| How to Make Hypertufa Planters Posted: 06 Dec 2020 12:00 AM PST Are you tired of clay or wooden planters? Would you like to give your garden a different look? Hypertufa, or tufa, plant pots have a coarsely textured, stone-like appearance that's pleasing to the eye. With their thick, porous texture, they are good containers for smaller plants, such as cacti, succulents, and alpine plants. These are versatile pots that you make yourself, so they can be any size that your heart desires. Make sure you set aside some time, though, as the hypertufa process can take up to 3 weeks to complete! [Edit]Preparation - Cover a flat surface with a plastic tarp. The best place to do this project is outside or somewhere with a lot of ventilation (like your garage). If you don't want to get your surface area messy, put down a plastic tarp or sheet to keep it clean. Otherwise, work on the ground or somewhere you don't mind spilling cement and dust.[1]
- You can find plastic tarps at most hardware stores, and they're always useful to have around for messy projects like this.
- Grab a wheelbarrow or a plastic bucket for mixing. Hypertufa planters will make quite a crunchy mess, and they can stain the containers you use to mix them in. If you're attached to any of your buckets or tools, don't use them for this process. Instead, grab a bucket, wheelbarrow, or large plastic bowl that you don't mind getting a little messy.[2]
- You can also use a large, shallow pan for easier mixing.
- You can clean off your mixing container with a hose when you're done.
- Gather cement, peat moss, and perlite. The "ingredients" for your planters are very important, and you actually have a few options that you can choose from. What you absolutely do need, though, is Portland cement (not a mix, just straight Portland cement), sieved peat moss (to remove the sticks and stones), and perlite.[3]
- If you aren't sure about using peat moss, you can use coir (coconut fiber) instead.[4]
- If you don't want to use perlite, you can use vermiculite instead.[5] Vermiculite will make your planters harder than if you use perlite.
- Separate the ingredients out into their ratios. You can make as much or as little hypertufa as you'd like, depending on how many planters you want and how large they are. The most important thing to remember here are the ratios: you always want to use 3 parts peat moss or coir, 2 parts Portland cement, and 3 parts perlite or vermiculite.[6]
- When you measure them out, use volumetric measurements (milliliters and Liters) for more accuracy.
- Separating the ingredients beforehand will be much easier, and it will make your project go faster, too.
- Make a mold out of plastic or cardboard. Here comes the fun part: figuring out what size and shape you'd like your planters to be. To stick to simplicity, use a cardboard box or a clean litter box for a rectangular planter. If you want to get a little more fancy with it, you can mold your own shape by using styrofoam and taping it together.[7]
- To make your planter with a divot in the middle (for the plants!), make a square out of cardboard or styrofoam and then put a smaller square inside of it.
- If you're using a wood mold, be sure to line it with plastic first so the mixture doesn't stick.
- Put on some gloves to protect your hands. While the hypertufa mixture isn't particularly harmful, it can be messy and might dry out your skin. Grab a pair of rubber kitchen gloves and put them on before you start making your mixture, just to be safe.[8]
- If you're working outside, you don't need to wear a mask. If you're making your mixture indoors, consider wearing one to protect your lungs from harmful dust.
[Edit]Making the Hypertufa - Mix the cement, peat moss, and perlite. Remember when you divided up all of your ingredients? Now you get to use them! Grab a plastic bucket or a wheelbarrow, then pour your ingredients into it. This part gets super dusty, so make sure you're working outside or wearing a dust mask.[9]
- If you're making a large batch, a wheelbarrow is your best bet.
- Add water in slowly. Measure out about of water into a separate bucket. Pick up the bucket and add it just a little bit at a time, stirring it into your ingredients with a shovel or a wooden stick. Keep adding water super slowly until your mixture has reached the right consistency. The goal here is to make your mixture thick and creamy so it's not dusty anymore, but you don't want to water it down too much, either.[10]
- This is why going slowly is so important! If you add too much water, you'll have to measure out more dry ingredients, which can be a pain.
- Pick your mixture up and squeeze it. If it releases a few drops of water, you're good to go! If it's still dry, add more water. You want it to have some moisture present without being too thin or watery.[11]
- If you added too much water, you'll need to put in more dry ingredients. Remember to keep the same ratio if you add more!
[Edit]Molding the Hypertufa Planters or Pots - Pack the hypertufa into the bottom of your mold. Start by picking up handfuls of the hypertufa and pressing it down into the bottom of your mold, aiming for a layer that's about thick. If you're using a square or rectangular mold, remember to really pack it into the corners to avoid any holes in your planter.[12]
- Aim for no holes or gaps in the layer so your planter is consistently flat and smooth.
- Smooth more hypertufa onto the sides of the mold. Once the bottom is done, you can carry the hypertufa mixture up the sides of your mold, again aiming for a layer that's about thick. Remember to really pack it into the corners of your mold to reinforce the planter.[13]
- Keep your gloves on for this! It will make the process go much faster.
- Press a smaller box into your mold to hold the shape. Grab a box (if your mold is rectangular) or a pot (if your mold is circular) that's about smaller than your mold. Press it into the center of your mold to keep the hypertufa in its shape as it dries. If there's any holes or gaps, fill those in with more hypertufa until it's solid-looking.[14]
- The smaller portion inside will hold the sides in place as the hypertufa dries, so make sure your mixture is really packed in there.
- Clean off your tools before moving on. Hypertufa dries pretty quickly, and it's super hard to scrape off once it's dry. Spray your tools and mixing container out with water before you move onto the next steps so your cleanup job is easier.[15]
- If you forget to spray off your tools, you might have to scrape them off later on. It's annoying, but it can be done!
[Edit]Curing the Hypertufa - Wrap the planter in plastic and set it aside for 14 to 36 hours. Here comes the hardest part: waiting. Wrap up your planter or pot in a plastic tarp and set it somewhere that it can stay cool and dry. After 14 to 36 hours, unwrap it and test the softness by scratching it with your fingernail.[16]
- If your fingernail leaves a mark in the planter, wrap it back up and leave it for a few more hours. If it doesn't make a mark, you can unwrap the planter and move onto the next step.
- Remove the planter from the mold. This part can get a little tricky, so take your time. Carefully take out the inside portion of the mold, then peel back the outer layers. Your hypertufa planter is still pretty fragile, so try not to bump it around too much. Set it on a flat surface so you can work on it a little bit more.[17]
- It might be useful to have 2 pairs of hands here, so don't be afraid to grab a friend for some assistance.
- Smooth out the corners with a wire brush. Your planter may come out looking a little bit rough and bumpy at first, but that's nothing a wire brush can't fix. Scrape it gently along the outside of the planter, focusing on any bumpy, sharp, or rough edges. How it looks is totally up to you, but it's best to do this now while the planter is still a little pliable.[18]
- If you want to texturize your planter, rub the wire brush all over the outside for a more artistic approach. This will give it some lines and stippling.
- Leave your planter in a shady spot for 2 to 3 weeks. If you want to protect your planter even more, wrap it up in plastic again before setting it aside. Leave the planter alone for at least another 2 weeks, if not 3, so it can really set in its shape.[19]
- If you use your planter too early, there's a chance it won't hold its shape or it could crack. Patience is key!
- You'll know your planter is ready when it's lighter in color and it weighs less, too.
- De-lime the planter with water or vinegar. Once your planter is fully cured, there's one more crucial step before you can put plants in it. The lime from the dry ingredients will still be present, and it can be harmful to the plants or the soil that you put in your planter. For the next 3 to 7 days, spray down your planter with water to de-lime it completely. If you want to be extra sure, spray it down with a diluted white vinegar mixture before you rinse it off.[20]
- You can also leave your planter out in the rain for 1 week for a natural de-liming process.
[Edit]Decorating and Using Your Planters - Drill a hole in the bottom for drainage. If you're keeping your planter outdoors, you may want to add a few drainage holes in the bottom. Attach a masonry bit to your drill and flip your planter over, then add 2 to 3 holes in the bottom to allow water flow. This step is totally optional, so don't feel like you have to put in the extra work.[21]
- Hypertufa is naturally porous, so it will leach out some of the water from the soil on its own.
- Seal your planter if you're planting plants that love moisture. Hypertufa is porous, so it does retain some of the water that you'll use to water your plants. While this is great for some plants, it can harm ones that need and love a lot of moisture. If you're worried about your planters sucking up too much water, spray them down with a concrete sealer and let them dry for about 1 day.[22]
- FlexSeal and Valspar are 2 popular concrete sealer brands.
- Plants like bellflowers and iris love moisture, so you may want to seal your planters for those ones.
- Fill your planters with soil to put them to use. Now that your planter is ready, you can fill it up with potting soil and add any type of plant that you'd like! Flowers, herbs, ground cover, and shrubs all look great in these natural-looking planters, and you can put a few next to each other for more decoration.[23]
- Try mixing and matching a few different plants in each container to spruce them up.
- If your planter has a drainage hole, make sure you set it on top of rocks or wood to allow it to drain.
- Try not to drop your hypertufa planters. Once your planters have cured and set, they can last pretty much indefinitely. However, if you drop your planters onto a hard surface, there is a chance that they could crack or break. Use caution when you move them around to keep your planters intact for years to come.[24]
- If your ratio of ingredients was off, your planter could break down over time.
- Avoid letting water freeze inside your planter. Remember how porous hypertufa planters are? If they fill with water and then freeze, the water could expand so much that it cracks your planter open. If you're going to have some freezing weather, either take your planter inside or don't water it until the cold spell is over.[25]
- Most plants don't do well in freezing weather anyway, so it's a good idea to take them inside.
- You can mix up your dry ingredients ahead of time and store them in an airtight container until you need them.
[Edit]Warnings - Always wear gloves when working with Portland cement, as it can irritate your skin.
[Edit]Things You'll Need - 3 parts peat moss
- 3 parts Perlite
- 2 parts Portland cement
- Water
- Container in which to mix (wheelbarrow, large plastic bin/bucket)
- Gloves
- Shovel or trowel
- Plastic plant pots or other containers to use as forms
[Edit]References |
| How to Make Gummy Bears Posted: 05 Dec 2020 04:00 PM PST Gummy bears are some of the simplest candies to make at home. At their core, they are just 4 ingredients: water, sugar, gelatin, and flavoring. Water and gelatin, when blended, heated, and cooled, naturally form a chewy candy, so you don't need any expensive equipment or odd ingredients to create homemade gummy bears. To get bear shapes, you will need gummy bear molds. [Edit]Ingredients [Edit]Quick and Easy Gummies - of cold water
- 2 tbsp (20 g) of unflavored gelatin
- 1 packet (85 g) of flavored gelatin
[Edit]Classic Gummy Bears - of gelatin, 250 bloom
- of water
- of sugar
- of sorbitol powder
- of glucose syrup, or
- of tartaric or citric acid
- of food grade essential oil, any flavor
Prep time: 20-25 minutes (active prep: 5-10 minutes)
Cook time: 10-15 minutes
Total time: 30-40 minutes [Edit]Quick and Easy Gummies - Place of cold water in a small saucepan on the stove. Don't start the stove yet. It is easiest to mix the ingredients right in the pan since the gummy mixture will stick slightly if you try and transfer it from another container.
- Add 2 tbsp (20 g) of unflavored gelatin to the water. You can find this at most grocery stores in the baking aisle.
- For a vegan substitute, try agar agar powder, which you can buy online or from a health food store. You can substitute agar agar for gelatin in the same amounts, so there's no need to adjust your measurements for this recipe.[1]
- Add 1 packet (85 g) of flavored gelatin and mix well. The most common brand is Jell-O. The flavor you use will determine the color and flavor of the final gummies.
- Flavored gelatin comes in many flavors and colors, so you can make a whole rainbow of gummy bears. For example, you could get strawberry, orange, lime, and blue raspberry.
- Heat up the mixture on medium-low heat for 10-15 minutes. Just keep stirring occasionally so that all the gelatin is completely dissolved in the water. Go slowly so that none of the candy burns.
- Turn the heat off and pour the mixture into a mixing cup. Any cup that is easily poured is fine. You can also use an eyedropper or a candy pump for more intricate designs.
- Pour the mixture into your molds and put them in the freezer for 15-20 minutes. Simply pour the warm gelatin mixture into your candy mold and freeze it until it is set. The gummy bears are now ready to eat.[2]
- If you don't have a mold, you can make gummy drops on some parchment paper instead.
- You can leave the gummies in the freezer longer, if you like. Frozen gummy bears are chewier and taste juicier than refrigerated or room-temperature gummies.[3] If you put them in an airtight container, they'll keep for up to a year in the freezer before their quality starts to decline.[4]
[Edit]Classic Gummy Bears - Pre-measure your ingredients to make classic "Gold Bears." To get perfect, store-bought texture and taste in your gummies, you'll need a few harder-to-find ingredients as well as high-end gelatin (known as 250 bloom). Measure your ingredients by weight instead of by volume for more accurate results. Weigh them out in advance and have them on hand to be quickly mixed in—timing in candy making is key. To make this classic gummy bear recipe, you'll need:
- of gelatin, 250 bloom
- of water
- of sugar
- of sorbitol powder
- of glucose syrup, or
- of tartaric or citric acid
- of food grade essential oil, any flavor
- Mix your gelatin and water. You can mix them together with a whisk or, like classic candy makers, in a water bath. If you're mixing with a whisk, combine the water and gelatin directly in the saucepan over low heat until the gelatin dissolves.[5]
- To do a water bath, warm a large bowl of water up so that it is hot, but not boiling. Mix the of gelatin and of water in a Ziplock bag and let it rest in the water bath for 30 minutes.
- The bag should be free of lumps or streaks when it is fully mixed.
- Blend your sugar, sorbitol, and glucose syrup on the stove at medium heat. Stir the ingredients well so that they're properly mixed up, but not boiling or bubbling. If you have a candy thermometer, get them to .
- Mix in your gelatin mixture slowly. With the heat still on, mix in the gelatin and water mixture from earlier. Stir until it is all completely mixed, then turn the heat off and move quickly to the next step.
- Add in your desired flavorings. You can flavor your gelatin with juice, flavoring acids (such as citric or tartaric acid), or flavored oils or extracts. You can also add 1/3 cup (about 77 g) of well-pureed fruit, like strawberries.
- For instance, lime, lemon, or orange juice are all good choices if you want to add a burst of citrus flavor.
- For a more unusual flavor, try a flavoring oil or extract, such as vanilla extract, orange rind oil, or cherry extract.[6] If you use an essential oil, make sure it's labeled as "edible" or "food grade," since some essential oils are harmful to eat.[7]
- This is also the time to add any food coloring.[8]
- Pour the mixture into your mold. You can use a light coating of cornstarch to prevent the final gummies from sticking, but many gummy-making pans are already non-stick. Simply pour the mixture into the mold then freeze it for 4-5 hours, or until the gummies are firm and completely set.[9]
[Edit]Flavoring without Packets - Sprinkle your gummies lightly with citric acid to get a sour coating. Citric acid is a preservative, and it is not great for your teeth, so go lightly. A small amount is enough for a nice sour kick.
- Use lemon and honey for citrus gummy bears. To make citrus gummy bears, you simply need to use some orange and lemon juice instead of a processed Jell-O packet. Honey also makes a healthier alternative to the corn syrup used in many store-bought gummies. To do this, mix the following ingredients in the saucepan, turn on the heat, then add 3 tablespoons (28 g) of gelatin. Continue like normal after the gelatin is added:
- of orange juice
- of lemon juice
- of honey
- Try pureed strawberries or berries in your gummies. This incredible, fruity gummy is a big hit. Make sure the berries are thawed before adding them. Simply mix the following ingredients, then add 3 tbsp (28 g) of gelatin slowly as you heat up the mixture like normal.
- ⅔ cup (174 g) of pureed strawberries/blueberries/raspberries
- of water
- of fresh lemon juice
- of honey[10]
- Replace the water with milk for a creamier texture. If you don't eat dairy, even almond, soy, rice, coconut, or oat milk works well and imparts a distinct, creamy texture and feel to the common gummy. To make creamy gummies, whisk half the milk in with the gelatin. Then heat it up like normal, whisking in the other half right at the end before it comes off the heat.[11]
- Adding a touch of vanilla or almond extract, or even some cinnamon, to the mixture can take it to new heights.
- This substitute works with basic gummies as well as the pureed fruit versions.
- The candy might stick to flimsy plastic molds, so try to get sturdy ones.
- A very light coating of non-stick cooking spray can be used to line the plastic mold to make it easier for the candy to release when it is ready. Some recipes use cornstarch as well.
- You can use 1 tsp (about 2-3 g) of Kool-Aid instead of flavored Jell-O.
- Try using fruit purée mixed with water to thin it down. It will thicken up and give you an awesome burst of fruity flavor.
[Edit]Warnings - Not all gelatin is vegan, kosher, or halal. Check the ingredients carefully before purchasing if you have any special dietary needs.
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Quick and Easy Gummies - Small saucepan
- Measuring cups and spoons
- Whisk
- Gummy bear molds
[Edit]Classic Gummy Bears - Kitchen scale
- Small saucepan
- Ziplock bag (for water bath)
- Whisk
- Gummy bear molds
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Fix Christmas Lights That Are Half Out Posted: 05 Dec 2020 08:00 AM PST The joy of decorating for the holidays can be dampened a little by a pesky half string of lights that refuses to glow. While your instinct may be to just toss the whole string and buy a replacement, there are some simple measures you can take to possibly repair the string. After identifying the problem, you can try replacing any bad bulbs or fuses, or repairing a bad shunt (in incandescent bulbs only). With luck, your holiday decorating will brighten back up! [Edit]Troubleshooting the Problem - Remove corrosion from the plug prongs and plug the string in again. If the plug prongs on your string of lights look dark or corroded, bring back their brass shine by rubbing them with a sheet of medium or fine grit sandpaper. Use a clean cloth or tack cloth to wipe away any sanding dust, then try plugging in the lights again.[1]
- Corrosion on the plug prongs adds resistance that may prevent the necessary voltage from flowing through the light string. Once you clear the corrosion away, your lights may work again!
- If this doesn't work, move on to other troubleshooting measures.
- Plug a light string that works into the half-out string. In other words, plug one end of your half-working string into an outlet, then connect a fully-functioning string to its other end. Before doing this, confirm that the second string is fully functional by plugging it into the outlet on its own.[2]
- If the second string still works, then you likely have a problem with a bad bulb or fuse in the first string.
- If the functioning string doesn't work when plugged into the half-working string, there's likely a problem with the wiring or, if you have incandescent bulbs, one or more shunts within the bulbs.[3]
- Run a bulb tester over the string to find any bad bulbs. If you've narrowed down your likely problem to bad bulbs or bad fuses, use a bulb tester if you have one. Plug in the string of lights, then test each dark bulb by either touching it with or inserting it into the tester, depending on your model.[4]
- Depending on your tester model, it may beep or light up when you find a bad bulb.
- If you find one bad bulb, keep checking for more. Mark each one with masking tape so you know which ones to replace.
- Move on to replacing any bad bulbs that you find. If you don't find any bad bulbs, move on to checking and replacing the fuses.
- You can get a bulb tester anywhere holiday lights are sold. Consider buying a combination model that includes a tester and repair tool.
[Edit]Changing a Bad Bulb - Pull up from the plastic seat of the bulb, not the bulb itself. If you tug on the bulb itself, you'll probably just pull it and its 2 lead wires out of the plastic seat that fits into the socket. Instead, work your thumbnail into the small gap between the bulb seat and the socket exterior, then lift the seat and bulb together out of the socket.[5]
- For your safety, always unplug the string of lights before replacing a bulb.
- Some bulb seats have plastic latches that snap onto the socket exterior. Simply lift up any latches before pulling out the bulb and seat.
- Use a replacement bulb that's an exact match. Holiday lights tend to look very similar, but they're not universal. Different manufacturers may use slightly different bulbs, seats, sockets, and/or lead wires, any of which may prevent a non-matching replacement bulb from working properly. If you have the replacement bulbs that came with the string, use them first.[6]
- When buying strings of lights, consider buying an extra string for every 3 or so that you buy—that is, buy 8 strings if you need 6. Use the extra string(s) simply for backup bulbs. Pull the bulbs from the extra string(s), put them in a labeled bag, and store the bulb-free string(s) for use if the wiring on one of your other strings goes bad.
- If you don't have an exact match, don't try to force a bulb that doesn't completely fit into place. Non-matching bulbs are far more likely to fail and, in very rare cases, may present a fire hazard if they short. It's safer to just buy replacement light strings.
- Press the new bulb securely in place, then test it. Check to make sure that the 2 small lead wires are snug along opposite sides of the bulb seat. Then, press the bulb straight down into the socket until the seat is snugly in place. Plug the string of lights back in—if the whole string lights up, you're all set![7]
- If all the lights don't come on, run the tester over your replacement bulb to make sure it is seated properly. If it isn't, try removing and re-setting it again. If it is, move on to checking for other problems with the string of lights.
[Edit]Replacing the Fuse - Slide open the fuse compartment with a small screwdriver. On the male-side end of the string of lights (the side with the plug prongs), look for a small compartment cover. Slide this cover out toward the plug prongs to expose the fuse compartment.[8]
- A small screwdriver comes in handy here, although you may be able to slide open the compartment with an opened paperclip or your fingernail.
- Use an opened paperclip or other small tool to remove the fuses. In nearly all cases you'll find 2 small fuses inside the compartment—they look like tiny glass capsules with metallic tips. Use the end of an opened paperclip as a lever to get underneath and lift up each fuse.[9]
- Check for signs that one or both fuses have blown. If the glass section of the fuse is dark or looks burned on the inside, the fuse has blown. If you can't tell for sure, it's best to assume the fuse has blown and replace it.[10]
- A blown fuse occurs when the small sacrificial wire within the fuse melts. It's meant to do so as a protective measure if an excessive current passes through the line, although fuses can fail for other reasons as well.
- Install replacement fuses that are the same size and amperage. Unlike bulbs, holiday light fuses usually are identical across brands. They're nearly always the same size and rated for 3 amps, as indicated by a "3A" notation on the fuse. For the easiest replacement option, use the extra fuses that came with the string of lights.[11]
- Push your replacement fuses down into the compartment until they are fully seated. The tip of a pen may come in handy to help push the fuse in place. Slide the cover back over the compartment, then plug in the string and see if all the lights work.
- If replacing any bad bulbs and fuses hasn't solved your problem, you likely have an issue with a bad shunt (in incandescent lights) or bad wiring.
[Edit]Fixing a Damaged Shunt - Purchase a holiday light repair tool. If you use a lot of light strings in your holiday decorations, a light repair tool can be a wise investment. Look for them wherever holiday lights are sold, and expect to pay around $25-$30 USD.[12]
- A good light repair tool is multi-functional. It should act as a voltage detector, bulb tester, bulb remover, and shunt repairer.
- The best-known option is likely the LightKeeper Pro, which looks like a small plastic pistol.
- Remove a bulb in or close to the section that won't light. If your light repair tool has a bulb remover, use it according to the product instructions. Otherwise, use your thumbnail to pry the plastic seat of the bulb from the socket.[13]
- You can remove any bulb in the darkened section, or even a lit bulb that's near the darkened section. Unplug the light string before removing a bulb, though.
- Insert the tool in the socket and send one or more pulses as instructed. The LightKeeper Pro, for instance, has a prong that fits into the light socket. Once it's in place, pull the trigger on the device to send a pulse of energy through the string of lights.[14]
- Follow the specific instructions for your light repair tool. You may be instructed to trigger several pulses through the light string.
- Shunts are small backup wires inside each incandescent bulb that are meant to take over if the filament in the bulb fails, thereby maintaining a completed circuit. The pulses from the light repair tool should be enough to melt the insulated coating and activate any shunts that aren't working.
- Replace the bulb and test the light string again. Remove your light repair tool and press the bulb back into the socket firmly. With any luck, the entire string will light up when you plug in the lights![15]
- If the string still won't light fully, it's probably time to just replace the whole thing.
- Most light strings are actually 2 separate strings that are wired together in the middle. This is the case if your lights have a section near the middle with only 2 coiled wires, instead of the 3 you'll find elsewhere. In theory, this means you can cut off the non-functioning half of the light string and splice in a new end plug or half string of lights. However, consider this only if you have moderate or higher electrical skills.[16]
[Edit]Warnings - Do not attempt to replace bulbs or fuses when a light string is plugged in. The risk of electric shock is real and should not be taken lightly.
[Edit]References |
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário