| How to Make Cat Eyes With Eyeliner Posted: 23 Apr 2021 01:00 AM PDT Cat eyes give you a dramatic, glamorous look that's both classic and trendy. When you first start doing a cat eye, it's easy to smudge your eyeliner or make it uneven, but you can master the technique with practice. If you're ready to try out a cat eye, you have two options for drawing it on. You can use a makeup brush to help create an easy outline for your cat eye or use tape as a guide. For cat eyes, liquid eyeliner is queen, but you can try to layer pencil eyeliner if that's all you have. [Edit]Creating an Outline with a Makeup Brush - Apply neutral or light eyeshadow from your lash line up to your crease. Dip your brush into a neutral, nude, or light eyeshadow, then brush it across your lid, working from your lashline to the crease. The eyeshadow will prime your lid and allow for a smoother application of eyeliner. It will also give the eyeliner something to cling to, so it will stay put and won't smudge or rub off.[1]
- Because cat eyes are so dramatic, darker eyeshadow colors can look overdone. Instead, consider using a color that matches your skin tone or is slightly lighter.
- Don't use a cream eyeshadow. The eyeliner won't stick to it, and both the liner and eyeshadow could easily wipe off.[2]
- Angle a brush from your nose to your outer brow to find your end point. Hold a slim makeup brush against the side of your nose and angle it until it points to the end of your eyebrow—this is the line you want your wing to follow.[3] You want your wings to be as identical as possible—different lengths, widths, and angles will look off.[4]
- If your eyelids are hooded, make the angle less upward and more horizontally straight. This will extend your lash line and open up your eyes.[5]
- Use eyeliner to make a dot just above your crease to mark the tip of your wing. The higher you make your dot, the thicker and more dramatic your cat eye will be. Make sure the dots are at the same angle and height on both eyes before moving on.[6] It's much easier to erase a dot and move it than to erase an entire wing.
- If you aren't happy with the placement of your dot, use a cotton swab dipped in eye makeup remover, primer, or moisturizer to wipe it away. Then, lightly dab your foundation onto the clean spot and try again.
- Draw a line connecting the dot to the outer corner of your eye. Don't pull on your skin while drawing the wing. Instead, tilt your head back slightly and lower your gaze so that you can see your lash line. This will help you see what you're doing as you create your cat eyes.[7]
- Although pulling your skin taut may make it easier to draw your line, when you release the skin, your wing will change shape and it may look sloppy.
- Draw a line connecting the dot to the middle of your upper lash line. Gently pull your eyeliner from the corner of your eye to the middle of your lid. Position your line as high as you want your cat eye to go. It's okay if you have eyeshadow peeking out below the line, as you will fill it in later.[8]
- If you have a round eye, try a thicker wing and line. For instance, you might make your line about 2-3 mm thick.[9]
- If you want to extend your lash line and make your eyes look bigger, draw a curved line instead of a straight one. Make sure that the line is curving downwards.[10]
- Fill in the outline you have made, if necessary. Depending on how you angled your initial lines, and how thick you drew them, you may or may not need to fill the outline in. Use your eyeliner to fill in any areas where eyeshadow is peeking through.[11]
- If you drew your top line right at your lash line, then you may not need to add any filler.
- If you're using pencil eyeliner, make several layers to fill in your cat eye.
- Clean up any mistakes with a pointed cotton swab. The pointed tip will allow you to get into corners and clean along lines without accidentally smudging the eyeliner.[12] You can also dip the cotton swab in primer or eye cream and use that to gently remove any excess eyeliner.
- Avoid using makeup remover. It might do the job too well and remove any eyeshadow that you put on earlier.[13]
- Draw a line to connect the inner corner of your eye with your cat eye. Position your eyeliner at the corner of your eye, then slowly pull the liner toward the cat eye. Continue across your eye until you reach the outer corner of your lid. This will make the top of your cat eye look even.[14]
- Try your best to do this in a single, fluid motion. Otherwise, the line may look jerky and uneven.[15]
- Again, avoid pulling on your eyelid. Instead, tilt your head back slightly and lower your gaze so that you can see your lash line.
