| How to Create a Location on Instagram Posted: 27 Aug 2020 01:00 AM PDT This wikiHow will teach you how to create your own location on Instagram if you have a business account. To do this, you'll need to have a Facebook profile created and linked to your Instagram business account. - Open Facebook. This mobile app icon looks like a white "f" on a blue background that you'll find on one of your Home screens, in the app drawer, or by searching.
- Switch to your business account. You can do this by tapping the three-line menu option and then tap your business account.
- Tap . You can create a new post by tapping the Post option that's under your business name and cover photo.
- Tap . You'll find this near the middle of the menu at the bottom of your screen.
- Tap in the text field that says "Search for places." Since the address most likely does not exist yet, you'll want to search first.
- Search for your page's name or a location. The search results will update as you type, but don't hit "Enter" or your keyboard equivalent.
- Tap . You'll see this at the bottom of the menu next to a blue plus sign.
- Choose a category. Tap to choose from the suggested categories. If, for example, you want to create a custom location for your bake sale and fundraiser, you can choose "Event."
- Choose a city. You can either search for a city or you can use a suggested location, which includes using your phone's GPS.
- Type the street address and tap . You'll see the Create button in the top-right corner of your screen.
- Tap . You can compose a post to accompany the location tag, but you'll need to publish the location first.
- Create a new Instagram post. If you need an in-depth tutorial on posting to Instagram, refer to How to Post on Instagram.
- Tap under "Add Location." You may have to scroll inside the menu.
- Search for and select your new location. If you can't find it, you may have to return to the post you created on Facebook and claim the location as your business.[1]
- If done successfully, your post will be added to your feed with the location tag you created on Facebook.
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Maintain a Garbage Disposal Posted: 26 Aug 2020 05:00 PM PDT Having a garbage disposal in your kitchen makes cleaning up after a meal much easier. Using it correctly, choosing the right food scraps to dispose of, and cleaning it regularly will keep your garbage disposal in perfect working order for a long time. You can keep these rules in mind every time you use your disposal to keep it in tip top shape. [Edit]Using a Garbage Disposal Correctly - Run cold water into the disposal as you turn it on. Before you put any food in, turn the disposal on and let cold water from your sink flow into it. Keep this going for about 30 seconds to lubricate the blades inside of the disposal first.[1]
- Always use cold water, not hot, when using your disposal to avoid melting any fat or grease on the food as you dispose of it.
- Keep the cold water running the entire time you use your disposal.
- Avoid pouring grease, starch, or non-food items into your disposal. Garbage disposals are made for food scraps only, meaning you should never pour anything inedible down them. Similarly, grease and fat can solidify inside of the disposal, causing it to clog or jam. And, starchy foods like corn husks, artichokes, and large amounts of vegetable peels can also cause clogs and jams. Foods to avoid putting down your disposal include:[2]
- Oyster shells
- Clam shells
- Large amounts of egg shells
- Coffee grounds
- Expandable foods, like pasta
- Grease or fat
- Animal bones
- Corn husks
- Celery stalks
- Onion skins
- Put bite-sized pieces of food down the disposal. Garbage disposals are meant to handle food scraps, not full pieces of food. If you're trying to dispose of anything larger than bite-sized, use a sharp knife to cut it up until all the pieces are about long.[3]
- If you can't cut up your food, consider composting it instead.
- Drop the food down the disposal slowly. Grab your food scraps and drop them into the disposal one handful at a time. Try to avoid overloading the disposal, as that can clog the blades and cause expensive repairs.[4]
- Wait until you stop hearing a grinding noise in the disposal to drop another handful in.
- Keep the disposal on for 30 seconds after you're done putting food in. Once you've put your last handful of food scraps in the disposal, wait for about 30 seconds to let the disposal finish working. If you don't, you could leave food scraps in the blades, causing it to jam up the next time you use it.[5]
- Turn the disposal off, but let the water run for 15 more seconds. Flip the switch to turn your disposal off, but keep using cold water from your sink for a little bit longer. This will help to flush out any remaining food that might be stuck in the disposal.[6]
- Remember to always use cold water, even when the disposal is off, to avoid heating up any grease or fat stuck on the blades.
