| How to Disinfect with Bleach Posted: 09 Oct 2020 01:00 AM PDT So, you've got a moldy or super dirty surface you want to get clean. No problem. You can just reach for the handy container of bleach and clean it up, right? Not so fast! While bleach can be a highly effective cleaning and sanitizing solution, it's also a really potent and potentially dangerous chemical. Don't worry though. As long as you follow the proper safety precautions, like making sure to dilute the bleach first, you can use bleach to sanitize and disinfect a variety of surfaces. [Edit]Using Bleach Safely - Open up windows to increase ventilation. Whenever you're diluting or using bleach, always work in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing in the toxic fumes. Open up some windows to increase the air circulation in the room before you use the bleach.[1]
- You can also turn on some fans in the room.
- Another option is to dilute the bleach outside so you don't breathe in the vapors from the concentrated bleach.
- Wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Bleach is highly corrosive, which means it can burn your skin and eyes. Always put on a pair of rubber gloves to protect your hands when you're using bleach. Additionally, wear safety glasses or safety goggles to protect your eyes from bleach getting splashed into them.[2]
- You could also wear pants and a long-sleeved shirt. Bleach can damage and discolor clothing, so make sure you wear something you don't mind getting stained.
- Avoid mixing bleach with other household chemicals. Never mix bleach with any other cleaning solutions. Combining bleach with common household chemicals such as ammonia can produce chloramine gas, which is highly toxic and can be life-threatening if it's breathed in. The only thing you should ever mix bleach with is water to dilute it.[3]
- If you do accidentally mix bleach with another chemical, leave the area and get outside into fresh air immediately.
- Store bleach in a cool, shaded, out-of-reach location. Bleach has an expiration date and will become much less effective once it expires. It can also become less effective if it's exposed to sunlight and heat, so keep it somewhere cool and dark like a storage closet. Place the bleach somewhere high or out of reach of children.[4]
- Make sure the cap is tightly sealed as well.
- Once the bleach is expired, dispose of it and use fresh bleach to sanitize. Check the expiration date printed on the bottle.
[Edit]Sanitizing a Surface with Bleach - Choose regular unscented 5%-6% bleach to disinfect and sanitize. Household bleach can come in a range of concentrations and scents. Use an unscented 5%-6% concentration so you can safely and easily dilute it and it won't leave any residual smells. Make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area.[5]
- Scented bleach products are often used for laundry.
- Clean the surface with dish soap and warm water. Bleach is a great sanitizing and disinfecting solution, but dirty surfaces need to be cleaned first. Use warm water and add a few drops of dish soap. Scrub the surface with a sponge or washcloth to remove dust, dirt, and debris from it.[6]
- Use a scrubbing brush to remove stubborn stains and gunk from the surface.
- Rinse the surface with clean water. Use a hose or a cloth soaked in clean water to rinse the surface before you use the bleach. Make sure you remove any traces of the soap so there isn't any that could potentially react with the bleach.[7]
- It's really important there isn't any soap left on the surface. Some soaps may have ingredients that can produce a toxic gas if they're combined with bleach.[8]
- Mix of bleach with of cold water. Fill a bucket with cold, clean water. Measure out the bleach into a measuring cup and carefully pour it into the water. Use a stir stick to stir the solution so it's fully combined.[9]
- Never use undiluted bleach to disinfect surfaces.
- Hot water decomposes the active ingredient in the bleach, making it useless. Whenever you're diluting your bleach to use it to sanitize and disinfect, always use cold water.
- Be careful not to stand over the solution to avoid breathing in the fumes.
- Wipe floors, sinks, and household surfaces, then let them air dry. If you're using the bleach to sanitize and disinfect household surfaces, use a brush, mop, towel, sponge, or washcloth in the solution and wipe the surface. Leave the bleach to air dry and fully sanitize the surface.[10]
- It takes at least 10 minutes for the bleach to fully disinfect a hard surface, so don't rinse it away. Just let it air dry on its own.[11]
- Bleach is safe to use on hard surfaces like floors, sinks, toys, and walls.
- Soak cleaning tools in diluted bleach for 30 minutes, then rinse them. If you used a brush, mop, towel, sponge or wash cloth to sanitize the surface, they need to be fully disinfected. Soak them in the bucket of bleach for half an hour and then rinse them with clean water.[12]
- Make sure you're wearing gloves when you're submerging and removing the tools.
- Use diluted bleach within 24 hours. Once the bleach is diluted, use it while it's still fresh and strong enough to sanitize your surfaces. The diluted bleach begins to break down and is less potent after 24 hours, so discard it the next day.[13]
- You can label and date the solution to be sure it's still fresh.
[Edit]Getting Rid of Mold on Hard Surfaces - Use bleach to kill mold on floors, countertops, and hard surfaces. Bleach can be used as an effective way to kill mold on hard surfaces. Use it to get rid of mold on floors, countertops, walls, tile, concrete, and any other hard surfaces around your home that may have mold on them.[14]
- Don't use bleach to get rid of mold on fabrics or porous surfaces like wallpaper because it can damage or discolor them.
- Mix of 5%-6% bleach with of cold water. Fill a bucket with cold water, not hot, since hot water will make the bleach ineffective. Carefully measure out the bleach and add it to the bucket. Use a stir stick to mix the solution together.[15]
- Be careful not to breathe in the fumes. Wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated area.
- Killing mold requires a stronger bleach solution than simply disinfecting surfaces.
- Scrub rough surfaces with a stiff brush before you apply the bleach. If you're cleaning a rough wall or floor that has mold on it, take a stiff brush and give it a good scrubbing to help break up the mold.[16]
- Breaking up the mold will help the bleach penetrate it more effectively.
- Wash the moldy surfaces with the bleach mixture. Use a sponge or washcloth and soak it in the bleach solution. Wipe the bleach over all of the moldy areas to start killing the mold.[17]
- Soak the sponge or washcloth to add more bleach as needed.
- Wear gloves and eye protection to keep yourself protected.
- Rinse the bleach away with clean water and let the surface air dry. The strong bleach solution can damage and discolor surfaces if it's left on them for too long. Use cool, clean water to rinse the surface well so all of the bleach is gone. Then, let the surface air dry on its own.[18]
- Turn on some fans to help increase circulation and speed up the drying process.
- You can spray the surface with clean water or wipe it down with a clean cloth soaked in clean water.
- Discard the diluted bleach after 24 hours. Diluted bleach begins to break down and become less effective. Use the bleach solution as soon as you mix it together. When you're finished, or the next day, discard any leftover bleach.[19]
- Use a gentler disinfectant if you can, like Borax or disinfecting soap. Bleach is harsh and should be used as a last resort.
[Edit]Warnings - Never bathe in bleach. Household bleach will irritate your skin and could cause long term damage.[20]
- Do not gargle or drink bleach, even if it's diluted. You could cause serious burns and it doesn't take much bleach to cause serious health problems or become life-threatening if you swallow it.[21]
- If someone accidentally ingests bleach, contact your local poison control immediately.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Sanitizing a Surface with Bleach - Dish soap
- Bucket
- Bleach
- Water
- Stir stick
- Brush, mop, towel, sponge, or washcloth
[Edit]Getting Rid of Mold on Hard Surfaces - Bucket
- Bleach
- Water
- Stir stick
- Scrubbing brush (for rough surfaces)
- Sponge or washcloth
[Edit]References |
| How to Carry Cargo on a Bike Posted: 08 Oct 2020 05:00 PM PDT Whether you want to carry a change of clothes for bicycle commuting, camping gear for touring, or a whole load of groceries from the warehouse store, you can do it on a bike. There are a whole range of options to choose from to carry cargo on a bike. From cargo racks with panniers to baskets and different types of bags, you're sure to find a method that works for you. There are also a variety of specially-built cargo bikes you can purchase to suit your cargo-carrying needs. [Edit]Installing a Cargo Rack - Select a rear-mounted cargo rack on your bike for a high cargo capacity. A rear-mounted cargo rack is a rack that you install on your bike above the back wheel. You will be able to strap cargo directly to it, attach panniers (bags specifically made for bike cargo racks), or put a crate on the rack to hold cargo.[1]
- If you are just going to mount one rack, then a rear-mounted rack is the most versatile option with the most cargo capacity.
