| How to Restore an Old Steering Wheel Posted: 16 Jul 2020 01:00 AM PDT With a little TLC, classic cars can stay in remarkably good shape. Unfortunately, the vintage plastics and composite materials once used to make steering wheels have a tendency to shrink, crack, and crumble with age, which can detract from a vehicle's overall value and visual appeal. The upshot is that with some strong epoxy paste and a bit of patience, restoring a steering wheel to its former glory is a relatively straightforward project. [Edit]Dismounting and Cleaning the Wheel - Disconnect your vehicle's battery if it's still hooked up. Before you get started, make sure your vehicle is safely parked and turned off completely. Pop the hood (or the trunk, as the case may be) and use a socket wrench of the appropriate size to loosen the nuts holding the connector cables to their respective terminals. Undo the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal.[1]
- The terminals of most automobile batteries are labelled for ease of identification—"+" stands for positive and "-" stands for negative. On batteries with color-coded terminal covers, red corresponds to positive, while black corresponds to negative.[2]
- If you attempt to disassemble the steering wheel with the battery still connected, the horn may sound unexpectedly and scare you half to death.
- Always disconnect the negative terminal first. Doing it the other way around can lead to sparking, which in the worst case scenario could cause the engine to explode![3]
- Remove the horn ring and mounting nut holding the steering wheel in place. Press down on the horn ring at the center of the wheel and twist it counterclockwise (left) to unscrew it. Use a suitably-sized wrench or socket to loosen the mounting nut beneath. Set both of these pieces aside somewhere you won't accidentally misplace them.[4]
- The horn rings on some older cars are spring-loaded, so turn the ring slowly and keep one hand on it at all times to prevent it from shooting off and disappearing into the cabin of the vehicle.
- It will be much easier for you to work on the wheel while it isn't attached.
- Fit a wheel puller tool onto the center of your steering wheel. Make sure that the device is aligned with the now-open slot in the middle of the wheel. Slip the 2 included fixing bolts through the slots on either side of the body of the puller and into the holes in the face of the steering hub. Tighten both bolts with your wrench or socket by turning them clockwise.[5]
- Make sure the wheel is perfectly centered before you pull it off. That way, you can guarantee that it's in the right position when it comes time to reinstall it.
- Tighten the tool's central bolt to remove the wheel from the steering shaft. Insert the third, larger bolt into the middle of the wheel puller and begin turning it clockwise, the same way you did the smaller fixing bolts. Applying gradual rotational force to the central bolt will cause the wheel to release from its seat, at which point you can simply slide it off.[6]
- In some cases, there may be an additional retaining nut behind the wheel that you'll have to undo before you can finish removing it. Remove this nut the same way you did the upper mounting nut.[7]
- Wipe the wheel with a mixture of warm water and mild liquid dish soap. Wet a soft, lint-free cloth or paper towel with the soap solution and scrub the wheel from top to bottom to remove accumulated dirt and grime. When you're done, saturate a second, clean cloth or paper towel with plain water and go back over the wheel to clear away the remaining soap solution.
- Place the cloth or paper towel in your palm and rotate your hand around the wheel as you go to make sure you're hitting the front and back edges of the wheel, as well.
- Spray the wheel with a paint prep solution and wipe it down a second time. Lay the wheel out on a plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or layer of newspapers to work cleanly and efficiently. Wet one side of the wheel with the spray and buff it thoroughly with a separate cloth or paper towel, then turn it over and repeat on the opposite side.[8]
- Pull on a pair of rubber gloves before you start spraying. That way, the oil on your skin won't be transferred to the wheel when you flip it over.[9]
- Paint prep sprays can be found at any automotive supply store. They're designed to cut through stubborn dirt, dust, and grime, as well as residue from leftover grease, wax, silicone, and polishing products.
[Edit]Building up Damaged Areas - Use a triangle file to widen small cracks along the wheel's outer surface. Fit one of the file's angled edges into each crack and run it back and forth using a moderate pressure. This will give the crack a neat, even V-shape, making it easier to fill in with the epoxy paste that you'll be using to rebuild the wheel.[10]
- You can pick up a triangle file at your local hardware store for around $10. They're useful tools to have around, and can come in handy for a variety of repair and restoration projects.