[Edit]Cleaning Your Garbage Disposal - Use 1 drop of dish soap after every use. After you're done cleaning your kitchen, pour 1 drop of dish soap down the disposal and turn it on. Flush some cold water from the sink down your disposal, and leave it running for 1 minute to clear out any grease or oil that may have built up.[7]
- Dish soap works to cut grease and grime, leaving the blades free to run like they should.
- Avoid using commercial garbage disposal cleaning products, as those usually don't clean much and can even damage the blades.
- Bleach and drain cleaners can also damage the blades of your disposal.
- Place ice cubes and lemon slices in the disposal to freshen it up. With the disposal off, pour about 6 ice cubes down it and follow it up with 2 to 3 lemon slices. Top it off with 6 more ice cubes, then turn the disposal on. Once the grinding noise stops, flush the disposal with cold water for about 30 seconds, then turn it off.[8]
- Ice cubes help to dislodge any stuck food scraps on the blades, while the mild acidity of lemons work to freshen the scent and get rid of bacteria.
- Pour baking soda down the disposal to get rid of any odor. If you notice a smell coming from your disposal, pour 1 tbsp (17 g) of baking soda into the disposal, and follow it up with about 6 ice cubes. Turn the disposal on, then wait until the grinding noise stops before flushing it with cold water.[9]
- Baking soda is slightly corrosive, so it will scrub away any odor-producing grime on the blades.
- Turn your disposal on regularly to avoid rust and buildup. The best way to keep your disposal in working order is to turn it on and use it regularly. You don't have to use it every day, but try to use it at least once a week, if not more often.[10]
- Using your disposal will help to reduce hard water and food buildup on the blades.
[Edit]Fixing Common Problems - Push the red reset button if your disposal won't turn on. If you flip the switch to your disposal and nothing happens, it may have overheated and shut itself off. Open up the cabinet under your sink and find the red button on the engine part of your garbage disposal. Push the button in to reset your disposal.[11]
- If you still can't turn on your disposal, it may have flipped a circuit breaker. Check the electrical box in your home to see if the breakers are all on.
- Run hot water through the disposal to unclog it. If your disposal is draining slowly, try pouring 2 large bowls of hot water down the disposal. Wait for 10 minutes, then turn the disposal on and flush it with cold water to wash away any food scraps.[12]
- If flushing the disposal doesn't work, you may need to take apart the pipes to manually clean them out, in which case you should call a professional.
- Turn the blades manually with an allen wrench to unstick them. If the disposal makes a humming noise when you turn it on, it could be because the blades are stuck. Turn off the power supply to your garbage disposal before you start. Grab an Allen wrench and find the small opening near the red reset button, then turn the Allen wrench clockwise to spin the blades.[13]
- You may have to wiggle the allen wrench back and forth a few times before it works.
- You should never manually turn the blades while your disposal is on.
- Call a service company if your disposal still isn't working. If you've tried flushing your disposal, cleaning it, and resetting it, and it still doesn't work, you may need some professional help. Contact a plumber near you to get a thorough explanation of what your disposal needs to get working again.[14]
- If your disposal is more than 10 years old, you may need a replacement.
- If your garbage disposal isn't working properly, try cleaning it before calling for a repair.