- Add a front-mounted cargo rack on your bike for additional cargo capacity. Front-mounted racks go above your front wheel and are smaller than rear-mounted racks. Strap items to them directly, put smaller panniers on them, or use them as supports for baskets or handlebar bags.[2]
- If you don't need a lot of cargo capacity, you can also use a front-mounted rack on its own, instead of in addition to a rear-mounted rack.
- Use a cargo net, rack straps, or bungee cords to secure items to the rack. A cargo net is a stretchy net with hooks on the corners designed to hold items in place on a bike cargo rack. Rack straps are similar, but are just individual straps instead of a net. Bungee cords also work when you wrap them around items tightly and hook the ends to the rack.[3]
- This is the most inexpensive way to carry cargo on a cargo rack. A cargo net or rack strap will cost you about $5 USD, and bungee cords can be even cheaper.
- Mount panniers to the sides of the bike rack for a modern, versatile option. Panniers are bags designed specifically to mount to the sides of a bike cargo rack. They are easy to attach and detach from the rack with clips, straps, or hooks so you can bring them anywhere with you.[4]
- Panniers are usually sold in pairs (one for each side of the rack) and can range in price from about $50-$300+ USD.
[Edit]Using Bags, Baskets, Straps, or a Trailer - Wear a backpack or messenger bag to carry small loads. A basic backpack is sufficient to carry light loads of items on your bike. A messenger bag hangs to one side and leaves your back uncovered, which may help you stay cooler if you're riding on a hot day.[5]
- Bike and outdoor supply stores often sell backpacks and messenger bags that are designed with bikers in mind for a more comfortable ride.
- Attach a basket, box, or crate to your bike for a functional vintage look. There are a variety of baskets available that attach to the front of your handlebars or the sides of a cargo rack for when you just want to throw a couple things in. Another option is screwing or otherwise securing a box or crate to a cargo rack for larger loads.[6]
- Baskets are easy to remove when you don't need them, whereas a crate or box that is secured to your cargo rack will be a little more difficult.
- Keep in mind that carrying items in an open container will mean they are not protected from the rain. A waterproof bag or cover will solve this problem.
- Use handlebar bags or saddlebags to carry small essential items. There are a wide variety of smaller bags designed to attach to your bike in front of the handlebars, onto the frame, or under the seat. These bags are good for holding stuff you want to carry with you while biking, such as repair kits, tools, or personal items like your phone and wallet.[7]
- You can find all kinds of smaller accessory bags at a bike shop or outdoor supply store to customize your bike for carrying different cargo.
- Secure things to the frame of your bike with straps or bungee cords. Use frame straps, rubber straps, or bungee cords to secure cargo to the frame of your bike. Make sure that the straps don't wrap around and interfere with any of the mechanics of your bike, such as brake lines.[8]
- Frame straps are velcro straps specifically made for securing things to your bike frame. Rubber straps, like the kind used for binding skis, as well as rubber or regular bungee cords also work.
- The spot where the seat tube meets the down tube and the spot between the down tube and the top tube (near the head tube) work well for securing items to your bike with this method.
- Get a bike trailer to carry large amounts of cargo. There are trailers of all shapes and sizes that are designed to attach to the back of bikes to carry bigger loads. Get a trailer that either clips to your seat post or to the rear dropout.[9]
- Trailers are a good option if you want to keep your bike light and free of cargo most of the time, but want to be able to carry heavy loads once in a while.
- Bike trailers can often carry or more and come in waterproof models or even models designed to carry specific cargo.
[Edit]Getting a Special Cargo Bike - Get a longtail cargo bike to have lots of modification options. Longtail bikes have an extended rear rack that can be modified with large panniers, crates, boxes, or even extra seats. Choose a longtail cargo bike if you want to be able to adapt it to suit a variety of cargo-carrying needs.[10]
- Longtail cargo bikes often come with open-topped panniers, nets to secure cargo to the top, and optional handles or backrests.
- A longtail cargo bike will cost you anywhere from $1000-$2000+ USD.
- Keep in mind these types of cargo bikes are larger and harder to maneuver than regular bikes or some other types of cargo bikes.
- Purchase a utility bike for a sturdy, easy-to-ride cargo bike. A utility bike is a standard bike but built with a heavier frame so it is able to support more weight. They're easier to ride and maneuver than larger cargo bikes, while still being able to carry big loads.[11]
- Utility bikes also commonly have metal baskets or racks built onto their frames for out-of-the-box cargo-carrying capacity.
- Choose a cycle truck to carry a box of cargo in front of the handlebars. Cycle trucks are about the same size and shape as a normal bike, but with a smaller front wheel. They have a built-in box or a platform in front of the handlebars for carrying cargo.[12]
- These are a good option when you want a cargo bike that is not too large or heavy, but still has room to carry cargo in front when you need to.
- Buy a box bike to carry large loads in front of the bike. Box bikes have a long wheel base at the front and a smaller front wheel. There is a boxy or flat cargo area in between the handlebars and the front wheel that sits low to the ground.[13]
- Box bikes are a good choice to carry deliveries around a city, such as grocery deliveries. They can even be used to create bicycle food carts.
- Box bikes can get quite expensive, and cost from about $2500-$6000 USD.
- Get a cargo tricycle or cycle rickshaw for added stability. These are similar to box bikes, but with a third wheel at either the front or the back. They offer more stability and balance for carrying heavy loads at the front of the bike, but are harder to maneuver around corners.[14]
- You can get fancier cargo tricycles that tilt when you go around corners so that they have closer to the same maneuverability as a normal bike.
- Bring an insulated bag or cooler to keep cold foods cold if you're going grocery shopping. It can go in a pannier or basket.
- Any cargo increases your total weight. If you're trying to ride far or fast, or planning to do a lot of climbing, then keep your load as light as possible.
- Consult the employees at a bike shop for help selecting the right equipment and installing it correctly if you aren't sure how to do it yourself.
[Edit]Warnings - Make sure no straps, corners of bags, or other loose ends will interfere with your wheel, pedals, gears, or brakes.
- Always fasten your load securely. Use bungee cords or straps to secure things in place.
- Verify that you can balance and control your bike with whatever load you carry or attach before riding in traffic. Swinging or shifting loads can unbalance a bike, and heavy loads extending behind the seat or rear axle can cause the bike to fishtail.
- If you are riding at night, make sure none of your lights are obscured by your cargo. You can get lights that attach to your cargo racks to make them more visible.
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Replace Disc Brake Pads on a Bicycle Posted: 08 Oct 2020 09:00 AM PDT Replacing worn out disc brake pads is an easy process that only requires some common tools and a few minutes of your time. Make sure you replace your disc brake pads whenever they get down to about 1-1.5 mm of pad. That way, you'll avoid the risk of having the metal backing on the pads rubbing against your disc brake rotors and causing damage that's more expensive to repair. Weak braking power or a high-pitched squealing noise when you brake in dry weather are also signs of disc brake pads that should be replaced. [Edit]Removing the Old Pads - Place your bike in a repair stand and remove the wheel. Mount your bike in a repair stand to elevate it and make it easier to take the wheel off and work on. Loosen the quick release lever by hand or use a wrench to take off the axle nuts that hold the wheel in place. Pull it off the fork to gain access to the disc brake caliper.[1]
- If you don't have access to a bike repair stand, carefully flip your bike upside down and balance it on the ground, so the wheels are in the air.
- Pull out the retaining pin from the brake caliper by hand or using pliers. Bend the ends straight using needle-nose pliers and pull the pin out if your caliper uses a cotter pin. Remove the clip from the end of the pin, then unscrew the pin using an allen key or Torx screwdriver if the caliper uses a screw-in pin with a pin clip.[2]
- The caliper is the mechanism attached to the bottom of the axle on the side where the disc brake rotor, which is the disc itself, is attached to the wheel. When your wheel is on the bike, the caliper goes over the disc.
- The retaining pin is a pin that runs horizontally across the disc brake caliper and holds the brake pads in place in the center of the caliper.
- A cotter pin looks kind of like a bobby pin. It has a U-shaped bend at 1 end and the 2 opposite ends are bent in opposite directions to keep it in place. A screw-in clip-style pin just looks like a single pin and has a small roundish clip at the end it is inserted by.
- Make sure you put this retaining pin somewhere where you won't lose it so you can put it back when you're done.
- Push a flat-head screwdriver in between the pads and leverage them apart. Wedge the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the crack between the brake pads in the center of the caliper. Move it back and forth a few times until you separate them all the way.[3]
- The brake pads are just 2 rectangular metal pieces with padding on the sides that face each other right in the middle of the caliper. There is a small crack between the padding where the disc brake rotor goes.
- This resets the pistons so the new brake pads will fit properly inside the caliper.
- Do not squeeze your brake levers at any point during this process or you will pop the pistons back out and the new brake pads won't fit.
- Pull the brake pads out by hand or with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Grab the pads between your fingers or in the jaws of a pair of needle-nose pliers. Pull them straight out and set them aside.[4]
- Some disc brake pads use a clip spring system to hold them in place. If you can't pull the pads right out, try pushing them inwards to release the spring mechanism before you pull them out.
- You might have to remove the outer pad first in order to pull certain types of disc brake pads out. If you can't pull them both out at the same time, try this.
[Edit]Installing New Pads - Clean the inside of the brake caliper using degreaser spray and a paper towel. Spray some degreaser into the middle of the caliper to clean out dust, dirt, and other contaminant buildups. Wipe away the degreaser with a clean paper towel.[5]
- Any contaminants inside your brake caliper will transfer to your new brake pads, so it's important to clean out the caliper first to keep the new pads working their best for as long as possible.
- Put the new pads in the accompanying spring and squeeze them together. Line the U-shaped spring up with the grooves in the brake pads, so it is in between them and the pads are facing each other. Squeeze the pads together to sandwich the spring inside.[6]
- On mechanical disc brakes, one brake pad sits right next to the motor and the other pad moves and squeezes it all together. You want the rotor to be really close to the stationary pad—not centered between the two pads.[7]
- Not all disc brake pads have a spring. Refer to your new brake pads' instructions if you don't see a spring.
- It's always a good idea to use new brake pads of the same brand as the brake caliper. Different brands may use different styles of pads, so they're often not interchangeable.
- Slide the brake pads into the caliper. Keep pinching the pads together and slide them into the center of the caliper. Push them all the way in until they are fully slotted into the caliper.[8]
- Some disc brake pads go in super smoothly and easily, while others might require more force to push them all the way in.
- If your new pads just come with 2 pads and no spring, you might have to put the inner pad in first, then push the outer pad in to lock them in place.
- It's normal for the brake pads to be a little loose when you slide them into the caliper, so don't worry if you notice this.
- Insert the retaining pin back into the caliper. Push the pin all the way back in and bend the ends apart to lock it into place if it's a cotter pin. Slide the pin in and tighten it using an allen key or Torx screwdriver, then slide the clip over the end if it's a screw-in, clip-style pin.[9]
- Your new disc brake pads may come with a new retaining pin. If so, you can use this instead of the old pin if you prefer.
- Put the wheel back on and spin it to check the caliper alignment. Put the wheel that you removed back into the fork and tighten the axle in place using the quick release lever or the axle nuts and a wrench. Give it a good spin and look closely at the disc brake rotor on the wheel to make sure it isn't rubbing against the new brake pads.[10]
- Remember that the rotor is just the disc itself on the wheel. It goes in between the pads inside the caliper.
- If the rotor is rubbing against the brake pads, adjust the caliper by loosening the caliper's mounting bolts and realigning it until the disc rotor runs parallel to the new pads, then tighten the mounting bolts again.
- Don't squeeze the brake lever until you're sure everything is aligned properly. If the disc is running straight and smooth, you can go ahead and squeeze the lever to pop the pistons out and make the new pads bite the wheel.
- Ride your bike in a safe area and brake hard 10-20 times to bed in the pads. Take your bike down off the repair stand and bring it outside somewhere relatively flat and car-free. Ride around and squeeze the brakes hard 10-20 times until they feel like they're working well and braking powerfully.[11]
- You'll notice that the brakes feel stronger each time you pull them while you're doing this process. Once you don't notice any more changes in how powerfully they're working, you can ride your bike as normal.
- The process for changing disc brake pads is the same for both road bikes and mountain bikes.
- There are various styles of disc brake calipers and pads, so always refer to the manufacturer's instructions for the exact installation method. The general process is the same, but there might be something slightly different that locks them into place.
[Edit]Warnings - Don't ride your bike as you normally would until you bed in the new disc brake pads in a safe area because they won't work at full power at first.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - New brake pads
- Allen keys
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers (optional)
- Torx screwdriver (optional)
[Edit]References |
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