- A dremel tool will also work nicely to open up cracks, chips, gouges, and other worn areas.[11]
- Mix up a strong 2-part epoxy paste or putty. Most products come with separate containers of resin and hardener that form a thick, quick-drying paste when combined. Blend the components according to the instructions laid out on the packaging of the product you're working with.[12]
- You'll find a wide variety of epoxies and similar fillers at any hardware store, home improvement center, or auto supplier.
- You're free to use any type of epoxy that dries to a tough, durable finish. However, the product of choice for many car buffs is PC-7, which has been a staple of automotive restoration projects for over 60 years.[13]
- Fill in the damaged spots along the wheel with the epoxy. Dab the compound into the cracks and crevices using the same tool that you used to mix it. If your chosen product didn't come with its own applicator, wooden popsicle sticks and flexible plastic putty knives can both serve as great makeshift spreaders. Be sure to overfill each area slightly, as most epoxies have a tendency to shrink a bit as they dry. [14]
- One useful technique for applying putty-style epoxies is to pull off small pieces, roll them into thin strips, and press them into the areas you filed out using your fingertips.
- Shape the epoxy until it matches the contours of the steering wheel. If you're working with a paste, use your applicator to carefully distribute the compound and remove any excess, if necessary. Putties can simply be molded by hand. Take your time and work carefully. It's important for the wheel to have a smooth, consistent finish all the way around.[15]
- Don't worry about being too meticulous—you'll be sanding the wheel down to a more consistent texture a little later on.
- Allow the epoxy to dry for at least 24 hours. Under normal conditions, the majority of epoxies will harden to a paintable consistency in about one full day and cure completely within two. Avoid handling the wheel in the meantime. Touching the fresh compound could cause it to lose its shape, ruining all of your hard work.[16]
- Set the wheel on a flat, stable surface draped with a tarp, dropcloth, or layer of newspaper as it dries.
- Once in place, the epoxy will solidify and bond to the wheel, restoring its original structure.
[Edit]Sanding and Priming the Repaired Wheel - Sand the wheel to an even texture using a high-grit sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper around the edge of the wheel and glide it back and forth while applying light-to-moderate pressure. Focus on areas where the dried epoxy has expanded beyond the wheel's outer surface. A good sanding will not only do away with uneven spots but also encourage your cover-up paint to stick better.[17]
- Any sandpaper in the 120-220-grit range will work well for this task.[18]
- A rounded sanding block may make it easier to really dig into the wheel's hard-to-reach contours.
- Switch to an extra fine sandpaper to achieve as smooth a finish as possible. Once you're done with your preliminary sanding, repeat the process with a sheet of sandpaper in the 240-400-grit range. This will gently wear down the roughness of the dried epoxy and surrounding material, leaving the wheel almost as perfect as the day it came off the assembly line.[19]
- Afterwards, wipe the wheel with a damp cloth to remove the dust that's been produced by all the sanding you've been doing.
- Don't skip this second round of sanding. If you do, your finished paint job may not have the smooth, glossy luster that you're going for.
- Prep the wheel with an even coat of urethane-based automotive primer. For maximum efficiency and professional-grade results, load your primer into a high-powered spray gun. If one of these tools is outside your budget, you can also get the job done using an ordinary spray can. Hold your sprayer away from the wheel and wave it back and forth from various angles to coat the entire outer surface. Allow the primer to dry for about one full hour before proceeding.[20]
- Your neighborhood auto supply store should have a large selection of automotive paints and primers to choose from.
- Strap on a facemask or respirator to avoid breathing in harmful fumes. It's also a good idea to park your vehicle outside or open the door to your garage to make sure that your work space is properly ventilated.[21]
[Edit]Painting and Sealing for a Seamless Finish - Spray on your first coat of paint and let it dry for at least 20 minutes. Apply your paint the same way you did the initial primer, positioning your sprayer at a distance of and moving it constantly. This technique will provide the optimum balance between depth of color and distribution.[22]
- Pick out a high-performance enamel or single-stage urethane automotive paint that will hold up to years of regular use. You'll have no shortage of options when it comes to color.[23]
- Remember to wear gloves to keep the color from staining your exposed skin.