- You can try tightlining your eyelid, which means you get the liner between your lashes and up against your waterline, but this can be difficult to do and may irritate your eye.
- Thicken the line as it gets closer toward the outer corner of your eye. Try resting your pinkie on your cheekbone while you do this. It will stabilize your hand and make it easier to get a smooth, straight line instead of a shaky one.
- If you are using a felt-tip liner, hold it closer to the middle of the tube so you have more control.[16]
- Finish with mascara. First, apply 1 layer of mascara to your bottom lashes. Then, make several sweeps across your top lashes with your mascara wand.[17]
[Edit]Using Tape as a Guide - Sweep neutral or light eyeshadow from your lash line up to your crease. Use an eyeshadow brush to apply a neutral, nude, or light shade of eyeshadow across your entire lid. The powder will smooth out your lid and help the eyeliner go on smoother. Because cat eyes are so dramatic, consider using a color that matches your skin tone or is slightly lighter instead of a darker color, which can look overdone.
- Avoid using a cream-based eyeshadow. The eyeliner won't stick to that very well, so it could slide right off.
- Avoid putting on under-eye concealer just yet because the tape will take it off. Also, the tape may remove any eyeshadow in that area.[18]
- Take a short piece of clear tape and tap it onto your hand. Stick it to your hand and pull it up several times to remove some of the adhesive. This will make the tape less tacky and gentler on the delicate skin around your eye.[19]
- Tapping the tape on the back of your hand before applying it to your skin will also make it less likely to cause discomfort when you remove it.
- Position the tape along the outer corner of your eye. Place the tape just beneath your lower lashes, and angle the top towards your temple. Then, use the pad of your finger to lightly tap it down so that your eyeliner doesn't bleed under the tape.[20]
- For a more dramatic look, angle the tape towards the end of your eyebrow instead. This will result in a thicker line.
- If your eyelids are hooded, position the tape at less of an upward angle and closer to a horizontally straight line.[21]
- Draw a line from the inner corner of your eye to the outer corner. Apply your liquid, felt tip, or gel eyeliner as you normally would, but make the line thicker as it goes towards the outer corner of your eye. However, don't draw past the corner or onto the tape just yet.[22]
- If you are having trouble applying the eyeliner smoothly, don't tug on the outer corner of your eye. Instead, tilt your head back slightly and lower your gaze to see your lash line. Alternatively, rest your pinkie finger against your cheek to steady your hand as you draw.
- When you're doing cat eyes, it's best to use liquid, felt tip, or gel eyeliner. If you only have pencil eyeliner, you can layer it to create a similar result, but it won't look as smooth.
- Use the tape as a guide to extend the line past the corner of your eye. Slowly pull your eyeliner across your skin just above the tape. As you reach the end of the tape, taper the line to a thin point. Follow the tape line as smoothly as possible, and don't worry if you get some eyeliner onto the tape.[23]
- You can make the "flick" of your cat eye as long or as short as you want. The longer it is, the more dramatic your cat eye will be. When you first start doing a cat eye, it's easiest to make a very short flick by extending your eyeliner slightly past your eye, over your crease.
- Remove the tape carefully and make any touch-ups, if necessary. Grasp the tape by the lower edge, then slowly and gently peel it off of your skin. When you pull the tape off, you will see a nice, crisp line.[24]
- If the tape removed any eyeshadow, carefully patch it up with more eyeshadow.
- If you usually apply any under eye concealer, you can do so now.
- If you used a pencil eyeliner, you may need to do several layers of eyeliner to get a cat eye look.
- Finish off with mascara or false lashes. Apply a few coats on your upper lashes and a single coat on your bottom lashes. For a more glamorous, evening look, curl your lashes or pop on a pair of false lashes.
