| How to Do the Merengue Posted: 07 Jul 2020 01:00 AM PDT The merengue is a fast-paced Dominican dance that you can do with a partner or on your own. Any new dance takes practice to learn, but the merengue has some pretty basic steps that aren't hard to memorize. Once you've got the essential elements down, you can have fun adding turns and twists to your dance with a partner. [Edit]Trying the Basics - March in place on every beat.[1] If you're following, start marching with your right foot. If you're leading, start marching with your left. For every count of the beat, march 1 step.[2]
- You don't need to pick your feet up very high—about is all you need to march in place.
- Bend both knees slightly as you pick your feet up. To give yourself a little bounce, keep your knees bent as you make each movement. Try not to lock your knees up, or you might look stiff. The merengue is all about fluid, even motion.[3]
- Keeping your knees bent will also help you keep your steps going in one fluid motion.
- Shift your weight to the foot you're stepping down on. For each step that you take, naturally let your hip fall down in time with your feet as you shift your weight. You don't need an excessive hip shaking or gyrating—just that natural hip movement that takes place when you shift weight.[4]
- Your hips may move slightly up and down as you sway back and forth.
- This motion will come naturally to you as you practice the movements more.
- Listen to merengue music to feel the rhythm. Merengue music is all in 4/4 time, so it's easy to apply to almost any song. Fernando Villalona, Juan Luis Guerra, Eddy Herrera, and Toño Rosario are all artists with great merengue music you can listen to and practice with.[5]
- You can also find merengue mixes on YouTube with hours and hours of songs playing continuously.
[Edit]Dancing with a Partner - Face your partner and stand about apart. The merengue is a pretty intimate dance, so you'll want to start out with someone you know pretty well. Start by facing each other and then move in closer so there isn't much distance between the two of you.[6]
- Put your hand on your partner's shoulder blade. Lift both of your arms up to about shoulder-height. If you're the leader, put your right hand on your partner's left shoulder blade, and if you're the follower, put your left hand on your partner's right shoulder blade.[7]
- This is also called closed dance position.[8]
- Grab your partner's free hand with your other hand. Now, put your free arm up in an L shape at about shoulder-height. Grasp your partner's free hand in yours for a secure hold.[9]
- If you're the leading partner, you'll raise your left hand. If you're the follower, you'll raise your right hand.
- Travel across the floor in a circle.[10] With this basic marching step, start moving back and forth, left and right. If you're the leading partner, rotate slowly in a 360 degree turn. Take a full 8 beats to do the turn, and try not to rush your movements.[11]
- If you're feeling groovy, take 16 counts to do the turn instead of 8.
[Edit]Adding Advanced Moves - Try a one-handed turn. While doing the basic steps, grab both of your partner's hands in your own. If you're the leading partner, keep one hand clasped and lift the other one in the air, letting your partner turn either inside or outside of their own arm. If you're the follower, keep one hand on your partner's and spin underneath your own arm in one direction.[12]
- Keep the basic step going the entire time! Turn at the same pace you're stepping: a casual 1, 2, 3, 4.
- Add in two-handed turns. Slide out into the same open position you would for one-handed turns, and, this time, lift both hands up into the air. If you're the following partner, go under both of your arms in a 360 degree turn, ending with your arms crossed. To uncross your arms, turn back around in the opposite direction.[13]
- Do the hammerlock turn. If you're the leading partner, raise one hand up in the air and turn your partner to the outside. If you're the following partner, wrap one of your arms behind your back and keep one arm out. This will put you directly next to your partner so you're side-by-side. If you're the leading partner, put your free hand on your partner's hip.[14]
- If you'd like, keep that momentum and turn in a slow, 360 degree circle. Then, unwind the following partner by taking their free hand and spinning her back the other direction, resuming a normal stance.
- Add in a cuddle turn. If you're the leader, raise one hand up in the air and turn your partner to the inside. If you're the follower, wrap both of your arms around yourself and stand directly in front of your partner. Next, if you're the leading partner, move your partner to the side and stand hip to hip with them.[15]
- You can take your momentum to move around in a circle, with the following partner going backwards.
- Try joining a merengue class to get practice every week.
- Learning a new dance can be hard, so don't give up!
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Care for Clip in Hair Extensions Posted: 06 Jul 2020 05:00 PM PDT Like your regular hair, your clip in hair extensions need some TLC to stay in great condition. It only takes a few minutes to clean both synthetic and real extensions, and it takes even less time to tend to your wefts, or individual sections of hair, on a daily or regular basis. With a regular maintenance plan in place, your extensions can look even more sleek and beautiful when you choose to wear them.
[Edit]Washing your Extensions - Brush out any tangles from your hair extensions. Take a wide-tooth comb or soft bristled brush and work your way through your extension. Start brushing about from the bottom of the extension to get the obvious tangles out, then work your way up. Continue brushing through your hair extension until there are no more tangles.[1]
- You may run into some difficulties if you try washing a tangled extension.
- Pour lukewarm water into a clean sink or basin. Turn on your tap and check to make sure it isn't too hot or cold. Fill your sink or basin about halfway, or full enough so you can soak your entire extension.[2]
- Synthetic hair extensions tend to be heat sensitive, so it's best to use cold water for them.[3]
- Stir a pea-sized amount of shampoo into the sink. Grab a shampoo that doesn't have a lot of additives in it, like sulfates or alcohol. Squeeze a small amount into your sink or basin, then stir until you create suds.[4]
- If you're washing a synthetic hair extension, use shampoo designed specifically for synthetic hair. You can find this online.[5]
- Massage the extensions in sudsy water. Hold the base of the extension right below the wig clips, then submerge the rest of the extension into the soapy water. Work the suds into the extension with your fingers to get rid of any dirt or build-up that's collected in the hair.[6]
- Rinse out the extensions with lukewarm water. Drape your washed extensions on a clean towel. Once you've set aside your wefts, drain out the soapy water and refill your sink or basin with clean, lukewarm water. Dip your soapy hair extensions into the clean water and hold them beneath a stream of clean tap water until there are no more suds in the weft.[7]
- You may not be able to wash all of the suds out at once. Just continue rinsing until the water dripping off your wefts is clear.
- Massage a pea-sized amount of conditioner into each extension and let it sit. Rub the conditioner through all of the extension, then let it soak in for at least 1 hour. If you want to go the extra mile, treat your extensions with an overnight conditioner instead.[8]
- When conditioning a weft overnight, tie the base with a hair tie, then twist the extension and secure it in a shower cap.
- Conditioner helps ensure that your hair is really silky and soft.
- Rinse out any leftover conditioner with lukewarm water. Turn your tap onto a lukewarm setting, then place your conditioned wefts beneath the tap. Rub away any remaining product with your fingers.[9]
- Drench the extensions with cold water to seal in the effects of the conditioner. Switch your tap to a really cold setting and continue to rinse your wefts. Rinse off all of the hair that you've just conditioned, which will help the conditioner soak into your hair.[10]
- If you're working with synthetic wefts, you don't have to worry about this step.
- Let your extensions air-dry on a clean towel. Place a clean towel on a sturdy surface, then spread out your wefts overtop. Check that your wefts are as flat as possible, and that none are stacking on top of one another. Lightly comb through the extensions with your fingers to get rid of any leftover tangles.[11]
- Check on your wefts periodically to see if they're dry to the touch. You'll probably need to let them dry overnight, or even longer.
[Edit]Practicing Hygienic Habits - Establish a regular cleaning schedule for your wefts. Choose a time during the week or month to give your clip in extensions a little extra TLC, especially if you wear them often. Try to wash your synthetic extensions around once a week, if possible.[12] If you use real hair extensions, take time to wash them every 6-8 wears.[13]
- There isn't a hard and fast cleaning schedule that applies to everyone. If you don't wear your extensions that often, you don't need to clean them as frequently.
- Tie your extensions and store them in the box they came in. Take a regular hair tie and twist it around the base of the hair extension, about from the weft and clip. Carefully slide your extensions into the box they came in so they don't get frizzy and tangled.[14]
- If you don't have the original box on hand, use a sturdy bag or other container to store your extensions.