[Edit]Warnings - Never stick your hand in the disposal to clean it out. Although the blades can't seriously harm you, they're still sharp and could cut or nick your hands.[15]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Using a Garbage Disposal Correctly [Edit]Cleaning Your Garbage Disposal - Dish soap
- Ice cubes
- Lemon slices
- Baking soda
[Edit]Fixing Common Problems [Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Make a Steel Rose Posted: 26 Aug 2020 09:00 AM PDT A steel rose, also known as a metal rose, refers to a rose sculpture fabricated entirely out of metal. This is a fun metalworking project if you already know how to use the basic metalworking tools. It involves cutting and shaping a bunch of metal circles to make the petals and adding a 5-point metal star underneath it to make the sepal, which is the green leafy portion that rests under the discs. However, this is not a safe project to undertake if you do not have experience working with metal sheeting, a torch, and tin snips. Expect to spend 1-3 hours making your metal rose. [Edit]Cutting the Petals - Pick up a metal sheet that's 0.5 mm thick. You can use steel to make your rose, but you can also use copper, aluminum, or general-purpose sheet metal. The overall process is the same regardless of the metal you use. You will need roughly 1 sheet of metal to make your rose. Pick up your metal sheet at your local construction supply store.[1]
- The millimeter listed on sheet metal always refers to the thickness. The thicker the sheet metal is, the stronger it is but the harder it is to shape. You can use something a little thinner than 0.5 mm, but it may leave your petals looking kind of flimsy and thin. If you use anything thicker, it will take much longer to shape the metal.
- With a sheet this size, you can make a rose head that's roughly tall and wide.
- Score 4-5 circles into the metal in slightly different sizes with a spring divider. Grab a metal spring divider and press one of the pins into any point on your sheet metal. Drag the second pin around the point in a circle. Make the first circle roughly in diameter. Then, make a second circle in diameter. Score 2-3 additional circles on different portions of the metal. Make each circle smaller than the last circle you made.[2]
- You can measure the circles out, or just do this by eye. So long as each circle is slightly smaller than the last, you'll be fine.
- The bigger your circles are, the larger the rose will be. You can deviate from these measurements if you want to make a bigger or smaller rose.
- Put on cut-resistant gloves and protective eyewear to protect yourself. You're going to do a lot of heating, cutting, and sanding from this point going forward. Grab some cut-resistant metalworking gloves and put them on to protect your hands the sharp metal. Put on some protective goggles to keep pieces of metal from flying into your eyes as you cut it.[3]
- You absolutely cannot complete this process without gloves or protective eyewear.
- Cut the circles out using tin snips and trim them to size. Grab some straight tin snips and cut your circles out of the sheet in square-like shapes to make them easier to work with. Then, grab some curved tin snips and trim around the circles to cleanly remove the smaller chunks of metal that are sticking out around your scored lines.[4]
- The circles don't need to be perfect. It's okay if there is a little variation around the edges. You'll eventually bend the edges downwards to give your petals shape, so people won't really notice any minor mistakes here.
- Drive a divot into the center of each circle with a punch and hammer. Set your first circle down on top of an anvil or large block of wood. Place a center punch in the middle of the circle and strike the back of the punch with a ball-peen hammer. This will drive a tiny divot into the middle of the circle and make it easier to cut through the center. Repeat this process with the rest of your circles.[5]
- Drill a small hole through each divot with a titanium drill bit. Put a titanium drill bit into your drill. Set a large chunk of wood down and hold the edge of your first circle with a set of slip-joint pliers. Hold the disc on top of the wood and use your drill to drive a hole through the circle where you made the divot. Repeat this process with the rest of your circles.[6]
- Don't hold the circles with your hand. Use pliers to keep your fingers away from the drill bit. If the drill bit slips, you want to ensure your fingers aren't anywhere near the center.
- You can use an auger to do this if you prefer.
- Cut 4-5 lines into each circle to make your petals. Grab your straight tin snips and pick up your first circle with the pliers. Wrap the jaws around the edge of the circle so the tip of your blades rest away from the hole you drilled. Cut a straight line leading from the edge of the circle to just outside of the hole you punched. Rotate the circle and cut it again. Do this 4-5 times on each circle to separate your petals.[7]
- These cuts do not need to be symmetrical. Just place them kind of randomly around each circle so that there's some variation in the petals.