- The thicker you make your wing, the more retro it will look.
- If you have not yet styled your hair, consider pinning it back. This will keep your face clear of any stray hairs. If you have already styled your hair, consider lightly clipping it back instead.
- Experiment with the length and the angle of the wing to figure out what looks best on you.
- If you're using a pencil liner, try to get it as sharp as possible. Also, you may need to layer it in order to get that dark look.
- If you struggle to apply liquid eyeliner, felt-tip and gel eyeliners are a great option. Felt tip eyeliners work just like a pen or marker, so they're easy to use and offer a great amount of control. Similarly, gel eyeliners are available in pencils, making them easy to use.
- If you're having troubles making a straight line, try using a credit card or business card. For a curved line, try using a spoon.[25]
[Edit]Things You'll Need [Edit]Creating an Outline with a Makeup Brush - Eyeshadow
- Eyeshadow brush
- Eyeliner (liquid is recommended)
- A mirror
- Mascara
[Edit]Using Tape as a Guide - Eyeshadow
- Eyeshadow brush
- Clear tape
- Eyeliner (liquid is recommended)
- A mirror
- Mascara
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References [Edit]Quick Summary |
| How to End a Chess Game Posted: 22 Apr 2021 05:00 PM PDT Reaching the endgame in chess can be really tense as you try to outsmart your opponent. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced player, it's important to know the ways you can finish a match if you're winning or losing. We'll cover a few different patterns you can use to beat the other player, and then go over some other possible endings you might encounter! Note: Some of these steps assume your opponent's moves based on known chess strategies. Your opponent might play differently, so you may have to adapt your strategy. [Edit]Checkmate - Threaten your opponent's king so it can't move to win. Putting a king in checkmate automatically ends the game, so make it your goal for the entire match. Position your pieces so they're attacking your opponent's king, which puts them in check. Once your opponent is in check, they have to either move their king, move another piece to protect their king, or capture the piece you're attacking with. If they aren't able to move into a safe place on the board, then you've put them in checkmate.[1]
- The positions and pieces you use to put your opponent in checkmate vary depending on the plays you made in your early and mid-game.
[Edit]Back Rank Mate - Attack the king in the back row with your rook if it's trapped behind pawns. If your opponent hasn't freed up any of the spaces in front of their king, try to move one of your rooks into your opponent's back row. If all of the spaces between your rook and their king are empty, you can automatically declare checkmate and win against them.[2]
- For example, if your opponent has their king on the space e8 and has pawns on d7, e7, and f7, you can move your rook to a8, b8, g8, or h8 to win.
- You can also win by moving one rook to their back row and your other rook to the row in front of it. That way, they won't be able to move their king without it getting attacked on the next turn.
[Edit]Arabian Mate - Pin the king in a corner with your rook and knight. The checkmate only works if your opponent moves their king into the corner and you have a knight 2 spaces away diagonally from them. Position your rook in one of the spaces right next to your opponent's king to put them in check. Your opponent will want to capture the rook to protect itself, but they won't be able to since you could capture them with your knight on the next turn.[3]
- For example, you trigger an Arabian Mate if your opponent has a king in h8, and you have a knight at f6 and a rook at either h7 or g8.
- This strategy works for either player and it doesn't matter which corner they move the king to.
[Edit]Smothered Mate - Use a knight to capture a king surrounded by its own pieces. Knights can jump over any pieces, so it's really easy to sneak up and attack the other player's king. This only works if the king can't move into an empty square next to it, so it has to be completely surrounded by its own pieces or stuck along the edge of the board. Move your knight into a space that's next to the surrounding pieces where it could jump to the king's space on the next turn. If they can't attack your knight with another piece, then you've won the game![4]
- For example, if your opponent has a king in h8, a rook in g8, and pawns in g7 and h7, you can move your night to f7 to avoid attack and put your opponent in checkmate.