- Brush your extensions on a regular basis. Use a wide-tooth comb, soft bristle brush, or wire brush to gently work away any tangles or snares in the hair. Start brushing along the bottom of the extension, then slowly work your way up. Always brush in a downwards direction so your hair looks really smooth and silky.[15]
- Comb your clip-in extensions in the same way you'd care for your real hair. If you wouldn't yank a brush through your own hair, you shouldn't do it to your extensions, either.
- Spray your natural hair wefts with heat-protectant spray before styling. Spritz the product all over the surface of the weft, or at least the areas you plan on curling or straightening. This spray can help make your extensions last longer, especially if you wear them a lot.[16]
- Invest in wig-specific brushes, combs, and shampoos. Check online or visit your local beauty supply shop for specialty combs and shampoos for your extensions. Try to stock up on wig-specific products, especially if you wear extensions fairly often. [17]
- If you aren't sure which products to use, ask a stylist or beauty store associate for their recommendations.
[Edit]Expert Advice Use these tips to take care of your hair extensions: - Apply moisturizing conditioner from the mid-shaft to the ends, not the roots.
- Put your hair into a ponytail when you workout or sleep.
- Take a shower before you go swimming so that your extensions absorb clean water first.
- Gently brush your hair daily and try not to rip the extensions.
[Edit]Warnings - Never wash synthetic hair extensions with hot water, or use any heat tools to style them. This can melt or really damage the fibers.[18]
- Don't use your regular shampoo to wash your extensions, as it usually has a lot of added chemicals. Instead, use a special wig shampoo or another product that doesn't have a lot of harsh chemicals.[19]
- Don't try to rub your extensions to dry them off. This will just cause a lot of fizziness.[20]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Washing Your Extensions - Wig brush
- Lukewarm or cold water
- Shampoo
- Conditioner
- Towel
- Wide-tooth comb
[Edit]Practicing Hygienic Habits - Hair tie
- Storage box
- Heat protectant spray
- Wig brush
[Edit]Related wikiHows
[Edit]References |
| How to Cover Pocket Holes Posted: 06 Jul 2020 09:00 AM PDT Pocket holes are a nice way to join pieces of wood with hidden screws that are sunken into the wood, rather than exposed on the surface. After you drill your pocket holes and insert your screws, you'll probably want to fill in the pocket holes to hide them. This will give your woodworking project a finished, professional look. Covering up your pocket holes is fairly straightforward—you can actually buy special plugs made just for the job! You can also try using different fillers as an alternative. Either way, you'll be able to hide those pocket holes in no time. [Edit]Using Pocket Hole Plugs - Purchase a pack of wooden pocket hole plugs. Pocket hole plugs are basically pre-cut wooden dowels with 1 flat end and 1 angle-cut end. They will fit into your pocket holes straight out of the pack. Order pocket hole plugs online or purchase them at a home improvement center or hardware store.[1] wooden dowel. Just cut a piece of dowel into plugs that are slightly longer than the depth of your pocket holes. It's not necessary to cut an angle at 1 end of the plugs, since you will be cutting them flush at the end anyways.}}
- You can find pocket hole plugs in different common types of woods, such as pine and oak.
- Pocket hole plugs typically come in packs of 50-100 that cost around $10 USD.
- Squeeze a dab of wood glue into each pocket hole. Insert the nozzle of a bottle of wood glue into 1 of the pocket holes and give the bottle a light squeeze until a dab of glue about the size of a pea enters the hole. Repeat this for each pocket hole.[2]
- The wood glue will ensure a tight fit and keep the plugs securely in the holes.
- Insert a pocket hole plug, flat end first, into each pocket hole. Take a pocket hole plug out of the pack and push the flat-cut end of the plug into a pocket hole as far as it will go. Repeat this for each pocket hole.[3]
- If you have a pocket hole jig, some jigs have a part that helps you push the plugs into the holes.
- You can wipe away any glue that oozes out from the cracks between the plugs and the holes with a damp rag or you can wait until the end and sand the dried glue off, since you'll be sanding everything smooth anyways.
- Let the glue dry for 30 minutes. Leave the plugs alone for the next 30 minutes or so, so the wood glue sets. The plugs will be securely in place after this.[4]
- Wood glue cures fully in about 24 hours. However, it will be dry enough to proceed with the final steps after 30 minutes.