- Follow up with 1-4 additional coats, waiting 20 minutes between each. Plan on using a minimum of 2 coats total (though most automotive experts recommend 4-5 total for best results). Layering multiple light coats, as opposed to a slapping on a single heavy coat, will guarantee maximum coverage without creating drips or streaks.[24]
- You may need to increase your drying time slightly as the paint continues to build up. If your later coats still look wet at the 20-minute mark, play it safe and give them 5-10 extra minutes. This will reduce your chances of seeing imperfections in the top coat.
- Apply 1-3 coats of clear sealant to protect the new finish. Hold the can of sealant away from the wheel and everywhere that you've applied new paint. Allot at least 15 minutes of drying time between coats. Once the final coat cures completely, all that's left to do is remount your steering wheel and marvel at how new it looks![25]
- Choose a sealant that's formulated specifically for use on automobile parts and accessories, or the particular type of paint that you're working with.
- Don't forget to reconnect your vehicle's battery upon concluding your project. This time around, start with the positive terminal, then attach the negative terminal.[26]
- At its core, restoring a vintage steering wheel is essentially just like any other painting project: first you'll strip, then you'll prime, and, last but not least, you'll slap on your paint.
- Browse Internet forums, auto restoration blogs, and similar resources for more specific tool and material recommendations, as well as some friendly advice from experienced grease monkeys who have already been around the block a time or two.
[Edit]Warnings - The methods described here won't work for newer leather-wrapped or rubber-coated steering wheels, unless you're willing to remove the old covering entirely.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Adjustable wrench or socket set
- Wheel puller tool
- Warm water
- Mild liquid dish soap
- Spray-on paint prep solution
- Rubber gloves
- Lint-free cloths or paper towels
- Plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or newspaper
- Triangle file or dremel tool
- 2-part epoxy paste or putty
- Plastic tarp, canvas dropcloth, or newspaper
- 120-220-grit sandpaper
- 240-400-grit sandpaper
- Urethane-based automotive primer
- High-performance enamel or single-stage urethane automotive paint
- Spray-on clear coat sealant
- Rubber gloves
- Facemask or respirator
- Painter's tape
- Wooden popsicle stick or flexible plastic putty knife (optional)
- Contoured sanding block (optional)
- High-powered paint sprayer (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Hang a Plate Posted: 15 Jul 2020 05:00 PM PDT Plates can be a beautiful wall accent in any room, but you may be worried about your favorite flatware shifting and breaking in the process. Thankfully, there are plenty of ways to decorate with plates while keeping security in mind! Take a few minutes to figure out a design plan for your wall so you can hang and display your plates with the hook or adhesive of your choice. [Edit]Positioning the Plates - Find some open wall space where you can fit a few plates. Look through your dining room, bedroom, or other living space where you can fit some plates on the wall. You can use any kind of open wall space for this, whether it's above a door directly above a sofa. Use whatever decisions you have on hand—you can make a simple, minimalist statement with just 1 hanging plate, or you can hang up a collection of decorative plates to create a fun design scheme.[1]
- For instance, you can display some fancy china on 1 wall in your dining room, or you can create a fun decorative accent over your bed.
- You can alternate different plate patterns on the wall, like a large plate with a fun rim and a small plate with an intense pattern.
- Plate shape is also important to consider when you're displaying flatware! You can make a serving plate the centerpiece of your design with several smaller plates placed around it.
- Trace the plate on a sheet of craft paper. Flip your plate upside down so the curved portion is touching the craft paper. Lightly sketch around the edge of the plate with a pencil so you can get an idea of how much space it'll take up on the wall.[2]
- Any kind of scrap paper can work for this, like printer or paper or newspaper.