- Be cautious when setting up a Smothered Mate so your opponent can't capture your knight. Otherwise, you may lose it and play the rest of the game disadvantaged.
[Edit]Two Pawn Mate - Defeat your opponent with 2 of your pawns and your king. This ending only works if your opponent's king is stuck in the back row. Position one of your pawns in front of your opponent's king. Put another pawn in a square diagonally behind the first one to keep your piece protected. Finally, move your king behind the first pawn so it can capture the 2 squares diagonally in front of it. Your opponent won't be able to move and you'll win![5]
- For example, if your opponent had their king on e8, you would position your first pawn on e7, the second pawn on d6, and your king on e6 to force a checkmate.
[Edit]Fool's Mate - Win quickly as black with only 2 moves. On the opening turn, if white advances a pawn to f4, move the pawn in front of your king to e6 so you can free up your queen and bishop. If you're playing against someone inexperienced, they may move a pawn to g4 on their next turn. If they do, move your queen diagonally to h4. Since you could capture their king on the next turn and they can't make any moves to protect it, you'll checkmate them and win.[6]
- Experienced chess players usually won't fall for a Fool's Mate since they'll tend to move the pawn at e2 so the king can escape.
- Fool's mate may also work if you're playing white, but it takes 3 turns instead of 2. Open with a pawn to e4. If your opponent moves their pawn to f6, then advance a pawn to d4. If the black player makes a mistake by moving a pawn to g5, then move your king to h5 for a checkmate.[7]
[Edit]Scholar's Mate - Declare victory in 4 moves as white with this beginner pattern. On your opening turn, advance the pawn in front of your king to e4. If your opponent matches your play by moving a pawn to e5, bring your queen out to h5. Your opponent will usually move a knight c6. If they do, slide your king's bishop to c4. If your opponent then moves their other knight to f6, capture the pawn on f7 with your queen to declare checkmate.[8]
- This is one the most basic chess openings and a quick way to win a game.
- Even though the king could capture your queen, you'd be able to immediately capture it next turn with your bishop.
[Edit]Legal's Mate - Sacrifice your queen early on to trap your opponent with your knights. Open the game by moving a pawn to e4. When your opponent moves a pawn to e5, push your knight forward to f3. Your opponent will usually mirror your play and move a knight to c6. Slide your bishop to c4. If they move a pawn to d6, move your other knight to c3. When your opponent moves a bishop to g4, move a pawn to h3. Your opponent will typically move their bishop to h5. Then, move your knight to e5. Let your opponent capture your queen so you can move your bishop to f7 and force a check. Your opponent must move their king to e7, but you can force a checkmate by putting your second knight on d5.[9]
- You can only use Legal's Mate if you're playing as white.
[Edit]Stalemate - Call a stalemate if a player isn't in check but can't make a move. Your opponent can only legally move their king into a space where it can't be captured on the next turn. If you position pieces so their king has no legal moves but they aren't directly put in check, the game immediately ends in a stalemate. Since stalemates are considered ties, you won't be declared the winner even if you can still make a legal move with your pieces.[10]
[Edit]Insufficient Material Draw - End with no winner if you don't have the pieces to force a checkmate. You'll typically win if you end with more pieces on the board than your opponent, but some piece combinations can't force a checkmate. For example, if you and your opponent only have your kings left, neither of you can win and it immediately ends the game in a draw. There also isn't a way you can win if you only have your king and a knight or bishop against a king, or if you have 2 knights.[11]
- The only way you can win a game with insufficient pieces is if your opponent makes a mistake or allows their piece to be put into check.
- You might also reach a draw with insufficient material if you and your opponent both have a king and a minor piece (a knight or bishop).
[Edit]50-Move Draw - Claim a draw if no one captures or moves pawns for 50 moves. To avoid long or drawn-out games, you can only make 50 moves without capturing another piece or advancing one of your pawns. As you're moving your pieces in the endgame, count how many turns pass between either of those movements. Once you reach 50 turns, the game immediately ends in a draw and there isn't a winner.[12]
[Edit]Threefold-Repetition Draw - Finish in a draw if you repeat the same board position 3 times. Games could go on for an indefinite amount of time if you keep repeating the same moves and positions of your pieces. If either you or your opponent takes moves that leave the board in the same position for the third time, either of you can claim a draw and end the game without a winner.[13]
- This stops players from moving the same piece back and forth to draw out the game longer than it needs to be.
[Edit]Resignation - Choose to resign if you think you're going to get checkmated. Sometimes, you can see when your opponent outsmarts you early on in the game and you won't be able to win or recover. Double-check all of your possible moves and make sure there aren't any ways that you're able to come back and win. If you think your opponent has you beat and they're confident about it, tip over your king and resign the game so you don't draw it out.[14]
- Many players resign once they realize they're at a disadvantage so they don't draw out the game any longer than it needs to. That way, you aren't wasting time playing a game you know that you're going to lose.
- Don't choose to resign too late or early just because your opponent seems impatient or too tough. If you're still interested in the game and think you might have a chance, keep playing so you can improve your skills and learn more about the game.
[Edit]Timeout - You'll automatically lose if you run out of time in a competitive match. In competitive matches, you only have a certain amount of time to play the entire game so you don't keep your opponent waiting. If you run out of time on the game clock, you forfeit the game. Your opponent automatically wins if they have the pieces that could force a checkmate.[15]
- You don't have to worry about timing out if you're just playing a casual game with friends.
- If your opponent doesn't have enough pieces, like if they only have their king, then they wouldn't be able to force a checkmate and the game ends in a draw instead.
- Keep playing games of chess with a variety of players so you can continue practicing and building your skills.[16]
- Work on getting your pawns to the other side of the board. That way, you can promote them to queens and get better control of the board.[17]
[Edit]Warnings - Watch out for threats from your opponent while you're playing since they may try tricking you into taking a piece so they can take the advantage next turn.[18]
[Edit]Related wikiHows [Edit]References |
| How to Grow Philodendron from Cuttings Posted: 22 Apr 2021 09:00 AM PDT Philodendron make great houseplants because they thrive in normal indoor conditions away from direct sunlight. If you want to add a philodendron to your inside vegetation, you don't necessarily need to buy a plant from a garden center — you can grow your own from the cuttings of a mature plant.[1] While some philodendron varieties must be grown from seed, many popular houseplant varieties, including the heart-leaf and fiddle-leaf philodendron, are relatively easy to grow from cuttings.[2] [Edit]Taking Your Cuttings - Choose a mature, healthy plant to take your cuttings from in the spring. Start propagating philodendron in early spring (March in the Northern Hemisphere) when the days are beginning to get longer. Identify old growth in a mature plant — the tougher, woodier stems towards the base of the plant rather than the springy new growth at the top and ends of the plant. You'll be taking your cuttings from this old growth.[3]
- If you try to propagate your philodendron in the fall or winter, it may be spring before the plant starts rooting. In the meantime, your cutting will likely rot.
- Find the nodes where the leaf attaches to the main stem. A healthy plant will have many nodes. Your cutting will grow roots from the node. Typically, a philodendron cutting is either an internodal cutting or a leaf-bud cutting.[4]
- Internodal cuttings work for hanging or vining plants. Look for a cluster of nodes so you can cut between them.
- For a leaf-bud cutting, look for a single node off by itself on the main stem. That will make it easier to take your cutting without causing too much damage to the original plant.
