| How to Cover Light Switch Plates with Scrapbook Paper Posted: 17 Jul 2020 01:00 AM PDT Light switch plates can stick out distractingly as white rectangles on colorful walls, or just boringly blend in on neutral-colored walls. But it's easy to add some pizzazz to your switch plates! Grab some scrapbook paper with a fun design, a bottle of Mod Podge, and a few crafting tools, then get to work turning your switch plates into DIY creations that complement your room decor perfectly. [Edit]Covering the Front of the Switch Plate - Remove the existing light switch plate or buy a matching plate. Switch plates are held in place by one or more screws, depending on the style. Use a flat-head screwdriver to turn the screw(s) counterclockwise, save the screw(s) for later, and pull the switch plate away from the wall.[1]
- If you buy a new switch plate, make sure it's the same size (or larger) and has the same layout as the current plate.
- If the plate is stuck in place due to paint on the wall, run the sharp tip of a crafting knife all around the edge of the plate where it meets the wall.
- It's not necessary to turn off the power to the switch at your home's main electrical panel, but it does make the job that much safer.
- Trace the switch plate's outline on your chosen scrapbook paper. Lay the scrapbook paper upside-down on your work surface, then lay the switch plate right-side-up on it. Trace the outline of the plate on the back of the paper with a pencil.[2]
- To make cleanup easier, place a sheet of wax paper or aluminum foil on your work surface. It isn't absolutely necessary quite yet, but it will come in handy once you start applying the Mod Podge adhesive!
- Don't worry about tracing the cutouts for the switches, plugs, or screws at this time.
- In addition to scrapbook paper, heavy-duty wrapping paper also works well with this technique.
- Enlarge the tracing by and cut it out. Move the switch plate out of the way, then use a ruler to create a new outline that's about larger on all 4 sides. Cut out this larger outline with crafting scissors.[3]
- Your tracing and cutting don't need to be perfectly neat at this point.
- Brush a full coat of Mod Podge on the front of the switch plate. Dip your small crafting paintbrush into the jar of sticky white Mod Podge and apply it to the entire face of the switch plate. Use steady pressure and long strokes to get complete, even coverage.[4]
- Mod Podge is the brand name for a crafting decoupage used to attach and protect paper materials. There are many types of Mod Podge available at crafting stores and online, but Mod Podge Original is the best option for this application.
- It's also okay to use an alternate brand of decoupage product, though some crafters swear by Mod Podge!
- Lay the paper cutout upside-down and hold the switch plate over it. Carefully position the switch plate so that it's centered and aligned with the cutout. This is particularly important if the paper has a design on it, such as vertical stripes, that need to be lined up correctly with the switch plate.[5]
- Mod Podge doesn't dry immediately, so you will have a bit of time to make some minor adjustments if the design on the paper isn't quite lined up correctly.
- Smooth the paper onto the front of the switch plate. Keep the switch plate lined up as you press it down onto the paper. Flip both items over and use your fingers to smooth the scrapbook paper evenly over the entire face of the switch plate. Work out any wrinkles or air bubbles with your fingertip.[6]
- The paper will cover all the cutouts in the switch plate for screws, light switches, and outlets. That's okay at this point—you'll cut away this excess paper later.
[Edit]Securing the Edges and Cutouts - Cut slits from each corner of the paper to the matching corner of the plate. Flip the switch plate over again so you're looking at the underside. Using sharp crafting scissors, cut a slit that runs from each corner of the paper cutout to the same-side corner of the switch plate.[7]
- These 4 corner slits will allow you to fold the excess paper over the edges of the switch plate.
- Add more Mod Podge to the edges of the switch plate's underside. Brush an even coat around the entire inside perimeter of the plate. This ensures that the excess paper that you're about to fold over will stick securely in place.[8]
- Alternatively, brush the Mod Podge onto the edges of the paper before you fold them over the edges of the switch plate. The important things is to make sure there's a layer of Mod Podge between the paper and the switch plate in all spots.