- Cut out templates for all the plates you plan on hanging. Set the cut-out circle or oval aside, then trace and cut out a template for your other plates as well. Repeat this process for all the flatware that you'd like to hang up in your living space.[3]
- Tape the template on your wall. Find a spot on your wall where you'd like your plate to go, then secure it in place with painter's tape. Arrange the other plate templates along your wall, using painter's tape to hold these in place as well.[4]
- Templates help you figure out where your plates will go before you actually hang them up.
- Rearrange your taped templates until you've decided on a place to put them. Take a few steps back and examine your handiwork. Check if the plate templates seem centered, or if they need to be moved around a bit. Space your plates apart so your design looks really cohesive and uniform.[5]
- For instance, you can position your plates in a diamond shape if you have a lot of space.
- Alternate different plate shapes and sizes to give your display a more unique look. For instance, you can use an oval-shaped serving plate as your centerpiece, then arrange small circular plates around it.
[Edit]Securing the Plates to the Wall - Attach a nail or hook to your wall that lines up with the center of the plate. Examine the paper plate template on your wall to get an idea of where the nail or hook should go. Remove the template and place your hook or nail where the upper middle section of the plate would be.[6]
- You don't want the hook or nail to be visible behind the plate after you hang it up.
- Use an adhesive plate hanger to make your plate look like it's floating. Create a seamless design with an adhesive plate hanger, which looks like a circular piece of yellow paper. Dip your fingers into some lukewarm water and rub the back of the hanger to get it sticky, then center the adhesive hanger on your plate with the metal loop straight up. Rub your fingers along the back of the adhesive for several seconds so it stays on the plate. Once the adhesive is in place, dangle the metal loop over a nail or adhesive hook. [7]
- Adhesive plate hangers look like a large circle attached to a metal loop. You can find them online.
- Invest in spring-style hangers as a sleek way to display your plates. Go for an elegant display with a spring-style hanger, which holds your plate in place with springs and hooks. Place the spring hanger on the table with the hooks facing up. Hold the plate face-up and slide it beneath the top 2 hooks. Secure the bottom of the plate along the bottom 2 hooks. At this point, place the hanger on a hook so your plate can be on full display.[8]
- You can find spring-style hangers online. The hooks are easy to adjust after you've secured them around the top and bottom edge of your plate.
- Hang your plates with hot glue and safety pins as a budget option. Grab a closed safety pin and arrange it along the back, bottom portion of your plate. Hot glue the thicker end of the safety pin to the top of your plate, then place the circular part of the pin over a hook or nail on the wall. Double-check that the glue is completely dry and that the safety pin is sturdy, or else your plate may shift and fall.[9]
- This is a good solution if you don't have any other plate hanger on hand, but you may not want to use it with your finest china and flatware.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Craft paper
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Painter's tape
- Adhesive plate hanger
- Spring-style plate hanger
- Safety pins
- Hot glue
[Edit]References |
| How to Tie an Adjustable Knot Posted: 15 Jul 2020 09:00 AM PDT Whether you're making a friendship bracelet or needing to tie your camping gear to a post, knowing how to make an adjustable knot is a really useful skill. While there are dozens of different kinds of adjustable knots, the sliding knot and the slip knot will give you a great basis for all your adjustable-knot-tying needs. Knots can be tricky, so be patient and give it some time—with practice, you can learn how to make these knots by memory! [Edit]Securing a Sliding Knot - Bend one end of the rope back about to create a half-loop. This should give you enough space to easily create your knot without running out of room. When you bend back the end of the rope, you'll create 2 parallel lines.[1]
- This type of knot is great for making bracelets, necklaces, or other types of crafting projects. It lets you easily adjust the length and put on or remove pieces of jewelry even if there isn't a clasp.
- You can tie these types of knots with rope, thread, yarn, string, or even flexible wire.
- It may be helpful to lay your rope out on a table in front of you if you can. This will help you see your work more easily.
- Take the opposite end of the rope and pull it under the loop you made. While holding the 2 parallel lines in place, grab the other end of the rope. Tuck it under the loop you made and pull it so that it's in the middle and creates a third parallel line.[2]
- Remember that if you get tripped up, you can always start again! Learning to tie new knots can be tricky, but you'll get it with enough practice.
