| How to Play Hungry Hungry Hippos Posted: 21 Mar 2021 01:00 AM PDT With its brightly-colored hippos and marbles, few games are as iconic and hands-on as Hasbro's Hungry Hungry Hippos. This game is easy to learn, and offers fast, mayhem-filled fun for 2-4 players ages 4 and up. Once you've assembled and attached the hippos around the "pond," you'll be ready to get started! [Edit]Gameplay - Assign a hippo to each player. Place the hippos and pond on a flat, open surface, where all players have easy access to a hippo. Let each player pick the hippo they'd like to play as—in the newest version of the game, there are yellow, orange, green, and blue game pieces to choose from.[1]
- Believe it or not, the hungry hippos all have names! According to Hasbro, the green hippo is named Veggie Potamus, the yellow one is named Bottomless Potamus, the blue one is named Sweetie Potamus, and the orange one is named Hungry Hippo.
- Vintage versions of the game might have a purple or pink hippo instead of the blue one. In this version of the game, the purple hippo is named Lizzie, the pink hippo is Happy, the orange one is Henry, the green one is Homer, and the yellow one is Harry.[2]
- Release 1 marble into the pond. Choose a player to press the black, square button near their marble release pond—this is known as the marble release lever. Wait for a single marble to roll into the center of the pond.[3]
- Push down the lever along the back of the hippo to grab the marble. Once the marble rolls into the pond, pump the lever up and down to open your hippo's mouth. Do your best to "eat" the marble before any other hippos do, continuing to press the lever until the marble gets "eaten."[4]
- You can press the lever repeatedly, or wait for the marble to roll toward your hippo—try out different strategies and see what works for you!
- Release a second marble from the next player. Working in a clockwise fashion, invite the next player to press their marble release lever. As you did before, press your hippo's lever up and down to "chomp" and collect the marble.[5]
- The marble will go into the well attached to the side of your hippo.
- Continue releasing and catching marbles until there are none left. Go in a clockwise direction, with each player releasing 1 marble at a time. Keep pressing your hippo's lever as you try to "eat" the marble before the other players.[6]
- There will be 20 total rounds, since there are 20 total marbles.
- Count up the marbles to declare a winner. Check your hippo's well to see how many marbles your hippo "ate" during the game. The player with the most marbles is the winner![7]
- Create a harder game by releasing all the marbles at once. If you and your friends are seasoned Hungry Hungry Hippos players, invite everyone to press their marble release levers at once. Then, everyone presses the levers on their hippos until all the marbles are "eaten."[8]
- To start the game fairly, ask the person with the nearest birthday to yell "go" before everyone presses their buttons.
- Raise the stakes with the golden marble. At the end of the game, see which hippo ate the golden marble. The player with the golden marble wins the game![9]
[Edit]Assembly and Setup - Pull off the hippos from the storage tray. All 4 hippos are secured to a square, blue tray. To remove the pieces, pinch the sides of each hippo, lifting them up and off the tray.[10]
- Remove the marbles from their storage compartment. Flip the blue "pond" over—this is the large, blue tray where you'll be playing the game. Pull off the blue, circular lid along the bottom center of the pond and remove all the marbles inside. Then, stick the lid back into place.[11]
- You should have 19 red marbles along with 1 gold marble. Don't worry—the color difference doesn't mean anything unless you're playing a special version of the game!
- Secure 1 hippo to each side of the pond. Place the blue pond in your play area. Line up each hippo along all 4 edges of the pond, aligning the hippo's front tabs into the grooves on each side. Then, press down on the hippo to secure it in place.[12]
- Each hippo has a small well attached to its side—this is where all the marbles go once the hippo "eats" them.
- Fill each marble release tray with 5 marbles. Look to the right of each hippo—you should see a thin, curved slot along the edge of the pond. Fill each slot with 5 marbles before you start playing.[13]
- The golden marble can go in any random marble release tray.[14]
- Pull on each hippo's neck so they're ready for gameplay. Press down on the hippos with your thumb. Using your opposite hand, pinch and pull the hippo's head and neck forward. Then, push the hippo's head down, so it's ready to get chomping.[15]
- As a test, press the back lever a couple times. The hippo's head should lift and drop as you pump the lever.
[Edit]Storage - Remove the hippos and marbles from the pond. Grab all the spare marbles and collect them in 1 area. Then, flip the pond upside-down. Look for 2 plastic tabs beneath each hippo—pinch these together with your fingers to release the game piece.[16]
- Put the hippos back on their storage tray. Press the hippos into place over the side tabs on the tray, so they stay put. Arrange each hippo on a corner of the storage tray; then, pull out the neck of each hippo, so its head rests on the side tray of each game piece.[17]
- For instance, the green hippo's head rests on the orange hippo's tray, the orange hippo's head rests on the yellow hippo's tray, and so on.
- Store the marbles in a tray along the bottom of the pond. Pull off the circular storage cap along the bottom center of the tray. Place all the marbles inside the storage container, and secure the lid back into place. At this point, slide the storage tray and pond into the original packaging box until your next game![18]
- The game is a lot more fun with 4 players, but you can still have a great time with just 2 people. Assign 2 hippos to each player, and let the marble-eating madness begin![19]
[Edit]Warnings - Hungry Hungry Hippos has some small plastic marbles, which can be a choking hazard for kids under 3 years old.[20]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to Wear Military Pants Posted: 20 Mar 2021 05:00 PM PDT Military pants aren't just for service members! These rugged pants are very popular with the general public for their comfort and durability. They're also extremely versatile, and will work with your outfit whether you're on a hike or sitting in a meeting. Try these tricks to make your military pants fit any occasion. Anyone looks amazing in them! [Edit]Everyday Style - Pair camo patterns with solid, neutral colors for the best match. If your pants have a camo pattern, you might be wondering how you can make that work with your outfit. It's easier than you might think. Camo usually works best with neutral, solid colors. Think black, gray, or white. You can't go wrong with these choices.[1]
- This color code can work with any of your accessories too. Belts, bags, backpacks, and shoes in solid, neutral colors will look great.
- You could also be more bold if you want to. Why not try a pink shirt or jacket with your camo pants? Everyone will definitely notice you!
- Camo usually doesn't look good with other prints, like leopard. Save those for another outfit.
- Put on a simple T-shirt for a casual look. Military pants are a great pairing with any casual outfit. T-shirts, tank tops, polos, V-necks will all bring together a comfy, relaxed look.[2]
- It's easy to make the outfit a bit more formal by tucking your shirt in, or wearing a button-up instead.
- A nice blouse would also make your outfit more business-casual, if that's the look you're going for.
- Complete your outfit with sneakers to look relaxed and laid-back. If you're just heading out to the store or seeing your friends, sneakers are a great choice. They go well with tight or loose pants and almost any color pattern. Any brand with neutral colors that match your pants will look great![3]
- Casual, toned-down walking sneakers usually work best. Running shoes with wilder colors will probably clash with your outfit.
- Plain white sneakers with military pants are a popular look right now.
- Try a denim jacket for a casual accessory. Denim jackets are a great accessory for any outfit, including with military pants. The color matches nicely with dark green or camo patterns, so you can stay warm without looking too formal.[4]
- Washed-out or faded denim usually works best with military pants. Darker colors might not match as well, but they could definitely work.
- Pick a tighter fit to accent your body shape. Military pants are traditionally baggier, but don't let that stop you! Picking a tighter fit will accent your body more and show your curves.[5]
- Tighter fits usually work well for more formal outfits, so try this look if you have a meeting or event to go to.
- Military camo prints also come in leggings or skinny jeans, if you'd prefer an even tighter fit.
- Add some metallic jewelry to make the outfit look more feminine. If the military pants are a little too masculine for your look, you can soften the look a bit with some jewelry. Shiny silver or gold hoop earrings, necklaces, and bracelets will give your outfit the feminine look you're going for.[6]
- Shiny, metallic buckles and clasps will look great too. Keep this in mind when you're choosing a bag or belt.
[Edit]Formal Options - Choose a button-up shirt or blouse for a more formal look. Who says you can't wear your military pants to a dinner or business meeting? A nice top can really transform your whole look for fancy occasions. Instead of a T-shirt or tank top, pick a dress shirt or blouse instead.[7]
- If you're wearing a button-up shirt, tuck it in to look more put-together. If you want to look more relaxed, leave the shirt out instead.
- Dress up the outfit with a blazer or sport coat. It's easy to make the look a bit sharper with a nice jacket. Men and women can use this trick to sneak military pants into more formal events.[8]
- For more formal occasions, wear a button-up shirt tucked in with a nice belt. A nice blouse would work too.
- Blazers also work well with T-shirts and untucked shirts for less formal outings.
- Pair the pants with nice shoes or heels. A fancy pair of shoes or heels can bring any outfit together. Colors like black, gray, brown, and white will work especially well.[9]
- For a men's look, any dress shoe will work. You could also try a loafer for a more business-casual look.
- Heels will look best with tighter pants that accent your body a bit.
- Remember to add a nice top and maybe even a jacket to really pull this outfit together.
[Edit]Authentic Military Dress - Wear the pants properly fitted around your waist. Service members don't raise or lower their pants. For an authentic look, make sure the pants sit snugly around your waist and you can move comfortably in them.[10]
- Make sure to get the right waist size. If the pants are too big, they'll sag and it'll be tough to look authentic.
- Put on boots for a classic military look. When you think of military pants, you probably think of boots. This is why they're the perfect footwear for this outfit. Pick a nice, neutral-colored pair of boots to go with your pants for an authentic style.[11]
- If you're in the service, then your tactical boots are the ideal pairing.
- You can wear dress boots for more formal occasions, or hiking and work boots for outdoor work. Anything works.
- Black and brown boots work best, but tan or faded boots are a great choice too.
- Blouse the pants above your boots for a more authentic look. This is how members of the military wear their pants. Start by putting your boots and pants on, then rolling your pants up to your knees. Wrap a hair tie or bungee cord about halfway up your shin. Pull the pant legs down to your boots so they cover the cord. Roll the pants underneath the cord on each leg so the ends rest slight above your boot. Finally, pull the ends down a bit so they rest on the laces of your boots.[12]
- There are also other blousing methods, like tucking the pants into the boots or using a rubber band on the boot. Servicemen have different tricks for blousing.
- Blousing is meant for boots, but it could work with other shoes as well.
- Some military pants have elastic bands built in to make blousing easier.
[Edit]Warnings - Remember to never try to impersonate a military member. This is not only disrespectful, but against the law.
[Edit]References |
| How to Caulk a Shower Posted: 20 Mar 2021 09:00 AM PDT Caulking a shower is a simple project that most home owners can do themselves. If your shower has peeling caulk or no caulk at all, take the time to get the seams sealed properly. To get the job done correctly, you need to use a caulk and tools that are right for your surface. Then with a bit of time and the right technique you will have a well-caulked shower that will keep water and mold out of your walls and will look great. [Edit]Removing Old Caulk and Cleaning the Surface - Slice away any old caulk. There are a variety of tools you can use to remove the caulk, but it's most effective to slice it off with a razor scraper, utility knife, or five-in-one painter's tool. Using quick, sharp strokes, slice under the length of all old caulk beads. Go along each edge of the caulk with your blade to get it removed.[1]
- If you are caulking a new shower, there won't be any caulk for you to remove.
- Note that metal blades and chemical caulk removers can damage plastic tubs. Use a plastic blade if your tub or shower is made of plastic.
- Pull out loosened pieces old caulk. Once you have loosened the caulk with a knife, pull it off using your fingers. In most cases, if you sliced along both edges of the caulk thoroughly, you will be able to grab one end and pull a long strip out all in one piece.[2]
- If you can't get a section out easily, cut along the edges again and try to pry it out with the knife.
- Clean out any debris and residue in the seams. After you slice off the majority of the caulk, there will likely be some small pieces left on the walls. Scrub the sides of the shower with a dry, nonabrasive pad or sponge to remove as much of the old caulk as you can. Follow that by wiping down the surface with rubbing alcohol or scrubbing it with a multi-surface cleanser to remove any remaining caulk, shower scum, or grease.[3]
- If your old caulk was made of silicone, use a pad or rag soaked in mineral spirits to break down any remaining bits of caulk.
- Use a soft rag and not an abrasive one, so that the shower surface is not scarred.
- Wipe the area down and then let it dry. Use a damp, clean rag to wipe all seams. This will remove any cleaner, caulk dust, and other dirt from the area. Then dry down the area thoroughly with a dry rag, hair dryer, or paper towels. You can also simply let the area sit until you are sure the seams are all completely dry.[4]
- If you leave debris or dirt on the surface, the new caulk will not stick as well and not last as long.
- Line the joints with painter's tape. Place a strip of tape on either side of each joint being caulked. The lines of tape should run parallel to each other and be spaced roughly 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) apart from each other.[5]
- The tape is being used to help keep the bead of caulk straight and uniform.
[Edit]Choosing and Prepping the Caulk - Pick a caulk that is made for use in showers. When selecting a caulk for your shower, use one labeled "Tub and Tile" or "Kitchen and Bath," as these are chemically formulated to resist mildew and to stick to smooth surfaces like your shower. In particular, there are 2 types of caulk usually used for showers:[6]
- Silicone: This is a very flexible, tough, and waterproof caulk. On the downside, it can also be difficult to smooth and may require the use of mineral spirits to clean up. The color range can also be fairly limited.
- Acrylic latex: This caulk is easier to apply, clean up, and smooth out. It also comes in a wider range of colors. However, it dries harder and shrinks more than silicone caulk does, so acrylic latex caulk will probably have a shorter lifespan.
- Pick out a professional-grade caulk gun. Cheaper guns tend to be less predictable and may lead to sloppier application. A professional-grade gun applies more consistent pressure.[7]
- A cradle caulk gun will produce the best, most even pressure and is a better long-term investment than a frame caulk gun. If using the latter, though, get one that is labeled as being "dripless."
- A professional level caulk gun typically does not cost a lot. Power caulk guns can be very pricey, but all you need is a professional hand-powered caulking gun, which might fit into your budget better.
- Trim the nozzle of the caulk container. Trim it near the tip, cutting it off at a 45 degree angle. The hole should be smaller than the joints you are sealing. As a general rule, the hole of the tube should actually be 2/3 the size of the joint you are filling. The measurement for most showers should be about .[8]
- Use a utility knife with a fresh blade or a 1-inch (2.5-cm) wide, razor-sharp chisel to cut the tip off the nozzle.
- Some tubes of caulk will even have a line on the nozzle to indicate the point at which you should cut.
- Smooth out the edges of the tip after cutting it off, if necessary. If a piece of plastic remains hanging on the nozzle after being cut, pare it down with your utility knife or a piece of sand paper. Otherwise, this little burr can prevent the bead from being smooth.[9]
- Puncture the inner seal in the caulk tube. Push a nail or small dowel down inside the tip of the caulk to puncture the seal. The seal is at the back end of the tip where it meets the tube. This releases the caulk into the tip and allows you to apply it.[10]
- If a nail does not prove long enough, use a thin, stiff wire, such as electrical wire or a coat hanger.
- Load the tube into the caulk gun. How you insert the tube depends on what type of gun you have. In most cases, you will start by pulling the plunger of the gun out to its fully extended position. Then put the tube in the chamber of the gun and push the plunger down into the core of the tube until it stops.[11]
- In some cases, once the plunger is in place it will put enough pressure on the tube that caulk will start coming out of the tip right away. Just be prepared for this and catch any caulk coming out with a moist rag.
- Give the handle a little squeeze. After placing your caulk tube in the caulk gun, give the handle a slight squeeze to begin the flow of the caulk. Release the pressure off the handle once you see the caulk at the tip and clean off any excess with a moist rag.[12]
- This brings the caulk right up to the tip of the caulk tube, so it will be ready when you bring it up to the shower joint.
[Edit]Applying Caulk to the Shower Joints - Position the caulk gun tip at the top of the seam you're starting on. The hole in the tip should be pointed at the center of the joint and should be in contact with the joint. Also, position the tip at a 45-degree angle down the line of the joint so that the tip is pointing slightly in the opposite direction of how you will be moving down the joint.[13]
- Apply even pressure as you move the caulk gun along the joint. Press the trigger gently to release the caulk bead into the joint. As you move the caulk gun along the length of the joint, continue applying even pressure to create an even line.[14]
- You can either push or pull the gun. It is entirely a matter of preference, so do whichever option feels most comfortable to you.
- If you are right-handed, try bracing the nozzle with your left hand and squeezing the handle with your right. For left-handed individuals, try the opposite.
- Match the speed you move the gun to the speed the caulk is flowing. As the caulk starts to come out, keep moving the gun along the seam you are filling. If the rate at which the caulk is flowing differs too much from the rate at which you move the caulk gun, you could end up with too little or too much caulk along the seam.[15]
- If you move the caulk gun too fast, the bead will become too thin and will break into chunks along the seam.
- If you move the caulk gun too slow, you will end up with excess caulk in the seam, wasting caulk and making smoothing out the seam cleanly more difficult.
- Smooth the caulk while it is still wet. Use a dampened finger or a moist, lint-free cloth rag to smooth out the bead of caulk immediately after applying it. If using a rag, press it into and along the caulk with your finger to apply enough pressure to make the bead smooth. If using your fingertip, clean your finger off periodically with a damp rang to prevent the caulk from smearing beyond the seam.[16]
- You can also press the bead down with masking tape to create an even line. Just be sure to pull the tape away before the caulk starts to get tacky.[17]
- Work in a continuous motion to avoid inconsistencies and to create a smooth, concave line.
- If you can do the caulking and smoothing at once, you will save yourself time. Place the tip of your index finger over the joint as you caulk. By applying a small amount of even and consistent downward pressure, you will be able to apply and smooth the caulk at once.
- Smoothing is essential for both aesthetic and practical purposes. During the smoothing process, the caulk is forced to adhere more securely to the surface it fills and the finished product looks more neat and professional.
- Wear a disposable nitrile, latex, or vinyl glove to protect your fingers from wear and tear and to keep them clean. Wearing gloves makes the process much easier to clean up afterward since the glove can simply be removed and thrown away.
[Edit]Cleaning up after Caulking - Clean up with a damp rag or mineral spirits, if necessary. Clean up any areas where caulk has accidentally gotten on the shower surround before it dries. For acrylic caulks, use a damp rag to clean up mistakes. For silicone caulks, wipe down any excess caulk with a soft cloth rag soaked in mineral spirits.[18]
- Remove the tape before the caulk is dry. Peel the tape off slowly and do not let it touch any of the fresh caulk. If the tape left ridges of caulk behind along the edge, clean these up by smoothing the area out again with a damp rag or damp finger.[19]
- Pull the tape off at a downward, outward angle. This will keep the removed tape away from the bead, minimizing the chance of messing it up.
- Let the caulk cure before using the shower. Look at the label on your caulk tube for curing times. In most cases, it's a good idea to wait at least 24 hours before running the water or using the shower.[20]
- If you run the water over the caulk before it finishes curing, you might rinse some of it away or cause it to smear and run, creating a big mess and weakening its seal on the seam.
- Some quick-curing caulks only need to cure for about 30 minutes before you can get them wet.[21]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Caulk
- Caulk gun
- Painter's tape
- Rags
- Utility knife or other sharp blade
- Fine sandpaper
- Nail, small dowel, or wire
- Mineral spirits, if necessary
- Disposable gloves (optional)
- Keep in mind that caulk won't make your shower waterproof, so if you have a leak anywhere, you need to address that before you caulk.[22]
[Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
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