- Smooth the paper all the way over the plate's outer edges. Working one side at a time, fold the excess paper over the edge of the switch plate, then use your fingertips to pinch, press, and smooth it securely into place. Take extra care at the 4 corners where you cut the slits into the paper, so that the paper smooths out evenly at each corner.[9]
- No one will see the underside of the wall plate, so the edge of the paper doesn't need to look perfect—it just needs to stick!
- Cut "X"s and slits though the paper covering any small switch cutouts. With the switch plate still upside-down on the work surface, you'll see the underside of the scrapbook paper at each of the plate's light switch, plug, and screw cutouts. For small, traditional light switch cutouts, use your crafting knife to cut an "X" into the paper that runs from corner to corner inside each cutout. Then, cut a small vertical slit in the center of the "X."[10]
- Make "X"s and smaller cutouts at large switch or plug openings. For bigger cutouts for plugs or larger, modern-style switches, cut a corner-to-corner "X" through the paper in the same fashion. Then, cut away the center of the "X" in the shape of the cutout. Aim to leave about of excess paper along the entire interior perimeter of the cutout.[11]
- Smooth the paper over the edges of the switch and plug openings. If needed, brush a bit more Mod Podge around the perimeter of each cutout. Then, fold over the excess paper and smooth it out on the underside of the switch plate. When you're finished, the cutouts should be the same shape and size they were before you added the Mod Podge and paper.[12]
- Don't worry about the small cutouts for the mounting screws. Deal with them later.
- Hold the paper on the edges with paper clips while the Mod Podge dries. With the switch plate still face-down, grab a handful of small metal or plastic paper clips. Slide the clips over the lip that runs along the outer perimeter of the plate, as well as around each of the cutouts. Space them about apart.[13]
- The clips help to ensure that the edges of the paper don't lift away before the Mod Podge dries.
- Let the Mod Podge dry for 30-60 minutes before proceeding. Simply leave the switch plate face-side down on your workspace. Keep the paper clips in place during this time.[14]
- Mod Podge usually dries completely within 30 minutes, but it may take longer in humid conditions.
[Edit]Finishing and Mounting the Plate - Brush a light, even finish coat of Mod Podge over the attached paper. Focus more carefully on your technique with this layer than you may have done with the adhesive layer of Mod Podge. Use a light touch and long, steady brush strokes that all go in the same direction. The ensures that you'll get a light, even protective coat that will be barely noticeable once it dries.[15]
- While Mod Podge Original—or a competitor's equivalent product—will work fine as a protective coat, you may get better results with Mod Podge Hard Coat.
- Let the finish coat dry for 30-60 minutes before proceeding. The Mod Podge will be clear and glossy once it dries. A single finish coat is sufficient, but you can add a second coat at this point if you wish.[16]
- Adding a second finish coat will make it a bit more glossy.
- Poke small holes with a safety pin for the screw openings. Once the protective coat of Mod Podge dries, hold the switch plate face-down in your hand. Poke the tip of a safety pin through all of the screw holes—and the paper that's covering them. Turn the switch plate over and use a ballpoint pen to enlarge the holes slightly.[17]
- If you don't have a safety pin, a toothpick will do the job equally well.
- Unlike with the cutouts for the switches and plugs, you don't need to be precise here—you just need to make some holes! The screws will conceal your work in this case.
- Secure the switch plate in place with the mounting screws. Slip the switch plate over the plugs and switches at the wall outlet. With the plate flush against the wall, use a screwdriver to secure all the mounting screws in place. Hand-tighten the screws, but don't over-tighten them or you may crack the plastic switch plate.[18]
- Congratulations—your first decorative switch plate is all done! Now go tackle a few more!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Light switch plate
- Scrapbook paper
- Screwdriver
- Crafting knife
- Crafting scissors
- Ruler
- Ballpoint pen
- Mod Podge (or similar decoupage product)
- Crafting paintbrush
- Paper clips
- Safety pin
[Edit]References |
| How to Remove Primer Posted: 16 Jul 2020 05:00 PM PDT Primer can be incredibly difficult to take off, but with enough force and enough patience, you can usually remove primer from most surfaces. Different surfaces do require different techniques, though, so you should familiarize yourself with each one to approach the problem area correctly. [Edit]Choosing the Right Stripping Agent - Opt for a caustic stripper to remove primer from concrete or brick. Caustic stripper is a thick, gum-like substance that contains lye. A caustic stripper will not remove primer from plastic and it may be alright with wood, but it is perfect for masonry. Pick up a caustic stripper if you want to strip a brick wall, clean up a primer spill on concrete, or strip paint off of a driveway or sidewalk.[1]
- You must neutralize caustic strippers after you've used them, so pick up plenty of white vinegar ahead of time if you're stripping a larger surface area.
- Popular caustic strippers include Betco's Extreme, Bolt Ultra Concentrated, and Fiberlock's NexStrip. This stuff usually comes in a plastic bucket.
- Choose a biochemical paint stripper to clean primer off of wood. Biochemical stripper is the safest option available since it uses plant-based ingredients to erode paint or primer. This makes it the safest option for wood, but it may not be strong enough for metal, concrete, or stronger surfaces.[2]
- This type of stripper is the least likely to damage your surface. If you have primer on a model airplane, piece of art, or some other delicate surface, try using a biochemical stripper first.
- Citri-Strip is probably the most popular biochemical paint stripper, but SmartStrip and Franmar are great options as well. These strippers often come in plastic containers that resemble laundry detergent or insecticide.
- Get heavy-duty solvent for metal, plastic, or to take stubborn primer off. If the primer is especially thick, old, or you have primer on a metal or plastic surface, get a heavy-duty paint stripper. Heavy-duty paint stripper is extremely strong, but it'll get primer off of basically any surface. Keep in mind, this stuff is really toxic so you shouldn't use it unless you have to.[3]
- Heavy-duty solvent will also work on wood or masonry, but this is overkill.
- When it comes to paint strippers, heavy-duty is typically code for high-VOC. VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, are pretty toxic so work in a well-ventilated area and put on safety gear when using this kind of stripper.
- Heavy-duty solvents include Dumond's Peel-Away, Old Masters, and Klean-Strip, which is probably the most popular option. These solvents usually come in an aluminum can.
[Edit]Applying the Stripper - Put on protective eyewear, a dust mask, and thick rubber gloves. Get some protective airtight goggles to keep the fumes out of your eyes. Wear thick rubber gloves over long sleeves to keep the stripper off of your skin. If you're using a caustic or biochemical stripper, put on a dust mask. If you're using heavy-duty solvent, wear a respirator.[4]
- Lay a tarp down if you're stripping primer off of an object or want to keep stripper off of the floor.
- Spread the stripper on the surface with a disposable paintbrush. Open the stripping agent's container and pour it into a paint tray. Grab a cheap, disposable paint brush and dip it into the stripping agent. Spread the stripping agent over the surface using back and forth strokes. If you're stripping wood, apply it in the direction of the grain. Otherwise, go back and forth in any direction to cover the surface.[5]
- Most stripping agents are pretty thick. You may need to reload your brush every 4-5 strokes to keep it from drying out.
- Build up a layer of stripping agent on the primer. Reload your brush as needed and continue spreading the stripping over the surface. Cover every crack, textured surface, or gap in the material to completely cover the primer. Continue spreading the stripper around until you build up a layer of stripper on the surface.[6]
- Heavy-duty solvents typically require thin layers. You won't need to build up more than a layer of stripper on the surface for this agent to be effective.
- Caustic and biochemical strippers often need to be built up in a thicker layer. Read the label to see how thick of a layer you need. Often, you'll need a layer of stripper to remove primer.
- Lay plastic sheeting over the surface if it came with your stripping agent. Some caustic strippers and a few heavy-duty strippers need to be covered with plastic sheets to work the stripper into the material. If your stripping agent came in a kit with plastic sheets, you must use them. To apply these sheets, spread your first sheet out by hand and press it against the surface you're stripping. Smooth it out with your palms and press out any air bubbles. The plastic sheeting will automatically adhere to the surface.[7]
- These sheets force the stripper into pores in the surface material. This is particularly important if you're removing primer from brick.
- Wait 30 minutes to 12 hours for the stripper to soak into the primer. The soaking time is listed on your container, so read the label thoroughly to make sure you don't miss anything. Typically, the stronger the stripping agent, the less time it needs to soak. Wait 30 minutes to 12 hours depending on what the label says to give the stripping agent time to eat away the primer.[8]
- You won't see the primer falling off of the surface or anything. All the stripper does is weaken the primer to make it easier to remove.
[Edit]Scraping and Washing the Surface - Use a paint scraper, putty knife, or razor blade to scrape the primer off. Put all of your protective gear back on. Grab a putty knife or paint scraper if you're removing the stripper from wood or masonry. Opt for a razor blade to peel the stripper off of metal or plastic. Drag the blade of your scraping tool at a 15- to 25-degree angle to the surface to peel the stripper and primer off. Work in vertical or horizontal strips to remove the layers of stripping agent and primer. Continue doing this until the primer and dried out stripping agent is completely gone.[9]
- The stripper will have hardened, so you can work in any order you'd like. You can peel the primer off in vertical or horizontal strips, or work in sections until the surface is entirely clean.
- You may need to use a wire brush after you scrape porous surfaces, like brick or concrete.
- This can take a while if you're removing primer from a larger surface area. Unfortunately, there aren't any easier ways to do this.
- Neutralize the surface in water and vinegar if required by the stripper. Read the label of your stripping agent to see if you need to neutralize the surface when you're done. If you do, fill a spray bottle with 1-part white vinegar and 1-part tap water. Thoroughly spray the surface area with your vinegar mixture to neutralize the acid from the paint stripper. Let the vinegar soak for a minute or two while you get a testing strip out.[10]
- If you have a smaller object, you can soak it in the vinegar solution for 3-5 minutes if you prefer.
- Most heavy-duty and caustic stripping agents need to be neutralized. Most biochemical strippers do not.
- You cannot neutralize the paint stripper with water alone. This will only spread the acidic agent around on the surface.[11]
- Test the surface with a pH testing strip if you neutralized it. Get a pH testing strip and lay it down on a damp portion of the surface you stripped. Let the liquid soak into the strip and wait for the strip to change colors. Use the color-coded reference chart to assess what the pH of your surface is. If it's at, or relatively close to, 7 pH, you're done. If the acidity is still too high, mist, wash, or soak the surface in more water and white vinegar before testing it again.[12]
- Any reading lower than a 6.5 pH is considered too acidic. If the surface has an acidic pH, it means that the stripping agent left a residue behind. Your surface may weaken or discolor over time and you may get acidic residue on your hands if you touch the surface.
- Clean the surface in water or mineral spirits if you didn't neutralize it. If your stripper's container doesn't mention anything about neutralizing it, read the label to see if you need to wash the surface with mineral spirits. If you do, pick up some mineral spirits and rinse the surface with them. Otherwise, use regular tap water to rinse the area. Just hose down the surface or pour water over the material to wash off the remaining stripping agent.[13]
- This is an important safety measure. If you don't neutralize the surface, you must wash it off. If you skip this step, you could end up burning your skin the next time you touch the surface.
- Be careful if you're working with mineral spirits. Wear protective eyewear and a dust mask. If you get any spirits on your hands, wash them thoroughly with soap and water.[14]
- Let the surface air out until it's completely dry. The amount of time it takes for the surface to dry depends on the material. Metal and plastic willy typically dry pretty quickly, but wood and masonry may take up to 24 hours. Just wait until the surface is completely dry before touching it or doing anything else.[15]
- You can open windows, turn fans on, or let an object sit out in the sun to speed this process up.
- For automotive primer, pick up a clay bar from your local automotive store. This is a putty-like product that soaks up primer overspray. Rip the clay bar apart, rub it together in your hands like putty, and rub it into the primer to lift it off.[16]
- If you get primer on your skin, use coconut oil or olive oil to wipe it off.[17]
- If you're working with PVC primer, you can remove purple primer with clear primer. Just pour a can of clear primer on top of the purple primer. Grab a clean cloth and wipe the primer mixture up. The purple PVC primer will absorb into the clear primer and it'll come right off.[18]
[Edit]Warnings - Never use a stripping agent without wearing rubber gloves, protective eyewear, and a dust mask or respirator.[19]
- You must neutralize the surface you removed primer from if you used a high-VOC or caustic stripper.[20]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Choosing the Right Stripping Agent - Caustic stripper
- Biochemical paint stripper
- Heavy-duty paint stripping solvent
[Edit]Applying the Stripper - Protective eyewear
- Rubber gloves
- Long-sleeve clothing
- Dust mask or respirator
- Paint tray
- Paintbrush
- Drop cloth (optional)
- Plastic sheeting (optional)
[Edit]Scraping and Washing the Surface - Paint scraper, putty knife, or razor blade
- Water
- Vinegar
- Mineral spirits or water
- Wire brush (optional)
[Edit]References |
| How to Prepare Soil for Planting Herbs Posted: 16 Jul 2020 09:00 AM PDT Most herbs thrive in light, well-drained soil with a neutral pH and average nutrient levels. If you want to plant your herbs in ideal conditions for the best growth and flavor, test your soil quality in the spring before you start planting anything. If your tests show that the soil's pH, nutrients, or drainage aren't ideal, don't worry! There are plenty of simple amendments you can make to modify your soil and get it ready to produce a healthy crop of herbs. [Edit]Testing and Amending the Soil - Wait until spring and choose a sunny spot for your herb garden. Begin prepping your garden space in the spring once it starts warming up a bit. Since most herbs do best in full sunlight, which is 6-8 hours daily, be sure to select a nice, bright area for your garden.[1]
- The quality and flavor of herbs are best when they're grown in full sun.
- Some herbs may tolerate partial shade, so be sure to check the specifics on each seed packet. For example, angelica, woodruff, sweet cicely, parsley, and mint grow well in partial shade.[2]
- Dig a hole deep and fill it with water to test soil drainage. Grab a shovel and dig a hole that's about deep and wide. Use your hose to fill the hole with water and let it sit overnight to saturate the soil. The following day, fill it up with water again and check the hole every hour to measure the water level as it drains. Ideal soil will drain about per hour.[3]
- Well-drained soil is crucial for growing herbs. If your soil has poor drainage, don't worry! You can amend the soil to make it more hospitable for herbs.
- Typically, loamy and sandy soils work best for herbs. Clay soils tend to be heavy and have poor drainage.[4]
- Some light sandy soils drain too quickly, but you can add organic matter to the soil to improve moisture retention.
- Mix in of organic matter to enrich soil and improve drainage or retention. Shovel and overturn the dirt, breaking up any large clumps as you go. Remove any weeds that you find. Then, add your organic matter to the soil and mix it in well with your shovel or a hoe until it's fully fully incorporated.[5]
- For average soils, use peat moss, coconut husks, or compost to improve the drainage. Mix it into the top of soil thoroughly with a shovel or hoe.[6]
- To improve drainage in clay soils, add of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, or coarse compost.
- Improve the moisture retention of light, sandy soils with of fine pine bark, compost, or leaf mold.[7]
- Use a store-bought soil pH test to check for a pH range between 6 and 7. Most herbs do best in neutral soil that is neither too alkaline nor too acidic. Buy a soil pH testing kit at your local nursery and follow the included instructions to measure the pH level of your soil.[8]
- A pH range of 6.5-7 is optimal, but anything between 6 and 7 is neutral enough for most herbs.[9]
- Add agricultural lime or dolomite to the soil if your pH reading was too low. Purchase lime or dolomite at a garden center or nursery. Reference the application ratio on the lime package to see how much to add to your soil. Mix lime into soil and incorporate thoroughly with a spade or tiller.[10]
- You may want to opt for a lighter application of lime if you are unsure which ratio to use. Over-application of lime can be very difficult to correct.
- Wait a few days for the lime to fully incorporate before planting anything.
- You can run another soil test to confirm that the pH is improved.
- Lower the soil's pH by mixing sphagnum peat into the soil. If your soil pH is too high, the easiest way to lower it is by mixing in organic matter like sphagnum peat. Spread a layer of sphagnum peat over your garden plot and work it into the top of soil.[11]
- If you want to make sure pH is in the right range after amending the soil, quickly run another soil test.
- Check the soil's nutrient levels with a store-bought soil test. Your pH test may also test nutrient levels, so be sure to check the test's packaging. If it doesn't, get a separate soil nutrient test at a garden center. Follow the included directions to find out how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are present in the soil. The test results will show if the soil is low, average, or high in these 3 key nutrients.[12]
- This test doesn't give you an actual score or number. It provides a range from low to high, indicates the ideal level, and tells you where your soil falls on the spectrum.
- Once you know the nutrient levels, you can amend the soil to raise or lower nutrients, as needed.
- If your soil has adequate levels of these 3 nutrients already, you don't need to do anything to reduce nutrient levels. Just be sure to avoid adding fertilizer to the soil during the growing season.[13]
- Apply a fertilizer to replenish any nutrients that your soil needs. If your test shows that the soil lacks nutrients, choose a liquid or granular commercial fertilizer that will replenish it. Start with low strength fertilizers and move up to stronger fertilizers, if needed, according to your soil test results. Always follow the fertilizer's instructions and use the correct amount for your garden size and soil type.[14]
- If you are deficient in just 1 nutrient, buy fertilizer to boost that nutrient without affecting the others.
- You may need another application of fertilizer during the growing season if the herbs aren't doing well. If your herbs are thriving, avoid fertilizing again.
[Edit]Tilling the Soil and Preparing Beds - Moisten the soil in the planting area lightly with a garden hose. Moist soil makes tilling much easier and more effective. You don't need to drench the soil with water so that it turns into mud, though! Just dampen the top of the soil a bit with your garden hose before you dig in with your garden spade or tiller.[15]
- Use a garden spade or tiller to loosen the top of soil. For a small or medium-sized backyard herb garden, you can easily turn the earth manually with a garden spade. Thrust the spade into the ground, scoop up the earth, and turn the spade upside down to break up the soil. Work the soil to a depth of and cover the entire garden area.[16]
- Remove any rocks or hard clods of dirt as you turn the soil over.
- If you're planting a large field of herbs, it might be easier to turn the soil with a tiller.
- Shovel or rake the soil into beds that are high. Raised beds can be helpful if the ground is low, the soil drains poorly, or you live in a wet climate. Rake the soil into rows that are high and as long as you'd like. Then, level the top of each row with a shovel or rake to make the beds about wide.[17]
- You can make your raised beds even more pronounced by framing the planting area with plywood or rocks several inches high. Then, fill the area with soil and plant your herb seeds or seedlings as you normally would.[18]
- Raised beds also increase the soil temperature, which most herbs will love.
- Plant your chosen herbs on top of the prepared beds. Be sure to check the seed packet instructions for details on adequate spacing and depth for each herb type, how often to water the herbs, and so on. Plant the herbs in the center of each bed.[19]
- If you'd prefer to plant seedlings that you bought from a nursery, check for a little flag stuck in each seedling's pot that has planting instructions. You can also look up the herbs online to find planting instructions!
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Garden spade or tiller
- Shovel or hoe
- Soil pH test
- Soil nutrient test
- Herb seeds of your choice
- Organic matter (peat moss, pine bark, compost, well-rotted manure)
- Lime or dolomite (optional)
- Garden spade or tiller
- If you are growing herbs in containers, the soil's nutrients will gradually leach out as you water the pots. You can help improve the soil by adding commercial fertilizer.
- Herbs that thrive in moist soils include: most varieties of mint, lovage, and angelica.
- Plant mint varieties separately from your other herbs since they can be very invasive.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
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