- Pull the bottom piece of rope behind the top 2 parallel lines. The bottom piece of rope is the original end that you bent back to create a half-loop. Bring it underneath the other 2 pieces of rope so that it's pointing upward.[3]
- Be sure to keep a firm grip on the rope so that you don't lose your place or get the pieces mixed up.
- Wrap the end of the rope around the other lines 3 times. Wrap the rope in the direction of the end of the semi-loop. This makes that loop smaller, which will form the end of your knot.[4]
- As you're wrapping the rope around, you will end up essentially wrapping it around itself, too. This is what holds all the pieces together and creates the sliding function that you want for your craft.
- Pass the end of the rope through the small remaining loop. Carefully grab the very end of the rope and pull it down through the loop. Keep a hold on the end of the rope as well as on the body of the knot so that it doesn't come apart at this pivotal point.[5]
- If you find that the end of the rope is too short to pass through the loop, undo the knot and start again with a longer tail.
- Pull the rope while pushing the loops forward to tighten the knot. You'll be pulling and pushing both sections in the same direction to secure the knot rather than pulling them apart from each other. Keep doing this until that small loop you passed the rope through is the same size as the other loops.[6]
- Be sure to tug these parts as tightly as possible; otherwise, that end of the rope could pass back through the loop, causing your knot to come undone.
- Repeat the knot-making process on the opposite end of the rope. Holding the rope in your hand, slide the existing knot down the rope to create an piece of rope. Fold that back on itself at the halfway point so that the end of the rope is pointing toward the existing knot. Repeat the wrapping step and pull the end of the rope through the newly created loop, tightening it to secure the second knot.[7]
- Remember to pull the end of the rope down through the loop to create the end of the knot.
- Trim any excess material from the ends of the rope to make it look neater. Use a pair of scissors to cut away the excess rope from either end. You'll want to leave about of rope to ensure that the knot won't accidentally come undone.[8]
- If you don't mind the excess material hanging off, you can skip this step.
- Pull the knots or the rope to change the length of the piece. Pull on both sides of the rope to bring the knots closer together and make your piece longer. Pull on both knots to slide them away from each other and make the piece shorter.[9]
- Now that you know how to make an adjustable knot for crafts, you'll be able to create lots of great pieces for yourself and friends!
[Edit]Tying a Slip Knot - Bend the end of the rope back on itself to create 2 parallel lines. The length of rope you'll need to bend back will depend on the object you need to secure it to. You could wrap the rope around the object and then add another or so to ensure you have enough space to work.[10]
- This type of knot is great for securing a rope to some kind of stationary object, like a post.
- The slip knot is also often used in crocheting and knitting.
- Pull the end of the rope over and under the top section of rope. It may be helpful to hold the middle of the rope where it's bent with two fingers, just to keep the strands separated. Loop the end of the rope around the top piece so that the end is still facing the same direction.[11]
- If you're going camping or rock climbing and know that you need to be able to tie some basic knots, practice a few times before leaving so that you can tie knots without needing instructions.
- Reach through the loop and grab the middle section with your 2 fingers. Keep a hold of the end of the rope with your other hand. Pull the middle section back through the loop to begin creating the body of your knot.[12]
- If you want extra security for your knot, you could always loop the end of the rope around the top section 2-3 more times.
- Pull the loop and the end of the rope apart from each other to tighten the knot. Simply tug the loop you created and the end of the rope several times to finish making your slip knot. It would be very hard to make the knot too tight, so don't worry about overdoing it.[13]
- This is a super basic slip knot. There are variations you can learn that are more advanced, like an uni knot.
- Tighten or loosen the loop by sliding the knot up and down the rope. To make the loop looser, pull on it to move the knot up the rope. To tighten the loop, push the knot toward it so it gets less slack.[14]
- Play around with this knot to see how it works and get more familiar with it. It can be used for lots of different things and is a handy knot to know.
- There are lots of different knots you can learn to tie. If you're going rock climbing or doing something where your safety is involved, make sure to do your research so you know how to accurately and safely make the necessary knots.
[Edit]References |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário