the knot around on the line and get it into place.
- Keep your knots tight once they're in position. Use a continuous and steady pull on the line, and check that your fly is secure before casting.
- Trim any excess line off the end past the knot. Try to cut as close to the knot as possible without actually hitting the knot itself.
[Edit]Finding the Right Time and Place to Fish - Choose a good fly fishing location. Fishing is partly a game of chance, but where you choose to fish can make a big difference in the outcome of your expedition. It's best to choose a quiet, secluded place far from other people (including other fishers). You'll also have to read the water to find the best places to cast, as fish tend to gravitate towards certain underwater environments.[7]
 - Look for boulders and submerged trees/debris. Fish tend to use these underwater areas for shelter/protection, as well as for feeding.
- Scan the water for any areas just downstream of rocks and trees. Fish commonly position themselves just past these refuge areas knowing that smaller fish and aquatic invertebrates will travel downstream.
- In the early morning hours you might be able to find fish in unusually shallow water as they search for food. Stand on the bank and scan the shallows for signs of fish.
- Try casting in undercut banks. If the water has worn out a channel under the bank of the river and created a hollowed-out space, it's a good bet that fish congregate there.
- Look for pools where the stream/river widens to a gut. The head of the pool (where the pool first widens) is usually a good fishing spot, as well as the slower current just downstream of the head.
- Avoid casting in the downstream end of a pool (called the tailout). That area tends to be more shallow and near rapids/riffles downstream, so most fish tend to avoid these areas.
- Fish at the right time of day. Almost as important as where you fish is when you fish. Fish tend to feed in the morning around sunrise, and again in the evening around sunset. However, if you're new to fishing, it may be easiest to learn how to fish in the midday sun.[8]
- If you're just starting to learn how to fly fish, you may not know how to spot a fish on the bed or a river.
- You'll be able to see a fish's shadows most clearly during midday due to the position of the sun and the reduction of glare on the water.
- If you're just starting out, it may be best to practice spotting fish and casting during the midday sun. You can always stick around until fish become more active, or come back at a later time.
- Be quiet and cautious as you approach/enter the stream. Fish are incredibly sensitive to their environment. Any kind of noise can disturb fish, though other factors may also tip them off to your whereabouts.[9]
- Fish can detect disturbances in the water. Some may even be able to detect disturbances along the shore.
- Never stomp your feet or make a lot of noise on the banks.
- Stay in the shade so you don't cast a shadow, or try crouching/squatting as you approach the water.
- If you intend to wade into the water, move very, very slowly. Walking in too rapidly will create ripples and send the sound through the water column.
[Edit]Casting and Reeling In a Fish - Use a two-stroke cast if you've got the room. If you're on a clear bank with no low-hanging trees, you should be able to use a two-stroke cast. This is a basic casting method, but it requires some clearance above and behind you. Make sure you have enough room before attempting this cast, as a low tree branch can easily snag your line and cost you your fly.[10]
- Lead out approximately three rod-lengths' worth of fishing line.
- Hold the rod with your dominant hand.
- Check the line for tangles. If there are any tangles present, you'll need to straighten them out before casting.
- With your arm slightly extended, whip the tip of the rod up and back in a steady movement.
- Don't whip the rod too far back; you'll want to stop when the tip of the rod is pointing up and just slightly behind you.
- Watch as the line unfurls. The three rod-lengths' worth of line should be extended.
- Immediately before the line completely straightens out above/behind you, flick the rod forward to send the line out onto the surface of the water.
- Try a roll cast if there's no room behind you. If there's not enough room above or behind you, you may want to try a roll cast. This is somewhat similar in action to the two-stroke cast, but it doesn't require as much room or as much loose line.[11]
- Hold the rod in your dominant hand slightly in front of you.
- Check the line for tangles. Straighten out any tangles present before you attempt to cast.
- Gently bring the rod back. The tip should be above your casting shoulder, and a small piece of line should be hanging behind you.
- Move the rod forward. Start slow, then speed it up as your arm comes down.
- Don't whip the rod too far ahead. Stop when the tip of the rod is still angled slightly upward.
- The loop of line should unfurl and cast onto the surface of the water.