- Cut the stem between 2 nodes for most philodendron varieties. Internodal cuttings work best for upright philodendron varieties, including the Green Congo, Rojo Congo, Super Atom, and Moonlight varieties. To make an internodal cutting, use a sharp, clean knife (or pruners) to slice between 2 nodes, taking one of them off for your cutting and leaving the other intact. Cut horizontally or vertically, depending on how the node is sitting on the stem. You don't want to cut into the node.[5]
- Snip just below the node, taking care to leave as little stem as possible under the node. The roots grow from the node, so if there's a lot of stem left under the node, it will just rot off.
- Use a leaf-bud cutting for crawling varieties of philodendron. With a leaf-bud cutting, the leaf and bud are the focus of your cutting rather than the nodes. This type of cutting works best for varieties such as fiddle-leaf, heart-leaf, and Brandi philodendron. To make a leaf-bud cutting, take your knife and cut in a semi-circle around the node on one side of the stem.[6]
- If you cut properly, the stem will come to a point at the top and bottom on either side of the node. Cut around the node, taking care not to cut too deeply into the stem of the original plant. If you take too much from the original plant it will be difficult for it to heal, so leave as much as possible of the original stem intact.
- Take multiple cuttings that are long if possible. If you only have one mature philodendron plant, you may not be able to take more than one cutting without taking too much from the original plant. However, if possible, multiple cuttings give you a better chance that at least one of them will root.[7]
- Avoid cutting your original plant back to a single stem. Leave enough of the plant intact that it can heal and continue to grow.
- Take care not to take any new, bright green growth. It will be less likely to root.
- Snip off any lower leaves and stems on the cutting. Cut leaves closely and carefully, taking care not to damage the main stem. Leave at least 3 or 4 leaves at the top of the cutting.[8]
- The part of the cutting that you submerge in your propagation medium should be free from leaves and stems, which will rot.
[Edit]Rooting the Cuttings - Mix Perlite into potting soil to make the propagation medium. Perlite, vermiculite, orchid bark, and even sand will ensure that your propagation medium is light and loose enough to provide enough support while also allowing for drainage. You can also buy commercial propagation mediums at your local gardening center that have similar properties. However, evaluate the components of the medium carefully. Many commercial potting mediums are too heavy to propagate philodendron.[9]
- If you want to give your philodendron a boost, you might try adding rooting hormone, which you can find at your local gardening center. However, philodendron typically root just fine without it.[10]
- Fill a nursery tray or similar-sized container with propagation medium. Propagate each cutting in a separate container. Add the propagation medium loosely, ensuring that air and water can easily pass through it. Leave about of space between the top of your medium and the rim of the container so you can move the medium around when you introduce your cutting.[11]
- Use a container with drainage holes. You can place a piece of mesh, a paper towel, or a coffee filter over the drainage holes to prevent soil from escaping. The container will still drain excess water properly.
- Moisten the propagation medium thoroughly with tap water. Add the water gradually to layers of your propagation medium, working it through the medium with your hands. Make sure the entire propagation medium is thoroughly moistened.[12]
- The medium should be damp to the touch but not so wet that you can squeeze water out of it. Make sure it's consistently moist without any dry spots.
- Insert the cutting deeply into the medium. Center the cutting in your tray and insert it into your propagation medium until the node is completely covered. Move your medium around the cutting to help stabilize it so it won't fall over in the tray. If you've made a leaf-bud cutting, ensure that only the leaf is visible above the surface of the propagation medium.[13]
- Add more medium as necessary to stabilize the stem if you have a longer cutting. Your cutting should be able to stand up straight in the tray.
- Cover the propagation trays with plastic to maintain humidity. Before your cuttings root, they have no way of replacing the moisture they lose. Keeping plastic over the propagation trays helps hold in the moisture.[14]
- Poke holes in the plastic so air can continue to flow through it.
- If you used individual containers instead of nursery trays, you can cover them with plastic sheeting or even an old plastic grocery bag. Make sure air can flow through the plastic.