- Cut the plugs down to the surface of the wood using a flush cut saw. Hold the saw so the blade is flat against the flat surface of the wood. Place the teeth against a protruding pocket hole plug and saw off the protruding part, so the plug is flush with the wood surface. Repeat this for every plug.[5]
- A flush cut saw is a double-edged saw that is made for cutting wooden dowels and other wood protrusions flush with a flat wood surface.
- Be careful whenever you're using a saw. Keep your fingers, hands, and other body parts away from the saw blade.
- Sand the plugs and the surrounding wood surface until they're smooth. Manually sand the plugs and the wood surface or use an electric sander for faster results. Rub the sandpaper back and forth over the plugs and the surrounding wood until they feel like one uniformly smooth surface. Wipe the saw dust away with a rag when you're done.[6]
- If you already sanded your woodworking project, use the same grit of sandpaper that you last used for sanding on the plugs and the surrounding surface, so everything blends in. If you haven't sanded everything yet, you can use something like a 120- or 180-grit sandpaper.
[Edit]Filling Holes with Putties - Make a wood glue and sawdust paste to fill the holes for a natural wood look. Mix together wood glue and sawdust on a scrap piece of wood until it forms a paste. Use your fingers, a putty knife, or a scrap piece of wood to press the homemade wood filler into your pocket holes and let it dry for 30 minutes or so. Sand the filled holes flush with the surrounding surface.[7]
- You can play with the ratio of sawdust to wood glue to find the right consistency. You'll probably find that using slightly more sawdust than glue results in the best filler.
- Use saw dust from the same type of wood as your woodworking project for the closest color match.
- Fill holes with wood putty for a close-matching, no-mix filler. Put wood putty on the edge of a putty knife and press it into the pocket holes.Scrape the edge of the putty knife over the filled holes to remove excess putty. Let the putty dry for 8 hours or longer, then sand it down to smooth it out and blend it into the surrounding wood surface.[8]
- You can get different colors of wood putty, so choose a color that closely matches the color of the wood you are filling.
- If you plan to stain the wood, choose a color of wood putty that is darker than the wood and more closely matches the shade of the stain you plan to use. You could also get a light-colored stainable wood filler that will absorb the color of whatever stain you use better than regular wood putty.
- Choose Bondo putty for a quicker-drying, smoother filler than wood putty. Mix the 2 parts of the Bondo together on a scrap piece of wood according to the manufacturer's instructions. Use a putty knife to press the Bondo into the pocket holes, overfilling them slightly so you can sand the Bondo down. Wait at least 30 minutes for the Bondo to dry, then sand it down until it is smooth and flush with the surrounding wood.[9]
- Bondo is a type of auto body filler and all-purpose putty. You can purchase a can of Bondo online, at a home improvement center, or at an auto supply shop for about $15 USD.
- Using Bondo will result in an ultra-smooth finish. However, it will not absorb wood stain. You can, however, paint over Bondo putty.
- The best way to fill pocket holes is with pocket hole plugs or wood dowels. This will result in a natural wood plug that looks and feels very similar to the surrounding wood surface and will accept whatever stain or finishing coat you want to use on your woodworking project.
- Using some kind of glue- or putty-based filler is an easy alternative to using wooden plugs that requires slightly less work, but it will not match the surrounding wood surface as closely and may not accept all stains and finishes.
- You can cut your own pocket hole plugs out of wooden dowel. You don't have to make an angled cut at one end like the store-bought plugs have. Doing so will just create more work for you and won't affect how you plug the holes.
[Edit]Warnings - Be careful when using a flush cut saw. Keep your fingers, hands, and other body parts out of the way of the saw blade at all times.
- The angle-cut ends of store-bought pocket hole plugs are pointy, so be careful not to poke your fingers when you push the plugs into the pocket holes. You can always wear work gloves to protect your fingertips or use a pocket hole jig to push them in.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Plugging Holes with Pocket Hole Plugs - Pocket hole plugs
- Wood glue
- Flush cut saw
- Sandpaper
[Edit]Using Different Fillers - Wood glue (optional)
- Sawdust (optional)
- Scrap piece of wood (optional)
- Putty knife (optional)
- Wood putty (optional)
- Bondo putty (optional)
[Edit]References |
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