- Make your fly attractive along the water's surface. Fish should see your fly as a real insect/invertebrate. How you manage the line will determine how convincing your fly is to a fish.[12]
- There are two primary ways to imitate an actual insect: letting it drift without any movement on your part, or giving the line very slight, gentle twitches to imitate natural movement.
- Move your rod to the right or left to change the angle at which the line lays on the water.
- If you are upstream from a fish, keep the rod (and your rod arm) angled upstream. As the fly moves downstream with the current, slowly angle your rod and arm to face downstream at the same speed the fly is moving at to create a drag-free line.
- If a fish is feeding near the surface, try to cast your fly so that it lands near the fish's head and floats towards it.
- Hook a fish. Once you've gotten a bite (which you should be able to feel if the line is taut), you'll need to hook the fish. If you don't hook the fish, or if you don't hook it properly, it can easily get away off your line.[13]
- Keep the rod's tip low to the water. That way when a fish strikes, you can move the rod's tip in the direction of line curvature.
- Keep the line as taut as possible. If you try to set the hook while there's excess slack in the line it will not move the hook whatsoever.
- Set the hook securely in the fish's mouth. You'll do this by continuing to hold the rod with one hand and pulling down sharply on the line with the other hand.
- Do not yank the rod tip upwards. Some fishers do this thinking it helps set the hook, but really it just complicates the process of reeling in your fish.
- If the fish tries to bolt upstream, keep the rod tip close to the water and pointed in the direction of the line, not the fish.
- Continue to strip away line until the fish tires itself out.
- Palm the reel if you're pulling in a big fish. This simply means applying pressure with your palm to the reel to prevent the spool from running out.[14]
- Net your fish once it's tired and in shallow water. After you've hooked your fish, it will begin to fight. It may try to swim upstream or downstream, or it may just jerk the line around trying to get free. The key is to let the fish tire itself out (while moving your rod accordingly), then reel it in.[15]
- Do not lift your rod up. This could put too much pressure on the rod, causing it to break.
- Try to keep the fish in the water as much as possible, especially if you plan on releasing it.
- If you're working with a larger fish, it may be easier to "beach" the fish by leading it onto a bank where the water is shallowest.
- Move the net into position and gently pull the line to guide the fish head-first over the net's rim.
- Once the fish's body is past the rim of the net, flick the rim up (to ensure the fish doesn't jump out quickly) while simultaneously lifting the net out of the water. This should prevent escape and send the fish to the bottom of your net.
- Carefully unhook your fly from the fish's mouth. Remember that it will most likely be thrashing and flailing, so be careful not to cut yourself or hurt the fish.
- Decide whether to keep the fish or release it. Once you've netted your fish, you'll need to decide whether your fish is big enough to keep. If it's too small, you'll need to release it. Before you do anything, though, you should know the restrictions and requirements in the region where you're fishing.
- Different regions have differing requirements on the minimum size of a fish. Those requirements may change within a single state if you're fishing in a wilderness area.
- Some bodies of water (especially those in wilderness areas) may be catch-and-release only. In this case, you must unhook the fish and set it loose in the water.
- Always check the laws and guidelines in any region you intend to fish. You can find these requirements by searching online, or by asking a park ranger (or the equivalent).
- Try to find an enjoyable place to fish. Half the fun for many anglers is getting outdoors and spending time in a wilderness area. Just be sure to always take safety precautions.
[Edit]Warnings - Always use caution if you wade into a body of water. Rocks are often slippery and the riverbed is usually littered with unseen debris, meaning you could easily trip or slip and fall in the water. If you plan to wade, it's best to wear a lifejacket in case you do end up falling in.
- Find out the licensing requirements and any restrictions in place before you go fishing. Most wilderness areas are regularly patrolled by backcountry rangers who will write you a ticket if you don't have the necessary license or are fishing in restricted waters.
[Edit]References
[Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fix Wavy Book Pages Posted: 18 Jun 2020 09:00 AM PDT Wet book pages have a tendency to dry into wavy, folded patterns that can make them hard to read. If you accidentally got your favorite book wet or left it in a humid area, you don't have to go out and buy a new one! Instead, you can spend a few days making sure your book is really dry and then flattening it out to restore its pages and make your book readable again. [Edit]Drying Wet Pages - Put your book in the freezer if you don't have time to repair it now. If you need to wait a few days before starting to dry out your book, seal it in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer. This will stop any mold from growing and damaging your book pages further.[1]
- Make sure the plastic bag is airtight so that your book doesn't pick up any additional moisture from the freezer.
- Blot the pages with a paper towel to make sure they are dry. Grab some paper towels and insert them between the pages of your book every 10 to 20 pages. Press down on the book to soak up any residual moisture that might be left in the pages.[2]
- Drying the book beforehand will make sure the pages don't stick together.
- If your book has any mold on the pages, gently brush off any topical mold spores with a clean cloth and then set your book in the sun to dry out.
- Open up your book and stand it on its side. Carefully open your book pages up until your book is open at a 45-degree angle. Stand it up on a towel so that the pages stay fanned out. Use caution, as your book might be fragile.[3]
- Wet or water damaged books are prone to falling apart, so it's important to be careful when you handle them.
- Point a fan at the pages to dry it out overnight. Put the fan on low so that it doesn't ruffle the pages of your book too much. Leave your book with a fan pointed at it for 8 to 12 hours to ensure that it dries out all the way.[4]
- You can also set up a dehumidifier to dry out the pages even more, if you have one.
- Sandwich your book in between 2 boards. You can use whatever scrap wood you have on hand as long as it covers the book completely. Lay the book on its side with one board underneath it and one on top.[5]
- Plywood is a great wood to use for sandwiching your book, since it's pretty thin.
- Place heavy items, like bricks, on top of the top board. Make sure they are centered on the top board so your book is getting even pressure. You can also use cinder blocks if you don't have any bricks.[6]
- Point a fan or dehumidifier at your book to dry it out. As your book is being pressed, you can dry it out even more by circulating the air around it. Make sure you turn off any humidifiers in your home and close the windows so that your book stays cool and dry. Turn on a fan or a dehumidifier and place it in front of your book as it dries.[7]
- Try to keep your book out of the direct sunlight so that it doesn't get too hot.
- Leave your book for 1 to 2 days. Try not to disturb your book as it flattens out. Keep the heavy objects on top of the book for as long as you can.[8]
- If your book is still wavy, you can try leaving it pressed for longer.
- Keep your book pressed flat when you store it. If you can, try to put your book in between 2 book ends or a few other books so that it is being continually pressed flat. This will help flatten out the pages more and make sure your book pages stay in their new shape.[9]
[Edit]Flattening Pages with Heat - Spray a fine mist of water over the pages of your book. If your book has already been dry for a while, use a water bottle to get it slightly damp again. Make sure all of the pages are damp, but don't soak your book in water.[10]
- If you don't have a spray bottle, use a clean paint brush to dab water onto the book pages instead.
- Set your iron to the "no steam" setting. This will ensure that your iron doesn't add any more moisture to the book. Let your iron heat up for about 5 minutes before you start using it.[11]
- If you have an ironing board, you can set that up as well. Otherwise, you can make a small workstation on your table or counter top.
- Place a tissue over 1 page of the book. The tissue will help to protect the book page from any heat damage. If you don't have any tissues, you can also use a sheet of plain white paper.[12]
- Swipe your iron quickly over the tissue. Gently press your iron onto the tissue over your book and move it in a circular motion. Leave your iron on the tissue for about 3 seconds, then quickly pick it back up.[13]
- Don't leave your iron on top of the book pages for too long, or you could burn your book.
- Iron each page individually to flatten it out. Although it may take a while, this is the best way to flatten out each and every page of your book. Try to do each page at a time, because the iron won't be hot enough to flatten out 2 pages at once.[14]
- The sooner you start drying and pressing your book, the better it will look.
- Your book may never look how it did originally, but you can restore it partly.
[Edit]Warnings - If your damaged book is old or expensive, take it to a professional book repair shop.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Fixing a Wet Book - Paper towels
- Towel
- Fan
- 2 wooden boards
- Bricks or cinder blocks
- Dehumidifier
[Edit]Flattening Dry Pages with Heat - Spray bottle
- Iron
- Tissues
[Edit]References |
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