- Set your cuttings in indirect sunlight with a day temperature of at least . Philodendron make good houseplants because they tolerate temperatures similar to the normal household environment. However, when you're propagating cuttings, make sure the temperature is slightly warmer. A temperature of around is ideal.[15]
- Direct sunlight can burn the leaves and impede rooting. Make sure your cuttings are protected from direct sunlight while they're rooting.
- Tug on your cuttings after 4 weeks to check for rooting. In the spring and summer, philodendron typically root in about 4 weeks. Grasp the plant close to the soil line and give it a short, gentle tug. If you feel resistance, that means your cuttings have started to grow roots.[16]
- Generally, you want roots that are long and have started to form into a ball. If you start propagating in spring, your new philodendron should be ready to transplant in 4 to 6 weeks.
- New plant growth above soil level is a clear indication that your cuttings have rooted.
[Edit]Transplanting Your Philodendron - Choose a planter larger than the root ball. Generally, philodendron plants grow best in a slightly cramped potting environment. If you already have a mature philodendron, you'll have a good idea of how big the planter should be.[17]
- Use a pot with drainage holes to ensure that your potting medium drains properly. Philodendron plants need moist, well-drained soil.
- Water your philodendron the day before transplanting it. Check the dampness of the propagation medium. If it feels dry to the touch, add water to dampen the medium, but be careful not to water your philodendron too much.[18]
- Watering your philodendron the day before you transplant it will reduce the stress on the plant and help make the transition easier.
- Moisten your potting medium with tap water. A lightweight potting medium ensures your philodendron doesn't become water-logged. Moisten the potting medium slowly, turning it over in your hands or with a trowel to ensure it's all evenly damp. It should be moist enough to stick together, but not so moist that you can squeeze water out of it.[19]
- Any quality potting soil works for philodendron as long as it drains well. You can also mix in Perlite or peat moss.[20]
- Fill the planter with potting medium up to from the rim. The actual depth of your soil will depend on the size of your planter. However, the root ball of your philodendron should be about below the rim of the planter. This ensures that the plant will grow at the correct level over the planter.[21]
- Don't tamp the potting medium down or press it into the pot. There needs to be enough space in the soil for air and water to get through.
- Pull your philodendron gently out of the propagation medium. Grasp your philodendron at the base of the stem just above the surface of the propagation medium. Work it from side to side to free the roots and pull the entire plant out.[22]
- Once your philodendron is out of the propagation medium, open up and gently separate the roots in the root ball. This will encourage new growth when your philodendron is replanted.
- Place your philodendron's root ball on top of the potting medium. Set your philodendron gently on top of the potting medium you've put in the bottom of the planter. Be careful not to push it down into the potting medium or crush the roots.[23]
- Gently twist the philodendron so that it will sit up straight in the planter and grow in the direction you want it to. If your philodendron is too top-heavy, you might want to hold onto it with one hand until you've filled the container.
- Fill the rest of the container with potting medium. Start to place small amounts of pre-moistened potting medium on top of and around the roots of your philodendron. Take care to fill in any open spaces between the roots.[24]
- Gently press each layer of potting medium into the roots to ensure there's good contact between the roots and the soil.
- Continue to fill your planter just up to the top, gently pressing down the potting medium in layers as you go.
[Edit]Warnings - Before you try to grow a philodendron from cuttings, find out what variety of philodendron it is. Self-heading philodendron (including the "Black Cardinal," "Imperial Green," and "Moonlight" philodendron) cannot be propagated from cuttings and must be grown from seed.[25]
- Philodendron are toxic to animals. If you have pets, keep your plants in a place where they can't get to the plant or its leaves.[26]
- While philodendron can root in water alone, this method of propagation is not recommended by horticulturists. When you root the plant in water, the delicate roots are often difficult to transplant in soil.[27]
[Edit]Things You'll Need - Sharp, clean knife or pruners
- Nursery trays or small pots
- Propagation medium (peat moss, Perlite, vermiculite)
- Rooting hormone (optional)
- Planters
- Potting medium
[Edit]References |
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