- Each cut you make will separate another petal. The more cuts you add, the more individual petals you'll have.
[Edit]Shaping the Petals - Fan out each portion of cut metal at a slight angle with pliers. Pick up your first circle in your non-dominant hand. Grip any petal with the jaws of your slip joint pliers and lift it up at a 5- to 10-degree angle bend it a little bit. Repeat this process with every other petal you've cut out to separate your petals and soften the metal a little bit.[8]
- The goal here is not to shape the petals, but to soften the joint where the petal connects to the middle of the circle. This will make the petals much easier to trim, cut, and work with.
- You're going to hammer the petals down in a minute, so don't worry about the shape you bend the petals into. You're only doing this to separate the petals and soften the metal.
- Trim the edges of each petal down a little to give them some shape. Grab your curved tin snips and cut off the sharp corners on each petal. This will remove the sharp edges and give your petals a cleaner shape. Clean up all of the corners on all of the circles you've cut. On every single petal you've separated, trim the edge where it meets the petal next to it.[9]
- You're doing this for safety and aesthetic reasons. It's not only safer to work with the metal if you trim the corners off, but it will also give your petals softer edges and make them look more realistic.
- Hammer each petal's edges down against an anvil to soften the sides. Set a circle down on top of an anvil. Hold it in place against the anvil with your pliers. Then, grab a ball-peen hammer and strike the petals repeatedly. Keep striking every portion of the circle until it flattens out. Strike the edges where they meet the anvil to soften them up a little and rotate the disc with your pliers to hit each side. Repeat this process with the remainder of your circles.[10]
- This makes the metal more pliable and blunts the sharp edges of the petals.
- Strike the edges of each petal with a drywall or cross pin hammer to add texture. Grab a drywall or cross pin hammer and turn it so you're striking with the sharp side of the head. Set your first petal on the anvil and strike the exterior edge of the petal with your hammer. You should leave a small line on the edge of the petal with your strike. Repeat this process by striking each petal 5-10 times to leave a series of parallel marks in the edge of each petal.[11]
- If you look at a real rose, the lips of the petals are kind of wavy and uneven. Striking the metal petals with this sharp edge will help replicate this look.
[Edit]Crafting the Sepal - Draw and cut out a 5-point star from a new piece of metal sheet. The sepal is the green leafy part of the rose that sticks out from the base of the petals. Grab an erasable marker or a scriber and draw a 5-point star that's roughly the same height and width as your largest circle. Use your straight tin snips to cut the 5-point star out of your metal sheet.[12]
- Roses have really distinct, pointy sepals. You can skip this portion of the process if you want, but the final product will look more like a tulip than a rose.
- Add a divot and drill a hole through the center of the star. Grab the center pin you used to punch the divot in the circles and use the same process to punch a divot into the middle of the star. Then, drill through the divot the same way drilled through the centers of your circles. Use the same titanium drill bit to do this.[13]
- Repeat the hammer and striking process with your star. Set the star down on the face of an anvil and hammer it the same way you hammered the petals. Then, set each point of the star on the table where it meets the face of your anvil. Hit the point 4-5 times to bend it inwards with your hammer. Do this for each point. Finish by striking the edges with your drywall or cross pin hammer.[14]
- The table is the smaller platform that sticks out from the face of the anvil. Hitting each length of the star against this curved portion will bend the edges in.
- Use a vice to bend each point inward to finish the sepal. Slide the first point of the sepal in between the jaws of a vice. Close the jaws to squeeze the edges together like you're folding a piece of paper in half. Repeat this process with each point of the star to bend the edges in and form your sepal.[15]
- Do not bend the middle of the star. Only bend the points that extend out from the center.
[Edit]Assembling the Petals, Sepal, and Stem - Fabricate a stem with a metal rod and a disc sander. Grab a metal rod that is at least thicker than the holes in the middle of your sepal and petals. Turn on a metalworking disc sander and hold the top of the rod against the sander. Rotate the rod as it grinds against the sander to remove layers of metal. Continue sanding the rod until the thickness of the rod's tip is slightly smaller than the holes in sepal and petals.[16]
- The petals and sepal will slide over the top that you sanded down but they'll get caught on the portion of the rod where it gets thicker.
- The length of the rod determines the length of the stem. You can use any size you'd like, but something roughly will work well if you don't have a strong preference.
- Assemble the rose with the sepal on the bottom and the petals on top. Slide the rod through the hole in the middle of the sepal to attach it to the stem. Make sure that the bent points are facing up. Then, slide your biggest circle on to the rod. Put the remaining petals on top of the first circle so that the smallest petal is on top and each subsequent circle is smaller than the one beneath it.[17]
- A portion of the rod should be sticking up past the top set of petals. If it isn't, take everything off and remove another of the metal rod to continue sanding and extend the portion that holds the petals and sepal.
- Use a blowtorch and pliers to fold the top of the rod down. Place the stem in a vice and close the jaws to keep it from moving. Then, turn on your torch and hold the flame against the portion of the rod that's sticking out at the top. As it heats up, use a pair of slip-joint pliers to bend the tip of the metal rod in any direction so that the petals can't slide off of the top. Continue heating the tip of the rod down until it melts a little so your petals don't slide around.[18]
- You can typically bend the metal once it gets to the point where it starts glowing slightly orange.
- Continue shaping the rose with your blowtorch and pliers. Once the petals and sepal are locked on top of the rose, you can begin shaping it. Hold the torch away from the top of the rose and move it slowly in a circle around the petals to heat them up. Then, use your slip-joint pliers to pull your top layer of petals up at an 80-degree angle. Lift the next layer up at a 75-degree angle so the petals rest just outside of the first layer. Continue working the lower layers up to raise them around the rose.[19]
- Be careful while you're doing this. You have to keep heating the petals while you work so just go slowly and keep your working hand away from the flame.
- Fold the petals around the center of the rose. Once all of the petals are pointing up, grab a pair of needle-nose pliers. Continue heating the tips of the petals and use your needle nose pliers to shape the edges of the petals in a circle around the center. Bend each vertical petal into a circular shape so that the petals on each disc form a small circle around the center. Pull the innermost petals close to one another to cover up the tip of the rod you bent in the middle of the rose.[20]
- This requires a bit of hand-eye coordination. Just be patient and take your time to craft the petals into a shape that looks good to you.
- You may find it helpful to look at a picture of a rose on your phone while doing this.
- Bend an outward lip into the edge of each petal. Continue heating the tips of the petals with your torch. Use your needle nose pliers to bend the top of each petal out away from the center of the rose. Bend it downwards and out a little bit to give the rose its distinct shape.[21]
- You are done once you've shaped all of the petals.
- If you want, you can bend the points on the sepal down or up. You can also leave them where they are. It's entirely up to you.
- Polish the metal carefully using an orbital sander and polish pad. Grab a buffing polish pad and attach it to an orbital sander. Turn the sander on and run the pad around each portion of the rose to remove any dust from your torch or workspace. This will clean the rose up and give it a beautiful texture.[22]
- You can use a wire brush instead of an orbital sander if you don't have one.
[Edit]Warnings - Wear thick, cut-resistant gloves and protective eyewear while you make your metal rose. This process can be quite dangerous if you don't take the proper safety precautions.
- This isn't a safe project if you don't have any experience cutting metal and working with a torch. Start off with something simpler if you're still learning.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Metal sheets
- Spring divider
- Cut-resistant gloves
- Protective eyewear
- Tin snips
- Curved tin snips
- Center punch
- Ball-peen hammer
- Drywall or cross pin hammer
- Erasable marker or scriber
- Drill
- Titanium drill bit
- Slip-joint pliers
- Needle-nose pliers
- Anvil
- Vice
- Disc sander
- Polishing pad
- Orbital sander
[Edit]References |
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